Reverse Bleed Brake Fluid Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ธ.ค. 2017
- Shows how to replace brake fluid using the reverse bleed method. If done correctly it's quick and easy to bleed air out of the system. Be careful not to spill brake fluid over anything as it's corrosive.
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A tip that is popular when bleeding mtb brakes is to pull on the syringe before you open the bleed valve. You’re trying to create a vacuum in the syringe, when you do you will see loads of small air bubbles form in the fluid, flick the syringe with your finger to get them to float to the top of the syringe. Just another little thing to get that nice firm lever feel.
When I want to learn how to do some type of maintenance on my bike, I don't even use google, I come straight to your channel and look here first. Thank you for producing excellent tutorials, I love how clear and easy to follow your instructions are. Also, I'm fairly sure your accent makes you at least 100% more credible. 👍
Dammit! I do this for years and never came to my mind to use a ziptie for securing the hose on bleeder valve:)
Best way of doing it. Air rises to the top. I have been doing this for years, so simple.
Thanks! This workedd great! I tried everything before I reverse filled it like you recommend. I literally worked on these brakes for an entire day. I saw your video when I was about half way through with day 2. Much appreciated!
Very good. For years I’ve bled brakes but never thought of doing it in reverse. I like it.
This is a great video. The only thing I could add is to make sure your brake line always has an upward trajectory, not bend downwards to your reservoir otherwise air could still get trapped.
Excellent vid.. nice and clear. May I add that topping off the brake fluid to the max level should only be done when new pads are fitted. Topping up to the max level on the reservoir with part or well worn pads will only cause you headaches later when you come to change the pads for new ones because the fluid can overflow from the top of the reservoir as the piston/s are pushed back into the caliper/s and the fluid level rises making a mess, unless of course you drain some excess off prior to fitting said new pads. (not everybody follows this practice and the reality is brake fluid leaks through the tiny air holes present in the underside of the cap/lid that are designed to allow the seal/diaphragm to take up the slack as the level falls and the pads wear) Not being critical my friend just some helpful advice if it's any use.
Wise words!
Even then people tend to squeeze the brake piston all the way in which might make the reservoir overflow
The caliper piston is roughly 3 times. Larger than the master cylinder piston. .
With that said when you push the caliper piston in just look how much pressures your are putting on the seals & cups , roughly 12 mm caliper piston. I have ruined even new master cylinders with that method. What to do is open the bleeder on the caliper to relieve the pressure you create when pushing the caliper piston back in. Or just take your chances.
You can completely avoid this by opening the brake bleeder when pushing the pistons back, i do not understand why people jump through hoops when its the easiest method.
And using a pair of calipers to measure brake fluid level is just psychopathic.
I used this method when I installed new brake lines on my honda hornet! it works brilliantly,so easy.
very good brother, I'm from Brazil, and his care and maintenance tips like these are very useful, as here the cost for off road bikes is high. Nothing better than taking care of our own
Thank you so much! Easy and best method I’ve ever seen. Worked perfectly for me.
Same technique works well for reverse bleeding hydraulic clutches.
Nice vid. May I add, after emptying the reservoir, I like to cover the reservoir with a cloth, because sometimes the new brake fluid can sputter through the tiny orifice in the reservoir and tiny drops can splash out the reservoir. The cloth prevents that splashing. Or, just add in a tiny layer of new brake fluid after taking out the old fluid.
After a 1/2 hr of searching , I find this the best video ! No Mity Vac needed !
Some people put a bit of PTFE tape on the bleed nipple threads. It's to stop air seeping in around the threads.
Worked like a charm. I tried reverse bleeding and was still was getting bubbles after many many attempts. The key was using the zip ties to keep it sealed the entire time. The zip ties wouldn’t work with the clear 1/4in PVC tubing I got from Lowes, it was way too thick/stiff to clamp through with the ties, kept falling off. What worked for me was silicone tubing like you commented. Ended up using the tubing made for breastfeeding pumps. It looks like it’s too small for the bleeder valve but it stretches over it with some effort, then it clamps down good because it’s so soft/thin. Depressed the caliper pistons with a flathead screwdriver(twist it for the leverage) then pushed through 4 reservoirs of fluid and got the lever super firm the first time. Took me about 10mins total!! Thanks!
Hope this helps someone else. Wish me luck with stoppies.
Pleased to hear that you were successful in the end. Next time should be a lot quicker. Yes, silicone hose is definitely better...
Just went and got my brother a 06 636 I’ve just been trying to bleed his front brakes spent like 2 hours and still had so much air. Got pissed and started to do more research found reverse bleeding went out got all the stuff went to reverse bleed and still the brake didn’t feel stiff enough. Started searching through the comments and found this one went out got silicone tubing and worked like a charm brake finally feels perfect!
@@jib7793 glad it helped man
Obviously you won't succeed that way. Air enters the system through the bleeder thread. This method ONLY works if you seal the thread with grease.
@@iulianc9037 the fluid acts as a grease seal for me. Only crack the bleeder 1/4 turn. Actually just did it 2 days ago, only took about 15 mins and the brake lever is very firm
Used this method today. After doing some research the internet is riddled with brake bleeding horror stories, and I was hesitant to do it on my own. This method was so easy and worked instantly. I have piggybacked brake lines on my front, and worked from the furthest path to cylinder, I didnt even have to inject from the 2 nd closest. I found the rear brake had a bit of air, maybe because its on a horizontal plane. But i then after did the normal method of squeeze-open-close, and it got rid of any bubbles. This IS the best way to bleed brakes for flushing or new lines.
Such a cute pup. Love him
I did it this way yesterday I injected the fluid and brake perfect 4 times! The best way I know.
Of course, everything has been reset and cleaned and a new liquid in the whole system!
Best regards! Good movie!
Good. Ideah
It work! Tried the traditional method before, and had quite a hard time. When i tried this method, it took less than 1 min. Thank you very much.
Great, pleased to hear it worked well.
Again, Love your videos. Nice and clean work.
I can't thank you enought. After 10 attempts to bleed my brakes the "normal" way I wasn't able to build pressure. Doing it like this it was done in 5 minutes. Thank you so much!!
Pleased to hear it was successful. Reserve bleeding works well for the clutch line too.
You missed a step. That bleeder valve is above the brake line fitting. When you are pushing fluid in through the bleed screw, air can remain trapped in the top of the caliper ( in the upper piston bore and resettle in and around the bleeder passageway). You can't push the fluid through there fast enough to guarantee you get all the air. Before you called the job done, you should have pumped up the master cylinder and cracked open the bleed screw again to expel any remaining air that may still be in the caliper above the brake line fitting. Yes your brake may feel "ok" and function, but why not add the final step and make sure the air is expelled.
Good tip. Although I’ve never had an issue reverse bleeding the front brake as shown in the video, what you’re suggesting would only take a few extra seconds to do and help ensure a full bleed.
To use a medical term, you can flag the syringe at the end to verify there is no air. As in draw the syringe back and see if there is any air trapped and at the same time bring the fluid down to the fill level on the M/C if necessary.
Clear instructional video, I have came across to two different videos of yours, and you've earned a subscriber.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I have lots of new videos planned which hopefully will be of interest too...
brilliant.After pumping the break lever like over 100times to get the bubbles and break to firm up this is far superior method.Learn something new thank you
Pleased to hear that it helped!
Grate video. Seems a much simpler way of doing it. Cheers
This is the best way of doing it. Zip tie brake lever to bar for a few days so full pressure is built up if your not gona ride straight away.
Brake cleaner is so toxic and is not needed. Use soap and water mixed in a spray bottle. Use small scrub brush when cleaning. Also, brake cleaner around the brake pads will dry them out and they will squeak horribly. Great video mate, you are the best of all time with repair videos and thank you so much for everything!!! Without your vids we would lost and doing things incorrectly, much appreciation for all your knowledge you've shared, etc.
Excellent video and nice bike, thanks!
74 Thumbs Down?????
What is wrong with people?
Mark, you have the most informative Instructional Videos out there. Keep up the great work. Big Fan.
I do enjoy reading through the comments as well as you can pick up additional tips. Some of the complaints drive me crazy though. Reminds me of the time I was watching this History of Fleetwood Mac show on TV and there was this part where Santana was saying “ I told Peter he should have done this, he should have done that”. I almost threw the TV through the window!
Just finished the bottom end video. Couldn’t put it down. Think I will skip the actual rebuilding of the crank though. A little over my head. I’m better at taking things apart as compared to putting them back together properly.
Thanks and pleased you enjoyed the bottom end rebuild series...
A VERY IMPRESSIVE AND EFFECTIVE TUTORIAL ON CORRECT BRAKE BLEEDING ! GREAT WORK...MANY THANKS
Thank you so much. worked like a charm. took my 350 out for a ride and crashed lol. break works. lol
Always remove the calliper,and pads,hang the calliper so bleed valve is at the bottom,proceed with syringe,then once all.done flick the lever a few times,add correct amount of fluid in reservoir,clean thoroughly with brake cleaner and reassemble,great vid.
Utilized your brake bleeding method as described, worked perfectly. Did the same method for the hyd clutch, same perfect outcome. Watching this and other of your tutorials, notice changes to your machine, on this one the Impact wheels. Am always chasing maint on my KTMs to keep them near optimum condition for long rides big on fun low on issues. KTM should have a contract with you for this good work. Thanks again.
Simple and neat. Great bro. Thanks
Worked beautifully, thank you
Pleased to hear that it went smoothly for you.
ON my motorcycles, I could not build pressure when I did traditional way, with this way it was quick,,, I think the reverse bleed for brakes and clutch is the best way, it build pressure in the system when you do it this way as well,,,,,good video
Outstanding content as usual. Thank you!
Thank you for posting this!
Hi mate great vid as usual, one tip I use is when finished bleeding is to fill the master cylinder up to the top so when I put the lid on it overflows with fluid, this means there is no air in with the brake fluid. Then if you crash / flip the bike etc no air can travel down the brake hose. 😊
i did this yesterday ( great and easy method ).
Very good job and thank you for sharing it.
mine was spongy too after air got in ,just did this worked good,
Great vid 👍 Doing the brakes on my BMW R1100RS but the ABS II unit seems to be stopping the fluid flow using a Mityvac. The front reservoir doesn’t empty at all using this method.
Hoping a reverse bleed will do the trick.
Awesome video, This helps a lot!!
Best tutorial out there
Funguje skvele...odporucam! Husqvarna TC 610....Brembo brake system😉
very informative, to the point, thanks
Good Video. Like your channel👍👍👍
Awesome video duderacious!
Would you make any special modifications to the brake line while bleeding as on my 2013 KTM 300 xc the brake line sticks up and over the master cylinder at any angle the bars are at. Sometimes I'll loosen the top banjo bolt so the line is angled lower than horizontal then reposition once I've bled the system.
This is the best way to service the brake if it’s single disc system
Quick and easy
The vacuum method that most shop use takes longer to bleed from completely empty systems
Fantastic video , can i ask you where you got the rubber hose from it seems really good quality. Cheers .
Great way of doing it!👍👍👍👍
a perfect video ..... like a surgeon
Nice video, thanks.
Tried this, and like another commenter, I couldn’t get the fluid to push to the cylinders, it just wanted to come out the bleeder screw threads. Also, I’m glad it didn’t work because my front bleeder had a bunch of dirt in it and by bleeding down from the master, it flushed all the dirt out instead of into the system. So if you do this method, make sure your bleeders are cleaned out. This reverse method did work great for me on the clutch though.
If you can’t push fluid up it indicates that the master piston is not in the correct position (is not fully out), or something is broken. Yes, it’s important to clean off any dirt from the nipple before reverse bleed. If the nipple cap has stayed on all the time during use it should be clean inside. Pleased to hear it worked well for your clutch.
Thanks for sharing and your time. I also grease the ""threads"" on the brake bleeder itself so no air can leak or get sucked past them. As you know threads have play from one to the other.
Great video! I'm struggling to get new fluid into the line. It just leaks at the nipple thread with a lot of force on the syringe. Drain valve is 1/2 turn open or better. Thanks!
Maybe a suggestion : Using conventional method, bleed old brake fluid by pressing brake lever and opening and closing ur bleed nipple. It may clear the blockage which may be present.
Then use your reverse brake bleed method using syringe method. I think your bleed nipple is blocked from old fluid gumming up some debri.
I have got the same! Did you manage to solve it?? Was it blocked?
very likely you did not open the valve bolt enough
I've been doing it this way since 1985. Some bikes (every Japanese bike I've owned) will suck air in around the bleeder screw threads. Don't open the valve any more than needed to get fluid to go in.
How does the air traped in the upper part of caliper travel down to brake line that enters the caliper at its middle to go upstream to fluid reservoir?
A solid tutorial.
A caliper to measure fluid level. Now that's accuracy.
This is the kind of guy that buys sock hangers, lol.
Thanks for this, I bleed my front brake with no problems :) The rear is giving me trouble, I opened the rear fluid revisor and opened the bleed valve, but when I try to push new fluid in there is a lot of resistance. When I push harder the fluid pushes out just after the bleed valve (coming out the threads I think) do I need to open any other bolts on the brake line? what am I doing wrong?
I had this issue too, open the valve more and it should help.
Thanks for this! How hard are you pushing the syringe? I back-bleed mine yesterday and had to press the syringe with my knee to move fluid. Bleed nipple was open, no obvious blockages.
I have to press hard, but nothing crazy. Maybe it’s an issue with the syringe you have. Reverse bleeding is popular with mountain bikers and I know there are some nicely designed syringes for that. I haven’t tried any other syringes than what is shown in the video, so don’t have any specific recommendations
Use smaller (thinner) syringe. Easier to press.
excellent! trying this tmrw. I replaced a brake line and I just can pump enough to move fluid thru..remove air.... my hands are sore!
I much prefer this method. Same as doing it on a bicycle, much easier and faster than pumping the lever 1000 times
You will get some leakage at the bleeder with this method because the bleader's threads are not fully sealed. Maybe wrap the threades with tefelon tape before starting. You might find that a bit of safety wire twisted about the tube at the bleeder makes a more secure connection. Always have a wet shop rad handy when messing with brake fluid.
great video thanks !
Glad you liked it!
Good video ! Does the rubber out the seringe not fight agianst the brake fluid ?
Not so far. I've used the current syringes for about 4 years and they're fine. I purchased them in an auto parts store so they're intended for you with brake fluid.
I started using this method after purchasing and installing the Rekluse Left Hand rear Brake that comes with two syringes.. Only difference is the Rekluse Master Cylinder doesn't have an external reservoir but has a separate bleed Nipple on the lever assembly that the other syringe fits on to and the excess fluid and air goes into.. Great method and video.. Thanks for sharing..
Just come across this video, brilliant fair play. Need to do my Vespa soon, got the kit ready, just hope I don't want to replace full brake system 🙏being stood here six years. The resovoir is quite empty at moment. How much brake fluid will it take?
Typical units only take about 100ml or so. If you have a 500ml bottle you'll be fine...
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for getting back to me very much appreciated 👍
You want to check the level of fluid compared to the amount of wear on the brake pads. That way when you change pads you won’t over flow the master when you compress the pistons.
Is the method the same for twin discs? Which one do you do first?
Good on you ! Thanks for the reminder to use pressurized reverse feed. You can also use water to clean up - water displaces and neutralizes brake fluid.
you know...I wonder if this method will work on car's...great video
Please do this for the rear brakes plez.
Good.... + 1. From France
Greetings. I love your videos, which I find to be very informative. I have not had success in reverse-bleeding my 200 XC-W. I open the caliper bleed screw about 1/2-Turn and I cannot get ANY fluid to flow, no matter how hard I push on the plunger of the syringe. It bulges the silicone tubing out like a bad side-wall of an automotive tire, and NO fluid flows. I can't for the life of me figure out what I must be doing wrong. It sure looks to me like I'm doing it as you show in your video. Might you have any thoughts or suggestions on what I'm not doing right? Thanks again, Mark
The most likely cause is that the master piston is partially engaged and if so will not let fluid pass into the reservoir. Make sure that the lever position is adjusted out enough so it isn't pushing on the piston. On a side note it's important to have some free travel (spec is greater, or equal to 3mm) or you are at risk of the brake being applied when the fluid heats up.
@@TokyoOffroadthank you, Kind Sir, for your comment. Yes, actually, the piston may have actually been engaged. I had the lever adjusted all the way out, and then some, to take out the slack. The adjuster was threaded out farther than usual, which was likely applying some pre-load throught the actuator rod and onto the piston. My neighbor helped me do a tradional bleed and i now have a firm lever. I then installed a Midwest Mountain Engineering shorty lever and it works well. I was originally discouraged about the little "free play" I have with that setup, but your explanation makes sense and I'll keep it that way. I will re-attempt this the next time it's needed. Thanks again for all you do, especially the personal reply, SO helpful!! Peace!
i always push the brake pistons back when i change it because when the pads are worn out very ugly black fluid stays behind them even when new brake fluid is up in the reservoir
good thecnic and save time for bleed air bubble
Good Vid Tokyo, quick question if i may - roughly how much fluid do you need for each clutch, F and R Brake? Tia
Jonathan Bradley - They take very little. 250ml should be enough to do everything.
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you - all the best Jon
does opening the bleed valve allow air to enter the system between the caliper and the valve screw? I've noticed I have to open the valve screw quite a lot before I can start pushing fluid in. Wondering if air is getting sucked into the system. How much are you opening the bleed valve - 1/8 or 1/4 turn?
Awesome! What size ID tube are you using if I might ask?
Thanks! The tube (silicone) internal diameter is 4mm
Tokyo Offroad thank you
@@TokyoOffroadthanks for the info, saved me buying a few sizes to trial 👌
Hello, I'm rebuilding a Honda CB-1. I've fitted a new repair kit to the front master cylindet and followed your instructions, I'm getting new fluid into the reservoir but can get no pressure at all on the lever. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Many thanks, Ian
The most common reason for not being able to get pressure is because there is still air somewhere. Try reverse bleeding a few more times. And if it’s still not OK try regular bleeding a couple of times.
Thanks for the reply, since writing I've mad some progress so should be ok. Ian
I like that loop on the syringe. Where did you get that? Thanks
I got one just like that at Menards, like 4 dollars
This method only works well if you put Teflon tape on the bleeder thread. Otherwise, the air will enter inside
Can you reverse bleed the rear brake too?
Would this method eliminate the need to bench bleed master cylinder on a car?
THANK YOU
Any advice on where to get the syringe from ?
Can you do a video on this method for the rear brakes please.
It is exactly the same way with your rear brake and clutch
I don't know what all the fuss is about doing it this way (reverse). I think it's also more difficult to get rid of all the old fluid if trying to have fresh fluid. It's easier to let it drain into a container from Gravity. I just pumped the brake lever to pressurize, then crack open the bleed port to let fluid out the bleed port with the brake lever held in compression and let it drain out into a container. Close then close bleed port, then release lever, add fluid to reservoir when needed to stay above ports and repeat. This takes less tools. I didn't need two syringes and carefully fitted hose on the bleeder port. This is pretty much the standard way to bleed car brakes. I flush the entire system of old fluid in the process and get a firm brake lever when finished.
The advantage of the reverse bleed method is if there is air in the system it's much quicker to get a full bleed. If there is no air in the system then the traditional bleed works fine too. In my experience the reverse bleed is much easier to do on your own as compression of the brake lever is not required. My experience of reverse bleeding is that it's quick and easy to do. Traditional bleeding not so much (particularly if there is air trapped).
@@TokyoOffroadI’ve put about 100-150ml of fluid through my front brake system today and it improved but it’s still spongy - I suspect the reverse bleed is going to use the same or less fluid and also be more likely to have a successful outcome first time so less faff. I tried the Stretch Armstrong DIY approach then got help from the mrs to pull the lever and it was like a scene from the Chuckle Brothers 😅
Im gonna try this today,i rebuilt my brake calipers and i cant bleed it properly even with a vacuum pump,hopefully this works
If you were just bleeding the system and not filling a dry line, would you still use this method? The bottom couple inches of fluid always seem to be the darkest. Bleeding using this method would push the bad fluid through the entire system ?
Yes, I still use reverse bleeding for replacing fluid. So long as you replace all of the fluid I don’t think there should be a concern. AFAIK the discoloration is due to heat rather than contamination so I think this is a non issue.
Thank You.
Congrats, nice video. Same process to replace clutch fluid?...
Yes, same for the clutch and rear brake...
Thanks so much 😉👍
Witch turn signals are them?
brilliant - too bad none of the parts stores sell the syringes where I live. Have been looking for them ... but no luck ...
Drug stores sell the tubing and syringe
What if the hand brake wont allow the fluid to flow in reverse? I loosen the upper banjo bolt and reverse flow pushes fluid UP. When I re-tighten the upper banjo bolt then its impossible to push bleed plunger in at all. Seems like something wrong internal to the master. Thinking next I remove the hand lever again and the clip to pull out the plunger to see whats wrong in there. There was a bunch of crud in the resoviour - maybe some got into a valve. Other ideas ? I tried a hand vacuum on the end of the bleeder and that only sucks fluid out - does nothing to restore brake. - Yes, im guilty of allowing the KTM to gather dust in the garage for years. Next is carb flush, tank flush. Learned to NEVER take a tank to a commercial spray off car wash - the pressure inside the tank split up open my honda XR tank.
Yes, if fluid can not pass up in to the master something is wrong. When the mater piston is fully released fluid should be able to pass from the slave to the master. Either the piston is not fully released, or the master is clogged up with debris.
Hi Tokyo, but I can't find the syringe anywhere! What do you recommend, otherwise great video.
Manuel Montiel - An automotive parts store should have a suitable syringe.
One other option would be a syringe made for mountain bike brake bleeding. They appear to be well made and many of them have secure hose fittings. However, the capacity is quite small (usually 20ml) and the hose ID may be too small.
Tokyo Offroad Thank You 👍
Tip top, pro job