Gorbel 2 Ton Jib Crane Installation Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2022
- This will be a 2 part series on the installation of my Gorbel 2 ton jib crane. I have a previous video on installing the Mast so be sure to check that out. This video will consist of setting the rotating head assembly onto the mast. We'll also get started on the boom but follow up with Part 2 of the install to see the completion.
Mast install video: • Shop Space Update 6: S...
Grouting the mast base: • Grouting the Gorbel Ji...
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You actually had a rather powerful tool in your arsenal and may have not even known it. Since you shoot on GoPros, you could connect to one directly over wifi, and use it as a third eye. Put the camera where you want to watch and just use your phone as a monitor for it.
Thank you for that idea! May get to use it one day.
Done that a few times before, works great!
I think Adam has the most experts in his comment section. From mathematicians engineers metallurgists and all around know it all’s
Don't forget the safety -karens- experts...
They can sure work those keyboards!
Hose clamps for a large retaining bolt like that instead of cotter pins is definitely different.
cotter pins, lynch pins...etc! I find it hard to believe Adam Di don't didn't pop 2 holes in the end of that and put a proper pin thru it! 😳
@@Wydglide the hose clamps seems so chineseum in design.
@@jadesluv I was looking for this word to describe it. Thanks 🤝
That anti-lift pin is a HUGE life saver. I worked for a trailer manufacturer years ago, we had a JBL crane like this one. One day while using it to move a wheel base, we hit the weight limit of the crane when a brake cylinder shifted and dropped just enough to lock the crane from turning any further. Even lowering it, it was completely locked up. We had to use a forklift to lift the end of the arm just enough to take the weight off and get it to turn so we could replace the bearing and collet. That pin kept us from pulling it completely off the center pin. So thank goodness someone actually thought up that idea, such a simple and easy add on can really save you a huge headache.
@This Ole Sign Guy, a loose fitting pin and hose clamps aren't as simple or effective as a simple threaded shaft and castellated locknut...... and pin........ well, you know what I mean!
I don’t know, I have a little problem with the hose clamps. I would have thought they would have used a set up like the winch and cotter pins. Good job putting the crane together by yourself. Love your videos.
I thought that was incredibly tacky lol
Some greases don't mix well with other kinds of greases.
I've been a counterbalance Forklift Operator since I was 20 years old ,,, and got to say Adam has a very good touch on the machine! . props!
Hi Adam, always look forward tall your videos. If you look in the Gorbel manual it says to divide the boom length "in inches" by 300 to get the correct shim thickness. That calculates to .600" thick. not .060".
Doesn't matter if you take the length in inches or feet and divide by 300 - the answer is still 0.6", not 0.05"
@@scottwright6822 You're right. 0.05 feet is 0.6 inches.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony Hopefully Adam spots this.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony Cheers - Adam's not so hot on maths !
0.6" isn't the thickness of the shim its the distance above level they want measured at the end of the boom. He should have lifted the boom up to that height and measured for the needed shim thickness. The book also said to use a steel shim. Hopefully he fixes it.
I’m surprised they made that pin hold with hose clamps. Seems like an obvious application for a couple cotter pins, which would be more secure and cost less.
Probably a you have got to design a safety pin and you have 1$ budget to make it
Painted bearing races that's awesome ....
When you have loose bearing just add a layer of paint haha
Yeah what on earth are they thinking, either just grease it from factory, or let the end user put the race in themselves
@@garretr4488
Hi,
I think the bearing is actually fitted, to make sure it did fit the bore, due to weld distortion (machined then welded in position and not taken out hence the paint), The stub shaft was machined to size and no welding, a nice fit to tolerance for the customer to see when assembling. I am surprised with no seal under the bearing and no top bearing bearing to take any thrust.
I might have been tempted to mask the logos and markings on the yellow parts and respray the whole unit with a fresh top coat of yellow rust paint. Nice and safe one man install Adam. I appreciate your calm and thoughtful "What if?" approach to this kind of task. 👍
Looking good Adam. Nice and easy install.
About the shrink wrap, one can use a heat gun, for removing paint, and just blow over the plastic real quick. Makes it easy peasy to remove. Ask me how I know 😅 greetings from the Netherlands, Mark
I know exactly how you feel , I put up a 10,000 lbs car lift up in my garage by myself , using a backhoe and a 14' old wooden ladder , with the side extensions the sides ad cross member are at 14' , the best part is the backhoe has a slight leak down so you'd have to plan and account for that ! Love it great video thanks for sharing !
never had a doubt you’d get that fixture on the bearings on one try. 👍👍👊👊
I feel like that safety pin was a cheap out on the manufacturers part, two holes on the ends with washers and cotter pins would have been a more elegant solution
Adam, As a former employee of Sunbelt Rental. I can tell you this, Ive probably picked up more of those fork lifts with the back rack removed than with them on. I had so many that I had a rachet and socket in the truck with me to reattach them. I even kept extra nuts and bolts for those that where removed and they didn't keep the hardware on the machine.
Good job Adam thanks for bring us along.
Those rental outfits sell there equipment after so many hours and you might get an attractive price for a lift truck. They might also have training for lift truck operators, which can be very informative.
Dear Adam,
Thank you for filming for us all, your well thought out, and considered execution of the crane assembly.
To do such a job and at the same time consider camera angles and all the other details entailed in ensuring your audience has the best possible view too, is really kind and a much appreciated burden that you carry lightly.
I feel compelled though, to say my toes curled when watching Abbey’s hand and(beautiful) fingers apparently at risk when she helped you pilot the beam into position!
I hope it was just the camera angle….
Kindest regards from a long term admirer of your videos
I live in Adams Wisconsin. I worked in a potato farm. We had a jib crane like this. We used it all the time. You will be very happy with it.
A hose clamp to secure the pin 🤣
What a budget engineered solution. Just use proper splitpens or circlips.
Snap rings would require grooves and that will reduce shaft strength. I agree, the hose clamps seem cheap. A split shaft collar was my first thought.
Looks like homebrew workaround for a forgotten detail...
this may be the only channel I've seen that can incorporate photos into the timeline... and make it work
I gotta say the only thing missing when you spun the head for the first time was you saying "Wheee". 🤣🤣
I appreciate a good manual and labelled parts so much.
Not that it matters in this application, but remember “Never saddle a dead horse”. Never install the cable clamp saddle on the dead end side. Practice where it doesn’t matter make it intuitive when it does. LOVE your content.
Get some!
Nice to see the crane finally coming together! Congrats!
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
When you get ready to scrub the floor get a buffing machine with scrubbing pads and a scrub brush for it , spray the floor with your cleaning compound and let it sit and soak in for a while before scrubbing , this should make enough of difference a getting the black marks off the floor . Nice job installing the crane
Your fork-lift piloting and maneuvering is exemplary.
I am surprised how well that tow motor runs without a propane tank strapped to it's back. Ron W4BIN
Great job, working by yourself can be both a curse and a blessing but you came out on top. Looking forward to part 2 . . .
Congratulations Adam. Been looking at that pillar every shop update wishing it was completed. Power on and can't wait to see its 1st lift.
Thanks for bringing us along.
That stretch wrap uses a coating of a vegetable oil to make it cling. If left in the sun the oil polymerises in the same way that linseed oil does. That's why it sticks
a little trick i use when im doing a job by myself (and need an extra set of eyes) i facetime with myself on 2 phones, it works pretty well!
I ve not been on your channel for over a year or so and its good to see you are doing good and growing with your activities. Well..I do not know much about machining but the way you show pleasure in what you do, the skill and knowledge you have its hard to fail...i think...unless you make an absolute mess of your finances
Hey Adan, good tip when using paint stripper. Immediately after applying the paint stripper, cover it with clingfilm to prevent it from drying out. It's much more effective that way.
Can’t wait to see part 2, awesome job. Especially by your self, wish I was there to help.
Good work Adam. I know that you aren't a forklift operator, by trade, but you NAILED IT!
So exciting to see this going together!
would have thought an "R" clip or a split pin would be better than some hose clamps????
Yep.
Its hard to tell if that pin were to rotate down and the hose clamps tear up that top bearing seal. Drilling the pin for cotter pins and washers would have been better, or groove the pin for E-clips
Yeah, even a pair of hitch pins would have been adequate.
Morning Adam. That was awesome watching you put it all together 👍🏻🇬🇧
It's all coming together nicely!
Coming together and looking sharp!
Great aim while flying blind too. Got a good chuckle out of that one.
For as well thought out the rest of the crane is, it's odd that they used hose clamps in place of cotter pins. That's exactly what cotter pins are for.
A simple and satisfactory solution with the hose clamps !
A long bolt with locknut on it would have done too!
Отличная видеосъемка проделанной работы. Приятно смотреть за процессом.
Thank you Adam very excited for your new shop watching from South Africa
Nailed it first try. Super impressive
I felt like I wanted to jump in my computer and come out on your end and help you. Nice job Adam. On to part two.
I always lightly rough the paint surface with scotchbrite or something smoother in your case before applying any remover, helps immensely and i rarely need more than one application of remover
I have been waiting so long ... as Im sure you have as well, to see this come together.
looks awesome. Now I have to wait to see it in action.
Live preview in the GoPro App can help in those blind situations.
It did occur to me!
Cripes... That was SO FUN !!!
I've been waiting for this installation forever! Lol
Getting it done mate, exciting times 😀 I am totally with you on doing things like this on our own, sure sometimes a second person can be useful.. but with something like this I acctully quite enjoy taking my time, getting it exactly how I want it and most importantly enjoying the job. I've read a few of the comments about how you assembled the crane.. knowing how precise you are with everything I'm sure your crane is probably one of the most accurate ever installed!
Adam - one trick for seeing through your gopro is to use the phone app and "live stream" it. You can literally see the gopro's view on the phone screen, great for exactly what you were doing.
Looking so good! Let's go on to congratulate You (and watch the next episode)!
Those scissor lifts love to rock and roll,but in 30 years in the trades I never saw one tip just from shaking it.
With a crane like that, you know you’ve made it 😀
I really happy for you, Adam. Maybe even a little jealous 😁
as a forklift driver I need to say, its Cheating to have a camera up there helping you ;). Just kidding its nice to see your new shop coming together. Have a great week Adam.
Adam, At time 2:42, you bolted the electrical top entry collector 180 degrees offset. The place where the electric wire comes out of the collector and heads towards the trolley should point to the same side as you installed the tag line brackets. The way you installed it, the electrical wire has to loop over the top of the crane to be connected. The wire will eventually wear through as it moves back and forth on the edge of the I-Beam.
Good work. Stay safe. Looking forward for the next episode
Great job working alone.
Sweet! I have been waiting for this!!
Bonjour
Vôtre vidéo super bonne maitrise dans la manutention des pièces et l'installation du palans en bonne ordre
Bonne journée de France
15' x 12= 180 inches. Divide by 300 is .6" for the shim. Your beam may droop a bit.
It also says "at the tip of span" which I would take to mean you want the END of the boom (15' out) to be 0.6" higher than mounting point. I'm guessing that would require a laser or water level... 0.050" shim may actually be pretty close.
@@Saturn49YT True that!
I really love that green forklift
onward and upward, so far so good. really looking good. fred
Yup surprise the manufacturer didn't weld lift tabs, pins or angle iron on both sides at it's center of gravity to squeeze in the folks on. Might be something to do later for future removal.🤔👍
That crane is engineered and certified, welding or drilling it without engineer approval and signoff is no go if you want insurance or lawsuits to cover a failure.
@@12345NoNamesLeft did you look at the shitty welds on the top of the attachment? Certified? Maybe certified crap.
Love the birds eye perspective; you should consider bying some Wi-Fi security camera and mount it up high. On the crane or in the roof. With permanent power and the stream captured on a accessible hard drive, you can let it stay up there. Permanently. And would always have some overview photography to blend into your videos.
Congratulations on your successful partial installment. Great camera work, especially working alone. I’m pretty sure lacquer thinner would have taken that shrink wrap right off without damaging the paint. It’s my go-to cleaner for almost everything.
ADAM, BETTER TO BE LUCKY THAN GOOD SOME DAYS, GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO...SEE YOU NEXT TIME...
A good stripper works in just a couple minutes. I'm glad you showed the evapo-rust paint remover. I almost bought some. Now I know not to. Who has a hour to wait for it to work. Well, besides you.
Works in minutes and she gets the job done. They aren't very cost effective though.
Glad you got the scissor lift, instead of trying to work off a ladder. Looks good.
Nice job bud. Great video.
So lucky on the alignment 👌
Sometimes it just hard to get good help😆
Keep up the good work
The scissor lift where I used to work had a open top metal box welded to it that held a cheap tool set. I don't even want to think about how many extra trips back down that saved.
Been waiting for this.
Finally! This video I have been waiting for some time! Really exellent work on your own. Your'e great, man! :)
I'd put an Aluminum Foil dust cap over that entire pivot SHAFT.? Well done Sir.!
Adam to remove the shrink wrap I would suggest a sticker eraser. A sticker eraser is a device automotive body shops use to remover bumper stickers. They are a rubber disc that fits in the end of a drill and is used like a buffing disc.
Adam this is correct. It will remove heavy stickers from automotive pain without harming the paint. th-cam.com/video/VYS-vNmnrcE/w-d-xo.html at 3:20 to see this in action.
Years ago, at a place I'm no longer associated with, we would flip the forks when faced with a clearance issue such as that.
Looks great from my house 👍🏼
We will forgive less than perfect sheet goods work cuz your machining is so purty!!!
Okay, I'll be "That Guy", I'm glad I could help!!
Hi Adam. I managed to pause the video and read the formula for the shim stock and it says span length in inches / 300 which equates to 0.6 inches not 0.050. Which will give you the correct preload for deflection on the jib to keep it level
It is also not the shim thickness, but the amount by which the tip of the boom should be elevated above level.
So you think a 5/8” shim is correct?! 🤦🏻
@@danglebals8432 no I think the instructions need to be read and fully understood as mentioned above the measurement is the height above level at the beam end and needs shims trialing and measuring none of which Adam did he just made a 0.050 shim and assumed it was correct which it might be but not without measuring will he know
@@danglebals8432 Certainly not. There is no formula for the shim thickness--Adam needs to try different thicknesses of shim until the boom is at the right slope, which is about 5/8" higher at the tip than at the root.
If your using a gopro if you use the app you can get a live view from the camera
Just a piece of advise, and if you are like me you don’t want advise. Never shut off a hydraulic machine. You don’t know how well how well the hydraulics are maintained. I’ve done it and had it to free fall. I have been in construction for 18 years and counting. That’s why I bought my own equipment. Because I maintained it. And I trust myself.
Well carbon monoxide poisoning is a good reason to do shut down, so I guess you are damned if you do and you are damned if you don’t.
@@bertbergers9171 Forklift is running on batteries.
Nice work! The man lift did seem sketchy- I guess people just get used to them. Great job manuevering with the forklift!
18:38 In addition to removing the Headache Rack, you should spin the yellow piece 90 degrees so the back of the part is facing you.
That way, you don't need to pivot the forklift in order to line up the part to the column, you can just drive straight in and be able to see if your centered side-side from the driver's seat...
Nice job Adam.
I think I’d have cut a couple of grooves for a c clip ;hose clamps look hokie .
Nice work als always, Adam.
Good job Adam!
I don't know if it would have given enough headroom or not, but one of my tricks when doing a sling lift like you are doing is to tip the forks back. Headache rack doesn't go up, but fork tips do! Have to be careful that straps don't slide back though... (usually I have a jib crane mounted for these type of jobs).
26:33 .. Not trying to be critical, as he crane company seems top notch!! .. BUT?? I got to wonder why they didn't include a 50 cent shim (or one of each if it needs a different one due to variables) seems kind weird? What do you all think?
Good job!
I think you need to re-read the boom leveling instructions. First, L/300 is not the thickness of the shim. It's the amount by which the tip of the boom should be higher than the root. Second, L is in inches, not feet, so L/300 is 0.60", not 0.050".
So the instructions are trying to say, "add shims as needed until the boom is tilted upwards at the tip by 0.6" I think I would be inclined to set that with a level--it's about 1.7 degrees by my calculation.
I agree - the shim was incorrectly calculated.
The instructions also specify a steel shim, likely because a brass shim will deform under load.
Correction, it's 0.2 degrees, or 12 minutes. Forgot a parentheses in my calculation.
We used Steel shims for leveling I beams in new homes with basements.
Maybe he calculated the overall length vs the supported length as a proportion to calculate the shim vs the required 0.6”?
I am a metric guy so I won’t even start checking this from over here.
I remember when they replaced a jib crane at a job I had years ago! They took out one the size you have and put a BIG one in! Dug out concrete 8' by 8' and poured three feet thick! BTW consider an air hoist for it. They are much easier to spot and are more adjustable than the electrics. I used to sell them as well as Bridge Cranes (well we bought them from a company that installed them).
Damn. 8x8x3' in concrete is around 14 tons. What was that crane rated at (if you recall)? I guess knowing the length of the boom would be important too to know if the concrete provides enough ballast to resist tipping over.
I have an air hoist. Nothing to hang it from though !
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony I don't recall the rating (was 30 years ago). I DO recall the process they went through to do the pour. Guys dug down through the existing slab, carefully avoiding the rebar, so the new pour was tied to the surrounding slab. That thing wasn't going anywhere!
Good job