Heat at the battery cable is caused by resistance. Resistance is caused by dirt, corrosion, or looses connection. When you cut the rubber boot off the cable the corrosion was pretty evident. I would suggest replacing the cables. The connection blocks you said you didn’t want to mess with also look pretty suspect so it would probably be a good idea to replace them as well.
Get yourself a thermal imager. Best tool for troubleshooting, engine, hydraulic and looking for poor connections. Crank the starter to allow the poor connection to heat up. Then use the imager to find the heat from resistance. Hope this helps. Great content
That corrosion you see on the battery cable I see regularly on boats kept in a salt water environment. Once the salty water intrudes the battery cables, it climbs thru the cable rotting the copper out. Its a green and white color and the copper gets covered in this powdery stuff and becomes brittle. Salt and copper do not mix and because of this corrosion, it creates weaker wires and weaker connections. That's why the battery terminal is hot, bad connectivity. A temp fix is clean the battery terminal and cable ends, use dielectric grease to cover the cable end and re-attach. Dielectric grease will help fend off corrosion for a longer period of time and give better connectivity. Best fix, just replace the cables. Clean copper, clean start, no heating of the battery terminals or cables. Pending on severity, I have replaced several cables. New cables reduce the risk of a fire or battery terminals melting because of corrosion/bad connection.
Sounds like at 1m, there should be something more than a German Shepard getting a tractor ride. Zach needs to put some new promotional merch on sale to celebrate a huge goal.
@@diamondjim7560 something more? That dog has been patiently waiting for a ride in that damn tractor for a long time now. Fuck new merch to celebrate. I want to see Ana getting her ass up in that tractor
I mentioned sometime ago clean and shine all your connections!! You found the issue w the corrosion. You will fight battery issues until you change the battery cables. I would not replace the starter until after you changes the cables. You are learning!! Good work!
Same. Bad cables could kill those batteries and you don't want that. I just spent 180 on 1 battery for my JD B so I can only imagine those were 250 to 280 a piece
Hiya Zack. At least two people have already correctly replied that the heat at your terminals is caused by resistance and they give very good advice on how to resolve that issue if that is the case. It makes the battery seem flat when in actual fact it is not. Another consideration to consider is: The connection between the battery terminal and the cells inside the battery might also have corroded or come loose which can also cause resistance. It is extremely dangerous. It can an has caused fires. Tip: If you want to purchase a second hand battery, ask them to do a load test or a CCA test in front of you. Then again, they say the battery was reconditioned (Supposedly), but it is after a second hand reconditioned battery, things can go wrong with it after sale. I recommend, just buy new batteries and dispense with the bother.
Damn Zach for being a farm truck I sure do appreciate the attention to detail you put into it. I work on trucks for a living and don't see near the attention to detail that should be taking place in the shop I work at. Nice job.
G'day Zach, I'm a bit late to the party, just a tip with your tension wrench, place your hands in the middle of the knurled handle when you tension, beleive it or not shortening your grip and reducing the length of the handle reduces the actual torque applied to the nut and increases your effort, 6 inches makes a big difference (so she said) ✌️😁
9:30- had a similar thing happen, steel wheel rusted to hub. Beat on it, heated it, threw diesel fuel on it, no luck. Finally left lug nuts 1 turn loose, put heavy paint on so they wouldn't fall off, drove around over big bumps for 3 days. Finally popped loose!
Hay Zack, hope you see this, it will help you next time you need to remove your wheels. On all our trucks with aluminum wheels we had a neoprene spacer. You put it on between the wheel and the steel drum to prevent the electrolyses that basically welds the aluminum wheel to the steel drum. You should have one on each hub unless you have steel inner wheels on the rear axles in which case it should be between the steel and aluminum wheels.
That thing with pulling on the wheel with the strap behind the quad. I would never do it. If the wheel releases suddenly we could wind up never seeing another MF video. Straps like that hold a lot of energy. Especially when he took a run at it. If you must force a wheel off in such a manner, you want to either use prying of some kind, or the hammer he eventually switched to. Don't use straps. I want to see many many more MF vids. And I want Zack to have all his parts intact and in good shape.
Zach, check your starter solenoids. When they go bad they will drain the batteries down to nothing. The solenoid will get a pitted contact and develop carbon pits on it's surface making starting nearly impossible.
When you have any electrical circuit - where you have resistance the by product of current flow is heat. So, where there is a heated joint, there is something there not allowing current flow (electrical flow) so that is where you start. We use infrared cameras and go thru electrical panels and look for hot spots just to prevent things like that happening.
Suggestion would be to change the positive and negative battery cables from the starter to the batteries. You likely have corrosion inside the cable. Also charge each battery separately or if boosting place the charger cables across ALL batteries. So the neg on the first one and the positive on the 3rd one to ensure all 3 are being charged. Check to make sure you have shunt cables between the batteries as well
As a 20+ year diesel mechanic is entertaining at the least to watch others, but i to applaud your excellent effort. But after seeing those cables I agree with others here that they definitely need to be replaced. Also your wheels are " hub pilot" wheels meaning the lip on the hub and the hole in the center of the wheel are what center them, torque the nuts to 550 ftlbs.
Heat is caused by resistance, and resistance usually means corrosion. Clean the terminals with a wire brush, and spray them with a passivating/ preventative compound. Won't stop it, but it will slow it down. Edit: clean the terminals on the starter, too.
Hey just an important tip, you never want to put antiseize on a wheel stud. Antiseize will give you a false torque. You can put it on the hub if you want but never the studs
I used to work for a trailer manufacturer and was in charge of plumbing and wiring trailers. I also had to put wheels and tires on 2, 3, 4 axle trailers. My boss made this lever that had bearings on the ends so you could spin the wheel and also pick the tire up and get it on the lugs. Worked slick.
Battery disconnect switch. Turn off, walk away until you need to go, whenever. Otherwise, just keep on grumbling about batteries. Best wishes from the far North.
I must say that was a very unique ride on the struggle bus. I was waiting for the hub, the steering assembly and the steering wheel to come off with that strap as the truck comes off the jack. Glad you got it (it gets personal). Those wheels look amazing. Well worth the effort.
2:32 Get a clamp on ammeter. If it's not drawing high current at the battery when you attempt to start, you've got a bad wiring connection on the way to the starter ... or the starter has high internal resistance. And of course most farmers have discovered battery disconnects...just in case there's leakage of any kind while sitting unused.
Zach, install a cutout switch so that you are not draining the batteries so much. I had to do that on my boat as it was doing the same thing. After I installed the switch, no problems.
Battery Tender is a good trickle charger, maintainer. Been using them for several years now. Batteries seem to last longer and at today’s prices the payback for the battery tender is fairly quick.
At 17:50, I didn't recognize Onyx voice. His voice is changing. Also, at the end of the video, I was reminded of my mother calling me on the phone after having the oil and filter changed on her car. " Lar, I can feel such a difference in the car. It drives and rides so much better."
Just a note, you should re-torque your nuts after your first load. you can use your big air gun until it bangs the first time. You might not want to torque to 550lb, or you might end up breaking the studs when you change your tires next time (if they are on for years like most farm wheels). Also, if you didn't put the plastic anti corrosion discs on before you mounted the tire you might regret the corrosion the aluminum and steel will make.
As a heavy truck tech, I can confirm Zach is not a heavy truck tech lol. A+ for effort and not giving up on that stuck wheel lol. Definitely a dangerous way of going at that wheel though, OSHA just had a stroke watching you do that with a quad and a strap lol. That battery cable is getting hot because it is corroded somewhere causing high resistance. That is likely your voltage draw as well, which is why that truck kills a new set of batteries in no time. I'd start with replacing those cables and cleaning up anywhere you see a battery cable connection point before replacing the starter. Even if it's a smaller gauge wire, it could cause you these issues. A wire can carry the voltage needed but not the amperage sometimes meaning it just can't carry the load that it needs to, like turning the starter over fast enough to start the engine. Honestly, I think your best bet would be to take it to a shop you trust and have them make you new cables for it, clean up all other connection points and they can clean up that rats nest of cables in the battery box as well. Those wheels turned out pretty damn good too and I'm sure those headlights will be a lot better than the factory ones.
wheels look awesome, one thing i use and is used a lot in the UK for wheels is Copper grease. really helps with wheels sticking to hubs. nice application of Copper grease then wheel on and hopefully makes it easier t get off in the future.
Zack, replace all of the battery cables and that will solve your issues. Former electrical specialist mechanic speaking here. No charge for you. Live your videos. Ron
I recommend a poly ring to go between the rims of the truck and the drum, since one is steel and the other is aluminum you get a dissimilar metal corrosion which basically speeds up the corrosion process and corrodes them together, that ring should make the wheels easier to come off
Make sure your ground to frame is clean. I always used paint on every battery connection after they are cleaned and tightened. This keeps moisture connections. I owned and maintained my trucks for many years.
Finally!! Been waiting too long on a new video. The truck is looking great. Also Zach, or Mrs. MF'er, great job on the new intro and outro clips, making the background black instead of white, it'll make watching these videos first thing in the morning or right before bed way better.
A low voltage charger is also called a battery tender. They’re very useful for when you want to keep your vehicle battery/ies topped off before you start it again.
Hey Zach….couple things..I definitely enjoy your videos…if I can offer any helpful advice in regards to your truck. Invest in a good wheel dolly…they are a back saver and way less difficult than trying to lift tires up when trying to take them off….especially for trailer tires. Also like others have mentioned and I’m sure you know…good clean tight connections are definitely helpful and good cables for sure. I’ve found over the years that if new batteries don’t do the trick….change your starter. A new 39 MT starter will make a world of difference when you go to twist the tail of that Cat. Spins way faster and wayyyy lighter than the old 42 MT starters. Best of luck! Keep up the great videos!
Hi Zack, My shop puts plastic rim protectors between the aluminum rim and the steel hubs. These are a thin sheets of plastic that fits over the 10-studs and will cut the electrolysis between the steel and the aluminum. It will save the sledge hammer swinging! We put them on all the trucks with aluminum rims... including the new chassis we get from the factory! Love the content.... I'm hooked!
Zach, I always see you having confusion with finding the right hydraulic hoses for the right remotes especially when you have a bunch of them on an implement. Get some zip ties in a bunch of colours (if you have coloured remotes get those colours), then for each pair of hoses put one zip tie on the input hose and two zip ties on the return using the same colour - then you will know which way around they go just by looking at the zip ties and if you have coloured remotes use the same colour of zip ties on those pairs of hoses as the remote has, next time you go to hook up it'll be a whole load easier.
He has mentioned a dozen+ times that he has the stuff to do it. I think he should save doing it for a video when he hits 1.5mil subs (odds are good it will take that long to actually get around to doing it anyways lol)
The wheels are looking Amazing...Those wheel covers that don't fit on the drive wheels may fit one of the other two trucks... Do all of the farms tractors and semi trucks have battery disconnect switches on them... If not you may wanna make a wise investment and install disconnects on everything It would certainly alleviate many headaches and lots of stress in the days an years to come by not always having dead batteries in something... Keep up the Great Work....Thanx for sharing...And hope you and your family have an Awesome Weekend... Andy.....Southeast Missouri...
For future Zach, get yourself a long breaker bar with a bent end to get up under the tire, and long enough so your not bent half way over and can have some leverage, that way you can pick the tire up and pull or pick it up and align it better. I've seen the mechanics at shops for my company do tires quite quickly this way. Otherwise. Those wheels look sharp
That truck looks brand new after the buff. The wheels look inceredible too. It'd be great if these new batteries last for a while. 7K until Anna gets to ride, let's go. Get sub'd already folks
I would definitely check for a parasitic battery draw when that truck is sitting, the reason why one battery would be hotter than the other is that one of the three batteries is junk, and the others were having to pick up the slack.
DeoxIT is a miracle juice, but a bit expensive for battery terminals. For those, get the 2 little CRC cans, terminal cleaner and terminal protector. Use the cleaner to knock back the corrosion on the terminals, and then the protector once you have the connections all put together. Really soak on the terminal protector as it makes a coating to protect the wires.
Nice video Zach. Nice too see you torquing wheels and doing the right thing. If you have too put a tire assembly on again put your left foot under the tire and use a bar on the other side. Lifts right up and gives you some wiggle too line up the studs.
Likely noted by others, but I am not scrolling through 1,856 comments to confirm. NEXT TIME, when changing outside duals, you don't need the jack. Lay a 2x4 down and drive/back onto it. The outer tire will be off the ground. IF YOU'RE GOOD, you can even change out a blown tire while leaving the wheel mounted to the truck using this method. I really enjoy your videos, the next generation learning to combine and run grain wagon is my favorite - reminds me of growing up on my farm, except we had ear corn to deal with. Blessings and be safe.
You probably know this, Zach. But to keep the wheels from being stuck like that put anti-seize on the back side of the wheel where it goes against the hub. Never had an issue since I've started doing that.
Hey Zach one tool you won't regret getting is a dead blow sled hammer so you can hit those aluminum wheels. My dad and uncle have one for the Ford 1 ton aluminum wheels and for the semi truck wheels as they are the most common to get stuck on. They are mechanics for their day job and it was a night and day difference for them plus it doesn't wreck the rim. Hope to catch you at the track again this summer.
The problem with high resistance battery connections is that they allow the battery to be discharged, but not fully charged. On your old batteries, trickle charge, then load test, those might not be bad with all that corrosion. Hint: before you disconnect the batteries, take a couple of pictures or make a map drawing of all the battery cables. Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
Zach just a warning the higher the CCA on the battery the more plates that are in it. Those plates are closer together and when heated up (from charging or big amp loads) they can warp, if they touch together the battery is ruined.
On our farm, when we have equipment that drain batteries when sitting over time, we've installed battery disconnect switches and mornings are now much less stressful. Saves hours and colorful vocabulary...
Zach, we use two crowbars to lift truck wheels onto their hubs. One either side of the tire with the inner end about half the width of the tire, and two foot of lever extending out from the wheel. You hold the top of the tire in with your head, and walk the wheel in with the levers. You can rotate the wheel two align the studs. One more thing... that dusting of rust on the floor after using the wire wheel, is also in your lungs if you did not use a mask. If you can taste it, and if your throat is sore, you have been breathing that rusty dust. It will kill you if you keep doing it, so wear a proper mask.
Sit in a stool, grab two holes about knee height, use your forearms as the lever for your knees, calf raise, and she'll go right on. Also use one large pry bar, set it on the ground center of axle with the tip under the hub, roll tire onto bar, lift bar from handle, slides in easy. Can replace pry bar with lumber.
@@Okayihaveone You can get away with one pry bar and a foot if you have good boots. Wedge your foot under the tire, and use the pry bar to rotate the wheel onto you foot.
A trick to get stuck wheels off that I use is loosen all the lug nuts, then thread them back on until they touch the rim and then back them off just a little bit, maybe half a turn or 1/8" of space between nut and rim. Then set the truck back down on the ground and drive forward and back hitting the breaks and this should work to break the seal. For front steer wheels sometimes all you need to do is turn the wheels left and right and you can feel them break loose. With the trucks weight on them of course.
You should run airline around your entire shop with extra hoses on reels so you can use air anywhere in your shop. 7 more subscribers until Anna gets a ride in the tractor. You should also replace all of the tail lights, marker lights, turn signal lights, reverse light and interior lights with LED at some point. And when you are finished with the truck, you should try to do 1 trailer to go with this truck and shine it up as well. A shined up truck should have a shined up trailer to go with it.
Just a couple things. First what oil are you using? Depending on your summer season high temps, a 10w30 would be many times better choice than 15w40. Second, battery cables wear out also. Corrosion often will follow the copper lead inside the insulation where you won't realize because it cannot be seen.
I'm not a tire professional but I've been a truck driver for 22 years and changed a few tires. However, I was screaming at my phone when I saw you getting ready to put anti-seize on the studs! Don't do that, dude. Also, invest in a couple tire spoons...makes it much easier to manipulate the wheel onto the hub. Great content! Keep it up!
On your batteries a bad connection loose or corroded will make a lot of heat ware as those with a solid connection do not change temperature or vary little
Quote of the video: " well, I couldn't stop in time to make the driveway, but I'm not in the ditch....." It is genuinely hard to believe that passes for "normal" in your climes.....!
High CCA #'s are your friend, corrosion & swollen cables creates heat and resistance. The wheels look great. I used to do mine by hand with a polishing wheel on a buffer, the tanks are a biotch! The new building looks great! love the overhead door. Do you think you'll ever pour concrete in the new building? Keep up the great content!
Just wondering if you've tried a parasitic drain tester on your truck's batteries. Pretty cheap on Amazon and it works to either confirm or rule out the possibility of a parasitic drain on all your trucks.
Zach I know you got a lot of good comments already on your battery cables, but here's another tip. After replacing the cables (they are corroded) grease all your connections with Vaseline. Both sides of the lugs, the battery terminals, and the bolts. It's messy but it keeps all my batteries from corroding. Been doing it for decades after an old mechanic showed me. I've tried all kinds of sprays, coatings, and even dielectric grease, but Vaseline works best. Thanks for all your hard work 🚜
25:50 A bad connection will be hot. It has higher resistance (R) than a good connection. The heat is proportional to the current (I) squared times the resistance (R). Thus, if you have a higher resistance you're going to get more heat. A good connection should give no heat at all. A clamp on ammeter can take a lot of the guess work out. Also, a thermo camera is also very useful. They're getting cheaper every day.
Feels like Jeff Foxworthy ... "You might be a Millennial Farmer if, you use one vehicle to remove the tire on another vehicle" Thanks for all the great videos
Heat at the battery cable is caused by resistance. Resistance is caused by dirt, corrosion, or looses connection. When you cut the rubber boot off the cable the corrosion was pretty evident. I would suggest replacing the cables. The connection blocks you said you didn’t want to mess with also look pretty suspect so it would probably be a good idea to replace them as well.
Came here to say this. The hotter ones are the bad ones. Recommend you cut the connector off and put on a new one - even with the new batteries!
ditto.
Yup
defiantly need to to replace those cables. Just you brushing the corrosion off and the wire flaking off shows that they are bad
Agreed, hopefully he will get the cables and connection blocks taken care of before they cause damage to his new batteries.
So close to a million subs.... I vote Anna should get to ride in every piece of equipment and twice in combines. She has been more than patient!
I agree!!!!
I also agree
@@farmshoffman8475 i also agree
Agree # 4
I agree
The neighbor definitely noticed he was just to jealous to say anything! Those bad boys are shining
13:53 one of the best songs ever in the background
Get yourself a thermal imager. Best tool for troubleshooting, engine, hydraulic and looking for poor connections. Crank the starter to allow the poor connection to heat up. Then use the imager to find the heat from resistance. Hope this helps. Great content
He already found the heat source it's the next step he is asking
ONLY 7 K more to go ANNA!!!!❤ ❤❤❤ 🐶 🚜 😊😊much love from central Massachusetts!!
That corrosion you see on the battery cable I see regularly on boats kept in a salt water environment. Once the salty water intrudes the battery cables, it climbs thru the cable rotting the copper out. Its a green and white color and the copper gets covered in this powdery stuff and becomes brittle. Salt and copper do not mix and because of this corrosion, it creates weaker wires and weaker connections. That's why the battery terminal is hot, bad connectivity. A temp fix is clean the battery terminal and cable ends, use dielectric grease to cover the cable end and re-attach. Dielectric grease will help fend off corrosion for a longer period of time and give better connectivity. Best fix, just replace the cables. Clean copper, clean start, no heating of the battery terminals or cables. Pending on severity, I have replaced several cables. New cables reduce the risk of a fire or battery terminals melting because of corrosion/bad connection.
Replace the battery cables, and all the connections - spray them down with battery terminal anti corrosive stuff.. - cover them with the rubber boots.
It looks like Ana will have a ride in the Deere soon, great job!🎉
Looking forward to it, only 7k more.
Y’all beat me to the comment about the soon-to-be achieved milestone!
Sounds like at 1m, there should be something more than a German Shepard getting a tractor ride. Zach needs to put some new promotional merch on sale to celebrate a huge goal.
@@diamondjim7560 something more? That dog has been patiently waiting for a ride in that damn tractor for a long time now. Fuck new merch to celebrate. I want to see Ana getting her ass up in that tractor
@@diamondjim7560 wrong
I'm happy that you like the spray I gave you zac
I mentioned sometime ago clean and shine all your connections!! You found the issue w the corrosion. You will fight battery issues until you change the battery cables. I would not replace the starter until after you changes the cables. You are learning!! Good work!
I totally agree
Same. Bad cables could kill those batteries and you don't want that. I just spent 180 on 1 battery for my JD B so I can only imagine those were 250 to 280 a piece
@@tractorboy31 ends up like around $1k a lot of the time for most people
When you bumped the impact with your boot and jumped. I felt that exact moment in my soul. Been there a time or several myself. 😂
Hiya Zack. At least two people have already correctly replied that the heat at your terminals is caused by resistance and they give very good advice on how to resolve that issue if that is the case. It makes the battery seem flat when in actual fact it is not. Another consideration to consider is: The connection between the battery terminal and the cells inside the battery might also have corroded or come loose which can also cause resistance. It is extremely dangerous. It can an has caused fires.
Tip: If you want to purchase a second hand battery, ask them to do a load test or a CCA test in front of you. Then again, they say the battery was reconditioned (Supposedly), but it is after a second hand reconditioned battery, things can go wrong with it after sale.
I recommend, just buy new batteries and dispense with the bother.
Damn Zach for being a farm truck I sure do appreciate the attention to detail you put into it. I work on trucks for a living and don't see near the attention to detail that should be taking place in the shop I work at. Nice job.
A pallet jack works well for changing tires and it's a dual purpose machine you can also use it for moving things like pallets 😀
You mean a pallet back is used for moving pallets? What will they think of next. :)
G'day Zach, I'm a bit late to the party, just a tip with your tension wrench, place your hands in the middle of the knurled handle when you tension, beleive it or not shortening your grip and reducing the length of the handle reduces the actual torque applied to the nut and increases your effort, 6 inches makes a big difference (so she said) ✌️😁
Hey Zack, when lifting the tire from the rim, turn your back to the tire and lift behind your back on the outer rim. Comes right off.
Very true, a shovel helps under the tire as well, to lift and adjusting to the studs. Thats what we use .
It also save on your lower back.
9:30- had a similar thing happen, steel wheel rusted to hub. Beat on it, heated it, threw diesel fuel on it, no luck. Finally left lug nuts 1 turn loose, put heavy paint on so they wouldn't fall off, drove around over big bumps for 3 days. Finally popped loose!
Hay Zack, hope you see this, it will help you next time you need to remove your wheels. On all our trucks with aluminum wheels we had a neoprene spacer. You put it on between the wheel and the steel drum to prevent the electrolyses that basically welds the aluminum wheel to the steel drum. You should have one on each hub unless you have steel inner wheels on the rear axles in which case it should be between the steel and aluminum wheels.
Seems to convenient, I like playing with anti seize
That thing with pulling on the wheel with the strap behind the quad. I would never do it. If the wheel releases suddenly we could wind up never seeing another MF video. Straps like that hold a lot of energy. Especially when he took a run at it.
If you must force a wheel off in such a manner, you want to either use prying of some kind, or the hammer he eventually switched to. Don't use straps. I want to see many many more MF vids. And I want Zack to have all his parts intact and in good shape.
@@acesonflush346 Shit spreads faster than covid on a cruise ship
@@DanEvens-tb1tg ratchet straps don’t hold energy
Zach, check your starter solenoids. When they go bad they will drain the batteries down to nothing. The solenoid will get a pitted contact and develop carbon pits on it's surface making starting nearly impossible.
When you have any electrical circuit - where you have resistance the by product of current flow is heat. So, where there is a heated joint, there is something there not allowing current flow (electrical flow) so that is where you start. We use infrared cameras and go thru electrical panels and look for hot spots just to prevent things like that happening.
14:00 That song is Golden!
Suggestion would be to change the positive and negative battery cables from the starter to the batteries. You likely have corrosion inside the cable. Also charge each battery separately or if boosting place the charger cables across ALL batteries. So the neg on the first one and the positive on the 3rd one to ensure all 3 are being charged.
Check to make sure you have shunt cables between the batteries as well
As a 20+ year diesel mechanic is entertaining at the least to watch others, but i to applaud your excellent effort. But after seeing those cables I agree with others here that they definitely need to be replaced. Also your wheels are " hub pilot" wheels meaning the lip on the hub and the hole in the center of the wheel are what center them, torque the nuts to 550 ftlbs.
Heat is caused by resistance, and resistance usually means corrosion. Clean the terminals with a wire brush, and spray them with a passivating/ preventative compound. Won't stop it, but it will slow it down.
Edit: clean the terminals on the starter, too.
Those polished rims looking great
Hey just an important tip, you never want to put antiseize on a wheel stud. Antiseize will give you a false torque. You can put it on the hub if you want but never the studs
I’ve e seen too many lost wheels due to anti seize. Just oil the threads
I used to work for a trailer manufacturer and was in charge of plumbing and wiring trailers. I also had to put wheels and tires on 2, 3, 4 axle trailers. My boss made this lever that had bearings on the ends so you could spin the wheel and also pick the tire up and get it on the lugs. Worked slick.
Zach check your battery cables for corrosion and the engine/frame grounds for rust.
Better yet.. add another new ground
Battery disconnect switch. Turn off, walk away until you need to go, whenever.
Otherwise, just keep on grumbling about batteries.
Best wishes from the far North.
@@carlthor91he already has one
Check starter draw and battery cable voltage drops
Cables go bad inside with age also loose voltage for high draw starter
@@carlthor91 would you believe me if I told you we have them and they don't make any difference?
great fun video THNKS FOR TURNING THE TRACTOR OFF BEFORE ATTCHING THE PTO. we all need to stay safe and go home to our families.
Check your battery cables. If they are corroded, they will show high resistance with an Amp meter. If so replace with good cables.
Battery terminal corrosion makes hot under starter loads. Thermal camera is useful. Laser non-contact thermometer is Very Useful! 26:23
I must say that was a very unique ride on the struggle bus. I was waiting for the hub, the steering assembly and the steering wheel to come off with that strap as the truck comes off the jack. Glad you got it (it gets personal). Those wheels look amazing. Well worth the effort.
2:32 Get a clamp on ammeter. If it's not drawing high current at the battery when you attempt to start, you've got a bad wiring connection on the way to the starter ... or the starter has high internal resistance. And of course most farmers have discovered battery disconnects...just in case there's leakage of any kind while sitting unused.
20:54 Ah yes, I remember the "daily workout" when I was a truck shop tech. 3 axles, 20 lugs per axle, 600 ft-lbs per lug
Took me back to being a tech for a fleet. 1 truck was a slow day for tires.
Wheels look amazing. How cool is that@
The rims on the semi look really good
Man that truck looks real nice those wheels are sweet
Zach, install a cutout switch so that you are not draining the batteries so much. I had to do that on my boat as it was doing the same thing. After I installed the switch, no problems.
He's stated in the past he already has a cutoff switch
Yeb a cut out switch helps… But also get a trickle charger to keep them in shape!
Battery Tender is a good trickle charger, maintainer. Been using them for several years now. Batteries seem to last longer and at today’s prices the payback for the battery tender is fairly quick.
At 17:50, I didn't recognize Onyx voice. His voice is changing. Also, at the end of the video, I was reminded of my mother calling me on the phone after having the oil and filter changed on her car. " Lar, I can feel such a difference in the car. It drives and rides so much better."
Just a note, you should re-torque your nuts after your first load. you can use your big air gun until it bangs the first time. You might not want to torque to 550lb, or you might end up breaking the studs when you change your tires next time (if they are on for years like most farm wheels). Also, if you didn't put the plastic anti corrosion discs on before you mounted the tire you might regret the corrosion the aluminum and steel will make.
That's what she said...
As a heavy truck tech, I can confirm Zach is not a heavy truck tech lol. A+ for effort and not giving up on that stuck wheel lol. Definitely a dangerous way of going at that wheel though, OSHA just had a stroke watching you do that with a quad and a strap lol. That battery cable is getting hot because it is corroded somewhere causing high resistance. That is likely your voltage draw as well, which is why that truck kills a new set of batteries in no time. I'd start with replacing those cables and cleaning up anywhere you see a battery cable connection point before replacing the starter. Even if it's a smaller gauge wire, it could cause you these issues. A wire can carry the voltage needed but not the amperage sometimes meaning it just can't carry the load that it needs to, like turning the starter over fast enough to start the engine. Honestly, I think your best bet would be to take it to a shop you trust and have them make you new cables for it, clean up all other connection points and they can clean up that rats nest of cables in the battery box as well. Those wheels turned out pretty damn good too and I'm sure those headlights will be a lot better than the factory ones.
Also, use a long pry bar or semi truck tire iron for putting those wheels on. Will save your back a lot of hurting the next day.
wheels look awesome, one thing i use and is used a lot in the UK for wheels is Copper grease. really helps with wheels sticking to hubs. nice application of Copper grease then wheel on and hopefully makes it easier t get off in the future.
Zack, replace all of the battery cables and that will solve your issues. Former electrical specialist mechanic speaking here. No charge for you. Live your videos. Ron
That Kennworth is truly a beauty now! Insane what polishing can achieve
I recommend a poly ring to go between the rims of the truck and the drum, since one is steel and the other is aluminum you get a dissimilar metal corrosion which basically speeds up the corrosion process and corrodes them together, that ring should make the wheels easier to come off
As for the stuck tire. Stick a block between tire and frame and use the power steering to push it off
I like that idea
If it starts… 😂
@MillennialFarmer your way prob generates more views and interactions though. Haha
Thanks for the tip!
Put antisieze on the face of the hub to prevent the wheels from getting stuck to the hub. Grease works well too.
Nice to see someone take pride in their equipment!
Make sure your ground to frame is clean. I always used paint on every battery connection after they are cleaned and tightened. This keeps moisture connections. I owned and maintained my trucks for many years.
Truck looks sweet!
Finally!! Been waiting too long on a new video. The truck is looking great. Also Zach, or Mrs. MF'er, great job on the new intro and outro clips, making the background black instead of white, it'll make watching these videos first thing in the morning or right before bed way better.
A low voltage charger is also called a battery tender. They’re very useful for when you want to keep your vehicle battery/ies topped off before you start it again.
Hey Zach….couple things..I definitely enjoy your videos…if I can offer any helpful advice in regards to your truck. Invest in a good wheel dolly…they are a back saver and way less difficult than trying to lift tires up when trying to take them off….especially for trailer tires. Also like others have mentioned and I’m sure you know…good clean tight connections are definitely helpful and good cables for sure. I’ve found over the years that if new batteries don’t do the trick….change your starter. A new 39 MT starter will make a world of difference when you go to twist the tail of that Cat. Spins way faster and wayyyy lighter than the old 42 MT starters. Best of luck! Keep up the great videos!
Hi Zack, My shop puts plastic rim protectors between the aluminum rim and the steel hubs. These are a thin sheets of plastic that fits over the 10-studs and will cut the electrolysis between the steel and the aluminum. It will save the sledge hammer swinging! We put them on all the trucks with aluminum rims... including the new chassis we get from the factory! Love the content.... I'm hooked!
Zach, I always see you having confusion with finding the right hydraulic hoses for the right remotes especially when you have a bunch of them on an implement.
Get some zip ties in a bunch of colours (if you have coloured remotes get those colours), then for each pair of hoses put one zip tie on the input hose and two zip ties on the return using the same colour - then you will know which way around they go just by looking at the zip ties and if you have coloured remotes use the same colour of zip ties on those pairs of hoses as the remote has, next time you go to hook up it'll be a whole load easier.
He has mentioned a dozen+ times that he has the stuff to do it. I think he should save doing it for a video when he hits 1.5mil subs (odds are good it will take that long to actually get around to doing it anyways lol)
Your kids are growing and learning the best hard life there is....
My good friend's father, a mechanic all his life, had a saying, "Only a rich man can afford cheap things." Point proven once again.
The wheels are looking Amazing...Those wheel covers that don't fit on the drive wheels may fit one of the other two trucks...
Do all of the farms tractors and semi trucks have battery disconnect switches on them...
If not you may wanna make a wise investment and install disconnects on everything
It would certainly alleviate many headaches and lots of stress in the days an years to come by not always having dead batteries in something...
Keep up the Great Work....Thanx for sharing...And hope you and your family have an Awesome Weekend...
Andy.....Southeast Missouri...
Let's make it 1 million subscriber👍👍
Those lights are awsome iv been putting led in everything I own rims look good
For future Zach, get yourself a long breaker bar with a bent end to get up under the tire, and long enough so your not bent half way over and can have some leverage, that way you can pick the tire up and pull or pick it up and align it better. I've seen the mechanics at shops for my company do tires quite quickly this way. Otherwise. Those wheels look sharp
That truck looks brand new after the buff. The wheels look inceredible too. It'd be great if these new batteries last for a while. 7K until Anna gets to ride, let's go. Get sub'd already folks
If you don't find the fitting hub covers, just paint the hubs satin black.
In that combo it could still look great.
@@TFT-bp8zk thanks 😆
Your one liners and movie quotes are why I keep watching. Dry humor in its finest form!
I would definitely check for a parasitic battery draw when that truck is sitting, the reason why one battery would be hotter than the other is that one of the three batteries is junk, and the others were having to pick up the slack.
Now all you need is some 7 inch stacks
Zach. Loving your content sir! Keep them coming, you and your family are legends. Thanks for sharing. Will
DeoxIT is a miracle juice, but a bit expensive for battery terminals. For those, get the 2 little CRC cans, terminal cleaner and terminal protector. Use the cleaner to knock back the corrosion on the terminals, and then the protector once you have the connections all put together. Really soak on the terminal protector as it makes a coating to protect the wires.
Nice video Zach. Nice too see you torquing wheels and doing the right thing. If you have too put a tire assembly on again put your left foot under the tire and use a bar on the other side. Lifts right up and gives you some wiggle too line up the studs.
Likely noted by others, but I am not scrolling through 1,856 comments to confirm. NEXT TIME, when changing outside duals, you don't need the jack. Lay a 2x4 down and drive/back onto it. The outer tire will be off the ground. IF YOU'RE GOOD, you can even change out a blown tire while leaving the wheel mounted to the truck using this method. I really enjoy your videos, the next generation learning to combine and run grain wagon is my favorite - reminds me of growing up on my farm, except we had ear corn to deal with. Blessings and be safe.
You probably know this, Zach. But to keep the wheels from being stuck like that put anti-seize on the back side of the wheel where it goes against the hub. Never had an issue since I've started doing that.
Getting mighty fancy with that T-800, but it sure does look better
Get battery isolator for all the semis and older stuff.
Hey Zach one tool you won't regret getting is a dead blow sled hammer so you can hit those aluminum wheels. My dad and uncle have one for the Ford 1 ton aluminum wheels and for the semi truck wheels as they are the most common to get stuck on. They are mechanics for their day job and it was a night and day difference for them plus it doesn't wreck the rim. Hope to catch you at the track again this summer.
Really wanting to see more of the racing on the other channel. Onix is looking like he is following dad's talent behind the wheel.
Coming up this summer!
@@MillennialFarmer it's the starter
@@zacharystrasser8138 I had a similar issue with my truck.
The problem with high resistance battery connections is that they allow the battery to be discharged, but not fully charged. On your old batteries, trickle charge, then load test, those might not be bad with all that corrosion.
Hint: before you disconnect the batteries, take a couple of pictures or make a map drawing of all the battery cables.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Zach just a warning the higher the CCA on the battery the more plates that are in it. Those plates are closer together and when heated up (from charging or big amp loads) they can warp, if they touch together the battery is ruined.
Also a "fiber" or poly washer between the aluminum wheel and the steel drum will prevent galvanic corrosion and make your next removal easier
bullocks , the plates are isolated by polyesther matting..
This rarely happens and if it does it’s with cheap batteries, never ever heard of it happening with modern batteries
Always feels good to get everything things shiny!
Good video was fun to watch. Wondering how long you can go before you polish fuel tanks
On our farm, when we have equipment that drain batteries when sitting over time, we've installed battery disconnect switches and mornings are now much less stressful. Saves hours and colorful vocabulary...
Zach, we use two crowbars to lift truck wheels onto their hubs. One either side of the tire with the inner end about half the width of the tire, and two foot of lever extending out from the wheel. You hold the top of the tire in with your head, and walk the wheel in with the levers. You can rotate the wheel two align the studs. One more thing... that dusting of rust on the floor after using the wire wheel, is also in your lungs if you did not use a mask. If you can taste it, and if your throat is sore, you have been breathing that rusty dust. It will kill you if you keep doing it, so wear a proper mask.
Sit in a stool, grab two holes about knee height, use your forearms as the lever for your knees, calf raise, and she'll go right on.
Also use one large pry bar, set it on the ground center of axle with the tip under the hub, roll tire onto bar, lift bar from handle, slides in easy. Can replace pry bar with lumber.
@@Okayihaveone You can get away with one pry bar and a foot if you have good boots. Wedge your foot under the tire, and use the pry bar to rotate the wheel onto you foot.
Liked for mask to protect from that nasty rust. No clue about truck tires so…
We put Battery cut of switches in all 5 trucks we have and now we don't have hardly any trouble with the battery,have a greatday
A trick to get stuck wheels off that I use is loosen all the lug nuts, then thread them back on until they touch the rim and then back them off just a little bit, maybe half a turn or 1/8" of space between nut and rim. Then set the truck back down on the ground and drive forward and back hitting the breaks and this should work to break the seal.
For front steer wheels sometimes all you need to do is turn the wheels left and right and you can feel them break loose. With the trucks weight on them of course.
My grandpa would loosen the Lugnuts slightly and then drive down a washboard road to break loose so stubborn rims
You should run airline around your entire shop with extra hoses on reels so you can use air anywhere in your shop. 7 more subscribers until Anna gets a ride in the tractor. You should also replace all of the tail lights, marker lights, turn signal lights, reverse light and interior lights with LED at some point. And when you are finished with the truck, you should try to do 1 trailer to go with this truck and shine it up as well. A shined up truck should have a shined up trailer to go with it.
7000
Just a couple things. First what oil are you using? Depending on your summer season high temps, a 10w30 would be many times better choice than 15w40. Second, battery cables wear out also. Corrosion often will follow the copper lead inside the insulation where you won't realize because it cannot be seen.
I'm not a tire professional but I've been a truck driver for 22 years and changed a few tires. However, I was screaming at my phone when I saw you getting ready to put anti-seize on the studs! Don't do that, dude. Also, invest in a couple tire spoons...makes it much easier to manipulate the wheel onto the hub. Great content! Keep it up!
Oh no anti-seize on de nuts. Studs
Not on deez nuts! 😆
These maintenance videos are pretty good I enjoy it
You could add a disconnect . Then you would know if there’s a draw .
He mentioned that he has one. There must be a vampire load somewhere for him to have the batteries draw down with the disconnect turned off.
On your batteries a bad connection loose or corroded will make a lot of heat ware as those with a solid connection do not change temperature or vary little
Great video I can't wait for the next one and the one on Between the rows
Quote of the video: " well, I couldn't stop in time to make the driveway, but I'm not in the ditch....." It is genuinely hard to believe that passes for "normal" in your climes.....!
I think some anti seize on the wheels would help for next time removing!
He did that. When Onyx was standing there.
@@dryroasted5599 he only did the studs. Not the hub
Never ever and I mean EVER put anti seize on wheel studs. You will never have proper torque.
@austin paxman Wasn't talking about on the wheel studs! Just on the back of the wheel anywhere it contacts the stee hub.
High CCA #'s are your friend, corrosion & swollen cables creates heat and resistance. The wheels look great. I used to do mine by hand with a polishing wheel on a buffer, the tanks are a biotch! The new building looks great! love the overhead door. Do you think you'll ever pour concrete in the new building? Keep up the great content!
Great video, I seem to learn more things from your videos than i do at school.
Just wondering if you've tried a parasitic drain tester on your truck's batteries. Pretty cheap on Amazon and it works to either confirm or rule out the possibility of a parasitic drain on all your trucks.
Zach I know you got a lot of good comments already on your battery cables, but here's another tip. After replacing the cables (they are corroded) grease all your connections with Vaseline. Both sides of the lugs, the battery terminals, and the bolts. It's messy but it keeps all my batteries from corroding. Been doing it for decades after an old mechanic showed me. I've tried all kinds of sprays, coatings, and even dielectric grease, but Vaseline works best. Thanks for all your hard work 🚜
25:50 A bad connection will be hot. It has higher resistance (R) than a good connection. The heat is proportional to the current (I) squared times the resistance (R). Thus, if you have a higher resistance you're going to get more heat. A good connection should give no heat at all. A clamp on ammeter can take a lot of the guess work out. Also, a thermo camera is also very useful. They're getting cheaper every day.
God Bless this Farmers wife.
Feels like Jeff Foxworthy ... "You might be a Millennial Farmer if, you use one vehicle to remove the tire on another vehicle" Thanks for all the great videos