I can definitely second this, I've skimmed walls in the past (self taught) and I thought I'd try tape and jointing, as why not... but I'm currently mid way through this process, and It's way harder to do than skimming plaster. Also the cost of all the equipment to tape and joint ends up costing a small fortune before you know it, all the knives, sanders, expensive dry wall primers etc, way cheaper to buy a hawk and trowel, a pot of PVA and a couple of bags of plaster.
Not sure if you're still on here bud but I found your videos so helpful when building my Summer House. I use this now for filming all the videos for my own channel 👍
For hand sanding I can highly recommend the Mirka hand sander which you can attach to your vacuum. I've spent a lot of time repairing various bits of the walls in this house and wish I'd had it from the start. ~£38 but it's worth it for capturing all the dust which just goes everywhere.
Ordered one on this recommendation, arrived today and yes very impressed. Only sanded a few spots around the house (renovation) but some were 6” in diameter quite proud. None of the usual dust at all and even tested by sanding above a gloss black surface 👍. Only snag for some may be the hoover attachment as it’s a conical bung, I had to tape over a small area when attaching to my WD2 Karcher. I wish I had got this months ago.
A plasterer recommended it to me a few years back.. it's been invaluable when decorating. As M&M says, it needs some fettling to get it to connect properly to a karcher vac.
TAPE JOINTING. Put the tape in water and wait a minute, then use the tool to hold the tape into the compound at one end, stretch out the tape running the tool along it (blade at an angle) the tape will squish into the compound. A plasterer would take two days average, you will need to fill a little after them. Tape jointing is a lot of sanding down and you must have a breathing set on, the dust is a no no and will be everywhere even with a hoover attachment.
Hey Bud. Thanks for Video - Ordered a few items through your Links to AZ to help you. My tips - I used a Powered half moon sander with vacuum bag & also Wurth Mud premade (Extreme High quality) to speed up process which turned out as good as Full skim. I also sprayed some water on screw holes before filler to stop the blowouts afterwards. If you mini roller over joints with Johnson white Acrylic primer/undercoat = HQ finish for final paint coats ( 3/4 min recommended)
Great videos mate, I’ve been following all your series and am about to start my own build - inspired by your great work. Area cleared and should be about 6metres by 3.5 so should be fun. Love all the detail you’ve provided!!
Brave man tackling a room that size. I think your final conclusion is correct though, one wall, repair or very small room, do it yourself. Anything bigger, get a plasterer in for a skim. A few hundred quid and they will be done in a day (maybe 2 days for your size room) with a lot less dust/mess.
Ali, if you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living? I ask out of curiosity at how well you've learned the technical side of this stuff, it's very impressive!
You can go on plastering courses, they last about 3-4 days and it is easy to learn, you will find that in no time you will be plastering ceilings. It is just a manual skill, although it takes a little to learn it and be confident in handling the materials.
Having learn to plaster for this kind of thing, I am surprised tape and joint isn’t easier. One advantage for trades on a site is the dry time however, ie you can get paint on the wall a lot quicker because there is no plaster to dry out.
Alrite Ali! Looks like that sealer also acts as an identifier to where you've not painted with the emulsion white paint, handy! Hope all the other work is coming along well.
As a DIY'er you tend to always get the hang of this just as you're finishing your project. It takes a lot of time, but it's not hard, once you get the hang of it. I made the mistake of not laying a couple of paper strips shallow enough and that can show up when painting. The sealers we get in Denmark is very watery and mainly serves to fill porous materials like jointing compound or other types of cement based plaster. It's blue and stains like a motherf$#!, so be very careful not to get it anywhere it shouldn't be and take care to wipe off any runners, because they show up after painting.
That's very true. Doing it a second time would be a lot more economical with my time than the first! I wonder if the blue stuff is similar to the yellow stuff , why don't they just make it white!
The yellow stuff you used seemed more like paint, than what I used, which is very watery but dries up more like glue. The blue stuff barely sticks to the paper on the plasterboard, but seals the surface of the compound. It is very strange, that it needs to have color to it, but I don't suppose we're the first to wonder, so perhaps there is a good reason.
Most new builds use crappy paint but also a lot of the time they only do one thick coat which is bad because the moisture is absorbed by the plasterboard then the paint acts as a skin and only sits on the surface rather than bonding to the face, thus it flakes off after a few heat cycles of the central heating once the new owner moves in. Also i prefer using just a 12 inch knife for most of it as it prevents high spots and thus reducing the amount of sanding you have to do compared to using a 4-6 inch knife.
Great video. Just wondering if i put tape over screw heads? Also some of my gaps are maybe 10mm wide on ceiling, would i be able to polyfill these first before taping and filling
The main mistake is ur sanding between coats as you.make it all dusty , As yoy get better with ur first coat and ur second coat u don't need sanding till last last coat All yoy do it just scrape it all to get hight spots shaved it all and apply second/3rd coat. For fisrts time" tapers" I advise tonuse easy fill as you can sand it if any imperfections/but it is cost a bit more Whwn you get vetter use base coat(british gypsum red bags or any alternarives from B&q and after ready mix (preferably light sand british gypsum) for the sexond Nd 3rd coat Thank yoy
The time has come for me to contemplate skim vs tape and join (msyself) on one hand I want to have a go, on the other - I know once I start i'll wish i'd paid someone else xD
Great idea on having the furring strips on the inside. I think I'll do that with mine. I've gone from planning on building from timber to block to now out of cold-formed steel framing. How many more videos do you think you'll do to finish of this series?
Great watch throughout the build, two questions, as a guide for u values for walls does that amount of pir insulation meet regs, seems using u value calculators you would need way more insulation also including insulated plasterboard, secondly, anything going to stop a rat literally coming up through the floor ?
did you only use that Gyproc Easi-Fill mix throughout the whole taping and jointing? wanting to know as i’m planning to do a small garden room soon. cheers.
Hi Ali - Love the vids, given me the push to build a workshop in the garden. I have a question around ventilation. Do you have any vents in the garden house, through eves etc? Is it passive or say a fan? Many thank marc
Ah the trick was that if you sand it and find little divots or holes, just fill those in individually rather than doing a whole new layer. I won't win any plastering awards but it does the tjob. To find the holes more easily, use a torch at an angle to create shadows.
Good video you forgot your tip on feathering, also how / what do you use where plasterboard hits window - is there a j bead or just run to window edge and did u compund around that
Ah maybe I didn’t make it clear but it was the filling in the dimples only trick-instead of adding a whole new layer, just make good the previous one-not the proper way, but worked well for me! I plastered (compounded?) all the way to the window, then sealed, then painted. I thought about caulking around the edges but found it didn’t need it 👍
Nice job and great video, its a lot of work. I am looking at lining out a 14x18 garage for a pool table room but not sure if plasterboard or ply is a better choice??
I don't think there is a 'better' choice and rather it comes down to what you want it to look like and if you intend to hang a lot of things on the wall. if it's just a dart board and snooker cue rack then you can just go into the studs (if this is a timber frame?) so plasterboard is fine. The cheaper plasterboard may be off-set by the expense of a plasterer if you go down that route. Basically it's a matter of personal preference of appearance and use :)
@@AliDymock Thanks. have opted for 12mm ply, its more expensive but thats offset by needing less support work - this is a concrete slab build and the walls cant be drilled so battens have to be fixed with steel brackets onto the slab bolts, a real pain ;)
Luv the firring strip idea. By the way at 5.30 you mentioned you had a tip of using the jointing knife at an angle for feathering the edges. What was the tip as I didn't catch it. Great work by the way
Oh - instead of adding layer upon layer trying to get it smooth, sand off the high points, fill in the just the low spots, then sand again. A pro wouldn’t need to but it worked for me!
@@AliDymock great tip Ali. Many thanks. I am in two minds when it comes to skimming vs drylinig jointing compound . I hate dust and having to sand is horrible on the other hand you have a lot of flexibility when it comes to doing it yourself
@@AliDymock the main reason is speed, plaster can take a long time to dry out, which can push decorators back by a month before it's really dry enough to paint if the building isn't heated, whereas the styling method can be completed in a couple days, and painted very soon after.
See your point but in real world construction you don't tend to get 2 properties ready for a taping gang and they leave loads of patching which more often than not get finished with plaster. Ran a plastering and taping company for 20 years so speaking through experience. Tape and jointing is fine in commercial builds which aren't permanent and walls can be removed with more ease than a plastered wall but taping as its pros and cons. Incidentally I design and build garden recording studios now so not to far from your work.good videos so well done
Plaster on boards dry in the same time scale as 3 coats jointing. 2mm of skim on boards takes on average 2 to 3 days before a mist coat can be painted on. Taping compound (or the good ones) are air drying not mechanical drying so don't know where you get your info but your off the mark slightly
Yes I did. Ah man, it’s confusing to explain but essentially the garden room house belongs to my mum (and grandmother before that) who also happens to live in the next door house to it so I still go back regularly.
@@AliDymock oh wow. So you kind of get to keep it? What are your plans for it? Are the updates as they happen or footage of what you've already done before moving? ATB Rob
This video is less of a ' _how to_ ' as a ' _should you?_ '!
love it
I can definitely second this, I've skimmed walls in the past (self taught) and I thought I'd try tape and jointing, as why not... but I'm currently mid way through this process, and It's way harder to do than skimming plaster. Also the cost of all the equipment to tape and joint ends up costing a small fortune before you know it, all the knives, sanders, expensive dry wall primers etc, way cheaper to buy a hawk and trowel, a pot of PVA and a couple of bags of plaster.
Not sure if you're still on here bud but I found your videos so helpful when building my Summer House. I use this now for filming all the videos for my own channel 👍
This answered every question I had. Thanks and great job!
Well done. Saves all the moisture and in Florida that is all they do.
I've watched the whole series now but this one is comedy gold!
For hand sanding I can highly recommend the Mirka hand sander which you can attach to your vacuum. I've spent a lot of time repairing various bits of the walls in this house and wish I'd had it from the start. ~£38 but it's worth it for capturing all the dust which just goes everywhere.
Ah, I didn’t know that existed, great shout.
Ordered one on this recommendation, arrived today and yes very impressed. Only sanded a few spots around the house (renovation) but some were 6” in diameter quite proud. None of the usual dust at all and even tested by sanding above a gloss black surface 👍. Only snag for some may be the hoover attachment as it’s a conical bung, I had to tape over a small area when attaching to my WD2 Karcher. I wish I had got this months ago.
A plasterer recommended it to me a few years back.. it's been invaluable when decorating. As M&M says, it needs some fettling to get it to connect properly to a karcher vac.
An absolute life saver the Mirka hand sander
TAPE JOINTING. Put the tape in water and wait a minute, then use the tool to hold the tape into the compound at one end, stretch out the tape running the tool along it (blade at an angle) the tape will squish into the compound. A plasterer would take two days average, you will need to fill a little after them. Tape jointing is a lot of sanding down and you must have a breathing set on, the dust is a no no and will be everywhere even with a hoover attachment.
That's a nice trick and probably means the first coat doesn't need to be too sloppy 👍
I'm about to do this to my daughter's wall and was just what I needed to see! It's a small wall and just gonna have a go and see how it goes!
Excellent work all round. Thanks for all the information you provided during this it will come in useful very soon.
Hey Bud. Thanks for Video - Ordered a few items through your Links to AZ to help you. My tips - I used a Powered half moon sander with vacuum bag & also Wurth Mud premade (Extreme High quality) to speed up process which turned out as good as Full skim. I also sprayed some water on screw holes before filler to stop the blowouts afterwards. If you mini roller over joints with Johnson white Acrylic primer/undercoat = HQ finish for final paint coats ( 3/4 min recommended)
Oh here it is thanks
Great videos mate, I’ve been following all your series and am about to start my own build - inspired by your great work. Area cleared and should be about 6metres by 3.5 so should be fun. Love all the detail you’ve provided!!
Good size :) Hope we get some dry days soon!
Brave man tackling a room that size. I think your final conclusion is correct though, one wall, repair or very small room, do it yourself. Anything bigger, get a plasterer in for a skim. A few hundred quid and they will be done in a day (maybe 2 days for your size room) with a lot less dust/mess.
Ali, if you don't mind me asking, what do you do for a living? I ask out of curiosity at how well you've learned the technical side of this stuff, it's very impressive!
You can go on plastering courses, they last about 3-4 days and it is easy to learn, you will find that in no time you will be plastering ceilings. It is just a manual skill, although it takes a little to learn it and be confident in handling the materials.
Legendary timing!!! I start taping mine this week 👍😀
So informative and inspiring Ali, thank you.
Thanks Ian, I probably inspired most people to just get a plasterer in lol
I have a few t-shirts just like that one and can't bring myself to throw them away! They do the job for DIYing :-)
It’s perfectly fine as long as you don’t broadcast yourself on TH-cam wearing them heheh
Just had my garden room boarded and plastered, didn't fancy doing it myself, he was finished in 2 days!
A wise call 👍
Ali, I like the logo. It is most definitely a fact that it snows, when sanding compound.
👍all curtesy of three kind subscribers who designed, reiterated and animated it for me as a thank you for the vids 😀
See you in 2021! 😉
More great work. Having done this in the house can confirm the prep work involved.
😂😂😂The _plan_ is to get most of the build vids out this year. I've got to get the house in shape too so will be juggling the two!
Well done Ali, it’s looking great
Thanks Tony!
Tricky job alright, nice end result.
Having learn to plaster for this kind of thing, I am surprised tape and joint isn’t easier. One advantage for trades on a site is the dry time however, ie you can get paint on the wall a lot quicker because there is no plaster to dry out.
That's a great point I should have made in the video, the dry time is no more than a day or so.
Nice work Ali, it’s looking great. Love the new logo too! 😎👌
Good to know! I was worried it might come across as self-aggrandising.
Ali Dymock Don’t worry, you balanced that with the T shirt 😉
Looking great.
Alrite Ali! Looks like that sealer also acts as an identifier to where you've not painted with the emulsion white paint, handy! Hope all the other work is coming along well.
As a DIY'er you tend to always get the hang of this just as you're finishing your project. It takes a lot of time, but it's not hard, once you get the hang of it.
I made the mistake of not laying a couple of paper strips shallow enough and that can show up when painting.
The sealers we get in Denmark is very watery and mainly serves to fill porous materials like jointing compound or other types of cement based plaster. It's blue and stains like a motherf$#!, so be very careful not to get it anywhere it shouldn't be and take care to wipe off any runners, because they show up after painting.
That's very true. Doing it a second time would be a lot more economical with my time than the first! I wonder if the blue stuff is similar to the yellow stuff , why don't they just make it white!
The yellow stuff you used seemed more like paint, than what I used, which is very watery but dries up more like glue. The blue stuff barely sticks to the paper on the plasterboard, but seals the surface of the compound. It is very strange, that it needs to have color to it, but I don't suppose we're the first to wonder, so perhaps there is a good reason.
All great videos mate!
Awesome vids. Thanks! #👏👍👌 🇬🇧
Nice to see the garden room back, I’m hoping this means the cladding video is on the way at some point!
Yup! A few first but we’re getting there!
Most new builds use crappy paint but also a lot of the time they only do one thick coat which is bad because the moisture is absorbed by the plasterboard then the paint acts as a skin and only sits on the surface rather than bonding to the face, thus it flakes off after a few heat cycles of the central heating once the new owner moves in.
Also i prefer using just a 12 inch knife for most of it as it prevents high spots and thus reducing the amount of sanding you have to do compared to using a 4-6 inch knife.
Ahhh crap. I wish i knew about this instead of skimming! Great video!
It's certainly lesser known here in the UK but becoming more prevalent. It's ubiquitous in the US
@@AliDymock I actually did conversion of my own garage. sort of followed your instructions! so thanks and keep up :)
Great video. Just wondering if i put tape over screw heads? Also some of my gaps are maybe 10mm wide on ceiling, would i be able to polyfill these first before taping and filling
The main mistake is ur sanding between coats as you.make it all dusty ,
As yoy get better with ur first coat and ur second coat u don't need sanding till last last coat
All yoy do it just scrape it all to get hight spots shaved it all and apply second/3rd coat.
For fisrts time" tapers" I advise tonuse easy fill as you can sand it if any imperfections/but it is cost a bit more
Whwn you get vetter use base coat(british gypsum red bags or any alternarives from B&q and after ready mix (preferably light sand british gypsum) for the sexond Nd 3rd coat
Thank yoy
Thanks for the advise Sergei! Super helpful!
Loved this video, some good banta in to 😂
😁 I never know if my dry humour comes through 👍
Worth learning to plaster, but I wouldn't learning on your lovely project :)
The time has come for me to contemplate skim vs tape and join (msyself) on one hand I want to have a go, on the other - I know once I start i'll wish i'd paid someone else xD
Great idea on having the furring strips on the inside. I think I'll do that with mine.
I've gone from planning on building from timber to block to now out of cold-formed steel framing.
How many more videos do you think you'll do to finish of this series?
I reckon 7 more, but mostly shorter in length so easier to make :)
Is this insulation plasterboard?
Another great, informative video.... to DIY or get in a plasterer... hmmmm.
or avoid either and do pine boards or ply!
@@AliDymock hmmm, not sure how that would look, have you seen any examples?
Great watch throughout the build, two questions, as a guide for u values for walls does that amount of pir insulation meet regs, seems using u value calculators you would need way more insulation also including insulated plasterboard, secondly, anything going to stop a rat literally coming up through the floor ?
did you only use that Gyproc Easi-Fill mix throughout the whole taping and jointing? wanting to know as i’m planning to do a small garden room soon. cheers.
Hi Ali - Love the vids, given me the push to build a workshop in the garden. I have a question around ventilation. Do you have any vents in the garden house, through eves etc? Is it passive or say a fan? Many thank marc
Hi Marc, I have trickle vents in the windows which are passive but also have an extractor fan in the shower room.
Those moths are vicious.
Abi made me throw the t-shirt out :(
This dong Must’ve been at it for years on that build
thanks bro very helpful video I need to take this course how can find it plz
Where did you get the corner tape from?
Selco I think!
5:57 you never showed the little trick to feathering.... could really use this haha
Ah the trick was that if you sand it and find little divots or holes, just fill those in individually rather than doing a whole new layer. I won't win any plastering awards but it does the tjob. To find the holes more easily, use a torch at an angle to create shadows.
I was hoping this was going to be an easy job. Guess I was wrong 😂
Certainly doable, but trickier than it first appears
Good video you forgot your tip on feathering, also how / what do you use where plasterboard hits window - is there a j bead or just run to window edge and did u compund around that
Ah maybe I didn’t make it clear but it was the filling in the dimples only trick-instead of adding a whole new layer, just make good the previous one-not the proper way, but worked well for me!
I plastered (compounded?) all the way to the window, then sealed, then painted. I thought about caulking around the edges but found it didn’t need it 👍
Nice job and great video, its a lot of work. I am looking at lining out a 14x18 garage for a pool table room but not sure if plasterboard or ply is a better choice??
I don't think there is a 'better' choice and rather it comes down to what you want it to look like and if you intend to hang a lot of things on the wall. if it's just a dart board and snooker cue rack then you can just go into the studs (if this is a timber frame?) so plasterboard is fine. The cheaper plasterboard may be off-set by the expense of a plasterer if you go down that route. Basically it's a matter of personal preference of appearance and use :)
@@AliDymock Thanks. have opted for 12mm ply, its more expensive but thats offset by needing less support work - this is a concrete slab build and the walls cant be drilled so battens have to be fixed with steel brackets onto the slab bolts, a real pain ;)
MUD Is American saying please keep it British
Luv the firring strip idea. By the way at 5.30 you mentioned you had a tip of using the jointing knife at an angle for feathering the edges. What was the tip as I didn't catch it. Great work by the way
Oh - instead of adding layer upon layer trying to get it smooth, sand off the high points, fill in the just the low spots, then sand again. A pro wouldn’t need to but it worked for me!
@@AliDymock great tip Ali. Many thanks. I am in two minds when it comes to skimming vs drylinig jointing compound . I hate dust and having to sand is horrible on the other hand you have a lot of flexibility when it comes to doing it yourself
Another great video.. although the amout of ads is just over the top now.... 😒
Wow..for me this will be a mansion in the philippines. Not a garden room. 😭
Tie your laces!!
Tape and jointing cost more,3 vists plus sanding where as skimming 1 visit,
It does dry very quickly so could probably do at least 2 in a day. I wonder why so many new builds go with T&J, maybe economies of scale...
@@AliDymock the main reason is speed, plaster can take a long time to dry out, which can push decorators back by a month before it's really dry enough to paint if the building isn't heated, whereas the styling method can be completed in a couple days, and painted very soon after.
See your point but in real world construction you don't tend to get 2 properties ready for a taping gang and they leave loads of patching which more often than not get finished with plaster. Ran a plastering and taping company for 20 years so speaking through experience. Tape and jointing is fine in commercial builds which aren't permanent and walls can be removed with more ease than a plastered wall but taping as its pros and cons. Incidentally I design and build garden recording studios now so not to far from your work.good videos so well done
Plaster on boards dry in the same time scale as 3 coats jointing. 2mm of skim on boards takes on average 2 to 3 days before a mist coat can be painted on. Taping compound (or the good ones) are air drying not mechanical drying so don't know where you get your info but your off the mark slightly
Bro, didn't you move?? Welcome back m
Yes I did. Ah man, it’s confusing to explain but essentially the garden room house belongs to my mum (and grandmother before that) who also happens to live in the next door house to it so I still go back regularly.
@@AliDymock oh wow. So you kind of get to keep it? What are your plans for it? Are the updates as they happen or footage of what you've already done before moving? ATB Rob
Nice "garden" room
Ý