Ive been searching for advice on my BMW 745LI for over a year. My local BMW dealer wants 4000 bucks to start work on my transmission. I love my BMW autos have been part of my career for 45 years. I’m not a wealthy person, retired living on fixed income ( love Retirement) but I can’t afford to pay that price. So I’ve watched hundreds of videos so I can along with my career knowledge try and do at least a good portion of the work myself. Your transmission video was the best thing sense bubblegum. Great video pointed out exactly what I needed to get started on the BMW that has been sitting for almost a year not being driven. But I love so much that I want sale or trade it. I have hope in being able to tool around in my BMW for good deal of remaining time. THANK YOU you’ve got a new fan of your show
Thanks for this! I have a E60 550i with the SAT and an aftermarket ESS supercharger that I installed six years ago, and the only gripe I have about the car is the downshift from 2 to 1 at a stop- the car literally JUMPS forward and it tends to scare the crap out of anybody in it (especially when rolling up behind another vehicle). The car has 83,000 miles on it now and I was just about to flush the fluid anyway. It's good to know that it's just a seal and not a more serious issue. You rock! Subscribed!!!
@@mariabutler3356 : sorry for the late reply... YES. The problem got quite a bit worse, and I ended up having problems shifting in every gear and getting slippage in the lower gears. I thought the transmission was toast, but replacing all the sleeves and seals cleaned everything up and it drives perfectly again. Aside from brakes, this was the first major issue I've had with the E60 and I am happy that it was so easy to fix. My E46 M3, however........
ZF6 are really good transmissions if maintained well. Penrite have a very cheap alternative to the Lifeguard 6, called Penrite ATF BMV fully synthetic. I own 4 cars all with ZF6HP26 transmissions, after full service (all seals, valve body clean, etc) oil and filter they have all performed excellent with this new OEM replacement fluid, at a fraction of the cost.
I have just finished repairing thid exact fault Dead solonoid replaced the sleeve seals all working again If your confident with diy put sonnax kit through it the accumulater piston dampers flatter out inside the valve body and the sonnax kits fix alot of issues with in the valve body Gresat vid by the way your rite alot people can not diagnose transmission faults
Excellent video mate, I have finally solved the problem with my BMW E60, the range sensor was at fault and your video helped me a lot to diagnose the fault. Keep up the great work! Cheers!
N.C. resident here, triad area 📍 Thanks for your knowledge, I changed out mines and perfected it. I’ve changed the sleeves on 2 other e90’s for a reasonably lower prices 💪🏽 safe to say I’ve been making money 🥳🥳 thanks sinsei 🤲🏾
Thank you so much, had a transmission shop look at it and they were going to change the whole mechatronic unit. I have the confidence to do the solenoid change myself after your awesome videos.
@@ShopLifeTV the problem? I did all of tranny pan- sleeves, seals on my 335i at 130k (which was the original) - fixed the sleeve leak and Bamo- new car feel- I bought an n62 550i with 173k. Did the same thing- but not the solenoids! Still crappy shifting- back under we go! Yo- can I reset the tranny after I’m done with Carly or do I need ista? (Again- great content- second time watching this!
@Dustin´s Fish Tanks I would like to know what were the symptoms you suffered before changing the sleeves. I suffer from small jerks between first and third, and the reductions are somewhat abrupt too. Do you think those pulls will be fixed by changing all the sleeves and connectors? The oil in the box is recently changed. Thank you very much and congratulations for having been decisive in your car.
@@ShopLifeTVI have this 2nd to 1st jerk. Just starting to drive the car you don’t feel it. Later as your drive yes. It could be only low oil? Why it doesn’t feel all the time? Thanks!
Thank you! Great video shows your knowledge and experience. You saved me over $12k on a transmission per BMW. Changed out the mechatronic unit with sleeve, plug adapter per you video. Then had Bimmerhaus program mechatronic unit with IMPA
This is my weakness part when doing diagnostics. I diag for shops in my area and when a transmission issue comes in they right away send it to a transmission shop. So the very few I diagnose takes forever because of the research. Transmission are a different animal.
I have a 2006 BMW 530 is with the SMG transmission.... The vehicle was bought second hand... and now has 200,000 kms.... In October 2021... I had a transmission problem.... While in automatic and stuck in traffic at 5 km an hour the car went into neutral and would not...move.... It was told and eventually repaired at a transmission shop after 2 months replacing the actuator with a rebuilt unit from SMG society in Germany.... The car ran superbly for 45 days...about 400 kms.. We had a massive snow storm in Montreal and the temperature then dropped to minus 25 degrees Celsius... The car was stationary for about 3 days
Penrite are doing a OEM direct replacement fluid for Lifeguard6 ATF its called Penrite ATF BMV full synthetic and it can be used in ZF transmissions. It costs a fraction of Lifeguard, around $10/litre saving heaps of money.
Great video. I wished I would have watched this a long time ago but luckily for me I was having that clunk between first and 2nd and one time it was a hard jolt. I took it to the shop in Solana Beach, California called Hugo's European Auto repair. They did the transmission service, replaced the sleeves you mentioned and got me back on the road. Luckily I didn't do any other damage and oddly enough BMW calls it lifetime fluid transmission and I preach to everybody who I'm in chat rooms with and I tell them replace it at every 60,000 mi regardless what BMW says it is not lifetime transmission fluid...😅
This is the same transmission for the Land Rover Range Rover HSE. Thanks man great video!! On that square Megatronic sleeve do you need to reset anything if replacing that since it came with the kit?
I have really enjoyed your videos and very detailed explaining. You are extremely knowledgeable. I am looking to you for help after spending way too much money on failed diagnostics. I have a 2006 525i with Transmission Fault. I replaced fluids, transmission pan/filter, and all the gaskets between the valve body and transmission. I have codes: CD99 CD9E CD9D CDB0 D358 A3AA A0B1 Any ideas?
Thanks so much for the info!! You just described EXACTLY what my 2005 530i e60 I just bought is doing! Thud when stopping from 2 to 1 like someone lightly rear ended the car! Also, it shifts ok if I drive quite softly but if I give it 3/4 throttle through all the gears it seems to get to maybe 3 to 4 or 4 t 5 (Im not sure, and it suddenly doesn't know if it should shift up or kick down and revs highly and throws the 'transmission malfunction!" error and light plus it goes into safe mode (1 gear only) until I turn motor off and let it sit and reset for 20 minutes or so.. Im hoping it's all to do with the mechatronics sleeve! - the previous owner just spend $4000aud getting it all 'fixed' it by way of replacing solenoid 2 for $200aud and a 'transmission service' kit which sounds like gaskets perhaps for $420 AUD - which basically did noting by the looks of it when they should have put a new mechatronics sleeve in instead!
Man great video. 04 E60 525i, only 100k miles started slipping and going in to limp mode. Had input shaft output shaft rpm mismatch errors. Found a high end indy shop that said the clutches are toast. I guess it's not just solenoids then eh?
YOUR THE MAN BRO I THOUGHT MY 2009 535xi trans was a goner , going. To need to get this job done again hopefully it fixes it for the 2nd time thought the first time It did it was the sleeves and stuff the car was stick on park “P”
First off thanks! You are one knowledgeable mechanic. I’m daughter bought her first car, a 2006 BMW 325i on the way home it jerked when her boyfriend tried using the sport shift. It was Erving but not shifting in to gear 3rd or fourth. They pulled over and parked it when they started it they put it in drive but it doesn’t move it only revs. It goes into Neutral and park and reverse though. Make a hard clunk when shifting. I towed it home And dropped the pan. Oil was really black. Have you dealt with this or anyone else in the comments? I ordered a new pan filter and now I’m thinking just changing all the sleeves and solenoids.
How ended up? I have jerky upshifts on sport (DS) with low trottle, but in high trottle nothing, yesterday I saw that the trans pan is leaking, but aside low trottle on sport or manual works fine. Have the car since tuesday
I did all that replacing sleeves and solenoids it didn’t fix the problem. I decided to replaced the valve body with a new one but still jerking on the second gear.Now I’m replacing the whole transmission and hope this will work before I lose my mind.
Great video! I will be doing the preventative maintenance on my ZF transmission. I bought a 08 3.0si e85 a few months ago. I know the owner before the guy I got it from did a bunch of stuff but not sure on the transmission. The guy I got it from only owned it for a little over a year and only put 1500 miles on it.
Great detail very much appreciated I have this same gearbox on my Range Rover Vogue L322 2007 3.6 diesel twin turbo so I guess all this info still applies. Many thanks.
Great video. Really help me understand what is happening in my tranz. For the gear 2 to 1 jerk and jolt, can the mechatronic sleeve being replace by its own without replacing the entire mechatronic system.
I replaced everything you mentioned and egs was swapped into the new valvebody.. I'm still having a hard downshift but regular upshifts... Also going from park to drive the car makes a hard thumb or park to reverse same hard thumb... only thing I did not do was reset adaptations
David Khan reset adaptations, all the work without resetting adaptation is basically worthless. Easiest way it you turn ignition to on (car off). Secondly floor the gas pedal, for 30 seconds (I recommend one minute) if this doesn’t help reset adaptation using the software.
VERY informative! Thanks much! I have a '04 Jaguar XKR with a ZF6-something that just turned 60K and been looking for info on preventive maintenance coming up. Then last night, 200' before my driveway the amber trans. warning came on and put it in limp-home! After shut off and restart it's fine again but now I'm leary. Gearing up for a fluid change, will check into that sleeve too. Hope that catches everything I need to worry about. Well done video, thx!
@@SiikPros Heh, it was the start of a series of "fun" b/s! It also soon developed what I presume is what they refer to as the "ZF bark"! A little low pitched "chirp" every time it went into 4th. Anyway I acquired a steel pan (the black one, holds the same amount of juice, has a fill port in the center, heavily built, this was the best move I made!), saw an ad for a valve body service that rectified a number of known issues with these boxes - and a lifetime guarantee too ($650). Replaced the bridge seal and the connector seal (was clean and dry but did it anyway). Got it all done, works great, big difference ... but now leaks into the inspection port of the bell housing! (Slow drip but several drops per day.) Ended up having the trans pulled, they replaced the large O-rings at the pump/trans case. (Another $1,100!) Best guess (help me here if you can!) he told me that the VB rebuild may have screwed up the anti-drainback valve from the converter, he said it only leaked when running - would love your opinion on this. After all that ($2,100 total now) it's been perfect! Well, except last year it developed ANOTHER leak!! Now it seeps ever so slowly at the connector (where it never leaked before but I replaced the seals anyway!) but it appears it could be leaking THROUGH the connector, not AROUND it. Very slow leak, several drops per month. So that's where it stands now, works perfect, seeps a little. Screw it, I'll top it off every year with a few ounces! These seem like a decent x-mission but super temperamental and love being a major p.i.t.a! Any comments are welcome, tia! I know, you're probably sorry you asked, lol!
@@flyurway no regrets about asking lol I'm just on the fence about buying a Jag rn and it has this tranny. Things are bound to go wrong with a 17 year old car, but I'm trying to make sure I don't get myself into a financial burden lol
@@SiikPros I don't know which Jag you're talking about - I have an XKR - but they are a nice car albeit not as well built or nearly as issue-free as my Chevy truck of the same vintage. (They love electrical glitches, never let the battery run low!! Keep a maintainer on it if it sits more than 2 weeks.) The ZF6 is a tough tranny and works well when it works. But they are very temperamental to maintenance. Also, as he states here, the fluid is VERY particular. Though he swears by only getting Lifegaurd 6 at the dealer (I hear about $40/liter!!), I've found Ravenol 6 is the exact same thing for about 1/2 the price. And to go a step further, Ford SP is ALSO the exact same thing (and it's also red) for about 1/3 the price! (Ford used the same tranny early 2000's on Lincolns, T-Birds and some trucks.) I find them both on Amazon. I'm running the Ford fluid since I've gotten this thing squared away and, aside from that minor seepage I mentioned earlier, it's really working better than ever now.
You are a Jedi master tech! Have same 2 to 1 clunk it’s pretty severe in zf 8HP in 2011 F10 with 52k miles would you do fluid, pan all 5 sleeves and electronic cylinder thing plus solenoids? Thanks much! Great series
Great video. You mentioned a 3rd gear selenoid goes bad, can you tell us exactly which selenoid this is? I'm having a trouble shifting up 3-4. Can't go into 4th with higher rpm. Slips out. Possible a diagram for each selenoid and matched gear would be great.
@earlgrant325 I found some Sonix rebuild document on web that describes issues being loss of pressure on the selenoids and it had a few seleniods and the rubber pistons on valve body are worn flat. The document also had which selenoids are active for which gears. It was at least 3 combinations always. But if your having issues it's one 4-5-6 is a selenoid issue or it's the bushing worn out on the e-clutch drum. I swapped my valve body from another one, and now I got same issue on 5th gear. I swapped all the selenoids back and have issues on 4th gear again. I replaced the rubber pistons. Same issue. Put then other selenoids back on and should have issues on 5th again, but didn't. It was still darn 4th!! What a headache. I'm sure it's then bushing on the e-clutch drum. My landy is still parked. I got tired of climbing under and spilling fluid all over me and it still not work. I'm thinking of buying a bushing kit and rebuilt valve body from Alibaba since they're really cheap there. Until then. Still getting a sun tan.
I HAVE THE E60 525I AND AND THE SAME ISSUE LIKE A JOLT WHEN COMING TO A STOP AS EXPLAINED BY HIM SO THANKS FOR THE VIDEO AND I WILL FOLLOW AND GET THIS DONE HOPE IT WORKS
Thanks ShopLifeTV. It's great you share this information. I will be buying a Honda Ridgeline or Passport in 2020. Ridgeline's use the 6-speed while some of the Passport's use a 9-speed. Are these good or bad transmissions?
Great video. You might have saved me a fortune. Any have a link to the mechatronic sleeve parts please? I'm from the UK, I have jerky gear changes but never seen gearbox malfunction on my 2009 Audi Q5 2.0diesel automatic so sounding like your first point in the video. Am I right in thinking to check the oil on my box the pan is going to have to come off?
question Bro not sure if you'll even answer but i'll give it a shot! i got a AG6hp26Z for 2011 750i xDrive, i recently replaced sleeves and adaptor i also installed a Sonnax rebuilt kit anyways my car has that P parking flickering occasionally which is mechatronics issue i know that but would that cause any shifting issues ? i have at times a little jump going on second and third but its not all the time! i also read solenoid EDS 3 almost Maxed out at -384bar i believe max is -400 before i get a code! i replaced that solenoid same day i rebuilt valve body and haven't checked the new value to know if thats still an issue there still driving for it to adapt! every other solenoid was in spec. when i first got the car oil was super black! replaced it like 5 times already but no metal on magnets at all! anyways do you think Mechatronics flickering may be my shifting issue? i didn't test valve body for internal leaks i dint have those tools but based on Ista+ readings valve body its with in Spec. what else can i look in to? ill guive you all reading below prior to valve rebuild.. filling pressures clutch A -108bar clutch B 50 clutch C -384 clutch D 184 clutch E -12 Rapid A 37 ms B 18 C 0 D 0 E 30 ms Any help given greatly appreciated 🤟
Thank you so much for this informative and detailed video. I have watched the other two videos as well (solenoid change and mechatronic change). I had a transmission issue, changed solenoids and the issue got fixed! However, now I have another issue --- my car vibrates when changing the gear from P/N to D/R. The vibration disappears after I move and accelerate. In other words, it vibrates only when the car is on the D/R + Break pedal. The vibration worsens when I spin the wheel all over to left/right while parking. Can this still be related to transmission? e87 the same transmission in the video.
You haven't mentioned anything about any electrical fault codes and how those can affect the transmission. For transmission keeps going into limp mode after I did the full zf service and new solenoids and reset adaptations and relearn procedure. Well turns out it can all be related to this DME generator code (alt seems to be slowly dying) which I didn't think had an affect. Weak alt can't keep electronics all fully powered and thus is throwing the car into trans limp mode with any hard throttle. My adaptation values were nowhere near the limits and it was still slipping. When my tpms suddenly went out at the same time I started to lose pressure in the grabbing of 4th gear, I knew it was related to the alternator code.
If you need a remann ZF6 or ZF8 (upgraded) valve bodies with sonnax valves, zip kit, and new solenoids for way cheaper than the rest of these guys call, Sunbelt Transmission warehouse.
Wassup bro my car when it comes to 3rd gear .. around 3 thousand rpm then it pops out of gear and if I let off the gas it gets back hooked up and drives smoothly through all of the other gears .... I had the car scanned with a obd or odb scanner whatever it is called and the car didn't show anything at all .... So me and my friend changed the fluid and added stop slip to see if anything would change ... Oh yes I have a bmw 328i 2008 with 117k miles...
HI. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. I have a 2006 BMW 550i and it started to slip a bit. I took it to a chain brand transmission shop (starts with 2 A's)and they said that it was leaking fluid from the seal and they recommended that I replace the transmission. They provided me an estimate for the transmission replacement but not to fix the leak. They said they topped off the transmission, too. I took the vehicle home and scanned it with my cheap non-BMW scanner and got a code P0700. Or that is what I remember because my scanner didn't store the code. I cleared the code and now the car will not move under it's own power. Could this be the sleeve components are worn and need replacement? Could it be the solenoids too? I am thinking of replacing them all myself but don't want to invest $600 in parts if the transmission is shot.
My ZF6HP12 goes into limp mode when it gets to temperature. Replaced fluid, filter, sleeves, solenoids, cooling block & reset TCM. Sometimes, the check engine light comes on. Always, stalls my car and it won't start.
Hi love your channel!! So knowledge. I have a 2008 X5 and changed the fluids about 8 months ago along with the sleeves. A week ago it gave me Transmission Malfunction.. I could only drive in a low gear until I got to my destination. Turning it off and on helped but it happens again after about 25 mins of driving. I used all of the factory equipment and fluid. Any idea of what I can do? Thanks
great info's! In case on 6HP gearbox, would you recommend change the entire qty of oil including the oil from torque converter (total of 10 -11 L)or just the 7 L + filter as you more than likely will be available to buy as a kit? Also for changing the total qty of oil (including torque converter) is there any procedure available without invloving the special machine? Thx in advance for your reply!
Hi! Great video! I have a bmw 635d from 2008. I've got an issue with my gearbox. After the car decelerate from around 3000-4000 rpm I can feel a shaking(shock), it's like the gearbox rush to change in to a higher gear. I've been on the service they change oil and pan but it does the same problem, apart that the gearbox it's a perfect shifter. Please help!
I have the 8HP on my challenger and the jolt downshifting issue you mentioned is 100% true so much so that they replaced my transmission under warranty but even after that its still there and I don't know what to do
Great video. I have a 320d; it has two main symptoms. Rpm fluctuates 50-100rpm when cruising at 40 mph, for example. Bad shifts, hard shifts happen when warmed up, but its fine when cold. transmission faulty message too, sometimes. Any tips?
YES ME TOO HAHA!!! I told a transmission specialist the bridge adapter problem and asked if they can fix it. They said no, we can replace the mechatronics unit for $5000... This obviously wouldn't help because the oil it still leaking past the bridge! So i ended up buying the bridge off Ebay with the sleeve for $40 and doing it myself. Bit of a pain to get it done though..... Also had to get some of that expensive oil and new pan/filter
Hey man love your videos bro, super helpful! I have a 2007 335i I bought stuck in limp mode based on transmission codes. In transporting it home I thought I could make it in limp mode but it was a pretty long drive and while headed home the vehicle just died. Refused to try and start at all, no clicks, no noises, nothing. All the dash lights still come on and you can hear fuel pump priming but absolutely no attempt at starting. The codes in getting from my standard obd2 reader are U110F AND P0705. Any help at all you can offer on what you think the problem is would mean the world to hear bro. I’ve read it could be the TCU or short in the wiring but I honestly have no clue where to start, don’t want to jump to replacing things unless I feel there is a good chance it’s actually the problem, I have all the tools and equipment to DIY, just looking for direction. Again any response helps!
Hey mate great vid! I'm doing my gbox oil change but my only diagnostics tool is Carly and I think it doesnt have the option to check gearbox oil temp. Just wondering if you could give us an of how long it would take to warm up? I'm in the UK and current daily temp is around 5-10*C. Thank you
Hei. I dont have any errors. Gerbox is shifting well. The only problem is that rpm is jumping when car is cold. When it gets warm everything works fine. I checked oil level and it was ok. The oil was looking very old - black. I bought new oil. I wonder what else should i change ? :)
I'd like to send you a video of what my 535i is doing... It's very very strange and I have a feeling it's rare symptoms.. basicallyit won't move anywhere in drive or reverse but when it's in neutral if you give it gas it will rev up to about 2,000 RPMs and slowly move forward. It also will not go into park.. any guidance would help. I know you said that the valve body is virtually never bad and it's always a solenoid sand seals. Have you ever heard of these symptoms?
ZF6HP28 in a bmw 2011 335d. What would cause the transmission to shift early? For example goes into 3,4th at 1500-2k Rpms when going slow lime on neighborhood street. New solenoids, seals, filter and fluid.
I replaced all 5 sleeves and solenoids on my 335i, and that did not get rid of the jolt when downshifting from second to the first. The jolt only happens when slowing down abruptly.
My 05 645ci has been sitting in storage for a while because was told I need a new trans, can run and everything but will not go in any gear, could just be the issues you stated.
Thanks for all your videos. This has made the ZF automatics seem more simple. I've just bought a 2006 650i with the SMG transmission. It keeps going into limp mode. Do you have any material on these?
HI Ankur, I own a 525i 2009 with Electronic gear shiftier, it gives a jolt or clunk when i start it up. Gear shifting is very smooth and there is not any other issue. Any advice ? Recently there was a transmission error and car was stuck in "P". My Mechanic changes the solenoid set and after that issue was gone. But this jerk at start issue stays..
Any Diagnostic Questions/Shop Appt. Requests can be done through my website www.shoplifetv.com
Why my 528i only runs on m2
Do i need to buy a new trans
How can i contact you for a tips ?
E46
Drives and shifts great
No reverse tho
noss el 5 estrellas Instagram
Any gearbox video? Removing seal from bell housing.
Ive been searching for advice on my BMW 745LI for over a year. My local BMW dealer wants 4000 bucks to start work on my transmission. I love my BMW autos have been part of my career for 45 years. I’m not a wealthy person, retired living on fixed income ( love Retirement) but I can’t afford to pay that price. So I’ve watched hundreds of videos so I can along with my career knowledge try and do at least a good portion of the work myself. Your transmission video was the best thing sense bubblegum. Great video pointed out exactly what I needed to get started on the BMW that has been sitting for almost a year not being driven. But I love so much that I want sale or trade it. I have hope in being able to tool around in my BMW for good deal of remaining time. THANK YOU you’ve got a new fan of your show
How is it now did u sell it or keep it and fix it plz tell me what you have done cause I am in the same boat brothasa
Dude, your (intricate) BMW systems knowledge is incredible!
Thanks for this! I have a E60 550i with the SAT and an aftermarket ESS supercharger that I installed six years ago, and the only gripe I have about the car is the downshift from 2 to 1 at a stop- the car literally JUMPS forward and it tends to scare the crap out of anybody in it (especially when rolling up behind another vehicle). The car has 83,000 miles on it now and I was just about to flush the fluid anyway. It's good to know that it's just a seal and not a more serious issue. You rock! Subscribed!!!
having the same car but with 275.000 km. 2nd to 3rd upshift is rough. Did you fix your issue?
Mine does the same but 1 gear slips tho
@@mariabutler3356 : sorry for the late reply... YES. The problem got quite a bit worse, and I ended up having problems shifting in every gear and getting slippage in the lower gears. I thought the transmission was toast, but replacing all the sleeves and seals cleaned everything up and it drives perfectly again. Aside from brakes, this was the first major issue I've had with the E60 and I am happy that it was so easy to fix.
My E46 M3, however........
ZF6 are really good transmissions if maintained well. Penrite have a very cheap alternative to the Lifeguard 6, called Penrite ATF BMV fully synthetic. I own 4 cars all with ZF6HP26 transmissions, after full service (all seals, valve body clean, etc) oil and filter they have all performed excellent with this new OEM replacement fluid, at a fraction of the cost.
Hii. From where did you get seals in Australia.
@@tharinduchathuranga4225 have to find out myself man, did you find a source in Australia for them?
all supercheap and repco have them, youll need around 6 litres if doing a full service
I have just finished repairing thid exact fault
Dead solonoid replaced the sleeve seals all working again
If your confident with diy put sonnax kit through it the accumulater piston dampers flatter out inside the valve body and the sonnax kits fix alot of issues with in the valve body
Gresat vid by the way your rite alot people can not diagnose transmission faults
Excellent, finally someone bringing some lights on a very dark issue.
Excellent video mate,
I have finally solved the problem with my BMW E60, the range sensor was at fault and your video helped me a lot to diagnose the fault.
Keep up the great work!
Cheers!
what symptoms were you experiencing?
Hello, I got a delay in upshift, from 2 to 3. What could that be?
N.C. resident here, triad area 📍 Thanks for your knowledge, I changed out mines and perfected it. I’ve changed the sleeves on 2 other e90’s for a reasonably lower prices 💪🏽 safe to say I’ve been making money 🥳🥳 thanks sinsei 🤲🏾
Where at in the triad area are you I’m here too need some help with my F01!
Thank you so much, had a transmission shop look at it and they were going to change the whole mechatronic unit. I have the confidence to do the solenoid change myself after your awesome videos.
Straight fire video as always….Your video on replacing the sleeve save me a ton of money
Glad it saved you money! Thanks for watching!
@@ShopLifeTV the problem? I did all of tranny pan- sleeves, seals on my 335i at 130k (which was the original) - fixed the sleeve leak and Bamo- new car feel- I bought an n62 550i with 173k. Did the same thing- but not the solenoids! Still crappy shifting- back under we go! Yo- can I reset the tranny after I’m done with Carly or do I need ista? (Again- great content- second time watching this!
@Dustin´s Fish Tanks I would like to know what were the symptoms you suffered before changing the sleeves. I suffer from small jerks between first and third, and the reductions are somewhat abrupt too. Do you think those pulls will be fixed by changing all the sleeves and connectors? The oil in the box is recently changed. Thank you very much and congratulations for having been decisive in your car.
@@ShopLifeTVI have this 2nd to 1st jerk. Just starting to drive the car you don’t feel it. Later as your drive yes. It could be only low oil? Why it doesn’t feel all the time?
Thanks!
Brother your world class hard to find a proper mechanic like you
Thank you! Great video shows your knowledge and experience. You saved me over $12k on a transmission per BMW. Changed out the mechatronic unit with sleeve, plug adapter per you video. Then had Bimmerhaus program mechatronic unit with IMPA
Fucking hero I swear
Awesome job! Came here looking for help with the ZF 6HP in my 2008 Jaguar XJR. Clunky 2-1 shift, now I know!
Did it help im on same situation what did you do exactly. Thanks
You organize your presentation very well, I am an Audi tech but same applies here and you are spot on, are you an instructor?
I wish you can make a series of videos on the ZF8hp. Your videos are excellent.
Reverse neutral range sensor error here 545i looks like you will be my best friend for the step by step as I have never done a transmission.
This is my weakness part when doing diagnostics. I diag for shops in my area and when a transmission issue comes in they right away send it to a transmission shop. So the very few I diagnose takes forever because of the research. Transmission are a different animal.
man u very honest person keep it up we need people like u in earth!!!
Damn bro you covered my issues with my e65 in less than 12 minutes I've been chasing this for a month now.
What issues were you having? I currently have a code for 4E25 for electronic pressure control valve 6.
I have a 2006 BMW 530 is with the SMG transmission.... The vehicle was bought second hand... and now has 200,000 kms.... In October 2021... I had a transmission problem.... While in automatic and stuck in traffic at 5 km an hour the car went into neutral and would not...move.... It was told and eventually repaired at a transmission shop after 2 months replacing the actuator with a rebuilt unit from SMG society in Germany.... The car ran superbly for 45 days...about 400 kms.. We had a massive snow storm in Montreal and the temperature then dropped to minus 25 degrees Celsius... The car was stationary for about 3 days
Penrite are doing a OEM direct replacement fluid for Lifeguard6 ATF its called Penrite ATF BMV full synthetic and it can be used in ZF transmissions. It costs a fraction of Lifeguard, around $10/litre saving heaps of money.
As always, great video 👍🏻
Big topic that I hear a lot too!
Great video. I wished I would have watched this a long time ago but luckily for me I was having that clunk between first and 2nd and one time it was a hard jolt. I took it to the shop in Solana Beach, California called Hugo's European Auto repair. They did the transmission service, replaced the sleeves you mentioned and got me back on the road. Luckily I didn't do any other damage and oddly enough BMW calls it lifetime fluid transmission and I preach to everybody who I'm in chat rooms with and I tell them replace it at every 60,000 mi regardless what BMW says it is not lifetime transmission fluid...😅
This is the same transmission for the Land Rover Range Rover HSE. Thanks man great video!! On that square Megatronic sleeve do you need to reset anything if replacing that since it came with the kit?
No
You my friend are exactly correct. You've come that far, just replace them all.
I have really enjoyed your videos and very detailed explaining. You are extremely knowledgeable.
I am looking to you for help after spending way too much money on failed diagnostics. I have a 2006 525i with Transmission Fault. I replaced fluids, transmission pan/filter, and all the gaskets between the valve body and transmission. I have codes:
CD99
CD9E
CD9D
CDB0
D358
A3AA
A0B1
Any ideas?
Thanks so much for the info!! You just described EXACTLY what my 2005 530i e60 I just bought is doing! Thud when stopping from 2 to 1 like someone lightly rear ended the car! Also, it shifts ok if I drive quite softly but if I give it 3/4 throttle through all the gears it seems to get to maybe 3 to 4 or 4 t 5 (Im not sure, and it suddenly doesn't know if it should shift up or kick down and revs highly and throws the 'transmission malfunction!" error and light plus it goes into safe mode (1 gear only) until I turn motor off and let it sit and reset for 20 minutes or so.. Im hoping it's all to do with the mechatronics sleeve! - the previous owner just spend $4000aud getting it all 'fixed' it by way of replacing solenoid 2 for $200aud and a 'transmission service' kit which sounds like gaskets perhaps for $420 AUD - which basically did noting by the looks of it when they should have put a new mechatronics sleeve in instead!
Hi did you get yours fixed? And how did you manage to sort it out?
How did your fix go?
Man great video. 04 E60 525i, only 100k miles started slipping and going in to limp mode. Had input shaft output shaft rpm mismatch errors. Found a high end indy shop that said the clutches are toast. I guess it's not just solenoids then eh?
I'm not sure how you know all this stuff but thank you for sharing your knowledge it's very helpful it's like content gold
i like the way he explain the transmission process
you are the best for you information
Great video 👍 thanks for sharing!
Looks like 54 certified BMW mechanics disliked this video.
Lost 54 new transmission swaps at the Dealer.
Because they trying to rip you off! 😡
YOUR THE MAN BRO I THOUGHT MY 2009 535xi trans was a goner , going. To need to get this job done again hopefully it fixes it for the 2nd time thought the first time It did it was the sleeves and stuff the car was stick on park “P”
The way you explain everything it Makes the whole process feel easier and easier . Thanks alot
Thank You!!
@ShopLifeTV
Hello, I have a question. Can I change ZF 4HP20 to ZF 6HP automatic transmission on Peugeot 406? Thank you.
Fantastic info😊👌
I'm driving a Audi A8 4.2 TDI whit zf 6hp26a and this was just great stuff to know. Thank you👍
First off thanks! You are one knowledgeable mechanic.
I’m daughter bought her first car, a 2006 BMW 325i on the way home it jerked when her boyfriend tried using the sport shift. It was Erving but not shifting in to gear 3rd or fourth. They pulled over and parked it when they started it they put it in drive but it doesn’t move it only revs. It goes into Neutral and park and reverse though. Make a hard clunk when shifting. I towed it home And dropped the pan. Oil was really black. Have you dealt with this or anyone else in the comments? I ordered a new pan filter and now I’m thinking just changing all the sleeves and solenoids.
What did you end up doing in facing the same issue in my 2011 bmw 328i??
@@damnbruh2017 one of the plates in the tranny was cracked had to have it rebuilt
How ended up? I have jerky upshifts on sport (DS) with low trottle, but in high trottle nothing, yesterday I saw that the trans pan is leaking, but aside low trottle on sport or manual works fine. Have the car since tuesday
Hey Jason, great video. Do you have a video showing up how to install/setup ISTA?
I did all that replacing sleeves and solenoids it didn’t fix the problem. I decided to replaced the valve body with a new one but still jerking on the second gear.Now I’m replacing the whole transmission and hope this will work before I lose my mind.
Did you clear the transmission learning memory and re adapt it properly ?
Better with new one?
@@michaelguilas4057 Are you sure it's the transmission at fault here ? Did you change the torque converter ?
Awesome videos - massively informative!! About to do my wife’s gorgeous newly acquired 2010 E64’s 60k service, among a few leaks!! 😢😢😢
I appreciate you giving costs. most people don't
Thank you for all the info you provide to all the Beemer community.
Great video! I will be doing the preventative maintenance on my ZF transmission. I bought a 08 3.0si e85 a few months ago. I know the owner before the guy I got it from did a bunch of stuff but not sure on the transmission. The guy I got it from only owned it for a little over a year and only put 1500 miles on it.
Great detail very much appreciated I have this same gearbox on my Range Rover Vogue L322 2007 3.6 diesel twin turbo so I guess all this info still applies. Many thanks.
Same here
Hi Jason what does it mean when I’m driving at 60-70 mph and the revs are fluctuating ? Great video font of knowledge mate
Same problem 😅 e60 535d/2005 i think torque converter or pressure converter..😮
Same problem around 30mph/50kmh
Bmw e91 lci 318d with 6hp21
I read different stuff
Valvebody
Maf sensor
Torque converter
???😅
Thank you very much for putting this up. Looking at a Jaguar S-Type V8 super charged car that has recently had the 6 speed ZF transmission rebuilt.
Great video. Really help me understand what is happening in my tranz. For the gear 2 to 1 jerk and jolt, can the mechatronic sleeve being replace by its own without replacing the entire mechatronic system.
yes you can sealing sleeve can be replace separately
I replaced everything you mentioned and egs was swapped into the new valvebody.. I'm still having a hard downshift but regular upshifts... Also going from park to drive the car makes a hard thumb or park to reverse same hard thumb... only thing I did not do was reset adaptations
David Khan reset adaptations, all the work without resetting adaptation is basically worthless. Easiest way it you turn ignition to on (car off). Secondly floor the gas pedal, for 30 seconds (I recommend one minute) if this doesn’t help reset adaptation using the software.
I changed these sleeves on my ‘06 330I and still has the jolt between 2 and 1st gear when coming to a stop
VERY informative! Thanks much! I have a '04 Jaguar XKR with a ZF6-something that just turned 60K and been looking for info on preventive maintenance coming up. Then last night, 200' before my driveway the amber trans. warning came on and put it in limp-home! After shut off and restart it's fine again but now I'm leary. Gearing up for a fluid change, will check into that sleeve too. Hope that catches everything I need to worry about. Well done video, thx!
How did it turn out
@@SiikPros Heh, it was the start of a series of "fun" b/s! It also soon developed what I presume is what they refer to as the "ZF bark"! A little low pitched "chirp" every time it went into 4th. Anyway I acquired a steel pan (the black one, holds the same amount of juice, has a fill port in the center, heavily built, this was the best move I made!), saw an ad for a valve body service that rectified a number of known issues with these boxes - and a lifetime guarantee too ($650). Replaced the bridge seal and the connector seal (was clean and dry but did it anyway). Got it all done, works great, big difference ... but now leaks into the inspection port of the bell housing! (Slow drip but several drops per day.) Ended up having the trans pulled, they replaced the large O-rings at the pump/trans case. (Another $1,100!) Best guess (help me here if you can!) he told me that the VB rebuild may have screwed up the anti-drainback valve from the converter, he said it only leaked when running - would love your opinion on this. After all that ($2,100 total now) it's been perfect! Well, except last year it developed ANOTHER leak!! Now it seeps ever so slowly at the connector (where it never leaked before but I replaced the seals anyway!) but it appears it could be leaking THROUGH the connector, not AROUND it. Very slow leak, several drops per month. So that's where it stands now, works perfect, seeps a little. Screw it, I'll top it off every year with a few ounces! These seem like a decent x-mission but super temperamental and love being a major p.i.t.a! Any comments are welcome, tia! I know, you're probably sorry you asked, lol!
@@flyurway no regrets about asking lol
I'm just on the fence about buying a Jag rn and it has this tranny. Things are bound to go wrong with a 17 year old car, but I'm trying to make sure I don't get myself into a financial burden lol
@@flyurway I agree just keep pouring oil in it
@@SiikPros I don't know which Jag you're talking about - I have an XKR - but they are a nice car albeit not as well built or nearly as issue-free as my Chevy truck of the same vintage. (They love electrical glitches, never let the battery run low!! Keep a maintainer on it if it sits more than 2 weeks.) The ZF6 is a tough tranny and works well when it works. But they are very temperamental to maintenance. Also, as he states here, the fluid is VERY particular. Though he swears by only getting Lifegaurd 6 at the dealer (I hear about $40/liter!!), I've found Ravenol 6 is the exact same thing for about 1/2 the price. And to go a step further, Ford SP is ALSO the exact same thing (and it's also red) for about 1/3 the price! (Ford used the same tranny early 2000's on Lincolns, T-Birds and some trucks.) I find them both on Amazon. I'm running the Ford fluid since I've gotten this thing squared away and, aside from that minor seepage I mentioned earlier, it's really working better than ever now.
Awesome explanation Ankur. Thanks a lot.
Great video my 2008 bmw 550i 2 gear slips no check engine
Redline D6 is also good fluid for these transmissions. What about sticking accumulator pistons in the valve body?
Should you reset adaptations after replacing all the seals?
That sleeve adapter was the most pain in the Butt to replace LOL, access wise on the Rover
You are a Jedi master tech! Have same 2 to 1 clunk it’s pretty severe in zf 8HP in 2011 F10 with 52k miles would you do fluid, pan all 5 sleeves and electronic cylinder thing plus solenoids? Thanks much! Great series
Great video. You mentioned a 3rd gear selenoid goes bad, can you tell us exactly which selenoid this is? I'm having a trouble shifting up 3-4. Can't go into 4th with higher rpm. Slips out. Possible a diagram for each selenoid and matched gear would be great.
any update? thanks
Update?
@earlgrant325 I found some Sonix rebuild document on web that describes issues being loss of pressure on the selenoids and it had a few seleniods and the rubber pistons on valve body are worn flat. The document also had which selenoids are active for which gears. It was at least 3 combinations always. But if your having issues it's one 4-5-6 is a selenoid issue or it's the bushing worn out on the e-clutch drum. I swapped my valve body from another one, and now I got same issue on 5th gear. I swapped all the selenoids back and have issues on 4th gear again. I replaced the rubber pistons. Same issue. Put then other selenoids back on and should have issues on 5th again, but didn't. It was still darn 4th!! What a headache. I'm sure it's then bushing on the e-clutch drum. My landy is still parked. I got tired of climbing under and spilling fluid all over me and it still not work. I'm thinking of buying a bushing kit and rebuilt valve body from Alibaba since they're really cheap there. Until then. Still getting a sun tan.
@@UptownFightsWhat have you done?
I HAVE THE E60 525I AND AND THE SAME ISSUE LIKE A JOLT WHEN COMING TO A STOP AS EXPLAINED BY HIM SO THANKS FOR THE VIDEO AND I WILL FOLLOW AND GET THIS DONE HOPE IT WORKS
Anything???
Thanks ShopLifeTV. It's great you share this information. I will be buying a Honda Ridgeline or Passport in 2020. Ridgeline's use the 6-speed while some of the Passport's use a 9-speed. Are these good or bad transmissions?
Great video. You might have saved me a fortune. Any have a link to the mechatronic sleeve parts please? I'm from the UK, I have jerky gear changes but never seen gearbox malfunction on my 2009 Audi Q5 2.0diesel automatic so sounding like your first point in the video. Am I right in thinking to check the oil on my box the pan is going to have to come off?
www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-parts-113.html I hope I'm not too late !
Great video!!! Would replacing the sleves and fluid solve gear hunting?
question Bro not sure if you'll even answer but i'll give it a shot! i got a AG6hp26Z for 2011 750i xDrive, i recently replaced sleeves and adaptor i also installed a Sonnax rebuilt kit anyways my car has that P parking flickering occasionally which is mechatronics issue i know that but would that cause any shifting issues ? i have at times a little jump going on second and third but its not all the time! i also read solenoid EDS 3 almost Maxed out at -384bar i believe max is -400 before i get a code! i replaced that solenoid same day i rebuilt valve body and haven't checked the new value to know if thats still an issue there still driving for it to adapt! every other solenoid was in spec. when i first got the car oil was super black! replaced it like 5 times already but no metal on magnets at all! anyways do you think Mechatronics flickering may be my shifting issue? i didn't test valve body for internal leaks i dint have those tools but based on Ista+ readings valve body its with in Spec. what else can i look in to? ill guive you all reading below prior to valve rebuild..
filling pressures
clutch A -108bar
clutch B 50
clutch C -384
clutch D 184
clutch E -12
Rapid
A 37 ms
B 18
C 0
D 0
E 30 ms
Any help given greatly appreciated 🤟
very intelligent & knowledgeable dude;thanks friend,you're a guru ! wow man,thanks!
New E90 owner!! Seen your videos before. I knew I subscribe for a reason. This is so helpfull and saved me so much money. !!$$$$
Thanks-am going to another transmission shop with this info. Got a gloom & doom estimate for $6k
"The fluid on these transmissions aren't particularly cheap" Facts, 20$USD a liter is insane
Thank you so much for this informative and detailed video. I have watched the other two videos as well (solenoid change and mechatronic change).
I had a transmission issue, changed solenoids and the issue got fixed! However, now I have another issue --- my car vibrates when changing the gear from P/N to D/R. The vibration disappears after I move and accelerate.
In other words, it vibrates only when the car is on the D/R + Break pedal. The vibration worsens when I spin the wheel all over to left/right while parking.
Can this still be related to transmission? e87 the same transmission in the video.
You haven't mentioned anything about any electrical fault codes and how those can affect the transmission. For transmission keeps going into limp mode after I did the full zf service and new solenoids and reset adaptations and relearn procedure. Well turns out it can all be related to this DME generator code (alt seems to be slowly dying) which I didn't think had an affect. Weak alt can't keep electronics all fully powered and thus is throwing the car into trans limp mode with any hard throttle. My adaptation values were nowhere near the limits and it was still slipping. When my tpms suddenly went out at the same time I started to lose pressure in the grabbing of 4th gear, I knew it was related to the alternator code.
If you need a remann ZF6 or ZF8 (upgraded) valve bodies with sonnax valves, zip kit, and new solenoids for way cheaper than the rest of these guys call, Sunbelt Transmission warehouse.
Thank you! Great info!
how do you verify / checking the solenoid if its good or bad ?if i test using a multi-test ,what scale and values i should look at it?
Do you have any videos regarding reading the transmission codes, for solenoid errors and whatnot, with the INPA program? Thanks!
Have you ever had to rebuild a ZF transmission? as In replace the clutch packs and stuff?
Wassup bro my car when it comes to 3rd gear .. around 3 thousand rpm then it pops out of gear and if I let off the gas it gets back hooked up and drives smoothly through all of the other gears .... I had the car scanned with a obd or odb scanner whatever it is called and the car didn't show anything at all .... So me and my friend changed the fluid and added stop slip to see if anything would change ... Oh yes I have a bmw 328i 2008 with 117k miles...
HI. Thanks for the video, it was very helpful.
I have a 2006 BMW 550i and it started to slip a bit. I took it to a chain brand transmission shop (starts with 2 A's)and they said that it was leaking fluid from the seal and they recommended that I replace the transmission. They provided me an estimate for the transmission replacement but not to fix the leak. They said they topped off the transmission, too. I took the vehicle home and scanned it with my cheap non-BMW scanner and got a code P0700. Or that is what I remember because my scanner didn't store the code. I cleared the code and now the car will not move under it's own power. Could this be the sleeve components are worn and need replacement? Could it be the solenoids too? I am thinking of replacing them all myself but don't want to invest $600 in parts if the transmission is shot.
Great video, I have transmission issue with my BMW E90 335XI
Really grateful for your videos bro! Quick question though, is it cool to use Pentosin atf1?
My ZF6HP12 goes into limp mode when it gets to temperature. Replaced fluid, filter, sleeves, solenoids, cooling block & reset TCM. Sometimes, the check engine light comes on. Always, stalls my car and it won't start.
Thanks for the info....can a used egs be coded to a different car. I've been told it will only work if it's new.
Hi love your channel!! So knowledge. I have a 2008 X5 and changed the fluids about 8 months ago along with the sleeves. A week ago it gave me Transmission Malfunction.. I could only drive in a low gear until I got to my destination. Turning it off and on helped but it happens again after about 25 mins of driving. I used all of the factory equipment and fluid. Any idea of what I can do? Thanks
Did you ever fix your problem?
Did you end up changing the solenoids?
great info's!
In case on 6HP gearbox, would you recommend change the entire qty of oil including the oil from torque converter (total of 10 -11 L)or just the 7 L + filter as you more than likely will be available to buy as a kit?
Also for changing the total qty of oil (including torque converter) is there any procedure available without invloving the special machine?
Thx in advance for your reply!
The jag forums have a DIY flush procedure.
@@hoisinga do you have that procedure?
Saludos tengo un rrsport 2006,6hp me golpea al pasar de 1 a. 2 y viceversa, que debo reparar exactamente o sustituir?, gracias
Hi! Great video!
I have a bmw 635d from 2008. I've got an issue with my gearbox. After the car decelerate from around 3000-4000 rpm I can feel a shaking(shock), it's like the gearbox rush to change in to a higher gear. I've been on the service they change oil and pan but it does the same problem, apart that the gearbox it's a perfect shifter. Please help!
I have the 8HP on my challenger and the jolt downshifting issue you mentioned is 100% true so much so that they replaced my transmission under warranty but even after that its still there and I don't know what to do
Great video.
I have a 320d; it has two main symptoms.
Rpm fluctuates 50-100rpm when cruising at 40 mph, for example.
Bad shifts, hard shifts happen when warmed up, but its fine when cold.
transmission faulty message too, sometimes.
Any tips?
Good advice! My coworker has a 2007 3 series that is stuck in limp mode. She was quoted $5000 to have fixed!
YES ME TOO HAHA!!! I told a transmission specialist the bridge adapter problem and asked if they can fix it. They said no, we can replace the mechatronics unit for $5000... This obviously wouldn't help because the oil it still leaking past the bridge! So i ended up buying the bridge off Ebay with the sleeve for $40 and doing it myself. Bit of a pain to get it done though..... Also had to get some of that expensive oil and new pan/filter
Bloom0to9 Did you drove to the transmission specialist afterwards to teach him a lesson? 😂😂
Hey man love your videos bro, super helpful! I have a 2007 335i I bought stuck in limp mode based on transmission codes. In transporting it home I thought I could make it in limp mode but it was a pretty long drive and while headed home the vehicle just died. Refused to try and start at all, no clicks, no noises, nothing. All the dash lights still come on and you can hear fuel pump priming but absolutely no attempt at starting. The codes in getting from my standard obd2 reader are U110F AND P0705. Any help at all you can offer on what you think the problem is would mean the world to hear bro. I’ve read it could be the TCU or short in the wiring but I honestly have no clue where to start, don’t want to jump to replacing things unless I feel there is a good chance it’s actually the problem, I have all the tools and equipment to DIY, just looking for direction. Again any response helps!
Hey mate great vid! I'm doing my gbox oil change but my only diagnostics tool is Carly and I think it doesnt have the option to check gearbox oil temp. Just wondering if you could give us an of how long it would take to warm up? I'm in the UK and current daily temp is around 5-10*C. Thank you
You really make me want too bring my BMW 330ci zhp too you..
Thank You !! Great video Keep up the great work....hope you get at least 500k likes !!
Wow, thanks!
Great video! What are your thoughts regarding incorporating a Sonnax Zip Kit along with solenoid & sleeve maintenance? Thanks
Hei. I dont have any errors. Gerbox is shifting well. The only problem is that rpm is jumping when car is cold. When it gets warm everything works fine. I checked oil level and it was ok. The oil was looking very old - black. I bought new oil. I wonder what else should i change ? :)
I'd like to send you a video of what my 535i is doing... It's very very strange and I have a feeling it's rare symptoms.. basicallyit won't move anywhere in drive or reverse but when it's in neutral if you give it gas it will rev up to about 2,000 RPMs and slowly move forward. It also will not go into park.. any guidance would help. I know you said that the valve body is virtually never bad and it's always a solenoid sand seals. Have you ever heard of these symptoms?
Your videos are excellent!
lots of good information, thank you for sharing
ZF6HP28 in a bmw 2011 335d. What would cause the transmission to shift early? For example goes into 3,4th at 1500-2k Rpms when going slow lime on neighborhood street. New solenoids, seals, filter and fluid.
update?
Any update?
Is it common for the ZF8HP to have mechatronic sleeve issues as well?
Any info on ZF 8HP45? codes or troubleshooting? thanks great videos
I replaced all 5 sleeves and solenoids on my 335i, and that did not get rid of the jolt when downshifting from second to the first. The jolt only happens when slowing down abruptly.
Did you ever find out the issue im havin the same problem from 4-3 and 3-2 downshifts in sport
I didn't drive in sport much, but as far as I remember the jolt only happened when going from the second to the first.
My 05 645ci has been sitting in storage for a while because was told I need a new trans, can run and everything but will not go in any gear, could just be the issues you stated.
Thanks for all your videos. This has made the ZF automatics seem more simple. I've just bought a 2006 650i with the SMG transmission. It keeps going into limp mode. Do you have any material on these?
HI Ankur, I own a 525i 2009 with Electronic gear shiftier, it gives a jolt or clunk when i start it up. Gear shifting is very smooth and there is not any other issue. Any advice ? Recently there was a transmission error and car was stuck in "P". My Mechanic changes the solenoid set and after that issue was gone. But this jerk at start issue stays..