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ZF 6HP Adaptations (Part 1) Diag.net (REVISED)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2018
- Full discussion on DIAG.NET here: diag.net/msg/m...
Mickey Figueroa from Best Motor Works provides an overview on the ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission. This transmission was used in hundreds of thousands of BMW's, Jaguars, Land Rovers, VW's and Audis. Adaptations are a key feedback indicator and this video provides an in-depth overview of how the service professional can use them to their advantage.
![[UNCUT] หวั่นขาดความเชื่อมั่น ศาล รธน. วินิจฉัยคดีถอนถอนนายกฯ เศรษฐา | คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ | 14 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8hKvQe_vh3o/mqdefault.jpg)
Oh boy do I wish we had someone like you near me!!
Fr lol I'm scared to even let anybody work on my car but me lol but I'm busy
Thank you for this information. This video and its second part are great information for anyone even remotely related to 6HP transmissions.
These two videos are extremely helpful
Best Adaption Video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Profi Works with Autologic
I wish I had changed the valvebody solenoids on my 6hp28 when I serviced/flushed trans. Oil was quite clean and no shavings found at 77k miles, 335d car. Experiencing overly delayed firm shifting on
gears 2-3 that was worse when cold and driving in slow acceleration. After I serviced the trans and flashed a performance tune it did minimal to help the situation. I will need do the service again with solenoids.☹️
This video is amazing. Thank you.
Ok, i did a drain and fill on my zf6hp19 with the valvoline. I had a 4-5 flare before i did it and it seemed to fix that for me. No more ZF fluid for me, only Valvoline max life. I have a lot of miles on the car. Changed fluid and pan @ 150k miles with ZF and drove 90 K with flare if pushed hard it would flare so i just drove it easy for the 90 K to prevent it flaring. Drain and fill with Valvoline @ 240k. ZF fluid is about 5 times more expensive also
You good in what you do Mr man
That was awesome. Thank you.
07 335i here previous owner said he replaced the transmission with a low mile before he sold it to me and since Then I’ve noticed it drives fine when you drive it slow and take it easy but the trans doesn’t know when to shift and keeps revving out and downshifts sporadically during and after wot , and also Limp mode and hard downshifts after doing pulls. I’m thinking maybe when the new trans was installed it never got adaptation cleared and reset or maybe it’s something worse .
Super detailed data to have on the ZF 6HP - One comment seems questionable "The ATF will expand 30% for every 10% Celsius" - This seems excessive. This would indicate a 30 degree increase would DOUBLE the Fluid volume? That does not sound plausible. If temps went from 0 degrees Celsius to 60 degrees, 4 liters of fluid would become 14.3 liters?
Hello John, thanks for the feedback. The quote should actually have said: “fluid has the physical ability to expand 30% of its volume from 40-50 degrees celsius” not through the temperature range assumed.
HELP!!ZF TRANSMISSION QUESTION!
A question on ZF transmission problems on 2008 e90 335i.
The story short: got an e90 335i RWD 80k miles, origin USA.
-Recently it started not shifting from P when it’s cold started. Give it few minutes and it shifts and you can drives good for the rest of the day regardless of how hard you hit it. No fault codes or anything on scanner.
-I figured well the oil is so dirty that it doesn’t go through the pores and it takes time to heat up so I changed the transmission oil and the mechatronic seal thinking it would solve the issue. While driving on highway about 100km/hr, I hit a bit of gas while driving around 100km/hr and it went to limp mode so continued driving 2km till I got home and parked it.
- next day I towed it to garage, took out the valve body and the mechatronic seal was slightly torn.
-Ok so I put a new one again, filled it up with
oil, closed it and drove it home.
- but I still got the same problem. Car doesn’t shift from P right away on a cold start, and now I’ve got a new problem which is between 3rd and 4th gear the shift is very very bumpy.
-i Connect to inpa yesterday and did the adaptation reset and followed the procedure thinking it would solve the bumpy shift but still very bumpy between 3rd and 4th only.
What do you think I’m up to? Have you had anything similar problem?
Thanks for your input.
This is gold. Thank you.
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Hi. At last someone who talks real sense on these boxes! Could I try and explain my fault? From cold it has little to no drive. If i go through the box it helps and once warm it will behave sometimes without fault unless under load, if I shift to manual it goes up through the gears to 6th without drive. Do you think this could be seal and tubes? Or valves? Ive just purchased valve block seal and tubes to try first. Thanks
Hello, I have a 2006 range rover HSE and a couple of months ago started having hard sift(like a clunk) from 1st to 2nd gear, the other gears runs perfect. Interestingly when I put the car in sport mode it shifted fine from 1st to 2nd likewise when shift manually no issue is noted. I replaced solenoids but no changes were noted so I put back the original ones, I also replaced all the rubber gaskets (3 cylindricals and the square one), reset the adaptive through RSW software and "tried" to do the re-learn process but it seems doesn't work its still having hard shift from 1st to 2nd. My suspicion is about wrong numbers in pressure value to open valves when shift from 1st to 2nd but I don't have how to confirm. Any thoughts related with? Thanks in advance.
I have a Land Rover with a low range. Could I do this road adaptation procedure in low range? This would make it MUCH easier to do
Your statement that transmission fluid expands 30 percent for every 10 degrees Celsius is wildly inaccurate. The coefficient of thermal expansion for transmission oil is somewhere about .0008 per degree Celsius, which is less than 1 percent per 10 degrees Celsius.
hello..after watching your 2 videos i had a very good idea of my problem and fix....2006 jaguar s type r with zf 6hp26...i was having a rpm flare at full throttle from 2nd to 3rd and some jerky up and downshifts and hanging in gear sometimes a little longer than expected..i decided to go all in...replace all solenoids and end caps...also all accumulators and seperator seal...also the 4 tube seals and bridge seal...new filter pan and fluid....before the repair was clutch A=400 mllibars...clutch B =280 clutch C =400 clutch D = 143 and clutch E =400....after repairs and successful adaptation drive....clutch A =-230 clutch B =-262 clutch C =101 clutch D =-120 and clutch E=-270....i do not know what a new tranny acts like but now this one is sure close...all shifts smooth and power transfers very quickly....your thoughts appreciated and thanks again for showing the values and what they mean and very thorough explanations.also for posting the adaptation parameters..forgot to add the car has 170,000 miles on it...
Hey Mickey what scan tool would be best for me to carry out these procedures from home, with cost in mind. Thanks.
Ista or inpa is the best not 2 expensive. I just picked up a Foxwell nt250 elite. It's a small hand held it works pretty well but is slow
Ok, so...positive mbar adaptation(+xxx mbar), means a loss of pressure for the the respective clutch. But, what does the negative mbar adaptation(- xxx mbar) means? Also, i see that are some rapid filling times for each clutch. What do they mean? Is there an adaptation procedure also for 8HP transmission?
6:40
When my bmw e61 is cold and i lock the cruise control at 40-50 or 60 km/h the rev is slightly pending. When the engine and automatic transmission reach operating temperature its acting normal
can I please ask if you experiencing and small kick when you, for example, holding brake at stop crosssection and then when you release the brake the car little kick or it's perfectly smooth. I do a test drive on car I want to buy and the shifts were smooth(they were little noticible when cold, but smooth at operating temp) but the only thing I have noticed and worrying me was that little kick when the car starts moving from standstill(gearbox in D) Thanks.
@@banny123456 No kick just smooth
Sir I accidentally Bend 2 pins from the 16 pin connector, do I need to replace the complete unit?
Oh how you did it man?
Hi my ZF 6HP 26 has difficulty shifting gears: It slips the gears from 3-4 (code P0783). And gear 5 incorrect ratio (code P0735). And gear 6 incorrect ratio (code P0729). I cannot drive the car now because it always goes into fault mode when trying to shift from 3-4. What should I do? Thanks
Hi Aman,
Are you an industry service professional? If so, you may want to consider posting your query within Diagnostic Network along with your diagnostic findings to date. If not, we recommend that you seek out a professional service center for support.
@@DiagNetwork I would be grateful for your assistance and expert advice on how I can fix my car please. I would be really grateful for any advice you can give. Thanks
Hi, I found your video, and I was hoping, you can advise me, on my transmission problem I have on my bmw x6 35d zf26
Up shifting from 4th to 5th the car goes in to limp mode. The error code I’m getting is 4f85 gear monitoring coupling E
I’ve changed the adapter seals, and new ATF fluid, reset the adaptations. Unfortunately the problem is still there. I was wondering if I would replace the bushing on clutch E would solve the problem?
Thanks in advance!
Vilmos
Are you an industry service professional? If so, you may want to consider posting your query within Diagnostic Network along with your diagnostic findings to date. If not, we recommend that you seek out a professional service center for support. You can find that original video along with the discussion from this address: diag.net/msg/m56p49ze7389h4bs...
Have you serviced and replaced the valve-body solenoids? And also the plastic components?
Do you really think it is lifetime fluid? Not what ZF says.
We agree, the fluid is not lifetime, or shall we say, professionals know when that fluid's lifetime is up!
The fluid is NOT lifetime according to ZF. Must be changed at around every 50,000 miles....
Who can find a road to do such adaptation? NINE TIMES?
Did it tonight, was a kind of a bitch with a random car here or there...late night is the easiest time.
How reliable t these transmission?
200k on mine runs great
If you ever bought a brand new BMW and asked why it had 50+ miles on it and they told you "its from setting the transmission adaptations" then by all means you should follow the ZF procedure. But if you've ever thought about the sheer lunacy of BMW taking every one of the 2.3 million cars they make per year out to the Nurburgring to do 45 minutes of random stops and starts then you probably understand that this is all very much out of context. They'd only just now be finishing up the 2014 models LOL. If BMW doesn't even set adaptations this way on a brand new car then WTF? Obviously there are some default values set at the start. Then you drive and it adapts. And when you reset to those values what do you think happens? Hopefully not this idiotic procedure that will 'adapt' your car to driving in a way that nobody actually drives. That you paid this guy 1-2 hours of shop time for. I'll assume you can figure out the actual answer.
Smart guy, but i would never put ZF fluid in BMW transmission, only Valvoline Max life. Use ZF filter and pan!
Why not
While MaxLife is labelled as LT161411 whatever compatible, it's debatable as to if it truly is. Aside from cost, you saying to NEVER use ZF fluid (without an engineers explanation as to why not) is useless.
Hello Mikey 🫣 questions as a tranny expert, i know is an old video and you may not reply but ill give it a Try!! i got a 6HP26Z (AWD) all my adaptations are within spect ( got limits from ZF) My question is about Clutch "C"filling Pressure ZF limits -400/+350mbar my car currently reads -376mbar very close to -400mbar and i get a little hiccup on second gear which is when "C" clutch activates, my questions is based on your comment on the video that high minus value means pressure related problem! which i believe it falls under Valve body needing to be rebuilt correct me if im wrong, Or Solenoid malfunctioning but valve related problem correct?? thanks in advance for any help given 🙏