James Hardie Installation Guide brought to you by Northville Lumber
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มี.ค. 2021
- Trust the siding experts at Northville Lumber to help you sort through all of the options to find the perfect balance of beauty and durability to give your house a look you’ll love to come home to. When it comes to your home’s exterior, you shouldn’t have to sacrifice beauty for durability.
Great news for homeowners! There have never been more choices for exterior siding and trim. But how do you decide when each product has seemingly unlimited textures, profiles and even colors; and then there are the considerations related to cost, reliability, maintenance and even environmental responsibility.
With endless combinations, superior engineering and ColorPlus® Technology, it’s no wonder that fiber cement siding is growing in popularity. Made from a proprietary mix of sand, cement and cellulose fibers, James Hardie siding can be purchased as lap (aka clapboards), shingles, stucco or board and batten siding. Fiber cement siding readily accepts paint, and is available in an array of factory-applied finishes. At Northville Lumber, we partner with James Hardie, the recognized leader in fiber cement exterior products. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I put Hardie on parts of my house 16 years ago... Took paint like a champ, and it looks brand new still... Love the product...
I’m glad I’ve been doing everything right but it’s good to know the clearance numbers so you sound more professional when a homeowner asks
Very informative and great graphics, Thanks!
very professional !
Love this little lumber yard in Michigan
Down to the point and not a lot of rambling well done.
How did run around trim aorund pipe line and receptacles? I didn't see in you video. Excellent job man... Thanks
You have to block it out like any other penetration
This was very well done and you had a lot of good information. Thanks
He did a great job of presenting and knew his stuff.
Thank You Sir 👍
Ordered 9 pieces of sample Hardie Board invited 4 different contractors who attempted to sell me various vinyl products, as soon as I asked if they were trained skilled to install Hardie Board with homeowner references not 1 gave me a straight answer but I heard 3 of them say if water saturates the underboard unfinished side over time the Board will fail breakdown and mold. These were licensed NJ MIDDLESEX COUNTY companies only 1cstated that he had installed it. So citizens I took 3 of my samples placed them in a 5 gallon bucket filled it halfway with water left the bucket outside with the boards inside for 2 weeks exposed to rain . I took them out after 2 weeks straight submerged in water. NO CHANGE IN THE BOARD. April 2023 Hardie Board is going up on me home.
I used it for an addition on my home in 2008, and as an accent wall on the front as part of that remodel I did. It's 2023 now and it still looks brand new. I clean/low-pressure wash it once a year, and I've repainted (new paint color as the reason) once in that time frame. The stuff is great.
Just be sure to use a rain screen behind it! Don't just slap it over top your house wrap. Use a rain screen! I also nailed mine every 8 inches hoping for a bit more wind uplift resistance since in my area we do get some regular high wind gust conditions.
Having problems painting.
It's already primed but I know it's mass produced so I covered with some Sherwin-Williams primer their best waited a day.
Then proceeded to paint waited till the next day looked at the paint it was flashing shiny in some spots and dull in others ?
Temp out side 50!-60
Humidity don't know live by ocean
Checked with a moisture reader before painting on the board all good.
I need help with the OPPOSITE. I have a screened in porch and need to renail the screen so I am trying to remove the trim boards. How do I do it? I can send you a pic but the board (hardie plank) has hardieplank siding up against it. I GUESS there is caulking between the board and the hardieplank so should I use a razor and then try to pop the board off going north to south using a claw bar ??
what should you do with the top of the trim if no caulk?
Thank you!
Thanks. Great info for the dyi guy.
4:10 I'm trying to figure out, how do you finish the last/top board?
2:11 flashing over window... How do you treat that overhang where it meets or penetrates into the hardie board... Same for L flashing against the brick and under the trim...
A BOOGER OF URETHANE
Don’t you have to face nail the window trim and edges?
I think I enjoy the comments more ...
Can they install this siding right over the top of the old asbestos siding they used to make or will they need to wrap it first?
It is recommended to wrap the house first when encapsulating asbestos.
Looking for info on what nails to use.
Any idea how to get some Artisan, lap, 8.25, smooth - - - looking for 2,300 sq ft for my builder. Help - I think a finder's fee would be in order if you, or anyone else can find for me.
Is that information card accessible?
My house was built with Jame Hardie siding in 2004. IT EXPANDS AND CONTRACTS IN HEAT AND COLD. Anyone who says different is NOT being honest.
It is designed that way
Never butt joint together
@@JeffN-A But the guy just said it does NOT expand / contract. Assuredly it does.
@@maddierosemusic It has too. We both know he is wrong and if he did not allow for it, he's porked haha
@@maddierosemusic Yes he did say that it did not expand. He recommends leaving 1/8th inch and that allows for the expansion. That would depend also on what time of year you did your install and the amount of rainfall. Concrete is porous and can expand in cold and can shrink in cold, depends on the moisture in the air and rainfall.
2:04... How are you keeping water out of that lowest flashing piece...
where do you find joint flashing. I've looked at every store and not one sells it.
Our subcontractor failed to nail the James Hardy sliding into the studs. They randomly nailed it into the OBS, most nails missing the studs. A suggestion was made that the nails could be bent over on the inside of the wall. Is this practice acceptable or would it impact the warranty?
You are screwed when it expands.
gauge size of flashing? thanks
Should you install hardie when it's 20 or lower outside. It's been 12 degrees lately and gets up to 25.
What's your summers get up to? He's 100% wrong about thermal expansion on Hardie
Which exterior caulk would you recommend using for the (cut end) of the Hardie siding for the trim/window?
I second this question
Quadmax
I used urethane caulk, but then I used primed siding and painted it. Urethane caulk tends to attract dirt if left unpainted. It is super flexible, though.
Anything but quadmax sucks and will fail prematurely.
@@machintelligence you are correct. I always use polyurethane because it's very flexible and it helps with the expansion. It does attract dirt put it's a good option to caulk then paint and eliminates the issue with dirt.
Where online can i get the pin applicator
Why was there no Z flashing installed above the window and door trim? ~4:00-5:00
There’s is Z flashing installed but don’t apply caulking
I caught that as well, tsk tsk!
So what if there is no Z trim above the window on the horizontal trim, do we caulk it?
If there is no Z flashing above the window then yes, it needs to be caulked.
I was hoping this video would show what blade to use to cut it and what type of nails to use to install it...
It's a 4 tooth hardy blade. They are like 50 dollars
Make sure u wear a mask cutting this material. It creates fine concrete dust like a volcano and will affect your Breathing. I do siding and I don't recommend this garbage. It's heavy and only comes in 12 pieces instead of 16. It makes for twice as many buttjoints. ONCE AGAIN THIS MATERIAL IS GARBAGE. Go with 16 foot laminated press board pre painted. 👍
i installed james hardie on 1 of the oldest houses in plymouth mi james hardie threw the homeowners a block party the house was like 128 years old we found old plymouth lumber underneath that the owner framed and put in his house cool deal
When I installed Hardi-Plank 20 years ago, they recommended a 1/8 inch gap between butt joints! Now I get to re-caulk every few years.
The product went through some changes, I think. They did have some issues a couple years back, I think.
if you rabbit a cut on cornerboards do you still need to caulk if the cut ends are sitting inside the rabbit? If so there is no point in me doing rabbits on the corners. Thanks for all the info
No. Rabbeted trim eliminates the need for caulk.
@@sstupidsstuff3453 nice! Does it make it difficult to do if say rabbit a window and corner? You have to slide the siding down above the window to get it in there right? Which in the future if ever removed a piece between there you'd have to cut it out and caulk that one or remove everything to top of window , is that right? Or just rabbit corner and not window so it comes out easy of needed?
@@Hedgehodge- it depends on the length of your Hardie board. For example, a longer piece like a 10-ft would have enough flex you could probably get it into the rabbets where you may not be able to do that with a smaller cut. I don't have rabbets on my window trim, only corners. The windows are caulked but not the corners.
@@sstupidsstuff3453 thank you, I was thinking of doing this since windows are done but not corners. Coravent into rabbit area and trimmed down to prevent bugs and then rabbit corners .
I have a current hardi plank install. It is only primed hardi because the installer lied and said my county did not allow color and then when I discovered the lie they said it would be another 5000 for the colored planks (I was already charged 34550 for 1700 square feet of siding installation). So only one has come to do the job which I am ok with but I don't think the job is being done correctly. There are gaps between the siding and the trim and I can place all my fingers between the bottom window gap and the window. There is also large gaps between the gable trim and the siding and some of the top peak siding if literally flapping out at the edges. The top of the horizontal trim also has a 1/4 gap. They don't include caulking with the job so I am sure they will tell me to just have the house caulked when I finally call to complain tomorrow. Oh, one last thing. The but joints have large gaps between them so they caulked them without using the joint flashing. Am I being unreasonable saying the job is being done incorrectly or is this how the install should be.
what did u do
1/4" is spec, butt joints are 1/8" and must have flashing at each but joint...look at Hardie insturctions on teh web site
34k for 1700 sq ft imma get vinyl. Lasted 31 years no issues
How often do you have to recaulk?
Depends on what caulking you use. We use quadmax on all of our houses and we've never had a call back for caulking in 6 years. Most of the paint jobs we do we see caulking failing in 5-15 years depending on the quality of caulking and paint used as well as moisture/ sun quantity.
my oh my I repainted my friends house that had Hardie prepainted siding all 4 sides of his house were different colors due to the amount of sun shine they got over a 12 years period ...it went from dark forest green on the north side of the house to a pale yellow color on the south side of the house...and who ever installed it - left plenty of wide gaps between the boards ... So are you SURE they don't expand and contract ? He nearly cried when he saw how nice it looked with new paint on it
They 100% move!
@@dumbdems some of the gaps were a 1/2 inch wide !
@@diverdave4056 dang, didn't know they moved that much tho!
@@dumbdems maybe it wasn't installed correctly ?
@@diverdave4056 seems like it, hard to be sure without looking but I'm sure they didn't look for studs and just nailed to the osb which isn't right.
where can i get the publication you were using ?
You should be able to get the "installation guide" from Hardie
How often does this stuff need to be recalled? Nobody talks about that. Is t composite better?
James Hardie recommends using some very expensive caulk called Quad Max. It's a caulk that you can not tool. It also comes in the colors of the siding you pick. It's great quality, just very difficult to install without making it look like a 5 year old did it.
I work at that company in Saint Louis Missouri
Are you aware that those nails blow out the back of the siding destroying the holding power?
predrill
Use the Parlodel nails that can go anywhere.
Where can I buy the materials in ct?
Don't do it
where can i get a print out for that sheet
I'm sure you can contact your local lumber yard (not Home Depot) and ask them for one.
Does anyone know if James Hardie recommends batten strips to be caulked on both sides of the strip on board and batten? Recently had my house sided by a highly recommended siding contractor that has done many hardie sided homes and they did not caulk the sides of the batten strips. Was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction before contacting James Hardie directly. Thanks in advance!
james hardie has detailed installation guides with endless scenarios and protocols. its all available online on their website for anyone to look at. and FYI- I am a professional contractor and did board and batten hardie on my own home and did not caulk the sides or battons- its 9 years later and no issues to date.
@@scottclarkson1019 like where the hardie meets a window trim ? u didnt caulk that?
@@randomrazr I did not caulk that- but my “board” was under the trim pieces rather then butted up against it like you would do with lap siding.
@@scottclarkson1019 i was looking at a house that had hardie board. for some reason the board that was butted up next to the window had caulk. but for some reason 1 foot of it from the bottom of the window, they didnt bother caulking. would this be done on purpose?
@@randomrazr lets water drain out
I checked your site and did not find the info you are showing - no instructions, no flyer, not directions. What am I missing? I mean other than those listed crucial pieces of information.
Try www.jameshardie.com/
Along the Gulf Coast having siding along the bottom row of the house is just shooting yourself in the foot.
So many crooked developers are building new homes in areas that used to be swamps.
It is also ridiculous the shortcuts builders secretly do that the home-buyer does not catch. Gutter placement is often atrocious.
Same in the north west. I had delivered concrete to a house. A couple months later we were pouring another foundation and they were still working on that first house. The siding guys came and it was 5 inches off level. They had to jack up the foundation. Another place a 12 foot deep sink hole happened on a mountain that was from a prehistoric volcano. The builder dumped dirt and rock in it and built a house
Is there a link to the installation instructions?
www.jameshardiepros.com/install-and-tech-docs/browsetechdocs?doctype=Installation%20Instructions
Thank you!
Where can we get that installation guide ?
Try the Hardie Siding website.
Do you caulk under the siding
NO!!! Not on this not on wood either.
I had a new house built and they said Hardie siding was the best. Now it whistles in the breeze and rattles in the wind. Should have paid the money for brick. What a nightmare....
all products expand and contract with temperature, there should be a thermal expanction number. For Hardie Boards: Coeficient of Thermal Expansion (COTE) per ASTM E228 is: Longitudinal COTE = 6.7X10E-6 in/in ° F Transverse COTE = 7.65X10E-6 in/in ° F. So for a 10' board it would be 0.0000067in/inF * 10'(12"/1') * 100F = 0.0684". So a 10' board with a change of 100F will change 68 mills (34 mills at each end). Not sure how much the nails will attenuate this change.
Idk how some of these pros try to say that bs. Everything moves just how much.
Not a fan, installed on a few houses, its not forgiving, our boss said he's not doing another job with it. At least the 4x8 sheets with battons. It scratches easily, repairs are difficult to make look nice. Off cuts are landfill bound. Take longer to install. At least for us.
Caulk dam huh
He said James Hardi products don’t expand and contract?!??
WTF?!?
2:44-3:03
How are they exempt from the laws of science?
Could of actually showed paint application instead of that.
Having a new house built now. The Hardie board on the rear of the house has ‘bows’ above ⬆️ the windows. About 5 or 7 courses. 🤔 Is this an issue? Inspector said they might lay down after it ‘dries’ or ages. We have 11 months after close before I get anal. No other areas of the house have ‘bows’ in the planks. Builder is reaching out to the installers about this issue.
Hardie plank should not bow and there is no drying or curing time. What likely has happened is that the pieces were not trimmed to the correct length and wedged into place resulting in a bow. Hire another inspector that knows what he’s talking about for the 11th month warranty inspection. The builder should fix this.
That’s funny! My last window guy said the sun would fix the windows he installed bowed, I never knew the sun could fix bad window installation. Sounds like your guy is doing the same. Most likely bad framing or plywood sheeting pushing out on that one part of the wall. The hardie will conform to the shape of what behind it, and no it won’t fix itself over time.
That Hardie is just following the wall. Good luck!
Did he just say Hardi Plank will not expand and contract because of the wether outside. You are wrong my friend
cement fiber doesn't expand and contract, the wood it's attached too will
NO information on fastening Hardie planks. What type nails?? Spacing of nails?? Face nailed ??
Major drawback to this video. Not sure why they left the most fundamental part of installing out.
2 3/16 collated ringshanks. 16 OC try not to face nail anything instead your nailing should be 3/4 down from the top edge covered by the next board. Grip rite nails are the best.
@@ridenorthwest1687 >> Ok, thanks, Good to hear from you. All the best in 2022.
James Hardie does not recommend any caulking whatsoever . Cut ends should be sealed with a special sealant. Research Hardie again. Hardie specifically says don't use caulking and it can void the warranty
This is completely incorrect there are pages on their website about caulking. They also work closes with Quadmax caulking and have paint matching available with their caulking to match James Hardie colors.
Colored planks are not to be caulked at butts on the rows. Use the flashing behind each seam.
Is the presenter a James Hardie rep with this posting sponsored by Northville Lumber, or a Northville Lumber guy giving his opinion on the JH install guide?
He is a James Hardie product specialist. His presentation was in the Northville Lumber showroom.
This product is absolute crap Ralph Marshall must live in the driest California type climate in the world I have seen people pull this crap off their house three or four times in a ten-year period for the company to reinstall it three or four times it fails the same way every time warping cracking in the surface paint it is absolute junk
It must be being installed by fools, if installed properly it lasts forever..do some research on qualified installer