I’ve got a yellowed coolant tank in my ‘87 560SL. Saw that same video and I was thinking of giving it a shot. You have saved me quite a bit of time! In the end, it’s not that big a deal. Thanks for posting this. 👍
This yellowing is probably due to the chemical reaction from brake fluid etc, rather than just yellowing from uv sun exposure etc, where things like hair bleach usually works very good. But just for fun, i would try (at least some small part) to use regular hair bleach paste with cellophane (so, sealed), putted on sun or under uv light, if that makes any change.
I think that is the same as hydrogen peroxide which I tried. The only thing that works is very high concentration hydrogen peroxide which is about the same cost as buying a new part!
It could be that the yellowing inside 'that' coolant header tank is rust, from someone having run the engine without antifreeze, and that sulfamic acid does remove rust staining effectively, as it seemed to on the outside of your brake reservoir. Interesting that the brake reservoir has mainly yellowed around the top 'rim' rather than inside, where it's exposed to brake fluid all the time. My 914 project uses the same part, and it hasn't really yellowed at all. It was pretty filthy, but just a strong degreaser got it back to looking pretty good. I have tried all sorts of things on other plastic 914 parts with rust stains, but not sulfamic acid yet, all unsuccessfully. I think I'll get some and give it a go.
Good point, I think you are right that Sulfamic acid works best on rust stains. My plastic looks like it has UV damage. Maybe it sat outside for a while before I got it. The one that came with my car just crumbled from UV damage. Best of luck with your experiment 👍
@@GarageTimeAutoResto My sulfamic acid arrived, so I mixed some to about pH 2 with near boiling water, and dropped in a rust stained 914 rear number plate light lens. Within 15 minutes the rust staining was gone. That's the first time I've easily removed rust staining from plastic without using anything abrasive. Citric acid doesn't seem to touch it.
In the video the guy rinse the reservoir with sulphamic acid activator, but he didn't list it in the comments. I did read online if you increase the temperature and decrease the PH of the water Sulphamic acid becames a bleaching agent.
I feel like the comet and scotch-bright took off a bit of the top layer and didn't change the color much. I did notice a yellow tinge on the scotch bright pad so it was doing something.
Hydrogen peroxide with UV devolves into water.. Do not shine UV or any light into hydrogen peroxide.. This is why it comes in a brown bottle.. to keep light out of it. The energy from light breaks the weak O bonds to form Hydrogen and Oxygen.. ( water and hydrogen basically).
I wonder if leaving it out in the sun (UV) would do anything. I've cleared up a lot of different yellow plastics that way, but I don't know if it would be applicable or advisable here (nothing I subjected to that was structural or integral to a critical system). Just a thought
I used highly concentrated Sufamic acid solution for my brake master reservoir. I left it in there almost a week and saw a bit of improvement. I then did the same thing with concentrated bleach solution and got even better results. Nothing like a brand new one or like that (fake) video though.
Hello Tom. Thanks for the informative video. I have a question about your trying hydrogen peroxide. How much oxy boost did you add to the 100% store bought peroxide and did you keep a UV light or sunshine on it while soaking? I read that makes a difference.
Hydrogen peroxide restores plastic yellowing when exposed in UV light, so if you put it in the hydrogen peroxide and leave it outside on sunlight in some hours time should be back to new condition. You should watch in my opinion 8bit guys techniques on retro-bright he restores old computers and is doing an excellent job he gets them from yellowed and almost destroyed back to new.
Hydrogen peroxide with UV devolves into water.. Do not shine UV or any light into hydrogen peroxide.. This is why it comes in a brown bottle.. to keep light out of it. The energy from light breaks the weak O bonds to form Hydrogen and Oxygen.. ( water and hydrogen basically)..
Unfortunately, I think it takes a really high concentration of hydrogen peroxide to make this work. I didn't want to invest almost $50 for it to maybe work..
I bought this one used because the one that came with my car was very brittle and yellow from sun. It crumbled just taking the cap off. The one in this video is sent brittle, but I have no idea how much sun exposure it had.
i tried that stuff to. but i noticed the markings on the White tank in the video was elswhere later on.. so. that video is Fake as fake can be xD .. but ill add. that acid of that video. reaaaally cleaned it up good.. plus the stuff is good to remove lime deposits in and around the house haha
My next two attempets will involve Liqued hydroperoxide.. at 12% strength .. mixed with oxiaction. and just add a UV light source for the night...... 2nd idea will involve the same stuff but on 60c degrees on a stove for 4 hours. mixed with waters..... ive seen. these "retrobright" mix work wonders on the ABS of vintage Apple and comodor computers.. but not sure how it would react with polyethylene (HDPE)
Hi, Have a look at "How to remove yellowing from old plastic (retrobright) the BEST method", produced by a youtuber called Odd Tinkering. I am just about to try cleaning a brake reservoir on one of my bikes. Regards
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I plan to follow the same layout. Just got the UV lights and have ordered the Bleach. I hope it works because the reservoir is hard to get hold of. or are just as bad as my own. Restoring the bike and Reservoir is clearly visible. At worse, at least I will have learned something new and this is what I like about "shed/garage tinkering". If you have email/facebook I will photo start and finish and will definitely let you know how it went. Regards. Dan
I’ve got a yellowed coolant tank in my ‘87 560SL. Saw that same video and I was thinking of giving it a shot. You have saved me quite a bit of time! In the end, it’s not that big a deal. Thanks for posting this. 👍
Cool
Good to know. My reservoir is also yellow. As long as it’s clean and not leaking- I will leave it alone. Thanks Tom.
👍
Great perseverance on methods. Kudos for improvement attained. Many thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! It's working fine in the car so far.
Thanks dude I wanted to clean my power steering reservoir. I'll go buy a new one.
Good idea
you should let it lay in 30-50% clean peroxide , it is very dangerous , but it is a heck of a lot better at getting yellowing gone in plastic
I agree, however it's harder to find and more expensive than the part.
Peroxide and uv light maybe? It's how people restore the original plastic color to old 80s electronic boxes and keyboards. But I really don't know
I tried this by putting the solution outside in direct sunlight. Perhaps stronger peroxide?
Thanks a lot. I also tried hard on the one I have. It never turns white again, so I bought a new one, it was about 70 LE. which is about 2 US $ :))
You got away cheap!
Thank you.... you saved my money and my time..
Cheers
NICE COUNTER DEBUNKING. LOOKS GOOD TO ME.
Thx, it's working well in the car👍
I'm fairly sure that when you use peroxide you need to put it in the sun or under uv light to activate it. It only works on certain plastic though.
I did the sun trick to no avail.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto yeah only seems to work on low quality decorative plastic.
This yellowing is probably due to the chemical reaction from brake fluid etc, rather than just yellowing from uv sun exposure etc, where things like hair bleach usually works very good. But just for fun, i would try (at least some small part) to use regular hair bleach paste with cellophane (so, sealed), putted on sun or under uv light, if that makes any change.
Ok, will do 😀
what about sulfamic acid first, then wash and then use hair bleech or bleech of some sort?
I think that is the same as hydrogen peroxide which I tried. The only thing that works is very high concentration hydrogen peroxide which is about the same cost as buying a new part!
It could be that the yellowing inside 'that' coolant header tank is rust, from someone having run the engine without antifreeze, and that sulfamic acid does remove rust staining effectively, as it seemed to on the outside of your brake reservoir. Interesting that the brake reservoir has mainly yellowed around the top 'rim' rather than inside, where it's exposed to brake fluid all the time. My 914 project uses the same part, and it hasn't really yellowed at all. It was pretty filthy, but just a strong degreaser got it back to looking pretty good. I have tried all sorts of things on other plastic 914 parts with rust stains, but not sulfamic acid yet, all unsuccessfully. I think I'll get some and give it a go.
Good point, I think you are right that Sulfamic acid works best on rust stains.
My plastic looks like it has UV damage. Maybe it sat outside for a while before I got it. The one that came with my car just crumbled from UV damage.
Best of luck with your experiment 👍
@@GarageTimeAutoResto My sulfamic acid arrived, so I mixed some to about pH 2 with near boiling water, and dropped in a rust stained 914 rear number plate light lens. Within 15 minutes the rust staining was gone. That's the first time I've easily removed rust staining from plastic without using anything abrasive. Citric acid doesn't seem to touch it.
@@richardjones38 Awesome! Now we know Sulfamic acid is best for rust!
In the video the guy rinse the reservoir with sulphamic acid activator, but he didn't list it in the comments. I did read online if you increase the temperature and decrease the PH of the water Sulphamic acid becames a bleaching agent.
i will check it :) i tried many ways but my plastic is still yellow.
Did you try a stronger H2O2 Solution and use UV-light?
I did use UV light for several days. Only 3% though
@@GarageTimeAutoResto hmmm is it possible that there is bromine as plasticizer in the plastic.
So the color is in the Material not on the surface 🤷♂️
I feel like the comet and scotch-bright took off a bit of the top layer and didn't change the color much. I did notice a yellow tinge on the scotch bright pad so it was doing something.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto sorry - I rushed to comment didn't notice this
Hydrogen peroxide with UV devolves into water.. Do not shine UV or any light into hydrogen peroxide.. This is why it comes in a brown bottle.. to keep light out of it. The energy from light breaks the weak O bonds to form Hydrogen and Oxygen.. ( water and hydrogen basically).
Yellow is the new white
Ha ha
👍
Thank you :)
Thank you very much you saved my time
Cool, thanks for watching👍
I wonder if leaving it out in the sun (UV) would do anything. I've cleared up a lot of different yellow plastics that way, but I don't know if it would be applicable or advisable here (nothing I subjected to that was structural or integral to a critical system). Just a thought
I didn’t say this but it was out in the sun while in H2O2 for two days. No lid so maybe the chemical evaporated?
I used highly concentrated Sufamic acid solution for my brake master reservoir. I left it in there almost a week and saw a bit of improvement. I then did the same thing with concentrated bleach solution and got even better results. Nothing like a brand new one or like that (fake) video though.
Thanks for reporting. I was going to try the high concentration stuff, but never got around to it.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I am going to try concentrated hydrogen peroxide and heat (160 degrees F) or time out in the sun next just for fun.
Hello Tom.
Thanks for the informative video.
I have a question about your trying hydrogen peroxide. How much oxy boost did you add to the 100% store bought peroxide and did you keep a UV light or sunshine on it while soaking? I read that makes a difference.
Hydrogen peroxide restores plastic yellowing when exposed in UV light, so if you put it in the hydrogen peroxide and leave it outside on sunlight in some hours time should be back to new condition. You should watch in my opinion 8bit guys techniques on retro-bright he restores old computers and is doing an excellent job he gets them from yellowed and almost destroyed back to new.
I tried this in this video. Didn't work.
You need to put it in a UV box with hydrogen peroxide 👍🏼
Hydrogen peroxide with UV devolves into water.. Do not shine UV or any light into hydrogen peroxide.. This is why it comes in a brown bottle.. to keep light out of it. The energy from light breaks the weak O bonds to form Hydrogen and Oxygen.. ( water and hydrogen basically)..
Nice video..
I have also tried the way you show here, inspiration also comes from the link you have set up. but none of them do not work
Unfortunately, I think it takes a really high concentration of hydrogen peroxide to make this work. I didn't want to invest almost $50 for it to maybe work..
hello my friend, just put sand with small gravel stones mixed with rust removers from clothes or vinegar and shake it and it will clean everything
Thanks for the tips!
Ok, to be absolutely fair, the first video he used an ultrasonic cleaner that had the acid in it. Not sure it's worth the retry though.
Right, however I doubt the ultrasonic cleaner is the manic bullet either.
I saw the same popular video you were referring. I think the video we saw may be, well .........
right, I think we were duped.
Was it exposed to the sun for years? Looks like uv yellowing
I bought this one used because the one that came with my car was very brittle and yellow from sun. It crumbled just taking the cap off.
The one in this video is sent brittle, but I have no idea how much sun exposure it had.
As long as it's holding up and doing its job...who cares right? Especially after giving it some new life and making it look good at the same time!
it looks fake Tom, definitely looks like a new tank in that video. #mythbusted
Yep
i tried that stuff to. but i noticed the markings on the White tank in the video was elswhere later on.. so. that video is Fake as fake can be xD .. but ill add. that acid of that video. reaaaally cleaned it up good.. plus the stuff is good to remove lime deposits in and around the house haha
My next two attempets will involve Liqued hydroperoxide.. at 12% strength .. mixed with oxiaction. and just add a UV light source for the night...... 2nd idea will involve the same stuff but on 60c degrees on a stove for 4 hours. mixed with waters..... ive seen. these "retrobright" mix work wonders on the ABS of vintage Apple and comodor computers.. but not sure how it would react with polyethylene (HDPE)
and i can see why you give it a try.... 91135501313 costs 107 dollars.. geezz..
Let me know how that goes!
Hi, Have a look at "How to remove yellowing from old plastic (retrobright) the BEST method", produced by a youtuber called Odd Tinkering. I am just about to try cleaning a brake reservoir on one of my bikes. Regards
Cool, report back how it works for you and I may try it.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Yea for sure. Cheers
I used sunlight for 20 hours and 4 % H2O2. Maybe 12% will work who knows?
Check that the plastic doesn't block UV Ray's.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I plan to follow the same layout. Just got the UV lights and have ordered the Bleach. I hope it works because the reservoir is hard to get hold of. or are just as bad as my own. Restoring the bike and Reservoir is clearly visible. At worse, at least I will have learned something new and this is what I like about "shed/garage tinkering". If you have email/facebook I will photo start and finish and will definitely let you know how it went. Regards. Dan
Thanks Dan please post your results on the Ahh Garage Time face book page
You do know the other video you refer to was faked.
I know now. I was suspicious, so I tried it myself.
Guess who's video gets more views? Truth or fake?
Make one or hire someone with 3d printer