How To Classic Car Ford Fuel Gauge diagnosis Episode 8 Manic Mechanic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
- If your Ford gas gauge is not functioning we give you tips and tricks on how to find where the problem is. Be it Voltage Regulator sender or gauge, these simple tests with an electrical test light (as well as a volt meter) will have it worked out in short order.
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Thanks for watching!
Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com
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Just inherited dad 1969 Ranger Camper Special. Fuel tank work and now nothing! Thanks for rhe input i will be checking this out tomorrow when home from work will be following to see what other goodies i may find for my new project
Watch what you get for a sending unit. I purchased a new one and tested it for correct resistance throughout its range a movement. All seemed perfect prior to installation . Once installed a full tank was 3/4 indicated on the gage . The arm was not bent to the correct angle. Very maddening.
We will be airing an episode on testing when installing the gauge on 6.15.17.
Same here for my 61 F-100! Full tank reads 3/4 of a tank, and I drive a couple miles and it's showing empty.
Need some fuel gauge help. My gauge now won't read over 1/4.
1. I replaced the sender, gauge and I "think" the regular too a few years ago during restoration. Although even then it never read over 7/8 at full.
2. If I ground the gauge lead at tank, it climbs to full.
3. When I connect a test light to the tank gauge lead it glows steady and very dim. It doesn't pulse (which I believe it's supposed to do, right?)
Thoughts? I really hate driving this around not knowing my fuel status. The 460 has a severe drinking problem.
66 Thunderbird, yes the original electrical nightmare
New tank, new sending unit, new voltage regulator. No life on the gauge 🤔
Nice diagnostics
great video. thanks for the help
Mine was a sender unit in the furl tank rusted out float replaced it with a stainless steel unit.
Right on.
Gas gauge on 1954 Ford convertible (have installed new sending unit)
Should be the same generally. The gauges on a 12V system (in Fords) are still six volt gauges.
My new sending unit reads .75 at the empty position. When i use the test light as you demonstrated its lit up, but doesn't flash. The 1966 F100 gas gauge reads just above 1/4 tank at empty, but otherwise seems to function. Ideas? All the other gauges function properly.
1970 f250 Gage reads empty or sometimes only 1/4 of a tank put a jumper wire between the wires on the sending unit and the gauge went all the way up I would have tried a test light as well but I didn't own one at the time or a voltmeter ordered a new sending unit watched your other installation video tested to make sure the sending unit was good before installation but now the gauge doesn't move at all when I put a jumper wire and now the test light doesn't come on do you think this means that I need a new voltage regulator? or a new gauge? Would love some help only own the truck for 3 weeks now enjoying the adventure of having an older vehicle
Also has factory second tank if that's at all helpful that is currently not installed in the truck because I'm replacing all the rubber hoses on it
I'm betting on gounds, do a wire trace and make sure that you have all the grounds correctly set.
@@AutoRestoMod I'll take a look thank you
Thank you!
Hey Jeff, I’m revisiting this issue again. I did replace the voltage regulator a few years ago and am getting a steady light on the test light. Can voltage regulators go bad? Reality is it never worked.
Great video!
What if it shows that the instrument voltage regulator AND the gauge are not working? That doesn't seem likely
I'd look at the grounds. Most for clusters ground to the dash panel.
Thanks
Welcome!
I have power going to my gauge and out of my gauge but no power at all to the sending unit. I can't find a good diagram. Please help
So test lead between the hot and ground? Complete the circuit? You can't see it and you don't specify
Yes. This just shows if the gauge is functioning.
Great video, but I still need help. 1962 Mercury Monterey Custom. I have the correct amount of volts to the gas sending unit and the dashboard gage will sweep from empty to full etc. per the video. I drained my tank as much as I could and the dashboard gage shows E when powered by key in on position. I added exactly 2 gallons of fuel and the gage shows just slightly more then empty. When I start the engine the gage crawls to nearly half a tank of full ? Does the same thing each time. I have 12 to 14 volts at the sending unit running, similar to on position only. Any guidance appreciated.
I would try a wet calibration in a big pot of water. Make sure that the sender is sitting at the correct angle. Then add water and watch the gauge. It could be the reostat in the gauge is causing issues.
@kevinpierce731 19 minutes ago (edited)
Testing my 63 falcon gas gauge. When connecting the sender wire to the ground I'm getting a weak steady light (no pulsing). Then I get no reaction from the Gauge when I connect the + & - to the gauge at the sender. I've also just replaced the regulator prior to these tests. Would you suggest testing the gauge directly to eliminate a wireing harness problem? Any other suggestion? thanks! Good video
So the orange wire was supposed to have power to it ? I have a 69 camper special has two tanks with the selector switch it was supposed to change the reading from each tank seperate . Only the aux fuel gauge works if you switch the toggle back and forth it does nothing if I unplug the switch the aux tank reading still works .....no pulse at the cab tank with the test light on orange wire ....I had a idea to just not use selector switch but add another fuel gauge ..I know the gauge operates on 6v it says it right on the back .
I spliced the wire that goes to the right terminal on the gauge and added it to the 2nd gauge the one with the voltage regulator and I ran a completely new wire that I'm going to hook up to the left side terminal to the sending unit on the cab tank so they get power from the same source that voltage regulator and the reading wires are seperate , I just don't know if it's going to work .????
I'm betting that you have n issue with the sender on the main tank. If the float got holed or the reostat arm got broken, it will do that.
@@AutoRestoMod thanks for the reply !!! I appreciate it liking those videos your putting out well it has 2 tanks when I bought the truck the main gauge was inop it has the switch that I guess changes the wiring from 1 sender to another .
I recently hooked the valve up again so both tanks work through the valve I had this idea to add a second gauge under the original and run a new wire to the sender and jump the hot wire from the original gauge to the new one so they shared the 5/6 volts and I ran a seperate sender to the cab tank off the new gauge .
Although it did not work I grounded out the gauge like in your video and it went to full like yours did I checked the sender with a ohm meter and it didn't do anything with a good sender I think it should had worked the way I wired it I basically just added another gauge and used the power for it and ran it's own send it wire bypassing the switch .
I have brand new sending unit & the gauge moves . Shows full when full & shows empty when below half .nothing in the middle
Might be the sender in the tank. Some of the repop ones are less than wonderful.
@@AutoRestoMod oh whats annoying is i checked it before i put it in the tank . So maybe ground im thinking
I recently had to rewire my 1969 Torino GT. (Yes it was as fun as it sounds) I have the gauge feed wire and ground ran correctly but there is a C.V.R connection on the gauges that the news wiring kit does not allow for. My fuel gauge no longer works now. All my connections to the sending unit are good but I have no voltage coming out of my gauges to the sending unit. Is the C.V.R wire connection my problem? If so do I just run a 12 volt from the "run" side of the fuse box or ??? Signed Lost in the Sauce
What harness? Stock or aftermarket?
My gauge reads 1/4 tank all the time! Does that mean the gauge is broken?
Could be that the sender is stuck.
love the videos! always informative and never to dull. But what do I do when my gage is on E when I've got fuel but when it gets low it bumps up to 1/4 tank and drops, a few miles later it goes from E to 1/2 then drops to E and back to 1/4 and then I'm out of gas?? 86 f250 carb converted Manuel pump. diesel model sender. Has 3 pin connector. #YourAbortionIsMyAdoptin Project hahahahaha
these bumps with the gage are extremely consistent. as in never fails to repeat the exact same motions every single time
Sender is most likely to blame. Though just to be safe we'd run checks on the grounds.
I replaced the sender and tank about a year ago along with many many other things. The gage didn't change.. I think I just answered my question or solved my own issue. Itd probably be the gage then, or a ground. That's it
Oh, OK, didn't know that the sender had been replaced. Still, just because the sender is new doesn't mean it is reading correct. If you can source one, get a known good sender, and test the gauge with the known good one outside the tank.
Also we'll be releasing a video 6.15.17 that deals with this.
Good tips my friends. Good tips. I'll be looking for that videos release. Like I said I always enjoy Autorestomod episodes!! Keep up the good work guys! Be safe and remember, it's not a problem. It's a project hahaha
I have a 78 ford with dual tanks and my gas gauge is always showing full. I took off the aux tank because i changed beds on it and it only had 1 tank opening on the bed. I wired (and followed the wires to where they go) to the back tank, power and fuel gauge all together wired them up. I replaced the sending unit, and the pig tail that goes on the sending unit and I have an electric fuel pump to help the mechanical pump, pump fuel and use the same ground as the pig tail for the sending unit (when I cut on the truck to acc or on the electric pump is working so I assume the ground is good). I checked the ohms on the sending unit in the tank it was show 75ohms then I added 5gals of gas and it went too 68ohms, so I assume the sending unit is working right. What could be causing my gauge to be showing full all the time?
I might check the voltage regulator first then make sure the ground fir the gauges us good.
please do this for a 1986 ford F150 straight 6 with mechanical fuel pump.My gauge is not working Please please please
They are the same.
Where is easiest to access and test the wires. Tank under the bed on this one
On your second test what if the gauge only goes half way to full?
I would look to the rheostat on the sender or you may have a faulty gauge. If you can scare up a spare gauge, I'd test it against that.
My gauge does not work after installing a new sending unit. And I dont know what it is
Check and make sure there is fuel. I know, sounds stupid. But honestly, it has happened to me...
I have a 78 ford f250.. I don't think the gas tank in in the cab🤔
They moved the tanks out of the cab in '73.
@@AutoRestoMod I have a 76 with fuel tank in the cab. Look just like the one in the vid you did. Any thoughts. Think it might be out of a 72?
Could I use a voltmeter instead of a test light
For sure!
Got a 65 inline 6 whose gauge doesn't read right (shows 3/4 when tank is full).
Im pretty sure it probably float related.
Whats the procedure for getting it to read as accurately as possible? Just bend the arm?
First, we would remove the sender (drain that gas first!). Work in a well ventilated area and have a fan going to dissipate the fumes. Remove the float and ground it, run a test lead to the threaded post hold it near the correct angle have someone turn on the key and watch the gauge. We'll do a calibration video on the new one we put in the F100 and cover how to kind of set up the sender. Make sure the float isn't holding fuel too.
AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications
Sweet. Thanks for the quick reply! While I have you here...
You guys ever gonna do a vid on alternative heads for the six?
I have a spare six that I'm modding to take the Aussie crossflow (if I can ever find one minus the block), it would be cool to hear you guys on something "out-of-the-ordinary".
Well we Love us some aussie stuff. We'd need to source a head and build one...
We might! We'd just need an Aussie head. We have a rebuildable 200.
AutoRestoMod Muscle Car Resto and Modifications
Awesome!
In case you hadn't found it, here's the main source of info I've found for the mod (and what I'm using as a guide for my spare block)...
fordsix.com/ci/XFheadswap.html
Looks pretty straight forward.
Btw...is it true that its best to sit the six's short block on a flat surface (vs an end-mount engine stand) due to slight bending/warping/alignment problems during assembly? Or is this just a wives tale and I can leave it on my stand...