Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
Hi Robert, Do you recommend any good chemical or UV resistant resins? I have a small run production I would like to try this with but the finished plastic/resin parts needs to be chemical and UV resistant. Many thanks.
Just a side note for people who like to know things. Injection molded plastic is pushed into the mold around 700 psi. The mold clamp only needs to be enough to keep the mold together. Basically about 700 pounds for every square inch of surface area of your part plus 5 or 10 percent in case of any pressure deviation in the process.
I have made tons of two part molds, watched tons of videos on how to do it from many who claim to be casting professionals. None have ever come remotely close to the quality of this two part video. Well done, my hats off to you.
I've been casting for a couple decades and you are 100% correct about injection. I have worked on castings that have to be injected, because they are aerospace parts and need to be done through a mixing tip for a certain time, etc. to meet spec. These parts always have more bubbles, despite the fact the resin is guaranteed to be free of air due to coming from a cartridge. The reason for this is injection fills the mold too quickly. Air gets trapped in corners and against walls as the resin flows over it without having time to wet it out. To counter this we would overfill molds until resin squirted out of the vents. The logic was it would wash the bubbles out with the resin flow. It works, but not that well, and the resin we used was about 300 bucks a liter. The ONLY reason for this is repeatability and standardization, at least in aerospace That is more valuable than a hundred bucks of resin waste. There was also the advantage you could use a resin with a 30 second pot life and a 5 minute demold, but we had no need for that level of speed and generally ran a 3 minute pot life resin. In short, pour your resin. Don't inject it. Thanks for the channel. I"m learning a lot despite being an old hand at this.
I've been watching tutorial videos for years - about to start mold casting for resin projects (a new hobby of ours), so I'm only just running into your videos popping up.. I gotta say I'm impressed. Your "goofy old man" vibe is killing it, so perfect. (I don't even subscribe to many channels tbh, mainly just let TH-cam do its thing. So after only 4-5 videos, it's a quick sub from me. Youve earned it - especially after this one.)
Thank you for educating everyone about how the material flows into the mold without force! Long ago, I use to create 3D mold designs for plastic mold injection for large manufacturers. Everything you said is spot on.
Dear Robert. Like so many happy accidents I came by you channel by chance looking to cast an acrylic case for my granddaughter’s boom box. Several hours later and now silly o’clock I was caught up in your charming presentation style, insight and profound knowledge thank you. I really did understand when to use release agent and when not to..
You Sir are a rare breed on youtube! a mature American that knows what he is on about. You’re a delight to listen too thanks very much for a great informative video.
I’ve made two part molds for complex shapes where a single mold just won’t do. I’m happy to say that I must be doing something right because you did everything I would do. Thanks!
When you explain pouring resin in, I take it as the same principal as air being pushed out of a cylinder in an engine. The exhaust valve is the vent, the intake is the pour. The piston is the resin pushing up on the air.
I just can't thank you enough for sharing your work, I love seeing this stuff, the bizarre and interesting things these molds produce is just wonderful. I love what artists come up with, and mold making is a big part of making their art shine. Thank you so much for sharing this process with us.
You are a wonderful teacher. I need to go back and start watching all your videos from early to later. When I get to casting, I want to know what I'm doing. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Robert, I started resin casting about 5 years ago, and mold making and casting was hit or miss. Almost all my molds are two part molds since I am casting miniature buildings, and to save on resin we are casting them hollow. Up until I watch this video series, I was gluing the master to the base of my mold box and then hot gluing the outside edge of my mold case. I use legos to make my mold case. Clamping the mold box to the bottom plate is brilliant. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
This is by far THE best and most professional two-part video to cover this critical subject I have ever seen on youtube. and believe me when I say that I have watched thousands if not tens of thousands of them so far. hats off! Sir, I really really really can't thank you enough for caring to share your brilliant ideas, unique approach, and your unparalleled experience with us :)
Watched both parts. Great job. Ya got my sub. The info is going to help me on my next pour. My silicon is a bit firmer. I am trying to cast the plastic interior of Hot Wheels cars with lead to add weight. I have had success but now I see I need a better set-up as to not deform the rubber. Thanks so much. It was nice watching. A little long, but very informative.
Great info, I decided to have a crack at molding some stuff. Then thought i better have a little look around on here before just going for it with no experience. This is really helpful. Good video, thank you
Glad to see you are back in the shop. I hope everyone is well in your family. I’m so happy the part came out perfectly! You are the man. Email me with the details of the transaction. Jeff
I was home for 3 days; just long enough to cast your base and do the video. It was a great project. It looked so simple but it had a number of challenges to deal with. Like a dummy I left your project in the studio and it will be a couple weeks before I get back there. The material bill will be quite minimal because the base was small. I’ll let you know and get everything back to you as soon as I can. Thanks so much for your patience Jeff, I really appreciate you sending me this project.
Another great video Robert, love all the insider tips and tricks. I was surprised to see how straight and flat that part turned out, I would not have thought that possible with "floppy" silicone mold.
Lol - love how you tell it how it is! “If you think there is a difference... you are wrong.....” I am not sure why but that still has me laughing. Have a good one!
I’m glad you think it’s funny. Most people use words like obnoxious, opinionated, overbearing, etc! I should have added, “prove me wrong - change my mind” because I really do enjoy learning new tricks.
Excellent as always. I like the 45 degree angle idea. I’m going to try that on my rubber tire mold to see if that helps. I have a vacuum chamber, however, I see a pressure pot in my future.
Incredible information, you are a natural teacher. Thanks for this video, part 1 too. btw, I'll need to look up if you've got a video on that "tank" .. i.e. pressure tank. Maybe that isn't super ultra necessary for a beginner but maybe later down the road.
For 3 precious days I was home to gather tools and bring them here. I’m setting up a temporary shop in a friend’s garage. Will luck I’ll be fully up and running in a couple weeks.
Would you kindly get a final series of still shots showing the casting from all angles, all in perfect focus, and showing both the top and the bottom, so we can marvel over your amazing work. I felt a little unsatisfied at the end because we never had clean images of the results. Thank you, and love your videos.
I know this was a year ago but I would like to suggest that maybe you get a small run out table and learn to finish pushing your pieces you're cutting on your table saw all the way through. I noticed that in some cases you hesitate as you're pushing for a split second. It really is just enough time for the blade to grab the part and kick back. Unfortunately, I am speaking from experience. I would just hate for something bad to happen. Somewhat of a new viewer and big fan of the channel. This is definitely a very light suggestion :)
A fascinating pair of videos Robert, thank you mate! Brilliant result! I have lost a couple of little polystyrene parts to 1/16th & 1/35th scale German WWII tank models I'm building! D'oh! One part is about a half inch long & the other is about 3/4 of an inch long, both with surface details & a single axis of symmetry. The 3/4" part is a suspension swing-arm from a king tiger tank & the other is a tow-rope hold-down from the front of a panzer 1B. Would your method work for me to make moulds to cast replacement parts for these tanks? If not, would you know where I could find a suitable method? Cheers!
there are times when only injection method will work, particularly with very small moulds such as- bottle tops key ring items etc s pressure is reqd to literally pump the mould solution around the mould walls to ensure no areas are not filled, but for an amateur its best to avoid syringe methods & simply increase the scale of the item some items require tiny parts that are not filled with one pour, machine individual parts on say a robot character for example or smaller areas come out warped in shape have air bubble problems. i cant imagine how a wafer thin toy car body just a skin gets cast but it does
You gave me a scare at 7:13 when the table saw gave the workpiece you were holding a bit of kickback. I'm guessing you're not using a riving knife because the factory one is too wide for the blade you currently have installed.
I wondered if this may be a solution for me. In the event I have a piece to mold with a perfectly flat back and 90º edges all around, I thought I could simply do a flat back mold. Of course all the edges come out perfectly in that scenario, except the flat back...the part where the casting is filled to in the mold. Is there any way to get a sharper fill edge of my casting when filling a flat back mold or would I need to do a two part mold if I want to preserve the backside edge ?
Question: Is there any difference or is it just preference pouring the mold with the sprue at the top of the mold or filling from the bottom of it? Thank you for the video.
Quote of the video for this week: "... a funky, dunky, warpy box..." LOL!!! Love it! You have the greatest sayings, Robert! QUESTION: Do you find that the good ol' razor blade and/or Exacto Knife are plenty quick and offer you better control when cleaning-up a casting, then say, a hand-held, powered Dremel Tool? Thanks again for making Friday's so wonderfully special!
After I burned out my 3rd Dremel I gave up on them. They must require a lighter touch! For small sculptures I pretty much just use a blade. On a large sculpture I will break out the power tools to clean the castings.
I'm really curious if there's a good way to reproduce a 2 part mold reliably without remaking the whole thing from scratch. Would making a really nice first mold and then just making more molds for the individual pieces work, or would that introduce too much room for error and/or flashing around the edges, particularly after multiple castings? Thanks! Your videos are awesome btw :D
I see that this video is 4 years old, but I have a question for you. Assuming the mold and form were small enough to fit in the tank, could/would you have simply used your form to hold the mold (cutting for the pour gate as you did)? That way there would be no distortion, right?
Dear Sir, It would be great if you could tell up to what extent degradation is possible if pressurized chamber is not used at the end after pouring resin in to the mold. Thanks
Hey Robert! Awesome 2 part 2 part mold video :D I was curious to why you didn't use your molding box you made as the base shape of the cradle. Do you think this could have been a bit easier if you used that original wooden box to start?
Because a mold case and a cradle have 2 very different functions. It’s almost always easier to make them as separate pieces than it is to try to modify the mold case into a cradle after the fact.
Would it be useful to inject the resin from the bottom of the mold? It makes sense to me rather than pouring through the cavity from the top for it to flow down. It would be another piece of equipment to handle but you wouldnt need to carve a wax spout, just a hole for an injection port to fit in. Just found your channel. Really loving the insight. I'm thinking about using your silicone techniques to make molds for concrete pots and other accessories.
Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos:
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
Hi Robert,
Do you recommend any good chemical or UV resistant resins?
I have a small run production I would like to try this with but the finished plastic/resin parts needs to be chemical and UV resistant.
Many thanks.
This guy is like the Bob Ross of resin casting
I just posted that on last video. Funny!
@@tomo4635 To me he's a bit of Bob Ross, and a bit of AvE.
@@dimman77 a good combo.
nah thats the crafsman, he is the bob ross of resin
i think cap'n mike is closer to Bob...
Just a side note for people who like to know things. Injection molded plastic is pushed into the mold around 700 psi. The mold clamp only needs to be enough to keep the mold together. Basically about 700 pounds for every square inch of surface area of your part plus 5 or 10 percent in case of any pressure deviation in the process.
I have made tons of two part molds, watched tons of videos on how to do it from many who claim to be casting professionals. None have ever come remotely close to the quality of this two part video. Well done, my hats off to you.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Aww that scale made me so nostalgic for high school, I completely forgot we used those. We had electron microscopes and old school scales lol
I've been casting for a couple decades and you are 100% correct about injection. I have worked on castings that have to be injected, because they are aerospace parts and need to be done through a mixing tip for a certain time, etc. to meet spec. These parts always have more bubbles, despite the fact the resin is guaranteed to be free of air due to coming from a cartridge. The reason for this is injection fills the mold too quickly. Air gets trapped in corners and against walls as the resin flows over it without having time to wet it out. To counter this we would overfill molds until resin squirted out of the vents. The logic was it would wash the bubbles out with the resin flow. It works, but not that well, and the resin we used was about 300 bucks a liter. The ONLY reason for this is repeatability and standardization, at least in aerospace That is more valuable than a hundred bucks of resin waste. There was also the advantage you could use a resin with a 30 second pot life and a 5 minute demold, but we had no need for that level of speed and generally ran a 3 minute pot life resin.
In short, pour your resin. Don't inject it.
Thanks for the channel. I"m learning a lot despite being an old hand at this.
I've been watching tutorial videos for years - about to start mold casting for resin projects (a new hobby of ours), so I'm only just running into your videos popping up.. I gotta say I'm impressed. Your "goofy old man" vibe is killing it, so perfect.
(I don't even subscribe to many channels tbh, mainly just let TH-cam do its thing. So after only 4-5 videos, it's a quick sub from me. Youve earned it - especially after this one.)
Thank you for educating everyone about how the material flows into the mold without force! Long ago, I use to create 3D mold designs for plastic mold injection for large manufacturers. Everything you said is spot on.
Dear Robert. Like so many happy accidents I came by you channel by chance looking to cast an acrylic case for my granddaughter’s boom box. Several hours later and now silly o’clock I was caught up in your charming presentation style, insight and profound knowledge thank you. I really did understand when to use release agent and when not to..
Glad you found my channel!
Robert Tolone, the best thing I have discovered during lockdown, thank you.
Thanks so much for your nice comment Valerie.
I love this channel
Thanks for watching Robert!
You Sir are a rare breed on youtube! a mature American that knows what he is on about. You’re a delight to listen too thanks very much for a great informative video.
Thanks! i appreciate you for watching and for your nice comment.
On par, excellent quality craftsmanship, "no-bull" advice, and signature humor. Love it!!!
Thanks Ricky!
Grand master at work. Skill and technical knowledge is shockingly galaxies apart. He deserves a Nobel prize
love to see some more two-piece molds in the future. learned a lot from this one
Pretty sure there will be more 2-piece molds in the future!
I’ve made two part molds for complex shapes where a single mold just won’t do. I’m happy to say that I must be doing something right because you did everything I would do. Thanks!
in 3 of your videos, I have learned more than in years of watching videos and searching the internet for information.
I’m so happy you find them helpful!
Good to see you back amongst the pressure pots you look right at home now .
For 3 happy days I was back in my shop. A friend has offered me garage space as a temporary shop so I’m getting set up here.
@@RobertTolone sorry to hear it's taking you a lot longer with things happening away . Will wait till next week to see the new set up . Stay safe .
When you explain pouring resin in, I take it as the same principal as air being pushed out of a cylinder in an engine. The exhaust valve is the vent, the intake is the pour. The piston is the resin pushing up on the air.
I just can't thank you enough for sharing your work, I love seeing this stuff, the bizarre and interesting things these molds produce is just wonderful. I love what artists come up with, and mold making is a big part of making their art shine. Thank you so much for sharing this process with us.
You are a wonderful teacher. I need to go back and start watching all your videos from early to later. When I get to casting, I want to know what I'm doing. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching and for your nice comment!
Robert, I started resin casting about 5 years ago, and mold making and casting was hit or miss. Almost all my molds are two part molds since I am casting miniature buildings, and to save on resin we are casting them hollow. Up until I watch this video series, I was gluing the master to the base of my mold box and then hot gluing the outside edge of my mold case. I use legos to make my mold case. Clamping the mold box to the bottom plate is brilliant. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
Thanks Paul! I’m happy you found my video helpful.
im glad to find someone else who wacks their scales with sticks because yes, it does help weigh out things better. Don't ask us why! it is science.
This is by far THE best and most professional two-part video to cover this critical subject I have ever seen on youtube. and believe me when I say that I have watched thousands if not tens of thousands of them so far. hats off!
Sir, I really really really can't thank you enough for caring to share your brilliant ideas, unique approach, and your unparalleled experience with us :)
Thank you Basem for your very kind comments. I’m delighted you found my videos helpful.
Watched both parts. Great job. Ya got my sub. The info is going to help me on my next pour.
My silicon is a bit firmer. I am trying to cast the plastic interior of Hot Wheels cars with lead to add weight.
I have had success but now I see I need a better set-up as to not deform the rubber.
Thanks so much. It was nice watching. A little long, but very informative.
Thankyou for taking the time to share your hard-won experience with the world!
Well i thought you were experimenting and turns out you are experienced expert in these matters. Awesome
I love this guy xD
One of my favorite youtubers!
Excellent job. As one mold maker to another, there's nothing more satisfying than completion of a good project.
Great info, I decided to have a crack at molding some stuff. Then thought i better have a little look around on here before just going for it with no experience. This is really helpful. Good video, thank you
Wish everyone stay safe. I do sculpture in Vietnam 🇻🇳 😍😍😍😍
Thanks for your videos. I learned very much how to make my silicone and resin projects.
The most informative and entertaining info on this subject ever! Thank you
Thanks for the nice comment Claude!
@@RobertTolone check fb, sent you a pm
Robert you deserve to have a million subscribers with millions of views
Yes I do! 🙏🙏😄
Great channel, loads of advice in a paced, well explained manner. You are a great teacher.
I appreciate your nice comment Steve. Thanks for watching!
Glad to see you are back in the shop. I hope everyone is well in your family. I’m so happy the part came out perfectly! You are the man. Email me with the details of the transaction.
Jeff
I was home for 3 days; just long enough to cast your base and do the video. It was a great project. It looked so simple but it had a number of challenges to deal with. Like a dummy I left your project in the studio and it will be a couple weeks before I get back there. The material bill will be quite minimal because the base was small. I’ll let you know and get everything back to you as soon as I can. Thanks so much for your patience Jeff, I really appreciate you sending me this project.
You are awesome Sir! fun to watch, smart and informational. I love how you offer advice and points of view.
A true master of mold making.
Thanks Genie!
Another great video Robert, love all the insider tips and tricks. I was surprised to see how straight and flat that part turned out, I would not have thought that possible with "floppy" silicone mold.
It really came out nice. It was a heavy, thick mold in a cradle so it had a good chance of making clean castings.
I love the old school logic approach..great info.
Try to keep it simple, right Paul?
except maybe for the silicone "rubber" label. Makes me think of grandma who still "tapes" her shows. lol. Good channel.
Lol - love how you tell it how it is! “If you think there is a difference... you are wrong.....” I am not sure why but that still has me laughing. Have a good one!
I’m glad you think it’s funny. Most people use words like obnoxious, opinionated, overbearing, etc! I should have added, “prove me wrong - change my mind” because I really do enjoy learning new tricks.
That was amazing! Can't wait to watch more of your videos, I am going to try to save some for tomorrow lol.
Glad you enjoyed it Ian. Thanks for watching!
He always has the vibe I love
Fun trivia: that lipped edge on the cast rubber is the meniscus, just like when water has a meniscus in a container.
Excellent as always. I like the 45 degree angle idea. I’m going to try that on my rubber tire mold to see if that helps. I have a vacuum chamber, however, I see a pressure pot in my future.
I love my pressure pots.
Robert, I absolutely love your channel! Thank you so much for sharing your experience! So much to learn...
Glad you enjoy it! I appreciate your comment!
I have watched a few of your videos and love them. I will be watching more of them. love your personality and your instructions are awesome.
Thanks for watching!
I agree with your assessment of injection vs pour casting. Love your videos!
It was a pleasure to see this project getting finished. ^^ Thanks, Robert.
Thanks Roger!
love the lackey grooves, fool proof.
Unbelievable... So perfect a casting... Amazing... Congratulations...
Incredible information, you are a natural teacher. Thanks for this video, part 1 too. btw, I'll need to look up if you've got a video on that "tank" .. i.e. pressure tank. Maybe that isn't super ultra necessary for a beginner but maybe later down the road.
pressure pot videos:
th-cam.com/video/Aro-CkdI6O0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/lnSh7lMzAv8/w-d-xo.html
Great job, and good to see you back in the workshop.
For 3 precious days I was home to gather tools and bring them here. I’m setting up a temporary shop in a friend’s garage. Will luck I’ll be fully up and running in a couple weeks.
Just starting to get interested in making molds & casting and this video was incredibly helpful in understanding the entire process. Very well done.
Glad you found it helpful Bruce!
Your videos are so informative. Wondering how I would go about creating a mold for a custom card deck case.
Impressive! Thank you for sharing your knowledge 😊
The long awaited video!!!
I was so looking forward to casting in that mold! It really came out super nice.
I live in the south blocking atmospheric moisture is inevitable, but I like your trick. I will certainly try it next time.
It’s not perfect, but it helps. I live near the ocean so our humidity is very high too.
Brilliant!
New to your channel and you already helped my molds get a little better!
Sir, you are adorable. Thank you for your content!
Love watching your videos
Glad you like them Korey!
Great advice thanks!
Wow what a craftsman impressed of England
Thanks Rowan!
Thank you for these videos, you explain things very well!
Would you kindly get a final series of still shots showing the casting from all angles, all in perfect focus, and showing both the top and the bottom, so we can marvel over your amazing work. I felt a little unsatisfied at the end because we never had clean images of the results. Thank you, and love your videos.
Great idea, I will do that from now on!
That's a great job!
It was a great lesson for me!
Thank you~!
I know this was a year ago but I would like to suggest that maybe you get a small run out table and learn to finish pushing your pieces you're cutting on your table saw all the way through. I noticed that in some cases you hesitate as you're pushing for a split second. It really is just enough time for the blade to grab the part and kick back. Unfortunately, I am speaking from experience. I would just hate for something bad to happen. Somewhat of a new viewer and big fan of the channel. This is definitely a very light suggestion :)
Fantastic. I am glad I found your channel. I had to subscribe. Looking forward to many more projects.
I'm glad you found my channel!
A fascinating pair of videos Robert, thank you mate! Brilliant result!
I have lost a couple of little polystyrene parts to 1/16th & 1/35th scale German WWII tank models I'm building! D'oh!
One part is about a half inch long & the other is about 3/4 of an inch long, both with surface details & a single axis of symmetry.
The 3/4" part is a suspension swing-arm from a king tiger tank & the other is a tow-rope hold-down from the front of a panzer 1B.
Would your method work for me to make moulds to cast replacement parts for these tanks?
If not, would you know where I could find a suitable method? Cheers!
very nice job
there are times when only injection method will work, particularly with very small moulds such as- bottle tops key ring items etc s pressure is reqd to literally pump the mould solution around the mould walls to ensure no areas are not filled, but for an amateur its best to avoid syringe methods & simply increase the scale of the item some items require tiny parts that are not filled with one pour, machine individual parts on say a robot character for example or smaller areas come out warped in shape have air bubble problems. i cant imagine how a wafer thin toy car body just a skin gets cast but it does
Fact!!
You Sir, are a joy. Great video as always.
I appreciate that you watch my videos. Thanks for the very nice comment!
You rock bro. Love it.
I am JUST starting to learn about making molds. Can I successfully apply your techniques to using ABS plastic?
Real perfectionist.
perfection is a strange thing. It’s a total illusion, but it has the power either to drive you forward or stop you in your tracks.
You gave me a scare at 7:13 when the table saw gave the workpiece you were holding a bit of kickback. I'm guessing you're not using a riving knife because the factory one is too wide for the blade you currently have installed.
I wondered if this may be a solution for me. In the event I have a piece to mold with a perfectly flat back and 90º edges all around, I thought I could simply do a flat back mold. Of course all the edges come out perfectly in that scenario, except the flat back...the part where the casting is filled to in the mold. Is there any way to get a sharper fill edge of my casting when filling a flat back mold or would I need to do a two part mold if I want to preserve the backside edge ?
Perfect 👍
Mr. Mold you have to do that wood work for every mold..?
cool ..this is a fun channel. Thanks.. lovin'the vids
Thanks Alexander!
this is genius!
Would love to see a three or a four part mold for allowing a bolt to pass through a part with different sized inlets on either side.
If you have a specific design for a part in mind send me a pic roberttolone@yahoo.com
Question: Is there any difference or is it just preference pouring the mold with the sprue at the top of the mold or filling from the bottom of it? Thank you for the video.
Great job and info thanks
Maybe this question has been asked before, but... What about "vacuuming" the air from the vent, overfilling the inlet with resin?
Quote of the video for this week: "... a funky, dunky, warpy box..." LOL!!! Love it! You have the greatest sayings, Robert! QUESTION: Do you find that the good ol' razor blade and/or Exacto Knife are plenty quick and offer you better control when cleaning-up a casting, then say, a hand-held, powered Dremel Tool? Thanks again for making Friday's so wonderfully special!
After I burned out my 3rd Dremel I gave up on them. They must require a lighter touch! For small sculptures I pretty much just use a blade. On a large sculpture I will break out the power tools to clean the castings.
@@RobertTolone - Thanks!
REALLY making me nervous the way you're casually holding your hands that close to a still-engaged tablesaw.
+ kickback alert!
Me to !!!
I'm really curious if there's a good way to reproduce a 2 part mold reliably without remaking the whole thing from scratch. Would making a really nice first mold and then just making more molds for the individual pieces work, or would that introduce too much room for error and/or flashing around the edges, particularly after multiple castings? Thanks! Your videos are awesome btw :D
you're a goddamn genius man, thanks for sharing!
6:24 Ah, a Unisaw and Beisemeier fence?
Cheap import saw and Biesemeyer fence.
I see that this video is 4 years old, but I have a question for you. Assuming the mold and form were small enough to fit in the tank, could/would you have simply used your form to hold the mold (cutting for the pour gate as you did)? That way there would be no distortion, right?
I have been wanting to make 2 part molds, to pour resin 1/25 scale model car bodies. Anyway you could do a video on that?
perfect,- once again,- great fun to watch
Thanks Wolli!
Dear Sir, It would be great if you could tell up to what extent degradation is possible if pressurized chamber is not used at the end after pouring resin in to the mold. Thanks
Maestro, that's who you are.
Hey Robert! Awesome 2 part 2 part mold video :D I was curious to why you didn't use your molding box you made as the base shape of the cradle. Do you think this could have been a bit easier if you used that original wooden box to start?
Because a mold case and a cradle have 2 very different functions. It’s almost always easier to make them as separate pieces than it is to try to modify the mold case into a cradle after the fact.
Hello, please, what's the Shore of this silicone?
Great job! I can’t stop wondering what’s the part is? For some reason it looks familiar. 🤷🏼♀️
It’s a base for one of his sculptures.
Would it be useful to inject the resin from the bottom of the mold? It makes sense to me rather than pouring through the cavity from the top for it to flow down. It would be another piece of equipment to handle but you wouldnt need to carve a wax spout, just a hole for an injection port to fit in. Just found your channel. Really loving the insight. I'm thinking about using your silicone techniques to make molds for concrete pots and other accessories.