TRADE SECRETS/ How To Plaster OLD UNEVEN Walls (FLAT & PLUMB)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
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In this video, we’re going to show you how to get an old, uneven wall flat.
One of the trickiest parts to plastering is trying to get an existing wall completely flat. But what happens if you have sections that are 10mm, 15mm lower in thickness?? Well, I’m going to show you a trade secret for getting your wavey walls flat and completely plumb.
This involves creating something called “Screed Bars”. A lot of the screeders use them because it’s an extremely efficient way to create reference points to work from. It makes the whole process VERY easy and gives you a shot in getting your walls completely flat.
It’s definitely a trade secret and a must-watch for anyone who’s serious about plastering. If you like this video please like, subscribe and feel free to leave a comment.
I’d love to hear from you.
For more information in plastering visit our website below for more articles and" how-to videos”.
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Thanks for watching. I hope you enjoyed it.
I’ll see you on the next one.
Cheers,
Blaine
Hands down the most informative plastering videos on TH-cam
Thank you mate, that means a lot. Cheers!!
I am in this exact situation, plastering a bricked up doorway in a kitchen, you've made my life so much easier! cheers
Top bloke, your tutorials are honest and truthful. Excellent plasterer, keep up the excellent work and glad to see you are helping people out there that just want to learn.
Thank you mate. I really appreciate that 👍
Just started renovations on a house i purchased at auction, I've been watching all your TH-cam videos and I can honestly say they have learnt me so much im already plastering myself and ide say I'm a good 7out10 and still getting better thankyou for these videos
Thank goodness I watched this video as I'm going to be plastering an uneven wall this week (1 plasterboard was thinner than the rest) and I'm going to be setting up a screed bar in the corner. Brilliant video, perfect for beginners like me as well, thanks Blaine 👍
Glad it's helped my friend!! Hope it went well 🙂
Thanks for making this, really helpful! I’m am thinking of attempting this at my place before I tile. It’s a L-shaped space under and beside upper cabinets so hopefully I can get it right!
here in the US we use redwood strips 3/8 x 2"
skim the whole wall and set the strips into the mud on the highpoints plumb, let it set up, screed off using the strips, cut out the strips and fill, you can also use these to square up walls to each other, we do this to float showers for tile but same process applies to anything. ......once basecoat is square, flat and plumb you can finish it with anything.....coat of plaster, Tile, stone, marbel, etc
works really well and is basic and quick, tile setters been doing this forever in bathrooms.....walls are never square or plumb.....even if it was perfect when built they shift and move over time
Just wanted to say thanks for the videos.. I fit bathrooms and have picked up a few tips and tricks myself so your helping other people out, not just plasterers 👍
Great bit of work as usual.Donkeys years ago when I was starting out,this how I was taught.Obviously minus the laser.Set a screed properly and it doesn’t matter how big or how pissed the wall is,it comes out pucker
Great video I don't understand thumbs down idiots.Thank you for your time 👍.
Haha thanks matey. I really appreciate that 😊
used this exact method today and worked very well! thanks for all the videos and instruction they are very useful
very informative video, i work on alot of old crooked houses. one point however, you dont know that corner is square, you know the wall is plumb, but thats it.
this has helped me a lot with doing two walls that were are a weird angle around a window. Many thanks
Really helpful as my living room wall is in and out all over the place. You gave me the basic,got it Thanks.
That was made to look so easy. THANKS ALOT
Not a problem pal!!
Very unique video and very informative, I never would have thought to make screed bars. Cheers for the video Blaine👍🏼
Thanks for watching Luke - I really appreciate that. Cheers pal 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners done some solid work before and this seems like it would be super easy compared to constantly having to check for high and low spots
Another great video blane
So very informative I'm learning loads following you mate 👍
Cheers pal! Glad to hear it's helping
Love your vids. I would just glue some packers underneath the offcuts of plasterboard though? Might save quite a lot of time
Thank you great video .informative great
Really helpful, I took the tiles off a half-tiled wall in an 1800s house and pretty much all the plaster came with it leaving a rough white cement coat underneath, I’m only going to be wooden panelling on top so it’s hopefully a perfect wall to practice bonding plastering on with some 5mm screed bars
Great tips mate it's always good to learn something new 👍👍
Thanks mate!!
Hi Blaine, That's awesome your own mug for a brew!! Impressive video, that laser light is great. Hours of fun with that ! Great work you make it look so easy. Only a top tradesman can do that. xx
Ha thanks Carol, I really appreciate that! Hope you're well and safe. Look after yourself x
Love your channel and subscribed... question please,if I do a 1 coat plastering job on good condition painted white wall do I have to put some sort of gripping agent on the wall first ...cheers Nathan.
Great vid blain, did same thing on an old cottage wall but put battens vertically every metre then filled between them. Worked a treat.
That's the one mate!!
Watched this guys second video today. Brilliant way of explaining it.
Several good tips in there mate. The expanding foam idea is a winner. It’s like a modern take on the traditional dot and screed method. Enjoyed the vid as always 👍
Thanks mate, I really appreciate that!! Thank you for watching 👍
Great tip there using the foam and plasterboard to set up screeds to work off of. Great work man
Cheers mate! Glad to hear you found it useful!
Great video. Really good tip with the foam
Thank you for again for a great lesson very informative... uve taught me a loads about plastering just from watching your videos... cheers 👊
Thanks for watching pal and I'm glad it's helping you out my friend. Good luck with your plastering 👍
Thank you kind sir! Saved me thousands!!!
Another great video from my brother from another mother looking like a late night video working on the gaff look good once it’s done 👍
Hello brother, how's it going?? Ha yeah mate late nights and early mornings - hopefully it all pays off before it kills me 🤣 Great hearing from you Calvin, hope you're well my friend!
Plastering For Beginners I’m all good mate I’ll be back on the trowel this week got my own house to be getting on with landing and stairs 🤟
Awesome job, I was going to ask about different surfaces on one wall, how much cement did you put in with the bonding? as I find it takes ages to go off which is fine when you have a big area.
Genius! Thank you - really informative 👌👍
Excellent little tip with the foam blocks great idea
Thanks pal 👍
Hi blane, how do I hardwall on to lightweight blocks without it crazing ? Maybe I'm using the wrong product, many thanks
Hose the blocks down beforehand and you should be fine. Hardwall naturally crazes a little anyway but reducing the blocks with water beforehand helps massively 👍
Awesome video seeing your process. Do you have videos on how to get a good join between walls and ceiling? I have ceilings that have been re-plastered after having the old ones pulled down but I have these horrible gaps and even through the walls are going to be skimmed, at the moment they've been left a bit of a mess.
best video i found yet , talking through
Great video Blaine, very informative, cheers.
Great video, good advice, especially to do when trying to plaster old properties 👍
Thanks for watching matey. Cheers 👍
Great video Blaine. Thank you!
Just want I needed cheers a million B! Top bloke!
Not a problem matey! Good luck 👍
Nice video,
So how do you go about making sure all the walls are square to one another?
For example, you have one square corner but how would I go about making sure the opposing 2 corners to this corner are also square to this corner and walls flat ?
Hi, thanks for these videos they are brilliant for newbies like me, what method is best for plastering kitchen walls, tiles off, tile adhesive removed best I could, existing plaster, thanks. Also, where best to purchase that feather edge thanks
I have a situation much like this now. How would you tackle this when the wall would be sitting slightly proud of the door liner?
Great instructional video! I'm in USA , NYS. Do you know what products I can use for the bonding material and the PVA you mentioned. Also is the PVA a binder for the bonding coat. My project is having to go over a very uneven and out of plumb drywall, we call it sheet rock. Will your materials attach to sheetrock, or gypsum board? Thank you very much, Kevin
Great video blain I'm doing my kitchen at the moment so this video is great for me cheers . What about the right angle for corner cabinet I've made a big square from a sheet of ply. What do you think.
Hi mate, great hearing from you again! You can buy big squares which are really handy to have on a job but yeah that works pal 👍
Good video thanks for making it, but I just wondered why you didn't have to tape over the gaps by the plasterboard edges before you plastered across the area? ...Won't that show crack lines when it dries out?
First time plastering, been watching your videos for ages as “research” 😂When you say let the screed bar dry completely.. how long do I know if it’s dry if it has some cement in it? Can I plaster with bonding the same day as making the screed bar? Or do I need to leave it a day or two?
Great nicely explained
Brilliant video. Just a question. Do you need to key your screed bars just before they go off? I'm Just thinking about the final top coat of plaster and how it will "stick" to them. Many thanks mate
Thanks for the video. I have a part of the kitchen walls (plaster on breezeblocks) which goes in and was intended originally for a fridge to slip into it. It's supposed to be 80cm wide and 60 cm deep, from floor to ceiling. I wanted to buy a pre-build cabinet to slip into the hole but found that the walls are not 100% flat. In some places they are 79.5cm, 79.7 cm etc. How do I reduce the thickness of the plaster so that I can fit the 80cm cabinet into this hole? I thought of buying a heavy duty rotary sander with 80 hard discs.
Only thing o dislike about bonding is the fact that it absorbs moisture an water like a sponge. I avoid using it in bathroom and kitchens an will use hardwall instead. Bonding definitely has better capabilities of amalgamating different building fabrics as you have in this video, it will stick to anything 👍🏽
I totally agree mate. That's the biggest let down with Bonding but as you say, it sticks to everything! It's a top product to be fair!
Where you are using a straight edge horizontally; is it not necessary to put in two screed bars to ensure the bonding is plumb by the reveal? I know you mentioned about doing more, but as you didn't for this, you just guage it by eye and straight edge? Would corner beading be required?
Wait wait! Where did you get that giant skimming blade?!? Seems integral to the process....
THANKSSSS I have 20 feet of wall that are all over the place. I put up furring strips but I'd rather layer out with structolite
Not a problem... thanks for watching!
Do you need to PVA absolutely all the wall or just the exposed blocks?
Coming back to this Blaine, and after buying the City & Guilds plastering book, is this pretty much the old screed dot method I've read in the book? Though in the book they use small pieces of timber (dots) bedded in sand and cement.
Btw, fourth ever practice is coming up! Found a better wall in my old house to practise on now 😄
Solid information, end to end.
Thank you so much mate. I really appreciate that 😊
Clever stuff young man 👊
Thank you pal. Happy NY 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners 👊
Love your videos mate. Just as entertaining as watching Marvel movies at the cinema!
Thanks for the video really helpful. Can I ask though if you would plaster over this as in skin the whole wall or not. Cheers jon
I was really wondering how to do this on a completely crooked wall. I guess I will have to invest in a level-laser, that will speed up things for a whole wall at once.
Suppose you can d this for international rendering as well
Nice job mate
Use plaster screeds using wooden lathes length of feather edge
I used this method on one kitchen wall today worked well. The previous owner couldnt plaster board to save his life
That's good to hear mate! Haha I've met a few of them before 🤣
Amazing video
Thank you for the video! I'm learning a lot from you. Why wouldn't you use a plastering profile in this situation instead of the plates and foam?
I'll be honest...I didn't have any so this was the best best option 😂😂 Thank you for watching my friend. I really appreciate it!
Useful info as ever ty.
Thanks matey! I really appreciate that 👍
serious question how much is a tadge? I have a small piece to do under a window so probably need to make a bar about a third of what you have done. Cheers Blaine
Good man.
👍👍👍
Great video. I brought some BG bonding, however unlike what you were using, it was grey. I found it a pig to work with,
the stuff you're using looks much easier to work with.
It always used to be grey years ago, it’s no different if it’s pink or grey.
It just depends on the quarries where it's made but generally it's the same. That's a shame, I've always found it to be a gem to use. It's tough going if mixed too thick so it could have been that???
@@PlasteringForBeginners I think you're right and I probably mixed it too thick. I'll try again. Thanks for the reply.
Hi been watching some of your videos - reall good thanks - I have to fill an external doorway which has been bricked up with thermalite and breeze blocks. The doorway is in a corner and there is a gap to fill which varies from 50mm to 70mm (quite uneven) to bring it to the line of the existing wall. Would you recommend batten and plasterboard for this? Also would I lay the surface of the plasterboard back from the line of the wall by a few mm for finish coat?
Very helpful 👍 keep it up
Great tip. Thanks.
How thick can you build up bonding without it failing?
Could also use screed rails screwed into the wall if it was really really bad but the concept is the same, make some lines that are plumb and flat, use them to guide your straight edge and boom flat wall
Exactly that mate! Thanks for watching
Hi Blaine, how do you stop the plaster from dragging when levelling off? I keep my trowels wet and always pulls some plaster. Can never level off bang on even though the plaster is relatively wet. Amazing video by the way. I am your apprentice 👍😉
You don't want to leave the Bonding too long because it forms a skin when it's driying which disturbs the surface when ruling. Try and straighten the wall a bit earlier and it may help. Haha great stuff mate! Thank you for watching, I really appreciate it 👍
Hi Blaine another great video, I'm building my own extension and about to start the plastering 😱 which tools would you recommend bearing in mind that the chances of using again are low to never, can I use a good straight edge like a skirting board!! Any advice would be great
Buy spatulas (32” and a longer one if possible).
Costly but you could sell them on after and as a diyer they make a world of difference to my finish!
And watch LOTS of TH-cam!!!
Brilliant video.
Cheers matey!!
Thought you let one out on 16.53🤣🤣. To much cement in the bonding
Good video 💯👊🏾
Hahaha cheers pal 😂😂
Great video once again Blaine! I'm pretty good at bonding and skimming plaster, but I'm awful at getting a scratch coat of render nice and flat. I've only managed to render small walls before to a perfectly flat surface although I want to give it a go rendering the rear garden walls of the property. I've been putting it off because i dont want a wavy old finish. Would you recommend maybe fixing vertical battens to the wall, spaced the length of my straight edge, and rendering inbetween the battens? Then once its scratched and gone off, unscrew the battens and fill in between where the battens were fitted? That could give me a perfectly flat 1st scratch coat, but would filling in where i removed the battens be prone to cracking on the future, where its not all joined together sorta thing? Id be fine doing the 2nd float coat of render, its just the initial scratch coat im worried about because we have bricks poking here and there from repairs over the years (solid wall thats been bodged) lol. Appreciate it if you reply and keep up the banging videos mate, said it before but therr the simplest and most informative videos on the tube 😁
Hi mate! Thank you for your kind words my friend, I really appreciate that. It means a lot to me! That process would work pal - there's nothing wrong with what you've said there. It's not far from what were doing here really so it should work a treat. Let me know how it goes. Great hearing from you and thanks again for watching. Cheers 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners Hey mate, thanks for getting back to me about the render question! I really appreciate it 😁
Its because ive plastered tons but render, im still a noob at lol.
I reckon maybe a question and answer video would be awesome, if you answered viewers questions on a video. Kinda like a ask Blaine once in a while.
Anyway keep doing what you're doing mate, I've learnt so much from you and im sure many others have too! I always smash a like on them 👍🏼
Tack mesh on behind your battens and the channels you fill in afterwards will key to the mesh already joined to the render either side
Great video again buddy coz of you and your videos and the blue print ive taken on more plastering work . I quick question what laser lever you using and you going to be selling the mug anytime soon 👍🏼 keep up the amazing work buddy
Hello pal! Great hearing from you again, hope you're well. It's called Tracklife. I got it from Amazon and it's been brilliant for me - I think it was £90 but there's loads on Amazon now. Ha I'll look into getting some mugs sorted Mike 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners Im well thank you. Hope you and your good lady are too, congrats on your wonderful news . Thank you for the info , i have found one of the lasers at a great price too so will be getting one 👍🏼
Hi Blaine. Where can i get your merch from please? Thanks.
How do you make an old outside curved corner edge look new again with a corner bead and perfect 45 corner? Do you add more or take old off and start again?
love the packers, however what about a circular stairwell would you use just more packers at closer intervals???
Exactly that pal - but it’s a totally different ball game doing curves. Tricky business 👍
can i actually stick a straight wood plank for that beam line and then plaster over all? In a way make one sided frame use as a guide to start from?
Hi Blaine, If I was to sand and cement an interior wall with very little prior experience, could I do small sections at a time using "stop bead" from floor to ceiling to screed between each section? And Is it ok to just stick the bead on with blobs of gripfill to plumb them up? Thanks
Thanks man really helpful
Not a problem mate. Thanks for watching 👍
Is that also the finish coat or do you apply a finish coat to what you did here?
Could you make a video how to make a hidden door 🙂
I'll bear that in mind for the future mate. Hopefully a job comes up where the customer wants one!
Hi, I've pva'd the walls twice and applied 1st coat of Multi finish and Flattened with ox speedskim, I've then applied my 2nd coat and when I attempt to flatten the 2nd coat the plaster drags across the wall. I left it slightly longer to go off but then the plaster was literally drying in places but still dragging in others. I've never experienced this before and it didnt happen on a wall in the same room that had a bonding coat. Any advice would be great thanks.
If the wall is really dry and porous you need to soak it more with PVA. If you start applying from the top of the wall and keep applying in the same horizontal until the wall can’t take anymore and drips start running down it’s then you move down the wall, keep applying till it’s saturated then move down the wall a bit further. I’m a chippy myself but I work closely with a plasterer who gets all excited if a wall absorbs buckets of PVA. Hope that helps.
Decent job !Wish I followed you as a joiner some of the walls ive fitted skirting to have been bent as foook
What laser is that mate and how much
It's just from Amazon! I'll check later when I'm back at the gaff 👍
Great tip!
Can I use bonding for the inside walls in my garage don't want to go down the sand and cement route blane
we dont have this bonding stuff in australia :( how do you make it?
Hi Blaine great video mate. What would you use if the low points are to high for plaster board cut offs? Sorry if it’s a stupid question. Thanks in advance
You can use packers. You can buy them with multiple thicknesses which can be used for any situation. Thanks for watching pal 👍
Brilliant cheers Blaine.I assume you mean the plastic packers that window fitters use etc
Great video im still learning and getting there slowly just done a door way (I'm a qualified brickie ) so I have some knowledge i guess ......if you were say doing a 4 metre run to get a true wall from a to b using this method could you use line or stick to a long straight edge ? Say your featheredge was just 2 metres you'd have to be sure there wasn't a bow as you go across obvs being sure the second lot if plastering templates is not going to stick out too far ? Hope this makes sense of some sort
Hi mate... Great hearing from you! I would use a straight edge mate. I just found it's the easiest way to get the wall straight but it does take Practice. Just make sure your Straight edge is straight 😉
@@PlasteringForBeginners yeah that would help.ha so just a featheredge rather than a speed skim ? Cheers mate for your reply def getting that better finish these days done some tidying/patching last night pretty smooth I onoy own a tyxak 14" but hope to get a superflex soon fir finishing
Hi Blaine how long after you laid up your multi do you wait before you go over it with your speedskim?