About 28 or 29 years ago, I bought & had an identical crane installed in a factory in Jackson, TN. The erectors had a few tricks: 1.) They gave a mounting plan with 1 stud, 1.5 inches higher than the others & a specific supplier for all the studs. The longer stud allowed the erectors to "catch" the base then swivel the base into position. Very fast. Very accurate. Safe. 2.) They made the same type of frame to hold grout, but siliconed the 2x4s to the floor before pouring. I was concerned about floor appearance upon removal. They said you will never know where it was siliconed. I did for about 3 months, then the marks faded. 3.) They used an aggressive vibrator on top of the base to move the grout under the base. Surprising how well this trick worked. 4.) The lead guy watched the plumbbob swing once or twice, grabbed it, moved it to mid swing, and it would stay, then he took the measurement. He was fast.
Worked inspecting concrete operations for 47 years. I am glad you used 4000 mix. That is considered a somewhat high-early strength mix. In my state, that's the strength mix used to construct bridge decks. Also happy to hear you don't plan to load it for 28 days since you don't have a specimen to test. I wouldn't worry about the grout material. It is not structural. The bolts are the structural components. You should be fine! Congratulations. This will surely help in many ways in your shop. Thanks for the video.
Was just going to ask/comment -How does the grout really lend to any structural assistance since the whole load is sitting on the washers, nuts and bolts that were sunk into the new slab? Thank you for this mention/point.
22:56 Machinery Grout is also non-shrink so it does NOT get smaller after it cures. I've actually used expanding grout when the job called for it! :) The finished product with the grouting is PERFECT!! .. PLUS very professional too ... GREAT job Keith!!!
The Thames Barrier has a plumb bob in each of the piers with the weight sitting in a container of oil to damp out any movement. There is a travelling microscope to enable measurement of how far the pier moves/tilts when the gates are shut to stop the tide going upstream and preventing upstream flooding.
Setting a column is always fun. Nice job making it look easy. Groutting a base plate that large can be a challenge to get complete fill under the plate. If one pours from all four sides, it is possible to have an air pocket in the middle since there will be no place for any trapped air to escape. On the projects I have been involved, we pour from only one side and use a piece of metal strapping to slide under the plate from the opposite side of the plate to encourage the grout to flow all the way across. That way you know you have solid grout under the entire plate with no air pockets. Another help is to build the form taller than the top of the base pkate on three so the grout can buil up some as it flows under the plate. It makes it easier to wotk it under the plate with the metal strap..
Keith is a machinist, a mighty fine machinist at that. Sounds like that on your projects you were using millwrights. Keith might qualify as a millwright apprentice. LOL
Dead right Sean. You've obviously installed plenty of columns/machines. One thing I'd add is to use a cheap mastic to seal under the formwork to prevent leaks. That is usually sufficient to hold the forms in place if the grout depth is not more than about two inches.
Keith, for me adding a voiceover to a TH-cam video is absolutely fine. In fact some of my favorite TH-cam creators use voiceover throughout their video's. So in my opinion if adding voiceovers makes it easier for you to produce your video's or to add post recording clarity that's perfectly fine.
The next time someone tries this column erection task, choke the column with the hoisting strap. It will lift and pivot with virtually no slipping on the column. Use C clamps to capture the hoisting strap to the fork. Pivoting with the strap slightly higher than COG would probably allowed the loader tractor to guide it in place. I always had a forklift which was probably easier to use than a loader tractor. Our practice was to use wedge anchors which allowed drilling through the erected column. We never had to fight the in-place anchors. The easiest way to set the top tube in place on the erected column is to C clamp the sleeve to the bottom of the fork and lower it gently. This gives easy provision to seat the taper roller bearing without damage. Obviously, Keith's tractor loader wouldn't go high enough. This size class of forklifts allow you to flip the forks upside down which gains more lift and head clearance. I didn't see if this was possible on his tractor. Plumb is the proper term for for column "level". My practice was to use 2 magnet attached torpedo levels to set column plumb, simpler and faster! My experience is that no matter how carefully you measure and set the column plumb, the boom tends to swing to its low spot. SO, I never grouted until after tweaking the column plumb fully assembled. Since he CAN get his loader tractor in the shop, employing the C clamp method to attach the boom I beam would be advantageous. This will allow easy alignment of the first attachment bolt (use a line up pin), then unclamp the C clamp(s) and support the weight with the forks. The sleeve and boom will pivot and slide with ease to align the other bolts. A line up pin is now even more prudent! Since Keith doesn't have a scissor lift, it might be prudent to attach the trolley and hoist at ground level and C clamp (capture) the hoist unit before lifting the boom for attachment. Also attach the end stops at ground level too! As I commented in his foundation video, his foundation meets manufacturer specifications, but my experience determines that it is enormously unnecessary overkill. Good for Keith! But, now when he wants to rearrange his shop, his hoist relocation will be challenging. Our job hoist erection practice was to assemble the boom and the column sleeve. The C clamp the assembly to the forks as described and lower the entire assembly to the column. Head height and tractor lift limitations might have limited employing this method in this job unless flipping the forks upside down was an option with Keith's equipment.
❤ great job! Made several of these with premixed truck And many more with sack- crete. The verdict is in! Sack crete IS the best way. The truth about small run truck orders is you get the last delivery of the day or the left overs of whatever job was before yours. Its mystery mix. Let me tell you how frustrating it is to have a crew waiting all day for the truck. Good job Keith.
I see your pet mini tiger trying to steal the show again! I just watched the reconditioned band saw being set up and used on the owner's channel. I'm happy to see it in its new home. Congratulations on your new setup!
That jib crane will prove to be very handy when handling parts around your machinery. We had about 2 machines per jib crane in the machine shop I worked in. Great explanation of the process. The last step will probably welding on some stops to keep it from banging in to any support pillars for the shop.
I have set probably a hundred of those things and always dry packed the grout. Mix to a very thick, not pourable, consistency and pack it under the crane with boards until tight and trim the edges with a margin trowel. Ellis
Your generous friends who helped you build the concrete base are to be commended. It is probably better than professionally installed. New paint is going to be the icing on the cake.
Great video and installation of your jib column. You will be soooo happy to have this lifting device for use. Great job as always Keith, keep safe and enjoy. Thanks for sharing.
Looks great, good job Keith. Grouting is an interesting procedure. Concrete has a certain amount of shrinkage, when using a concrete based grout to have something that expands at the same rate is the goal. Back midcentury, my father's company would use a fine powered iron, (Embaco #5?) when added at the correct ratio, the expanding iron when runsting would stabilized the concrete to a neutral expansion. Then came the epoxy non shrinking grouts and things got easier. Don't know what is used today.
3:16 We often purposely roughen the surface when we know grout is gong between the slab and machinery .. Its actually BETTER a bit rough, as Keith indicated!
Slow and easy with a plan to guide you just can't be beat. When you layed out the base and nailed the pour I knew you will be able to get this nice big jib to work with no issues at all. With all things esp jib cranes they should stay where they are left. 400 lbs is a lot to handle by oneself and when in motion, You know all about that Arcamides fella, LOL. get 400 moving and it takes 400 to stop it. Great to see how well your plan came together. Onward Keith.
when the Guys installed one at my work they didn't use a level they used 2 digital magnetic Angle Finders .Took Longer to Unwrap it than than to set up ...whole set up took about 10 mins. Rechecked when boom Attached. Simples :D
*- Kieth, at **12:33**; you showed that wonderful Z-Arm Lifting Hook accessory for your Pump Jack.* *- I really like it, and thought to myself how obvious and clever...and why didn't I ever think of that.* *~ ~ ~ ~ ~* *- At **14:21**; You mention about "getting it level", meaning the flat base plate {in two directions}.* *- Bringing the mast to PLUMB [not level] {by dropping two plumb-lines ninety degrees apart} is what most carpenters would most probably think of as the easy way to do it.* *- Some might think ahead and rig a template on top of the mast, "zero-mark the bottom plate to match, string two plumb bobs, tape them to the mast, lift and set the whole thing all ready to wrench the three nuts up or down, and be done with it, all in short order. {much easier and far more accurate than guessing when a level bubble is "right-on" level}* *- Oh, wait, you did say all of that at **16:40**. Do'h!* *= A carpenter will set his ruler so the string rubs lightly against it as it swings and reads 1/2 way between the swing extremes. He will even slid his finger on the rule to stop the swing to settle things down quickly. Accuracy AND Precision is easy to get to if you just know how.* *- Eg.; Use sunlight reflecting off of staging pipe to determine straightness of the sections and use bailing wire {or other suitably strong strapping} if need be to quickly cinch them to "true-and-fair" when doing 1000 foot lifts up the side of whatever.*
I really like how you show the use of [old] traditional tools and methods of measurement that can often be more precise than all those new fancy electronic gadgets. Yes, you need a little bit of extra patience with those “old” tools. But as you explained so well, they often increase in precision with distance. A laser level was mentioned in some other comment. But I have read repeatedly that apparently most [commercial] laser levels have a tolerance of about ±⅛ inch over 10 feet. Which implies that over 40 feet you could be off by ±½ inch. Whereas with the plumb bob, your precision increases with the distance: If you measure to ±⅛ inch at 40 feet, your precision at 10 feet will be ±1/32 inch. You get a very similar situation with a water [hose] level: Your precision increases with distance. AND a VERY important advantage over laser levels is that you do NOT need line of sight. Again, you need two people and some patience to obtain the highest precision.
While the accuracy may seem over kill, when you take into account a load on the end of the I-Beam, any it is off could cause the beam to swing on its own. If accurately done, it should stay where ever you put the beam. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I was able to finally completely watch all the videos posted on your site this past weekend. So now with this video I'm up to date with all the content! Thanks for posting your videos on line for everyone to watch!
Hey Keith, although not the smoothest installation, you figured it out and got the job done. Great tips and basis on why using the plumb bob to check and adjust perpendicularity to the floor. That jib crane be be quite handy in the future. I look forward to the future video completing the installation, seeing it painted, and the shop put back in order. Another great video and thanks for sharing!
the last word on that this type of equipment is to lift a medium load and positionning anywhere the sweeping area: it should stay stable on that spot, It is the main difficulty when istalling a jib crane to have the rotation axis truly vertical. good installation excellent video
I dont miss pouring grout. Used to pour it into a funnel for glass pool fences, and holding the full bucket and slowly pouring for a couple of minutes uses muscles you don't even know you have. And then there's mixing it on a hot day without flushing the warm water out of the hose and it sets before you finish dumping the bag in 😂
Ver neat job trimming the grout, you don’t want a trip hazard there. I knew you’d paint the crane, you wouldn’t be able to live with the nicks and scratches!
This is the same way I set pole signs. Also, using the plumb bob makes the center of gravity plumb with the earth making for a more stable setting. When we're building a sign that has to hold up to 100+ mph winds, having a true center of gravity is essential. Great job! and the grout looks great! it's almost like you designed it that way 😁
@16:05 Forks go through rungs of ladder knocking David and the ladder over and fortunately "I did lose just a little bit of video, the last of this the camera shut off."
All's well that ends well! You will certainly make good use of the crane...looking forward to seeing its new color and it being put to use. Thanks for sharing.
Many years ago I worked at a secure facility in New Mexico doing contract management, I had a contract to install a foundation in a large machine shop to install a vertical axis mill with an eight foot dia. turntable. The contractor had to cut a 20 ft. x 20 ft. hole thru the 12 in. slab and dig down five ft. down then fill with two ft. of sand. The reinforcement three mats of #6 rebar twelve in. on center in three dimensions. The machine had over forty anchor points using Deco adjustable anchors. It was the most difficult concrete pour I have worked on.
I know it's too late for this pour, but putting a palm sander on the base would have acted as a vibrator and would have helped to spread out the grout. I've used mine in the past to help move/settle concrete in forms.
Keith should build a bolt-on rack for the column to hold all the lathe chucks at the spindle height. Make it easy to store and change chucks while keeping them out of the way.
Use C/G clamps clamped on to the forks to locate the lifting straps and stop them sliding back towards the rear in future. It’s a lot safer and would have allowed you to probably lift straight in one go. Depending on the tilt angle of your forks it might have been easier to place them under the base of the crane whilst it was laid down, clamp or bolt it to them with a couple of pieces of steel plate with some holes in them and some decent bolts, then just lift the whole thing upright.
For those criticizing the concrete work, it isn't like this is an industrial application where it will be loaded all day every day. This is a small job shop/hobby shop. Also for those critics, if you have been watching this channel any time at all, you know Keith always does things to a very high standard, and probably well beyond what it needs.
I’ve built two 500 lb cap jibs and have just bolted them straight to the floor with no problem. Wedge anchors and all. I’m sure the heavier capacity jibs could use a proper footing.
That concrete pad looks excellent. No sweat on the grinding. There is a safety factor of at least 10x in that footing. The force that jib crane will put on it will not even tickle it let alone stress it. Also- Dont discount the "carpenters levels" ... .I can get that thing within a few thou with a decent level. My stabila levels will get that thing perfectly plumb.
9:28 at this point? Some short pieces of the right diameter thin wall electrical conduit are really handy .. you can slide them through the foot plate holes onto the anchous. BUT? that generally something you have laying around a multi trade work site :) More than in the machine shop :) I see your helper has also handled a machinery pinch bar a few times! Perfect form there :)
One reason not to level to the column is the axis of the pivot may not be true to the column itself. The real way to tell level will be once you have the boom on if it wants to drift.
About 28 or 29 years ago, I bought & had an identical crane installed in a factory in Jackson, TN. The erectors had a few tricks:
1.) They gave a mounting plan with 1 stud, 1.5 inches higher than the others & a specific supplier for all the studs. The longer stud allowed the erectors to "catch" the base then swivel the base into position. Very fast. Very accurate. Safe.
2.) They made the same type of frame to hold grout, but siliconed the 2x4s to the floor before pouring. I was concerned about floor appearance upon removal. They said you will never know where it was siliconed. I did for about 3 months, then the marks faded.
3.) They used an aggressive vibrator on top of the base to move the grout under the base. Surprising how well this trick worked.
4.) The lead guy watched the plumbbob swing once or twice, grabbed it, moved it to mid swing, and it would stay, then he took the measurement. He was fast.
To help stabilise the plumb bob you can lower it into a bucket of water and then take your measurements off the string,
Never heard of that but sounds cool 😊
Or a cup of oil to really slow it down.
These days, I would have jumped straight to the laser.
Actually it is called a dash pot. Ray.
If you have one.@@markbernier8434
Worked inspecting concrete operations for 47 years. I am glad you used 4000 mix. That is considered a somewhat high-early strength mix. In my state, that's the strength mix used to construct bridge decks. Also happy to hear you don't plan to load it for 28 days since you don't have a specimen to test. I wouldn't worry about the grout material. It is not structural. The bolts are the structural components. You should be fine! Congratulations. This will surely help in many ways in your shop. Thanks for the video.
Was just going to ask/comment -How does the grout really lend to any structural assistance since the whole load is sitting on the washers, nuts and bolts that were sunk into the new slab? Thank you for this mention/point.
22:56 Machinery Grout is also non-shrink so it does NOT get smaller after it cures. I've actually used expanding grout when the job called for it! :)
The finished product with the grouting is PERFECT!! .. PLUS very professional too ... GREAT job Keith!!!
The Thames Barrier has a plumb bob in each of the piers with the weight sitting in a container of oil to damp out any movement. There is a travelling microscope to enable measurement of how far the pier moves/tilts when the gates are shut to stop the tide going upstream and preventing upstream flooding.
Setting a column is always fun. Nice job making it look easy.
Groutting a base plate that large can be a challenge to get complete fill under the plate. If one pours from all four sides, it is possible to have an air pocket in the middle since there will be no place for any trapped air to escape. On the projects I have been involved, we pour from only one side and use a piece of metal strapping to slide under the plate from the opposite side of the plate to encourage the grout to flow all the way across. That way you know you have solid grout under the entire plate with no air pockets. Another help is to build the form taller than the top of the base pkate on three so the grout can buil up some as it flows under the plate. It makes it easier to wotk it under the plate with the metal strap..
Keith is a machinist, a mighty fine machinist at that. Sounds like that on your projects you were using millwrights. Keith might qualify as a millwright apprentice. LOL
Dead right Sean. You've obviously installed plenty of columns/machines. One thing I'd add is to use a cheap mastic to seal under the formwork to prevent leaks. That is usually sufficient to hold the forms in place if the grout depth is not more than about two inches.
The old trick is to use a pail of water to hang the plumb bob in and measure string.
Does the water in the pail make the plumb bob slow down faster? If so clever tip.
The Egyptains did know what they were doing.
Once again Ginger the Shop inspector makes sure the job is done correctly and up to OSHA Standards. Good Job Keith.
I was wondering when you'd get around to repainting the crane! And with the final CAT scan you're nearly complete. Nice job.
Keith, for me adding a voiceover to a TH-cam video is absolutely fine.
In fact some of my favorite TH-cam creators use voiceover throughout their video's.
So in my opinion if adding voiceovers makes it easier for you to produce your video's or to add post recording clarity that's perfectly fine.
I agree - the voice over is a great way to help explain a complicated job without fussing with a predefined script for the camera.
The next time someone tries this column erection task, choke the column with the hoisting strap. It will lift and pivot with virtually no slipping on the column. Use C clamps to capture the hoisting strap to the fork.
Pivoting with the strap slightly higher than COG would probably allowed the loader tractor to guide it in place. I always had a forklift which was probably easier to use than a loader tractor. Our practice was to use wedge anchors which allowed drilling through the erected column. We never had to fight the in-place anchors.
The easiest way to set the top tube in place on the erected column is to C clamp the sleeve to the bottom of the fork and lower it gently. This gives easy provision to seat the taper roller bearing without damage. Obviously, Keith's tractor loader wouldn't go high enough. This size class of forklifts allow you to flip the forks upside down which gains more lift and head clearance. I didn't see if this was possible on his tractor.
Plumb is the proper term for for column "level".
My practice was to use 2 magnet attached torpedo levels to set column plumb, simpler and faster! My experience is that no matter how carefully you measure and set the column plumb, the boom tends to swing to its low spot. SO, I never grouted until after tweaking the column plumb fully assembled.
Since he CAN get his loader tractor in the shop, employing the C clamp method to attach the boom I beam would be advantageous. This will allow easy alignment of the first attachment bolt (use a line up pin), then unclamp the C clamp(s) and support the weight with the forks. The sleeve and boom will pivot and slide with ease to align the other bolts. A line up pin is now even more prudent!
Since Keith doesn't have a scissor lift, it might be prudent to attach the trolley and hoist at ground level and C clamp (capture) the hoist unit before lifting the boom for attachment. Also attach the end stops at ground level too!
As I commented in his foundation video, his foundation meets manufacturer specifications, but my experience determines that it is enormously unnecessary overkill. Good for Keith! But, now when he wants to rearrange his shop, his hoist relocation will be challenging.
Our job hoist erection practice was to assemble the boom and the column sleeve. The C clamp the assembly to the forks as described and lower the entire assembly to the column. Head height and tractor lift limitations might have limited employing this method in this job unless flipping the forks upside down was an option with Keith's equipment.
Ahhh nice to sit back with morning coffee and see someone else work hard and get something awesome done. Nice work Keith!
At that first leak on your grout pour, my first thought was " He needs some Babbit sealer on that side".
❤ great job! Made several of these with premixed truck And many more with sack- crete. The verdict is in! Sack crete IS the best way. The truth about small run truck orders is you get the last delivery of the day or the left overs of whatever job was before yours. Its mystery mix. Let me tell you how frustrating it is to have a crew waiting all day for the truck. Good job Keith.
I see your pet mini tiger trying to steal the show again!
I just watched the reconditioned band saw being set up and used on the owner's channel. I'm happy to see it in its new home.
Congratulations on your new setup!
That jib crane will prove to be very handy when handling parts around your machinery. We had about 2 machines per jib crane in the machine shop I worked in. Great explanation of the process. The last step will probably welding on some stops to keep it from banging in to any support pillars for the shop.
Glad to hear your going to paint it 😊
I have set probably a hundred of those things and always dry packed the grout. Mix to a very thick, not pourable, consistency and pack it under the crane with boards until tight and trim the edges with a margin trowel. Ellis
Your generous friends who helped you build the concrete base are to be commended. It is probably better than professionally installed. New paint is going to be the icing on the cake.
Great video and installation of your jib column. You will be soooo happy to have this lifting device for use. Great job as always Keith, keep safe and enjoy.
Thanks for sharing.
Looks great, good job Keith. Grouting is an interesting procedure. Concrete has a certain amount of shrinkage, when using a concrete based grout to have something that expands at the same rate is the goal. Back midcentury, my father's company would use a fine powered iron, (Embaco #5?) when added at the correct ratio, the expanding iron when runsting would stabilized the concrete to a neutral expansion.
Then came the epoxy non shrinking grouts and things got easier. Don't know what is used today.
3:16 We often purposely roughen the surface when we know grout is gong between the slab and machinery .. Its actually BETTER a bit rough, as Keith indicated!
Slow and easy with a plan to guide you just can't be beat. When you layed out the base and nailed the pour I knew you will be able to get this nice big jib to work with no issues at all. With all things esp jib cranes they should stay where they are left. 400 lbs is a lot to handle by oneself and when in motion, You know all about that Arcamides fella, LOL. get 400 moving and it takes 400 to stop it. Great to see how well your plan came together. Onward Keith.
Pre wettung the slab will stop pad from sucking the water out of grout and help it to flow
we use these all the time in my work place. i would love to build one in my home shop! nice work kieth!
I actually like the voiceover format while watching the whole thing in fast mode.
Looking Great, Keith. Thanks
when the Guys installed one at my work they didn't use a level they used 2 digital magnetic Angle Finders .Took Longer to Unwrap it than than to set up ...whole set up took about 10 mins. Rechecked when boom Attached. Simples :D
I can relate to precussive repairs. Remember it is not just hitting it, it is know when, where, and how hard that makes it a precussive repair!
*- Kieth, at **12:33**; you showed that wonderful Z-Arm Lifting Hook accessory for your Pump Jack.*
*- I really like it, and thought to myself how obvious and clever...and why didn't I ever think of that.*
*~ ~ ~ ~ ~*
*- At **14:21**; You mention about "getting it level", meaning the flat base plate {in two directions}.*
*- Bringing the mast to PLUMB [not level] {by dropping two plumb-lines ninety degrees apart} is what most carpenters would most probably think of as the easy way to do it.*
*- Some might think ahead and rig a template on top of the mast, "zero-mark the bottom plate to match, string two plumb bobs, tape them to the mast, lift and set the whole thing all ready to wrench the three nuts up or down, and be done with it, all in short order. {much easier and far more accurate than guessing when a level bubble is "right-on" level}*
*- Oh, wait, you did say all of that at **16:40**. Do'h!*
*= A carpenter will set his ruler so the string rubs lightly against it as it swings and reads 1/2 way between the swing extremes. He will even slid his finger on the rule to stop the swing to settle things down quickly. Accuracy AND Precision is easy to get to if you just know how.*
*- Eg.; Use sunlight reflecting off of staging pipe to determine straightness of the sections and use bailing wire {or other suitably strong strapping} if need be to quickly cinch them to "true-and-fair" when doing 1000 foot lifts up the side of whatever.*
Every video is appreciated, you do a fantastic job recording your projects and I thank you for sharing Sir
I really like how you show the use of [old] traditional tools and methods of measurement that can often be more precise than all those new fancy electronic gadgets. Yes, you need a little bit of extra patience with those “old” tools. But as you explained so well, they often increase in precision with distance.
A laser level was mentioned in some other comment. But I have read repeatedly that apparently most [commercial] laser levels have a tolerance of about ±⅛ inch over 10 feet. Which implies that over 40 feet you could be off by ±½ inch. Whereas with the plumb bob, your precision increases with the distance: If you measure to ±⅛ inch at 40 feet, your precision at 10 feet will be ±1/32 inch.
You get a very similar situation with a water [hose] level: Your precision increases with distance. AND a VERY important advantage over laser levels is that you do NOT need line of sight. Again, you need two people and some patience to obtain the highest precision.
Good morning Keith! It turned out great. Have a good week.
Amazing you do all kinds of things and good luck with your retirement
Thanks for your time putting these videos out Keith. Really enjoy them. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇬🇧🇺🇸👏👏👏👏👏
While the accuracy may seem over kill, when you take into account a load on the end of the I-Beam, any it is off could cause the beam to swing on its own. If accurately done, it should stay where ever you put the beam. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I was able to finally completely watch all the videos posted on your site this past weekend. So now with this video I'm up to date with all the content! Thanks for posting your videos on line for everyone to watch!
Thank you Keith!
Great camera work and continuity
Thanks Keith
I have been looking forward to this; I have never seen anything done like this before. Wow! It is standing right up! TM long time viewer
Hey Keith, although not the smoothest installation, you figured it out and got the job done. Great tips and basis on why using the plumb bob to check and adjust perpendicularity to the floor. That jib crane be be quite handy in the future. I look forward to the future video completing the installation, seeing it painted, and the shop put back in order. Another great video and thanks for sharing!
"Tiger", thxs for sharing...
Excellent job, Keith. That will be a real boon to the shop.
the last word on that this type of equipment is to lift a medium load and positionning anywhere the sweeping area: it should stay stable on that spot,
It is the main difficulty when istalling a jib crane to have the rotation axis truly vertical.
good installation
excellent video
I dont miss pouring grout. Used to pour it into a funnel for glass pool fences, and holding the full bucket and slowly pouring for a couple of minutes uses muscles you don't even know you have. And then there's mixing it on a hot day without flushing the warm water out of the hose and it sets before you finish dumping the bag in 😂
Awesome work!
Ver neat job trimming the grout, you don’t want a trip hazard there. I knew you’d paint the crane, you wouldn’t be able to live with the nicks and scratches!
Great job! Grout is always messy!
Shoutout to the cat 🐈!
As Richard Brunning (of Binky fame) says, "Overkill is my second favourite kind of kill" 😁
We've got a bracket for that!
@@moebeddah2288 but not Ep39....
This is the same way I set pole signs. Also, using the plumb bob makes the center of gravity plumb with the earth making for a more stable setting. When we're building a sign that has to hold up to 100+ mph winds, having a true center of gravity is essential. Great job! and the grout looks great! it's almost like you designed it that way 😁
Thanks Keith, so interesting as usual…
Tricky job nicely done.
@16:05 Forks go through rungs of ladder knocking David and the ladder over and fortunately "I did lose just a little bit of video, the last of this the camera shut off."
I'm so glad to see this one posted! Great job on the concrete part too!
Looks like it's going to work out great for your usage in the shop.
Nice job. Well done !
Very interesting! Thank you Keith!!
All's well that ends well!
You will certainly make good use of the crane...looking forward to seeing its new color and it being put to use. Thanks for sharing.
Many years ago I worked at a secure facility in New Mexico doing contract management, I had a contract to install a foundation in a large machine shop to install a vertical axis mill with an eight foot dia. turntable. The contractor had to cut a 20 ft. x 20 ft. hole thru the 12 in. slab and dig down five ft. down then fill with two ft. of sand. The reinforcement three mats of #6 rebar twelve in. on center in three dimensions. The machine had over forty anchor points using Deco adjustable anchors. It was the most difficult concrete pour I have worked on.
excellent work and a ton of patience
But, was that plumb bob scraped in and calibrated? :-)
Another excellent video. Great job. Looking up that column to see what kind of bearing it swivels on. Great stuff.
3 places opposite the adjustment nuts would best I would think.😊
Thank you for another great video. Cheers
Great stuff Keith 👏👏👏👏👏👍
Nice work Keith 👍
Thanks Keith for the video. Nice job, looking forward to see the it working.
Thanks for sharing
I know it's too late for this pour, but putting a palm sander on the base would have acted as a vibrator and would have helped to spread out the grout.
I've used mine in the past to help move/settle concrete in forms.
Agreed. Or a hammer drill on (only) hammer. It acts like a vibrating poker.
Thank you for sharing.🙂🙂
Good job well done boys,👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice crane. I like it. And is Ginger approved, also. Thanks a lot!
Great work Keith! That is such an amazing shop! It rivals Abom’s and Norm Abrams of New Yankee vintage!
Great you have all the equipment to handle that
Keith should build a bolt-on rack for the column to hold all the lathe chucks at the spindle height. Make it easy to store and change chucks while keeping them out of the way.
Well done, a bit of a fight but excellent results.
Use C/G clamps clamped on to the forks to locate the lifting straps and stop them sliding back towards the rear in future.
It’s a lot safer and would have allowed you to probably lift straight in one go.
Depending on the tilt angle of your forks it might have been easier to place them under the base of the crane whilst it was laid down, clamp or bolt it to them with a couple of pieces of steel plate with some holes in them and some decent bolts, then just lift the whole thing upright.
For those criticizing the concrete work, it isn't like this is an industrial application where it will be loaded all day every day. This is a small job shop/hobby shop. Also for those critics, if you have been watching this channel any time at all, you know Keith always does things to a very high standard, and probably well beyond what it needs.
I’ve built two 500 lb cap jibs and have just bolted them straight to the floor with no problem. Wedge anchors and all. I’m sure the heavier capacity jibs could use a proper footing.
good job well done keith!
looks nice
I love the overkill part. I am the same way. Say it proudly.
Nice work as usual Keith
Thank you for sharing. Very nice.👍
That concrete pad looks excellent. No sweat on the grinding. There is a safety factor of at least 10x in that footing. The force that jib crane will put on it will not even tickle it let alone stress it. Also- Dont discount the "carpenters levels" ... .I can get that thing within a few thou with a decent level. My stabila levels will get that thing perfectly plumb.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Looking good.....Thanks Keith....
Old F-4 Phantom ll fighter jet Pilot Shoe🇺🇸
Nicely done
21:40 1/16" over 20 feet is just about 0.1 Degrees!!! (one tenth of one degree!)
You can flip forks on the tractor and get a little higher.
Damping the slab under the grout helps
Because the slab quickly sucks out the water from the grout mix messing with it reducing flow etc.
9:28 at this point? Some short pieces of the right diameter thin wall electrical conduit are really handy .. you can slide them through the foot plate holes onto the anchous. BUT? that generally something you have laying around a multi trade work site :) More than in the machine shop :)
I see your helper has also handled a machinery pinch bar a few times! Perfect form there :)
@01:35 One week, and an additional 28 days are 5 weeks.
This makes sense, on average it takes 6 weeks for concrete to fully cure.👴👌😉
Thanks for this video. I kept trying to figure (using your ladders) how high you are working. That is a pretty big tube. some real challenges
Hi Keith: I am a professional engineer and it looks fine to me. Well done!
Good morning
Very nice. I guess getting the perfect plumb is to prevent the arm from swinging to a low point on its own?
One reason not to level to the column is the axis of the pivot may not be true to the column itself. The real way to tell level will be once you have the boom on if it wants to drift.