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The headlight switch was a general 17571 and the dimmer I just bought a “80’s gm headlight switch” off eBay with the plug cut off with it was used in good condition

This setup had 3 of these think he had to replace them all like 4 times truck did a lot of sitting and you can put to much toque on the studs so cables would always be loose our stripped

Glad to help, I figured it out when they first came out, always wanted to mess with it, was always impressed with the factory bass at the time compared to base radios

Appreciate the support !

Truck runs great just randomly has a starting issue every couple starts no codes

Still waiting on the part should be here today

Update?

I put it in, starts a lot better and the problem hasn’t come back yet

It was sucking air in the broken dipstick?

@@jakerose1203 yes pcv system is always active

Appreciate it about to do one for the ford 9 in next week

Yeah haven’t had any problems with there stuff really nice and cheap if you look up car audio fabrication his channel is all top tier builds it’s all he uses, second vehicle I used them with too

Amazon just look up black hdpe, Amazon company name was buy plastic, I just got a 12x12 piece off a rough measurement I did for the space I was trying to mount it and routed the corners over for a nice look some Home Depot’s and marines stores carry it it’s high density polymer for boats stuffs super tuff

It’s been awhile but I believe I just did 4 gauge

@@QS_TIPS what about the smaller wire that goes onto the fuse box and the smaller ground wire on the battery? 8 gauge? just curious because i’m doing the work on my truck tomorrow to clean up the engine bay a little bit and i wanna make sure i have the correct wires.

It’s all the same size came in a kit from knuconcepts it’s 4 gauge all the way back

Yeah they Definitely like the power I feel like they can take more I’m sure this is vary conservative but I don’t have to worry about someone blowing them up with to much juice when someone else uses the truck

Should be fine don’t remember the specs off it I think it was 350rms @ 4ohms just don’t crank the amp all the way up should be good more power closer to the rms ratting the better the performance

@@QS_TIPS oh ok where is the amp located anyways

@AntThe1 it’s under the console behind the sub box

@@QS_TIPS is it possible to wire a other subwoofer?

Appreciate the love !

The factory’s sub is duel two ohms and the kicker is dual 4 ohms wired to 2 ohms resistance

Jbl only makes 4 ohm resistance speakers I believe for highs, the Bose amp is set up for 2 ohms so probably doesn’t even have enough juice to move that 4 ohm speaker work plus Jbl takes a lot of power to run its made for a bigger amp you need lower resistance lower power speakers for the Bose amp

6.5 would fit better I did a 6 3/4 dual 2 ohm and wired it like the diagram I put in the video to make it 2 ohm resistance

I have no complaints had it on for over a year now had to take some down to fix a window regulator but actually wasn’t too bad to still get into the door and I just put new matting on after, keeps the truck quite and I have no rattles

@@QS_TIPS Kool thanks for the quick reply bro

Appreciate the support I did it in a day just a job of passion for me

Wish you could sit in it lol

Also are you happy and satisfied with the sub performance?

Wasn’t available when I ordered it Definitely would of got a 2 ohm if they had it Covid time getting car audio stuff was limited

Yeah actually works out well with the stealth box they compliment each other nicely

Lays down like factory it’s really nice

All depends on the amp output for that speaker if is a multichannel the smaller outputs are not a lot only meant for door speakers, the factory amp power would perform best at 2 ohms, that’s assuming the speaker condition and box seal is good

If the speakers are rattling the glue probably came loose where the cone attaches to the speaker material that’s what I found was wrong with this factory sub I added it at the vary end of the video if you need a visual 5star audio has a good video that covers all the factory amp wiring for these trucks if you want to try fix the sub wiring

🤣 definitely looks like it lol but I promise you I’d be out if there was one he would of going crazy with all the grinding lol

Been thinking about getting one lol

Appreciate it!

That’s gonna be crazy let me know how that turns out !

Glad It Could Help!

Appreciate the support !

eBay I highly recommend getting the 10’s version air space is to small for 12’s check out my stealth box video they perform way better then the 12’s

I didn’t see one when I purchased this one or I definitely would of not a large selection at this speaker size I even considered a mid speaker for it but the plan was if it didn’t work out just un pin the factory amp for the sub and add a mini amp for it

Appreciate the support !

All the speakers iv worked with advertise the voice cool impedance per coil so if it’s a dual 4 ohm each coil will read 4 ohms the bose sub was a dual 2 ohm

I went to the seat post and used the seat nut, I checked for resistance and it was pretty close to zero I’d verify just in case read about some guys not getting good grounds there I just cleaned the paint off really good and I had some pretty large eyelets to crimp on just had to drill it out slightly to fit

@@QS_TIPS okay thanks couldn’t find a good grounding point

Does it cut power to the door speakers or just center console sub?

Yeah factory amp cuts power when you turn it all the way up so it doesn’t blow the factory sub but I have a JL Stealth box so it complements each other perfectly down low the little sub helps out then up top the bigger subs take over it’s only when you have it all the way up tho, so for normal people not trying to go def it will be fine but if it’s not enough for you it would be pretty easy to just add a little 300 wat amp to it if you need more from the sub

@@QS_TIPS mmmm okay okay appreciate bro not everyone answers when the video a year old keep doing yo thang bro

Appreciate it, it’s something iv always wanted to mess with

Appreciate the kind words my wife has a 03 Yukon I’ll make a video when I do hers it actually wasn’t to bad to do your self my truck is still holding up great

@@QS_TIPS Do you remember where you got the materials to do the seats? That is if you aren't going to be doing her Yukon soon.

@CDP135Z EBay I found the gm part number for the factory foam you can get it for around a 100 I just did the bottom normally what wears out then eBay has cover kits in real leather I got both top and bottom from a seller with good reviews then if you go to seat shop I think is the name they have really good videos on braking down the seats pretty easy actually seat shop has really nice cover but they are more money seen controversial reviews on there foam so I went with factory to be safe it’s the best for comfort it will even tell you how to transfer heated seats over if the pad isn’t burnt out probably will do there covers for my wife they have factory like quality but again they are more expensive normally only the driver seat fails but I had to do both my front all in all I think I only had 600 in material a lot cheaper then a upholstery shop but a lot of that work is so so now hope this helps you out

Thanks for the sub!

Not sure of the power rating of the amp would love to see one tested, but it hit a little harder then stock but nothing crazy it would ruffle the mirror a little bit again it’s only a 6.75 in sub, I’m sure with a bigger amp it would hit pretty hard for what it is, I’d check out JL Stealth box for the Tahoe/yukon if you want a major change it goes under the console as well, but all in all I like this project and it fixed my messed up factory sub problem, If I have time to play with it more I’d love to see what more amps would do to it but I have the stealth box back behind the seat now so they both complement each other well so I have no complaints with the current setup have a video on that as well if you want to check it out

I have both check out my other videos

Appreciate it, it was more of curiosity/fun project and to see what would happen, iv always been interested in messing with these systems

Appreciate it, yeah if you get 2ohm you’ll be good my door speakers are made by infinity think they are rated at 2.5 ohms

@QS_TIPS hell anything would be better than those made out of paper shizzz called door speakers. I really wish there was a cheaper way to tie in aftermarket android head unit without needing the $100 data can bus box for steering wheel buttons and xm/On-star. Not like I could ever hookup the On-star being 1990s technology. Barely able to send data. But definitely can't now. WTF 2G TECH

Yeah I wasn’t impressed with this pac module had problems with one and if you go to the bad reviews it’s not to hot but there is only two company’s with a module on the market so hands are tied I was doing research on how to by-bass all the bs and just have steering wheel controls but just called it good after I tried a new module didn’t have any issue with that one but you loose the low frequencies for the Bose amp if you got that route

Hell yeah appreciate it man

Check out my JL Box Video found a good deal on market place

A follower recommended it but iv never done it on a ported box myself id feel like it would blow out

Appreciate it! To me it’s a brand new truck now a lot of people don’t get it

Appreciate it Means A lot Thank You!

Just was trying to use what I had lol the apoxy worked really well