Smart man choosing that truck restoring one of these is cheaper than buying a new truck and they are way more reliable and last longer. I did the same thing I got a 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 ext cab from an elderly man that garaged it and I was lucky it was in fantastic shape. I gave $6500 for it and it has 174k miles on the 4.8l engine. I owned a 2004 Chevy Silverado LT before and put 220k miles on it before I sold it. It never was put in the shop for anything but service. It had the 5.3l, but it is really hard to feel a big difference in the engines. The 5.3l pulled better of course, but the 4.8l feels smoother on acceleration to me. Mine does have a leak I need to get fixed it is on the agenda. I had to replace the blend door actuator behind the air bag which was a huge pain, but well worth the money. I researched a lot on older trucks to see what my best options were for the price and it was the 1999-2004 GMC/Silverados #1 followed by the 1997-2003 F-150's specifically the 4.6l engines. The F-150 trucks are cheaper so they are a great choice for those looking to save money. I hear they are a lot harder to work on though so I chose another GM. I would not touch a modern truck right now. Too expensive and reliability and longivity is just not there anymore. I miss the Bose my 2004 had though. I just replaced the 6-1/2" door speakers and rear 4x6" with Pioneer speakers. Looking for the new head unit and 4 channel amp and going to add an 8-10" sub and amp.
Hell yeah that’s exactly why me and my wife drive one, new trucks are not even make it threw the warranty with having to be in the shop, plus that payment I’m good, make sure you check out my sub install videos I finished it off with two JL W3’s in a stealth box
You can always use rice to pour into an odd shaped enclosure to determine the volume. Then pour it out into a known container size. I feel informed now :)
you can always do it with a plastic bag filled with water. Measure the weight of the water and it's super easy to convert that into volume. More accurate than rice and much cheaper.
I have gotten a 6.5 in EVL skar audio sub and had the same issue of it not fitting. I watched your video part way through. Saw you had to trim and I almost gave up on that and sent the speaker back because I didn’t want to bore a hold in the box. I finished this video and now I realized how easily I could just jb weld the hood I make. Thank you for this video.
Well, for starters, great video my man! I've had a 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche since 2006 and for a few years now the in dash sub has been making a rattling noise, but only at certain frequencies. For years now I've been looking for someone who has done this exact thing, I've search all over, even looking at a Tang Bang from Parts Express. You nailed it! Hoping you made a video about recovering your seats too. I was just talking to some of my guys about do I get rid of my ride or keep it and do some work. Well sir! I think you just gave me the inspiration I was needing. Times are a little tough right now for everyone and we need more people in this world like you! Thanks again.
Appreciate the kind words my wife has a 03 Yukon I’ll make a video when I do hers it actually wasn’t to bad to do your self my truck is still holding up great
@CDP135Z EBay I found the gm part number for the factory foam you can get it for around a 100 I just did the bottom normally what wears out then eBay has cover kits in real leather I got both top and bottom from a seller with good reviews then if you go to seat shop I think is the name they have really good videos on braking down the seats pretty easy actually seat shop has really nice cover but they are more money seen controversial reviews on there foam so I went with factory to be safe it’s the best for comfort it will even tell you how to transfer heated seats over if the pad isn’t burnt out probably will do there covers for my wife they have factory like quality but again they are more expensive normally only the driver seat fails but I had to do both my front all in all I think I only had 600 in material a lot cheaper then a upholstery shop but a lot of that work is so so now hope this helps you out
I'm glad I came across this vid. I just bought a 2004 Yukon Denali with 129,800 miles and everything is still factory after two owners. I've got alot to do on restoration. LOL
Thanks for making this video! The Bose sub in my Tahoe has always been something I’ve been thinking of replacing without having to resort to aftermarket enclosures that delete the air vent. Cool to see that it can be done pretty easily - thanks for showing us the way!
I appreciate the feedback! Check out the comments someone recommended a company that sells 6.5 in subs that would make this a lot easier sense it would be the same size sub not as much modifications, might try it out and make a video on it if my wife’s Bose sub ever goes out.
Nicely done so glad you made this video I've been trying to find some info for my sub in my tahoe and couldn't find non till I came across your video thanks a bunch
This is pretty great! I've spent a couple hours searching "2003 Yukon subwoofer replacement" and zero. This includes one guy who posted like 7 videos on replacing all the Bose stereo components in his suburban, except of course the subwoofer was left original. Saw your video finally listed on the side and it is just what I was looking for. A little more clarity on color coding, which are left/right positive and negative would be helpful so we can get polarities right.
Appreciate the feed back, when you remove the speaker the polarity’s are marked on the speaker positive and negative just take a picture and take note before cutting/disconnecting
Ive been searching for a while on a how to video for this, found this video. Im 15 and got an 03 yukon xl with the bose, im planning on Ds18 door speakers as well as the 6.5 inch sub, im confident from watching this, thanks!
@@QS_TIPS My first priority is a new torque converter rn, it sputters really bad at 4000 rpm so Its drivable but it takes forever to get to speed lol, love your trucks man
@Tuxedo5.3-d9e hell yeah if you get a trans jack from harbor freight makes it pretty easy I just have the cheap scissor lift, need a super long extension too and once your drop the crossmember and let the engine all the way down the bell housing bolts are pretty easy then
@@QS_TIPS Yeah, im gonna have my dad help me, he replaced the trans on our old 99 chevy, wish I could find that truck again. I also need a new guage cluster mine started smoking so i just hope I have gas for rn lol
Replaced the cluster and the one in my wife’s truck you can get them rebuilt or just order one rebuilt and add the transmission temp on them to it’s not to bad off eBay got mine in white looks sick
22:02 Great video, editing, two thumbs up. And yes i concur with previous comment high five to your old lady and friend hanging out at 420. Currently looking to do upgrades on 04 Silverado Bose system. This was spot on info. Subcribed tonight
Glad to help, I figured it out when they first came out, always wanted to mess with it, was always impressed with the factory bass at the time compared to base radios
Truck build turned out great and so did the sub. I've always liked GM stock BOSE for what it is. I have BOSE in my 2006 GMC yukon and it sounded great. I did the Y91 Lux BOSE upgrade along with the GM TNR 800 navigation radio. It sounds noticeably stronger. I've also Dynamatted my doors and have Infinity speakers in the rear doors.
That’s awesome! I was looking into that amp upgrade as well to possibly do before I completed this but I have no complaints right now with my high sound output, just think my 2 12’s are not performing where I want them so I been planning on upgrading to something stronger, I have a pole on my community tab talking more about it.🤘🏻
Awesome instal man. I was looking for a video just like this for my Bose upgrade. The only thing is that when you measured impedance you only accounted for one voice coil and it looked like the Bose had 2. Depending on how it was wired (most likely at 4ohms) it could be 4 or 1 ohms. The interior speakers on mine were at 4 ohms for the rear and 2 ohms front door plus 2 ohms on the tweeter, wired together to total out at 4 ohms per channel. Great video you definitely inspired me to make a similar upgrade soon!
All the speakers iv worked with advertise the voice cool impedance per coil so if it’s a dual 4 ohm each coil will read 4 ohms the bose sub was a dual 2 ohm
Great video, thanks for sharing! I just got an 05 GMC 2500hd with Bose and upgrading the sound system now. The next time you have the center console out, consider filling the factory box with Poly-fil stuffing. I'm not sure how it works but if the box is too small the Poly-fil stuffing will trick you speaker into thinking it has more room.
I found that Jl Makes A Stealth Box 10 for that space in the Yukon might go that route if I pull it again or do it my wife’s truck, make sure to check out the newest video I put in a stealth box in the back sounds great,congrats on the truck man !
Wow, you are really bringing the truck up. The console is surprising, didn't realize that was needed. I need to replace the dash in mine, so you inspired me
I love my Bose Speakers. I was able to get NOS stock replacements but my back speakers went and I am putting some JBLs in place of them now. I have had a custom box with 12's from 10 or so years now and it was a great compliment to the system. I think just upgrading them head unit is a HUGE improvement on this system. Nice job on yours
I'm in the same boat as you with my 2015 Colorado. The dang rear door speakers along with the stock head unit have very little sound at all. The front speakers are good. It is just a WT so it doesn't have Bose, but from what I have heard; the factory head units even the Bose really equalize everything out so that the rears are "accompaniment" and not loud or outgoing. I've heard changing the head unit to an aftermarket unit will make them louder. But most head units only have 120W for the entire system. Then adding to my dilemma is the fact that the 2015 and up Colorado has electric steering assist that uses up to 60 amps from the electrical system. So tampering with the system with adding a 2 ohm or 1 ohm amp for subs seems so impractical or just asking for future troubles; or like some dramatizations put it "Even death"... I guess it just depends upon how badly it feels to lose power steering and or when it decides to not show up for work... Awesome truck man, hard work always pays off...
I’d get a good head unit think that will help you out a lot the Kenwood I’m running pushes 50watt rms per channel and iv had good results with it in my last truck that was none bose, find it to be to powerful for the factory amplifier because it wants to see a low power signal preferably so I’m counting on the pac unit to convert the signal so I’m sure I loose some sound quality there but I love my head unit and it still sounds amazing
I didn’t see one when I purchased this one or I definitely would of not a large selection at this speaker size I even considered a mid speaker for it but the plan was if it didn’t work out just un pin the factory amp for the sub and add a mini amp for it
I think the Bose sub does a pretty decent job for what it is in my next gen Suburban. I am just going to add a 10" or 12" with a small amp between the captain chairs with a sub level control up front. I ordered a new console lid to match the front console to hide it. Thanks for the video.
I agree if they are still working for you, all of the paper materials on my speakers where falling apart and and causing them to sound bad I even picked up some replacement door speakers from the junk yard that sounded blown as well so I just decided to replace everything, I did install 2 12’s as well thing sounds really good now has a good balance when it’s low with the small sub and then when you want it loud the big subs sound great up loud, that videos on my Chanel if you want to check it out, good luck with the console box sounds like a cool idea definitely will be A unique setup
One question he lost me at the wiring the 4 ohm to 2 ohm and how does it connect to the factory harness. My factory counsel wiring pig tail has 4 wires to the subwoofer itself (red and green and a set of stripped red and green) Any help would be great
So I got the polarity off the back of the speaker it’s stamped positive and negative so before you disconnect it take a picture so you remember the colors/wires I then combined the two positives together and two negatives together and wire the speaker in parallel In accordance with the diagram I posted in the video witch essentially makes the resistance of the speaker two ohms not to get to technical you can make it easy and just google how to wire a dual 4 ohm speaker to two ohm resistance there is a lot of diagrams for reference to not make it over complicated and its just plug and play at that point wire the two positives as one and the two negatives as one and wire them into the diagram I used 10 gauge sub wire to wire up the sub side hope this helps
Love the video. I have a bose in my truck and I want more bass. I added a bazooka tube. It was better, but I still want more bass. Great video bro. That upgrade isnt expensive, just time
All I Have Is The Video That’s Why I Put The Diagram But The Speaker Is Marked Positive and Negative For The Factory sub so just take note of that before you remove them from the sub wiring
@@QS_TIPS I have a 07 Tahoe with the Bose system. And was wanting to up grade the speakers. Some pl say you cant do it, bla bla bla. Crutchfield has limited speakers to up grade. Mainly for the doors. But I want to do the console sub.
If you actually call crutch field they will recommend the speakers I installed in the description, I opted for the ones with the tweeters for a louder sound but if you want a just a crisper sound they make the speaker without the tweeter as well, infinity is the only speakers I know of that will work due to the 2ohm rating witch is the same “really close to Bose” really simple install as well I think the baffling helped out a ton as well !
Yes only Sub I Found Small Enough To Work and be able to run at 2 ohm, if you did more of a mid range speaker sure that would work as well but not sure if the bass performance would be the same, kickers not popular with everyone but iv had nothing but good results with them one of my favorite cheaper speakers.
Man i have been searching for a video about this for a few months now thanks man im installing a better amp and sub in the console but wasnt sure how to go about replacing the sub this was great i know which direction im goin
I'm wiring up a 4 channel 1000w amp gonna use the front channels for my door speakers and gonna bridge the back channels for the sub..the sub is skar evl 65 d4 and the door speakers I went with Blaupunkt 6.5's 4 way speakers they should sound pretty crisp then I'm gonna run a mono sub to a skar 10 in a bandpass just in case want to rattle some windows at the stop light 😂
How did the wiring work as far as installing the subwoofer and have you done anything with the doors? I’m currently in the process of my dad replacing mine as well. I have two 6 1/2 mid range speakers and two 3 1/2 inch tweeters for that front tiller that I’m currently trying to figure out proper configuration with the intimated into the factory Bose system. I installed a aftermarket head unit and had quite the time with the steering wheel controls and retaining RAC and whatever other bells and whistles, I kept the factory amp. I did not bypass it, but I did install aftermarket subwoofer and tomato amp in the back. I am currently looking for a four channel and deciding on the configuration for speakers I’ve thought quite a bit about what you’re doing here and I’m wondering how simple it was to install when it came to wiring. Were you able to just use the existing connections or had to run wire to an amp without issue?
I just used the same factory wiring and plug and added a separate piece of speaker wire to wire the sub for 2 ohm resistance diagram in vid, for the doors I’m running infinity highs that are rated at 2 ohms all links are in the description
Hey brother Quinton was going to ask you how did you like that kilmat sound deadner I'm looking into doing my truck but haven't decided which to use that works the best I'm leaning towards second skin but Ive seen noico and kilmat as well nice build too truck looks great
I have no complaints had it on for over a year now had to take some down to fix a window regulator but actually wasn’t too bad to still get into the door and I just put new matting on after, keeps the truck quite and I have no rattles
Still going strong haven’t had any issue compliments the system down low with the volume low and the bigger speakers take over up top have a vid on the 10’s I installed to replace the 12’s
Having trouble with mine I added a Memphis prx624 in same spot it has selectable 2 or 4 ohm wired now at 4. I currently have a loc and amp with a 12. loc is wired in at those wires 12 bumps but the 6 seems untuned and hasn’t sounded right since installed Even without amp and loc do I need a the 4 wire sub I want to pull this huge 12 out too. have a cleaner look. stock hu
All depends on the amp output for that speaker if is a multichannel the smaller outputs are not a lot only meant for door speakers, the factory amp power would perform best at 2 ohms, that’s assuming the speaker condition and box seal is good
Iv been waiting sense they started putting them in trucks lol just finally said f it, it’s been 20 years and haven’t found one yet so I knew it was gonna be a solid first video for the channel
Great vid brother,appreciate the detailed insight. So for clarification the speaker is 2ohm correct?,but is the speaker size a 6.5 or 6-3/4? Im planning on pulling console as well for same purpose. But wanna get the right size that will be direct fit,minus the filing. Wil a 6" suffice or should i go with 6.5 . Appreciate u man.
1.1 ohm you for got the other coil. i just replace my rear speakers with some 6x4 skars. Found the brand by accident, friend had blow twitter and wanted cheap. google did not steer me wrong.(THIS TIME)
Do you remember how much more space you had behind the kicker before it hit something? I am trying to spec a 6.5a" woofer and am wondering if I can get a taller sub than the kicker you have. Is there anything Infront of the sub blocking excursion? I could always run a spacer if not.
Any possibility you could showm me how you have that worked fully?? Did you use all 4 wires from Bose amp?? I have a 6.5 dvc Skar to fit(with little bit of shaving 😅)...
I used all 4 wires yes the polarity is marked on the bose speaker so just not that then I used the wire diagram I provided on screen and some jumper speaker wire to do the rest
You win best comment lol! Ever sense these trucks came out iv always been curious and wanted to mess with these Bose systems and every time I’d look for info there would be little to find, that’s why I knew this would be a good foundation to start my channel because I can’t be the only one with this curiosity.
My speakers went out last night and had to dig for videos to see who makes more sense and liked, had to be you ! Thanks for sharing it man you the best
@QS_TIPS hell anything would be better than those made out of paper shizzz called door speakers. I really wish there was a cheaper way to tie in aftermarket android head unit without needing the $100 data can bus box for steering wheel buttons and xm/On-star. Not like I could ever hookup the On-star being 1990s technology. Barely able to send data. But definitely can't now. WTF 2G TECH
Yeah I wasn’t impressed with this pac module had problems with one and if you go to the bad reviews it’s not to hot but there is only two company’s with a module on the market so hands are tied I was doing research on how to by-bass all the bs and just have steering wheel controls but just called it good after I tried a new module didn’t have any issue with that one but you loose the low frequencies for the Bose amp if you got that route
I watched the video and read a couple dozen comments. But i never really heard you say how it actually sounded? If it was worth the time and money ive heard many say. Its like gutting a dog. Id think it would add some mid bass. But is it really worth it? I recently totaled my 2003 2500hd crew cab without the bose system. I replaced the factory speackers in my hd. And head unite powered the door speakers with a old school ppi 4 channel and powered my JL with a old school audiobann amplifier. I wasnt impressed. I totally the hd Crew cab and now have a 2004 silverado crew cab with the bose system. Im going to buy the extra plug kit so i can still control the stereo from steering wheel. Whats the verdicts or oppion . If i install the newer pioneer with rear camera. I use the bose amplifier for the replacement eclipse in doors and a aftermarket amplier for the to 10s?. Replace console sub? Or is it even worth it? Im lazy as of right now to see what power the bose is per channel? Anyone care to share your opinion. I what a good SQ system. Im 53 and ive always loved my clean install and clear crispy highs and mids with deep clean bass. Any one?
I Enjoyed the project definelty think if it’s your only source of base I’d run a aftermarket amp if your really trying to push it, but it works really good for me down low it does start to base cut just like the factory sun does up top but I run 2 10’s and it complements each other quite nicely JL makes a stealth box for under the center console to if you want to go that route I think it’s made for the Yukon/Tahoe might do it to my wife’s car.
Hello friend can you please help me out. I installed jbls on the front door and hooked up a kenwood head unit with crux harness. Did that with on my Escalade 2003. Boy does it sound shit all of a sudden. Bose was sounding so good. Head unit and steering control works jsut great but the amplifier seems likes it’s not working at all. Sub woofer doesn’t kick in at all. What could I be doing wrong ?
Jbl only makes 4 ohm resistance speakers I believe for highs, the Bose amp is set up for 2 ohms so probably doesn’t even have enough juice to move that 4 ohm speaker work plus Jbl takes a lot of power to run its made for a bigger amp you need lower resistance lower power speakers for the Bose amp
Someone cut my factory sub wires in the console and my rear door speakers rattle and make noise. They aren’t blown. Do you think it’s because they needed the sub?
If the speakers are rattling the glue probably came loose where the cone attaches to the speaker material that’s what I found was wrong with this factory sub I added it at the vary end of the video if you need a visual 5star audio has a good video that covers all the factory amp wiring for these trucks if you want to try fix the sub wiring
Ok so i have a question would it help to to fill the cavity with some tupe of fill to get a better sound? I know like my subwoofer for pa it was full of insulation in cavity. I have a 2020.gmc 2500hd with Bose system and I am not impressed with sound at all . I may have to do something similar. Thanks for the video
How much power does the Bose amp produce? And was it a very noticeable difference from the Bose sun to the kicker? It’s my wife’s suv and I just want a little more bump in it. She doesn’t care
Not sure of the power rating of the amp would love to see one tested, but it hit a little harder then stock but nothing crazy it would ruffle the mirror a little bit again it’s only a 6.75 in sub, I’m sure with a bigger amp it would hit pretty hard for what it is, I’d check out JL Stealth box for the Tahoe/yukon if you want a major change it goes under the console as well, but all in all I like this project and it fixed my messed up factory sub problem, If I have time to play with it more I’d love to see what more amps would do to it but I have the stealth box back behind the seat now so they both complement each other well so I have no complaints with the current setup have a video on that as well if you want to check it out
I loved it with the upgraded door speakers it sounded way better,the factory amp does cut power when you have it all the way up tho but that worked out perfect for my set up when the volume is low the little sub makes it sound great and then when I want to push it the 2 12’s take over
@@QS_TIPS I’m thinking about upgrading in my 2018 pickup. Thinking about the oe sub but put on its own amp. Or doing away with it and just doing all new door speakers and then 4-8” subs under the back seat
When I was doing research there was guys re amping the stock sub to remove the power cut and they had really good results to! If your truck is that new I would send the stock sub, the older trucks needs replacements just due to the age of the speakers they start failing
@@ccooper04 yeah thats just the factory making sure people dont blow all the speakers out, but to fix it you have to add your own amp witch can be quit the challenge to accomplish cleanly i think the best method i found was adding your own plug to the output harness so you dont chop the factory stuff up and wire the new amplifier straight to that, only output not on that plug is the sub but it wouldnt be hard to run wires straight to the sub, they have cool amps now that have highs lows mids and tweets able to be tunned individually with a sub channel as well so that way you dont burn the tweeters up, you can do it with a dsp to but iv never ventured that far into tunning but you have to have some nice teck to tune that or take it to shop to do it, but it can be done for sure i was contemplating doing it just to see how far i could take the kicker 6.75 but the way it turned out with the 12's cant beat it they complement each other nicely with the bass cut is right about the time my 12's start kicking in.
You should have went to Parts express and bought a Tang band or Dayton Audio 6in sub to replace that, that kicker isn't gonna have enough power to make it hit, but a 6 inch Tang Band is only like 100 watts and they pack a good punch.
Just looked, I agree think that would of worked better, never knew they had smaller subs then what I installed and it would of been the same diameter, if I ever have a round 2 I’ll defiantly try these for sure my wife has the bose too so maybe when hers gives out we can compare the two 🤘🏻
No clue iv heard there is a video out there, someone did a bench test on one but a lot of the info is on the deluxe amp only found in like Denali’s Escalades never did find the video
@@QS_TIPS What I'm saying is, if that factory sub had two coils and each are 2 ohm, then they have to be wired together in either parallel or series. So the amplifier is either seeing a 1 ohm or 4 ohm mono load. When you replace it with a dual 4 ohm and wire it as a 2 ohm mono load you might be higher or lower than the amp was designed. Those factory amps can sometimes be finicky. I would have used factory wiring configuration. It would be a safer method. As long as it works and your amp isn't heating up or turning off it's probably all good.
I have Had No Issues With It, Didn’t Try to Over Think It Just Supplied It With The Same Resistance It Had Previously, It Been On A Few 16 Hr Road Trips Pushing it so I’m sure it’s good, that factory speaker was dual voice coil but where wired individual witch was odd to me so that’s why I think paralleling it worked fine couldn’t find any factory specs iv been looking for a while that’s why I made the video, was full ready to mess it up, I think the only thing I would do differently now is a different sub, someone commented a company that makes a 6.5 and think that would of been a better fit, if my wife’s sun every goes out might try it on there and see what happens, but at the end of the day the Bose stuff has no public info it’s all secrets, because They use none traditional methods so I found just matching the resistance worked wonders for the results I achieved, it could be wrong idk but it works lol
I also had a weird suspicion that each coil was run off it’s own channel the way it was wired but I can’t prove any of that without really digging into the amp and that could be a wild goose chase
It was a fun project for me and I enjoyed it Still works great till today and I think it sounded better but I was full on ready to run my own amp if it didn’t work out, check out the description for some other good choices
You just gotta sub from me bro. Great video ! Every since I got my 03 Escalade I been wanting to know how to do this. My truck basically has the same set up. If you were to put a price on it how much would you say is a fair price to do this job ? At first I thought I wanted to do it but after seeing the seats gotta come out I'm like dang. Again thanks for the video ! Good job !
What headunit are you using? I'm going to be gutting my cab soon and want to do this upgrade. Awesome video...also I seen you said you found a 6.5 sub you might do in your wife's vehicle. Interested in seeing what that sub is.
I’m Running the Kenwood DDX5706S, Think The Radio is perfect for these trucks due to the dial knob, hate button volumes, The Dial Hits Perfect When you rest your hand on the shifter in drive but think the radio is discontinued due too every company is switching from buttons and knobs to just screens to maximize the screen size, and a gentlemen commented a company I’ll see if I can find it real quick 🤘🏻
Iv been getting the question about the sub a lot so I popped the link in the description, thanks your for the support and feedback greatly appreciate it ! Helps me keep improving the channel!
I have the Kenwood DDX373BT headunit and Infinity ref6532ex front doors and Infinity ref5032cfx rear doors all with baffles and I don't think it sounds the best, contemplating changing stuff.
So looked into it the door speaker have slightly more resistance then what I’m running 3-4ohms the model I have are 2.7 witch is closer to what the Bose amp likes and iv heard rumor of the none excelon radios not having greats sound, the last digit is a s, I have never Baught a none excelon Kenwood so don’t know from first hand experience
Aye bro I got a question I got el64 sky high on the doors and I wanted to do the skar 6.5” evl on the center console but I saw you said something about you said it’ll cut the power to the amp can you explain that a little more like is it a big difference when it cuts power
Yeah factory amp cuts power when you turn it all the way up so it doesn’t blow the factory sub but I have a JL Stealth box so it complements each other perfectly down low the little sub helps out then up top the bigger subs take over it’s only when you have it all the way up tho, so for normal people not trying to go def it will be fine but if it’s not enough for you it would be pretty easy to just add a little 300 wat amp to it if you need more from the sub
I don’t remember , before I took the wires off the factory sub I took note of everything with pictures and paid close attention to the polarity stamped on the factory sub each was stamped with positive and negative for each coil
Think it would be fine the main fitment issues was right at the mounting surface, the kicker sub had a pretty thick backing to it, been contemplating about adding a separate amp for it just to see but would be just to see sense I have the new JL Setup in the back
@@QS_TIPS sweet hopefully it works, and do u by any chance know how much the factory bose sub depth measured? just wondering before I order the sub that way when I take apart my center console I can be more sure
Didn’t u say that Bose was 2 ohm and I only u do one coil so it’s a dvc that thing was connected to 1ohm so technically won’t be the same becUse u can only run it to like a 2 ohm
I specifically sorted out the infinities that I listed in the description Because They Match Similarly to the factory speaker’s 2.7 ish ohms, Meaning You Can Upgrade The Factory Speakers And Still have the factory amp power them with basically a plug and play upgrade for Bose Systems, I Have No Shortage Of Highs or Mids A lot Of People Don’t Like It Because Of The Bass Cut But I Personally Think It’s Perfect For My 2 12’s The Factory System Sounds Great At Low Volume And When You Want To Party, The 12’s Take Over When You Crank it up and The Highs Are Really Crisp, I can’t turn it all the way up it hurts my ears and they are pretty seasoned with loud music
I have a 07 avalanche with the bose system. Do you know if I can remove my center and update the sub like you did? Are you able to run the sub independently? My speakers all work together and do not separate them from the center sub.
th-cam.com/video/rKdaHvpkNdQ/w-d-xo.html not the best video but this how to remove it from looking at the sub via pics it looks do able to me with a spacer can’t find how much clearance is above the box but from the little info I can gather I think I could make it happen looks to be the same sub just different box design
If you google 2008 silverado bose sub should give you a good idea of the box design I’d apoxy a piece of abs plastic with trimming to make the sub seal properly so it will fit flush to the top not in the recessed part, hope this helps let me know if you figure it out that would be a cool project !
13:55 will show you the diagram I used I just added two speaker wires to the factory wiring to wire them in parallel making the speaker have 2 ohms of resistance, when you pull the factory sub out the positive and negative will be stamped on the speaker just take note of the speaker wire color, this is all powered by the factory amp
Should be fine don’t remember the specs off it I think it was 350rms @ 4ohms just don’t crank the amp all the way up should be good more power closer to the rms ratting the better the performance
@@QS_TIPS thank you, I just wanted to know because I added a center console and it came with the Bose subwoofer and I added an aftermarket amp to run and right now it’s bridged
@@QS_TIPS my skar evl in the console vibrates my console and me no like. would that happen if the sub isnt sitting flush and air is escaping into the console? i have to go back and add a spacer into mine
@@QS_TIPS my skar evl in the console vibrates my console and me no like. would that happen if the sub isnt sitting flush and air is escaping into the console? i have to go back and add a spacer into mine
@@jakaylanmarshall6632 not sure, a lot of things in play but with the nature of the setup you will get feed back threw the console even on the stock sub if you pay close enough attention to me it’s a concern only if it makes a rattling noise and that could be mitigated with sound deading
@@QS_TIPS yeah it probably just a lot of bass to be right there😂 the only thing rattling is everything is everything in my cupholders and cubbys but ill add the spacer and clean out the cubbys
Smart man choosing that truck restoring one of these is cheaper than buying a new truck and they are way more reliable and last longer. I did the same thing I got a 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 ext cab from an elderly man that garaged it and I was lucky it was in fantastic shape. I gave $6500 for it and it has 174k miles on the 4.8l engine. I owned a 2004 Chevy Silverado LT before and put 220k miles on it before I sold it. It never was put in the shop for anything but service. It had the 5.3l, but it is really hard to feel a big difference in the engines. The 5.3l pulled better of course, but the 4.8l feels smoother on acceleration to me. Mine does have a leak I need to get fixed it is on the agenda. I had to replace the blend door actuator behind the air bag which was a huge pain, but well worth the money. I researched a lot on older trucks to see what my best options were for the price and it was the 1999-2004 GMC/Silverados #1 followed by the 1997-2003 F-150's specifically the 4.6l engines. The F-150 trucks are cheaper so they are a great choice for those looking to save money. I hear they are a lot harder to work on though so I chose another GM. I would not touch a modern truck right now. Too expensive and reliability and longivity is just not there anymore. I miss the Bose my 2004 had though. I just replaced the 6-1/2" door speakers and rear 4x6" with Pioneer speakers. Looking for the new head unit and 4 channel amp and going to add an 8-10" sub and amp.
Hell yeah that’s exactly why me and my wife drive one, new trucks are not even make it threw the warranty with having to be in the shop, plus that payment I’m good, make sure you check out my sub install videos I finished it off with two JL W3’s in a stealth box
I like how the 2 chicks in the back are passing a blunt while watching the kids 😂😂😂
Allegedly*
Priorities
If ya know, ya know❤
Just holding a cig funny that’s all 😝😂😂
"CPS"
You can always use rice to pour into an odd shaped enclosure to determine the volume. Then pour it out into a known container size. I feel informed now :)
I’d Be A Ricer Then 🤔
you can always do it with a plastic bag filled with water. Measure the weight of the water and it's super easy to convert that into volume. More accurate than rice and much cheaper.
Packing peanut works good too.
Clever. Thanks
I have gotten a 6.5 in EVL skar audio sub and had the same issue of it not fitting. I watched your video part way through. Saw you had to trim and I almost gave up on that and sent the speaker back because I didn’t want to bore a hold in the box. I finished this video and now I realized how easily I could just jb weld the hood I make. Thank you for this video.
Glad it helped man I’m interested to see how good it can get with some good power behind it
Finally!!! A video with my truck!!! Thank you sir! You are a gentleman and a scholar!
Happy To Help !
Well, for starters, great video my man! I've had a 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche since 2006 and for a few years now the in dash sub has been making a rattling noise, but only at certain frequencies. For years now I've been looking for someone who has done this exact thing, I've search all over, even looking at a Tang Bang from Parts Express. You nailed it! Hoping you made a video about recovering your seats too. I was just talking to some of my guys about do I get rid of my ride or keep it and do some work. Well sir! I think you just gave me the inspiration I was needing. Times are a little tough right now for everyone and we need more people in this world like you! Thanks again.
Appreciate the kind words my wife has a 03 Yukon I’ll make a video when I do hers it actually wasn’t to bad to do your self my truck is still holding up great
@@QS_TIPS Do you remember where you got the materials to do the seats? That is if you aren't going to be doing her Yukon soon.
@CDP135Z EBay I found the gm part number for the factory foam you can get it for around a 100 I just did the bottom normally what wears out then eBay has cover kits in real leather I got both top and bottom from a seller with good reviews then if you go to seat shop I think is the name they have really good videos on braking down the seats pretty easy actually seat shop has really nice cover but they are more money seen controversial reviews on there foam so I went with factory to be safe it’s the best for comfort it will even tell you how to transfer heated seats over if the pad isn’t burnt out probably will do there covers for my wife they have factory like quality but again they are more expensive normally only the driver seat fails but I had to do both my front all in all I think I only had 600 in material a lot cheaper then a upholstery shop but a lot of that work is so so now hope this helps you out
I'm glad I came across this vid. I just bought a 2004 Yukon Denali with 129,800 miles and everything is still factory after two owners. I've got alot to do on restoration. LOL
Definitely Worth It ! Love These Trucks
Good job. Finally a good step by step by a real dude!!!!
Thanks for making this video! The Bose sub in my Tahoe has always been something I’ve been thinking of replacing without having to resort to aftermarket enclosures that delete the air vent. Cool to see that it can be done pretty easily - thanks for showing us the way!
I appreciate the feedback! Check out the comments someone recommended a company that sells 6.5 in subs that would make this a lot easier sense it would be the same size sub not as much modifications, might try it out and make a video on it if my wife’s Bose sub ever goes out.
@@QS_TIPS a animal state of
Nicely done so glad you made this video I've been trying to find some info for my sub in my tahoe and couldn't find non till I came across your video thanks a bunch
This is pretty great! I've spent a couple hours searching "2003 Yukon subwoofer replacement" and zero. This includes one guy who posted like 7 videos on replacing all the Bose stereo components in his suburban, except of course the subwoofer was left original. Saw your video finally listed on the side and it is just what I was looking for. A little more clarity on color coding, which are left/right positive and negative would be helpful so we can get polarities right.
Appreciate the feed back, when you remove the speaker the polarity’s are marked on the speaker positive and negative just take a picture and take note before cutting/disconnecting
Ive been searching for a while on a how to video for this, found this video. Im 15 and got an 03 yukon xl with the bose, im planning on Ds18 door speakers as well as the 6.5 inch sub, im confident from watching this, thanks!
Hell yeah man good luck on the build ! Love that young kids are still into this stuff .
@@QS_TIPS My first priority is a new torque converter rn, it sputters really bad at 4000 rpm so Its drivable but it takes forever to get to speed lol, love your trucks man
@Tuxedo5.3-d9e hell yeah if you get a trans jack from harbor freight makes it pretty easy I just have the cheap scissor lift, need a super long extension too and once your drop the crossmember and let the engine all the way down the bell housing bolts are pretty easy then
@@QS_TIPS Yeah, im gonna have my dad help me, he replaced the trans on our old 99 chevy, wish I could find that truck again. I also need a new guage cluster mine started smoking so i just hope I have gas for rn lol
Replaced the cluster and the one in my wife’s truck you can get them rebuilt or just order one rebuilt and add the transmission temp on them to it’s not to bad off eBay got mine in white looks sick
22:02 Great video, editing, two thumbs up. And yes i concur with previous comment high five to your old lady and friend hanging out at 420. Currently looking to do upgrades on 04 Silverado Bose system. This was spot on info. Subcribed tonight
Appreciate the support !
I never would’ve known there was a speaker in there until i saw this video
Glad to help, I figured it out when they first came out, always wanted to mess with it, was always impressed with the factory bass at the time compared to base radios
Awesome vid bud! I got an identical 05 GMC Sierra as you, interior and all and I had no idea there was a speaker in there.
Appreciate The Feed Back! I Love These Trucks
That focus definitely had me laughing man! 😂😂 keep the videos coming. I’m enjoying them bro!
Truck build turned out great and so did the sub. I've always liked GM stock BOSE for what it is. I have BOSE in my 2006 GMC yukon and it sounded great. I did the Y91 Lux BOSE upgrade along with the GM TNR 800 navigation radio. It sounds noticeably stronger. I've also Dynamatted my doors and have Infinity speakers in the rear doors.
That’s awesome! I was looking into that amp upgrade as well to possibly do before I completed this but I have no complaints right now with my high sound output, just think my 2 12’s are not performing where I want them so I been planning on upgrading to something stronger, I have a pole on my community tab talking more about it.🤘🏻
Awesome instal man. I was looking for a video just like this for my Bose upgrade. The only thing is that when you measured impedance you only accounted for one voice coil and it looked like the Bose had 2. Depending on how it was wired (most likely at 4ohms) it could be 4 or 1 ohms.
The interior speakers on mine were at 4 ohms for the rear and 2 ohms front door plus 2 ohms on the tweeter, wired together to total out at 4 ohms per channel. Great video you definitely inspired me to make a similar upgrade soon!
All the speakers iv worked with advertise the voice cool impedance per coil so if it’s a dual 4 ohm each coil will read 4 ohms the bose sub was a dual 2 ohm
Great video, thanks for sharing! I just got an 05 GMC 2500hd with Bose and upgrading the sound system now. The next time you have the center console out, consider filling the factory box with Poly-fil stuffing. I'm not sure how it works but if the box is too small the Poly-fil stuffing will trick you speaker into thinking it has more room.
I found that Jl Makes A Stealth Box 10 for that space in the Yukon might go that route if I pull it again or do it my wife’s truck, make sure to check out the newest video I put in a stealth box in the back sounds great,congrats on the truck man !
Hey Q...Very well done. Kudo's to saving something from the scrap heap and making it live again while at the same time, making it yours!
Appreciate it! To me it’s a brand new truck now a lot of people don’t get it
Wow, you are really bringing the truck up. The console is surprising, didn't realize that was needed.
I need to replace the dash in mine, so you inspired me
I’m Glade I Inspired you these trucks are fun to work on and quite easy to get parts for depending on location, wish you luck !
I love my Bose Speakers. I was able to get NOS stock replacements but my back speakers went and I am putting some JBLs in place of them now. I have had a custom box with 12's from 10 or so years now and it was a great compliment to the system. I think just upgrading them head unit is a HUGE improvement on this system. Nice job on yours
Appreciate it man love these trucks !
I'm in the same boat as you with my 2015 Colorado. The dang rear door speakers along with the stock head unit have very little sound at all. The front speakers are good. It is just a WT so it doesn't have Bose, but from what I have heard; the factory head units even the Bose really equalize everything out so that the rears are "accompaniment" and not loud or outgoing. I've heard changing the head unit to an aftermarket unit will make them louder. But most head units only have 120W for the entire system.
Then adding to my dilemma is the fact that the 2015 and up Colorado has electric steering assist that uses up to 60 amps from the electrical system. So tampering with the system with adding a 2 ohm or 1 ohm amp for subs seems so impractical or just asking for future troubles; or like some dramatizations put it "Even death"... I guess it just depends upon how badly it feels to lose power steering and or when it decides to not show up for work...
Awesome truck man, hard work always pays off...
I’d get a good head unit think that will help you out a lot the Kenwood I’m running pushes 50watt rms per channel and iv had good results with it in my last truck that was none bose, find it to be to powerful for the factory amplifier because it wants to see a low power signal preferably so I’m counting on the pac unit to convert the signal so I’m sure I loose some sound quality there but I love my head unit and it still sounds amazing
Nice little tutorial! I'm going to be doing something similar with a JL 6w3v3 here before long.
That’s gonna be crazy let me know how that turns out !
Just found this video. Nice job and way to be different. Could you just install the two ohm version of this mini kicker sub?
I didn’t see one when I purchased this one or I definitely would of not a large selection at this speaker size I even considered a mid speaker for it but the plan was if it didn’t work out just un pin the factory amp for the sub and add a mini amp for it
I think the Bose sub does a pretty decent job for what it is in my next gen Suburban. I am just going to add a 10" or 12" with a small amp between the captain chairs with a sub level control up front. I ordered a new console lid to match the front console to hide it. Thanks for the video.
I agree if they are still working for you, all of the paper materials on my speakers where falling apart and and causing them to sound bad I even picked up some replacement door speakers from the junk yard that sounded blown as well so I just decided to replace everything, I did install 2 12’s as well thing sounds really good now has a good balance when it’s low with the small sub and then when you want it loud the big subs sound great up loud, that videos on my Chanel if you want to check it out, good luck with the console box sounds like a cool idea definitely will be A unique setup
You nailed it on this video man great job thanks for sharing & that truck really came a long way! You’re talented keep it up brother
Appreciate it Means A lot Thank You!
One question he lost me at the wiring the 4 ohm to 2 ohm and how does it connect to the factory harness. My factory counsel wiring pig tail has 4 wires to the subwoofer itself (red and green and a set of stripped red and green) Any help would be great
So I got the polarity off the back of the speaker it’s stamped positive and negative so before you disconnect it take a picture so you remember the colors/wires I then combined the two positives together and two negatives together and wire the speaker in parallel In accordance with the diagram I posted in the video witch essentially makes the resistance of the speaker two ohms not to get to technical you can make it easy and just google how to wire a dual 4 ohm speaker to two ohm resistance there is a lot of diagrams for reference to not make it over complicated and its just plug and play at that point wire the two positives as one and the two negatives as one and wire them into the diagram I used 10 gauge sub wire to wire up the sub side hope this helps
Love the video. I have a bose in my truck and I want more bass. I added a bazooka tube. It was better, but I still want more bass. Great video bro. That upgrade isnt expensive, just time
Appreciate it!, The cheap upgrades are always the most fun, not as much anxiety if you mess up 🤣
Can you show pictures of the wiring you did on the subwoofer?
All I Have Is The Video That’s Why I Put The Diagram But The Speaker Is Marked Positive and Negative For The Factory sub so just take note of that before you remove them from the sub wiring
Sorry man my adhd kicked in and skipped right over that diagram. Thank you.
🤣 no worries
You've done alot of work on that thing looks good.
Appreciate It! Plan on Keeping it for life have some more plans for it once I get moved into my new house🤘🏻
@@QS_TIPS I have a 07 Tahoe with the Bose system. And was wanting to up grade the speakers. Some pl say you cant do it, bla bla bla. Crutchfield has limited speakers to up grade. Mainly for the doors. But I want to do the console sub.
If you actually call crutch field they will recommend the speakers I installed in the description, I opted for the ones with the tweeters for a louder sound but if you want a just a crisper sound they make the speaker without the tweeter as well, infinity is the only speakers I know of that will work due to the 2ohm rating witch is the same “really close to Bose” really simple install as well I think the baffling helped out a ton as well !
@@QS_TIPS and you installed a kicker ?
Yes only Sub I Found Small Enough To Work and be able to run at 2 ohm, if you did more of a mid range speaker sure that would work as well but not sure if the bass performance would be the same, kickers not popular with everyone but iv had nothing but good results with them one of my favorite cheaper speakers.
Man i have been searching for a video about this for a few months now thanks man im installing a better amp and sub in the console but wasnt sure how to go about replacing the sub this was great i know which direction im goin
Let me know how the better amp works iv been super curious how much is left on the table with more juice
I'm wiring up a 4 channel 1000w amp gonna use the front channels for my door speakers and gonna bridge the back channels for the sub..the sub is skar evl 65 d4 and the door speakers I went with Blaupunkt 6.5's 4 way speakers they should sound pretty crisp then I'm gonna run a mono sub to a skar 10 in a bandpass just in case want to rattle some windows at the stop light 😂
@@mattrodgers7354 hell yeah that’s gonna be wild 🤣
How did the wiring work as far as installing the subwoofer and have you done anything with the doors? I’m currently in the process of my dad replacing mine as well. I have two 6 1/2 mid range speakers and two 3 1/2 inch tweeters for that front tiller that I’m currently trying to figure out proper configuration with the intimated into the factory Bose system. I installed a aftermarket head unit and had quite the time with the steering wheel controls and retaining RAC and whatever other bells and whistles, I kept the factory amp. I did not bypass it, but I did install aftermarket subwoofer and tomato amp in the back. I am currently looking for a four channel and deciding on the configuration for speakers I’ve thought quite a bit about what you’re doing here and I’m wondering how simple it was to install when it came to wiring. Were you able to just use the existing connections or had to run wire to an amp without issue?
I just used the same factory wiring and plug and added a separate piece of speaker wire to wire the sub for 2 ohm resistance diagram in vid, for the doors I’m running infinity highs that are rated at 2 ohms all links are in the description
Hey brother Quinton was going to ask you how did you like that kilmat sound deadner I'm looking into doing my truck but haven't decided which to use that works the best I'm leaning towards second skin but Ive seen noico and kilmat as well nice build too truck looks great
I have no complaints had it on for over a year now had to take some down to fix a window regulator but actually wasn’t too bad to still get into the door and I just put new matting on after, keeps the truck quite and I have no rattles
@@QS_TIPS Kool thanks for the quick reply bro
No highs, no lows..... Must be Bose 😊
Wish you could sit in it lol
I have a Tahoe planning on using your video to help me out. Thank you brother!
If You Want To Send Me Pics When Its Done Id Love To See How It Turns Out ! Quintoneverhart@gmail.com
Thanks for making the video im actually doing the same project on a n 04 Tahoe
No Problem This Was a Fun one For Me I love these trucks !
Appreciate the video, now I know what to do for my Yukon.
Appreciate the support !
Awesome job man. Super clean and super nice
Appreciate it, it’s something iv always wanted to mess with
Truck looks dope, great job. And the video was great. Thanks!
Appreciate the feedback I should have some more content coming soon once I get moved into the new place !
Great vid man, I enjoyed it. Restoring an 06 myself.
That’s Awesome, One Of The Best Trucks Ever made, Easy To Work On And Reliable
Nice finally found a video on this up grade 👏 thanks ... how is it sounding now?
Still going strong haven’t had any issue compliments the system down low with the volume low and the bigger speakers take over up top have a vid on the 10’s I installed to replace the 12’s
Having trouble with mine I added a Memphis prx624 in same spot it has selectable 2 or 4 ohm wired now at 4. I currently have a loc and amp with a 12. loc is wired in at those wires 12 bumps but the 6 seems untuned and hasn’t sounded right since installed Even without amp and loc do I need a the 4 wire sub I want to pull this huge 12 out too. have a cleaner look. stock hu
All depends on the amp output for that speaker if is a multichannel the smaller outputs are not a lot only meant for door speakers, the factory amp power would perform best at 2 ohms, that’s assuming the speaker condition and box seal is good
Been waiting to see if anyone did this . Now I can attempt my Ds18 . Thanks great video
Iv been waiting sense they started putting them in trucks lol just finally said f it, it’s been 20 years and haven’t found one yet so I knew it was gonna be a solid first video for the channel
Great vid brother,appreciate the detailed insight. So for clarification the speaker is 2ohm correct?,but is the speaker size a 6.5 or 6-3/4? Im planning on pulling console as well for same purpose. But wanna get the right size that will be direct fit,minus the filing. Wil a 6" suffice or should i go with 6.5 . Appreciate u man.
6.5 would fit better I did a 6 3/4 dual 2 ohm and wired it like the diagram I put in the video to make it 2 ohm resistance
1.1 ohm you for got the other coil. i just replace my rear speakers with some 6x4 skars. Found the brand by accident, friend had blow twitter and wanted cheap. google did not steer me wrong.(THIS TIME)
It’s a dual 2 ohm VoiceCoil speaker
Steel sick works best on metal to metal. But love watching this videoneed this info. Thanks
Just was trying to use what I had lol the apoxy worked really well
Do you remember how much more space you had behind the kicker before it hit something? I am trying to spec a 6.5a" woofer and am wondering if I can get a taller sub than the kicker you have. Is there anything Infront of the sub blocking excursion? I could always run a spacer if not.
You can reach behind the console with it installed and it has tons of room and you can feel around for your self on the passenger side
Thank you for this video! Answers a lot of questions I had about taking on this installation. I dig your truck man!
Appreciate It!, Have More Planned For it Now Iv Been Driving it A lot So Stay Tunned In 🫡🇺🇸
Any possibility you could showm me how you have that worked fully?? Did you use all 4 wires from Bose amp?? I have a 6.5 dvc Skar to fit(with little bit of shaving 😅)...
I used all 4 wires yes the polarity is marked on the bose speaker so just not that then I used the wire diagram I provided on screen and some jumper speaker wire to do the rest
Good job man! some one had to lay out there..and God said had to be yoU...for the world to see !
You win best comment lol! Ever sense these trucks came out iv always been curious and wanted to mess with these Bose systems and every time I’d look for info there would be little to find, that’s why I knew this would be a good foundation to start my channel because I can’t be the only one with this curiosity.
My speakers went out last night and had to dig for videos to see who makes more sense and liked, had to be you ! Thanks for sharing it man you the best
@@mastersmind602 that's what i was hoping to accomplish here so hearing that means alot! Hope your project goes well.
God Bless 🙌
great and informative video. amazing how far you have come with that truck!
Appreciate it! I’m Going All Out, Plan On It Being My Forever Truck As Long No Accidents Happen “Knock On Wood”
Man this was a great video. I have been wanting to do this for a while.
Appreciate It, Was A Fun One Iv Wanted To Do This Sense these trucks came out.
Nice work was just about to do the bypass of the bose system and now I wont
Appreciate it, yeah if you get 2ohm you’ll be good my door speakers are made by infinity think they are rated at 2.5 ohms
@QS_TIPS hell anything would be better than those made out of paper shizzz called door speakers. I really wish there was a cheaper way to tie in aftermarket android head unit without needing the $100 data can bus box for steering wheel buttons and xm/On-star. Not like I could ever hookup the On-star being 1990s technology. Barely able to send data. But definitely can't now. WTF 2G TECH
Yeah I wasn’t impressed with this pac module had problems with one and if you go to the bad reviews it’s not to hot but there is only two company’s with a module on the market so hands are tied I was doing research on how to by-bass all the bs and just have steering wheel controls but just called it good after I tried a new module didn’t have any issue with that one but you loose the low frequencies for the Bose amp if you got that route
You guys are the best iwantfreestuff
😂
for a first video it was great
Appreciate it!
Real good first video.
Appreciate it! Have alot more coming once i get finished moving .
I watched the video and read a couple dozen comments. But i never really heard you say how it actually sounded? If it was worth the time and money ive heard many say. Its like gutting a dog. Id think it would add some mid bass. But is it really worth it? I recently totaled my 2003 2500hd crew cab without the bose system. I replaced the factory speackers in my hd. And head unite powered the door speakers with a old school ppi 4 channel and powered my JL with a old school audiobann amplifier. I wasnt impressed. I totally the hd Crew cab and now have a 2004 silverado crew cab with the bose system. Im going to buy the extra plug kit so i can still control the stereo from steering wheel. Whats the verdicts or oppion . If i install the newer pioneer with rear camera. I use the bose amplifier for the replacement eclipse in doors and a aftermarket amplier for the to 10s?. Replace console sub? Or is it even worth it? Im lazy as of right now to see what power the bose is per channel? Anyone care to share your opinion. I what a good SQ system. Im 53 and ive always loved my clean install and clear crispy highs and mids with deep clean bass. Any one?
I Enjoyed the project definelty think if it’s your only source of base I’d run a aftermarket amp if your really trying to push it, but it works really good for me down low it does start to base cut just like the factory sun does up top but I run 2 10’s and it complements each other quite nicely JL makes a stealth box for under the center console to if you want to go that route I think it’s made for the Yukon/Tahoe might do it to my wife’s car.
Another one I like the meeting with the fam lol
Crazy, I got a regal project car too!
Hell yeah make sure you check out my new vids have a couple in the car
Great first video
Appreciate the support !
Great job my man!!!
Appreciate it!
Al that work was good but could of just reconed sealed it but you still did an amazing job 👏 not hating actually impressive
Appreciate it, it was more of curiosity/fun project and to see what would happen, iv always been interested in messing with these systems
Hello friend can you please help me out. I installed jbls on the front door and hooked up a kenwood head unit with crux harness. Did that with on my Escalade 2003. Boy does it sound shit all of a sudden. Bose was sounding so good. Head unit and steering control works jsut great but the amplifier seems likes it’s not working at all. Sub woofer doesn’t kick in at all. What could I be doing wrong ?
Jbl only makes 4 ohm resistance speakers I believe for highs, the Bose amp is set up for 2 ohms so probably doesn’t even have enough juice to move that 4 ohm speaker work plus Jbl takes a lot of power to run its made for a bigger amp you need lower resistance lower power speakers for the Bose amp
Someone cut my factory sub wires in the console and my rear door speakers rattle and make noise. They aren’t blown. Do you think it’s because they needed the sub?
If the speakers are rattling the glue probably came loose where the cone attaches to the speaker material that’s what I found was wrong with this factory sub I added it at the vary end of the video if you need a visual 5star audio has a good video that covers all the factory amp wiring for these trucks if you want to try fix the sub wiring
Wow nice job with that truck
Appreciate it ! have a few more plans for it
Ok so i have a question would it help to to fill the cavity with some tupe of fill to get a better sound? I know like my subwoofer for pa it was full of insulation in cavity. I have a 2020.gmc 2500hd with Bose system and I am not impressed with sound at all . I may have to do something similar. Thanks for the video
A follower recommended it but iv never done it on a ported box myself id feel like it would blow out
How much power does the Bose amp produce? And was it a very noticeable difference from the Bose sun to the kicker? It’s my wife’s suv and I just want a little more bump in it. She doesn’t care
Not sure of the power rating of the amp would love to see one tested, but it hit a little harder then stock but nothing crazy it would ruffle the mirror a little bit again it’s only a 6.75 in sub, I’m sure with a bigger amp it would hit pretty hard for what it is, I’d check out JL Stealth box for the Tahoe/yukon if you want a major change it goes under the console as well, but all in all I like this project and it fixed my messed up factory sub problem, If I have time to play with it more I’d love to see what more amps would do to it but I have the stealth box back behind the seat now so they both complement each other well so I have no complaints with the current setup have a video on that as well if you want to check it out
Got a new subscriber! Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for the sub!
Leave factory sub and Just add a under seat sub less trouble and probably way more bass
I have both check out my other videos
We’re you still running the factory Bose amp at the time?
Yes it’s still powering the sub and my door speakers sounds really good
Business popsicles 😎
I like the idea with the replacement speaker for the oe sub. Phone audio sucks but I was wondering how much better does it sound with your replacement
I loved it with the upgraded door speakers it sounded way better,the factory amp does cut power when you have it all the way up tho but that worked out perfect for my set up when the volume is low the little sub makes it sound great and then when I want to push it the 2 12’s take over
@@QS_TIPS I’m thinking about upgrading in my 2018 pickup. Thinking about the oe sub but put on its own amp. Or doing away with it and just doing all new door speakers and then 4-8” subs under the back seat
When I was doing research there was guys re amping the stock sub to remove the power cut and they had really good results to! If your truck is that new I would send the stock sub, the older trucks needs replacements just due to the age of the speakers they start failing
@@QS_TIPS the oe stuff sounds good but once you get close to 1/2 volume it just doesn’t perform. It’s like 1/2 volume is all you can get out of it
@@ccooper04 yeah thats just the factory making sure people dont blow all the speakers out, but to fix it you have to add your own amp witch can be quit the challenge to accomplish cleanly i think the best method i found was adding your own plug to the output harness so you dont chop the factory stuff up and wire the new amplifier straight to that, only output not on that plug is the sub but it wouldnt be hard to run wires straight to the sub, they have cool amps now that have highs lows mids and tweets able to be tunned individually with a sub channel as well so that way you dont burn the tweeters up, you can do it with a dsp to but iv never ventured that far into tunning but you have to have some nice teck to tune that or take it to shop to do it, but it can be done for sure i was contemplating doing it just to see how far i could take the kicker 6.75 but the way it turned out with the 12's cant beat it they complement each other nicely with the bass cut is right about the time my 12's start kicking in.
Great job 👍
Appreciate the love !
Good work brother
Appreciate it, Thank You !
You should have went to Parts express and bought a Tang band or Dayton Audio 6in sub to replace that, that kicker isn't gonna have enough power to make it hit, but a 6 inch Tang Band is only like 100 watts and they pack a good punch.
I’ll check them out, had no issues with the sound or performance of the current set up
Just looked, I agree think that would of worked better, never knew they had smaller subs then what I installed and it would of been the same diameter, if I ever have a round 2 I’ll defiantly try these for sure my wife has the bose too so maybe when hers gives out we can compare the two 🤘🏻
How many watts does the factory bose amp give the sub?
No clue iv heard there is a video out there, someone did a bench test on one but a lot of the info is on the deluxe amp only found in like Denali’s Escalades never did find the video
That factory sub looks like it's got 2 coils with the 2 sets of terminals. Are you sure it wasn't a dual 2 ohm sub?
The whole truck was 2 ohm each coil read 2 ohms that’s why I wired the sub to make it a 2 ohm resistance as well
@@QS_TIPS What I'm saying is, if that factory sub had two coils and each are 2 ohm, then they have to be wired together in either parallel or series. So the amplifier is either seeing a 1 ohm or 4 ohm mono load.
When you replace it with a dual 4 ohm and wire it as a 2 ohm mono load you might be higher or lower than the amp was designed. Those factory amps can sometimes be finicky. I would have used factory wiring configuration. It would be a safer method. As long as it works and your amp isn't heating up or turning off it's probably all good.
I have Had No Issues With It, Didn’t Try to Over Think It Just Supplied It With The Same Resistance It Had Previously, It Been On A Few 16 Hr Road Trips Pushing it so I’m sure it’s good, that factory speaker was dual voice coil but where wired individual witch was odd to me so that’s why I think paralleling it worked fine couldn’t find any factory specs iv been looking for a while that’s why I made the video, was full ready to mess it up, I think the only thing I would do differently now is a different sub, someone commented a company that makes a 6.5 and think that would of been a better fit, if my wife’s sun every goes out might try it on there and see what happens, but at the end of the day the Bose stuff has no public info it’s all secrets, because They use none traditional methods so I found just matching the resistance worked wonders for the results I achieved, it could be wrong idk but it works lol
I also had a weird suspicion that each coil was run off it’s own channel the way it was wired but I can’t prove any of that without really digging into the amp and that could be a wild goose chase
Have to keep in mind bose does a lot with little to no power basically the opposite of the industry standard
Compared to factory and not being able to put in as many watts, how well did this sub do?
It was a fun project for me and I enjoyed it Still works great till today and I think it sounded better but I was full on ready to run my own amp if it didn’t work out, check out the description for some other good choices
where did you get that box for the 12s???
Off EBay, I’d go with a dual 10 set up tho air space makes a lot more sense, my stealth box performs 3 time better then the 12’s
Do I have to remove center console i just want to disconnect sub
You could un pin it from the harness under the cup holders attached video link for explanation of what wires what
th-cam.com/video/9l697oeCMlk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_z1PNTlV3PT9Aayu
Tank u
You just gotta sub from me bro. Great video ! Every since I got my 03 Escalade I been wanting to know how to do this. My truck basically has the same set up. If you were to put a price on it how much would you say is a fair price to do this job ? At first I thought I wanted to do it but after seeing the seats gotta come out I'm like dang. Again thanks for the video ! Good job !
Appreciate the support I did it in a day just a job of passion for me
I have a 05 Silverado crew cab..What speakers did you put in the doors?
Nice Truck! Check Out The description iv listed everything in there highly recommend the baffling as well sounds amazing🤘🏻
What headunit are you using? I'm going to be gutting my cab soon and want to do this upgrade. Awesome video...also I seen you said you found a 6.5 sub you might do in your wife's vehicle. Interested in seeing what that sub is.
I’m Running the Kenwood DDX5706S, Think The Radio is perfect for these trucks due to the dial knob, hate button volumes, The Dial Hits Perfect When you rest your hand on the shifter in drive but think the radio is discontinued due too every company is switching from buttons and knobs to just screens to maximize the screen size, and a gentlemen commented a company I’ll see if I can find it real quick 🤘🏻
He said Parts Express Tang Brand or Daytona 6in Sub
Iv been getting the question about the sub a lot so I popped the link in the description, thanks your for the support and feedback greatly appreciate it ! Helps me keep improving the channel!
I have the Kenwood DDX373BT headunit and Infinity ref6532ex front doors and Infinity ref5032cfx rear doors all with baffles and I don't think it sounds the best, contemplating changing stuff.
So looked into it the door speaker have slightly more resistance then what I’m running 3-4ohms the model I have are 2.7 witch is closer to what the Bose amp likes and iv heard rumor of the none excelon radios not having greats sound, the last digit is a s, I have never Baught a none excelon Kenwood so don’t know from first hand experience
Aye bro I got a question I got el64 sky high on the doors and I wanted to do the skar 6.5” evl on the center console but I saw you said something about you said it’ll cut the power to the amp can you explain that a little more like is it a big difference when it cuts power
Does it cut power to the door speakers or just center console sub?
Yeah factory amp cuts power when you turn it all the way up so it doesn’t blow the factory sub but I have a JL Stealth box so it complements each other perfectly down low the little sub helps out then up top the bigger subs take over it’s only when you have it all the way up tho, so for normal people not trying to go def it will be fine but if it’s not enough for you it would be pretty easy to just add a little 300 wat amp to it if you need more from the sub
@@QS_TIPS mmmm okay okay appreciate bro not everyone answers when the video a year old keep doing yo thang bro
What colors are the power wires for the sub
I don’t remember , before I took the wires off the factory sub I took note of everything with pictures and paid close attention to the polarity stamped on the factory sub each was stamped with positive and negative for each coil
Bro just finding your channel I'm sub'n
Appreciate the support !
would a Sundown SASERIES-6.5-D2 be too tall to fit in that small space?
Think it would be fine the main fitment issues was right at the mounting surface, the kicker sub had a pretty thick backing to it, been contemplating about adding a separate amp for it just to see but would be just to see sense I have the new JL Setup in the back
@@QS_TIPS sweet hopefully it works, and do u by any chance know how much the factory bose sub depth measured? just wondering before I order the sub that way when I take apart my center console I can be more sure
Have no clue but you can reference the kicker specs hopefully that helps
@@QS_TIPS sure does, thanks!
Did you use anything to seal up the sub to the housing?
No just went with the foam that came on the speaker could of done more but didn’t see the need due to how the sub is wired threw the sealing surface
What size was the Bose Sub You Removed, what Size was that you installed?
The Bose was 6.5 the kicker was a 6.75
A Gentlemen commented a company that makes a 6.5 sub that might be a better fit
Didn’t u say that Bose was 2 ohm and I only u do one coil so it’s a dvc that thing was connected to 1ohm so technically won’t be the same becUse u can only run it to like a 2 ohm
That’s why I wired it differently trying to achieve the same resistance, haven’t had any issue’s with it.
Do you have a separate amp for ur door speakers?
I specifically sorted out the infinities that I listed in the description Because They Match Similarly to the factory speaker’s 2.7 ish ohms, Meaning You Can Upgrade The Factory Speakers And Still have the factory amp power them with basically a plug and play upgrade for Bose Systems, I Have No Shortage Of Highs or Mids A lot Of People Don’t Like It Because Of The Bass Cut But I Personally Think It’s Perfect For My 2 12’s The Factory System Sounds Great At Low Volume And When You Want To Party, The 12’s Take Over When You Crank it up and The Highs Are Really Crisp, I can’t turn it all the way up it hurts my ears and they are pretty seasoned with loud music
Should have just put 4-8s across the bottom of the back seat
1999-2006 Silverado Sierra Crew Cab Sub Install 2 12's "Part 1"
th-cam.com/video/zYBYSfpBuJc/w-d-xo.html
I have a 07 avalanche with the bose system. Do you know if I can remove my center and update the sub like you did? Are you able to run the sub independently? My speakers all work together and do not separate them from the center sub.
Is it the classic body style like mine or the newer body style ?
It’s the newer.
th-cam.com/video/rKdaHvpkNdQ/w-d-xo.html not the best video but this how to remove it from looking at the sub via pics it looks do able to me with a spacer can’t find how much clearance is above the box but from the little info I can gather I think I could make it happen looks to be the same sub just different box design
If you google 2008 silverado bose sub should give you a good idea of the box design I’d apoxy a piece of abs plastic with trimming to make the sub seal properly so it will fit flush to the top not in the recessed part, hope this helps let me know if you figure it out that would be a cool project !
I need to disconnect my sub. What wires go to it?
Is this with the factory Bose amp?
Yes I utilized the factory amp
How did u wire the speaker up
13:55 will show you the diagram I used I just added two speaker wires to the factory wiring to wire them in parallel making the speaker have 2 ohms of resistance, when you pull the factory sub out the positive and negative will be stamped on the speaker just take note of the speaker wire color, this is all powered by the factory amp
Is I put a 400 watts sub on it what will happen?
Should be fine don’t remember the specs off it I think it was 350rms @ 4ohms just don’t crank the amp all the way up should be good more power closer to the rms ratting the better the performance
@@QS_TIPS oh ok where is the amp located anyways
@AntThe1 it’s under the console behind the sub box
@@QS_TIPS is it possible to wire a other subwoofer?
What is the ohms on that Bose Subwoofer?
Dual 2 ohm voice coils
@@QS_TIPS thank you, I just wanted to know because I added a center console and it came with the Bose subwoofer and I added an aftermarket amp to run and right now it’s bridged
Iv Seen Forums Where Guys Get Crazy Results Out Of The Stock Sub On a Aftermarket Amp !
Why didn’t you just buy a 2 ohm they sell them same model ?
Also are you happy and satisfied with the sub performance?
Wasn’t available when I ordered it Definitely would of got a 2 ohm if they had it Covid time getting car audio stuff was limited
Yeah actually works out well with the stealth box they compliment each other nicely
Did everyone miss the rat in the HVAC. Skip to 6:10
🤣 definitely looks like it lol but I promise you I’d be out if there was one he would of going crazy with all the grinding lol
does that sub shake the console?
Like make a rattle no but if you put a bottle of water in the cup holder it will make it have ripples in it and it shakes the mirror a little bit
@@QS_TIPS my skar evl in the console vibrates my console and me no like. would that happen if the sub isnt sitting flush and air is escaping into the console? i have to go back and add a spacer into mine
@@QS_TIPS my skar evl in the console vibrates my console and me no like. would that happen if the sub isnt sitting flush and air is escaping into the console? i have to go back and add a spacer into mine
@@jakaylanmarshall6632 not sure, a lot of things in play but with the nature of the setup you will get feed back threw the console even on the stock sub if you pay close enough attention to me it’s a concern only if it makes a rattling noise and that could be mitigated with sound deading
@@QS_TIPS yeah it probably just a lot of bass to be right there😂 the only thing rattling is everything is everything in my cupholders and cubbys but ill add the spacer and clean out the cubbys