Siding clamps- amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link) For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY My favorite tool in my shop! www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=ZD0p1c21pRes&variant=43897274630383
Reminds me of my father. He used to build 3 houses every summer from 1970 to about 2005. He did everything except the drywall and roofing as that is very labor intensive. He totally worked alone and was very fast
@@pleasetrylater6832 More like a house every 6 weeks based on the summer lengths in Ohio. When he started in 1970 a 1000 square foot house was acceptable. When he stopped building in the early 2000's They were 1500 sq feet mostly. His niche was building starter homes for young couples that were affordable. He could sell them cheaper by installing much lower end (cheaper) kitchen cabinets and counters. These were items they could upgrade later as their income increased. Just like some car companies make corvettes for the wealthier, others make Honda civics. My dad made lower end priced homes for people starting out. My dad built about 60 houses over that time. I realize the math does not work out from 1970 to 2005 as there were real-estate dry spells where he had to have a heating furnace service business to make ends meet.
I usually don't have a lot of problems with roofing unless there's a lot to tear off (2 layers or more). And I do need a helper to help me stretch out tar paper. Putting on shingles is the easy part. : )
Easily one of the best if not THE best diy videos ever on YT . Thank you for making it simple, no nonsense, mentioning the tools needed and helpful tips. Even ended with humor. This is exactly what I needed. Great job my man!
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement th-cam.com/users/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
I've used the clamps on SmartSide siding. They do work ok, but there is a bit of variability on the thickness of the siding due to the texture. The clamps sometimes slip, which can be really inconvenient when you are working off a ladder! One thing you might consider on future projects: The window trim should be 5/4" so that the edges of the siding are not exposed. There is a 5/4 SmartSide trim product that works great. I sided a house years ago with 3/4 trim and the exposed siding ends, even when faithfully painted, do not hold up as well. Great Video! Thanks.
Hello Greg, great point on the thicker trim! When I did this project I didn't know they made the 5/4. Also the clamps can be a little tricky. I found that I couldn't clamp them down tight, or else the siding would fall through the back of them. Overall, they did work very well I thought. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you, this is only the second siding video I have found online that shows the use of those clamps. I bought a smaller, perfect rectangle house with all flat sides. Built in 1984, on a lake so lots of moisture. The original siding is there, in poor condition and someone slapped hideous vinyl siding over styrofoam a couple years ago. It feels and looks like an old fashioned waterproof plastic diaper and it is bug heaven underneath. Tar paper wrap. I cannot wait to carefully remove everything to inspect the walls and studs for water damage before wrapping it all up, and replacing the awful original windows that were never even flashed I think. I have a concrete foundation, thank goodness. Doing it all myself, with the help of great video instruction like this.
I would advise you to rethink before installing siding yourself especially if you've never done it before. There is not one single video on youtube that shows you how to install it correctly including this guy's. Theyre all hacks. There are already numerous mistakes and this is just one wall. To do it right is more involved than most people think. And if installed incorrectly it will create mold, rot and cause damage to your framing all of which are costly to fix and will compound quickly in an are with a lot of moisture. If you still decide to do it yourself I would recommend you use the best materials available like for housewrap use Hydrogap drainable wrap and for caulking use Quad Max it stays flexible and wont crack and let water in like the cheap stuff. between the trim and the window leave about a 1/4"-3/8" gap and stuff foam backer rod 3/8" deep and fill with caulking. Dont butt the trim up to the window frame like this guy did, it leaves barely any room for caulking. This is really important step because vinyl windows expand and contract and it you have a tiny bead of cheap caulk it will crack and let water in and deteriorate everything a lot faster. VS a 3/8x3/8" bead of high quality caulk which will easily be able to expand and contract providing years of trouble free service. Also preprime and precaulk the cuts on the trim where they butt up to each other. These steps are critical in achieving a solid installation that will last many years trouble free. Flashing above horizontal protrusions like window trim and such is also crucial. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Ive worked many years for siding company in Oregon that doesnt take shortcuts like most people.
Also dont use housewrap at the joints like he did. It is not UV rated for very long and will deteriorate eventually. Instead use 5x7 metal flashing you can pick up a pack of 100 for like 25 bucks at a siding supplier. Caulking the joints is optional but not recommended. instead install with moderate contact or leave 1/16" gap
@@senyashchukin391 I didn't read your whole post but I agree. This guy had no business posting this video. Siding is a trade that takes years to learn, it's an art, not to mention its THEE waterproofing for your house. So "No" you can't "Do It Yourself" and its not cheap. But go ahead, roll the dice, and see if you can keep your house 100% waterproof for the next 30 years. One wrong move could cost you 10,20,$40,000 down the road or more....just pay somebody...
Yeah, Menards is my go to over Home Depot and Lowes. And yes, always a good idea to paint the cut edges. It slows the process down a little, but well worth it!
How has it held up since you installed it, especially the bottom rows? Any cracked paint lines effect at the bottom side of the panels due to moisture absorption? 6 years ago I bought an old house with hip style roof with 2.5 ft overhangs. House had beaded cedar mill look Masonite siding that was face nailed and to many of my contractor's surprise it was still in pretty good shape, despite years of neglect. I couldn't find a matching siding so after remodeling I decided to replace it. When I took off the old siding, I was shocked to see that the only damage was on the bottom front of the first two rows and top rows were as as stiff and clean as brand new. And I really loved the cedar mill look. So now I want to install something similar and LP smart siding is the closest as far as the look goes. But I feel hesitant to use it after reading up all the negative feedback about it. Part of me says if Masonite siding could last on this house, LP siding should be just fine too. However my old siding had a smooth curved shape at the bottom, unlike the LP smart siding's rough shape, which makes me think that it may be more likely to absorb water and hence prone to a quicker failure, if I don't get a good paint coverage fast enough. I suppose those oversized overhangs on the house can only protect it so much. Oddly enough fiber cement siding is about the same price right now but my walls are anything but true or flat, so if needed, the face nailing may be out of question for fiber cement. So I'm looking for some honest feedback and recommendations from homeowner who have installed LP siding.
My LP siding has held up very well. I think any bad reviews you read about LP is from the stuff they made many years ago. The new stuff they make today seems to hold up great! Good luck with your decision!
good clear video. I've done close to a dozen structures now with Hardie (or other) siding. (I have a ranch with lots of cabins) One comment I'd make is that using siding nails on the trim is not ideal. Using them on the trim is unsightly and has to be caulked or something to make it look ok. Try instead to find stainless brad nails, like 2" long that you can use in your brad nail gun. I have a 16 Gauge nail gun, and no problem finding them, but they do make 18 gauge too if that is all you have. I've done this for maybe 5 years or more now and the trim is ON there. You can use extra nails as there is no visible problem. I've pried them off from time to time and for sure they hold well enough to never worry about the trim just "slowly loosening and coming off". By using the brad nails, no need for filling. The hole is small enough that the paint afterwards fills the hold and it becomes "invisible". I try to always use stainless siding nails anyway, (the siding IS constructed with cement and that is quite hard on regular nails, so that rust will show. Stainless keeps that Rust from happening.)
Hello, no I just caulked over the nails and then painted everything. You would have to look really close to tell where the nails are at, and it is kind of hidden under the overhangs as well.
Hello, I just followed how the manufacturer suggested to do it on new construction. Added the battens could help with drainage forsure if any water gets behind the siding.
@@oldhess Soft flashing is 12 inch wide very thick asphaltic tape with one sticky side, that attaches to the head, jamb and sill and wraps around onto the wall to overlap on the tyvek. The hard flashing is galvanized z-flashing at the header, that of which the long vertical leg is attached to the wall just above the window head trim, runs outward across the head trim and has a drip edge that is bent down in front of the head trim. An additional strip of soft flashing runs across the wall above the hard flashing and laps over the long vertical leg of the hard flashing.
he did but i doubt that window will ever see any water unless there is a sprinkler hitting it. should last a good long time tucked way up under that overhang.
Would it be easier to paint the planks first? That way it could be done in a controlled environment and not dependent on weather conditions outdoors? Thank you for the video!
Great video. Why didn't you use the specific metal spacers for the butt joints? Also, I believe your not supposed to finger the OSI caulking after applying.
Thanks! I didn't use the spaces, because I didn't get pre painted siding, so as long as I was going to paint everything, it was easier to paint caulk than the spacers. You might be right on applying the caulk. I just did what I thought looked the best.
I would seriously think about Z flashing and flashing tape over the outlet cover trip. I know its a protected circuit but its a real pain if the GFCI trips everytime it rains. I know becuse ive got one that does this. Granted its not as fancy a box And your vapor cover blocks water intrusion but its cheap insurance. Well worth the effort. You also should have done the window. The main reason for wood rot is poor flashing its worth the effort to add the extra protections. It dosnt take much water to start the rotting process becuse wood behind a outside surface wont dry out as fast then if it wasn't covered up so its best to keep the water away as best as possible.
That’s probably the easiest cheapest way if you don’t have a helper. Just fill the holes when your done. I used clamps but I had to modify them because my siding is the old 12” stuff.
Hello Emaley, I think the air gap all depends on what type of siding you are using. I used L.P. smartside and this is the standard way it is installed in my area. I know some types of siding require the air gap material installed first. It really can vary though!
So what about water between stating strip and foundation? The moisture will be accumulating there getting under start strip and first board... You need to put flashing between foundation/subwall and sliding
This house will have all kind of wood rot and water damage in the future. What always amazes me about TH-cam videos... You find people who make videos and they really don't know what they are doing. They know a little bit... just enough to get it half-assed. There are so many details of this job that are wrong. There are plenty of professional siding videos available, so why does some random guy need to add his two-cents, especially if it not completely right? This Old House and others have videos that show the correct way to put up siding and flash around openings. So why do novices continually go out of their way to contribute faulty how-to videos. You want to side your own house?... Knock yourself out... What compels them to make how-to videos?
Looks just like my detached garage which flooded last year. How do you prevent water from coming in? Shouldn't there be some flashing before you put on the starter piece?
Hello Jack, I didn't use any flashing because I was building off a concrete slab so it doesn't matter if it got wet. If you are getting any flooding it sounds like it might be a grading problem with the ground around your garage.
Been there, done that a few times. Had help buy let him go, spent too much time on his cell phone, in the bath room and late to work. I bought a pair of those clamps, I call them Kenny.
Hi Chad... Hope you can share this info 1. What type of wood do you use? 2. What is the name of the clamp? 3. What is the material of the wall? Wood or cement? Thanks
So when the foundation comes out further than the green plate is it standard to just side to the osb? Because I thought usually the siding should go past the green plate/ treated base of your exterior walls.
Hello, I guess I'm not sure what you would do with that. I have only worked with concrete slab foundation, so the green pressure treated bottom board goes right to the very edge of the slab.
My only question is where did you get those clamps at I'm always making jigs and having to have some one help on each end love the do it your self clamp
You did nice work on that and did your best to weather seal it. You will be replacing it though. That material absorbs moisture like mdf. I have seen that stuff turn to flakes in five years just from humidity, found it while doing an estimate for painting the exterior. Fiber cement tends to last longer, but more time consuming and more difficult to cut. My preference is cedar but much more expensive. Again great job.
After I did this, I saw a heated slab house like mine that had metal flashing that started on the OSB and then wrapped around the 2" pink foam. I should have done that! I am not too worried now though, the siding sticks out far enough so really water wicking back shouldn't be much of an issue, and if it does...The sill 2 by 6's are all pressure treated...time will tell though!
Hello, I'm not sure what 105 drop siding is. I just have house wrap on the outside and did fiberglass batts on the inside between the studs for insulation
Hello Robert, I didn't add any. The siding actually hangs a little lower down then the concrete slab so any water would have to go back and up to get in the house.
What do you think of using the dewalt cordless roofing nailer with the siding attachment? I have a job coming up and I’m debating getting it so I don’t have to deal with a compressor and what not.
Hello, I believe the dewalt attachment is for vinyl siding only, so if that is what you are doing it should work. The siding in this video is LP Smartside, so you would want a dedicated siding nailer for that...good luck!
What are the spacer hanging clamps you used, and what do they set the overlap at? Kind of important to know to figure coverage. If you overlap 1/2" or over lap 3/4" you could land 1 sheet short But also if you do a story stick you could space the laps to land full lap on the last top lap or close enough a trim board covers the gap at the top. Do the hanging clamps adjust?
@@chaddiy3512 Yes I looked at them, but id still do a story stick so I know where my laps tops land on a wall so I don't have to cut out for a window and land on it without adjustment or trimming one of them. Thats what they showed on this old house. I like the trim part you put on the outlet box but look above I made a point about flashing. My house is over 25 years old you really can tell when flashing wasnt done right or poor techniques were used when it was built. Its smart to look at things and why they failed then get at idea how to make them better with just a little extra work. My house has the Abit siding on it. The remedy by the manufacture was to paint it. Trust me ive seen houses by me that got plenty of paint on them and still look like crap. It was a piss poor product. Basically cardboard sheets. Paints only as good as the substrate under it. Back when my house was built they didn't use Typar and the sheting is OSB. Ive got plenty of water damaged wood. Ive seen it on sevral houses. I dont even like treated wood for trim work. The PVC holds up a lot better. It just cost more. But that also depends on what profile you use 2x or 1x Thanks that is a pretty cool tool ill have to buy a pair when I replace my lap siding. You think somone would come out with a system for sheet goods that works just as good. Around here they started to lap the sheet goods insted of using z flashing between sheets with a trim board over them it looks a lot nicer. I say this becuse my house is 2 story with walk out basment so ive got areas 3 and 4 sheets up 10x4 or 9x4
You only nail the top part of the siding? What keeps the bottom from lifting up like with the wind ? I'm because I want to do this to my mobile home. Thank you
Thanks for the video but checked with Hardie website and they say never caulk butt joints only vertical edges against trim or windows. Butt them right up to eachother because it doesn't expand and contract with weather.
You make it look so easy. Im a girl so even bettertobe able to learn from you. Thanks! Oh and awesome I also didnt know about the synthetic fabric dontonow where to buy can search it. Thanks again and Im now going to paint my raw edges. Great tip!
Good luck! It really isn't that hard. The synthetic fabric was just extra roof underlayment I had laying around. You could use metal flashing as well. Just anything to stop water getting in the seems if the caulk begins to fail.
@@chaddiy3512 okay! Im not familiar with metal flashing and the closest my brain will allow me to think of is metal paste for soldering. And Im just being honest and trying to make ya chuckle. So, again my male thinking part of my brain doesnt recall ever hearing of a metal flashing procedure before now. So i suppose I could look it up on you tube. Lol! Although I would love to Thank you for replying its very nice of you. Mostly because I dont ask my neighbors and try not to rely on somebody elses husband brother ect. To figure these things out. I like to learn and I like to be a perfectionist at everything I do. (Unfortunately) So, any and all you can tip me off with is greatly appreciated and I wasnt able to yet attemp my siding venture due to weather conditions here in Mt. This weekend. But, hopefully soon. Again, thank you so very very much.
Nice job. A couple questions. Why didn't you paint you cut ends the same color as the siding? I know even with hardieplank you shouldn't caulk the butt joints as it will still expand and contract. All you should need is the flashing strip. Is there something different about this siding? I assume there will be some expansion and contraction and those caulked butt joints will look bad.
Hi Greg, The siding is just a primed color. If you look at the end of the video you will see everything painted gray. As long as a flexable caulk is used it is fine to do it the way I did. After everything is painted the seams blend in a lot better compared to using the little metal flashing pieces on the butt joints.
for Hardi siding, there shouldn't be that much of a gap when butting your siding....it isn't supposed to shrink or expand....keep it tighter and you won't need to do as much caulking
Glad you mentioned that, I was wondering about that, a young guy at the lumber yard said you don't use those anymore. In the past I used those and put caulk in as I put them on.
Okay couple questions. How did you make sure your first row was straight and level? How did you make sure your siding lines matched up with the other walls?
Hello LivingCountry, I lined up the first row of siding with the bottom of the OSB sheathing. This was new construction on a level concrete slab. As long as I lined it up the same on each wall they all pretty much matched. There is trim on the corners so it really isn't noticeable if the siding is a 1/4 inch higher or lower on one wall compared to the other...Hope that helps!
It's not just strand board. It is smart siding. There is a difference between the two of them. OSB in itself is not. Smart siding is a completely different product
My co-worker has it on his house going on 10 years without issue. You need to be sure to follow the instructions exactly or you will have issues. The only time that I have seen issues is when it is not installed correctly. Especially, when it is too close to the ground.
Thanks! I believe I used 7 inch siding with an 1 1/2 inch over lap. I think the instructions said it had to be a minimum of 1 inch overlap...but make sure to check the instructions before you install.
I didn't have a nail gun to install my cement siding, so I resorted to hand nailing. This didn't work very well. I decided about half way thru the job to predrill nail hole. The bits wore out endlessly because of the abrasiveness of the siding. So whilst drilling, I accidently snapped off yet another drill bit tip. Lo and behold, It worked better broken. So then I went and bot a 24 pack of 1/8 in bits and nipped the tips off all of them. It worked so well that I had no problems predrilling nail holes. Who'd have thot a broken drill bit works better than a sharp one for predrilling holes in concrete siding. Likewise I've found it easier to score and snap the siding instead of fighting with a skill saw.
Thanks for the comment and the tips Terry. All the issues you ran into are the reason I used LP Smartside instead of cement board. The LP cuts just like wood. They both look great once installed though!
Hola me gusto el video y quería saber cómo se llama la traba que le pones para trabar el seiding y nivelarlo esta genial porque te permite trabajar solo
Those look like windows with a built in J-Channel. Did you do anything to seal the gap where vinyl siding would go into the J-channel, or did the window trim fit in that space?
Hello Nathan, I don't remember the windows having the j channel. The lp trim I used just butted up to the sides of the window...they did not go in a channel.
@@chaddiy3512 Chad, I'm trying to understand why you caulk between siding panels but not between siding and window frame. Do you not worry about water seeping in between the siding and the window frame?
If you are able to get trim behind the electrical conduit, why not run the siding under it? The area around the foundation and starter strip is a nightmare. The OSB sheathing will be rotten in no time. The foundation insulation is out further than the siding with absolutely no hard flashing. The OSB sheathing will suck up water like a straw and the foundation will be wet. It's easy to cut siding and nail it to a house, but it's the waterproofing details that will ultimately protect the house, and this is done all wrong.
Hi Tim, the paint is to protect the siding in case water ever gets in the seams. The starter strip is so the first piece of full siding doesn't sit flat on the wall. You want it to match the overlap angle that will be on ever other piece.
Siding clamps- amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
For my 3D Printed tools and digital plans- www.etsy.com/shop/ChadDIY
My favorite tool in my shop! www.xtool.com/products/portable-diode-laserbox-d1-for-laser-engraving-laser-cutting?ref=ZD0p1c21pRes&variant=43897274630383
Thank you! Everyone else didn't show first board placement! You also showed how to do seams. You are amazing!!
Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful!
That's the first ive seen lp spliced that way, they make a splice to cover the seams. Ive seen concrete board done like that tho!
That's not how you do seams. Hope you watched another video
LP makes joint clips to hide your joints
Reminds me of my father. He used to build 3 houses every summer from 1970 to about 2005. He did everything except the drywall and roofing as that is very labor intensive. He totally worked alone and was very fast
Wow, That is very impressive to do 3 houses a summer. He must have been a hard working to get that all done by himself!
Building the house is labor intensive lmao
@@pleasetrylater6832 More like a house every 6 weeks based on the summer lengths in Ohio. When he started in 1970 a 1000 square foot house was acceptable. When he stopped building in the early 2000's They were 1500 sq feet mostly. His niche was building starter homes for young couples that were affordable. He could sell them cheaper by installing much lower end (cheaper) kitchen cabinets and counters. These were items they could upgrade later as their income increased. Just like some car companies make corvettes for the wealthier, others make
Honda civics. My dad made lower end priced homes for people starting out. My dad built about 60 houses over that time. I realize the math does not work out from 1970 to 2005 as there were real-estate dry spells where he had to have a heating furnace service business to make ends meet.
I usually don't have a lot of problems with roofing unless there's a lot to tear off (2 layers or more). And I do need a helper to help me stretch out tar paper. Putting on shingles is the easy part. : )
@@lazybbones Humping the bundles up a ladder can be brutal
Easily one of the best if not THE best diy videos ever on YT . Thank you for making it simple, no nonsense, mentioning the tools needed and helpful tips. Even ended with humor. This is exactly what I needed. Great job my man!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words!
@@chaddiy3512 you're welcome 🙂
As an amateur with woodworker, i typically feel overpowered with the entire arrangement th-cam.com/users/postUgkxrYREG3-7f1Aqk9ams3ZESRNzGnfdUtyQ . Be that as it may, this arrangements drove me through with much clarity and effortlessness woodplans. Works i now work like a genius. That is great!
This is the best instructional video on installing siding that I have seen. Thanks.
Thanks...I appreciate the comment!
Excellent video!!! You get right to the point and show :"how to" very well and easy to understand. Thank you for the great tips! Jim
Thanks Jim for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!
Thank you. Very helpful to me since I've never sided a house before. You make it look easy.
Glad I could help!
You have the gift of teaching! Very well explained. Thank you brother for sharing! You have a new subscriber.
I appreciate the kind words, and thanks for subscribing!
I've used the clamps on SmartSide siding. They do work ok, but there is a bit of variability on the thickness of the siding due to the texture. The clamps sometimes slip, which can be really inconvenient when you are working off a ladder! One thing you might consider on future projects: The window trim should be 5/4" so that the edges of the siding are not exposed. There is a 5/4 SmartSide trim product that works great. I sided a house years ago with 3/4 trim and the exposed siding ends, even when faithfully painted, do not hold up as well. Great Video! Thanks.
Hello Greg, great point on the thicker trim! When I did this project I didn't know they made the 5/4. Also the clamps can be a little tricky. I found that I couldn't clamp them down tight, or else the siding would fall through the back of them. Overall, they did work very well I thought. Thanks for the comment!
@@chaddiy3512 Yup...I've had them fall through the back too, but this is the best solo solution I've found.
Thank you, this is only the second siding video I have found online that shows the use of those clamps. I bought a smaller, perfect rectangle house with all flat sides. Built in 1984, on a lake so lots of moisture. The original siding is there, in poor condition and someone slapped hideous vinyl siding over styrofoam a couple years ago. It feels and looks like an old fashioned waterproof plastic diaper and it is bug heaven underneath. Tar paper wrap. I cannot wait to carefully remove everything to inspect the walls and studs for water damage before wrapping it all up, and replacing the awful original windows that were never even flashed I think. I have a concrete foundation, thank goodness. Doing it all myself, with the help of great video instruction like this.
Hello Shari, glad my video can help. It really is a pretty easy job with the clamps. Good luck on your project!
I would advise you to rethink before installing siding yourself especially if you've never done it before. There is not one single video on youtube that shows you how to install it correctly including this guy's. Theyre all hacks. There are already numerous mistakes and this is just one wall. To do it right is more involved than most people think. And if installed incorrectly it will create mold, rot and cause damage to your framing all of which are costly to fix and will compound quickly in an are with a lot of moisture. If you still decide to do it yourself I would recommend you use the best materials available like for housewrap use Hydrogap drainable wrap and for caulking use Quad Max it stays flexible and wont crack and let water in like the cheap stuff. between the trim and the window leave about a 1/4"-3/8" gap and stuff foam backer rod 3/8" deep and fill with caulking. Dont butt the trim up to the window frame like this guy did, it leaves barely any room for caulking. This is really important step because vinyl windows expand and contract and it you have a tiny bead of cheap caulk it will crack and let water in and deteriorate everything a lot faster. VS a 3/8x3/8" bead of high quality caulk which will easily be able to expand and contract providing years of trouble free service. Also preprime and precaulk the cuts on the trim where they butt up to each other. These steps are critical in achieving a solid installation that will last many years trouble free. Flashing above horizontal protrusions like window trim and such is also crucial. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Ive worked many years for siding company in Oregon that doesnt take shortcuts like most people.
Also dont use housewrap at the joints like he did. It is not UV rated for very long and will deteriorate eventually. Instead use 5x7 metal flashing you can pick up a pack of 100 for like 25 bucks at a siding supplier. Caulking the joints is optional but not recommended. instead install with moderate contact or leave 1/16" gap
I also own a home like this. Original siding is cedar, with the tar wrap. Really would like to redo it. Love the look, but it is in bad shape.
@@senyashchukin391 I didn't read your whole post but I agree. This guy had no business posting this video. Siding is a trade that takes years to learn, it's an art, not to mention its THEE waterproofing for your house. So "No" you can't "Do It Yourself" and its not cheap. But go ahead, roll the dice, and see if you can keep your house 100% waterproof for the next 30 years. One wrong move could cost you 10,20,$40,000 down the road or more....just pay somebody...
Very helpful video. I'm going to be redoing my 100 year old clapboard sided building with Hardie siding. This gives me some great ideas. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Man I wish I had a Menards in our hood. Good call on painting the cut edges! Textbook LP installation!!👍👍
Yeah, Menards is my go to over Home Depot and Lowes. And yes, always a good idea to paint the cut edges. It slows the process down a little, but well worth it!
Menards is great
True craftsmanship standards Always prime/paint all 6 sides before reinstalling.
@@chaddiy3512 what does the paint do to the cut edges, help with moisture resistant?
Thanks for sharing. Those clamps are a life saver.
The clamps a re for sure the way to go...even if you have help on your siding project!
Thanks Chad!! This is great, I plan on buying a house and am learning to do these things by myself.
Nice work. Love the multi use tool you have... the saw horse/wheelbarrow combo kit... nice!
Ha, thanks!...got to use what you have!!
Awesome work! It looks easier than I thought.
Thanks, and yes...it is pretty easy!
How has it held up since you installed it, especially the bottom rows? Any cracked paint lines effect at the bottom side of the panels due to moisture absorption? 6 years ago I bought an old house with hip style roof with 2.5 ft overhangs. House had beaded cedar mill look Masonite siding that was face nailed and to many of my contractor's surprise it was still in pretty good shape, despite years of neglect. I couldn't find a matching siding so after remodeling I decided to replace it. When I took off the old siding, I was shocked to see that the only damage was on the bottom front of the first two rows and top rows were as as stiff and clean as brand new. And I really loved the cedar mill look. So now I want to install something similar and LP smart siding is the closest as far as the look goes. But I feel hesitant to use it after reading up all the negative feedback about it. Part of me says if Masonite siding could last on this house, LP siding should be just fine too. However my old siding had a smooth curved shape at the bottom, unlike the LP smart siding's rough shape, which makes me think that it may be more likely to absorb water and hence prone to a quicker failure, if I don't get a good paint coverage fast enough. I suppose those oversized overhangs on the house can only protect it so much. Oddly enough fiber cement siding is about the same price right now but my walls are anything but true or flat, so if needed, the face nailing may be out of question for fiber cement. So I'm looking for some honest feedback and recommendations from homeowner who have installed LP siding.
My LP siding has held up very well. I think any bad reviews you read about LP is from the stuff they made many years ago. The new stuff they make today seems to hold up great! Good luck with your decision!
Wow fancy level action. Caught it
Where I live, you must strap behind the siding unless it's vinyl. Installing
LP Smart Siding without strapping voids the warranty.
good clear video. I've done close to a dozen structures now with Hardie (or other) siding. (I have a ranch with lots of cabins) One comment I'd make is that using siding nails on the trim is not ideal. Using them on the trim is unsightly and has to be caulked or something to make it look ok. Try instead to find stainless brad nails, like 2" long that you can use in your brad nail gun. I have a 16 Gauge nail gun, and no problem finding them, but they do make 18 gauge too if that is all you have. I've done this for maybe 5 years or more now and the trim is ON there. You can use extra nails as there is no visible problem. I've pried them off from time to time and for sure they hold well enough to never worry about the trim just "slowly loosening and coming off". By using the brad nails, no need for filling. The hole is small enough that the paint afterwards fills the hold and it becomes "invisible". I try to always use stainless siding nails anyway, (the siding IS constructed with cement and that is quite hard on regular nails, so that rust will show. Stainless keeps that Rust from happening.)
Hey, thanks for sharing that advice. Hopefully everyone will read it that are trying to learn how to side thier house!
real professional, I like the way you Mark the studs I thought I was the only one that did that, good video.
Thanks Greg, to me...marking the studs is a must so you don't have to nail blindly. Thanks for watching!
Lol the only one huh
Where’s the Z channel flashing above the window or around the electrical box? No laser/chalk line or level on the first row?
The top piece wasn't shown. Did you put a vinyl finishing piece to cover up the last set of nails?
Hello, no I just caulked over the nails and then painted everything. You would have to look really close to tell where the nails are at, and it is kind of hidden under the overhangs as well.
Great job! Why didn't U put battens in for ventilation drainage between the wall and the panels??
Hello, I just followed how the manufacturer suggested to do it on new construction. Added the battens could help with drainage forsure if any water gets behind the siding.
Nice job. You made it look easy. Thank you.
Thank you for the comment...appreciate it!
Where is the flashing on the bottom of your siding?
Thanks! Straight forward for my review. :) Love the clamps. was not on my radar.
Thanks for the comment Barry, and glad the clamps are on your radar now...They make all the difference!
Nice video made it look so easy and professional
Glad you liked it!
You left out the hard flashing over the window and both the hard and soft flashing at the electrical outlet.
So for those of us non siders what is the hard flashing and soft flashing?
@@oldhess Soft flashing is 12 inch wide very thick asphaltic tape with one sticky side, that attaches to the head, jamb and sill and wraps around onto the wall to overlap on the tyvek. The hard flashing is galvanized z-flashing at the header, that of which the long vertical leg is attached to the wall just above the window head trim, runs outward across the head trim and has a drip edge that is bent down in front of the head trim. An additional strip of soft flashing runs across the wall above the hard flashing and laps over the long vertical leg of the hard flashing.
screamdoctor he forgot the 1/12
I like how non of u know what ur talking about
he did but i doubt that window will ever see any water unless there is a sprinkler hitting it. should last a good long time tucked way up under that overhang.
Would it be easier to paint the planks first? That way it could be done in a controlled environment and not dependent on weather conditions outdoors?
Thank you for the video!
Yep, it would be easier! If I did it again I would just have bought the prepainted stuff and not have to paint myself at all!
This video is probably the best "how to siding" video Ive come across. Wish you had made a soffit and fascia video!!!
Thanks Nathan, I appreciate that!
Awesome video brother thank you for the lesson and the sharing of the word 🤙🏽🌸
Looks great - outstanding job.
Thank you very much!
I've done this before on a 16x20 addition of a screened in porch converted to room. Not a bad job
Upload a video
Just in the middle of doing this exact job myself
good use of roofing nailer....2 3/8 in nails better for siding. framing nailer with adjustment so head flushes to wood surface
I thought I was seeing things. He said "siding" nailer. But don't mistake my comment, I've done that. I just thought he actually had one. 😅😅😅
Nice work Chad. A link to purchase those nice clamps would be helpful. You sure made that siding job look easy.
Thanks! Here is a link to the clamps I used! amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)
Great video. Why didn't you use the specific metal spacers for the butt joints? Also, I believe your not supposed to finger the OSI caulking after applying.
Thanks! I didn't use the spaces, because I didn't get pre painted siding, so as long as I was going to paint everything, it was easier to paint caulk than the spacers. You might be right on applying the caulk. I just did what I thought looked the best.
I would seriously think about Z flashing and flashing tape over the outlet cover trip. I know its a protected circuit but its a real pain if the GFCI trips everytime it rains. I know becuse ive got one that does this. Granted its not as fancy a box
And your vapor cover blocks water intrusion but its cheap insurance. Well worth the effort. You also should have done the window. The main reason for wood rot is poor flashing its worth the effort to add the extra protections.
It dosnt take much water to start the rotting process becuse wood behind a outside surface wont dry out as fast then if it wasn't covered up so its best to keep the water away as best as possible.
I need those clamps. I have a one man paint and siding project coming up.
The clamps will be a huge help for you...good luck!
where did you got those clamps..home depo or Lowe's????
Use a nail the to hold the siding
That’s probably the easiest cheapest way if you don’t have a helper. Just fill the holes when your done. I used clamps but I had to modify them because my siding is the old 12” stuff.
ok, so maybe the Typar is not "flat" but what about a proper air gap or rain screen for moisture?
Hello Emaley, I think the air gap all depends on what type of siding you are using. I used L.P. smartside and this is the standard way it is installed in my area. I know some types of siding require the air gap material installed first. It really can vary though!
Very nice. Love the clamps. Where can I buy them? Thx for your video
amazon
So what about water between stating strip and foundation? The moisture will be accumulating there getting under start strip and first board... You need to put flashing between foundation/subwall and sliding
This house will have all kind of wood rot and water damage in the future. What always amazes me about TH-cam videos... You find people who make videos and they really don't know what they are doing. They know a little bit... just enough to get it half-assed. There are so many details of this job that are wrong. There are plenty of professional siding videos available, so why does some random guy need to add his two-cents, especially if it not completely right? This Old House and others have videos that show the correct way to put up siding and flash around openings. So why do novices continually go out of their way to contribute faulty how-to videos. You want to side your own house?... Knock yourself out... What compels them to make how-to videos?
You make this look so easy! 😲 very helpful and much appreciated!
Glad I could help!
Convinced I could do this as a 19 year old girl
🤌🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾
Go for it!
This is smart siding , on James hardie you don’t have to caulk the seams, so I’m guessing you do on smart siding?
This is Smart siding
do you ever use spray foam behind the backing to further insulate the wall?
Hello, I wouldn't use spray foam, but many people do install foam sheets before they put the siding up.
Looks just like my detached garage which flooded last year. How do you prevent water from coming in? Shouldn't there be some flashing before you put on the starter piece?
Hello Jack, I didn't use any flashing because I was building off a concrete slab so it doesn't matter if it got wet. If you are getting any flooding it sounds like it might be a grading problem with the ground around your garage.
Can you use a floor or pallets with this? I'm thinking I'll use it to store moving boxes and furniture.
Thanks I got those clamps for my brother they work great
The clamps really do make it so much easier!
What's the name of the clamp?
Been there, done that a few times. Had help buy let him go, spent too much time on his cell phone, in the bath room and late to work. I bought a pair of those clamps, I call them Kenny.
Love the story! And good idea naming them Kenny!
Lol was that the name of the helper too that u let go
That's what I was wondering as well!
Nice video. I'm always looking for ways to work by myself. I'm about to start my second building, and I had little help with the first one.
Thanks for watching Richard, and good luck on your second building!
Great work thanks i seen sole comment people hating thats what people do, and i bet they dont have a single video of themselves doing it.
Thanks Ricardo! yeah, there is always a lot of hate on youtube...very true about the haters never having any videos of their own!
Good job !!! The clamps make it nice !
Thanks Dean...the clamps are the way to go!
Hi Chad... Hope you can share this info
1. What type of wood do you use?
2. What is the name of the clamp?
3. What is the material of the wall? Wood or cement?
Thanks
Hello, this is L.P. Smartside and I used gecko siding clamps. The wall material is OSB...hope that helps!
Best video on TH-cam dude 👍
Thanks, I appreciate it!
So when the foundation comes out further than the green plate is it standard to just side to the osb? Because I thought usually the siding should go past the green plate/ treated base of your exterior walls.
Hello, I guess I'm not sure what you would do with that. I have only worked with concrete slab foundation, so the green pressure treated bottom board goes right to the very edge of the slab.
amazing. looks great. it was so easy.
Thanks!
My only question is where did you get those clamps at I'm always making jigs and having to have some one help on each end love the do it your self clamp
Hello, you can get the clamps on Amazon. They are called Gecko clamps. Thanks for the comment!
You did nice work on that and did your best to weather seal it. You will be replacing it though. That material absorbs moisture like mdf. I have seen that stuff turn to flakes in five years just from humidity, found it while doing an estimate for painting the exterior. Fiber cement tends to last longer, but more time consuming and more difficult to cut. My preference is cedar but much more expensive. Again great job.
I've seen LP Snart Siding immersed in a bucket of water for longer than a month to no ill effect.
I’ve read that we’re not supposed tape the bottom of the window for water to have a place to escape should water infiltrate?
Hi Josh, That might be true. I just did it the way I saw a few others do it on youtube...You should do it however you think best!
why is there not a metal flashing under the Starting Strip ???
For sure. Need to cap that foundation.
@@johnd9541 --you mean what I call a (Metal termite barrier)--- If is a poured concrete base -No need in the townships code !
code is minimum standard. You want to divert water away from the sill area which could wick back into the framing members/sill plate.
After I did this, I saw a heated slab house like mine that had metal flashing that started on the OSB and then wrapped around the 2" pink foam. I should have done that! I am not too worried now though, the siding sticks out far enough so really water wicking back shouldn't be much of an issue, and if it does...The sill 2 by 6's are all pressure treated...time will tell though!
@@chaddiy3512 you could try some non-expanding foam, then paint it.
Looks real nice
What a great job what type of siding nailer did you use can you please let me know and the nails thank you.
Thanks! and here is the affiliate link for the nailer I used amzn.to/2H8GeiI
Also, I believe I used 2 inch nails from the same brand as the nailer.
You made that look sooo easy!!!
Hello Chad, nice video. Will those clamps work with 105 drop siding? Also, did you make a video on the insulation installation?
Hello, I'm not sure what 105 drop siding is. I just have house wrap on the outside and did fiberglass batts on the inside between the studs for insulation
Is this fiber cement siding or masonite siding? If is fiber cement siding did you have to use special nails for the nail gun?
It is LP Smartside which is a wood based product, no special tools to work with it and it holds up great!
No link to those nifty clamps?
You don’t need some kind of drip edge flashing along the bottom layer?
Hello Robert, I didn't add any. The siding actually hangs a little lower down then the concrete slab so any water would have to go back and up to get in the house.
Chad DIY I wonder about wood siding coming in direct contact with water porous concrete. If it was concrete fiber board I’d say no big deal.
Yeah, it might rot over time. That is why the only wood that should touch concrete is pressure treated.
What do you think of using the dewalt cordless roofing nailer with the siding attachment? I have a job coming up and I’m debating getting it so I don’t have to deal with a compressor and what not.
Hello, I believe the dewalt attachment is for vinyl siding only, so if that is what you are doing it should work. The siding in this video is LP Smartside, so you would want a dedicated siding nailer for that...good luck!
What are the spacer hanging clamps you used, and what do they set the overlap at?
Kind of important to know to figure coverage. If you overlap 1/2" or over lap 3/4" you could land 1 sheet short
But also if you do a story stick you could space the laps to land full lap on the last top lap or close enough a trim board covers the gap at the top.
Do the hanging clamps adjust?
They are called gecko clamps, they are completely adjustable to leave any size overlap you want. They really work great!
@@chaddiy3512
Yes I looked at them, but id still do a story stick so I know where my laps tops land on a wall so I don't have to cut out for a window and land on it without adjustment or trimming one of them.
Thats what they showed on this old house.
I like the trim part you put on the outlet box but look above I made a point about flashing.
My house is over 25 years old you really can tell when flashing wasnt done right or poor techniques were used when it was built. Its smart to look at things and why they failed then get at idea how to make them better with just a little extra work.
My house has the Abit siding on it.
The remedy by the manufacture was to paint it. Trust me ive seen houses by me that got plenty of paint on them and still look like crap. It was a piss poor product. Basically cardboard sheets.
Paints only as good as the substrate under it. Back when my house was built they didn't use Typar and the sheting is OSB. Ive got plenty of water damaged wood. Ive seen it on sevral houses.
I dont even like treated wood for trim work. The PVC holds up a lot better.
It just cost more. But that also depends on what profile you use 2x or 1x
Thanks that is a pretty cool tool ill have to buy a pair when I replace my lap siding.
You think somone would come out with a system for sheet goods that works just as good. Around here they started to lap the sheet goods insted of using z flashing between sheets with a trim board over them it looks a lot nicer.
I say this becuse my house is 2 story with walk out basment so ive got areas 3 and 4 sheets up 10x4 or 9x4
Beautiful work
Thanks!
You only nail the top part of the siding? What keeps the bottom from lifting up like with the wind ? I'm because I want to do this to my mobile home. Thank you
Hello Sergio, you only need to nail the top. The boards are very stiff so the wind will not lift them. Good luck!
I'm always interested in learning new things.
That is why youtube is so great!
No flashing on the bottom?? Or furring in between?
Great video. I am going to be replacing cedar bevel siding. How should I handle the butt joints?
Hello, I'm not sure how you do butt joints with cedar. I don't think you caulk them...maybe just a flashing material behind each joint.
Thanks for the video but checked with Hardie website and they say never caulk butt joints only vertical edges against trim or windows. Butt them right up to eachother because it doesn't expand and contract with weather.
This is not Hardy siding, it is L.P. smartside...i totally different product with different install instructions.
You make it look so easy. Im a girl so even bettertobe able to learn from you. Thanks! Oh and awesome I also didnt know about the synthetic fabric dontonow where to buy can search it. Thanks again and Im now going to paint my raw edges. Great tip!
Good luck! It really isn't that hard. The synthetic fabric was just extra roof underlayment I had laying around. You could use metal flashing as well. Just anything to stop water getting in the seems if the caulk begins to fail.
@@chaddiy3512 okay! Im not familiar with metal flashing and the closest my brain will allow me to think of is metal paste for soldering. And Im just being honest and trying to make ya chuckle. So, again my male thinking part of my brain doesnt recall ever hearing of a metal flashing procedure before now. So i suppose I could look it up on you tube. Lol! Although I would love to Thank you for replying its very nice of you. Mostly because I dont ask my neighbors and try not to rely on somebody elses husband brother ect. To figure these things out. I like to learn and I like to be a perfectionist at everything I do. (Unfortunately) So, any and all you can tip me off with is greatly appreciated and I wasnt able to yet attemp my siding venture due to weather conditions here in Mt. This weekend. But, hopefully soon. Again, thank you so very very much.
very nice job
Nice job. A couple questions. Why didn't you paint you cut ends the same color as the siding? I know even with hardieplank you shouldn't caulk the butt joints as it will still expand and contract. All you should need is the flashing strip. Is there something different about this siding? I assume there will be some expansion and contraction and those caulked butt joints will look bad.
Hi Greg, The siding is just a primed color. If you look at the end of the video you will see everything painted gray. As long as a flexable caulk is used it is fine to do it the way I did. After everything is painted the seams blend in a lot better compared to using the little metal flashing pieces on the butt joints.
for Hardi siding, there shouldn't be that much of a gap when butting your siding....it isn't supposed to shrink or expand....keep it tighter and you won't need to do as much caulking
That is true for Hardie, but this is LP Smartside. A totally different product with different installation requirements.
Are there other things to consider when dealing with a 1930s home?
You can also use join covers instead of caulking.
This is true!...it works well with prepainted siding.
Indeed! I build houses for a living and my trimmers use joint covers and corners. Cool video
Glad you mentioned that, I was wondering about that, a young guy at the lumber yard said you don't use those anymore. In the past I used those and put caulk in as I put them on.
They sell outlet trim premade
Thanks for the info Becky!
Okay couple questions. How did you make sure your first row was straight and level? How did you make sure your siding lines matched up with the other walls?
Hello LivingCountry, I lined up the first row of siding with the bottom of the OSB sheathing. This was new construction on a level concrete slab. As long as I lined it up the same on each wall they all pretty much matched. There is trim on the corners so it really isn't noticeable if the siding is a 1/4 inch higher or lower on one wall compared to the other...Hope that helps!
That siding is just strand board. Doesn’t seem like it would be very durable.
It's not just strand board. It is smart siding. There is a difference between the two of them. OSB in itself is not. Smart siding is a completely different product
Smartside has changed the game indeed!
@@speedgonzalez489 actual it's the same thing the difference is smart side got a finish texture.
My co-worker has it on his house going on 10 years without issue. You need to be sure to follow the instructions exactly or you will have issues. The only time that I have seen issues is when it is not installed correctly. Especially, when it is too close to the ground.
That siding is shit
No frieze board ?
Yeah thats what im here to see
Great video, what size siding were you using and what over lap or reveal did you use?
Thanks! I believe I used 7 inch siding with an 1 1/2 inch over lap. I think the instructions said it had to be a minimum of 1 inch overlap...but make sure to check the instructions before you install.
I didn't have a nail gun to install my cement siding, so I resorted to hand nailing. This didn't work very well. I decided about half way thru the job to predrill nail hole. The bits wore out endlessly because of the abrasiveness of the siding. So whilst drilling, I accidently snapped off yet another drill bit tip. Lo and behold, It worked better broken. So then I went and bot a 24 pack of 1/8 in bits and nipped the tips off all of them. It worked so well that I had no problems predrilling nail holes. Who'd have thot a broken drill bit works better than a sharp one for predrilling holes in concrete siding. Likewise I've found it easier to score and snap the siding instead of fighting with a skill saw.
Thanks for the comment and the tips Terry. All the issues you ran into are the reason I used LP Smartside instead of cement board. The LP cuts just like wood. They both look great once installed though!
That's what I do. Goes faster if you stack 3 boards to drill
NICE WORK, SIR... AND THANKS FOR THE HOW TO DO KNOWLEDGE!💯💪💪
Glad I could help!
Hola me gusto el video y quería saber cómo se llama la traba que le pones para trabar el seiding y nivelarlo esta genial porque te permite trabajar solo
Es un canal en ingles amigo no te va a entender
Pero se llaman PacTool Gecko Gauges
Saludos desde Texas
Those look like windows with a built in J-Channel. Did you do anything to seal the gap where vinyl siding would go into the J-channel, or did the window trim fit in that space?
Hello Nathan, I don't remember the windows having the j channel. The lp trim I used just butted up to the sides of the window...they did not go in a channel.
@@chaddiy3512 Chad, I'm trying to understand why you caulk between siding panels but not between siding and window frame. Do you not worry about water seeping in between the siding and the window frame?
What Is the clamp thing called 🤔. Great video!
Thanks for the comment. The clamps I used are called gecko clamps. The link should be in the description.
If you are able to get trim behind the electrical conduit, why not run the siding under it? The area around the foundation and starter strip is a nightmare. The OSB sheathing will be rotten in no time. The foundation insulation is out further than the siding with absolutely no hard flashing. The OSB sheathing will suck up water like a straw and the foundation will be wet. It's easy to cut siding and nail it to a house, but it's the waterproofing details that will ultimately protect the house, and this is done all wrong.
Please show install of house wrap.
Sorry I did not include that in the video. The way I put my up was just with a hammer stapler...went pretty fast!
Why use a nail gun? Did you keep space between head of the nail side of the house???
I used the nail gun because it is so fast. Not sure what you mean by space between head of nail.
What happens if you punch an exterior wall please answer
Wow such wonderful job easy not complicated I love thank u for such great work
Thanks for watching!
Hello what size nails did you use for the air gun? And where did you get the clamp guide
If you take down the old siding and find there is no insulation, can you insulate without having to go inside the house and tear out drywall?
Lawomenshoops yes, but you have to take off any weather seal paper!
I don’t understand why painting the cuts is necessary prior to install.
Also, I don’t understand the starter strip
Hi Tim, the paint is to protect the siding in case water ever gets in the seams. The starter strip is so the first piece of full siding doesn't sit flat on the wall. You want it to match the overlap angle that will be on ever other piece.
@@chaddiy3512 Thank you so much. Obvious now but the questions were bugging me.