Vulcan 1600 Classic - Clutch Bleeding
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ม.ค. 2021
- Thanks to Jose for the request to make this video. Bleeding the clutch fluid is very similar to bleeding the brake system, just more involved with removing the foot shifters and the alternator cover.
On the Vulcan 1600 Classic uses DOT4 brake fluid for the clutch system.
The tools you'll need for this job is a 5 mm allen wrench, a 10 mm wrench, and a 14 mm wrench for the floor board mounting bolt. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![KAWASAKI VULCAN 1500 [2004] How to change clutch , replacement by The Old Mechanic PART 4 👨🔧---🏍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U5CXdFh1dys/mqdefault.jpg)
Very good production! I just successfully performed this procedure thanks to you!
I'm glad the video was helpful
I absolutely love this video! I’ve already watched it over three times. The third time I was watching it on my TV and then my brother and mother sat down to watch with me and got inspired to help me work on my bike! I have a 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan drifter 1900. It needed a clutch bleed and I came across your video and was hooked. I don’t care what any negative comments say about your video. It’s helpful, inspirational and comedic! I went from not knowing how to bleed and fill the clutch, to being able to do it and understand it with my eyes closed (figuratively). You did an exception on reaching the crowd that has little to no experience working on a bike. Now, I’m on to your brake bleeding video. Keep doing what you’re doing! Thank you!!
Well, thank you very much. Just please keep in mind that I am not a mechanic. So my procedures might be different from others.
Great video. After sitting for a couple years, the flud leaked out of my clutch line and there was no pressure on the clutch lever at all. Thanks for the great videos. I wasn't sure what I was getting myself into.
Shouldn't be to hard to replace the clutch line. It will be a process, but not super difficult. Just make sure you bleed out the air.
Thank you very much for your video. My clutch was slipping but when i changed the oil and cleand the reservoir i works perfectly again. Keep making these great video’s! Greetings from Holland.
(Rob, VN 15 1990)
Well, thank you very much. I'm glad you like my videos and find them helpful.
I love getting messages from people overseas.👍
I have got to say I love your videos, I watch them all of the time and have learned so much about motorcycle maintenance from you.
Well thanks, I'm glad you fined my videos helpful.
worked great! thanks for the practical tricks and tips! very good video for me as a newbie :)
Excellent! I'm glad my video helped.👍
34024-1330 is the kickstand you want. I have the same 2007 Vulcan 1600 Classic and for some reason they shortened our kickstand to cause the heavy lean. Made a big difference. Also had to weld more metal on the frame where the stand bolts to due to it wearing down. Thanks for the content!
Cool, thanks.
Excellent video. Love the content. Was looking for videos on how to change the levers with master cylinders and found your video. Very detailed when explaining the process on bleeding the system. I just bought clutch and break master cylinder levers for my 02 Vulcan 1500. Thanks and keep up the great content.
Thank you. I'm glad you like my content and video style. Especially happy you find my videos helpful.
Thanks for watching, and the comment. Good luck with changing the levers and masters.
Thanks for the video,it really helped with the clutch fluid change. Appreciate it!!!
Good to hear and glad it helped👍
Thank you Sir, I have successfully replaced the dot 4 in my clutch !!!!!
Awesome! Good for you. Glad my video was helpful.
Thank you for your hidralic clutch Bleeds Video I just bought 07 Nomad with 8500 miles and it’s grinding a little between first to second & third gear , got a little play on my clutch level but I bleed mine my clutch first and go from there . Thanks
Wow, that's pretty low miles. Good luck. I hope the fluid change works and the grinding stops.
Keep me informed.
There are indentations on the end of the shifter shaft for alignment of the shifters. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for the tip and for liking and watching.
Nice bike old man lol I'm 64 and love it
Haha, thanks man👍
The shift levers and shaft are indexed as others have said. They are also adjustable with no problems. I have big feet and use to inadvertently hit neutral because of my heel. I moved the toe up one spline and the heel down. Problem solved; My bike is now perfect for me as I don't use heel shifter much. Just a tip that might help others.
Good tip, Thanks👍
Thx for the tips! Good videos!
I'm glad you like my videos, and find them helpful.
Appreciate the video alot thx Mark.
Thanks for watching
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
The forward and aft shift levers are stamped with a punch dent to reference there position on the spline. The spline also has the punch (index) mark to align with shift lever.
I was not aware of that. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching👍
Appreciate your videos, you helped me change brake pads and now I'm going to do clutch fluid. I've done the cam chain tensioner extenders, have you? Love to see your video just for comparison. Thanks again.
Thank you, I am glad you like my videos.
No, I have not changed the chain tensioners. I have had no reason to perform a replacement.
Excellent video.I noticed you have car tyre on the back,could tell what size it is?
I have 2001 1500 nomad and I'm considering going to the darkside(car tyre) on the back wheel.
Thanks.
Check out my tire changing video, for the tire size.
Hi, great video. Is the bracket for your saddle bags the original or a custom one? I have the same saddle bags as you and I'm looking for a bracket that fits for my VN1500. Thanks.
They are a Kawasaki "Fire and Steel" brackets.
www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1600-03-08-Chrome-Saddlebag-Supports-Steel-Construction-OEM/271239150760?mkevt=1&mkcid=28&chn=ps&pageci=2a275680-7bc3-4d17-b614-9a3aedc59f9e
Don't know if they will work with a 1500. Just do a Google search for a "Vulcan 1500 Saddlebag Bracket."
Great video. Thank you. What size tubing did you use on the bleeder valve?
3/16th
Thanks for watching
fantastic video just a couple of questions are the toe and heal shifter splined at the pivot point and do you have to run the bike with a heal shifter i have never made friends with them ?
Yes, they are splined at the pivot point and you can remove the heal shifter arm if you so desire.
Hey, I got a push rods till I got pushed in do you know how I would be able to get it out or do I take the whole thing apart?
I don't know
What passing bar are you using on the front of your bike? I have an 06 vulcan nomad 1600 and I'm sure whatever you're using will fit in mine!
Truthfully, it's been so long ago that I don't remember.
Have a 2003 1600 classic since new and was wondering if you have replaced the stator/s?
No, I have not had to replace the stator yet.
Great video 👍 Ps wondering where you got your clear short windshield from ?. I like your one as it's not too tall.
That windshield was an aftermarket, OEM part from Kawasaki. I believe it is the tallest version, but they came in a small and medium size, too.
Hey,anyone knows where to get Brake Master Cylinder Clutch and break that fits a 1988 vulcan 88?
Have you tried ebay?
Where did you get the back rest for your seat
It's a Grasshopper backrest. I got it when they came to our Vulcan Riders Association rally in 2016. It literally changed the comfort of my ride. I love it.
i got a 96 kawasaki 1500 that has a really stiff clutch will changing the fluid make a difference or would i have to replace the valve ? bike runs and drives fine its just the clutch thats hard to press on my 99 nomad i can pich the clutch wt 2 fingers no problem but the 96 1500 you have to get a good grip to get it going
Start with the fluid change, if that doesn't fix the issue, try replacing the valve, and if that doesn't work, you might have to replace or rebuild the slave cylinder. If none of that works, you might have an issue with the clutch springs or something with the basket itself.
Just take it one step at a time.
@@ChefHikerBiker thank for the quick reply i will keep you posted to se what the problem was !!!
No problem. Can't wait to hear back from you.
Hi, I get 2006 nomad, I like yours video. Did you change the rubber boot at the drive chaff?
I have to change my. How difficult it is?
Have idea?
Thanks.
Glad you like my videos.
Sorry, I haven't changed the rubber boot.
I'm not a mechanic, but it shouldn't be to difficult. If you have a service manual it's very helpful. Best $30 you can spend.
Going off the top of my head, I would say: remove the rear axle, unbolt the shaft from the bevel gear drive and the shaft drive mounting bolts, pull the whole shaft drive assembly back, then just pull the boot off. I highly suggest you grease the shaft's splines before you put it all back together.
Again, I'm not a mechanic and don't know the exact steps or process.
@@ChefHikerBiker
Thanks so much, I'm very happy for your answer.
I'll keep watching you.
Thanks Carlos.
Maybe one day I'll make a video on removing the drive shaft boot.
Thanks Mark, what size tire are you dark-siding on the rear?
it's a 195/60 R16
Thank you@@ChefHikerBiker
You're very welcome
Have you ever replaced the generator/alternator? If so did you have to lift motor to clear frame? thanks
I have not had to replace the alternator. Don't quote me on this, but, I believe the proper way to replace it, is to pull the motor. However, I think I've seen people, in videos; cut the frame, do the replacement, and re-weld the frame back together.
@@ChefHikerBiker Thanks, bought mine new in 2003 still have it with about 68k , still have to do a couple of tests but seems it needs replacing, do have new ones already but just don't have the time anymore to fiddle with it much less ride, probably spring, but I will never cut frame , saw one of those videos. service manual tells you how to do it, just takes a few days of careful tinkering.
Yep, just follow the service manuel. Or take it to the shop and pay a professional to do the job for you. There are many things I won't do and need a pros help with. That's why Angel is in the shop now. I kinda know what it might be, but I want them to make sure.
@@ChefHikerBiker working on finding a reliable mechanic , I live in PR and after Maria most kaw techs moved to europe
Great video. I just bought an 06 meanstreak 1600. With only 8k miles, The clutch is super hard to pull and it stalls everytime,or lurches badly then stalls when trying to take off .
I was told the clutch was replaced then it started doing this....any ideas?
Does the clutch lever have any loose play, when you first pull it, or is it hard right away?
@@ChefHikerBiker hey I have a 2004 Vulcan nomad and mine doing exactly what you are saying,it's loose ,then get harder
Typically a clutch lever has a 1/4 inch or so of "free play" before the lever engages any resistances. Do you have the small free play. If not you might have to simply clean and lube up the levers pivot point. If not, then you will have to dig further.
You do things the hard way,take the floorboard off first,2 bolts,the shifter shaft has a dimple on it for the rear lever,a mark with a sharpie works for the front.
I'm learning as I go. As you can tell, I'm no expert at doing this stuff.
But thanks for your helpfull comment and for watching.
Not sure I understand what you think is rude
I did my front and rear brake fluid today and will be doing the clutch in another day. I didn’t soak up the fluid with a towel I pumped it out through the bleeder. Poured in the new fluid and with the bleeder open I pumped new fluid through the system. Then bled the brakes as normal
Good on ya!
That is another way to do it. I like doing the towel method because I can scrub the gunk buildup out of the corners, and there's less pumping and bleeding to do.
Hey Mark! another great video!
was wondering does your Vulcan clunk while you shift up or down? Mine does and I hate it.what could be causing it?
and is it something to be concerned about and a possible problem developing? Thank you for your response back in advance!
The clunk of the shifting is normal. The Vulcan has a heavy clutch. Just think of the clunk as the gears of the transmission securely locking into place. What helps the most is to make sure your shifting into the proper gear for the speed you're doing. For example; don't try putting it in 1st gear when you're doing 30mph., but wait until you get down to 10 or 15.
Thank you for your response!
Could you tell me if it's ok to change the oil with Rotella 15-40 Thank you.
A 15w-40 will work just fine.
15 weight are for atmospheric temps as low as 23°F/-5°C.
The 40 weight is for atmospheric temps as high as 104°F/40°C.
If you live and ride in a colder climate, use a 10w-40. If you live and ride in a hotter climate go with a 10 or 20w-50.
Thank you very much I just changed the oil with Rotella T4 15w40 I'm about to go for a little ride now and see if maybe it will help to smooth out shifting prior to changing my oil shifting would always be a lot smoother when the engine was still cold up until it got hot and you're right it makes a difference when shifting down at a much slower speed I don't know why since I squeeze the clutch all the way but eather way the clunking sound like there's a clutch issue even though it's fine.
Let me know how the ride goes👍
I've seen people put some kind of sealer on the cap on the reservoir to make sure no air gets into it. Have you ever done that? If not have you ever had any problems with air or moisture getting into it?
No, I have never considered putting sealant around the break or clutch master cylinders. And NO ONE should. There is a reason why the manufacturers put air vents in the design of these systems. They need air movement, both in and out. As the break, pistons or the clutch, push rod moves, air needs to enter through the master to fill the void of the fluid that's push into the lines. Plus, as those systems are used, the fluid expands and air needs to be pushed out; otherwise the pressure could burst your hoses or seals.
DO NOT put sealant around your master covers. It is cheap and easy to replace the fluid. Much more expensive to replace a ruptured line and the hospital or funeral cost because you couldn't stop when the lines blew.
@@ChefHikerBiker Thank you for your insight. I'm learning how to do more of my maintenance. So i see what dealers do vs. what i see on youtube. What you say makes sense to me.
Thanks for asking and for watching. If you have any other questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'll do what I can to help you out.
@@ChefHikerBiker Awesome, thank you. LOL i'm sure i'll have more as i work on the bike more.
What do you ride?
I have a 95 88 1500 and I worked perfectly before I changed my handlebars and had to get longer lines I have bleed my clutch no more air and its firm but my clutch still isn't working
Maybe you need to replace the clutch pack
@@ChefHikerBiker it was working fine noting wrong with it before changing my bars
Maybe the line got kinked or pinched or maybe some scaley debris broke off and is clogging the line. Maybe the clutch lever pump got damaged. There are a lot of "maybes." Without seeing it, there's not much I can do. Talk to your local shop and ask them about.
@@ChefHikerBiker i can see the clutch being pushed out when the levers being pulled. No local shop wants to do hydraulic work
I'm sorry, I don't know what to tell you. I'm not a mechanic. I can just give you some things to check that I've learned over my lifetime, and without seeing it, I can't give you any more information.
Can you run the bike with just a toe shifter?
Yes you can, they are 2 separate shifter arms. I'm so used to the heal shifter, I don't know if I could ride without one. Hahaha
@@ChefHikerBiker thank you
No problem.
You're the kind of guy I'd want in my shop (meticulous), but the downside is that your video is excruciatingly long.
I'm flattered that you think I'm that good a mechanic.
As for the video lengths; I want to show everything, including my mistakes and talk my viewers through each step. If I shorten the video, I might end up cutting out something that someone might deem important.
I lost pressure doing this procedure. Anyway to get the pressure back
You must have drawn air into the system. You'll need to bleed it out.
@@ChefHikerBiker how do I go about that
You bleed It out same way you did the bleeding to get the new fluid in, but this time you're not waiting for the fluid change your waiting for air to be pulled out of the system.
Another way to do it, and it will depend on where the air is getting trapped; take off the master cylinder cover and just squeeze the lever a few times and see if you get any air bubbles to come out. If no air comes out then most likely the air is down by the slave cylinder in which going through your bleeding process should draw it out. You could also use a syringe with a hose attached. Attach the other end to the bleeder nipple, crack open the bleeder nipple, and draw out the air with the syringe. Just make sure you don't empty the master cylinder and draw air in through the top.
@@ChefHikerBiker thank you. I will try this
Silly me...I thought all Vulcans had wet clutches. 🙄😁
I think they all are. As far as I know, most motorcycles are wet clutches.
@@ChefHikerBiker hmm I am so confused. Lol ...I thought if you change your oil your clutch gets drained as well.
I think I see where you are getting confused. When people say "clutch" they can be talking about 2 different mechanisms; either the clutch basket in the engine case, or the clutch lever of your hand controls.
In answer to your question, Yes, when you change the engine oil, your wet clutch oil is changed too.
A wet clutch uses engine oil to lubricate the clutch basket, springs, the pressure plates and all that, inside the engine case. Because of the way some bikes are designed, they might have 2 or even 3 drain plugs in order to the drain the oil completely out of the clutch or the bevel gear drive.
A dry clutch, however, has no engine oil lubricating the clutch basket in the engine case. Because there is no lubrication, those clutch systems are loud as hell.
The clutch control lever, on you handlebars, is a separate mechanism, and works the same way your disk brakes do, and has no bearing on if the clutch is considered wet or dry. When you pull in the lever, the clutch fluid (which is technically brake fluid) pushes a small piston, which pushes a rod and releases pressure off the clutch plates inside the engine case. Thus, allowing you to shift or reve the engine without moving.
Just because you change your engine oil, does not mean you've changed the brake/clutch fluid of the hand controls. And the same goes for when you bleed your clutch fluid; you are changing the fluid of the clutch hand controls, not the engine oil.
The engine's clutch and hand control's clutch are two separate mechanisms, but are typically both called "clutch." So, if somebody says, "Your clutch is slipping." They are most likely talking about the clutch in your engine case. If somebody says, "Pull in your clutch." They're most likely talking about your hand control lever.
I sincerely hope this helps clarify any confusion you're having.👍
@@ChefHikerBiker thanks so much. That was a very clear and concise explanation. I certainly do appreciate it. Learn something new every day I suppose. 👍
Thank you for the comment and I hope you're enjoying my videos.
I need to start working on my 2001 Vulcan for the one reason I can’t find anyone that will work on it? 20 mechanics around! Only one will work on it and he’s a slow, hack , ripoff! Everyone only works on rice rockets nowadays!?!?
Yeah, I remember taking my bike to a shop, just down the road, for an oil change. They said they wouldn't do it. Because it's not a brand they work on.