ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- (Repair Instructions below) This is how you replace the engine & transmission mounts on your 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997 Toyota Camry with the 2.2l Inline 4. If your engine is shaking / vibrating / moving excessively this video is for you. If you bought an updated repair kit, you will most likely also need an additional bolt: M12x1.25x45mm
Instagram: / eyvo_auto
EYVO Auto: / eyvoauto
Nate’s Trucks: / @natestrucks2824
Camry Motor Mount Replacement:
• Remove the upper torque strut mount. 14mm
• Start with the front motor mount.
◦ Jack up the engine using wood under the oil pan to relieve pressure on the mount
◦ 10 mm remove the bottom cover under the car.
◦ Remove the bolts under the motor mount
◦ Use an impact to remove the two side mount bolts
◦ Remove the top mount bolt - this one will be hard. 17mm
◦ Jack up the motor some more to release the mount. Remove it.
◦ Put the new mount in and tighten the bottom bolts that hold the mount in place.
◦ Loosely install all other bolts. These will not be tightened until all motor mounts are replaced.
• Rear motor mount is difficult to get to. Remove the passenger side tire and covers using a 10mm socket. Remove both bolt hole covers under the car sub frame.
◦ Remove the motor mount bolts starting at the top. 17mm socket this one will be difficult a regular wrench works best.
◦ 14mm deep socket & 3” extension and impact to remove the bottom.
◦ Lift the rear of the motor to remove the rear mount.
◦ Make sure the new mount has a stud on it. If not, you will need to find an M12x1.25x45mm bolt to use as the upper mount bolt.
◦ Put the new mount in place and tighten the lower mount bolts. Leave the top loose for now. It may take some wiggling to get it in place.
• Remove the driver’s side wheel and well cover. Remove both bolt hole covers on the sub frame to access the trans mount bolts. Place a jack with wood on it under the transmission.
◦ Remove both lower bolts and lift the transmission. Remove the upper bolts. Remove the mount.
◦ Compare the old mount to the new and adjust as needed.
◦ Reinstall the trans mount tightening all the bolts. Replace covers and wheel.
• Now you may tighten all of the other engine mounts and replace covers and the passenger side wheel.
• Replace the torque strut mount.
• Start the car and notice the difference.
I’m a professional mechanic, but I still watch videos like this when replacing parts I haven’t before to get an idea of the scope. This video was very helpful!
I had a lot of trouble with the top nut on the rear motor mount, but I was able to get a socket on it and with a combination of a wobble adapter and 3 extensions I was able to get a breaker bar on it through the gap in the intake manifold
Thanks so much for watching and for the comment! That rear motor mount is a bear! Both to break loose and then get out. So grateful the updated mount requires a bolt and doesn't have a stud.
My mom just got quoted $800 to do this job at a shop.. parts are around $100 from A1Auto, so guess imma spend my Saturday cursing and looking at this video multiple times throughout the day
Ooof, that sounds about right. Not a super hard repair, just very time consuming. Thanks for watching! How did it go?
My mom called my uncle who owns a shop in long Beach(like an hour from us) and he's gonna have his guys do it for $250. So it's probably better off that way, i don't wanna make it a death trap lol
I have the 1a auto mounts on my 94 wagon and they're junk. They vibrate extremely hard. Apparently it's a thing with these cars that all of the cheap aftermarket mounts don't last and vibrate bad. I bought all new oem ones from my local Toyota dealership. Very pricy but hoping it fixes the problem.
@@Alex88302 How did it go? Worth the $600+?
OMG. Thank you for this video. But my nephew and I just put in 3 engine mounts - the top one yesterday, and the front and rear one today. It took us maybe 5 hours! The difficulty was first getting the rear mount out. No matter how high we lifted the engine, the built-in studs, lower and upper, prevented us from removing it. We only were successful when we removed the upper engine mount, and put 3 blocks of stacked wood under our jack. The new rear mount we bought had a removable stud on the top, so we didn't have to find a bolt. When we finally coaxed the rear mount into position, then threaded in the supplied stud into the top, then the nut on that. THAT was the hardest nut to remove and reinstall. No room for a ratchet, and we had to remove the pass. side tire, and use a straight combination wrench. So glad that's done. Our plastic panel underneath also gave us trouble - 2 bolts were seized, and 1 broke off from a prior repair. We ended up just taking all the bolts out, except a seized one, and bending the plastic panel out of the way. Then reinstalling all the good bolts we had, and a plastic push pin for one hole. Edit: When we raised the motor up as high as it would go, the lower radiator hose came off, spilling all the antifreeze onto the driveway and street. That took 3 partial rolls of paper towels to soak up, to prevent the poisoning of animals. - It's red, long life antifreeze - not sure if that tastes sweet like the green does.
I love these videos you are the best. My dad has a Toyota Camry wagon 1993 and these videos help a lot
Thanks! Glad to help out. Honestly a great car to own
God bless bro! I’m going to save myself a lot of money doing this myself.
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching! Make sure to use good oe quality mounts - wish I had bought better ones when I did this as there was still a little vibration
best video by far for the engine mounts
Stellar video and thank you for sharing. I have a 95 Camry LE and have replaced three out of four mounts so far. i saved the best for last the rear mount. I think i am gonna wait until i replace radiator so i can roll around on the ground all in one day and loosen other mounts back up prior to removing rear mount . I wanted to ask you or anyone who reads this if the stud can be removed from the top of the old rear mount after nut is removed so you do not have to jack engine up so much to remove the mount. my thought is get a little PB blast off on top of stud first to aid in removing the nut. then raise motor enough to get channel lock on stud and try and turn the stud loose from top of mount. then lower motor back down and turn the threaded stud the rest of the way out. if it works all is good but if not i will raise motor enough to remove the mount. sure glad i do not have to remove the CV axle to make enough room to get the mount out and new one back in assuming you did not either. the mount i got came with new threaded stud and also have the bolt also. Thanks again for sharing.
Thanks for watching! For some reason I'm remembering the stud on the rear mount is a solid piece and I'm not sure it could be turned out. Pause video at 5:46 for a better look at that mount. No removal of the cv axle necessary! Fairly easy job, just take it slow and follow the instructions included in the video description. Most frustrating part is getting that old rear mount, with the stud, out.
Very well explained. What problems or symptoms did you have that made you replace the motor mounts?
Great Job! Hope your channel is doing well !! You are a good teacher! I know prices vary, but even looking many places I never found a mount kit for even 2 x the $40 you mentioned.
Thanks so much! Gearing up to get back to making videos... Look on rockauto.com SKP kit for $47 currently
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1995,camry,2.2l+l4,1273463,engine,motor+mount+kit,11844
Man. Such a great tutorial that I am gonna buy a 1995 Camry to go and do this ;)
Haha, Thanks my dude!
U should, they are great cars
Great video Brother thanks for sharing i'm going to do on my 97 Camry looks like same set up.
Thanks for watching! Highly recommend using OE Toyota quality mounts! I didn't and they're still a little shaky
Keep doing videos on this Camry, I have the same one and need help!!!
Thanks man! Sure are good cars. What's going on with your Camry?
Wow!! Meticulous in detail, with helpful tips and reminders to boot. I have a 99 Camry with 379K and need to replace the 4 engine mounts and my AC compressor. Also did that rear engine mount come with the needed top bolt or, if you did you purchase that separately, what size did you get.
Thanks for watching! I purchased that top bolt separately for the rear engine mount. I'm not certain of the size, but I know it is the same as the top bolt on the front engine mount - I took that one into the hardware store and found something that matched. Not sure why they don't include a new bolt with the new mount. Unfortunately I also had to replace the A/C compressor in my car... hopefully everything is the same or similar for your 99, not hard to do.
A/C Compressor: th-cam.com/video/Xl8OzI7XqvA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EYVOAuto
A/C Recharge: th-cam.com/video/4rGcko7I5jY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EYVOAuto
Just picked this car up. Fairly easy to work on. VSV was awful
Nice! You won't be disappointed with it and how expensive gas is right now! We averaged 28-32mpg the 11,000miles we owned ours. Power-steering pump is another part that is terrible to replace... But most things are pretty easy fix on these, if they do break!
Thanks for vid... Replaced all 4 mounts , dog bone oem, other 3 aftermarket. Car vibrate a little , place car in park & vibration stops. Which one of the 3 aftermarket mounts could be causing vibration??? I think its bc its not as good as the OEM parts.
Thanks for watching! I used aftermarket mounts as well. While they significantly reduced the vibration the car still had one just as you described. I also attribute it to using aftermarket parts over oe. If it isn't too bad I wouldn't worry about it too much honestly.
@@EYVOAuto Ok, i won't. Thanks.
Nice i just wanted too know what size Socket wrench too use the Transmission mount
Thanks for watching! I believe the lower two bolts are 14mm and the upper four... I'm not 100%, but I think they're the same size
0:38 how do you take out glove box
2097 toyota camry tensioner how to replace
Thanks for watching! Sadly we passed the car off to our uncle! :'(
Lifting from under oil pan is no no
Always better if it can be avoided, but if done properly it won't damage a thing on a small engine like this
The oil pan is durable enough to support the weight of the engine..just always make sure you use a wooden block.
Not bad. Too much talking. Also, Could have done a better job on camera work, especially the back one. But you pass… C+
Awesome thanks for the pointers! Will keep this in mind as I begin making videos again
@@EYVOAutoi enjoyed the thorough explanation