You should do a video on the passive house rating process and discuss the energy modeling and the other testing procedures you have go through as well as modifications you needed to make to the house and window schedule to make it meet passive house standards.
The results speaks volumes, truly a first rate job. No detail over looked, amazing finishes. As expected from MR..... well done sir. What I appreciate the most is what a Godly, humble man you are and not afraid to display it to the world.
Matt, like u, I’ve been using Hardie siding for decades. I’m a big fan of their product & I love their colorplus tech for the maintenance free aspect. U did not mention it in ur video, but I believe the color will fade over time but it will not flake off. U don’t mention necessary tools other than gecko (which is great btw), but there r different tools for cutting it & it is very important for the person doing the cutting to where a dust mask as the dust is toxic. Re: nailing, don’t get too close to the corners or it will blow out on u, unless u predrill. And any cut u make, Hardie recommends u use the touch up kit to paint the cut edge - even if it is butting up against trim or another piece of siding. Keep it off the ground a few inches, it is not made for ground contact even tho it’s fiber cement. And lastly, it does expand & contract over its lifetime, hence the critical 1/8” caulk joints where u meet trim. I’ve put it on in cold winter days & humid summer days, and it’s amazing to c it swell or shrink. U wouldn’t think that in a cement product, but it does. I recommend a smaller caulk joint if u r installing in the summer (because it will shrink when it gets cold) and a larger caulk joint if u r installing in the winter (because it will swell when it gets warm).
Can I put this siding on too of asbestos sidong in my farmhouse? If so. What lenght of nail could I use to nail down the vertical wood planks on the siding that will hold down this type of siding?? Thanks.
Great stuff with the exception of caulking corner joint. Over 20 years US Navy sealing joints on aircraft you tape your joint squirt thick bead of caulk, then you run a plastic spreader over caulk, peel tape and lastly you spray soapy water over caulk/sealant and run it smooth with hand. Soapy water lubricates sealant and wont stick to your hand. Not only does it make the sealant smooth it feathers down the edge and looks beautiful. Holds up to jet aircraft flying at over 300 mph.
Do you mean tape both sides of the joint leaving the joint exposed then caulk and tool over the caulked joint then peel the excess away on the tape? Sounds like a great technique
Matt, House looks great. You are so right about composite siding. I started my exposure back in the 70 's. Every few years there was another composite-they all failed. I have done Hardi and the Artisan and shingle style-they are all Hardi winners. Don't ever change. Hardi has its challenges but mostly with aesthetics but it even holds a poor paint job for a long time. Don't listen to the composite crowd. I spent 43 years overseeing home construction in Texas, Atlanta, and the Northeast. When you find something that works just stick with it and experiment with other things. Enjoy your videos-very informative.
I do Hardie siding repairs about 3 days out of every week. In Houston I have NEVER seen the flashing applied at the siding joints. NEVER in 17 years. Plus the installers almost always set the nail guns to sink the nails thus causing blowouts in the back of the siding.
Katy Busy Bee you are my new bestie!!! Thank you for telling me why my new construction looks like crap. Oh my goodness you have no idea what a blessing you are right now. I have this happening above my windows and on a couple of long runs. I'm crying right now.
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
My mother was living in Montana and used painted James hardy siding from the factory on her home back in 1978 when it was built. today that paint is lightly faded and just needs to be washed after 43 years. The cedar trim on the south side of the home needs replaced badly. But that is not her problem anymore, well....she’s now in heaven.
Matt, I would love to see you and your team create a video that explains the roof you put on your house. I'm sure I am not the only architect that would be interested in a video like that. Tips/tricks, install details, and product information, for your standing seam metal roof like you did here for your James Hardie siding install would be an amazing. I can't tell you how many times I've specified a standing seam metal roof on a residential project and the builder will admit they don't know how to install it, and will subsequently submit a change order to an exposed fastener metal roof or asphalt shingle because of their unwillingness to try something new.
Standing seam roof panels, when installed with the proper UL clip spacing AND with proper termination/ penetration details, are far superior to exposed fastener systems
3yrs later and still seeing your videos a lot of information and please Matt continue to be detailed on how to. You helped me a lot over on the other side of the map while majority of the carpenters are ripping people off and cutting their job cheap
I've gotten a lot of work here in extreme Northern California from LP InnerSeal failures. All were resided with James Hardie products. Saw some cool tips in this video that I will use in the future. I have used fiber-flash behind the butt joints, which works fine but the metal is quicker and easier. Thanks
I just did my entire 1913 farm house in Nebraska with the pewter grey 6 1/4" and after watching this video, I can tell you, that you did it the same way I did. So good job. Except one thing - an opinion. I was taught not to run the rows stair stepped, but rather randomize the joints going up. Mine is four years old now and it still looks like it did the day I put it up.
Update 2022. On June 14, we had a tornado warning at 10:30 at night with 1 1/2" hail. There was rotation on the radar south of town. A friend of mine just installed pre-painted Hardie on his brand new custom home in that part of town. The hail blew out all the windows on the west side and blew into the room destroying the interior wall 14' inside. Others had their vinyl siding torn up 6" below the soffit eve, destroying the entire side of the house. The Hardie had no dents and no damage. We had the same hail at our house with it coming down at about 75 degrees. No damage to my siding either. Hardie needs to come to our town and get some testimonies about their product. Would use nothing else. - the primed stuff painted by the owners did not fare to well. That paint was removed by the hail.
Hi Matt, I've been following your channel for about 6 months and had decided to take the plunge and do an addition on our house. We live just south of Seguin Texas right before the Wilson County line. Our first mistake is we hired our neighbor, who is the local HS teacher that teaches building. He has a license. With Covid, he was unsure if he'd be teaching this fall, so we hired him to frame our addition. We had most of the materials, so we hired him just for labor, we supplied all the materials except for the fasteners. We used the Zip System which he said he was fine with (I later found out, he'd never used it before). We added a rain screen, which was a fabric type screen (I had to fight to get that added!!). He made several mistakes we had to correct when installing the windows, even though I was sending him your videos and others from the Huber to show how it needed to be done. When it came time for him to apply the Hardie plank siding (unpainted) he completely destroyed the Zip Sheathing. Instead of nailing the Hardie to the studs like the instructions say, he nailed it to the Zip instead, like it were regular OSB. He rarely hit a stud. I did not see what he was doing because the room was sealed, he did not open a door to the room until just last week. Also, I recently had neck surgery, so was not able to climb up and look closely. The job being done. My husband paid him, that night. The next morning when it was light I saw what was done and was horrified!! I wrote to Hardie to get installation guidance, but I never received a reply. I need an expert to come and look at it and tell me all the problems so I can have him reimburse me to get the job done right. I'm afraid that water will leak through all the nail holes and even more importantly, the siding will not stay attached during our hurricane force winds. He also didn't use stainless steel nails and he counter sunk all the nails. He also did not use any kind of flashing behind the butt joints and did not seal the cut ends. My husband is a disabled vet and obviously I can't do the work any time soon. Who can you recommend in the local area can I call to have them inspect the work and tell me how to fix it?
That was a fantastic video. Very comprehensive. I liked the shout out to Portland OR which is where I live and build. Keep the how to videos coming. You are a great resource.
I'm also interested in the install details where the HardiePlank meets the roof. From what I've seen its a pretty big clearance that needs to be there between the two. Not a fan of visible step flashing in the gap, which is the problem I'm trying to work out for the future install at my home. Haven't been able to sort that out yet, but I’m a year out from siding. I’d also be interested in all of the finish details concerning the top most course of siding and the interface between it and whatever it meets at the top. Butted up against soffit and is there a trim detail that will finish out and cover up the nails on this top most course? I’ll have to go back and rewatch to see if I can spot any of this.
Hey Matt. Any chance you can talk about those awnings you put on your house? They look great and different from what I'm used to seeing in a residential application.
Matt I am surprised you went with a black roof! Normally if you wanted to reduce heat island effect you would have gone with a light color roof. Your house looks amazing!
@@phi376 Black metal roofs have become popular across the World in the past 4-5 years. Throwing a whole lot of insulation, and vent space, onto the roof helps with heat gain. I'm sure that that is what Matt did.
I’m noticing that they didn’t use a Boral product as a skirt board or on any roof to wall application. With a piece of Z-flashing. They also didn’t talk about the James Hardie house wrap. You need both of these to not void warrantee. Love this channel.
Hardie isnt all its cracked up to be though. Its absolute garbage if any water at all gets behind it. The paint is the weatherproofing, thats why its so important to caulk properly
@@jimibones178 Not true. After finishing my house with Hardipanel sheets in a board and batten style, I used offcuts for various projects. One is an irrigation panel in the garden, a box sheathed with Hardi. Somehow I just never got around to putting a little roof over it, so the exposed edges of the Hardipanel material are constantly bombarded by the weather. Five years later, the material still looks like new. It's a great product, worth every penny.
@@paulmaxwell8851 im glad it worked out for you. That is not always the case. For whatever reason, your one experience worked out. Plenty of them do. Quite a few dont as well though, which is not what i look for in a product. Im a union carpenter. We use hardie board all the time. Im never around to see it fail but its got a pretty bad rep
Very nice work. Doing my house now with the primed Hardie siding. One high end to do Tmro morning the start caulking for paint. That’s how I ended up here to see how to do it. Thx
Matt as usual a great informative video. I probably missed the video when you installed your roof. My question, why did you choose a black roof for the Texas environment? Wouldn’t a lighter color roof repel some of the heat?
I also have this question. I'm wondering if Mat's roof has any reflective coatings applied to it as many "cool roof" systems do. I do love the appearance of the black roof and the contrast it provides. I have always thought a black roof would be more ideal in a cooler northern climate due to the passive heating effect from infrared (provided you have the right roof angle to keep the snow off, of course. But the expense and labor costs of installation are prohibitive for many homeowners.
I agree. Farmhouse style has black roofs going up everywhere. But I never saw a real farmhouse with a black roof. Whether we lije it or not, we have to start embracing light color roofs and so do HOAs that set all the color requirements.
Hardie use to say caulk it, but last i knew, they changed there stance on it and now reccomend to leave it open. Which doesnt make sense because it has 0 tolerance for moisture anyway. No use leaving a weep hole if theres no tolerance for moisture in the first place
Building a Taylor Morrison home in South Carolina, will have Hardy board but do not know the system or model. Your home is beautiful and well built to your specs
Yeah trim coil scrap is free and just as good I loled when I saw that. Always wondered who bought those accessories or the terrible prebent flashing the sell
Looks great Matt, I put James Hardie shingles on one side of my house and Boral boards with chamfered edges placed horizontally with mitered corners (no corner boards). Nice mix of traditional and contemporary elements for which I get a lot of compliments....even from UPS and FedEx drivers.
I had purchased cement board siding years ago for a shed I had built that had a yellowish primer on it. I never painted it until last year and it looks amazing. I used Sherman Williams. I’d definitely recommend cement board.
It's refreshing to see someone doing things right and to the best of their ability when all the new builds around me are being done so wrong. Minimum code in Canada still allows builders to just slap houses together quickly, with almost no regard to efficiency other than the insulation R value requirements.
My hardy board siding is a year old on new construction and it's failing already. I have a couple spots where it's buckled and cracked. Worst install ever or poor product. Either way I'm looking at thousands of dollars in repair work on a house I just built.
@@SistaBadass66 Sadly I've seen that same issue in some of the new developments near me. Hardy is a quality product - I guarantee your problem is from poor installation. What sucks in a new build is that when you have a problem, it's often the contractor that poorly installed it that comes back to 'fix' it.
@@randomrazr After seeing this video I realized the installers nailed wrong and contacted my builder. I got an email that said a supervisor was sent and install was done correctly. So frustrating but I'm over it and now that I know they don't care, I'm moving my emotional energy to just fixing the problem before it becomes a larger issue. My neighbor had a similar concern and the caulking crew showed up and emptied a few canisters on his home. After this video thankful @stonecoldcustoms told us that's not the correct avenue. It's the little wins that keep me positive.
Ive re-sided 2 houses with James Hardie fiber cement siding here in Ottawa, Canada. Love the product. Cuts easily and easy to nail on. Mine was 8.25 wide with a 7" reveal, came pre-painted and had a nail line 1 inch down from the top. I didn't have those joint backers so you can see the Tyvek in places but i used the Quad colour match against the trim boards on the corners and around the windows. Great video...but what is kellar?
Love JH and the attention to detail waterproofing , 100 years until an exterior board needs replaced on this house. Great it’s color matched but I find OSI scary, no tooling, who is this good at caulking?! Black roof in TEXAS, somebody is cocky about their insulation! Great channel, I learn so much here.
Was caulking at the trim ends necessary? I thought I had seen other videos from this channel were they decided not to caulk Hardie board with this particular exterior construction.
Great video... One thing I never see any of the videos on hardy plank cover is the nail specs. E.g. what gauge of finish nail for trim and hardy plank where needed (other than the blind nailing). Or the actual nails for the hardy plank itself. Would you be able to post that in the comments 🙂
Thanks for a great in-depth look at your siding installation. I’m curious why you didn’t choose to add a Tesla solar roof and Powerwall to the house? In Texas you certainly have enough sun and given the failures of the grid this past winter I would have thought it would be a good time to have an independent power source.
Videos like this are what teaches me all the things that my previous bosses either never knew, or never bothered to teach me. Thank you internet, for teaching me how to do things better than I was taught. Making my own workshop right now, it's gonna be overbuilt and done right 💪
-30 F in winter, upper 90s to 10p in summer. In late winter/early spring, it could be 10 F today and 70 F tomorrow, so it can also swing hard and quick.
I agree, when I did home inspections we would see the James Hardie cracked at every house around the twin cities that used it. I personally prefer seamless steel siding.
@@macthemec vinyl is the standard here like it is most places. It actually handles the extreme winters just fine. But when I lived in Missouri you could physically see the vinyl sag from the heat if there wasn’t enough nails put in.
Matt, thanks for all the info on this one! Since James Hardie is our choice as well for siding, it really helps with the details. Looking forward to the upper rain screen detail with the siding! I'm still 'playing' around with my upper gable's detail and any ideas are always welcome! Classy end on this one as well! Good luck Andrew!!
another good video. i am glad that risinger addressed the caulk issue with respect to the ventilated rainscreeen. i was wondering whether you really needed to do caulking with the rainscreen. my understanding from the james hardie instructions is that you either leave a gap and caulk the butt joints, or you use the flashing. why can't you miter the 2 ends at 45 degrees, prime the cut ends, and then overlap the 2 end pieces? i have a question for risinger: why didn't you use aspyre siding for the house overall? one of the claimed benefits of the aspyre collection is that you can miter the corners. of course, a drawback is that factory finishing is not available with the asypre collection.
I've seen their factory finish need paint in less than 10 years here in kansas. Not uncommon at all and done by certified hardi installers. It fades like anything else over time. Also not buying any paint finish lasting 16years with heavy sun exposure
All depends on quality of paint, I just bought the best Sherwin Williams at $90 retail gal paid $55 on sale. I have some paint 40 yrs old on block south face FLorida that other then some chaulkiness still looks fine. Also, pure white in FL is best bet which adds to longevity, along with prep, quality of paint, gloss or semi, and of course on concrete not wood.
Finish this house already! My wife keeps giving me a hard time every time I show her what great ideas you are incorporating but she’s really impatient and wants to see it finished...😂
Never will I put siding on my house that requires caulking in Wisconsin. Seamless aluminum is the way to go for an upgraded material. Not sure if that's a thing in the south, but caulk in the North is a no-no if you want a maintenance-free exterior.
People don't believe it " But it's made out of concrete !! .. Too close to the ground ,close to roof ,sitting atop Windows doors and penetration ,close to patios and decks .. It'll turn into complete crap fast .. It's great on a 4 corner house with a hip with no doors and windows .. 5 feet above grade lol
I had some hardiplank put on my old house back in 2016 (I sold in 2019), and the installers gave me that exact equipment for further touch-ups if needed. (Luckily not needed; everything was still pristine when I sold the place. Had to move in with my elderly parents to help them out and the commute was too much.) I made sure the new owners knew what that stuff was for, and they appreciated it.
@@buildshow Haha! Yes. I was hoping someone would mention this. I wonder if that’s a regional thing or just a family thing? Either way, definitely thought the product line was Keller+. Definitely couldn’t find it on the James Hardie website. 😅😂
@@ntopits He probably had Bell's palsy at some point in his life which affects his facial expressions and speech patterns. Without watching the video right now, I seem to recall my wife and I have speculated about it before. She had Bell's Palsy.
Hey Matt, great video. Do you have a video that might show about soffits. Wether to know do you need to vent your soffit or leave it solid, witch looks like you have on your house. And what type of material to use. ThAnk you and great video
The 8-1/4" cedarmill Hardieplank I've bought at the local big box had a nailing line imprinted on it - no guesswork. Weird tthat they don't do that on the 6-1/4" version?
black aluminum is a thermal train wreck. black steel is not as bad. but keep in mind that asphalt shingles can get really hot, and the asphalt can hold heat.
@@buildshow when you do your video, one issue that i hope that you address is how slippery the roof is if you need to go on the roof to do maintenance tasks. the pitch of your roof doesn't seem too bad, but my roof has an 8:12 pitch, and one thing that i am wondering is whether that is too steep of a roof pitch.
We live in the desert in Eastern Washington and we ended up having to replace our Hardie Board siding after it buckled from heat damage in several areas on the Southern and Western sides of our house. Our house is 12 years old and our original builder told us that the Hardie Board factory warranty was only good for 10 years. I wish you had did this video a little sooner, but oh well. LOL. Because of that we went with LP Smart Siding and we are very happy with the way it turned out, but it was a bit more expensive. Have you ever seen any thing like this with Hardie Board or LP Smart Siding with excessive heat? Love the siding though, your house did look really nice. We went with a white siding and black trim to go with our black roof and it looks amazing. 👌
my parents went the other way - replaced the failing 1993 LP siding with Hardie in 2007. the house, today, looks better than the LP looked brand new. - though that was partly the sider's fault for doing a terrible install.
@@kenbrown2808 that's interesting and concerning at the same time. We heard a lot of good things about Hardie Board, but we were afraid to use the same product and have the same issue. Now, hearing about your parents issues with LP Smart Siding I hope we didn't make a bad decision by going with LP.
@@buildshow I'm guessing it's long walls butted tight. possibly installed during winter. surprised the LP is holding up. the LP on my parents' house moved up to a quarter inch in an 8 foot stick. it was a factory warranty case before they even got the keys.
@Paul Taylor Siding and caulking keeps the bulk of the water out. But we don't care if water gets behind siding that's over a rainscreen. What water that does get behind the siding can freely drain and dry in the rainscreen, and the WRB prevents water from soaking into the sheathing/framing.
I'm so glad I watched this video. I live in Ohio and forever ppl have used vinyl siding but from seeing how it looks 20 years down the line it don't turn out very good and ends up looking wavy and also looks sun faded after some time. Not a very good choice in my opinion. I'm in the process of buying my first house and I'm about to take vinyl siding off and redo it with something that will last along time and I'm a big fan of this fiber concrete james hardy. I just love the way it looks and it gives it a more modern feel and you only see houses that's higher end around here not with vinyl siding so I think this same application will be my go to..
Very cool as I'm looking into this product. Interestingly here in the UK Hardie do NOT recommend caulking corners, but they DO recommend taping the battens with EPDM/DPC tape behind the cladding/siding. A climate thing, or just different working practices?
When we first started using the prefinished Hardie siding five or six years ago, we had issues with the finish chipping or becoming damaged while handling the material. This created issues with having to then touch up a prefinished product. Has Hardie improved their process so that this doesn’t happen?
First off great video here and it definitely has me leaning back towards the Hardie product line versus Polyash (primarily because I think TruExt. & Duration "polyash material" do not warranty their product over furring strips over insulation. My question is as follows; those furring strips look like 3/4x or 5/4x, in my research it seems like the Hardie Plank requires 1.5" for the required embedment of the nail when the furring is over insulation.. can you confirm this? I am going back and forth on the type of siding on my house, which I will be using furring over mineral board insulation.. I may also use 3.5" wide Armatherm z-girts @ 16" o.c. spacing (align with studs @ main wall) to keep the furring the exact dimension I need off the wall versus worrying about differing compression of the mineral boards when screwing through.. If I am able to use say a 5/4 board and meet all the requirements for the nailing & warranty would be great, but then again maybe the 2 x 4 furring will create a more level & stronger backing for the finish. Thanks in advance for a reply to this question and any recommendations you may have. This prefinished siding you used here looks great!!
The way they do the siding joints is so much better than what I did replacing LP on my last house 18 years ago. Hardie was still recommending quad caulked butt joints.
Matt, I grew up in Connecticut. Left there for Texas in 2015. We used lots of cedar clapboard for exterior siding. If any of it looked like the woodgrain version of Hardie there would be issues. True wood products that are painted are typically smooth, except for shingles. either red or white cedar.
According to the consumer affairs link below the pre-painted siding is not doing so hot in the field. Yes, I am a 30 year painting contractor. Love the channel Matt!
The porch ceiling for venting, I’ve been using v rustic type material so I’ll cut in custom openings all along one piece and attach some kind of metallic screen on the back side. Some people like one long vent too. Usually try to rout a detail like a bevel on the inside of the cut to match or get close to the v in the v rustic.
You guys are a pro You inspired me, with so much confidence explaining the process of siding being installed. Thank you so much for your time teaching us.
Looking good down there Matt. I have a question of why the L P Solutions wants such a large gap in their siding? Hardie says but firm or I guess a feel it butted up where L P says a 1/16. In Texas on a hot day and installing wouldn't that 1/16 be a little aggressive, say if we sustained a week of temperatures in the teens?, which is not to uncommon in several places in Texas to have below freezing temps for that long. Just curious, and yes I seen the RR guy helping with a L P build in Texas..
As you pointed out on the corner, one wall extends the hardie past the other and then gets the 3/8" caulk on the blind side. Is that all that is done to those corners? Does the excess Hardie get trimmed off somehow, or is it just left floating past the edge? Hope I asked that well.
That zip tie is so simple, yet so smart. I love it.
yep, install pro
Obvious when you see it, i love all these little tricks
Matt, I am a local carpenter here in ATX. I absolutely love your videos man! Keep 'em coming.
Lol
@@plinyherell7161 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Matt, I remember all the blow-back you got when you took this down to the slab ..... Looking back, it was the right move. Awesome, simply awesome.
Thanks Nate! I’m so thankful I did it. The house makes me smile every day!
It's amazing what you get when you spend so much effort on the details.
James Hardy has a fire rating as well. House looks fantastic as expected.
You should do a video on the passive house rating process and discuss the energy modeling and the other testing procedures you have go through as well as modifications you needed to make to the house and window schedule to make it meet passive house standards.
That’s a great idea! 👌🏻
@@buildshow thanks! As far as I have seen no one else had made a video on the process
Seconded, yes please.
@@buildshow is this video coming in the near future? I've been watching and haven't seen it pop up yet.
The results speaks volumes, truly a first rate job. No detail over looked, amazing finishes. As expected from MR..... well done sir. What I appreciate the most is what a Godly, humble man you are and not afraid to display it to the world.
Matt, like u, I’ve been using Hardie siding for decades. I’m a big fan of their product & I love their colorplus tech for the maintenance free aspect. U did not mention it in ur video, but I believe the color will fade over time but it will not flake off. U don’t mention necessary tools other than gecko (which is great btw), but there r different tools for cutting it & it is very important for the person doing the cutting to where a dust mask as the dust is toxic. Re: nailing, don’t get too close to the corners or it will blow out on u, unless u predrill. And any cut u make, Hardie recommends u use the touch up kit to paint the cut edge - even if it is butting up against trim or another piece of siding. Keep it off the ground a few inches, it is not made for ground contact even tho it’s fiber cement. And lastly, it does expand & contract over its lifetime, hence the critical 1/8” caulk joints where u meet trim. I’ve put it on in cold winter days & humid summer days, and it’s amazing to c it swell or shrink. U wouldn’t think that in a cement product, but it does. I recommend a smaller caulk joint if u r installing in the summer (because it will shrink when it gets cold) and a larger caulk joint if u r installing in the winter (because it will swell when it gets warm).
thanks for the informative comment
Can I put this siding on too of asbestos sidong in my farmhouse? If so. What lenght of nail could I use to nail down the vertical wood planks on the siding that will hold down this type of siding?? Thanks.
@@2_IMPERIO_7 I would think 2.5” siding nails. 8d.
can you explain whay type of dust toxic in their
Well explained!
Great stuff with the exception of caulking corner joint. Over 20 years US Navy sealing joints on aircraft you tape your joint squirt thick bead of caulk, then you run a plastic spreader over caulk, peel tape and lastly you spray soapy water over caulk/sealant and run it smooth with hand. Soapy water lubricates sealant and wont stick to your hand. Not only does it make the sealant smooth it feathers down the edge and looks beautiful. Holds up to jet aircraft flying at over 300 mph.
Do you mean tape both sides of the joint leaving the joint exposed then caulk and tool over the caulked joint then peel the excess away on the tape? Sounds like a great technique
@@charliebadhandz yes
You should do a video on that
@@bobkuboske6494 I second that
30 year aircraft mechanic here. Sealing aircraft panels correctly is a work of art. I always love getting those tight tape lines.
Matt, House looks great. You are so right about composite siding. I started my exposure back in the 70
's. Every few years there was another composite-they all failed. I have done Hardi and the Artisan and shingle style-they are all Hardi winners. Don't ever change. Hardi has its challenges but mostly with aesthetics but it even holds a poor paint job for a long time. Don't listen to the composite crowd. I spent 43 years overseeing home construction in Texas, Atlanta, and the Northeast. When you find something that works just stick with it and experiment with other things. Enjoy your videos-very informative.
I do Hardie siding repairs about 3 days out of every week. In Houston I have NEVER seen the flashing applied at the siding joints. NEVER in 17 years. Plus the installers almost always set the nail guns to sink the nails thus causing blowouts in the back of the siding.
Katy Busy Bee you are my new bestie!!! Thank you for telling me why my new construction looks like crap. Oh my goodness you have no idea what a blessing you are right now. I have this happening above my windows and on a couple of long runs. I'm crying right now.
MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
My mother was living in Montana and used painted James hardy siding
from the factory on her home back in 1978 when it was built.
today that paint is lightly faded and just needs to be washed after 43 years.
The cedar trim on the south side of the home needs replaced badly.
But that is not her problem anymore, well....she’s now in heaven.
Sorry to hear about your Mom.
@@augustreil thank you.
Tears but proud of her
James Hardie didnt make siding in 78'. Came out in the 90s
I just finished my cottage with James Hardie lap siding, yes, its a great product and been using it for over 20 years! Nice job!
Matt, that James-Hardie siding will outlast both of us. It is a very good building product. A+++
I absolutely love this series. Watching your videos will help me make my house soooo much better as I build it. Thank you.
Matt, I would love to see you and your team create a video that explains the roof you put on your house. I'm sure I am not the only architect that would be interested in a video like that. Tips/tricks, install details, and product information, for your standing seam metal roof like you did here for your James Hardie siding install would be an amazing. I can't tell you how many times I've specified a standing seam metal roof on a residential project and the builder will admit they don't know how to install it, and will subsequently submit a change order to an exposed fastener metal roof or asphalt shingle because of their unwillingness to try something new.
Simply follow the manufacturer installation details for the panels used.
Standing seam roof panels, when installed with the proper UL clip spacing AND with proper termination/ penetration details, are far superior to exposed fastener systems
3yrs later and still seeing your videos a lot of information and please Matt continue to be detailed on how to. You helped me a lot over on the other side of the map while majority of the carpenters are ripping people off and cutting their job cheap
I’ve been waiting for this video for months! Thanks for explaining all the best practice installation methods!
That's a beautiful design and color on your house. It looks classic with a never old look.
Appreciate that! Exactly what I was going for!
I use to install hardie board siding commercially , but we didn't have factory paint , or the color matched flashing 😳 Brilliant !
I've gotten a lot of work here in extreme Northern California from LP InnerSeal failures. All were resided with James Hardie products. Saw some cool tips in this video that I will use in the future. I have used fiber-flash behind the butt joints, which works fine but the metal is quicker and easier. Thanks
I just did my entire 1913 farm house in Nebraska with the pewter grey 6 1/4" and after watching this video, I can tell you, that you did it the same way I did. So good job. Except one thing - an opinion. I was taught not to run the rows stair stepped, but rather randomize the joints going up. Mine is four years old now and it still looks like it did the day I put it up.
Update 2022. On June 14, we had a tornado warning at 10:30 at night with 1 1/2" hail. There was rotation on the radar south of town. A friend of mine just installed pre-painted Hardie on his brand new custom home in that part of town. The hail blew out all the windows on the west side and blew into the room destroying the interior wall 14' inside. Others had their vinyl siding torn up 6" below the soffit eve, destroying the entire side of the house. The Hardie had no dents and no damage. We had the same hail at our house with it coming down at about 75 degrees. No damage to my siding either. Hardie needs to come to our town and get some testimonies about their product. Would use nothing else. - the primed stuff painted by the owners did not fare to well. That paint was removed by the hail.
Sheesh! Time to move where not so stormy! Sounds risky to live there
Hi Matt, I've been following your channel for about 6 months and had decided to take the plunge and do an addition on our house. We live just south of Seguin Texas right before the Wilson County line. Our first mistake is we hired our neighbor, who is the local HS teacher that teaches building. He has a license. With Covid, he was unsure if he'd be teaching this fall, so we hired him to frame our addition. We had most of the materials, so we hired him just for labor, we supplied all the materials except for the fasteners. We used the Zip System which he said he was fine with (I later found out, he'd never used it before). We added a rain screen, which was a fabric type screen (I had to fight to get that added!!). He made several mistakes we had to correct when installing the windows, even though I was sending him your videos and others from the Huber to show how it needed to be done. When it came time for him to apply the Hardie plank siding (unpainted) he completely destroyed the Zip Sheathing. Instead of nailing the Hardie to the studs like the instructions say, he nailed it to the Zip instead, like it were regular OSB. He rarely hit a stud. I did not see what he was doing because the room was sealed, he did not open a door to the room until just last week. Also, I recently had neck surgery, so was not able to climb up and look closely. The job being done. My husband paid him, that night. The next morning when it was light I saw what was done and was horrified!! I wrote to Hardie to get installation guidance, but I never received a reply. I need an expert to come and look at it and tell me all the problems so I can have him reimburse me to get the job done right. I'm afraid that water will leak through all the nail holes and even more importantly, the siding will not stay attached during our hurricane force winds. He also didn't use stainless steel nails and he counter sunk all the nails. He also did not use any kind of flashing behind the butt joints and did not seal the cut ends. My husband is a disabled vet and obviously I can't do the work any time soon. Who can you recommend in the local area can I call to have them inspect the work and tell me how to fix it?
Could you do a video on the awning/shed roof over the windows and entrance door? They are neat, simple and elegant.
Second this!! Matt!
That was a fantastic video. Very comprehensive. I liked the shout out to Portland OR which is where I live and build. Keep the how to videos coming. You are a great resource.
I've been waiting for this video. Need James Hardie on my home. Did you ever post the in depth look at the plumbing system at your house?
I'm also interested in the install details where the HardiePlank meets the roof. From what I've seen its a pretty big clearance that needs to be there between the two. Not a fan of visible step flashing in the gap, which is the problem I'm trying to work out for the future install at my home. Haven't been able to sort that out yet, but I’m a year out from siding.
I’d also be interested in all of the finish details concerning the top most course of siding and the interface between it and whatever it meets at the top. Butted up against soffit and is there a trim detail that will finish out and cover up the nails on this top most course? I’ll have to go back and rewatch to see if I can spot any of this.
@@paulzygmund Check the James Hardie website - at the last IBS I was at in Vegas they had a print-out of those very details.
Hey Matt. Any chance you can talk about those awnings you put on your house? They look great and different from what I'm used to seeing in a residential application.
Matt I am surprised you went with a black roof! Normally if you wanted to reduce heat island effect you would have gone with a light color roof. Your house looks amazing!
I was going to say exactly the same thing.
Watch my upcoming roof video to see what I did to mitigate!
@@buildshow can't wait to see it (I was surprised by the black roof too!)
I’m glad someone else commented on this. I was wondering why in the world he went with black as well.
@@phi376
Black metal roofs have become popular across the World in the past 4-5 years.
Throwing a whole lot of insulation, and vent space, onto the roof helps with heat gain.
I'm sure that that is what Matt did.
I’m noticing that they didn’t use a Boral product as a skirt board or on any roof to wall application. With a piece of Z-flashing. They also didn’t talk about the James Hardie house wrap. You need both of these to not void warrantee. Love this channel.
Plus, after a wild fire in our mountain area, the only cabins remaining had James Hardy siding. We did not and our home was toast.
Hardie isnt all its cracked up to be though. Its absolute garbage if any water at all gets behind it. The paint is the weatherproofing, thats why its so important to caulk properly
Hardie siding sucks…it’s sounds great but in reality it sucks.
@@jimibones178 Not true. After finishing my house with Hardipanel sheets in a board and batten style, I used offcuts for various projects. One is an irrigation panel in the garden, a box sheathed with Hardi. Somehow I just never got around to putting a little roof over it, so the exposed edges of the Hardipanel material are constantly bombarded by the weather. Five years later, the material still looks like new. It's a great product, worth every penny.
@@paulmaxwell8851 im glad it worked out for you. That is not always the case. For whatever reason, your one experience worked out. Plenty of them do. Quite a few dont as well though, which is not what i look for in a product.
Im a union carpenter. We use hardie board all the time. Im never around to see it fail but its got a pretty bad rep
Very nice work. Doing my house now with the primed Hardie siding. One high end to do Tmro morning the start caulking for paint. That’s how I ended up here to see how to do it. Thx
Your home looks incredible. I've loved watching this series from the beginning
Thanks!
Great, stright forward information, presented at a level for all experience levels.
Matt as usual a great informative video. I probably missed the video when you installed your roof. My question, why did you choose a black roof for the Texas environment? Wouldn’t a lighter color roof repel some of the heat?
I also have this question. I'm wondering if Mat's roof has any reflective coatings applied to it as many "cool roof" systems do. I do love the appearance of the black roof and the contrast it provides. I have always thought a black roof would be more ideal in a cooler northern climate due to the passive heating effect from infrared (provided you have the right roof angle to keep the snow off, of course. But the expense and labor costs of installation are prohibitive for many homeowners.
I agree. Farmhouse style has black roofs going up everywhere. But I never saw a real farmhouse with a black roof. Whether we lije it or not, we have to start embracing light color roofs and so do HOAs that set all the color requirements.
I'm glad for you Matt! Your house is looking great wow! Thank you Andrew.
Matt, are you caulking the joint between the siding and your flashings over the 5/4 trim boards? Or is that best left open?
Hardie use to say caulk it, but last i knew, they changed there stance on it and now reccomend to leave it open. Which doesnt make sense because it has 0 tolerance for moisture anyway. No use leaving a weep hole if theres no tolerance for moisture in the first place
Matt, You are the MAX NERD par exellence! You're going to be SOOOO happy when your new home is ALL FINISHED.
Huge compliment! Thanks. And yes I will
I love your driveway paint job analogy. Funny!
Hi! Does it need waterproofing /vapor protection? Looks amazing!
What a difference from the old house that was and this one. Sweet!
Considering they tore the whole old house down !!
Building a Taylor Morrison home in South Carolina, will have Hardy board but do not know the system or model. Your home is beautiful and well built to your specs
Those butt joint water guards are pretty cool
Aluminum step flashing or coil trim?
Yeah trim coil scrap is free and just as good I loled when I saw that. Always wondered who bought those accessories or the terrible prebent flashing the sell
the coil butt joint flashing is so cost prohibitive. There are several less expensive options.
@@stich1960 what is trim coil? Please elaborate
Looks great Matt, I put James Hardie shingles on one side of my house and Boral boards with chamfered edges placed horizontally with mitered corners (no corner boards). Nice mix of traditional and contemporary elements for which I get a lot of compliments....even from UPS and FedEx drivers.
not martania huh
I’m glad you decided to let your painters finish the caulking LOL
Right! I thought I was the only one who saw that! Wtf??! Roflmaoo
I had purchased cement board siding years ago for a shed I had built that had a yellowish primer on it. I never painted it until last year and it looks amazing. I used Sherman Williams. I’d definitely recommend cement board.
It's refreshing to see someone doing things right and to the best of their ability when all the new builds around me are being done so wrong. Minimum code in Canada still allows builders to just slap houses together quickly, with almost no regard to efficiency other than the insulation R value requirements.
what issues are canadians facing
My hardy board siding is a year old on new construction and it's failing already. I have a couple spots where it's buckled and cracked. Worst install ever or poor product. Either way I'm looking at thousands of dollars in repair work on a house I just built.
@@SistaBadass66 Sadly I've seen that same issue in some of the new developments near me. Hardy is a quality product - I guarantee your problem is from poor installation. What sucks in a new build is that when you have a problem, it's often the contractor that poorly installed it that comes back to 'fix' it.
@@SistaBadass66 shouldnt their be warranty on a new build
@@randomrazr After seeing this video I realized the installers nailed wrong and contacted my builder. I got an email that said a supervisor was sent and install was done correctly. So frustrating but I'm over it and now that I know they don't care, I'm moving my emotional energy to just fixing the problem before it becomes a larger issue. My neighbor had a similar concern and the caulking crew showed up and emptied a few canisters on his home. After this video thankful @stonecoldcustoms told us that's not the correct avenue. It's the little wins that keep me positive.
Ive re-sided 2 houses with James Hardie fiber cement siding here in Ottawa, Canada. Love the product. Cuts easily and easy to nail on. Mine was 8.25 wide with a 7" reveal, came pre-painted and had a nail line 1 inch down from the top. I didn't have those joint backers so you can see the Tyvek in places but i used the Quad colour match against the trim boards on the corners and around the windows. Great video...but what is kellar?
I can't get over him pronouncing color as kellar constantly.
Love JH and the attention to detail waterproofing , 100 years until an exterior board needs replaced on this house. Great it’s color matched but I find OSI scary, no tooling, who is this good at caulking?! Black roof in TEXAS, somebody is cocky about their insulation! Great channel, I learn so much here.
Was caulking at the trim ends necessary? I thought I had seen other videos from this channel were they decided not to caulk Hardie board with this particular exterior construction.
Great video... One thing I never see any of the videos on hardy plank cover is the nail specs. E.g. what gauge of finish nail for trim and hardy plank where needed (other than the blind nailing). Or the actual nails for the hardy plank itself. Would you be able to post that in the comments 🙂
Thanks for a great in-depth look at your siding installation. I’m curious why you didn’t choose to add a Tesla solar roof and Powerwall to the house? In Texas you certainly have enough sun and given the failures of the grid this past winter I would have thought it would be a good time to have an independent power source.
Videos like this are what teaches me all the things that my previous bosses either never knew, or never bothered to teach me.
Thank you internet, for teaching me how to do things better than I was taught. Making my own workshop right now, it's gonna be overbuilt and done right 💪
I build in Minnesota and personally won't ever use it again. Too many issues with it cracking in the tempature swings we have.
I'm guessing it would have an issue in Colorado as well then. Wonder if humidity makes it worse though
-30 F in winter, upper 90s to 10p in summer.
In late winter/early spring, it could be 10 F today and 70 F tomorrow, so it can also swing hard and quick.
I agree, when I did home inspections we would see the James Hardie cracked at every house around the twin cities that used it. I personally prefer seamless steel siding.
Do you use regular vinyl instead? Genuinely curious, im also in a heating climate but a mild one
@@macthemec vinyl is the standard here like it is most places. It actually handles the extreme winters just fine. But when I lived in Missouri you could physically see the vinyl sag from the heat if there wasn’t enough nails put in.
Love the smooth. Very modern and clean looking.
I’m surprised your James Hardie doesn’t have a nailing line... I’ve only seen it with a nailing line.
That may just be the Cedarmill.
Matt, thanks for all the info on this one! Since James Hardie is our choice as well for siding, it really helps with the details. Looking forward to the upper rain screen detail with the siding! I'm still 'playing' around with my upper gable's detail and any ideas are always welcome! Classy end on this one as well! Good luck Andrew!!
“The framers really nailed it”
another good video. i am glad that risinger addressed the caulk issue with respect to the ventilated rainscreeen. i was wondering whether you really needed to do caulking with the rainscreen. my understanding from the james hardie instructions is that you either leave a gap and caulk the butt joints, or you use the flashing. why can't you miter the 2 ends at 45 degrees, prime the cut ends, and then overlap the 2 end pieces?
i have a question for risinger: why didn't you use aspyre siding for the house overall? one of the claimed benefits of the aspyre collection is that you can miter the corners. of course, a drawback is that factory finishing is not available with the asypre collection.
You'll never have to paint it because when you do you will be so old you'll have someone else do it...probably 30-40 years.
☝🏻
I've seen their factory finish need paint in less than 10 years here in kansas. Not uncommon at all and done by certified hardi installers. It fades like anything else over time. Also not buying any paint finish lasting 16years with heavy sun exposure
@@AK-rza yes the sun is the hardest thing on it , it ruins everything
HA.Not true here in Fl.
All depends on quality of paint, I just bought the best Sherwin Williams at $90 retail gal paid $55 on sale. I have some paint 40 yrs old on block south face FLorida that other then some chaulkiness still looks fine. Also, pure white in FL is best bet which adds to longevity, along with prep, quality of paint, gloss or semi, and of course on concrete not wood.
did you cover the venting soffit detail from 8:45 that you mentioned showing when you have it in hand. It's already installed at the end
Finish this house already! My wife keeps giving me a hard time every time I show her what great ideas you are incorporating but she’s really impatient and wants to see it finished...😂
Soon!
Nice details on the siding. I’m in MN, my Hardie had a nail line in the cedar texture siding.
It all does. Maybe it is hard to see through the plastic? I always peeled that off before i nailed
Never will I put siding on my house that requires caulking in Wisconsin. Seamless aluminum is the way to go for an upgraded material. Not sure if that's a thing in the south, but caulk in the North is a no-no if you want a maintenance-free exterior.
Acrylic caulk for sure, but there are some premiums sealants that are like a liquid poly/rubber if you will, that will out last the paint job.
Matt it looks amazing and you have helped me plan my home build. Absolutely love the zip tie nail gun marker. Buy that guy a Margarita!
I wouldn't touch cement board with a ten foot pole. I have seen to many with disintegrating siding.
People don't believe it " But it's made out of concrete !! .. Too close to the ground ,close to roof ,sitting atop Windows doors and penetration ,close to patios and decks .. It'll turn into complete crap fast .. It's great on a 4 corner house with a hip with no doors and windows .. 5 feet above grade lol
Is it that bad ?
@@augustreil mine sure isn't. but the leftover siding that's been sitting around in the weather for 15 years is a bit brittle.
@@kenbrown2808, Thanks, is there any siding out there that lasts more than 25yrs, besides brick ?
I put cement board on my house when I added on back in 2001 still looks the same! It's vertical siding.
Love the attention to detail Matt!
"Nailed the details" nice pun
I had some hardiplank put on my old house back in 2016 (I sold in 2019), and the installers gave me that exact equipment for further touch-ups if needed. (Luckily not needed; everything was still pristine when I sold the place. Had to move in with my elderly parents to help them out and the commute was too much.) I made sure the new owners knew what that stuff was for, and they appreciated it.
I can't get used to the way you pronounce colour lol. 👍🙂
You mean “Keller?”
@@buildshow Haha! Yes. I was hoping someone would mention this. I wonder if that’s a regional thing or just a family thing? Either way, definitely thought the product line was Keller+. Definitely couldn’t find it on the James Hardie website. 😅😂
@@ntopits He probably had Bell's palsy at some point in his life which affects his facial expressions and speech patterns. Without watching the video right now, I seem to recall my wife and I have speculated about it before. She had Bell's Palsy.
this is keller plus... thank you
Great stuff! Love the attention to detail, very professional looking finished product. I would have you side my house!
Holy shit that bead of caulk you laid is comparable to the size of texas!
the guy caulking has more moves than a bowl of jell-o 😂
Hey Matt, great video. Do you have a video that might show about soffits. Wether to know do you need to vent your soffit or leave it solid, witch looks like you have on your house. And what type of material to use. ThAnk you and great video
I geeked out when the contractor removed the James Hardie from my last house.
Why's that ?
The 8-1/4" cedarmill Hardieplank I've bought at the local big box had a nailing line imprinted on it - no guesswork. Weird tthat they don't do that on the 6-1/4" version?
Knee-jerk reaction: A black roof in Texas?!? Are you insane?!?
After a moment's thought: Oh yeah; his average R-value is about 12,000, so it's fine.
😜
Roof video coming soon!
@@buildshow Some surface temp readings on the roof during the summer would be cool
black aluminum is a thermal train wreck. black steel is not as bad. but keep in mind that asphalt shingles can get really hot, and the asphalt can hold heat.
@@buildshow when you do your video, one issue that i hope that you address is how slippery the roof is if you need to go on the roof to do maintenance tasks. the pitch of your roof doesn't seem too bad, but my roof has an 8:12 pitch, and one thing that i am wondering is whether that is too steep of a roof pitch.
We live in the desert in Eastern Washington and we ended up having to replace our Hardie Board siding after it buckled from heat damage in several areas on the Southern and Western sides of our house.
Our house is 12 years old and our original builder told us that the Hardie Board factory warranty was only good for 10 years. I wish you had did this video a little sooner, but oh well. LOL.
Because of that we went with LP Smart Siding and we are very happy with the way it turned out, but it was a bit more expensive.
Have you ever seen any thing like this with Hardie Board or LP Smart Siding with excessive heat?
Love the siding though, your house did look really nice. We went with a white siding and black trim to go with our black roof and it looks amazing. 👌
my parents went the other way - replaced the failing 1993 LP siding with Hardie in 2007. the house, today, looks better than the LP looked brand new. - though that was partly the sider's fault for doing a terrible install.
Haven’t heard of that. Weird
@@kenbrown2808 that's interesting and concerning at the same time. We heard a lot of good things about Hardie Board, but we were afraid to use the same product and have the same issue. Now, hearing about your parents issues with LP Smart Siding I hope we didn't make a bad decision by going with LP.
@@buildshow I'm guessing it's long walls butted tight. possibly installed during winter. surprised the LP is holding up. the LP on my parents' house moved up to a quarter inch in an 8 foot stick. it was a factory warranty case before they even got the keys.
@@Kabel717 you'll probably have better luck with the new generation LP in your dry climate. my parents' was the original LP.
Yeah that caulking looks like shit, not being tooled.
Sure does, looks horrible.
@Paul Taylor Who's relying on siding and caulking for waterproofing their house. Siding and caulking are for aesthetics and UV protection.
@Paul Taylor Siding and caulking keeps the bulk of the water out. But we don't care if water gets behind siding that's over a rainscreen. What water that does get behind the siding can freely drain and dry in the rainscreen, and the WRB prevents water from soaking into the sheathing/framing.
@Paul Taylor I'm not sure I understand what you mean by a "bevel back weatherboard system." And does it rely on caulk to seal all joints?
I'm so glad I watched this video. I live in Ohio and forever ppl have used vinyl siding but from seeing how it looks 20 years down the line it don't turn out very good and ends up looking wavy and also looks sun faded after some time. Not a very good choice in my opinion. I'm in the process of buying my first house and I'm about to take vinyl siding off and redo it with something that will last along time and I'm a big fan of this fiber concrete james hardy. I just love the way it looks and it gives it a more modern feel and you only see houses that's higher end around here not with vinyl siding so I think this same application will be my go to..
If you were sponsored by 3M you'd be telling people to wear masks 24/7.
Any mitigation strategies for the black roof? Heat island contriburtion/ heat absorption. Looks like trees will help shade some in the summer.
You forgot to include the youtube feature of declaring a Paid Sponsorship in your video. Doesn't have quite the same sell to it though huh.
is it not clear enough?
I’m confident that I met disclosure requirements on this video.
@@buildshow Send B D a pacifier.
Where did you source the pvc blocking from?
Very cool as I'm looking into this product. Interestingly here in the UK Hardie do NOT recommend caulking corners, but they DO recommend taping the battens with EPDM/DPC tape behind the cladding/siding.
A climate thing, or just different working practices?
When we first started using the prefinished Hardie siding five or six years ago, we had issues with the finish chipping or becoming damaged while handling the material. This created issues with having to then touch up a prefinished product. Has Hardie improved their process so that this doesn’t happen?
First off great video here and it definitely has me leaning back towards the Hardie product line versus Polyash (primarily because I think TruExt. & Duration "polyash material" do not warranty their product over furring strips over insulation.
My question is as follows; those furring strips look like 3/4x or 5/4x, in my research it seems like the Hardie Plank requires 1.5" for the required embedment of the nail when the furring is over insulation.. can you confirm this? I am going back and forth on the type of siding on my house, which I will be using furring over mineral board insulation.. I may also use 3.5" wide Armatherm z-girts @ 16" o.c. spacing (align with studs @ main wall) to keep the furring the exact dimension I need off the wall versus worrying about differing compression of the mineral boards when screwing through.. If I am able to use say a 5/4 board and meet all the requirements for the nailing & warranty would be great, but then again maybe the 2 x 4 furring will create a more level & stronger backing for the finish. Thanks in advance for a reply to this question and any recommendations you may have.
This prefinished siding you used here looks great!!
The way they do the siding joints is so much better than what I did replacing LP on my last house 18 years ago. Hardie was still recommending quad caulked butt joints.
Hey Matt on that air gap space , can I just do the 3/4 " wood vertical pieces without the foil face 2" insulation?
Matt, I grew up in Connecticut. Left there for Texas in 2015. We used lots of cedar clapboard for exterior siding. If any of it looked like the woodgrain version of Hardie there would be issues. True wood products that are painted are typically smooth, except for shingles. either red or white cedar.
Pre-finished Hardy board. Brilliant.
According to the consumer affairs link below the pre-painted siding is not doing so hot in the field. Yes, I am a 30 year painting contractor. Love the channel Matt!
No link, but what happens ? Thanks.
@@augustreil It fades just like any thing else that would be put on the siding
@@rob947534, Thanks, understand.
The porch ceiling for venting, I’ve been using v rustic type material so I’ll cut in custom openings all along one piece and attach some kind of metallic screen on the back side. Some people like one long vent too. Usually try to rout a detail like a bevel on the inside of the cut to match or get close to the v in the v rustic.
You guys are a pro You inspired me, with so much confidence explaining the process of siding being installed. Thank you so much for your time teaching us.
Great video as usual. I'm curious to see how you attach the gutters and downspouts....
That butt joint piece is pretty slick. Learned so much
Looking good down there Matt. I have a question of why the L P Solutions wants such a large gap in their siding? Hardie says but firm or I guess a feel it butted up where L P says a 1/16. In Texas on a hot day and installing wouldn't that 1/16 be a little aggressive, say if we sustained a week of temperatures in the teens?, which is not to uncommon in several places in Texas to have below freezing temps for that long. Just curious, and yes I seen the RR guy helping with a L P build in Texas..
Wood siding products can expand enough to cause buckling if butted tight during installation.
At 20:33, the window flashing is over the rainscreen. Correct me if im wrong - but dont you want flashing behind your rainscreen?
What air vent is that in the soffit? Finish work looks awesome!
I have Hardy siding. Boothbay blue and artic white looks amazing together.
Great help for installing lap siding
As you pointed out on the corner, one wall extends the hardie past the other and then gets the 3/8" caulk on the blind side. Is that all that is done to those corners? Does the excess Hardie get trimmed off somehow, or is it just left floating past the edge? Hope I asked that well.