I gave u a thumbs up for "yoink your engine out" lol. Hope this works for you. I wanted to do an electric swap but after figuring the numbers I chose a 25hp diesel and am definitely pleased but I'm a cruiser so when I'm out, I avoid marinas and boatyard like the plague. Just yesterday I had to motor 35 miles. Gotta love BC winds 😆✌🏻
Great video sir! I really like your format, lots of pics of the project, quality of content and build, and consistent narration volume. I'm gonna check out your ROV diving vids. Keep up the good work.
I'm trying to buy an Elco electric inboard for my Catalina 27 but I'm running into phone apps. I don't even know if they make a control pannel for their engine. I would think an engine would come with standard gages that tell you RPMs, amps etc. Why on earth would I want to have to drag out a phone to look at this stuff? Not to mention the privacy concerns. This is just amazing to see a company pull something like this. Anyone know of an inboard motor company with actual equipment and no phone apps?
What a fantastic video. To the point and full of detail, I’m impressed. A very good starting point for anyone that wants to install Electric- on their boat.
What a great video. I have the same thunder Struck motor you put in. It came with the boat. I have a 2000 watt generator in case i need more charge. Saved my butt many times. Good job.
Buddy of mine did a conversation on a bigger sailboat. 48ft. He's a nut but an argumentative genius. Solor panels, 2 Wind generators, Hydro Generator I helped with the install but saw something I did not like. The engine came with belts like an alternator belt. I suggested he swap it for a chain drive like a timing chain. He said no. On his way to Cabo from San Diego the belt broke. He had spare belts but once it failed he realized it was nearly impossible to access without disassembling the engine compartment. I got a free trip to Cabo to swap belt to chain and cut an access into the engine compartment so it could be reached from the aft cabin. And yes it all worked out. He went to Australia and is currently enroute to Kawai.
This was a very nice experience that you share with us and a very important thing that you achieve for you and your family! Very inspiring! Congratulations!😄 🙏
hey, very nice job. it's interesting to know the global budget about this conversion (motor, controller, charger, battery pack) i'm from belgium, and found a representative contact of Thunderstruck in Netherlands.. my boat: a Kelt Sailoat, 30 feet, actually powered by a Yanmar 2GM :) or the same project, this last summer, at LaRochelle BoatShow, a firm in France propose me 15.000€ (motor, controller, charger, batteryPack),.. interesting to compare enjoy the Sea ;)
i sized a system for a Grinde 27, using one of the newer axial flux motors and got the pack down to 24V ( 25.6Vnom ).....that's the gold, because the system can still be electrically floating.. On Salt, anything over 25.6Vnom ( up to 51.2V Max nominal Li-Ion ), you really need the center tap sea ground, to center reference the pack; but as soon as you put in a sea ground, you need faraday cages, and a way to rote lightning current to sidarcs..
Ne subscriber sending greetings from Tucson, Arizona. I contacted ELCO last year looking for information to complete an electric conversation installation. They were NO help and offered NO information.
Nice job, thank, but one must wonder, given the very reasonable price of used boats, whether it would be more effective to find another boat in good shape and upgrade. I’m thinking that if I were to replace the engine, an outboard or Torquedo would be my preference and so avoid the issues associated with the prop, shaft, bearing, etc.
Hi, i'm looking for information about how can i regenerate energy with the motor when i'm sailing, i kind of a recovery energy break system, anyone has some information about regenerative breaks?
Good video. An alternative to cutting the stringer is to use an upside down 6mm 316 stainless L shaped bracket to bring the motor lower. With the alignment one can try fixing the coupling first then play with the mounts.
Yes! I would have preferred to do it that way, but at the time I didn't know I could probably get the sheet metal shop to bend some brackets for me. So I decided to go with the method I knew I could make work. It would have saved me many steps to use some 'Z' or 'L' shaped brackets!
May i ask where you bought your LifePO4 batteries? So much out there, and don’t know which source is trustworthy. If you can reply with supplier link, it’d be awesome. Thanks!
I'm a bit puzzled. Your spreadsheet says that you have two batteries of 48V at 200Ah each which gives you 9,6kWh each or 19.2kWh total. In your video you said that you only had a 10kWh battery bank. I'm not familiar with those batteries and they are not available here but the LiFePO4 batteries we get here are not 48VDC but 53 to 56VDC which changes the calculation somewhat giving 53VDC x 200Ah = 10.6kWh or 56VDC x 200Ah = 11.2kWh per battery. I am assuming that the batteries are the rated voltages I mentioned and not 24VDC base meaning you had them in series to get the "48VDC" you mentioned. It is quite a nice detailed build video, well explained.
Each of the 2 batteries in my boat are (I think) 51.2 KWh. They are actually 51.2v, 100 Ah each. (But that range is called "48v", which is confusing. :D) So I have a total of 10.4 KWh. Sorry if that was confusing in the video, or on the spreadsheet!
Im looking at replacing my Farymann A30 that I just found a hole through the head (literally) and attempting to do this in as much as a budget/cheap as possible. Boat is a cheap 6kt sh t box, but a local legend in seattle. Anyways, Looking at Anaheim Automation has some integrated controller/motor units and wondering if that could save a few hundred there and going cheap on the batteries if shes never meant to spend more than a night or two out from a plug. I think I can get it done in under 4k USD, is that too lofty?
The main downside of going electric is range. If you don't have much in the way of batteries, you should really have a gas outboard to back you up. I say this because if you need to use a lot of power to get out of a tough spot, it will use up your battery very quickly. The good news is that battery prices seem to be getting better (for lithium Iron Phosphate.) The bad news is that that doesn't help you right now with a hole in your engine! That sucks!
Hello again. Wanted to pick your brain some more. What size interconnect cables between the batteries would you recommend? i will run 4- 12v 100ah batteries in series for 48v. i was thinking 4 GA. Do you think that's adequate or should i go with something larger?
Figure out what amperage you expect to draw, and consult this chart www.bluesea.com/resources/1437 I used 1|0 (or 0) which is good for about (I think) 180 amps, because My set up could use that amount. :D
Hi OpenROV #272 - Quick message to thank you for your informative video as it helped me in starting my own build. I am designing/building a similar setup as yours but instead using two brush-less/water-cooled 48V 10Kw Golden Motors in parallel (driving one propeller shaft). If you are interested in following the build then I have posted my first video showing the motor housing:) Thanks again and keep the boat adventures coming!!:)
My god, just great, we live in Lantzville , I have been to your marina many times , also to pick up fresh crab mmmm. How's the setup today , still going good.
The fuel tank and heat exchanger for my diesel both needed replacement, and though the motor itself was working, it needed work, probably a rebuild. I really like the idea of installing an electric motor so instead of spending money to fix all the rundown parts I had, I spent the money on an electric motor kit. :D
brilliant video, so much information it deserved a sub. wondering if it's possible to take that setup and add it to the drive shaft while keeping my Diesel engine like a hybrid while puttering around running on electric but for longer hauls switching between the two, oh that's a thought if I am running on the motor for propulsion would the electric motor then become a generator?
Thanks! There are companies that make parallel hybrid setups for sailboats. I haven't seen any that were kits or packages made to update existing motors though. That would be very cool if they did!
How are the EG-4 WP batteries working out? I bought a about ten of them. The cells are wildly out of balance. Seems completely random as to which ones. I can't charge above 55.2 without going over 3.65.
They have been working well for me, but I can't claim to be an expert. I just plug in the charger and when I get back to the boat they are full. They do have a 5 year warranty, so if they are bad you should be able to return them, though obviously it would be a pain in the butt to have to do that! This guy: th-cam.com/users/WillProwsesearch?query=eg4 seems to know a great deal about batteries, and has experience with EG4. I'm not sure if he has used the WP ones though. He would probably have a more satisfying answer! :D
Interesting video thank you, would like to have known the weight differences, is it getting to a point where a 300ltr tank and big v8 stern drive could be changed out for electric or do we still have to wait for tech to catch up
My diesel engine was about 250 lbs. Plus full fuel tank which I think was about 170 lbs (not including the tank itself). There was additional weight from the heat exchanger and whatnot. The new motor was about 50 lbs and the batteries are about 85 lbs each (x2 170 lbs). SO currently I am under weight by close to 200 lbs. Which leaves room for more batteries. :D
Lol. I should have noted on the sheet that the black wire was a discounted "End of roll" section. It was exactly the length I needed. Lucky me! Otherwise I would have done exactly what you suggested with the heat shrink. :D
I have the intent to install solar panels. But I'm not certain when that will happen. I charge the batteries on the dock, and that works well enough for now. But I want solar panels so I can do more than just day trips. :D
Not really, props are really expensive and belts are cheap. It's easier to calculate and buy the pulley you need than to find a fitting prop. Also, replacing the motor is easier with the belt drive, you just unscrew two bolts and that's it
There are a ton of advantages to electric. Range is NOT one of them. (Unless you have all the time in the world, then, if you have solar panels, you could be boat-energy independent! But I don't think that would work for very many people.) Low noise. low maintenance. High torque, and instant power, on and off at the flick of a switch. The ability to run the prop at very low rpm. There are other small advantages I haven't used more than 50% of my battery in my outings. But I mostly go day sailing. You don't need a lot of energy to motor in and out of the marina. But I expect time crunches when cruising. For that I have my dinghy's outboard. It pushes the boat at hull speed. I haven't needed it yet though. But when I do, I will happily burn the required gasoline.
I would do it again yes. And I would use the same motor. :D I'm very happy with the motor. I haven't discovered any downsides, and the price was better for this motor than the others I looked at.
Currently my prop is too small to do regen. And according to what I have read, the largest prop I can put on my boat is also too small. I'm going to do some experiments, hopefully this summer, to see if there is anything I can do about that. :D
Hey mate. Thanks for the super informative video. Am just installing my electric as we speak. Do you have any roll pins (or and type of pin) with your coupler other than the two retaining pins? I have a taper lock coupler and can't find an answer to if the clamping force is enough for the thrust forces (forward and reverse) or weather I should also reinforce it with some sort of thru shaft bolt / pin set up. Love your work on there finally being a how to out there!
I just have the two retaining pins. I know that the interference fit on (one side) of my couple, does the bulk of the work. But the retaining screws on my set up are definitely required! :D
there may be some provisions, in the emerging code, having to do with connections; which may allow for higher voltages than 51.2Vnom. but i think that center tap sea ground may have to be there, at some point; for packs over 25.6Vnom.......but as it sits at the moment, electrically floating packs are still limited to 25.6Vnom
It's a great idea, especially for longer cruising trips. I don't have one, but I do have a 15 hp outboard for my dingy, and it easily pushes my boat at hull speed. So that is my back up currently. But I have seen (on youtube) several people use generators as back up when cruising. They are relatively small an inexpensive these days (for gas generators.) In a bigger boat, a diesel generator would be great.
why did you chose to go 48v? I see a lot of people doing it and I don't understand why. I know there must be a reason but I have not read, see or heard why. Thank you in advance. (love the spread sheet)
If you used 12v, the current draw would be so high that you wouldn't be able to afford the cables. Using 48v means less current for the same amount of power, and the cable size is determined by the amount of current, not voltage. The reason to not use higher than 48v, (even though it would still smaller cables) is that 48v is considered safe (or so I have read) but going much higher that 48v can start to be unsafe for some people. Person to person, we have have different conductivity. Some might be safer at higher voltage, some at lower voltages. :D This is the best answer I have found, but I am no expert.
Electricity is made up of voltage V and current I. When these go through a resistance R they are proportional (double voltage halve current) V=IR. However, power loss is I squared so if you double your voltage current goes down by a half but power loss is now a quarter. So higher the voltage the smaller the wires needed.
Its interesting that my ebike hobby came from learning how to work on these things. A 1kw motor carries me at 30mph around town more often than cars do now
Very informative video. Thanks. Two questions please: 1. I'm sure that you've mentioned it elsewhere, but how many of what type of solar panels do you have feeding this system? 2. Seems I've seen a video or two from others that show a direct connection of a similar motor to the drive shaft (instead of using a belt). Do you believe the belt is simply mandatory, or did you choose it for other reasons?
1. I don't have any solar panels... yet. Just batteries so far. I expect/hope to install some. :D 2.a. Using the mount, with the belt to change the gear ratio, helps in a few ways. Changing the gear ratio to match the desired rpm of the prop means that the motor can reach maximum rpm. According to Thunderstruck, this is more efficient, gives better torque, and reduces prop cavitation. 2.b It also gives more control of power output. I'll try to explain. Compare turning the throttle a quarter of the way to maximum. The straight shaft will spin 2 or more times faster (depending on) meaning more power goes to the prop. The shaft with gear reduction will spin slower putting less power into the prop (for the same turn of the throttle) which gives more control of how much power is used while maneuvering, (or even holding position in a current.) The straight to shaft setup will reach the real max RPM of the prop at or below half-throttle. (I'm not sure I explained this well. sorry.) I'm guessing the throttle (or the controller) could be programed to avoid this particular issue, but I don't know how, so this is still a bonus for me. :D. 2.c. The motor needs a thrust bearing between itself and the prop shaft. This is a requirement because the motor isn't made to support the shaft directly. Thrust bearings can certainly be installed on their own. But I have no experience with that. This motor mount/gear ration changer has one built in. So that is a nice bonus. It really makes installing the actual motor much easier too! And it will be helpful when I need to remove the motor. I should note that, by far, the number one reason I chose to use the available motor mount, is just that. It was available. I needed a way to install the motor and this solved that problem. I didn't have machining skills or experience, so I was happy to not have to solve that problem. heh. :D
@@openrov272 The mount also gets the open frame motor further out of the bilge and away from any seepage from the shaft seal plus will prevent the high speed Motenergy ME1115 Dual-Stator Brushless Motor (yikes 5,000 rpm) from running full torque at low RPM generating heat and consuming more energy which will greatly reduce range. You could direct drive and change the prop to match the motors direct drive speed range to overcome this as others have found however upping the shaft speed likely will accelerate bearing, shaft and seal wear. To me the Elco with its totally enclosed design with integrated controller and speed matched motor (1,500 rpm) is a better engineered solution due to the protection it provides the motor from getting contaminated with water/brine but then Elco has been at this for well over a century starting with the Worlds Fair Electric Launch's in the late 1800's plus a variety of submarines from General Dynamics since around the first World War. A number of the 1893 Worlds Fair propulsion systems are still in original condition and operational today as are a number of the boats still being used to ferry passengers, not just sitting on display as museum pieces. Their EP-12 Electric Inboard 12 HP equivalent with everything (motor, coupler, mounts, controller, throttle and charger) except the lithium batteries comes to around $8,299. Its becoming easier and more viable to do this today and its nice to see the various options being pursued. Kudos for taking a shot at this as a DIY project and sharing. Best!
always the same results. Spinning an existing inboard uses more than twice the power of turning a large diameter (4ft) propeller slowly. When using electric every watt saved matters.
Mostly it's the $12000 (plus shipping, taxes, cables and other install costs). :D I would be okay with the extra weight (it would put me about 450 lbs over the weight of the diesel + tank etc).
I haven't done an update because, though I have gone out many times, I don't really have any new information. I'm ordering a wind sensor, so that I can more properly account for wind speed. And I need to clean my knot-meter inducer so that I can get water speed, which hasn't been running since just before I removed the diesel. I typically run at 2kw, and that gets me a speed of 3-4 knots depending on wind (high wind drops me below 3, but I usually sail then.) I will note this in the spreadsheet. Which I should have done before. Doh!
Hi, do you have a bead on a supplier of blanks for all the holes left behind of the decomissioned and abandoned? And also how did you plug the engine exhaust port?
If you are talking about the thru-hulls, I haven't sealed them. The raw-water intake thru-hull is plugged and strapped for now (As well as being closed of course.) The exhaust has not yet been permanently sealed or removed yet. It is above the waterline, and the hose loops well above the waterline, but it does need to be plugged, or preferably, filled. I have some ideas for the raw-water intake, so I will leave it as-is for now. Once I deal with the exhaust thru-hull, I will finally be able to remove the rest of the exhaust hose. :D
If motoring long distances at Hull Speed is the most important feature for you, I wouldn't go electric. Range is the one factor that is still very(very) much better with a gas/diesel power-plant. I have an outboard as a backup, in case I want to motor for long periods of time. But I haven't used it yet. I can motor at about 3 knots (2kw) for 5 hours, and that has worked well for me. Currently, my prop does not match my gear reduction ratio. (This is because I am replacing the prop, so I made the calculation for the new prop not the current one.) So I would have to guess to answer your question. I can't claim it reaches hull speed, because I haven't done it. With the 10 KWH of battery power I have, using the 10kw motor that I have, I can go at full power for 1 hour. (the range is weather dependent) The diesel motor, which I replaced, couldn't reach hull speed anyway, but this motor will get closer to it. (It might actually do hull speed, the math suggests it can.) I generally run the motor at a set power level (2-4k) so I know that I will get either 5 -2.5 hours of motoring. If you reduce your speed by 1 knot, you use half the power. So running at 2 knots below hull speed save uses 1/4 the power of hull speed.
I was thinking of downgrading to a battery motor but then I looked at it and decided "hell no", I am not an idiot. The silliest downgrade you can do is get a battery powered motor that goes about 15 miles before dying vs my diesel that goes 1,000 miles, costs less, refills instantly, and is super reliable. There is no real decision to be made guys. Don't fall for stupid politics - batteries are dirty and full of chemicals, expensive, pollute the world for 100,000 years after you dump the junk, and cost more. Nough said. Only fools get them.
@@Lana_Warwick ...I know I was harsh in my statement, but it is true. Lithium is a terrible mess of chemicals and harmful elements that pollute for 100,000 years after you toss it. Please, use natural energy from the Sun in the form of beautiful naturally produced oil. The Earth has blessed us by making and preserving the Sun's energy. There is nothing stronger, longer lasting, and more natural that Earth's own naturally produced oil. These man made Earth shattering chemical monstrosities are terrible. PS we now know that the Earth is essentially, a massive oil producing "factory" and that we will never run out of in the same way that we will never run out of trees. Nature replenishes itself.
@@Lana_Warwick true but some opinions are more informed! After some serious researching for well over 2 years now, and without a 'green' vs dyno juice agenda - my only criteria being minimizing the already awful 'investment' anything boating is, I've come to the conclusion electric only makes sense, barring some major battery tech breakthrough, in very few use cases. It's only ever 'green' if like with EVs you ignore how it's built, charged, and scrapped come scrap yard time... and let not talk about resale value in the interim. Comparing a mistreated, poorly maintained 30+ year noisy, leaky diesel to a clean, quiet, and reliable electric install is a common fallacy, you never see it compared to a clean, efficient and much quieter new diesel install... When my 42+ year old white glove maintained diesel finally quits I'll likely drop in another new diesel and take good care of it. Yes I'll hate putting up with the noise vs electric but in exchange I'll have range and higher resale value...
My diesel, universal 5411, wieghted 245 lbs. A full fuel tank weighed about 160lbs. (The universal 5411 is very small for a marine diesel, many catalina 30's had larger, 365 lb, 16 hp version, or a atomic 4 at 437 lbs). In my boat, the electric motor, including mount, was (IIRC) about 50-60lbs. The batteries are 80lbs each, and I have 2. So the total weights are: Diesel - 405 lbs. Electric - 220 lbs.
@@openrov272 nice video, thanks for putting it together... Question, did you find losing that weight/ballast ratio affected your sailboat (in a +'ve or -'ve way)? I guess where your fuel tank was located could also factor into the equation, someone I know added 25lb lead shot bags to the bilge right over the keel which worked good...
Great video. Super informative but not so far into the weeds that it was tedious. Even more interesting are the comments. Back when "Sailing Uma" and a couple other early-ish EV adopters were converting (maybe five-7 years ago), the comments were full of the usual "old salts" just ripping them on their decision to go all EV, to the point of being insulting and ignorant. It's gratifying to see that enthusiasm and productive consideration seems to have taken over.
That is at hull speed. The 5 hour range, if no recharge capability mind you, at 4 knots is fine. Solar and wind generation recharging push him all day.
@chrisstephens9948 like those that hear the first line of the analysis and stop listening. Then posting a comment making them look as thick as two thick things. There is a Dutch guy that sailed for 1 month, where he logged 80% overcast or rainy days and ran his boat's electric motor and all of the electronics in his boat without ever needing external electricity to charge his batteries. Oh well, some will just be so set against change that they cannot accept electric motor with wind and solar regeneration, even as it is being proven. Someone should ask the dumbass original poster, "how often do you operate your diesel at full speed?" What a moron.
That's a really good video, thank you for making it. I have a playlist of how I mounted my 10KW inboards by E-Tech into my catamaran's bilges. Used 3D scanner and 3D printer.
I converted my Catalina 30 to the same ThunderStruck kit 5 years ago. I recently bought the ODB2 kit and Bluetooth adapter - got everything hooked up but I am having trouble setting up the Torque app to read the output from the controller. Did you have to download special PIDs for the app?
My current set up won't allow regen. My prop is too small, (I've been told that, realistically, you need a 16" or larger prop for regen) and I believe the space available for a prop on my boat is also too small (for a 16" prop). I will be replacing my prop, so there is some small hope there. :D
@@openrov272 yes to will need to upgrade to a feathering or similar prop. As you want the larger prop for Regen but less drag at slow speeds. I think the real holy grail for electrics is producing enough Regen or solar to charge the small running time to get in and out of the slip as well as house loads. I suspect we will see at a minimum diesel electric hybrids being the norm for all new boats and repowers soon enough.
I suspect if you’re clever and use your noggin, this can be done for a lot less than $10k. Maybe look at the world of golf cars and mobility chairs for lightly used, high-quality components. Second hand 12 V server backup batteries are also a great way to source batteries more affordably, as they are changed out on a schedule, even if they were never pressed into service. Most of these have Samsung or LG cells.
Yes, my dingy outboard is gas, and pushes my sailboat boat at hull speed. So if I need to motor long distances, I'm covered. So far I haven't needed it, since I can motor for 4+ hours (at 3 knots) and that is more than I usually need. :D
i was looking for a video like this before...and all i got was a mostly after on a grin install .....i understand the reduction props want tourque. but i wanted to try to go shaft-less direct for re-gen, and low drag under sail sake, and actually had to design my own 9-phase motor..... still checking out the way different people are doing it....super video, thank you sir.
@@openrov272 it was really sad at the end though....you did such a good job on everything, but you didn't get a re-gen controller.....i felt your pain dude......just price a re-gen controller out, and see if you can get a partial refund for the used one..
@@openrov272Re-Gen Is More Dependent On The Controller Programming ....if you "load" a prop too hard, it won't spin; if you don't load it hard enough, it will just spin .... it's kind of like manual MPPT...so you have to Tweak The Re-Gen Controller Programming........and reductions might be great for forward propulsion, but just as much, they cause a reduction in re-gen....if you have a sevcon , then mess with the re-gen programming under sail....looking for the sweet spot.
Still got it. Still love it. :D I haven't had a chance to do anything worth posting, and the data (in terms of range) hasn't changed. I expect to be able to improve things (with wind data) this spring/summer. Last year was super busy for me and I failed to organize anything beyond day sailing. :D
Very funny, inspiring informational vid! Thanks for sharing this useful info. Was wondering if anyone ever attempted installing a hybrid electric motor like a Prius C? Might be a dumb que but I'm not very technical so no shame on my end lol. It seems like a great redundant option that can further reduce fuel costs as well as mitigate against lightning storm damages to any onboard electrics. Would greatly value your expert feedback.
@@openrov272 :- ) Was never a fan of generators purely from the standpoint of the noise they...well... "generate". Part of the reason I support the electric movement actually is for its low noise pollution in such a beautiful, natural environment. To me its a no brainer and as the technology on batteries improves, I don't see why it can't become the standard. Anywho, just my 2 cents.
I have watched many such install videos and must say you did a great job with yours. Lots of helpful info.
Thank you!
We need more of these videos showing real life stories of electric powered boat coversions. A growth market for sure. Kudos!!!
Now THIS is a useful video! 20 minutes full of facts and advice, instead of skipping important steps to talk about sponsors and whatnot.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Literally has several minutes of spam and sponsor splooge.
I gave u a thumbs up for "yoink your engine out" lol.
Hope this works for you. I wanted to do an electric swap but after figuring the numbers I chose a 25hp diesel and am definitely pleased but I'm a cruiser so when I'm out, I avoid marinas and boatyard like the plague. Just yesterday I had to motor 35 miles. Gotta love BC winds 😆✌🏻
Great video sir! I really like your format, lots of pics of the project, quality of content and build, and consistent narration volume. I'm gonna check out your ROV diving vids. Keep up the good work.
Thanks!
I'm trying to buy an Elco electric inboard for my Catalina 27 but I'm running into phone apps. I don't even know if they make a control pannel for their engine. I would think an engine would come with standard gages that tell you RPMs, amps etc. Why on earth would I want to have to drag out a phone to look at this stuff? Not to mention the privacy concerns. This is just amazing to see a company pull something like this. Anyone know of an inboard motor company with actual equipment and no phone apps?
And also a way to require subscriptions and ongoing fees.
Just install a 100$ tablet and there you have your gauges
What a fantastic video. To the point and full of detail, I’m impressed. A very good starting point for anyone that wants to install Electric- on their boat.
Thanks!
What a great video. I have the same thunder Struck motor you put in. It came with the boat. I have a 2000 watt generator in case i need more charge. Saved my butt many times. Good job.
I like the shaft vs the sail-drive paradigm. It seems to be simpler, safer and less problem prone.
Buddy of mine did a conversation on a bigger sailboat. 48ft. He's a nut but an argumentative genius. Solor panels, 2 Wind generators, Hydro Generator
I helped with the install but saw something I did not like. The engine came with belts like an alternator belt. I suggested he swap it for a chain drive like a timing chain. He said no. On his way to Cabo from San Diego the belt broke. He had spare belts but once it failed he realized it was nearly impossible to access without disassembling the engine compartment.
I got a free trip to Cabo to swap belt to chain and cut an access into the engine compartment so it could be reached from the aft cabin. And yes it all worked out. He went to Australia and is currently enroute to Kawai.
Excellent video! Extremely helpful details. Great stuff.
Thank you!
Make sure you use locktight on the coupler screws, any vibration and eventually they will come loose..
This was a very nice experience that you share with us and a very important thing that you achieve for you and your family! Very inspiring! Congratulations!😄 🙏
Thank you for putting all the time and effort into this video all for the greater purpose of sharing information. We appreciate you!
thunderstruck is a great company im in NZ and use their chargers and a mate put an e motor in his cat . loves it
hey, very nice job.
it's interesting to know the global budget about this conversion (motor, controller, charger, battery pack)
i'm from belgium, and found a representative contact of Thunderstruck in Netherlands..
my boat: a Kelt Sailoat, 30 feet, actually powered by a Yanmar 2GM :)
or the same project, this last summer, at LaRochelle BoatShow, a firm in France propose me 15.000€ (motor, controller, charger, batteryPack),.. interesting to compare
enjoy the Sea ;)
Great information for my project. I would like to choose between mi diessel engine and an electric having both installed. Thank you very much!
i sized a system for a Grinde 27, using one of the newer axial flux motors and got the pack down to 24V ( 25.6Vnom ).....that's the gold, because the system can still be electrically floating..
On Salt, anything over 25.6Vnom ( up to 51.2V Max nominal Li-Ion ), you really need the center tap sea ground, to center reference the pack;
but as soon as you put in a sea ground, you need faraday cages, and a way to rote lightning current to sidarcs..
Can you share a link to the actual flux motor you used please?
Ne subscriber sending greetings from Tucson, Arizona.
I contacted ELCO last year looking for information to complete an electric conversation installation.
They were NO help and offered NO information.
Nice job, thank, but one must wonder, given the very reasonable price of used boats, whether it would be more effective to find another boat in good shape and upgrade. I’m thinking that if I were to replace the engine, an outboard or Torquedo would be my preference and so avoid the issues associated with the prop, shaft, bearing, etc.
Hi, i'm looking for information about how can i regenerate energy with the motor when i'm sailing, i kind of a recovery energy break system, anyone has some information about regenerative breaks?
Hello very nice video.
How much ($)was the total material used?
Thank you
All hail the lords of corrupt inflation. Thank you for the honor of allowing my dreams to be crushed. ...good info!
Good video. An alternative to cutting the stringer is to use an upside down 6mm 316 stainless L shaped bracket to bring the motor lower.
With the alignment one can try fixing the coupling first then play with the mounts.
Yes! I would have preferred to do it that way, but at the time I didn't know I could probably get the sheet metal shop to bend some brackets for me. So I decided to go with the method I knew I could make work. It would have saved me many steps to use some 'Z' or 'L' shaped brackets!
May i ask where you bought your LifePO4 batteries? So much out there, and don’t know which source is trustworthy. If you can reply with supplier link, it’d be awesome. Thanks!
signaturesolar.com/shop-all/batteries/
This is where I bought them :D
WOW. great video, probably the most helpful install video I have seen - thank you.
Thanks!
Thanks for your reply and great information awesome video
Nice man. I did the same conversion and shot a bunch of video of it. Have not edited it yet.... Seems like a lot of work.
It is! :D
Great video and work on your boat, thanks for sharing with us. Fair winds and following seas 🙏
Thanks!
From your states it does not sound like it would be good for Island hoping and crossing the ocean. more of a lake option
Until battery density hits at least 500 watt hours per kilogram, this all a big yawn.
Good luck getting signature solar to cover the warranty. They told me to pound sand
I'm a bit puzzled. Your spreadsheet says that you have two batteries of 48V at 200Ah each which gives you 9,6kWh each or 19.2kWh total. In your video you said that you only had a 10kWh battery bank. I'm not familiar with those batteries and they are not available here but the LiFePO4 batteries we get here are not 48VDC but 53 to 56VDC which changes the calculation somewhat giving 53VDC x 200Ah = 10.6kWh or 56VDC x 200Ah = 11.2kWh per battery. I am assuming that the batteries are the rated voltages I mentioned and not 24VDC base meaning you had them in series to get the "48VDC" you mentioned. It is quite a nice detailed build video, well explained.
Each of the 2 batteries in my boat are (I think) 51.2 KWh. They are actually 51.2v, 100 Ah each. (But that range is called "48v", which is confusing. :D) So I have a total of 10.4 KWh. Sorry if that was confusing in the video, or on the spreadsheet!
Im looking at replacing my Farymann A30 that I just found a hole through the head (literally) and attempting to do this in as much as a budget/cheap as possible. Boat is a cheap 6kt sh t box, but a local legend in seattle. Anyways, Looking at Anaheim Automation has some integrated controller/motor units and wondering if that could save a few hundred there and going cheap on the batteries if shes never meant to spend more than a night or two out from a plug. I think I can get it done in under 4k USD, is that too lofty?
The main downside of going electric is range. If you don't have much in the way of batteries, you should really have a gas outboard to back you up. I say this because if you need to use a lot of power to get out of a tough spot, it will use up your battery very quickly. The good news is that battery prices seem to be getting better (for lithium Iron Phosphate.) The bad news is that that doesn't help you right now with a hole in your engine! That sucks!
Hello again. Wanted to pick your brain some more. What size interconnect cables between the batteries would you recommend? i will run 4- 12v 100ah batteries in series for 48v. i was thinking 4 GA. Do you think that's adequate or should i go with something larger?
Figure out what amperage you expect to draw, and consult this chart www.bluesea.com/resources/1437 I used 1|0 (or 0) which is good for about (I think) 180 amps, because My set up could use that amount. :D
Hi OpenROV #272 - Quick message to thank you for your informative video as it helped me in starting my own build. I am designing/building a similar setup as yours but instead using two brush-less/water-cooled 48V 10Kw Golden Motors in parallel (driving one propeller shaft). If you are interested in following the build then I have posted my first video showing the motor housing:) Thanks again and keep the boat adventures coming!!:)
Awesome!
My god, just great, we live in Lantzville , I have been to your marina many times , also to pick up fresh crab mmmm. How's the setup today , still going good.
Still going great!
Interesting. Haven't seen your channel before and may have skimmed over this but what prompted you to do this conversion?
The fuel tank and heat exchanger for my diesel both needed replacement, and though the motor itself was working, it needed work, probably a rebuild. I really like the idea of installing an electric motor so instead of spending money to fix all the rundown parts I had, I spent the money on an electric motor kit. :D
brilliant video, so much information it deserved a sub. wondering if it's possible to take that setup and add it to the drive shaft while keeping my Diesel engine like a hybrid while puttering around running on electric but for longer hauls switching between the two, oh that's a thought if I am running on the motor for propulsion would the electric motor then become a generator?
Thanks!
There are companies that make parallel hybrid setups for sailboats. I haven't seen any that were kits or packages made to update existing motors though. That would be very cool if they did!
How are the EG-4 WP batteries working out? I bought a about ten of them. The cells are wildly out of balance. Seems completely random as to which ones. I can't charge above 55.2 without going over 3.65.
They have been working well for me, but I can't claim to be an expert. I just plug in the charger and when I get back to the boat they are full. They do have a 5 year warranty, so if they are bad you should be able to return them, though obviously it would be a pain in the butt to have to do that! This guy: th-cam.com/users/WillProwsesearch?query=eg4 seems to know a great deal about batteries, and has experience with EG4. I'm not sure if he has used the WP ones though. He would probably have a more satisfying answer! :D
Interesting video thank you, would like to have known the weight differences, is it getting to a point where a 300ltr tank and big v8 stern drive could be changed out for electric or do we still have to wait for tech to catch up
My diesel engine was about 250 lbs. Plus full fuel tank which I think was about 170 lbs (not including the tank itself). There was additional weight from the heat exchanger and whatnot. The new motor was about 50 lbs and the batteries are about 85 lbs each (x2 170 lbs). SO currently I am under weight by close to 200 lbs. Which leaves room for more batteries. :D
If I knew 1/0 Black wire was much cheaper that the 1/0 Red wire, I'd use all Black with Red Marine heat shrink on the ends. Or at least ask them why?
Lol. I should have noted on the sheet that the black wire was a discounted "End of roll" section. It was exactly the length I needed. Lucky me! Otherwise I would have done exactly what you suggested with the heat shrink. :D
How do you change the batteries?
Thunderstruck should slip you some swag as they're now backordered. Nice video.
Lol
Any plans on solar panels?
I have the intent to install solar panels. But I'm not certain when that will happen. I charge the batteries on the dock, and that works well enough for now. But I want solar panels so I can do more than just day trips. :D
Where did you install the batteries?
Nice job man ! Next step, tesla swap ?
It would be more efficient to go direct drive without a belt, and if you needed to change the "gear ratio" resize/repitch your prop
Not really, props are really expensive and belts are cheap. It's easier to calculate and buy the pulley you need than to find a fitting prop. Also, replacing the motor is easier with the belt drive, you just unscrew two bolts and that's it
Very nice Video!! Thank you!
Electric and salt water
Go great together !🤣
Very well made brother. Good job
Thanks!
I don't understand the advantage of electric that you can run for....(a couple of hrs, I guess) to a combustion engine that you can run forever
There are a ton of advantages to electric. Range is NOT one of them. (Unless you have all the time in the world, then, if you have solar panels, you could be boat-energy independent! But I don't think that would work for very many people.) Low noise. low maintenance. High torque, and instant power, on and off at the flick of a switch. The ability to run the prop at very low rpm. There are other small advantages I haven't used more than 50% of my battery in my outings. But I mostly go day sailing. You don't need a lot of energy to motor in and out of the marina. But I expect time crunches when cruising. For that I have my dinghy's outboard. It pushes the boat at hull speed. I haven't needed it yet though. But when I do, I will happily burn the required gasoline.
Would you do it again today? Would you use the same or different motor and if so why?
I would do it again yes. And I would use the same motor. :D I'm very happy with the motor. I haven't discovered any downsides, and the price was better for this motor than the others I looked at.
What about regeneration using the prop & motor while sailing?
Currently my prop is too small to do regen. And according to what I have read, the largest prop I can put on my boat is also too small. I'm going to do some experiments, hopefully this summer, to see if there is anything I can do about that. :D
Hey mate. Thanks for the super informative video. Am just installing my electric as we speak. Do you have any roll pins (or and type of pin) with your coupler other than the two retaining pins? I have a taper lock coupler and can't find an answer to if the clamping force is enough for the thrust forces (forward and reverse) or weather I should also reinforce it with some sort of thru shaft bolt / pin set up.
Love your work on there finally being a how to out there!
I just have the two retaining pins. I know that the interference fit on (one side) of my couple, does the bulk of the work. But the retaining screws on my set up are definitely required! :D
@@openrov272 legend! Cheers
Love to have 100 solar boat .
there may be some provisions, in the emerging code, having to do with connections; which may allow for higher voltages than 51.2Vnom.
but i think that center tap sea ground may have to be there, at some point; for packs over 25.6Vnom.......but as it sits at the moment, electrically floating packs are still limited to 25.6Vnom
Have you thought of supplying voltage for the electric motor with a gas/diesel generator ?
It's a great idea, especially for longer cruising trips. I don't have one, but I do have a 15 hp outboard for my dingy, and it easily pushes my boat at hull speed. So that is my back up currently. But I have seen (on youtube) several people use generators as back up when cruising. They are relatively small an inexpensive these days (for gas generators.) In a bigger boat, a diesel generator would be great.
why did you chose to go 48v? I see a lot of people doing it and I don't understand why. I know there must be a reason but I have not read, see or heard why. Thank you in advance. (love the spread sheet)
If you used 12v, the current draw would be so high that you wouldn't be able to afford the cables. Using 48v means less current for the same amount of power, and the cable size is determined by the amount of current, not voltage. The reason to not use higher than 48v, (even though it would still smaller cables) is that 48v is considered safe (or so I have read) but going much higher that 48v can start to be unsafe for some people. Person to person, we have have different conductivity. Some might be safer at higher voltage, some at lower voltages. :D This is the best answer I have found, but I am no expert.
Electricity is made up of voltage V and current I. When these go through a resistance R they are proportional (double voltage halve current) V=IR. However, power loss is I squared so if you double your voltage current goes down by a half but power loss is now a quarter. So higher the voltage the smaller the wires needed.
Its interesting that my ebike hobby came from learning how to work on these things. A 1kw motor carries me at 30mph around town more often than cars do now
Very informative video. Thanks. Two questions please:
1. I'm sure that you've mentioned it elsewhere, but how many of what type of solar panels do you have feeding this system?
2. Seems I've seen a video or two from others that show a direct connection of a similar motor to the drive shaft (instead of using a belt). Do you believe the belt is simply mandatory, or did you choose it for other reasons?
1. I don't have any solar panels... yet. Just batteries so far. I expect/hope to install some. :D
2.a. Using the mount, with the belt to change the gear ratio, helps in a few ways. Changing the gear ratio to match the desired rpm of the prop means that the motor can reach maximum rpm. According to Thunderstruck, this is more efficient, gives better torque, and reduces prop cavitation.
2.b It also gives more control of power output. I'll try to explain. Compare turning the throttle a quarter of the way to maximum. The straight shaft will spin 2 or more times faster (depending on) meaning more power goes to the prop. The shaft with gear reduction will spin slower putting less power into the prop (for the same turn of the throttle) which gives more control of how much power is used while maneuvering, (or even holding position in a current.) The straight to shaft setup will reach the real max RPM of the prop at or below half-throttle. (I'm not sure I explained this well. sorry.) I'm guessing the throttle (or the controller) could be programed to avoid this particular issue, but I don't know how, so this is still a bonus for me. :D.
2.c. The motor needs a thrust bearing between itself and the prop shaft. This is a requirement because the motor isn't made to support the shaft directly. Thrust bearings can certainly be installed on their own. But I have no experience with that. This motor mount/gear ration changer has one built in. So that is a nice bonus. It really makes installing the actual motor much easier too! And it will be helpful when I need to remove the motor.
I should note that, by far, the number one reason I chose to use the available motor mount, is just that. It was available. I needed a way to install the motor and this solved that problem. I didn't have machining skills or experience, so I was happy to not have to solve that problem. heh. :D
@@openrov272 Very good, detailed explanation, thanks.
@@openrov272 The mount also gets the open frame motor further out of the bilge and away from any seepage from the shaft seal plus will prevent the high speed Motenergy ME1115 Dual-Stator Brushless Motor (yikes 5,000 rpm) from running full torque at low RPM generating heat and consuming more energy which will greatly reduce range. You could direct drive and change the prop to match the motors direct drive speed range to overcome this as others have found however upping the shaft speed likely will accelerate bearing, shaft and seal wear.
To me the Elco with its totally enclosed design with integrated controller and speed matched motor (1,500 rpm) is a better engineered solution due to the protection it provides the motor from getting contaminated with water/brine but then Elco has been at this for well over a century starting with the Worlds Fair Electric Launch's in the late 1800's plus a variety of submarines from General Dynamics since around the first World War. A number of the 1893 Worlds Fair propulsion systems are still in original condition and operational today as are a number of the boats still being used to ferry passengers, not just sitting on display as museum pieces. Their EP-12 Electric Inboard 12 HP equivalent with everything (motor, coupler, mounts, controller, throttle and charger) except the lithium batteries comes to around $8,299.
Its becoming easier and more viable to do this today and its nice to see the various options being pursued.
Kudos for taking a shot at this as a DIY project and sharing.
Best!
I shared in my group
Does it recharge the battery while sailing?
My prop is too small, but with a bigger prop it would.
always the same results. Spinning an existing inboard uses more than twice the power of turning a large diameter (4ft) propeller slowly. When using electric every watt saved matters.
why didnt you add more battery capacity to the boat? cant you add abt 50kwh?
Mostly it's the $12000 (plus shipping, taxes, cables and other install costs). :D I would be okay with the extra weight (it would put me about 450 lbs over the weight of the diesel + tank etc).
Thanks I am planning to replace a 45 yo diesel with electric. Very helpful.
I used their 5K kit. Very satisfied with quality and customer service.
no updates?
I haven't done an update because, though I have gone out many times, I don't really have any new information. I'm ordering a wind sensor, so that I can more properly account for wind speed. And I need to clean my knot-meter inducer so that I can get water speed, which hasn't been running since just before I removed the diesel. I typically run at 2kw, and that gets me a speed of 3-4 knots depending on wind (high wind drops me below 3, but I usually sail then.) I will note this in the spreadsheet. Which I should have done before. Doh!
Hi, do you have a bead on a supplier of blanks for all the holes left behind of the decomissioned and abandoned? And also how did you plug the engine exhaust port?
If you are talking about the thru-hulls, I haven't sealed them. The raw-water intake thru-hull is plugged and strapped for now (As well as being closed of course.) The exhaust has not yet been permanently sealed or removed yet. It is above the waterline, and the hose loops well above the waterline, but it does need to be plugged, or preferably, filled. I have some ideas for the raw-water intake, so I will leave it as-is for now. Once I deal with the exhaust thru-hull, I will finally be able to remove the rest of the exhaust hose. :D
How about unused control and gauge holes, did you use blanks?
No I haven't used any blanks.
What’s your max range motoring at near hull speed ?
If motoring long distances at Hull Speed is the most important feature for you, I wouldn't go electric. Range is the one factor that is still very(very) much better with a gas/diesel power-plant. I have an outboard as a backup, in case I want to motor for long periods of time. But I haven't used it yet. I can motor at about 3 knots (2kw) for 5 hours, and that has worked well for me. Currently, my prop does not match my gear reduction ratio. (This is because I am replacing the prop, so I made the calculation for the new prop not the current one.) So I would have to guess to answer your question. I can't claim it reaches hull speed, because I haven't done it. With the 10 KWH of battery power I have, using the 10kw motor that I have, I can go at full power for 1 hour. (the range is weather dependent) The diesel motor, which I replaced, couldn't reach hull speed anyway, but this motor will get closer to it. (It might actually do hull speed, the math suggests it can.) I generally run the motor at a set power level (2-4k) so I know that I will get either 5 -2.5 hours of motoring. If you reduce your speed by 1 knot, you use half the power. So running at 2 knots below hull speed save uses 1/4 the power of hull speed.
I hope used never seize on your shaft and threads. This video is very informative.
Thank you
I watched it 2 times, great job.
Thanks!
Guys, get the terminology right. It's a Downgrade.
Well done! I feel there was a point in the video where you reached no return - the electric engine *must* work :)
I was thinking of downgrading to a battery motor but then I looked at it and decided "hell no", I am not an idiot. The silliest downgrade you can do is get a battery powered motor that goes about 15 miles before dying vs my diesel that goes 1,000 miles, costs less, refills instantly, and is super reliable. There is no real decision to be made guys. Don't fall for stupid politics - batteries are dirty and full of chemicals, expensive, pollute the world for 100,000 years after you dump the junk, and cost more. Nough said. Only fools get them.
That's an opinion. We are all entitled to our own.
@@Lana_Warwick ...I know I was harsh in my statement, but it is true. Lithium is a terrible mess of chemicals and harmful elements that pollute for 100,000 years after you toss it. Please, use natural energy from the Sun in the form of beautiful naturally produced oil. The Earth has blessed us by making and preserving the Sun's energy. There is nothing stronger, longer lasting, and more natural that Earth's own naturally produced oil. These man made Earth shattering chemical monstrosities are terrible. PS we now know that the Earth is essentially, a massive oil producing "factory" and that we will never run out of in the same way that we will never run out of trees. Nature replenishes itself.
@@Lana_Warwick true but some opinions are more informed! After some serious researching for well over 2 years now, and without a 'green' vs dyno juice agenda - my only criteria being minimizing the already awful 'investment' anything boating is, I've come to the conclusion electric only makes sense, barring some major battery tech breakthrough, in very few use cases. It's only ever 'green' if like with EVs you ignore how it's built, charged, and scrapped come scrap yard time... and let not talk about resale value in the interim. Comparing a mistreated, poorly maintained 30+ year noisy, leaky diesel to a clean, quiet, and reliable electric install is a common fallacy, you never see it compared to a clean, efficient and much quieter new diesel install... When my 42+ year old white glove maintained diesel finally quits I'll likely drop in another new diesel and take good care of it. Yes I'll hate putting up with the noise vs electric but in exchange I'll have range and higher resale value...
Electric motor is a choice, not an UPGRADE.
It could also be both, or neither. Luckily his video is more informative than your semantics analysis.
this is a very useful video, but its really quiet, im at 100% at windows and 150% in sound booster in browser and its still barely hearable
Thanks for the feedback. It is too quiet. I will do it better in the future. :D
@@openrov272 hope you will manage to make an update before next spring, im getting myself a boat as well
Could you please give me the approximate weight difference going from diesel to electric including fuel
My diesel, universal 5411, wieghted 245 lbs. A full fuel tank weighed about 160lbs. (The universal 5411 is very small for a marine diesel, many catalina 30's had larger, 365 lb, 16 hp version, or a atomic 4 at 437 lbs). In my boat, the electric motor, including mount, was (IIRC) about 50-60lbs. The batteries are 80lbs each, and I have 2. So the total weights are: Diesel - 405 lbs. Electric - 220 lbs.
@@openrov272 nice video, thanks for putting it together... Question, did you find losing that weight/ballast ratio affected your sailboat (in a +'ve or -'ve way)? I guess where your fuel tank was located could also factor into the equation, someone I know added 25lb lead shot bags to the bilge right over the keel which worked good...
Make sure all your heat sink fins are faced upward for proper cooling effect..
Great video. Super informative but not so far into the weeds that it was tedious.
Even more interesting are the comments. Back when "Sailing Uma" and a couple other early-ish EV adopters were converting (maybe five-7 years ago), the comments were full of the usual "old salts" just ripping them on their decision to go all EV, to the point of being insulting and ignorant. It's gratifying to see that enthusiasm and productive consideration seems to have taken over.
10kW motor and 10kWh batteries means with 100% charged batteries you can motor just 1 hour at full power. Not practical and actually ridiculous.
That is at hull speed. The 5 hour range, if no recharge capability mind you, at 4 knots is fine. Solar and wind generation recharging push him all day.
ignorance
@chrisstephens9948 like those that hear the first line of the analysis and stop listening. Then posting a comment making them look as thick as two thick things.
There is a Dutch guy that sailed for 1 month, where he logged 80% overcast or rainy days and ran his boat's electric motor and all of the electronics in his boat without ever needing external electricity to charge his batteries.
Oh well, some will just be so set against change that they cannot accept electric motor with wind and solar regeneration, even as it is being proven.
Someone should ask the dumbass original poster, "how often do you operate your diesel at full speed?"
What a moron.
Easy set up.
Thank you
That's a really good video, thank you for making it. I have a playlist of how I mounted my 10KW inboards by E-Tech into my catamaran's bilges. Used 3D scanner and 3D printer.
Thanks! I haven't had a chance to watch your videos yet, but I plan to!
I converted my Catalina 30 to the same ThunderStruck kit 5 years ago. I recently bought the ODB2 kit and Bluetooth adapter - got everything hooked up but I am having trouble setting up the Torque app to read the output from the controller. Did you have to download special PIDs for the app?
Yes! I think I got them from the link at the bottom of this page: www.thunderstruck-ev.com/can-translator.html
What about regen from sailing.
My current set up won't allow regen. My prop is too small, (I've been told that, realistically, you need a 16" or larger prop for regen) and I believe the space available for a prop on my boat is also too small (for a 16" prop). I will be replacing my prop, so there is some small hope there. :D
@@openrov272 yes to will need to upgrade to a feathering or similar prop. As you want the larger prop for Regen but less drag at slow speeds. I think the real holy grail for electrics is producing enough Regen or solar to charge the small running time to get in and out of the slip as well as house loads. I suspect we will see at a minimum diesel electric hybrids being the norm for all new boats and repowers soon enough.
I suspect if you’re clever and use your noggin, this can be done for a lot less than $10k. Maybe look at the world of golf cars and mobility chairs for lightly used, high-quality components. Second hand 12 V server backup batteries are also a great way to source batteries more affordably, as they are changed out on a schedule, even if they were never pressed into service. Most of these have Samsung or LG cells.
Yep. This can definitely be done for less by reusing stuff!
Jetzt verschulde best video
So is your OBM gasoline driven?
Yes, my dingy outboard is gas, and pushes my sailboat boat at hull speed. So if I need to motor long distances, I'm covered. So far I haven't needed it, since I can motor for 4+ hours (at 3 knots) and that is more than I usually need. :D
This is an excellent video. Like you I also looked everywhere for something like this, and wasn’t able to find one. Thanks for making it.
Thanks!
i was looking for a video like this before...and all i got was a mostly after on a grin install .....i understand the reduction props want tourque.
but i wanted to try to go shaft-less direct for re-gen, and low drag under sail sake, and actually had to design my own 9-phase motor.....
still checking out the way different people are doing it....super video, thank you sir.
Thanks!
@@openrov272 it was really sad at the end though....you did such a good job on everything, but you didn't get a re-gen controller.....i felt your pain dude......just price a re-gen controller out, and see if you can get a partial refund for the used one..
@@openrov272 i mean that's the whole point of an electric drive conversion on a sailboat....i think those Sevcons are all re-gen capable.
@@openrov272Re-Gen Is More Dependent On The Controller Programming ....if you "load" a prop too hard, it won't spin; if you don't load it hard enough, it will just spin .... it's kind of like manual MPPT...so you have to Tweak The Re-Gen Controller Programming........and reductions might be great for forward propulsion, but just as much, they cause a reduction in re-gen....if you have a sevcon , then mess with the re-gen programming under sail....looking for the sweet spot.
The problem with regen for my boat is just that the prop is too small. But my next big project is to make that work one way or another. :D
still no sailing videos? still got i?
Still got it. Still love it. :D I haven't had a chance to do anything worth posting, and the data (in terms of range) hasn't changed. I expect to be able to improve things (with wind data) this spring/summer. Last year was super busy for me and I failed to organize anything beyond day sailing. :D
Thought you did a very good job.
Thanks!
Well done video - Thank you!
Great vid. It took a lot of work, lots of detailed info, Very helpful and really appreciated, Thank you.
Thanks!
You are so concise. I love it
very good indeed -
Thanks!
Outstanding.
Thanks!
Very funny, inspiring informational vid! Thanks for sharing this useful info. Was wondering if anyone ever attempted installing a hybrid electric motor like a Prius C? Might be a dumb que but I'm not very technical so no shame on my end lol. It seems like a great redundant option that can further reduce fuel costs as well as mitigate against lightning storm damages to any onboard electrics. Would greatly value your expert feedback.
There are definitely hybrids out there. I agree they seem like a great Idea. :D I've also seen people use generators on their electric sailboats.
@@openrov272 :- ) Was never a fan of generators purely from the standpoint of the noise they...well... "generate". Part of the reason I support the electric movement actually is for its low noise pollution in such a beautiful, natural environment. To me its a no brainer and as the technology on batteries improves, I don't see why it can't become the standard. Anywho, just my 2 cents.
Where did you source the battery charger
I bought it from : signaturesolar.com/shop-all/batteries/battery-chargers/ :D
Can you recommend a charger for a sealed lead acid battery?
www.sterling-power-usa.com/ These were recommended to me by others. I've installed one on my boat and it has worked well so far!