Good episode! I installed a new sender in my '69 and it would only stay on full after a fillup for about 10 miles, and I'd get to 1/8 tank and it would only hold 10 gallons to fill up (these should hold about 19 gal). I pulled my sender, held it alongside the tank, and saw that the float was at the very top of the tank in full position and 4" off the floor in empty position. I held the arm with pliers and straightened the bend a little, so that the float was an inch off the floor at empty, and a few inches from the top at full. Now I go about 40 miles when the needle starts to come off of full, and when I fill up at 1/8 tank, it holds about 15 gallons, so I have a few gallons of safety buffer. Just thought this would be some good info to include on adjusting the float arm for more accurate reading. Even a brand new sender might need adjustment.
When I was a pup I did my apprenticeship at Flexdrive Instruments, the Aussie arm of Stewart Warner. In all the years I worked there and in all my experience with instruments since, I've never seen anything like that attachment on the float, though you're probably right about why it's there. As for the high reading, at the factory the gauges were all calibrated right on the line, it was actually the senders that were adjusted so the gauge would read slightly over-full. Most American and Aussie instruments of that era were 73-10 ohms so the senders were adjusted to 9 ohms at full. Even today, with carbon resistance instead of wire wound, the resistances are set so the gauge reads slightly over-full. Though when I worked at the factory I asked why the senders were set this way and I never got an answer, to this day I don't know why it's done. Admittedly, when ever I calibrate a sender, I like to set it over-full rather than right on the line.
I picked up a 72 F-100 Ranger XLT back in about 1979-80. The fuel sender failed and I replaced it. The original sender/float had that same part clipped onto it, in much better shape at the time though, lol. I never knew what it was, but I did reinstall it on the replacement sender. I always kind of assumed it was some sort of counterweight or slosh dampener. Your idea about it keeping the brass float from tapping on the side of the narrow tank makes a lot more sense. I wonder if it was only used on the (less common in those days) higher line trucks to prevent a noise complaint. Someone with a (much more common) base model Custom would be less likely to worry about a noise like that , where someone who spent the money for a fancier Ranger or Sport Custom would be more likely to notice and complain. That might explain why it's such an obscure part today. Another thought is that it may have been a thing on Canadian built F-100s. Mine had Ford of Canada stickers on the door near the VIN plate. Not sure if yours does. Just food for thought.
I replaced mine a while ago and I believe it shows only the top ten gallons of gas. I put about 5 gallons in it a day and it shows half before I fill it and it goes to full after.
I've talked to a couple of people about reproducing the rubber part for the float. The tolerances on the new senders are not as tight as the original Ford senders were, and so you get that clunking.
Hey Jeff ian having issues with my temperature and fuel gauges on my 1959 frod Fairlane 500 Galaxy ignition on both gages go to the max to the right tested both gauges and replaced the voltage regulator on the ipc rechecked now wirh the ignition on gauges won't move at all iam wondering if the gauges went bad since doing the testing on them the gauges move but not all the way only move half way but they juerk back and forth.
I have a 1942 ford 3/4 ton and my gas gauge isn't functioning. Is it safe to test the sending unit with the battery still connected ? Thank you signed A novice.
Does the gauge on the dash run one side post through that voltage regulator and then the orange wire to the sender ? so the gauge is power through one side and out the other with pulse power to the sender ...
Great video! My '72 F100 reads 3/4 when full and just stays there until after I go below 3/4. In other words the bottom 3/4 reads accurately, best I can tell. Good enough for me. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." But I am getting gas fumes when I'm over half a tank and I make a sharp right turn (gas swooshes to the left toward neck). I'll have to check all the rubber components. I know the outside rubber ring is dry, shriveled, and cracked. Thanks for explaining what all those lines are on the top of the tank...evaporative system. Hmm
I just finished installing a Pertronix setup in my '72 F100, per your video. It's pretty easy until you get into splicing. It pained me to cut into the original harness.
I have a 1970 Torino and I am in the middle of a fuel tank replacement, and I was trying to see if it was going to work, so I plugged the sender in, propped it to the full position. I hooked a makeshift ground to the body, since it doesn't have a ground connection at the sender plate mounting, like this truck does. I imagine it grounds through the flange bolts possibly? Anyway, before the car would show a half tank when it was first filled completely, then soon after would read 1/4 until it was empty. Anyway, now it reads nothing? Is there a possibly I unhooked a ground at the instrument cluster? I can swear I remembered a ground that was on one of the cluster mounting screws, but now I am not so sure. It's been a year or so since I have worked on the interior.
I knew I remembered correctly. The reason I remember it better now, is that the ring for the ground wire had broken off, and I made a mental note to replace it. Thanks for the brain refreshment, haha. LOVE this series of shows, thanks a LOT for filming and posting them!
If you want to accurately test the fuel gauge first find the specs for the ohms for full, mid and empty. Then get a variable resister and use a DVOM to dial in the the three fuel levels then use the VR to check the gauge
the Volkswagen bugs from the 50,s did not even come with a gas gauge in the dash. they came with a stick like that. the stick was pre-marked from the factory.
in all of my years of messing around with VW,s i have only seen one of those bug sticks. it was a square stick about one inch in size. the writing on it was in german. and it had the VW logo on it.
the only place that i think that you could find one. is a web site called thesamba.com . you have type it in just like how i spelled it all one word. it is a site of nothing but VW stuff. there should be some one on there that would have a picture.
I'd try and get a Long Grabber Tool: www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=asc_df_B006ZEOXJY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312003160272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=618426626720725671&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025496&hvtargid=pla-569776745433&psc=1
@@AutoRestoMod I have tried to take the wire off the fuel sending unit thing and grounded it and nothing. The fuel gauge hand stays on E all the time no matter what. Checked fuses tried grounding that wire tracked wires idk. At least the stick won't quit on me LMAO 😂😆
Best test is to put the ignition key in the "on" position without starting the engine, watch the gauge. If it pegs you have a bad sensor or a ground issue. If it starts to peg, after the test turn it off and unplug the sensor.
the best sender is a reed switch vey simple the only moving part ic the float the rest ia slim stainless steel rod mnt stndard 5 hole comes in lota lingths id ead 33ohm full 240 ohms empty very accrate sender comes with gasket sendd-er starat $50.00 gauge about 25 only two wire conn.easy to install
I have a 1983 Ford F100 Stepside 4.9 Inline 6 Cylinder And My Fuel Gauge Is Off, It'll Say That It's Empty When It Still Has Fuel In It. It Puked Fuel Out When I Was Filling It Up, And It Hasn't Worked Right Since. I Put A New Sending Unit In It When We Put A New Tank In It, I Have To Turn The Key To Accessory When I Fill Up So I Can See The Gauge Moving To Full And I Never Seem To Put More Than 9 Gallons Back Into A 16 Gallon Tank So It Goes Over The Fill Mark. ..... I Might Need A New Gauge, Check Ground, Or Another Fuel Sending Unit.
Mine to ...cheap rubber the original lasted 50 years the new one 6 months I'm still using the 50 year old grommet on my aux tank filler neck it cracked in half I glued it together and stuck it back in
@@yeboscrebo4451 Yeah they sent me the wrong one I got 2 cab grommets also I bought the window crank knobs they fell off in no time I went to home Depot and bought cabinet knobs looked just as good and still there after 3 years some of the resto parts aren't made very well but it's the thought that counts ha ha
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[2/2] ประสบการณ์ขนหัวลุกจากตำนานวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T_kFecQw7Ds/mqdefault.jpg)
Good episode!
I installed a new sender in my '69 and it would only stay on full after a fillup for about 10 miles, and I'd get to 1/8 tank and it would only hold 10 gallons to fill up (these should hold about 19 gal). I pulled my sender, held it alongside the tank, and saw that the float was at the very top of the tank in full position and 4" off the floor in empty position. I held the arm with pliers and straightened the bend a little, so that the float was an inch off the floor at empty, and a few inches from the top at full. Now I go about 40 miles when the needle starts to come off of full, and when I fill up at 1/8 tank, it holds about 15 gallons, so I have a few gallons of safety buffer. Just thought this would be some good info to include on adjusting the float arm for more accurate reading. Even a brand new sender might need adjustment.
elburno454 good tip, thanks!
When I was a pup I did my apprenticeship at Flexdrive Instruments, the Aussie arm of Stewart Warner. In all the years I worked there and in all my experience with instruments since, I've never seen anything like that attachment on the float, though you're probably right about why it's there.
As for the high reading, at the factory the gauges were all calibrated right on the line, it was actually the senders that were adjusted so the gauge would read slightly over-full.
Most American and Aussie instruments of that era were 73-10 ohms so the senders were adjusted to 9 ohms at full.
Even today, with carbon resistance instead of wire wound, the resistances are set so the gauge reads slightly over-full.
Though when I worked at the factory I asked why the senders were set this way and I never got an answer, to this day I don't know why it's done.
Admittedly, when ever I calibrate a sender, I like to set it over-full rather than right on the line.
Great input!
I picked up a 72 F-100 Ranger XLT back in about 1979-80. The fuel sender failed and I replaced it. The original sender/float had that same part clipped onto it, in much better shape at the time though, lol. I never knew what it was, but I did reinstall it on the replacement sender. I always kind of assumed it was some sort of counterweight or slosh dampener. Your idea about it keeping the brass float from tapping on the side of the narrow tank makes a lot more sense.
I wonder if it was only used on the (less common in those days) higher line trucks to prevent a noise complaint. Someone with a (much more common) base model Custom would be less likely to worry about a noise like that , where someone who spent the money for a fancier Ranger or Sport Custom would be more likely to notice and complain. That might explain why it's such an obscure part today.
Another thought is that it may have been a thing on Canadian built F-100s. Mine had Ford of Canada stickers on the door near the VIN plate. Not sure if yours does. Just food for thought.
I replaced mine a while ago and I believe it shows only the top ten gallons of gas. I put about 5 gallons in it a day and it shows half before I fill it and it goes to full after.
My 69 Ranger had the rubber cover on the float as well and I believe it's the factory sender. My float sprung a leak.
I've talked to a couple of people about reproducing the rubber part for the float. The tolerances on the new senders are not as tight as the original Ford senders were, and so you get that clunking.
Hey Jeff ian having issues with my temperature and fuel gauges on my 1959 frod Fairlane 500 Galaxy ignition on both gages go to the max to the right tested both gauges and replaced the voltage regulator on the ipc rechecked now wirh the ignition on gauges won't move at all iam wondering if the gauges went bad since doing the testing on them the gauges move but not all the way only move half way but they juerk back and forth.
I have a 1942 ford 3/4 ton and my gas gauge isn't functioning. Is it safe to test the sending unit with the battery still connected ? Thank you signed A novice.
Thank you guys super helpful video definitely got my fuel gauge up and running now question is do you guys have a video for temperature gauge
Yep. th-cam.com/video/O2RWXMoBoO8/w-d-xo.html
@@AutoRestoMod i have an anti rattle float. from/in,a 70,s f100. std..& yes,,they rattle,sometimes..
I have a 78 Lincoln mark v and my fuel gauge is stuck on empty are all ford and Lincoln sending unit floats the same?
Does the gauge on the dash run one side post through that voltage regulator and then the orange wire to the sender ? so the gauge is power through one side and out the other with pulse power to the sender ...
Great video! My '72 F100 reads 3/4 when full and just stays there until after I go below 3/4. In other words the bottom 3/4 reads accurately, best I can tell. Good enough for me. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." But I am getting gas fumes when I'm over half a tank and I make a sharp right turn (gas swooshes to the left toward neck). I'll have to check all the rubber components. I know the outside rubber ring is dry, shriveled, and cracked. Thanks for explaining what all those lines are on the top of the tank...evaporative system. Hmm
Theo Vallas, see my comment on adjusting your float arm. It should be a few comments up from yours.
I just finished installing a Pertronix setup in my '72 F100, per your video. It's pretty easy until you get into splicing. It pained me to cut into the original harness.
We hear ya. Doesn't do us any favors either.
Gauge is not my problem but it smells like gas in the cab. What’s the fix?
Great vids guys, have done these exact repairs with your help
I have a 1970 Torino and I am in the middle of a fuel tank replacement, and I was trying to see if it was going to work, so I plugged the sender in, propped it to the full position. I hooked a makeshift ground to the body, since it doesn't have a ground connection at the sender plate mounting, like this truck does. I imagine it grounds through the flange bolts possibly? Anyway, before the car would show a half tank when it was first filled completely, then soon after would read 1/4 until it was empty. Anyway, now it reads nothing? Is there a possibly I unhooked a ground at the instrument cluster? I can swear I remembered a ground that was on one of the cluster mounting screws, but now I am not so sure. It's been a year or so since I have worked on the interior.
The cluster does have a ground. So I'd make sure that the grounds are all solid.
I knew I remembered correctly. The reason I remember it better now, is that the ring for the ground wire had broken off, and I made a mental note to replace it. Thanks for the brain refreshment, haha. LOVE this series of shows, thanks a LOT for filming and posting them!
If you want to accurately test the fuel gauge first find the specs for the ohms for full, mid and empty. Then get a variable resister and use a DVOM to dial in the the three fuel levels then use the VR to check the gauge
Agreed. The way we are showing is a way that the average enthusiast can know that the gauge is working and registering.
the Volkswagen bugs from the 50,s did not even come with a gas gauge in the dash. they came with a stick like that. the stick was pre-marked from the factory.
LOL Gotta love German engineering.
in all of my years of messing around with VW,s i have only seen one of those bug sticks. it was a square stick about one inch in size. the writing on it was in german. and it had the VW logo on it.
Would LOVE to see a picture of one! We've never heard of that bit of VW info. It's things like that that make us smile!
the only place that i think that you could find one. is a web site called thesamba.com . you have type it in just like how i spelled it all one word. it is a site of nothing but VW stuff. there should be some one on there that would have a picture.
Thanks for that we'll go looking.
The little sock on the end of my old sender fell off into the tank as I was taking it out, is there anyway for me to fish it out?
Or I mean the little float for the noise cancellation
Or I mean the little float for the noise cancellation
I'd try and get a Long Grabber Tool:
www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=asc_df_B006ZEOXJY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312003160272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=618426626720725671&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025496&hvtargid=pla-569776745433&psc=1
I still use the stick to check my gas to this day. Wish I knew how to fix my gas gauge lol
We've done a couple of videos on gauges and how to check them.
@@AutoRestoMod I have tried to take the wire off the fuel sending unit thing and grounded it and nothing. The fuel gauge hand stays on E all the time no matter what. Checked fuses tried grounding that wire tracked wires idk. At least the stick won't quit on me LMAO 😂😆
Lol I use the stick method too😂😂😂 just another thing I added to my list to fix.
What about a temp gauge I put a new sending unit and it still goes straight to hot after a few secs of runing an if I unplug it the gauge goes to cold
Best test is to put the ignition key in the "on" position without starting the engine, watch the gauge. If it pegs you have a bad sensor or a ground issue. If it starts to peg, after the test turn it off and unplug the sensor.
the best sender is a reed switch vey simple the only moving part ic the float the rest ia slim stainless steel rod mnt stndard 5 hole comes in lota lingths id ead 33ohm full 240 ohms empty very accrate sender comes with gasket sendd-er starat $50.00 gauge about 25 only two wire conn.easy to install
Agreed. I know that a couple companies are looking at doing something like that for the Ford trucks.
I have a 1983 Ford F100 Stepside 4.9 Inline 6 Cylinder And My Fuel Gauge Is Off, It'll Say That It's Empty When It Still Has Fuel In It.
It Puked Fuel Out When I Was Filling It Up, And It Hasn't Worked Right Since. I Put A New Sending Unit In It When We Put A New Tank In It, I Have To Turn The Key To Accessory When I Fill Up So I Can See The Gauge Moving To Full And I Never Seem To Put More Than 9 Gallons Back Into A 16 Gallon Tank So It Goes Over The Fill Mark. ..... I Might Need A New Gauge, Check Ground, Or Another Fuel Sending Unit.
yay!!! thank guys
now I can find out how much dead dinos I got in the tank lolol
and another ford pu dash pic of an empty tank.mine to thanx for the view,
Don't buy the filler neck grommet from LMC. Mine started cracking after a month on the truck
Mine to ...cheap rubber the original lasted 50 years the new one 6 months I'm still using the 50 year old grommet on my aux tank filler neck it cracked in half I glued it together and stuck it back in
RadDadGarage haha I tried finding a replacement grommet for that aux tank and was unsuccessful
@@yeboscrebo4451
Yeah they sent me the wrong one I got 2 cab grommets also I bought the window crank knobs they fell off in no time I went to home Depot and bought cabinet knobs looked just as good and still there after 3 years some of the resto parts aren't made very well but it's the thought that counts ha ha