Scanner: amzn.to/44eKzJO Mutimeter (It's cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/44aorjE Back Probe kit: amzn.to/40OMba9 Banana Plug Test Leads for Multimeter: amzn.to/3LFpeBQ
thank you so much. i have azera 2009 3.3L V6 GLS & the driving experience changed years ago. it was sporty in the corners & so stable on wet street or when it rains, it's like it sticks to the ground! very amazing system!. that had me pulling my hair to figure it out. mechanically checked & fixed but nothing solved. changed angel & the 4 ABS speed sensors. plus i don't have any check lights. all i can think of is that these sensors is giving wrong feed back!
The thing is, just because a sensor is kicking out a voltage doesn't mean it is at the correct level. It's an indication it may be working not that it is. You also need a DVM with a decent refresh rate - there are plenty out there which are pretty slow.
Incandescent test lights do not ruin the computer on the signal wire. Been doing it for years and can show multiple videos of others using it on signal wires. If its in 300 milliamperes range, its fine
I've got a video on that, 9/10 the signal wire is fine due to how the circuit is sit up. but "signal wire" isn't always that according to diff manufacturers. Plus you'll be doing the testing at the connectors where the ref voltage and ground wire are also and for those you should use the LED test light. so to keep from accidents and the need to switch test lights by default for sensors I use the LED test light and for solenoids etc incandescent GL
@@myRatchets an incandescent light attached to the ground wire or the 5volt supply absolutely does not hurt the computer either. I test with an incandescent bulb on those circuits and never had a problem. I can also reference a diagnose dan video where he tests a five volt supply and ground with an incandescent bulb. And a scanner danner video. I do not agree it needs to be LED at all
Heck yeah! It's all up now, and your Avocado's are coming in,,,,,, right on. I've been watching you for about 5 years now! I'll be interested in those avo's! I'm here in Yuma, Az
Good day teacher, Im glad to watched your video, just I ask a question, when you shaking the car to test the sensor, what is the position of the engine? its in start or in ON position only? thanks,,
Hermano I have an 2002 Mercedes ml320 I have no lights but from time to time my brakes automatically engage by themselves the Amber triangle blinks then goes away. When I turn of the car and restart it goes back to normal for less then a mile then brakes again
Shop looks good, thank you for your advise my yaw sensor was showing on the obd2 scanner -75.5 all the time parked and while driving, I bought one and I am gonna swpp it out, I check all wheel speed sensors and they were the same while driving, as well as the sas, changing date while driving. Thank you so much. what country do your avocados come from, I may be interested. God Bless. ty again. I will comment once the sensor is changed, the car FYI is a 2006 jeep liberty sport with 190000 miles going strong. Frank
A yaw rate sensor reads rate of change in degrees per second. so I believe that that reading would being positive or negative would not have any bearing on which way your turning. This is not like a steering angle sensor where 0 degrees is dead ahead steering left is negative and steering right is positive or lateral acceleration sensor where stopped is 0 and acceleration is positive and deceleration negative. In any event your video helped me! With my car sat still I'm getting reading from 40 - 170 degrees / second! Your video helped as I get to see what 'normal' looks like! Once I replace my sensor I'll take a look at the live data and see if I'm correct! Thanks for the eloquence of your explanations!
I was going to comment about the sensor part of the video but once I saw the garage and the work you've done I have to concentrate on the garage. Wow. It's going to be a fantastic place to work from. Very nice.
Word of advice here, once you get this error pop up once, DO NOT KEEP DRIVING THE CAR UNTIL FIXED. Not only does the wheel lock up for multiple seconds, but the car refuses to take any power, in my case in a busy intersection! This is not suitable to drive around and testing your and your loved ones luck!
I have a question i hope you can answer. Im having ABS Issues on a 2011 Optima EX Turbo. The can line reads 57.5 ohms. I was told to try disconnecting the Brake Vacuum pump, which i did. The reading changed from 57.5 to 58.1. I dont think this is enough to change much, but i could be wrong. The next component on the ABS control module is the yaw sensor. The can wires gave me 120 ohms at the ABS module plug. And a power/ground reading gave me 0.0 ohms when testing for continuity. Before i put an ABS module in the car, are these readings correct?
Your garage looks fantastic and love the color scheme. Truly wish you were local. I am not a mechanic, but watch your channel hoping to find some idea to what could be going on with my newly acquired 07 LexusES350 with 150k mi -- steering is wacky and gas consumption is too high. Loses power when just starting out on a trip. Changed out the Power steering fluid. Battery is 5yrs old and tests good, and voltage regulator "fail". No lights other than the tire sensors. Already paid for a "pre purchase inspection" and they did alignment. Told me the problem with steering was "old hard tires". The tires are 4yrs old and look new. I know I am about to start "throwing parts" at the car (with a different mechanic) starting with a new battery, and possibly alternator. And will probably take it to the dealership next week. I usually drive older toyotas, which are pretty straight forward. Any suggestions about how to tell them to start out "to get to the root of the problem faster" would be greatly appreciated.
Make sure none of your calipers (or parking brakes) are partially seized. After a drive, measure the temp of each brake rotor with a laser thermometer. If one rotor is really hot, remove the caliper and inspect brakes. That would be easy to miss in a general inspection.
@@medini2 So I would separate the problems and go at them one at a time. 1st your steering (bad rack, inner and/or outer tie rods, these are the common ones) depending on what you mean by whacky it could also be other things like low power steering fluid due to a leak, power steering pump going, brake calipers as spelunderd mentioned. Than the gas comsumption issue could be due to old spark plugs, Oxygen sensors, running too rich. I don't know where the battery falls into this! Bad battery is a simple test, if it keeps going bad when parked overnight than a parasitic draw could be causing it. GL
Have occasionally noticed a "squeaking" sound coming from a rear passenger side when backing out the driveway. The calipers/ or parking brake may be partially stuck. I will try fixing that myself when we get a little good weather--didn't get to that yet.
Thank you for posting this really good video, please post more, btw your Garage looks nice now after a makeover, will i get a free sample of a box of avocado's now 🙂 please ? 🥰
So is there a next part to this video? I have the c1140 and c1000 only and i cant get it to go away! Also i had good readings on my steering angle sensor same as you did what do you think? Did you fix yours what was your issue?
Nice educational info. I have a 1994 toyota cirolla DX 1.8. The battery is dead and when Use a stronger one and use cables to jump, the engine wants to turn over but won't. I tried spraying into carb with no results. Whats could be the cause?
I got a code for a steering wheel sensor but also get performance code for the lateral acceleration sensor would the steering angle sensor cause the lateral acceleration sensor to not work properly??
Hello, Im having an issue with my 2007 hyundai sonata v6 limited. It happens randomly but its driving me crazy. Im going ti try to explain as best as I can. While driving all of the suddden my ESC OFF lights starts blinking while the car feels like is dragging its tires. Well now the minute I turn on my headlights or I flash my high beams it does it all over again. Also while that is happening which it last for a few seconds. I noticed a noise/buzz from under the steering wheel. Im scared of driving now because I dont want to gwt into an accident because I dont know when the car is going to act up or how bad it will do it.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
Scanner: amzn.to/44eKzJO
Mutimeter (It's cheaper at Harbor Freight): amzn.to/44aorjE
Back Probe kit: amzn.to/40OMba9
Banana Plug Test Leads for Multimeter: amzn.to/3LFpeBQ
thank you so much. i have azera 2009 3.3L V6 GLS & the driving experience changed years ago. it was sporty in the corners & so stable on wet street or when it rains, it's like it sticks to the ground! very amazing system!. that had me pulling my hair to figure it out. mechanically checked & fixed but nothing solved. changed angel & the 4 ABS speed sensors. plus i don't have any check lights. all i can think of is that these sensors is giving wrong feed back!
Lateral Y’awll
The thing is, just because a sensor is kicking out a voltage doesn't mean it is at the correct level. It's an indication it may be working not that it is. You also need a DVM with a decent refresh rate - there are plenty out there which are pretty slow.
Shop looks great!! Not easy to tape and float at that height. 😂
Incandescent test lights do not ruin the computer on the signal wire. Been doing it for years and can show multiple videos of others using it on signal wires. If its in 300 milliamperes range, its fine
I've got a video on that, 9/10 the signal wire is fine due to how the circuit is sit up. but "signal wire" isn't always that according to diff manufacturers. Plus you'll be doing the testing at the connectors where the ref voltage and ground wire are also and for those you should use the LED test light. so to keep from accidents and the need to switch test lights by default for sensors I use the LED test light and for solenoids etc incandescent GL
@@myRatchets an incandescent light attached to the ground wire or the 5volt supply absolutely does not hurt the computer either. I test with an incandescent bulb on those circuits and never had a problem. I can also reference a diagnose dan video where he tests a five volt supply and ground with an incandescent bulb. And a scanner danner video. I do not agree it needs to be LED at all
Such a good explanation 🎉
I have a 2007 GL450 4Matic . Any Idea where exactly this Yaw Rate Sensor is Located? Thank you so much.
Anybody? Please help.. Thank you in Advance.
Heck yeah! It's all up now, and your Avocado's are coming in,,,,,, right on. I've been watching you for about 5 years now! I'll be interested in those avo's! I'm here in Yuma, Az
Thank you stay tuned.
the lateral acceleration sensor fault could that be caused from a crash??
Good day teacher, Im glad to watched your video, just I ask a question, when you shaking the car to test the sensor, what is the position of the engine? its in start or in ON position only? thanks,,
KOEO
Hermano I have an 2002 Mercedes ml320 I have no lights but from time to time my brakes automatically engage by themselves the Amber triangle blinks then goes away. When I turn of the car and restart it goes back to normal for less then a mile then brakes again
Shop looks good, thank you for your advise my yaw sensor was showing on the obd2 scanner -75.5 all the time parked and while driving, I bought one and I am gonna swpp it out, I check all wheel speed sensors and they were the same while driving, as well as the sas, changing date while driving. Thank you so much. what country do your avocados come from, I may be interested. God Bless. ty again. I will comment once the sensor is changed, the car FYI is a 2006 jeep liberty sport with 190000 miles going strong.
Frank
Shop looks great. I'd buy avocados from ya but I'm across the country...
my scanner won't let me erase the codes until it's fixed.
❤
A yaw rate sensor reads rate of change in degrees per second. so I believe that that reading would being positive or negative would not have any bearing on which way your turning. This is not like a steering angle sensor where 0 degrees is dead ahead steering left is negative and steering right is positive or lateral acceleration sensor where stopped is 0 and acceleration is positive and deceleration negative. In any event your video helped me! With my car sat still I'm getting reading from 40 - 170 degrees / second! Your video helped as I get to see what 'normal' looks like! Once I replace my sensor I'll take a look at the live data and see if I'm correct! Thanks for the eloquence of your explanations!
Hell ya avocadoes! You're a fun guy to watch with a great sense of humor. So cars or avacodoes or shop improvements, doesn't matter, I'll watch.
I was going to comment about the sensor part of the video but once I saw the garage and the work you've done I have to concentrate on the garage. Wow. It's going to be a fantastic place to work from. Very nice.
Thanks Wyatt
very helpful video and really like what you've done to remodel your shop. Awesome paint job!
Word of advice here, once you get this error pop up once, DO NOT KEEP DRIVING THE CAR UNTIL FIXED. Not only does the wheel lock up for multiple seconds, but the car refuses to take any power, in my case in a busy intersection! This is not suitable to drive around and testing your and your loved ones luck!
I miss you man. I need you in my life.
I have a question i hope you can answer. Im having ABS Issues on a 2011 Optima EX Turbo. The can line reads 57.5 ohms. I was told to try disconnecting the Brake Vacuum pump, which i did. The reading changed from 57.5 to 58.1. I dont think this is enough to change much, but i could be wrong.
The next component on the ABS control module is the yaw sensor. The can wires gave me 120 ohms at the ABS module plug. And a power/ground reading gave me 0.0 ohms when testing for continuity. Before i put an ABS module in the car, are these readings correct?
Could you create one about different kinds of driver fatigue dection systems? I really like how you explained things here
Your garage looks fantastic and love the color scheme. Truly wish you were local. I am not a mechanic, but watch your channel hoping to find some idea to what could be going on with my newly acquired 07 LexusES350 with 150k mi -- steering is wacky and gas consumption is too high. Loses power when just starting out on a trip. Changed out the Power steering fluid. Battery is 5yrs old and tests good, and voltage regulator "fail". No lights other than the tire sensors. Already paid for a "pre purchase inspection" and they did alignment. Told me the problem with steering was "old hard tires". The tires are 4yrs old and look new.
I know I am about to start "throwing parts" at the car (with a different mechanic) starting with a new battery, and possibly alternator. And will probably take it to the dealership next week.
I usually drive older toyotas, which are pretty straight forward. Any suggestions about how to tell them to start out "to get to the root of the problem faster" would be greatly appreciated.
Make sure none of your calipers (or parking brakes) are partially seized. After a drive, measure the temp of each brake rotor with a laser thermometer. If one rotor is really hot, remove the caliper and inspect brakes. That would be easy to miss in a general inspection.
@@spelunkerd good rec. Failing rack?
@@spelunkerd I will do that straight away. Thank you!
@@medini2 So I would separate the problems and go at them one at a time. 1st your steering (bad rack, inner and/or outer tie rods, these are the common ones) depending on what you mean by whacky it could also be other things like low power steering fluid due to a leak, power steering pump going, brake calipers as spelunderd mentioned. Than the gas comsumption issue could be due to old spark plugs, Oxygen sensors, running too rich. I don't know where the battery falls into this! Bad battery is a simple test, if it keeps going bad when parked overnight than a parasitic draw could be causing it. GL
Have occasionally noticed a "squeaking" sound coming from a rear passenger side when backing out the driveway. The calipers/ or parking brake may be partially stuck.
I will try fixing that myself when we get a little good weather--didn't get to that yet.
Incredible video, thank you so much!
Ha ha, the avocado farm tour would be definitely worth it!
sure stay tuned.
I will gladly buy some avocados from you!
Thank you for posting this really good video, please post more, btw your Garage looks nice now after a makeover, will i get a free sample of a box of avocado's now 🙂 please ? 🥰
I love the way you explain your things 🎉
4:41 this is how baby mini cars are made johnny !
lol good one
I remember when you said there was going to be a party at 1m subs.... Como miente le gente.
So is there a next part to this video? I have the c1140 and c1000 only and i cant get it to go away! Also i had good readings on my steering angle sensor same as you did what do you think? Did you fix yours what was your issue?
Nice educational info. I have a 1994 toyota cirolla DX 1.8. The battery is dead and when Use a stronger one and use cables to jump, the engine wants to turn over but won't. I tried spraying into carb with no results. Whats could be the cause?
I got a code for a steering wheel sensor but also get performance code for the lateral acceleration sensor would the steering angle sensor cause the lateral acceleration sensor to not work properly??
Great looking shop, nice work. 16:02
ty
Thank you very much for the excellent educational video. You have a beautiful garage 👍👍👍
I like avocados! :)
We need some tips on keeping avocados fresh for longer! I buy them and they are shit in no time!
Love your videos I’m zone 8b if I could grow avocado I would
Beatiful place to work myRatchets 🥰👍
Ratchets, Wrenches and Avocados😊
Excellent video very useful
Love avocados!!! Great garage
Hello, Im having an issue with my 2007 hyundai sonata v6 limited.
It happens randomly but its driving me crazy. Im going ti try to explain as best as I can. While driving all of the suddden my ESC OFF lights starts blinking while the car feels like is dragging its tires. Well now the minute I turn on my headlights or I flash my high beams it does it all over again. Also while that is happening which it last for a few seconds. I noticed a noise/buzz from under the steering wheel. Im scared of driving now because I dont want to gwt into an accident because I dont know when the car is going to act up or how bad it will do it.
Sounds like one or more of your Brake Calipers are locking up.
Garage looks sweet
👍👍👍