This is NOT A HOW TO VIDEO! I Can't Believe it!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.พ. 2023
- Winter truck maintenance is a balancing act. I think it's obvious I'm no truck mechanic. What did I do wrong? #FarmTEDTalk
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Zach Johnson, the “Millennial Farmer” is a 5th-generation farmer who’s spent his life growing, working, and learning on his family’s farm. His wit and dry sense of humor appeal to children and adults alike. A product of the millennial generation, his appreciation of new technology blends with his old-fashioned work ethic, and he offers a unique ability to deliver his message in a way that resonates with lifelong farmers as well as those with no knowledge of agriculture. With growing consumer awareness about where their food comes from, Zach has identified the need for an independent voice from the front lines of agriculture. Zach actively promotes agriculture by sharing his day-to-day experiences in the agriculture world while providing farmer-to-farmer education to help facilitate a collaborative conversation between farmers and the public.
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Edited By: Becky Johnson
Heat at the battery cable is caused by resistance. Resistance is caused by dirt, corrosion, or looses connection. When you cut the rubber boot off the cable the corrosion was pretty evident. I would suggest replacing the cables. The connection blocks you said you didn’t want to mess with also look pretty suspect so it would probably be a good idea to replace them as well.
Came here to say this. The hotter ones are the bad ones. Recommend you cut the connector off and put on a new one - even with the new batteries!
ditto.
Yup
defiantly need to to replace those cables. Just you brushing the corrosion off and the wire flaking off shows that they are bad
Agreed, hopefully he will get the cables and connection blocks taken care of before they cause damage to his new batteries.
So close to a million subs.... I vote Anna should get to ride in every piece of equipment and twice in combines. She has been more than patient!
I agree!!!!
I also agree
@@farmshoffman8475 i also agree
Agree # 4
I agree
Get yourself a thermal imager. Best tool for troubleshooting, engine, hydraulic and looking for poor connections. Crank the starter to allow the poor connection to heat up. Then use the imager to find the heat from resistance. Hope this helps. Great content
He already found the heat source it's the next step he is asking
When you bumped the impact with your boot and jumped. I felt that exact moment in my soul. Been there a time or several myself. 😂
It looks like Ana will have a ride in the Deere soon, great job!🎉
Looking forward to it, only 7k more.
Y’all beat me to the comment about the soon-to-be achieved milestone!
Sounds like at 1m, there should be something more than a German Shepard getting a tractor ride. Zach needs to put some new promotional merch on sale to celebrate a huge goal.
@@diamondjim7560 something more? That dog has been patiently waiting for a ride in that damn tractor for a long time now. Fuck new merch to celebrate. I want to see Ana getting her ass up in that tractor
@@diamondjim7560 wrong
I mentioned sometime ago clean and shine all your connections!! You found the issue w the corrosion. You will fight battery issues until you change the battery cables. I would not replace the starter until after you changes the cables. You are learning!! Good work!
I totally agree
Same. Bad cables could kill those batteries and you don't want that. I just spent 180 on 1 battery for my JD B so I can only imagine those were 250 to 280 a piece
@@tractorboy31 ends up like around $1k a lot of the time for most people
ONLY 7 K more to go ANNA!!!!❤ ❤❤❤ 🐶 🚜 😊😊much love from central Massachusetts!!
The neighbor definitely noticed he was just to jealous to say anything! Those bad boys are shining
A pallet jack works well for changing tires and it's a dual purpose machine you can also use it for moving things like pallets 😀
You mean a pallet back is used for moving pallets? What will they think of next. :)
G'day Zach, I'm a bit late to the party, just a tip with your tension wrench, place your hands in the middle of the knurled handle when you tension, beleive it or not shortening your grip and reducing the length of the handle reduces the actual torque applied to the nut and increases your effort, 6 inches makes a big difference (so she said) ✌️😁
Replace the battery cables, and all the connections - spray them down with battery terminal anti corrosive stuff.. - cover them with the rubber boots.
Damn Zach for being a farm truck I sure do appreciate the attention to detail you put into it. I work on trucks for a living and don't see near the attention to detail that should be taking place in the shop I work at. Nice job.
Zach check your battery cables for corrosion and the engine/frame grounds for rust.
Better yet.. add another new ground
Battery disconnect switch. Turn off, walk away until you need to go, whenever.
Otherwise, just keep on grumbling about batteries.
Best wishes from the far North.
@@carlthor91he already has one
Check starter draw and battery cable voltage drops
Cables go bad inside with age also loose voltage for high draw starter
@@carlthor91 would you believe me if I told you we have them and they don't make any difference?
When you have any electrical circuit - where you have resistance the by product of current flow is heat. So, where there is a heated joint, there is something there not allowing current flow (electrical flow) so that is where you start. We use infrared cameras and go thru electrical panels and look for hot spots just to prevent things like that happening.
Zach, check your starter solenoids. When they go bad they will drain the batteries down to nothing. The solenoid will get a pitted contact and develop carbon pits on it's surface making starting nearly impossible.
I used to work for a trailer manufacturer and was in charge of plumbing and wiring trailers. I also had to put wheels and tires on 2, 3, 4 axle trailers. My boss made this lever that had bearings on the ends so you could spin the wheel and also pick the tire up and get it on the lugs. Worked slick.
I must say that was a very unique ride on the struggle bus. I was waiting for the hub, the steering assembly and the steering wheel to come off with that strap as the truck comes off the jack. Glad you got it (it gets personal). Those wheels look amazing. Well worth the effort.
Check your battery cables. If they are corroded, they will show high resistance with an Amp meter. If so replace with good cables.
Suggestion would be to change the positive and negative battery cables from the starter to the batteries. You likely have corrosion inside the cable. Also charge each battery separately or if boosting place the charger cables across ALL batteries. So the neg on the first one and the positive on the 3rd one to ensure all 3 are being charged.
Check to make sure you have shunt cables between the batteries as well
Zach. Loving your content sir! Keep them coming, you and your family are legends. Thanks for sharing. Will
Finally!! Been waiting too long on a new video. The truck is looking great. Also Zach, or Mrs. MF'er, great job on the new intro and outro clips, making the background black instead of white, it'll make watching these videos first thing in the morning or right before bed way better.
All around great video Zack. Truly an entertaining and enthusiastic attempt in the shop. Got the job done.👍
Hey just an important tip, you never want to put antiseize on a wheel stud. Antiseize will give you a false torque. You can put it on the hub if you want but never the studs
I’ve e seen too many lost wheels due to anti seize. Just oil the threads
I recommend a poly ring to go between the rims of the truck and the drum, since one is steel and the other is aluminum you get a dissimilar metal corrosion which basically speeds up the corrosion process and corrodes them together, that ring should make the wheels easier to come off
wheels look awesome, one thing i use and is used a lot in the UK for wheels is Copper grease. really helps with wheels sticking to hubs. nice application of Copper grease then wheel on and hopefully makes it easier t get off in the future.
Hey Zack, when lifting the tire from the rim, turn your back to the tire and lift behind your back on the outer rim. Comes right off.
Very true, a shovel helps under the tire as well, to lift and adjusting to the studs. Thats what we use .
It also save on your lower back.
Nice video Zach. Nice too see you torquing wheels and doing the right thing. If you have too put a tire assembly on again put your left foot under the tire and use a bar on the other side. Lifts right up and gives you some wiggle too line up the studs.
That Kennworth is truly a beauty now! Insane what polishing can achieve
That corrosion you see on the battery cable I see regularly on boats kept in a salt water environment. Once the salty water intrudes the battery cables, it climbs thru the cable rotting the copper out. Its a green and white color and the copper gets covered in this powdery stuff and becomes brittle. Salt and copper do not mix and because of this corrosion, it creates weaker wires and weaker connections. That's why the battery terminal is hot, bad connectivity. A temp fix is clean the battery terminal and cable ends, use dielectric grease to cover the cable end and re-attach. Dielectric grease will help fend off corrosion for a longer period of time and give better connectivity. Best fix, just replace the cables. Clean copper, clean start, no heating of the battery terminals or cables. Pending on severity, I have replaced several cables. New cables reduce the risk of a fire or battery terminals melting because of corrosion/bad connection.
Hey Zak, Two things. Your KW problem is either the cables or the starter. If cables are old, they corrode and greatly reduce connectivity. Next, I know you struggle with hydraulic hose connections. I solved this by tying colored cable ties to the hose and connector. If you have more connections than colors, code them by using more than one color on a hose.
One time I thought I had a dead battery it ended up being a corroded bolt nut or washer it was just enough to not make connection
great fun video THNKS FOR TURNING THE TRACTOR OFF BEFORE ATTCHING THE PTO. we all need to stay safe and go home to our families.
Your one liners and movie quotes are why I keep watching. Dry humor in its finest form!
Heat is caused by resistance, and resistance usually means corrosion. Clean the terminals with a wire brush, and spray them with a passivating/ preventative compound. Won't stop it, but it will slow it down.
Edit: clean the terminals on the starter, too.
Hay Zack, hope you see this, it will help you next time you need to remove your wheels. On all our trucks with aluminum wheels we had a neoprene spacer. You put it on between the wheel and the steel drum to prevent the electrolyses that basically welds the aluminum wheel to the steel drum. You should have one on each hub unless you have steel inner wheels on the rear axles in which case it should be between the steel and aluminum wheels.
Seems to convenient, I like playing with anti seize
That thing with pulling on the wheel with the strap behind the quad. I would never do it. If the wheel releases suddenly we could wind up never seeing another MF video. Straps like that hold a lot of energy. Especially when he took a run at it.
If you must force a wheel off in such a manner, you want to either use prying of some kind, or the hammer he eventually switched to. Don't use straps. I want to see many many more MF vids. And I want Zack to have all his parts intact and in good shape.
@@acesonflush346 Shit spreads faster than covid on a cruise ship
@@DanEvens-tb1tg ratchet straps don’t hold energy
Nice to see someone take pride in their equipment!
DeoxIT is a miracle juice, but a bit expensive for battery terminals. For those, get the 2 little CRC cans, terminal cleaner and terminal protector. Use the cleaner to knock back the corrosion on the terminals, and then the protector once you have the connections all put together. Really soak on the terminal protector as it makes a coating to protect the wires.
20:54 Ah yes, I remember the "daily workout" when I was a truck shop tech. 3 axles, 20 lugs per axle, 600 ft-lbs per lug
Took me back to being a tech for a fleet. 1 truck was a slow day for tires.
Make sure your ground to frame is clean. I always used paint on every battery connection after they are cleaned and tightened. This keeps moisture connections. I owned and maintained my trucks for many years.
You would definitely benefit from a new high torque starter, and like many others have mentioned new battery cables! The cables do age out due to the amount of use and the elements. You would actually benefit from starting and running the trucks more often even though you don't actually need to run them often.
Happy to see a new video like the ones from the old days, i enjoyed this one, seems unusual to get one of these anymore…thanks
Zach, install a cutout switch so that you are not draining the batteries so much. I had to do that on my boat as it was doing the same thing. After I installed the switch, no problems.
He's stated in the past he already has a cutoff switch
Yeb a cut out switch helps… But also get a trickle charger to keep them in shape!
Battery Tender is a good trickle charger, maintainer. Been using them for several years now. Batteries seem to last longer and at today’s prices the payback for the battery tender is fairly quick.
If you don't find the fitting hub covers, just paint the hubs satin black.
In that combo it could still look great.
@@TFT-bp8zk thanks 😆
For future Zach, get yourself a long breaker bar with a bent end to get up under the tire, and long enough so your not bent half way over and can have some leverage, that way you can pick the tire up and pull or pick it up and align it better. I've seen the mechanics at shops for my company do tires quite quickly this way. Otherwise. Those wheels look sharp
I would definitely check for a parasitic battery draw when that truck is sitting, the reason why one battery would be hotter than the other is that one of the three batteries is junk, and the others were having to pick up the slack.
You missed a perfect Tommy boy reference when you were checking the dirt on your face. When he gets hit with the 2x4.
Not so much here.....or here.......but right here!.
Nope, ship shape!
Hey Zach….couple things..I definitely enjoy your videos…if I can offer any helpful advice in regards to your truck. Invest in a good wheel dolly…they are a back saver and way less difficult than trying to lift tires up when trying to take them off….especially for trailer tires. Also like others have mentioned and I’m sure you know…good clean tight connections are definitely helpful and good cables for sure. I’ve found over the years that if new batteries don’t do the trick….change your starter. A new 39 MT starter will make a world of difference when you go to twist the tail of that Cat. Spins way faster and wayyyy lighter than the old 42 MT starters. Best of luck! Keep up the great videos!
Great video, I seem to learn more things from your videos than i do at school.
Hiya Zack. At least two people have already correctly replied that the heat at your terminals is caused by resistance and they give very good advice on how to resolve that issue if that is the case. It makes the battery seem flat when in actual fact it is not. Another consideration to consider is: The connection between the battery terminal and the cells inside the battery might also have corroded or come loose which can also cause resistance. It is extremely dangerous. It can an has caused fires.
Tip: If you want to purchase a second hand battery, ask them to do a load test or a CCA test in front of you. Then again, they say the battery was reconditioned (Supposedly), but it is after a second hand reconditioned battery, things can go wrong with it after sale.
I recommend, just buy new batteries and dispense with the bother.
Really wanting to see more of the racing on the other channel. Onix is looking like he is following dad's talent behind the wheel.
Coming up this summer!
@@MillennialFarmer it's the starter
@@zacharystrasser8138 I had a similar issue with my truck.
13:53 one of the best songs ever in the background
Man that truck looks real nice those wheels are sweet
As for the stuck tire. Stick a block between tire and frame and use the power steering to push it off
I like that idea
If it starts… 😂
@MillennialFarmer your way prob generates more views and interactions though. Haha
Thanks for the tip!
Put antisieze on the face of the hub to prevent the wheels from getting stuck to the hub. Grease works well too.
WOW only 7K subscriptions left and Ana is going to be promoted to co-pilot. i for one cannot wait to see that happen....keep the content coming!
Zac, put some anti-seize on the steel hubs where they mate to the alum. wheels. Next time they'll come right off.
The problem with high resistance battery connections is that they allow the battery to be discharged, but not fully charged. On your old batteries, trickle charge, then load test, those might not be bad with all that corrosion.
Hint: before you disconnect the batteries, take a couple of pictures or make a map drawing of all the battery cables.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Zach, those aluminum wheels will not stay bright very long. You need to spray them with clear coat right after polishing, otherwise they will oxidize and get dull again.
We use Sharkhide on our aluminum here in Montana. It helps the road grim from eating the polish off your wheels
@@pedrogunner9750 Sharkhide is the way to go. Even on my dirt bike aluminum parts!
Never heart of it until now I have to check it out for aluminum wheels on plow trucks.
In northern Michigan we just pee on em a lot. There’s no hope.
@@taurus4205 🤪
The rims on the semi look really good
High CCA #'s are your friend, corrosion & swollen cables creates heat and resistance. The wheels look great. I used to do mine by hand with a polishing wheel on a buffer, the tanks are a biotch! The new building looks great! love the overhead door. Do you think you'll ever pour concrete in the new building? Keep up the great content!
Hey Zach one tool you won't regret getting is a dead blow sled hammer so you can hit those aluminum wheels. My dad and uncle have one for the Ford 1 ton aluminum wheels and for the semi truck wheels as they are the most common to get stuck on. They are mechanics for their day job and it was a night and day difference for them plus it doesn't wreck the rim. Hope to catch you at the track again this summer.
Let's make it 1 million subscriber👍👍
Something that might help with diagnosing your truck/tractor vampire current draws... You need a multi-meter with an inductive AC/DC current pickup loop. Lets you clamp it around a single wire to read the current flowing in the wire. Some inductive pickups only work for AC, so make sure the meter's inductive pickup is also rated for DC use.
To be precise, inductive loops always only work with AC, as only changing current induces another current (and voltage). For the same reason there are no DC transformers. There are special clamp meters, which can also measure DC current. These meters have a hall sensor, but are not that accurate. It will definitely find higher draws, which drain the batteries over night. But it is hard to detect smaller draws. (The hall sensor is also the reason for the much higher price).
@@markuswagner5754 The Fluke 325 Clamp Meter (currently $270-ish on Amazon) is specked in its manual for DC current readings via its jaw as follows: Range 40.00, 400.0 A; Resolution 0.01, 0.1 A (per range); Accuracy 2.0% ± 5 digits. That should reasonably measure 0.1A of DC current.
@@bradmeacham6982 that's better than I remembered and should be good enough. Nether the less the AC only clamp meters are cheaper exactly because they don't require a hall sensor. But the difference is especially big with bugged clamp meters and you're right, there are DC clamp meters for a reasonable. Especially, if you consider, that these better ones like the mentioned Fluke are much more robust and last longer.
And one proper clamp meter still is way cheaper than an addition set of batteries ;)
A low voltage charger is also called a battery tender. They’re very useful for when you want to keep your vehicle battery/ies topped off before you start it again.
What a difference that made! My opinion FWIW: those cable joints are *really* suspect.
I've seen clean looking joints cause a no start let alone corroded ones.This could also explain why the cutoff switch doesnt help much.
That said, check for current draws to be on the safe side.
Zach, I always see you having confusion with finding the right hydraulic hoses for the right remotes especially when you have a bunch of them on an implement.
Get some zip ties in a bunch of colours (if you have coloured remotes get those colours), then for each pair of hoses put one zip tie on the input hose and two zip ties on the return using the same colour - then you will know which way around they go just by looking at the zip ties and if you have coloured remotes use the same colour of zip ties on those pairs of hoses as the remote has, next time you go to hook up it'll be a whole load easier.
He has mentioned a dozen+ times that he has the stuff to do it. I think he should save doing it for a video when he hits 1.5mil subs (odds are good it will take that long to actually get around to doing it anyways lol)
My good friend's father, a mechanic all his life, had a saying, "Only a rich man can afford cheap things." Point proven once again.
Great watching you caring for the truck 🚚 I am flying out ti America 🇺🇸 in may for a long holiday mainly to sè working farms and tracking companies from the UK 🇬🇧 ...check wheel nuts after driving a few miles Great video
so far as the steer axle and the drives as well, they make a rubber/plastic spacer that helps aluminum rims from sticking to the steel drums.
may help the next time you try to remove them.
Good video was fun to watch. Wondering how long you can go before you polish fuel tanks
A trick to get stuck wheels off that I use is loosen all the lug nuts, then thread them back on until they touch the rim and then back them off just a little bit, maybe half a turn or 1/8" of space between nut and rim. Then set the truck back down on the ground and drive forward and back hitting the breaks and this should work to break the seal.
For front steer wheels sometimes all you need to do is turn the wheels left and right and you can feel them break loose. With the trucks weight on them of course.
That’s for sure Zack, that actor you hired to play you bringing his own light crew and everything man that’s nice. Best thing about having an actor do all the farming work for you is you can just play with your around the round dirt cars well, this time of the season I guess snow mobiles.
I giggled a couple times. Thanks for that very subtle. Dz
Get battery isolator for all the semis and older stuff.
Great video I can't wait for the next one and the one on Between the rows
You got to love Emerson Manufacturing Jacks, Emerson Nebr. If I'm not mistaking !! They also have extension pipes so you can change rogator tires from fats to skinnies and still have pins for jack stands. I had the pleasure of walking thru there warehouse 8-10 yrs ago they have it in stock!!
On our farm, when we have equipment that drain batteries when sitting over time, we've installed battery disconnect switches and mornings are now much less stressful. Saves hours and colorful vocabulary...
You could add a disconnect . Then you would know if there’s a draw .
He mentioned that he has one. There must be a vampire load somewhere for him to have the batteries draw down with the disconnect turned off.
Zach just a warning the higher the CCA on the battery the more plates that are in it. Those plates are closer together and when heated up (from charging or big amp loads) they can warp, if they touch together the battery is ruined.
Also a "fiber" or poly washer between the aluminum wheel and the steel drum will prevent galvanic corrosion and make your next removal easier
bullocks , the plates are isolated by polyesther matting..
This rarely happens and if it does it’s with cheap batteries, never ever heard of it happening with modern batteries
I fought hard starts for a year on my 7.3 powerstroke. The starter finally gave up and i realized after putting a new starter in that it was my problem the entire time.
Love your videos. Out of pure curiosity I would love to see you make a vid of all the vehicles and equipment on the farm.
Ah Zach seeing as you got your drive tires off I hope that you give them a rotate from right rear to left front or something like that anyway 😁 Also a little Mother's Polish and a rag would have Polished them up on the truck. But anyway good job
These maintenance videos are pretty good I enjoy it
When I used to build buses I would use a spade under the wheels to put them on, gives you full range of movement up,down and sideways to line up on the studs.
You probably know this, Zach. But to keep the wheels from being stuck like that put anti-seize on the back side of the wheel where it goes against the hub. Never had an issue since I've started doing that.
You should run airline around your entire shop with extra hoses on reels so you can use air anywhere in your shop. 7 more subscribers until Anna gets a ride in the tractor. You should also replace all of the tail lights, marker lights, turn signal lights, reverse light and interior lights with LED at some point. And when you are finished with the truck, you should try to do 1 trailer to go with this truck and shine it up as well. A shined up truck should have a shined up trailer to go with it.
7000
Kool new upgrades congrats good luck on figuring out your battery issue
We’ve had to grind down the plastic nut covers to fit before with those trux kits just enough for the threads to grab just a thought, we also have a stationary belt sander that makes it easy
Zach, we use two crowbars to lift truck wheels onto their hubs. One either side of the tire with the inner end about half the width of the tire, and two foot of lever extending out from the wheel. You hold the top of the tire in with your head, and walk the wheel in with the levers. You can rotate the wheel two align the studs. One more thing... that dusting of rust on the floor after using the wire wheel, is also in your lungs if you did not use a mask. If you can taste it, and if your throat is sore, you have been breathing that rusty dust. It will kill you if you keep doing it, so wear a proper mask.
Sit in a stool, grab two holes about knee height, use your forearms as the lever for your knees, calf raise, and she'll go right on.
Also use one large pry bar, set it on the ground center of axle with the tip under the hub, roll tire onto bar, lift bar from handle, slides in easy. Can replace pry bar with lumber.
@@matthewgarrett9717 You can get away with one pry bar and a foot if you have good boots. Wedge your foot under the tire, and use the pry bar to rotate the wheel onto you foot.
Liked for mask to protect from that nasty rust. No clue about truck tires so…
I think some anti seize on the wheels would help for next time removing!
He did that. When Onyx was standing there.
Especially on the hub, where the aluminum meets the cast-iron that’s the problem that’s why they’re stuck not the threads, they always oxidize between the aluminum and cast-iron very frustrating, Motor oil is fine for the studs I have found out it’s a little bit less messy than never seize, putting something on is better than nothing👍!!
@@dryroasted5599 he only did the studs. Not the hub
Never ever and I mean EVER put anti seize on wheel studs. You will never have proper torque.
@austin paxman Wasn't talking about on the wheel studs! Just on the back of the wheel anywhere it contacts the stee hub.
That was sweet seeing the years of crud buildup get polished away like right now on those wheels.
Hi Zack, My shop puts plastic rim protectors between the aluminum rim and the steel hubs. These are a thin sheets of plastic that fits over the 10-studs and will cut the electrolysis between the steel and the aluminum. It will save the sledge hammer swinging! We put them on all the trucks with aluminum rims... including the new chassis we get from the factory! Love the content.... I'm hooked!
I'm not a tire professional but I've been a truck driver for 22 years and changed a few tires. However, I was screaming at my phone when I saw you getting ready to put anti-seize on the studs! Don't do that, dude. Also, invest in a couple tire spoons...makes it much easier to manipulate the wheel onto the hub. Great content! Keep it up!
Oh no anti-seize on de nuts. Studs
Not on deez nuts! 😆
I’m glad you like your Emerson Jack. Thanks for supporting our family business.
Those lights are awsome iv been putting led in everything I own rims look good
You remind me of when I first started working on big rigs. So , I must say I laughed at your adventure !!
The starter is crap, need a new starter, now I’ve seen it all using a four wheel to get off a tire😂
Just wondering if you've tried a parasitic drain tester on your truck's batteries. Pretty cheap on Amazon and it works to either confirm or rule out the possibility of a parasitic drain on all your trucks.
Have you ever considered running john deere batteries in the semi truck? You don't seem to have issues with the tractors starting, and you could get them through the local dealer.
They have done a good job, it looks great 👍
Truck looks good Zac!! I thought for a second there it was a new one. Just need to polish those tanks now😁
Always feels good to get everything things shiny!