Cheers mate - top tips as always. Thanks to you am finishing my second full house renovation, boarding, plastering.... totally love sponge floating, and what a difference using the speed skim....
Great vids, I've removed the airing cupboard and extended the 4th bedroom. Plastering completed today, coving and skirting tomorrow. Your vids have really helped me do a good job of the plaster work.
Another tip for sockets I do if your unable to get a half decent back box impression on the back of the board is if you have a spirit level anywhere between 1.8 to 2m is to line your level up with the sockets and Mark the height of your back box on your spirit level and then mark on the floor the length of the back box so when you put the board up place your level on the first mark on the floor and transfer your marks onto the board from your spirit level and repeat with the second mark on the floor, I tend to use this method if I have like 3 back boxes in one in one hit hope I've explained it well enough lol all the best
My method for cutting out for metal backboxes is to mark where the centre of the box will be, hang the board and use a trim router with a guidepoint bit to pierce the board, and run it around the box. It's the American way of doing it and don't see many UK folk do it. For the plastic boxes I just use a jabsaw or multitool
@@PlasteringForBeginners I tend to use a mixture of modern American methods, and traditional European methods. Gets the best of both worlds, we do plaster better, but the Americans do drywall better. I'm actually repairing a wall in my house, using bonding after I pulled off the blown plaster after watching your videos, and I feel like I've saved time, swearing and frustration already. Many thanks for making the time to do these videos!
I just re boarded a stud wall and plastered it for a client and looked excellent. Next day it had a hairline crack along a horizontal joint over the skim tape? The studs seemed solid and boards were well fixed. Never had this before. Ive read now that you should have a 3mm gap between the boards to allow for plaster to get into the joint but you don’t seem to do this and never heard this before. Is this the case? The house was also very hot so wondered if it was simply it dried out too quick? Thanks.
Hi Blaine, great video mate. Probably a daft question, how’d you get to plasterboard to a job? Do you take it in your own van or have it delivered to the job directly? I’m just looking at vans now mate so I thought I’d ask before picking one😂 Cheers dude 👍🏻
Hi mate, me and my brother inlaw are going to frame and board his block wall. Does it matter what timber we use to frame the wall? We are planning on using 25x50 treated lath or would u suggest something bigger?
Another very informative easy to follow video with great picture and sound quality.One question though if plastering over is it cardboard side in shiney side out?.
This is brilliant but I have a problem -my stud wall is Victorian, the joists are not the same distance apart and are not vertical. I am struggling to think how to proceeed. Any ideas please?
I ran into that problem a couple of times and got around it by adding a few those light steel 2 X 4s they sell for non-load bearing walls. I could cut it so that when it was turned flat, a tab would extend over the top and bottom plates and sit between the drywall and the wood. I just added them where the drywall panels met, unless there was an original stud there. If there is a stud at an angle, you can cut just enough of the C-channel to clear it and the part remaining will reinforce the part that's not backed with wood. I know some people don't like steel studs, but I find them a lot easier than cutting wood to an odd angle.
What would happen if the plasterboard had been fitted with the backing to the outside? A guy recently fitted it back to front on a stud wall he had built for us, but on the plasterer's advice we had to remove it and refit it the right way round before he skimmed the room. The guy who fitted it incorrectly said that it shouldn't make any difference. Who's right?
Safety first! - Keeping your limbs in front of a sharp tool is not a good idea. Blaine nearly hurt himself at 13:46. 13:52 is just asking for an injury. Apart from that - very informative as other videos.
Get those screws in a bit more lol our joiners drive me nuts by leaving the screws out to much and even leaving in screws that are into nothing nice 1 m8 👍👍👍and I know u shouldn't go into far with the screws 👍👍👍👍
Hi mate! I use square edge when I'm plastering and tapered if you're even filling the joints rather than plastering the whole board. Hope this makes sense and thanks for watching the videos - I really appreciate it pal 👍
Hi please can i ask a question, I am about to plasterboard a ceiling with 12.5 mm thickness plasterboard....do I need to leave a gap between each plasterboard joint. Thanks.
![เกิดใหม่ทั้งทีก็เป็นสไลม์ไปซะแล้ว ซีซั่น 3 - ตอนที่ 70 [ซับไทย]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IbBEqbse4Oo/mqdefault.jpg)
Cheers mate - top tips as always. Thanks to you am finishing my second full house renovation, boarding, plastering.... totally love sponge floating, and what a difference using the speed skim....
Thanks Chris! Its great to hear and well done on all your plastering! That's amazing mate, keep it up 👍
Great vids, I've removed the airing cupboard and extended the 4th bedroom. Plastering completed today, coving and skirting tomorrow. Your vids have really helped me do a good job of the plaster work.
Well done mate - great to hear you gave it a try. I'm glad it went well my friend!
Nice explanation, I enjoy your videos 👍. Thank you.
Cheers mate 👍
get that man a tool belt
This is another excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to show us.
Not a problem. Thank you for watching my friend!
I also use special bits to don't go too far with screws. They're very cheap and does the job.
Yes I know what you mean mate - they are very handy to be fair 👍
Screws or nails with glue? What's the best? Also vertical sheets or horizontal?
Another tip for sockets I do if your unable to get a half decent back box impression on the back of the board is if you have a spirit level anywhere between 1.8 to 2m is to line your level up with the sockets and Mark the height of your back box on your spirit level and then mark on the floor the length of the back box so when you put the board up place your level on the first mark on the floor and transfer your marks onto the board from your spirit level and repeat with the second mark on the floor, I tend to use this method if I have like 3 back boxes in one in one hit hope I've explained it well enough lol all the best
That's a great idea - thanks pal! I think I'll give that one a go! Cheers 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners yo youre Brilliant 👊🏾👳🏾♀️
Excellent tips. Thank you!
My method for cutting out for metal backboxes is to mark where the centre of the box will be, hang the board and use a trim router with a guidepoint bit to pierce the board, and run it around the box. It's the American way of doing it and don't see many UK folk do it. For the plastic boxes I just use a jabsaw or multitool
Good idea mate - I've seen that before actually and it looks really useful. Great hearing from you. Cheers pal 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners I tend to use a mixture of modern American methods, and traditional European methods. Gets the best of both worlds, we do plaster better, but the Americans do drywall better.
I'm actually repairing a wall in my house, using bonding after I pulled off the blown plaster after watching your videos, and I feel like I've saved time, swearing and frustration already. Many thanks for making the time to do these videos!
Thanks mate. Great videos.
Thanks mate!
I just re boarded a stud wall and plastered it for a client and looked excellent. Next day it had a hairline crack along a horizontal joint over the skim tape? The studs seemed solid and boards were well fixed. Never had this before. Ive read now that you should have a 3mm gap between the boards to allow for plaster to get into the joint but you don’t seem to do this and never heard this before. Is this the case? The house was also very hot so wondered if it was simply it dried out too quick? Thanks.
This was awesome, cheers dude.
for newbies the drywall screws take a different drill bit use a PH2 rather than pz2
Good work mate
Thanks mate 👍
Could you do a video of boarding a ceiling . Especially how to cut awkward angles
I'll see what I can do pal!
Hi Blaine, great video mate. Probably a daft question, how’d you get to plasterboard to a job? Do you take it in your own van or have it delivered to the job directly? I’m just looking at vans now mate so I thought I’d ask before picking one😂 Cheers dude 👍🏻
My work get them delivered to the job directly
Hi mate, me and my brother inlaw are going to frame and board his block wall. Does it matter what timber we use to frame the wall? We are planning on using 25x50 treated lath or would u suggest something bigger?
Thanks mate really helpfull
Another very informative easy to follow video with great picture and sound quality.One question though if plastering over is it cardboard side in shiney side out?.
Thank you mate! You plaster on the lighter side of the plasterboard pal 👍
This is brilliant but I have a problem -my stud wall is Victorian, the joists are not the same distance apart and are not vertical. I am struggling to think how to proceeed. Any ideas please?
I ran into that problem a couple of times and got around it by adding a few those light steel 2 X 4s they sell for non-load bearing walls. I could cut it so that when it was turned flat, a tab would extend over the top and bottom plates and sit between the drywall and the wood. I just added them where the drywall panels met, unless there was an original stud there. If there is a stud at an angle, you can cut just enough of the C-channel to clear it and the part remaining will reinforce the part that's not backed with wood. I know some people don't like steel studs, but I find them a lot easier than cutting wood to an odd angle.
Top man . Wicked 👊🏾👳🏾♀️
Cheers pal 👍
Great vid mate 👍
Cheers mate!
What would happen if the plasterboard had been fitted with the backing to the outside? A guy recently fitted it back to front on a stud wall he had built for us, but on the plasterer's advice we had to remove it and refit it the right way round before he skimmed the room. The guy who fitted it incorrectly said that it shouldn't make any difference. Who's right?
The guy who done it is a complete melon and it needs re done mate 😂 Ik 2 years late but idc
Good vids. Thanks
Safety first! - Keeping your limbs in front of a sharp tool is not a good idea. Blaine nearly hurt himself at 13:46.
13:52 is just asking for an injury.
Apart from that - very informative as other videos.
Don't you stagger the plasterboards? Thanks for your vids. Really enjoy them 👍
Yes you do matey. 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners nice one. Ive bought your course. Gona give it a try.
Brilliant! Thanks mate I really appreciate that 👍
Get those screws in a bit more lol our joiners drive me nuts by leaving the screws out to much and even leaving in screws that are into nothing nice 1 m8 👍👍👍and I know u shouldn't go into far with the screws 👍👍👍👍
Haha yeah there's nothing worse than finding a screw peaking in your plaster! Cheers mate and well done on your channel 👍
Do you you use square edge or tapered edge plasterboard? Iam just learning and have learned a lot from your channel. Thanks
Hi mate! I use square edge when I'm plastering and tapered if you're even filling the joints rather than plastering the whole board. Hope this makes sense and thanks for watching the videos - I really appreciate it pal 👍
Can you plaster straight on to this over the joints? Or do you need to tape them?
Fair the joints but then you’re good to go!!
How can open website for palasterborad ?
Hi mate is it the refina super flex trowel or super flex 2 trowel that you use.
Hi mate - it's the Superflex 2. Brilliant Trowel pal!
Some say stagger the boards but others fix them upright, which is better?
You should always put the boards on vertical .the way shown here is wrong
@@ronbessant142why?
👍👍👍
Hi please can i ask a question, I am about to plasterboard a ceiling with 12.5 mm thickness plasterboard....do I need to leave a gap between each plasterboard joint. Thanks.
No mate!! The closer the better my friend 👍
8:10 doesn't look like there's enough room for the next one on that left hand vertical - but magically better at 9:18! : )
Ha the magic of editing pal 💪
I did notice that - I presume you removed it off the wall then shaved some off with your cheese grater tool?
@@PlasteringForBeginners Did you cut with the stanley knife while fixed or did you take it off and do it? What would you say is the best way?
Got to say I’ve watched a few of your videos & there’s one thing for sure you have never worked on a price on site before
Haha I work on price mate 👍
You're not your