How to Install Cement Board Siding
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2020
- Nichiha Cement Board: www.nichiha.com/
Tools I used-
Gecko Gage: bit.ly/2FYq2mb
Circular Saw: bit.ly/3bASp4K
Nail Gun: bit.ly/3mQrQ1m
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PO Box 6451 Logan UT 84341
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This video is absolutely amazing and well explained. One of the best videos on TH-cam providing instructions on how to install siding. No ego. No fluff. All facts. I love that you provided a list of tools and equipment needed to get the job done - explained what it's like as a one or two man job. This instructional video is superb! Five Stars. Bravo! Well done. Thank you for taking the time.
Those gauges have made me a lot of money. They’re more valuable to me than anything in my trailer. Saves time and strain in my joints
Y'all, this is the our generations "This old house".
Joel - Norm would be so so proud.
7 P
I love watching how fast this remodel is coming along. It sure has come a long way than when we first saw it in the vlog. Well done Joel! Excited to see where this project takes you.
Very amazing presentation, very clear explanations, camera doesn't move constantly, no background noise, pointing at every single spot just like it's a well designed documentary! I'd say this has been the best video that I've ever seen! The only thing is that I wish you could also demonstrate how you do the top part (the triangle as in gable area) and how you could manage cutting the cement board edges right with the perfect angle.
Thank you so much for your time and for your amazing demonstration 👍👏😍🙏
The bloopers at the end are classic. I really enjoy your content you have a lot of knowledge. Hope you and your family are well. Who ever ends up buying that home is very lucky.
Thank you. That was the best "how to" video on cement board siding installation I've come across.
This channel,his expertise is so deserving to surpass into the millions..he is to the point 👍
Great job explaining things as you go along! I picked up a tip on cutting out the notch on the cutting table. It sucks not having the extra hands at times when dealing with the long boards but you are soldiering your way through it. The ending was funny!
I like your videos. Very knowledgeable and well spoken. So glad you branched off.
Love watching you work on the house it's going to be beautiful inside and out . If I lived in Utah I'd buy it 👍 hope your back feels better .
Hugs Maria
Gecko gauges are a awesome toll and helper. I use Duo Fast siding nailer( awesome tool) . I use a compact grinder (4 1/2 inches diameter diamond blade) to cut the cement board, Tyvek wrapping “plastic” and the rest is pretty much the same setup! Great video !
Tip for cutting: Score both sides with a utility knife along a speed square and snap it like drywall. No dust, no tools.
That is gonna look great when you’re done! Great info!
Yes finally! Someone who knows about and uses gecko gauges. Makes the project a one person job. Those things are amazing and so well worth buying
I agree, he's pretty spectacular isn't he.
Guessing you haven't come accross the Perkins Brothers channel. They use the Geckos all the time.
Love these videos Joel! I am learning so much!
I love watching your videos Joel, keep up the good work!!!!
I use to say I didn't like the bloopers but now I do lol also very educational and very important. Glad I am learning all of this.
Great video buddy. Getting ready to do the same project and you provided some really useful tips.
Great explainations! Great video! Comprehensive.
I’ve built, as a DIY, quite a few cement board buildings. Nice explanation. Of course everyone does things a little differently. So take my comments with a grain or a pound of salt. I won’t mention the things others have pointed out. Good on the shim board at the bottom. But use a narrow strip of the cement board instead of the wood. Don’t use the galvanized nails you are using. Those are electrogalvanized. They WILL rust. Cement board is very corrosive. More dollars but use SS nails. No discoloration and more durable. Good that you put the flashing behind the joint. Good that you space the panels with a gap. Same at the trim. Much easier to caulk a 1/8” gap than a 1/16” also. As to cutting the boards. I normally use Hardie, or Hardie knock off. They are a bit longer, 12’, which makes it nicer. Hardie is 5/16”. (And pre-primed) Looks like your stuff is thicker. I use a sliding chop saw with a cement board blade. A bit faster. Always wear a mask and cut with the wind blowing the dust away from you. I also use a Kett Hardie shear. Doesn’t make as nice a cut, but less dust. Nice for cutting odd shapes. I don’t use the Gecko gages, though they are fine. I like the gauge that hangs from the top of the plank. Very ingenious. And you really can’t have slippage on the gauge, and ONE person can do it all. There are advantages to each, but once I’ve nailed down the siding, I really don’t like prying it up even a little as the Gecko requires. Hardie/knockoff trim is a bit thicker than your trim, so the siding sits below the trim, even on the bottom of a board, so easier to caulk also. Another comment is you don’t show how you nail up the trim, but looks like you use brads, which is the way to go. But I really suggest using SS brads! They hold great and again, no rust! And you don’t get to the top of the trim for the windows. I’d really suggest using Z flashing for the top of the window. Final comment is the flashing tape around the windows prior to putting on the planks, doesn’t look to be secured well. The weakest point for rot is around doors and windows. Use the best tape and make sure it is adhered well. Lots of points, but we agree, cement board is a great product. Paint sticks to it very well. Good video.
If the wall behind the siding is properly waterproofed why do you need to flash the gaps between the boards, especially since the bottom of the flashing doesn't overlap on top of the board below, carrying water that gets into the gap away from the underlying waterproofing layer?
Excellent advice & info and some super cool tips & tricks, many thanks, subscribed!!! 💥👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video! I loved your out takes.
Nice job. Clear as a bell. From New York City, Thanks. I worked in many trades over 40: years.
Love the outtakes! Thnx for being real.
Thank you man you are a professional in all the way. You teach me a lot again thank you
sir...you are amazing and talented. you are a rare breed. good job and excellent content
Joel!!!! I love your bloopers!!!
I don't see a drainage plain behind the sliding. We strip our houses with 1 x 3's first over the studs. The bottom always starts with Cor-A-Vent wrapped with mesh. That guarantees a 3/4 inch air space behind the siding.
thanks for the video. I'm learning... 2 thumbs up!!
Your out takes are the best lol!!
This is a delight to watch.
Love the shirt! I watch those guys all the time.
Great video! I learned a lot. Thank you!
Awesome video brother. Like the shirt by the way. A big fan of those guys as well. Lol.
Couple observations.
Flashing goes under paper.
Flash over windows.
J channels at trim to minimize caulking.
Fine job.
Very nice video. Thank you!
"I bet you wanna go biking, biking on a weekday"
IM DYING LAUGHING FROM THAT
Great video. Did you have to use special siding nails for the cement board?
Thanks for sharing ,best video on install
AWESOME, THANK YOU.
Love the shirt.....great video 👍👍👍👍
Love the Perkin's Builder Brothers shirt!!
Great video thanks
new sub here!! this is great your vid came up in the feed today even tho it is Wednesday August 25, 2021
First excellent job and one amazing video.
One question why did you not prime the cut ends ?
Great video 👍
Breh those notches on the ply board A1 👌
Joel the house is going toook great
Great explanation video! Just happen to come across it as we are repairing our modern home that has 4'x8' fiber cement panels. Two questions: first, we were told we had to prime any edges of the panels? Is that true and two, galvanized nails were used on our home but now they are rusting and showing through. Again, they are full panels and not overlapped. Any suggestions on how to alleviate this? I am doing the repairing so want to have nails that won't rust. The panels are primed and painted (actually twice) and the nails still rust. Thanks!
Great stuff but I wonder when Azek , Fiberon or some other company will start making a plastic siding product like their trim boards
The two tone colors look great ….
What material do you use for the starter shim at the bottom? Looked like wood. I'm installing some Hardie Plank and they suggest ripping a piece of fiber cement board as the starter piece.
Good job. Spot on work. Question? Why would board be wavy? Contractor installed 12’ and board is 3/4 bowing at spots.
Good question, it could be that the studs are wavy to begin with, or it could be that there are not enough nails put into the siding.
I would use silicone paintable caulking at all the siding joints and at the ends as well…
Nice video but shouldn’t you have air gaps on your starter strip ?
Very good
Thanks, great.video.
Just found your video. Thanks it is great! Love the level of detail. Questions for you. Would you/can you install right over existing T1-11 (what I have)? Any issues with boards splitting with the nails?
I would think it would be ok.
I would test on a less visible window first and double check for splitting.
Hey man have you checked on the window trim at all?? Because with time water will begin to get in that joint you left
It would be awesome if someone could do a video on how to repair this siding when alrdy up
Have you ever used spray foam behind your siding for extra insulation?
could you produce a video on how to stain, paint cement fiber board?
A 10ft board is not 112 inches though..... it is actually 120! 😆🤣 Thank you for the video, and the laughs as well!!
Ask
@@bobwickline7947 ok. Ask what?
You"re boss of bosses
👍
Why are the trim board seams at the bottom of the window trim horizontal?Shouldn't they be vertical?
Question, is a full strip going on the top or do you have to rip one
How do you hide the nails on the top board?
What nail finish nail do u use for they straps?
When putting on the window trim (at 2:45 on the video) you show the corner joint of trim boards as running horizontal. Should this not be vertical? Such that the joint would carry water down and off the trim. Being horizontal it might cause the water to run along the joint and wick under the window. Just a thought.
Yes
not sure with your cement board but with hardie plank you leave no gaps. There is no expansion or shrinkage with hardie cement board.
I see you left gaps.The house I am buying they caulked or siliconed between the end cuts. Needed? Thanks
Great but i believe the boards should be painted first and also on the sides and slightly on the back but i am no professional. Thinking about moisture control and controlling rot!
That is a good idea always, the boards are already primed and they are cement not wood so it won't be as critical.
@7:59: I don't think the manufacturer calls for a gap. I think they call for them to be loosely butted together, but not friction-fit. Also, you should prime end cuts and try to use factory ends for butt joints when possible.
Not an expert but I believe you only have to prime end cuts if you're using wood.
You are supposed to prime the the end cuts according to James Hardie installation instructions.
Great video! What kind of flushing you are using for that job?
It is an aluminum flashing. I just cut thin strips and place it between the siding boards.
Ho do you cut around the windows? Our contractor has left anywhere from 1/8th inch to 1-1/2 inch gaps around windows. Is there any type of trim we can install to hide gaps. Contractor said he is going to caulk but this is going to look sloppy . It’s not a neat finished look as each board is a slightly different length. In siding that is not the case. That is under trim boards and gaps are hidden. Any suggestions would be appreciated .
What kind of nail gun do you use ?
The bloopers!!!
Can you score and snap?
Hi Joel I’m here from your family channel where is Olivia wallpaper from in her room it’s so dang cute
Shouldn’t the sides on your window trim run long and your bottom be cut the same as the width of the window? I’ve just never seen it done the way you’ve done it. Seems like a good place for water to find it’s way in eventually.
You are right
I was thinking the exact same thing
Run the trim around the windows,the same way as the window flashing...
😊👍
Great work! I hope your back doesn't give you any more trouble.
I'm putting up harde 1/4" siding that looks like shingles. Do you recommend putting a lower flashing on the bottom? What about a piece of flashing between the pieces?
I would flash the first row on the bottom and then all the joints. I love the shingle siding look.
I need to replace the bottom boards around our shed that was built with cement fiber board. I don't have an air nailer so what would you recommend for me to use...hand nail or screw them in?
I would hand mail them in.
Cost of this DIY project?
Can you explain why you leave the little vertical gap in between boards?
almost all building materials will expand and contract with temperature so you have to account for that.
I've been doing hardy for 30 yes you only have to leave a gap in your butt joints if you caulk which caulk fails and you don't have to do a backer strip or bottom flashing which hardi will absorb water especially when it freezes and thaws so that metal drip is a ice dam
Where’d you nail the ends of the boards between the windows to? There weren’t studs between them were there?
There is a wood backing that I wanted it to stick to as well.
how do you finish the last strip, do you nail and fill exposed nail heads or cover them with a trim?
You can, I nailed above the soffit line in the roof system,
@@TodaysTask hey thanks for the quick reply, i attempted my first hardy job last week and that last row had me stumped as too how i was gonna make it look good, hiding in the soffit wasn’t a option for me.
I have seen some people nail it normal, and then put a small trim piece over with finish nails.
Don't gap butt joints on siding just corners and trim on hardi board
The two bottom boards look like a different color than the rest of the boards.
Are you allowed to caulk the joints so their not so visible or do you just have to deal with it?
You can absolutely caulk the joints.
Bro are those two different colors at the bottom
The second board and a small piece on the third board look a different color?
They are different colors because they are just primed. the finish coat will be an even color.
Ok
Why don’t you caulk in between the seams and on the edges? Do you go back afterwards when all your boards are up?
Yes, my paint team caulked everything after. Good catch.
Nice mountains what state is that
UTAH
Never heard from venting. Not much money for. 1"×2"timber. No heating. No condens water. Better ventilstion!👍👍🇩🇪
So you like perkins bros 👍i like that
do you paint this when done
Yes, it is only a primer on the boards now.