With the expense of this kit and this power steering box, what is the turn lock to lock? Do they tell you what the pounds are for the torsion bar used on the input side? It is splined to the inside of the input shaft, but extends down thru the valve head and two pins facing the valve head, turn it for fluid direction and assist. It has twist while you move the steering wheel. The thinner bar has more twist, this factor reflects on the steering wheel as road feel. It is more responsive to movement. The part that connects reacts from fluid pressure. Also, the lug you was thinking of cutting off, look at the housing from front to rear. It’s a hollow passage that fluid travels into the front of the gear box piston to push it back. By the way, the ratio is determined by the cut of the worm shaft. It matches the pistons cut groove the balls ride in. The fewer the number of grooves, the quicker the piston moves. It has 3 teeth cut to drive the pitman shaft. You has a Saginaw Model 800. I have a Saginaw Model 605 on the bench, cleaned and ready to assemble. Just having a hard time finding anyone who sells a pitman shaft seal kit. The huge difference is, this in not a recirculating ball system, just bolt on nut for a simple explanation. It has a round top, screw in front piston cover, but 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. So 1 1/4 turn from center. Everyone says; .”Oh those have more friction, they wear out quicker”! Well, this 1986 EL Camino SS has a 450HP with 4L60 and the RPO codes in the glove box shows Z65, which is Special Steering Performance (Manufactures Option) or basically what Saginaw offered for fast turning and high road feel. The box type use a pump with a pressure valve between 1,200 - 1,800 PSI. Rack & Pinions use 800 PSI as a pressure difference. Same pumps, different oriface sizes for the pressure release. Nice video and very good lighting. I hit like & subscribed. My last project is mine. A 1967 C10 long bed, locking diff, 308:1, 700R4 build by me to 600 HP for longevity, 2003 Tahoe 5.L engine with mild former cam, re-fresher (I have to check all), new TCG, gaskets and using the BCM for keyless entry, power windows, lights, horn & content theft control, lock, unlock, retained accessory power, audible warning for lights on, key off, turn signal on 1/2 mile, cruise & much more. Custom center console and leather buckets w/head rest, white and distressed medium brown leather. I sew as well with 2 machines. Using all GM stuff just hidden. TAC, PCM, BCM under center console and since two door, I have custom push buttons, spring loaded but on top of OEM door switch assemblies with serial data. Wired in a automatic temp gauge with sensor inside pan, temp cooling fan on trans, PCM controller cooling fans, trans cooler behind cab w/fan, A/C, custom fabricated heater box, etc. I can remove the heater core in 10 minutes or less with two screws on engine side. Done a lot. Tip; I have wood bed floor from treated lumber cut to fit & grooved. But soaked in used motor oil, tranny fluid, stain and mineral spirits. Soak the entire boards and ends. At 13, I bought my first vehicle for $150 when a Peanut Farmer was President. The 65 C10 Apache short bed was used to service earthmovers, cats, back hoes all equipment in the field. From 55 gallon drums, they pump by hand diesel, changed oil, new oil and the bed was soaked. The speedo was stuck at 264k, but 283 Cu. In. And power-glide trans. Red, chrome and white top & grill. At 13, you could drive to school or farm work. I grew up on a family farm. Never got an allowance so threw hay for neighbors, mowed grass $1 per yard, bought and sold Yamaha motorcycles each year and learned how to fix, weld and make stuff. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
That one bolt that you struggled with. You have to install it before you mount the pump. Grind some of the head or grind some room in the frame 👌 Good job though 👏
You're right, I completely missed that. Re-watching it wondering why I didn't catch that when I was installing it. Anyways thanks for the feedback and I've got some more videos of this build coming down the pike pretty soon, so stay tuned.
The 60 to 62 has a box frame .so the plates sit differently. Frame is about two inches thick. So the plates are both on the outer side. On the two inner bolts. One goes through the angle part of the frame ( This is the difficult one to drill through) and one actually needs a piece of pipe as a spacer to keep the plates parallel. Quite a bit more difficult than the 1963 to 1966 And the top bolt goes through the top half inch of the frame. Bolt is about a eight inch barely above the frame. Its crazy.
STOP. Don’t cut off that bolt !! Loosen the other bolts enough that the power steering gearbox pulls away from frame. Put the bolt in then tighten all bolts at once.
Nice ,vid,will a 68 power steering unit mount to that plate from CPP?
They sell shorter bolts at the hardware store.
With the expense of this kit and this power steering box, what is the turn lock to lock? Do they tell you what the pounds are for the torsion bar used on the input side? It is splined to the inside of the input shaft, but extends down thru the valve head and two pins facing the valve head, turn it for fluid direction and assist. It has twist while you move the steering wheel. The thinner bar has more twist, this factor reflects on the steering wheel as road feel. It is more responsive to movement. The part that connects reacts from fluid pressure.
Also, the lug you was thinking of cutting off, look at the housing from front to rear. It’s a hollow passage that fluid travels into the front of the gear box piston to push it back.
By the way, the ratio is determined by the cut of the worm shaft. It matches the pistons cut groove the balls ride in. The fewer the number of grooves, the quicker the piston moves. It has 3 teeth cut to drive the pitman shaft.
You has a Saginaw Model 800. I have a Saginaw Model 605 on the bench, cleaned and ready to assemble. Just having a hard time finding anyone who sells a pitman shaft seal kit. The huge difference is, this in not a recirculating ball system, just bolt on nut for a simple explanation. It has a round top, screw in front piston cover, but 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. So 1 1/4 turn from center. Everyone says; .”Oh those have more friction, they wear out quicker”! Well, this 1986 EL Camino SS has a 450HP with 4L60 and the RPO codes in the glove box shows Z65, which is Special Steering Performance (Manufactures Option) or basically what Saginaw offered for fast turning and high road feel.
The box type use a pump with a pressure valve between 1,200 - 1,800 PSI. Rack & Pinions use 800 PSI as a pressure difference. Same pumps, different oriface sizes for the pressure release. Nice video and very good lighting. I hit like & subscribed.
My last project is mine. A 1967 C10 long bed, locking diff, 308:1, 700R4 build by me to 600 HP for longevity, 2003 Tahoe 5.L engine with mild former cam, re-fresher (I have to check all), new TCG, gaskets and using the BCM for keyless entry, power windows, lights, horn & content theft control, lock, unlock, retained accessory power, audible warning for lights on, key off, turn signal on 1/2 mile, cruise & much more. Custom center console and leather buckets w/head rest, white and distressed medium brown leather. I sew as well with 2 machines. Using all GM stuff just hidden. TAC, PCM, BCM under center console and since two door, I have custom push buttons, spring loaded but on top of OEM door switch assemblies with serial data. Wired in a automatic temp gauge with sensor inside pan, temp cooling fan on trans, PCM controller cooling fans, trans cooler behind cab w/fan, A/C, custom fabricated heater box, etc. I can remove the heater core in 10 minutes or less with two screws on engine side. Done a lot.
Tip; I have wood bed floor from treated lumber cut to fit & grooved. But soaked in used motor oil, tranny fluid, stain and mineral spirits. Soak the entire boards and ends.
At 13, I bought my first vehicle for $150 when a Peanut Farmer was President. The 65 C10 Apache short bed was used to service earthmovers, cats, back hoes all equipment in the field. From 55 gallon drums, they pump by hand diesel, changed oil, new oil and the bed was soaked. The speedo was stuck at 264k, but 283 Cu. In. And power-glide trans. Red, chrome and white top & grill. At 13, you could drive to school or farm work. I grew up on a family farm. Never got an allowance so threw hay for neighbors, mowed grass $1 per yard, bought and sold Yamaha motorcycles each year and learned how to fix, weld and make stuff. ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
That one bolt that you struggled with.
You have to install it before you mount the pump. Grind some of the head or grind some room in the frame 👌
Good job though 👏
You're right, I completely missed that. Re-watching it wondering why I didn't catch that when I was installing it. Anyways thanks for the feedback and I've got some more videos of this build coming down the pike pretty soon, so stay tuned.
that bolt was too long to even start in that hole on or off the truck. easiest thing to do is get a shorter bolt.
The 60 to 62 has a box frame .so the plates sit differently. Frame is about two inches thick. So the plates are both on the outer side.
On the two inner bolts. One goes through the angle part of the frame ( This is the difficult one to drill through) and one actually needs a piece of pipe as a spacer to keep the plates parallel.
Quite a bit more difficult than the 1963 to 1966
And the top bolt goes through the top half inch of the frame. Bolt is about a eight inch barely above the frame.
Its crazy.
STOP. Don’t cut off that bolt !! Loosen the other bolts enough that the power steering gearbox pulls away from frame. Put the bolt in then tighten all bolts at once.
that bolt was too long to fit anyway...it needed to be cut.