I noticed that the manual for my 06 Nomad stated around 30 psi as well. But that number changes according to the tire on your bike. The ones on my bike are rated for about 42 psi. So, go by what your tire states, and not the manual. It is after all almost 20 years old and not up to date with modern tires.
I personally go by how it feels. If the ride feels to sloppy and spongy, increase the psi, if the ride is to hard and ridged, decrease it. Once you get a propper feeling ride then check your psi and use it as your base setting.
I truely don't know know if these shocks would fit on a 1500. I would want to say thay would, but I really don't know. And the shock I have are standard, oem, stock shocks. You should be able to get them at any Kawasaki dealer or bike shop. They can even tell you other brands, makes, and models that would fit your bike.
They set the preload. So if you want a softer ride go with the 1 or 2, but if need a stiffer suspension because of being overweight like me or hauling a lot of gear, then go with the 3 or 4.
If you are going to make a tutorial video. At least do the research and get it right. You have to put a jack under the bike and take the weight off the shocks before filling with air or bladder damage can happen
I'm going to call BS on that comment. Because, what do you do if you're out on a trip and you somehow loss air in your shocks? You don't have a jack. What are you going to do? Your going to pull into the nearest station, or your going to pull out your portable compressor and try to inflate it. But, I'll tell you what; If you can find me the official, 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Classic, rear shock air inflation procedure, link it in a reply. Because my service manual does not have the "how-to" add air to the rear shocks. It has checking for oil leaks, preload adjustments, and removal of, but that's it. I don't want to see something from another manufacturer brand or bike model, because they are all different. I don't want the old, "well , that's just the way it's done." I want written, documented proof, that's that's the way it's done.
And if you lose air while out whats the point putting more in it will only leak out. The pressure should be set to max load and if you off load weight reduce the psi accordingly. As i posted do your research before telling others how to do it wrong . There is a reason they tell you to do it this way. But if you feel you know better than the factory go for it
@@ChefHikerBiker Well when you blow the air bags you will know why. Maybe you should stick to cooking. Like I said if your going to make a tutorial video do it Right
I got my compressor from my parents. I don't know where they got it. As for the rusty water; a compressor can produce water vapor. So, if the air compressor you've been using doesn't have a water reservoir on it, that water vapor will go into what ever you are inflating.
For me, the problem with swapping them around would be that my saddlebags will be in the way. I have considered changing them out though. Let me know what brand you go with, if you go that route.
7 วันที่ผ่านมา
A regular air compresser is wrong to use. A bicycle or a pump made especially for this kind of thing. A regular compressor will destroy your shocks. DO NOT DO THAT
If you use a bicycle pump with an end that clamps onto the valve, you will not be able to remove it fast enough before all the air leaks out. I have used a special air pump designed to prohibit leaking from the valve, but the inflation still leaks out and goes flat. A compressor set to 35-40 psi, a burst of a half second or so does the job.
6 วันที่ผ่านมา
@ChefHikerBiker lol. Ok chef.....they make special pumps, and all shock manufacturers say...not recommended to use compressor.. but you cook your way.
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I use a low pressure progressive pump with a gage. Works beautifully, also fits nicely in my saddle bag.
Nice!
Thanks for showing the rear shock filll up. I couldnt get it done!!
Why couldn't you fill the rear shock? Did you not have the right air quick release valve or couldn't get the technique down or what?
That or the bladder could be blown 😅
@@ChefHikerBiker i didnt have The quick release valve at hand
Yeah, that makes the job much easier. By the time you get a locking nozzle off, the air escapes.
Darkside rear tire? How do you like it? When my Nomad 1600 rear wears out i may do that....
I like it. Don't think I'll go back to a cycle tire
Thank you for this
Thank you for watching and liking my videos.
Hi man ,you can create video on Self-Diagnosis it was helpful for lovers vn1600.
Thank you. Glad you like my videos👍
Awesome thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching, liking, and commenting. 👍
I noticed that the manual for my 06 Nomad stated around 30 psi as well. But that number changes according to the tire on your bike. The ones on my bike are rated for about 42 psi. So, go by what your tire states, and not the manual. It is after all almost 20 years old and not up to date with modern tires.
I personally go by how it feels. If the ride feels to sloppy and spongy, increase the psi, if the ride is to hard and ridged, decrease it.
Once you get a propper feeling ride then check your psi and use it as your base setting.
i have a 2006 kawaski vulcan 1500 classic, would does shocks fit my bike and if so , what type and were to get them
I truely don't know know if these shocks would fit on a 1500. I would want to say thay would, but I really don't know. And the shock I have are standard, oem, stock shocks. You should be able to get them at any Kawasaki dealer or bike shop. They can even tell you other brands, makes, and models that would fit your bike.
Should be standard on your bike.
I have a 08 Vulcan 1500 classic so about 30 psi for each rear shock?
You can start there, and then increase or decreases the pressure to your liking.
What are the dials on top of the shock below the mounting bolt for?
They set the preload. So if you want a softer ride go with the 1 or 2, but if need a stiffer suspension because of being overweight like me or hauling a lot of gear, then go with the 3 or 4.
@@ChefHikerBiker I'm a big fella. Carry a passenger also so they are set at 4. Thank you
Yep, sounds like we're in the same boat. Although, I don't have the passenger. I'm a big guy too, 6'6" 275lbs and I run my suspension at a 4 also.
If you are going to make a tutorial video. At least do the research and get it right. You have to put a jack under the bike and take the weight off the shocks before filling with air or bladder damage can happen
I'm going to call BS on that comment. Because, what do you do if you're out on a trip and you somehow loss air in your shocks? You don't have a jack. What are you going to do? Your going to pull into the nearest station, or your going to pull out your portable compressor and try to inflate it.
But, I'll tell you what; If you can find me the official, 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Classic, rear shock air inflation procedure, link it in a reply. Because my service manual does not have the "how-to" add air to the rear shocks. It has checking for oil leaks, preload adjustments, and removal of, but that's it.
I don't want to see something from another manufacturer brand or bike model, because they are all different. I don't want the old, "well , that's just the way it's done." I want written, documented proof, that's that's the way it's done.
@@ChefHikerBiker Its in the owners manual under maintenance and adjustment on page 124
And if you lose air while out whats the point putting more in it will only leak out. The pressure should be set to max load and if you off load weight reduce the psi accordingly. As i posted do your research
before telling others how to do it wrong . There is a reason they tell you to do it this way. But if you feel you know better than the factory go for it
Good on ya. But in real world applications, I still wont do it.
@@ChefHikerBiker Well when you blow the air bags you will know why. Maybe you should stick to cooking. Like I said if your going to make a tutorial video do it Right
hey bud where did you get your air composer ?
Im getting rusty water and air out of my shocks any ideas ?
I got my compressor from my parents. I don't know where they got it. As for the rusty water; a compressor can produce water vapor. So, if the air compressor you've been using doesn't have a water reservoir on it, that water vapor will go into what ever you are inflating.
Worst design ever, want to swap mine around to point valve backwards or just replace them all together
For me, the problem with swapping them around would be that my saddlebags will be in the way. I have considered changing them out though. Let me know what brand you go with, if you go that route.
A regular air compresser is wrong to use. A bicycle or a pump made especially for this kind of thing. A regular compressor will destroy your shocks. DO NOT DO THAT
If you use a bicycle pump with an end that clamps onto the valve, you will not be able to remove it fast enough before all the air leaks out. I have used a special air pump designed to prohibit leaking from the valve, but the inflation still leaks out and goes flat.
A compressor set to 35-40 psi, a burst of a half second or so does the job.
@ChefHikerBiker lol. Ok chef.....they make special pumps, and all shock manufacturers say...not recommended to use compressor.. but you cook your way.