These are the Tools and Equipment I Recommend: Good Basic Multimeter- amzn.to/2IxRMM8 Good Basic DC Amp Clamp- amzn.to/3aygR5E Power Probe Voltage Drop Fuse Charts: www.powerprobe.com/fuse-voltage-drop-charts As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Thanks alot I'm dealing with parasitic draw and my 2013 f150 right now. The battery goes dead after sitting for 5 days. I do know I have a bad wire going to my h13 headlight connector, and broken wires and the rear door harness. should I fix these problem before doing the test? Could these be my problem to parasitic draw.
Please help me. I have followed your video about remote control start and now Everytime I do it the antitheft runs . What should I do Ford fusion 2012 v4
Another great video. I started using Di Grease on my terminals like you suggested which has fixed my corrosion problems. Can you please do a video on rack replacement on the '08-'10 edge or similar vehicle. Space looks limited and the repair looks a bit scary because the sub frame probably has to be lowered. My rack doesn't leak but I can feel the play is in the rack attaching to the inner tie rod. It's moving all over the place especially the y direction. I've heard to check the U joint but that wouldn't explain the play in the rack itself.
I am a retired electrical technician with 44 years of experience and I have to say this is the best video I've seen to troubleshoot a parasitic drain on a automotive battery.
Sure isn't like the old days unhook the battery cable put a test light in line start pulling fuses till test light goes out then that's the circuit you're loose before and even before I've been in a trunk made sure light was out door jam some light checks I grew in my Dads Standard Oil Division American Oil Company of Indiana Service was around it all my life he was there 52+yrs Standard he went independent for a bit then was UNOCAL 76 his remaining starting in the late 30s early 40s was there 50s till drafted WWII B52 AIRPLANE mechanic and instructor came home bought the station back I was born 1960 the year Standard built finished his new station 1958-59 Regrandopening 1960 I started full time nights at age 12 eventually went out on my own built a three bay three in ground lifts service center for 25yrs all the time never forgetting where I came from if he called I ran to help him I built my shop almost identical to his station by buying out old stations that were going on the chopping block to build convenient stores got things cheap lot of work jack hammering pulling the lifts out first one did completely by hand enough said I still like to tinker I'm 63yrs old
Pump mechanic and motor control tech for 16 years here. I agree with you 100% best vid I've seen on the subject! Gonna save me hours of time on my Ford 6.0
Great video. One more step I like to add when there are multiple fuse boxes and that there's not too much trim to be removed to access the wiring to it, I go amp clamp on battery first, then I move to the power distribution block that splits the power to the different fuse boxes. This way, you can pinpoint which box the draw is coming out off. Saves you many fuaes to check. I work at Mercedes and they have A LOT of fuses to check.
Hello Brian: I watch all your videos & am impressed by your no BS approach to troubleshooting & effecting repairs, properly done, & expertly executed. Parasitic draw can be a real challenge & I use Fluke meters with "max-min" capabilities, & I use a Fluke "amp clamp" & I have "centre zero" ammeters that shows the direction of current flow as well. I am NOT a mechanic, have no certificates or licenses as such, but I troubleshoot & repair electrical, electronic, & hydraulic faults with agricultural equipment. Tractors, trucks, combines, swathers, air drills etc.. I am 80 years of age & I don't do any physical work....I tell people to remove a part, or to crawl into some restricted space to put a meter lead on something or other, & I interpret the meter(s). I am amazed that mechanics, generally speaking, have little or no understanding of electrics or hydraulics. I always laugh when I am asked where I went to school to learn how to fix these things. I made my living at communications radio & radar, & I still do "call outs" for oil & gas companies to fix SCADA equipment. It keeps my brain active & the challenge is a lot of fun. I was pleased to see you open your own shop Brian, because I know you will do well. You are the right man in the right job. Cheers! Brian
I'm with you on this. A fluke plus amp clamp with min/max PLUS I use some fluke extender cables as some vehicles, like my Range Rover, have fuse blocks front, back and in the middle of the car. The extenders allow me to have the meter where I'm testing fuses.
Retired electronics engineering technician here. I could solve a lot of problems like this but would need younger people to do the physical stuff. I am also able to interpret the results from the higher end data analysers that read and operate circuits from the OCB. It's like second nature, learned from years of school and decades of experience. Not that many old school electronics people left, the schools don't teach electronics like that anymore. Funny, now it's now the computer controlled machinery that needs our kind of knowledge.
@@OriginalThinker_ I can say I'm impressed. I'm good at every other part of anything with wheels, or making it look good but this stuff is hard to soak up. Anyone who can has my respect. To have all that is amazing. I see so many just load the parts cannon and spend who knows how much on parts, sensors etc.
Hi brian I really enjoyed your comment to Brian I am impressed with your ability if your ever in edmonton drop me a line mybe we could have coffee and swop some stories
Been a pro tech for over 20 years, just started at a Ford dealership. Became one of the top diagnostic guys real quick. I have to say, I've learned a lot watching your videos, Thanks.
This is why I subbed to you. Being an effective mechanic is a big enough thing. Being an effective teacher especially now is really hard to find and getting harder with the retirement and fed up crunch. Being patient enough to demonstrate all 3 methods to this level of quality is yet another thing. Thank You!!! 3 yr old vid but feel the Love. 👍👍
This guy is my goto reference mechanic. He's been the most accurate and I have done all of my maintenance on my Explorer Sport using his videos. Kudos sir! Keep em coming!
Well done clearly explained. I have 57 years experience self taught and still working and it's listening to people like you that clearly know what they're talking I keep up to speed with developments
UK been the service manager of a small garage for 43 years. This is a superb video. Very easy to follow. The heat gun test of the fuse box is super easy, Ideal first test if car has been left overnight all asleep to pick up that warm circuit. Min Max function also proves a fault simply. Many Thanks. ( PS it is worth pointing out that the amp clamp needs to read DC , there are many on the market that only read AC )
I have a 2009 Escape that was running the battery completely dead overnight (now Jan 2023). My strategy was to pull fuses but that takes a long time. Due to brilliant Ford engineering, the rear latch is inoperable (apparently a common problem) so that was my first thought. Nope, still went flat overnight. Did some searching and found a number of complaints about the power seats shorting out so I pulled that fuse. Nope. Then my brother-in-law sent me this video. With the engine running, I turned on the rear wiper and it did not operate so it suggested it was the problem. I pulled that fuse. That was the problem so I did not actually have to follow up with this process. Thank you, now I know the best approach to do the parasitic draw testing. I have a decent DMM but not the amp clamp. And also much thanks to the brilliant Ford engineers who designed the circuitry to allow the rear wiper to run the battery flat overnight, such a genius approach to drive more people to the Ford service centres... Ridiculous.
Have a 08 Odyssey, would not start after driving to school/store. A boost would get it started. Last week wife got stranded, towed home for testing. Pulled MG. Clutch fuse while poking around. Put it back in 20 minutes later, started up!! So released the compressor clutch using fuse. Heading outside to check relay. Thanks, great video
I am a retired Electrical Engineer that was long ago an ASE Certified Master Technician. This video is by far the best explanation of how to fine a parasitic draw on modern vehicles. Well done!
Brian, that was invaluable!! Those intermittent parasitic losses have aggravated us for YEARS. Your method is sound, and thanks for disproving what some say is the "right" method! I'm going to tell you an old story, if you've got a few minutes. I was a Lincoln/Mercury Line Tech, a few years before you.... EEC II and III were still out and harassing us!! 😖😖 EEC IV was only recent then, when I had my only claim to fame... 1991, the first Town Cars on the Panther platform were hitting the market. Several were coming in with heavy Battery drain concerns. Immediate diagnosis was the Voltage Regulators. So Techs replaced VRs and Alternators..... But they kept coming BACK. Same concern! SOMETHING was killing VRs... And guys were searching miles of wiring, to no avail. Customers were of course, getting frustrated. So were we! One day, I decided to get fundamental... I opened an EVTM. Almost by accident, I FOUND the problem! 91-92 Panther Vehicles WITH Heated Windshields - the CHARGING CIRCUIT went from Battery to Alternator, to *Heated Windshield Module,* to Voltage Regulator... And the Vehicle I was working on, had a Cracked Windshield. Turned out, the crack in the Windshield, SHORTED out the Heated Windshield Module, thus losing any signal to the VR!! 😳 .... After fighting with the Dispatcher, I got to order a new Windshield and Module. Didn't touch the Alternator or Regulator... FIXED permanently! Ford ordered a TSB (should have been a recall) for a wiring Harness shunt between Alternator and Regulator, and changes were made by the 93 model year!! You ever come across an issue like that? Carmine ✈🚂🚙
I've noticed that the most common parasitic draw on a GM product is every single module and wire connector in the vehicle! I hate GM electrical problems. Great video!!
I laugh to myself when GMers talk bunk about Ford or ChryCo electrical problems. Obviously they never worked on theirs. Got a good friend in Chicago with a 2019 Traverse, already having phantom electrical issues & had it back for warranty work 4 times.
@@rays7437 for starters they use the thinnest wiring I ever encountered. And run it in such a way that a lot of stress is caused on the wiring itself. The rest is, unfortunately, a byproduct of modern features. A damn module for every single little thing, lead free solder with no flexibility, ridiculously complex electrical architecture, the list goes on.... In other words, overpriced junk!
No Chrysler is the worst. I had to build whole new wiring harness. As thy mount the ECM under the front fender well. Then run the Coil pack wiring harness sunder the Intake. The place that is the hottest. As that wiring harness cost $350.00 US.. I can build one using automotive grade wiring for under hood use for $100.00 US... Just buy a pin out kit. Easy as making a cake....
I’ve watched 50 how to videos for this and everytime I get more confused and mix together the different methods and have no clue wtf I’m doing. This video is the BEST. I understand each method now and how to work the damn multimeter 🙌. That was the worst part was everyone had a different meter than mine and nobody clearly explained anything about it. You’re a good teacher. Subscribed. THANK YOU 😊
As another poster below mentioned... if you find it necessary to pull multiple fuses, take a couple of photos of the fuse box before hand. It only takes a second & can later save a lot of grief in figuring out what went where. Don't ask how I know. Great videos, Thanks!
You will commonly find what value goes where on the inside of the fuse cover you ripped off and threw in the backseat... Don't ask how i found out either xD
An alternative to an amp clamp is to use two meters, one as an amp measuring device and the other as a millivolt device. I would suggest this as you can get the vehicle to sleep and then use the min/max function to monitor for awhile to determine if you have a major draw without having to visually monitor the amp clamp for a period of time. Excellent video and explanation of the various methods and reasons for using two methods at the same time.
Excellent subject Brian. I’m a life long Ford owner so I enjoy your content and find it very helpful. I also work in technical service for power generation equipment so I know first hand what goes into taking complex topics such as this and distilling them down into actionable steps that a technician or DIYer can take to understand, identify and resolve a problem. Thank you for taking the time, effort and care to share your knowledge. This is hands down one of the best resources on TH-cam!
@@Lobatschewsky The camera is really a valuable tool... and for much more than mere fuses! Photograph anything that might be potentially confusing going back together.
What a great video! Thank you for taking the time to show the different methods and what works. We have been having an issue for close to 9 months off and on. We have a f350 6.0 2005, had a shop put in all new injectors, HPOP and they installed a used wire harness. A week later I was at a stop and it died in gear. Brought it back and they replaced the batteries (I know….stupid). Got it home and a few days later same issue. We then bought an alternator and installed it ourselves. Truck ran great for about 6 months. One day, drove to work and parked. About an hour later hopped in to run to the bank and the tick sound happened. Batteries dead. Batteries tested bad and decided to buy new batteries and another new alternator (thinking it was a bad alternator-it happens). Installed all ourselves. About 2 weeks later, hop in to go to work and she wouldn’t start. Battery output 11.6 and dropping. Jumped the truck, let her run about 5 mins and tested batteries. Output dropping as she was running. Went from 11.5 off to running-dropping down to 9.6….I’m researching what would cause draw intermittently. It happens sometimes and usually is fine for a couple months once we replace alt and batt. We are at a loss.if anyone has any advice, I would appreciate it. I am sorry to asking here.
I'm old school, I have been using various combinations of these methods for years. Starting with the amp clamp to determine how much draw there is and whether its constant or intermittent. The result determines the next step, if it's reasonably high draw even an IR thermometer can tell you which fuse it is. Totally agree non invasive is best, pulling the wrong fuses can set all sorts of codes and require a scanner to erase them again. This adds more time to the job and cost to the customer unnecessarily.
I can't thank you enough for this video. I have been a tech for 30 years , I own and run my own shop up here in Ontario , Canada. I had a dodge avenger come in with a draw issue . 4 amp draw , for approximately 90 seconds and then zero for 2 mins . Using the last technique you showed, I had this car figured out in 20 mins . center console had a phone charger plugged in! thank you for all the awesome vids you post . Rob
The thermal imaging camera is worth its weight in gold. It has endless applications for diagnostic work. I was glad to see you used it to point to the suspect fuse.
Thank you, this worked great. I don't have an amp clamp, so I used the tried and true method. My fuse box is under the hood and trunk, so I just shut everything off and closed the doors, didn't lock the doors because that would turn on the factory security system. Hook up my meter to neg side, heard something clicking towards the back of the vehicle. Meter reading was 4.56, after a minute or so it dropped to .19, let it sit for about 2 hours then went and checked it, .02. So my parasitic draw is under .05 milliamps. Great method, thanks.
You are a very accomplished tech. I do enjoy these general troubleshooting videos because they can be applied beyond the Ford brand on any vehicle and appeal to a wider viewership. I’m grateful that this channel continues to provide serious and well researched mechanical content instead of mass produced clickbait opinion pieces. Two thumbs up!
Great video, I work on a fleet of E450 public buses with a whole host of add on crap. This should be a shop training video for all mechanics but our manager doesn't believe in training.
You make a good point, intermittent problems are always the stumbling block. My amp clamp isn't very accurate at low current levels, but the ability to measure without disconnecting anything is lots easier. Also you'll never fry the amp clamp like you will if you exceed the 10 amp maximum in line. What I like about the drop test across fuses is that (when it works) you quickly know which circuit is involved. Even in the example you showed, it did work when the circuit was drawing current. Excellent point about intermittent draw, and cool the way your IR camera found it.
We use the traditional amp meter in series at my Ford dealership. I never thought the mV to mA reading conversion method was a good idea. Also love how you also use a shop rag to insulate terminal end from the battery post. A Senior Master at my dealership showed me that trick! Pretty slick. I also use a parasitic draw tester set of leads that have much larger amp clamps that can easily fit over battery posts. Plus if you make a mistake and over load meter it's a simple ATO fuse to change that cost pennies. We also try to have a draw of 20 mA or less. Always love your content!
As a non-mechanic, I once had to track down an intermittent drain in my car. I do do electronics, so I tried connecting a multimeter on a low DCV range (20mV or 200mV, I can't remember which) between battery negative and the vehicle body, basically using the negative battery lead and its ground connection as an in-situ current sense resistor. That gave me a reading I could roughly calibrate by comparing readings with/without headlights on and using the nominal power draw of the head/tail lamp bulbs, and meant I didn't have to disconnect anything to get usable information. I made up a long lead on thin wires with croc clips on the battery end so that I could have the meter inside the car where the fuses were, and since one wire was ground and the negative battery connection was virtually at ground I was happy to have them (suitably taped down) running out from under the closed hood and in round the edge of the passenger door to the meter even while driving, since there wasn't any risk of high currents flowing even if they ended up getting pinched or worn and grounded to the body. Not a precise solution by any means, but easily good enough for me to track down the issue (fan thermostat causing a slow intermittent drain which didn't seem to be there when everything was fully cold, and which would only start after running the engine and then letting everything cool down for a while).
I agree with the other comments, best parasitic draw video on TH-cam. This channel has helped me with my neighbor's 2005 f 150 so many times. Thanks for the great content.
Great video and explanation. With almost 30 years as a mechanic, I agree 100% with your chosen method. Thanks for the great videos and keep up the good quality work.
You would really like the Fluke 381. It's a clamp-on V.O.M. with a detachable readout. You can clamp the meter on your battery cable, detach the readout and take it with you to the passenger compartment fuse box or any other place around the car and pull your fuses or wiggle the wires and see your readings. It's not cheap though.
Brian: The thing about running your own shop is that you can use whatever method of troubleshooting you deem the best, & no one else can tell you that you HAVE to do it THEIR way. I very much enjoy your videos, & wish you success in your new venue. Cheers! from the windswept hinterlands of Alberta Canada Brian Hind
I am glad you brought this up. I recently diagnosed a 2011 Nissan Murano with a drain that killed the battery in about 4 to 5 days. I used the millevolt test across the fuses and could not find the drain. I tested every fused circuit twice and nothing. I then disconnected the negative battery terminal and installed my meter in series and in milleamp setting. I found a milleamp draw of 139 millamps after all the ECU's and modules went to sleep. This is way above the 50 to 85 that is considered acceptable for a vehicle of this year. After testing every fused circuit under hood and under dash I found the interior light circuit was the culprit. Although the interior lights worked well I found the the BCM was drawing to much current in this circuit. I agree that this new method may not work well at all times.
A quality amp clamp and that wiz-bang thermal meter is the ticket short cutting diagnostic turn around time. Thanks for this comprehensive overview using both the new vs. tried and true methods debugging parasitic draw. Great presentation!
Brilliant tutorial though I may have to watch it another 25 times to fully comprehend what I'm doing. Feel more confident in tackling my vehicles power drain now. Many thanks
The best video explaining the best method to test for a drain on the battery. Thank you for taking the time to make the most detailed and informative video on the subject! 👍👍👍
Could have used this video a week ago! Ran through these same tests and found my rear wiper on my 2004 Ford Expedition had the same problem. Very Ironic. Thanks for all your Great videos!
Very nice job sir. So many people aren't even appreciating that just making a video alone these days is a lot of work and giving up your time for others...yet they have negative things to say. Unbelievable. This was great info for me as I know a good amount about electrical on cars for many years but never got the details on how to do it the best way using meters verses the old school way with a test light. Just knowing the minimum milliamp figure cars put out today is good info to confirm there is no major draw. I do aftermarket work and its all good to know. Keep up the great work....God rewards those who dont just think of themselves!
I've watched dozens of videos on the subject. Currently trying to find a parasitic draw on a Jeep with a million add-ons/mods. The method I was used to was the old school one of pulling every single fuse one by one. But I was replacing the fuses after it didn't seem to make a difference. Plus I wasn't waiting long enough before replacing. Your video was not only informative, but you went through 'the why' and then demonstrated. We got to see the demonstration after we knew 'the why', and it all made sense. Consider teaching You are good at it.
Excellent vid. Some of us DIY'ers have industry electrical backgrounds and already have the assorted meter collection . So your Ford vehicle experience based tutorials are refreshing.
This is likely the best video on testing for parasitic drains. Well worth watching the 3 methods and fully understand whats happening and how to locate the circuit. Thanks!
I have been an industrial controls electrician for over 30 years and also work on my own vehicles too. I truly enjoy learning new techniques like this. This makes sense to do these tests like this, just needed to see it and apply my knowledge in this way. Had that, ah ha moment! Great video!.
Like always a true mechanic explaining things properly I love the method 3 test I just had a problem just like this and I used the method 3 with the amp clamp and I wasted no time testing fuses when the draw was not happening
I'm not a mechanic, but like working on cars. This video was right on time for me because we think my sister's Ford conversion van has a parasitic draw, and thanks to you I can now track it down if there is one. Count me as a new subscriber, thanks for sharing your knowledge, and keep up great work!!!
Great job, well done. I like your method of monitoring the Amp meter while Parasitic draw is occurring and backing it up with the fuse voltage drop. I have done the Amp method draw and did find the circuit that way while removing fuses, but as you say you run into the possibility of "waking up" components, then slows you down.
NOT A MECHANIC AM I ,BUT DUE TO YOUR WONDERFUL PATIENCE AND CONFIDENT APPROACH , EVEN I WAS ABLE TO COMPREHEND THE FANTASTIC INFORMATION BEING OFFERED . DAMN YOUR GOOD ,BRIAN ,THANK YOU . A PH.D MASTER CLASS . VINCE..
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to help. This problem seems to be more and more common as the standard 12v power distribution system gets more and more complex and taxed with more and more technology and accessory features.
Your comment made me think. Why not go to a higher voltage system. This would allow the use of smaller gauge wires and less of the precious metal copper. Even the standard GM wiring might work properly!
I know nothing about cars, but have an issue that two shops couldn't or would not try to figure out. I watched multiple videos and this made me confident enough to try doing it myself.
Using a current probe with a slow sweep on a digital oscilloscope would show if the draw is periodic in nature and just how long it takes before you have to set up for the next probing session.
Great instruction ! I am going to pass this along - including to someone who has a long standing radio program on cars . That thermal imaging camera is a fine tool that has a variety of uses .
Excellent. Great job. As a tech myself and with 16 ASE certificates it is easy to remember and using the visual walk around makes it even more easy. Damn engineers.
If we ever meet up in real life, I owe you a libation of your choosing. My 02 GT has a helluva draw and this will definitely help me identify it. Thanks for posting this up
As a 35 year veteran automotive tech and a shop owner, I had not heard of this “method” until you demonstrated it. I instinctively knew all the problems with it as you cited.....there’s simply no substitute for in-series current measurement, especially with intermittent (or highly intermittent) draws and the ability to set a multimeter to “min-max” for long-term measurement/recording. Cheers!
Edit: as a “quick and dirty” method of isolating a constant or suspected draw I can see value in this type of testing....but only in specific cases. I would probably modify the procedure and go from battery positive to the suspected fuse and dispense with the “chart”.... just looking for abnormal voltage drop to confirm a suspect circuit. Having said that, if the draw is general and no obvious cause is present, I’d go straight to the old faithful in-line current draw tests. Cheers!~
Except on cars that draws in weeks and not in one night. You can see it even on this video that the current clamp resets the zero value after current spike. Set up at 33:20 (~60mA draw) reset at 34:06 (0mA draw) while DVOM tells you the true value when in line done correctly without disconnecting the battery at any time from the car.
Your Tried and true method has been used for 30 plus years and there is a reason for it. Set it up including module shut down time and open up shunt so meter becomes path for battery, meter on mi/max and walk away. Come back periodically and check the meter. Process of elimination of each sub ckt for draw. Method of your choice. That easy. Honestly a visual observation and good ears will lead you down the right path if you have experience.
In my opinion it's always best to start with the amp clamp. I've had a few draws over 10 amps that can blow the fuse in the meter if you do the inline method.
Ok hands down this is the best explanation to how to properly find a draw. Explained perfectly for simple minds like myself. Thanks for making and posting this.
great video! Thanks. my 2006 f150 has a draw. if i dont drive it for 3 or 4 days it nearly kills the battery. youve given me plenty of info to tackle this problem if i can just get around to it.
retired automotive electrical tech here, before computers came along! well done video. learned a lot from this. I long for the days when a car didn't think for itself...
Electricity 101 👍 The new fluke meters are even better. Some have detachable display or can be paired wirelessly to your phone, which is very handy when troubleshooting
Great video Brian. I'll admit that I had a hard time concentrating once I saw a french fry leaning up against the driver's side shock tower, (around 27 minutes in). As informative as you were, I couldn't help but wonder how the hell a fry gets under the hood in the first place. Besides the fry, very good video.
Great video. Clear and very understandable. Thanks from a current Ford EESE Engineer for spreading correct procedures. And usable clamp style meters can be purchased for around $100 or less making it within reach of the DIYer.
Great video. One thing, I like turn my meter on first and set the mode (volts, amps etc) before testing , not connect the meter with it off, then cycle through the modes to the correct one on a live circuit.
Excellent presentation. Thank You. I really like your IR heat gun test. Theoretically... if your Multimeter has the ability to read temperatures you should be able to read each fuse temperature, thus determining the "hot " fuse. Have you ever tried this?
I suggest leaving the aftermarket items connected for the draw test. Just make them the first thing that you unplug after you have varified that the problem currently exists.
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These are the Tools and Equipment I Recommend:
Good Basic Multimeter-
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Thanks brother. I'm just learning electrical trouble shooting. This will help a LOT. 👍😎
Thanks alot I'm dealing with parasitic draw and my 2013 f150 right now. The battery goes dead after sitting for 5 days.
I do know I have a bad wire going to my h13 headlight connector, and broken wires and the rear door harness.
should I fix these problem before doing the test?
Could these be my problem to parasitic draw.
Please help me. I have followed your video about remote control start and now Everytime I do it the antitheft runs . What should I do Ford fusion 2012 v4
Do you know how to fix the gem on like a 98 f150 that has a phantom parasitic draw
Another great video. I started using Di Grease on my terminals like you suggested which has fixed my corrosion problems. Can you please do a video on rack replacement on the '08-'10 edge or similar vehicle. Space looks limited and the repair looks a bit scary because the sub frame probably has to be lowered. My rack doesn't leak but I can feel the play is in the rack attaching to the inner tie rod. It's moving all over the place especially the y direction. I've heard to check the U joint but that wouldn't explain the play in the rack itself.
I am a retired electrical technician with 44 years of experience and I have to say this is the best video I've seen to troubleshoot a parasitic drain on a automotive battery.
Amen, brother.
For sure ... Fantastic ... !
Sure isn't like the old days unhook the battery cable put a test light in line start pulling fuses till test light goes out then that's the circuit you're loose before and even before I've been in a trunk made sure light was out door jam some light checks I grew in my Dads Standard Oil Division American Oil Company of Indiana Service was around it all my life he was there 52+yrs Standard he went independent for a bit then was UNOCAL 76 his remaining starting in the late 30s early 40s was there 50s till drafted WWII B52 AIRPLANE mechanic and instructor came home bought the station back I was born 1960 the year Standard built finished his new station 1958-59 Regrandopening 1960 I started full time nights at age 12 eventually went out on my own built a three bay three in ground lifts service center for 25yrs all the time never forgetting where I came from if he called I ran to help him I built my shop almost identical to his station by buying out old stations that were going on the chopping block to build convenient stores got things cheap lot of work jack hammering pulling the lifts out first one did completely by hand enough said I still like to tinker I'm 63yrs old
Thank you for sharing your insights.
Pump mechanic and motor control tech for 16 years here. I agree with you 100% best vid I've seen on the subject! Gonna save me hours of time on my Ford 6.0
Great video.
One more step I like to add when there are multiple fuse boxes and that there's not too much trim to be removed to access the wiring to it, I go amp clamp on battery first, then I move to the power distribution block that splits the power to the different fuse boxes. This way, you can pinpoint which box the draw is coming out off. Saves you many fuaes to check. I work at Mercedes and they have A LOT of fuses to check.
Where did you get that data from
@@johnsauto5262 I'm sorry, I'm not sure I understand what you mean.
What data are you referring to?
@@alexlongpre4527
@@alexlongpre4527 the sheets he is reading off of is that info from all data
@@johnsauto5262 from the power probe website
i have 25+ year in the Auto repair business and THIS is the best video I have seen, covering Parasitic draw and voltage drop! OUTSTANDING
i agree
Yea he is the man.
@Bruce Lee Been having issues with my Escape and have looked at numerous videos, this one is by far the best.
The best explanations
Agreed 👌
For inexperienced folks, take a picture of the fuse box before you start, you don’t want to mix the fuses and put them back wrong
Great suggestion
Hello Brian: I watch all your videos & am impressed by your no BS approach to troubleshooting & effecting repairs, properly done, & expertly executed. Parasitic draw can be a real challenge & I use Fluke meters with "max-min" capabilities, & I use a Fluke "amp clamp" & I have "centre zero" ammeters that shows the direction of current flow as well. I am NOT a mechanic, have no certificates or licenses as such, but I troubleshoot & repair electrical, electronic, & hydraulic faults with agricultural equipment. Tractors, trucks, combines, swathers, air drills etc.. I am 80 years of age & I don't do any physical work....I tell people to remove a part, or to crawl into some restricted space to put a meter lead on something or other, & I interpret the meter(s). I am amazed that mechanics, generally speaking, have little or no understanding of electrics or hydraulics. I always laugh when I am asked where I went to school to learn how to fix these things. I made my living at communications radio & radar, & I still do "call outs" for oil & gas companies to fix SCADA equipment. It keeps my brain active & the challenge is a lot of fun. I was pleased to see you open your own shop Brian, because I know you will do well. You are the right man in the right job.
Cheers! Brian
I'm with you on this. A fluke plus amp clamp with min/max PLUS I use some fluke extender cables as some vehicles, like my Range Rover, have fuse blocks front, back and in the middle of the car. The extenders allow me to have the meter where I'm testing fuses.
Retired electronics engineering technician here. I could solve a lot of problems like this but would need younger people to do the physical stuff.
I am also able to interpret the results from the higher end data analysers that read and operate circuits from the OCB. It's like second nature, learned from years of school and decades of experience.
Not that many old school electronics people left, the schools don't teach electronics like that anymore.
Funny, now it's now the computer controlled machinery that needs our kind of knowledge.
@@OriginalThinker_ I can say I'm impressed. I'm good at every other part of anything with wheels, or making it look good but this stuff is hard to soak up. Anyone who can has my respect. To have all that is amazing. I see so many just load the parts cannon and spend who knows how much on parts, sensors etc.
I love your motivation
Hi brian I really enjoyed your comment to Brian I am impressed with your ability if your ever in edmonton drop me a line mybe we could have coffee and swop some stories
I have 96 years in the automotive industry and this is by far the best video on electrical paristic diagnostics i have ever seen
I have 98
96 years?
Wow lol you must have been born in 1800s
I think he meant 98 months. Lol
As a man with 60 years experience who's only 45 I would agree.
Been a pro tech for over 20 years, just started at a Ford dealership. Became one of the top diagnostic guys real quick. I have to say, I've learned a lot watching your videos, Thanks.
This is why I subbed to you. Being an effective mechanic is a big enough thing. Being an effective teacher especially now is really hard to find and getting harder with the retirement and fed up crunch. Being patient enough to demonstrate all 3 methods to this level of quality is yet another thing. Thank You!!! 3 yr old vid but feel the Love. 👍👍
This guy is my goto reference mechanic. He's been the most accurate and I have done all of my maintenance on my Explorer Sport using his videos. Kudos sir! Keep em coming!
Best explanation on how to find a parasitic draw ever. Various methods, to the point and easy to understand. Thanks!!!
Well done clearly explained. I have 57 years experience self taught and still working and it's listening to people like you that clearly know what they're talking I keep up to speed with developments
Very well said, Colin
UK been the service manager of a small garage for 43 years. This is a superb video. Very easy to follow. The heat gun test of the fuse box is super easy, Ideal first test if car has been left overnight all asleep to pick up that warm circuit. Min Max function also proves a fault simply. Many Thanks. ( PS it is worth pointing out that the amp clamp needs to read DC , there are many on the market that only read AC )
I have a 2009 Escape that was running the battery completely dead overnight (now Jan 2023). My strategy was to pull fuses but that takes a long time. Due to brilliant Ford engineering, the rear latch is inoperable (apparently a common problem) so that was my first thought. Nope, still went flat overnight. Did some searching and found a number of complaints about the power seats shorting out so I pulled that fuse. Nope. Then my brother-in-law sent me this video. With the engine running, I turned on the rear wiper and it did not operate so it suggested it was the problem. I pulled that fuse. That was the problem so I did not actually have to follow up with this process.
Thank you, now I know the best approach to do the parasitic draw testing. I have a decent DMM but not the amp clamp.
And also much thanks to the brilliant Ford engineers who designed the circuitry to allow the rear wiper to run the battery flat overnight, such a genius approach to drive more people to the Ford service centres... Ridiculous.
Have a 08 Odyssey, would not start after driving to school/store. A boost would get it started.
Last week wife got stranded, towed home for testing.
Pulled MG. Clutch fuse while poking around. Put it back in 20 minutes later, started up!!
So released the compressor clutch using fuse. Heading outside to check relay.
Thanks, great video
I've used the old tried and true method for years and I appreciate you teaching others how to do this properly. good job
I am a retired Electrical Engineer that was long ago an ASE Certified Master Technician. This video is by far the best explanation of how to fine a parasitic draw on modern vehicles. Well done!
Brian, that was invaluable!! Those intermittent parasitic losses have aggravated us for YEARS. Your method is sound, and thanks for disproving what some say is the "right" method!
I'm going to tell you an old story, if you've got a few minutes.
I was a Lincoln/Mercury Line Tech, a few years before you....
EEC II and III were still out and harassing us!! 😖😖
EEC IV was only recent then, when I had my only claim to fame...
1991, the first Town Cars on the Panther platform were hitting the market. Several were coming in with heavy Battery drain concerns.
Immediate diagnosis was the Voltage Regulators. So Techs replaced VRs and Alternators.....
But they kept coming BACK. Same concern!
SOMETHING was killing VRs... And guys were searching miles of wiring, to no avail. Customers were of course, getting frustrated. So were we!
One day, I decided to get fundamental... I opened an EVTM.
Almost by accident, I FOUND the problem!
91-92 Panther Vehicles WITH Heated Windshields - the CHARGING CIRCUIT went from Battery to Alternator, to *Heated Windshield Module,* to Voltage Regulator...
And the Vehicle I was working on, had a Cracked Windshield.
Turned out, the crack in the Windshield, SHORTED out the Heated Windshield Module, thus losing any signal to the VR!! 😳
.... After fighting with the Dispatcher, I got to order a new Windshield and Module.
Didn't touch the Alternator or Regulator...
FIXED permanently!
Ford ordered a TSB (should have been a recall) for a wiring Harness shunt between Alternator and Regulator, and changes were made by the 93 model year!!
You ever come across an issue like that?
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Nice job… thanks for your professional expertise and your teaching heart! God bless you
I've noticed that the most common parasitic draw on a GM product is every single module and wire connector in the vehicle! I hate GM electrical problems. Great video!!
I laugh to myself when GMers talk bunk about Ford or ChryCo electrical problems. Obviously they never worked on theirs.
Got a good friend in Chicago with a 2019 Traverse, already having phantom electrical issues & had it back for warranty work 4 times.
@@acemobile9806 Ugh. What is it with GM and electrical problems?
@@rays7437 for starters they use the thinnest wiring I ever encountered. And run it in such a way that a lot of stress is caused on the wiring itself. The rest is, unfortunately, a byproduct of modern features. A damn module for every single little thing, lead free solder with no flexibility, ridiculously complex electrical architecture, the list goes on....
In other words, overpriced junk!
No Chrysler is the worst. I had to build whole new wiring harness. As thy mount the ECM under the front fender well. Then run the Coil pack wiring harness sunder the Intake. The place that is the hottest. As that wiring harness cost $350.00 US.. I can build one using automotive grade wiring for under hood use for $100.00 US... Just buy a pin out kit. Easy as making a cake....
Yes sir and they have a bunch of ground issues also.
I’ve watched 50 how to videos for this and everytime I get more confused and mix together the different methods and have no clue wtf I’m doing. This video is the BEST. I understand each method now and how to work the damn multimeter 🙌. That was the worst part was everyone had a different meter than mine and nobody clearly explained anything about it. You’re a good teacher. Subscribed. THANK YOU 😊
As another poster below mentioned... if you find it necessary to pull multiple fuses, take a couple of photos of the fuse box before hand. It only takes a second & can later save a lot of grief in figuring out what went where. Don't ask how I know. Great videos, Thanks!
You will commonly find what value goes where on the inside of the fuse cover you ripped off and threw in the backseat... Don't ask how i found out either xD
Thanks ☺️ very useful
An alternative to an amp clamp is to use two meters, one as an amp measuring device and the other as a millivolt device. I would suggest this as you can get the vehicle to sleep and then use the min/max function to monitor for awhile to determine if you have a major draw without having to visually monitor the amp clamp for a period of time. Excellent video and explanation of the various methods and reasons for using two methods at the same time.
Excellent subject Brian. I’m a life long Ford owner so I enjoy your content and find it very helpful. I also work in technical service for power generation equipment so I know first hand what goes into taking complex topics such as this and distilling them down into actionable steps that a technician or DIYer can take to understand, identify and resolve a problem. Thank you for taking the time, effort and care to share your knowledge. This is hands down one of the best resources on TH-cam!
life long ford owner?! you masochist or something?
I like your third method. You are testing for a drop across the fuse, while eliminating the temporary nature of the parasitic draw. Good, clear video.
It's also a good idea to photo fuse boxes prior to removing fuses so you know where to replace them.
"It's also a good idea to photo fuse boxes prior to removing fuses so you know where to replace them."
Indeed!
If you still have your owners manual, it shows where they go in there.
@@richardhill2684 True... but you often don't have that luxury working in a shop environment.
This Beetle’s manual is extremely vague on the fuse information. I’ll be taking a picture.
@@Lobatschewsky The camera is really a valuable tool... and for much more than mere fuses! Photograph anything that might be potentially confusing going back together.
What a great video! Thank you for taking the time to show the different methods and what works. We have been having an issue for close to 9 months off and on. We have a f350 6.0 2005, had a shop put in all new injectors, HPOP and they installed a used wire harness. A week later I was at a stop and it died in gear. Brought it back and they replaced the batteries (I know….stupid). Got it home and a few days later same issue. We then bought an alternator and installed it ourselves. Truck ran great for about 6 months. One day, drove to work and parked. About an hour later hopped in to run to the bank and the tick sound happened. Batteries dead. Batteries tested bad and decided to buy new batteries and another new alternator (thinking it was a bad alternator-it happens). Installed all ourselves. About 2 weeks later, hop in to go to work and she wouldn’t start. Battery output 11.6 and dropping. Jumped the truck, let her run about 5 mins and tested batteries. Output dropping as she was running. Went from 11.5 off to running-dropping down to 9.6….I’m researching what would cause draw intermittently. It happens sometimes and usually is fine for a couple months once we replace alt and batt. We are at a loss.if anyone has any advice, I would appreciate it. I am sorry to asking here.
I'm old school, I have been using various combinations of these methods for years.
Starting with the amp clamp to determine how much draw there is and whether its constant or intermittent.
The result determines the next step, if it's reasonably high draw even an IR thermometer can tell you which fuse it is.
Totally agree non invasive is best, pulling the wrong fuses can set all sorts of codes and require a scanner to erase them again. This adds more time to the job and cost to the customer unnecessarily.
Been looking for new techniques.. Gosh, I like the thought of using IR technology to help find the source of my 12.5 Amp draw. Thanks Guy!
I’ve heard also pulling fuse can wake computer and you got start all over again
I can't thank you enough for this video. I have been a tech for 30 years , I own and run my own shop up here in Ontario , Canada. I had a dodge avenger come in with a draw issue . 4 amp draw , for approximately 90 seconds and then zero for 2 mins . Using the last technique you showed, I had this car figured out in 20 mins . center console had a phone charger plugged in! thank you for all the awesome vids you post .
Rob
Hello sir you want to tacnican I have experience 20years I am live to Pakistan please help me give me Job thanks allot ❣️
The thermal imaging camera is worth its weight in gold. It has endless applications for diagnostic work. I was glad to see you used it to point to the suspect fuse.
Indeed handy but also the newer ones have much greater visual detail.
also good checking people on ccp virus.
@@didipacheco1499based
@@jakelogan7542and...
Thank you, this worked great. I don't have an amp clamp, so I used the tried and true method. My fuse box is under the hood and trunk, so I just shut everything off and closed the doors, didn't lock the doors because that would turn on the factory security system. Hook up my meter to neg side, heard something clicking towards the back of the vehicle. Meter reading was 4.56, after a minute or so it dropped to .19, let it sit for about 2 hours then went and checked it, .02. So my parasitic draw is under .05 milliamps. Great method, thanks.
You are a very accomplished tech. I do enjoy these general troubleshooting videos because they can be applied beyond the Ford brand on any vehicle and appeal to a wider viewership. I’m grateful that this channel continues to provide serious and well researched mechanical content instead of mass produced clickbait opinion pieces. Two thumbs up!
I am in Western Technical College currently, and this video was super helpful in explaining Parasitic Draw. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
Great video, I work on a fleet of E450 public buses with a whole host of add on crap. This should be a shop training video for all mechanics but our manager doesn't believe in training.
How much time and money is WASTED on the parts cannon ? If they nail it the FIRST time , what is that worth ?
@@billsmith2212 Apparently too much of a hassle, rather rely on parts cannon. 😂
You make a good point, intermittent problems are always the stumbling block. My amp clamp isn't very accurate at low current levels, but the ability to measure without disconnecting anything is lots easier. Also you'll never fry the amp clamp like you will if you exceed the 10 amp maximum in line. What I like about the drop test across fuses is that (when it works) you quickly know which circuit is involved. Even in the example you showed, it did work when the circuit was drawing current. Excellent point about intermittent draw, and cool the way your IR camera found it.
We use the traditional amp meter in series at my Ford dealership. I never thought the mV to mA reading conversion method was a good idea. Also love how you also use a shop rag to insulate terminal end from the battery post. A Senior Master at my dealership showed me that trick! Pretty slick. I also use a parasitic draw tester set of leads that have much larger amp clamps that can easily fit over battery posts. Plus if you make a mistake and over load meter it's a simple ATO fuse to change that cost pennies. We also try to have a draw of 20 mA or less. Always love your content!
A modern "DC Amp clamp" meter from China ($40 Amazon) is really the way to go over in-line meter rated to 10Amps Max.
As a non-mechanic, I once had to track down an intermittent drain in my car.
I do do electronics, so I tried connecting a multimeter on a low DCV range (20mV or 200mV, I can't remember which) between battery negative and the vehicle body, basically using the negative battery lead and its ground connection as an in-situ current sense resistor. That gave me a reading I could roughly calibrate by comparing readings with/without headlights on and using the nominal power draw of the head/tail lamp bulbs, and meant I didn't have to disconnect anything to get usable information.
I made up a long lead on thin wires with croc clips on the battery end so that I could have the meter inside the car where the fuses were, and since one wire was ground and the negative battery connection was virtually at ground I was happy to have them (suitably taped down) running out from under the closed hood and in round the edge of the passenger door to the meter even while driving, since there wasn't any risk of high currents flowing even if they ended up getting pinched or worn and grounded to the body.
Not a precise solution by any means, but easily good enough for me to track down the issue (fan thermostat causing a slow intermittent drain which didn't seem to be there when everything was fully cold, and which would only start after running the engine and then letting everything cool down for a while).
I agree with the other comments, best parasitic draw video on TH-cam.
This channel has helped me with my neighbor's 2005 f 150 so many times.
Thanks for the great content.
Great video and explanation. With almost 30 years as a mechanic, I agree 100% with your chosen method. Thanks for the great videos and keep up the good quality work.
You would really like the Fluke 381. It's a clamp-on V.O.M. with a detachable readout. You can clamp the meter on your battery cable, detach the readout and take it with you to the passenger compartment fuse box or any other place around the car and pull your fuses or wiggle the wires and see your readings. It's not cheap though.
The man sure goes the extra mile to produce these outstanding videos. No problems here, I just thought it would be interesting, which it was.
Best explanation/tips I’ve viewed to this date. Well 4 years passed, too bad I missed this then, better late than never. Thank you May God Bless.
You can use the volt meter in series also. The draw on voltage drops as you pull fuses
Brian: The thing about running your own shop is that you can use whatever method of troubleshooting you deem the best, & no one else can tell you that you HAVE to do it THEIR way.
I very much enjoy your videos, & wish you success in your new venue. Cheers! from the windswept hinterlands of Alberta Canada Brian Hind
I have 86 years experience with automotive technology and this was the best video I've ever seen in my life
I am glad you brought this up. I recently diagnosed a 2011 Nissan Murano with a drain that killed the battery in about 4 to 5 days. I used the millevolt test across the fuses and could not find the drain. I tested every fused circuit twice and nothing. I then disconnected the negative battery terminal and installed my meter in series and in milleamp setting. I found a milleamp draw of 139 millamps after all the ECU's and modules went to sleep. This is way above the 50 to 85 that is considered acceptable for a vehicle of this year. After testing every fused circuit under hood and under dash I found the interior light circuit was the culprit. Although the interior lights worked well I found the the BCM was drawing to much current in this circuit. I agree that this new method may not work well at all times.
Thermal image looked mighty useful! 30 seconds or less!
Just another tool in the toolbox to make the job easier.
@@FordTechMakuloco on diesel exhaust manifolds i use it to check temp to see which cylinder is hitting cold...
@@FordTechMakuloco what if I don't have a key remote to lock and make car beep anymore. I have to lock it manually will this still make car sleep?
John Casor Yep. Before thermal cams, I used to use the old fingers to the exhaust manifold test.
@@FordTechMakuloco What is the make and model of the thermal imaging gun you used?
Just watched again. I love all the old videos when u were working at the dealer too. This channel is the best for learning to become a real Ford tech
A quality amp clamp and that wiz-bang thermal meter is the ticket short cutting diagnostic turn around time. Thanks for this comprehensive overview using both the new vs. tried and true methods debugging parasitic draw. Great presentation!
Worked at ford for 7 years and have to say this video is great for anyone with no knowledge of cars and a draw problem on their cars,
thank you for showing the difference in each way of diagnosing a power draws
Brilliant tutorial though I may have to watch it another 25 times to fully comprehend what I'm doing. Feel more confident in tackling my vehicles power drain now. Many thanks
The best video explaining the best method to test for a drain on the battery. Thank you for taking the time to make the most detailed and informative video on the subject! 👍👍👍
Brian you deserve a Grammy for your videos. So in depth and informative. Thx for putting in the effort to document and share your knowledge.
Could have used this video a week ago! Ran through these same tests and found my rear wiper on my 2004 Ford Expedition had the same problem. Very Ironic. Thanks for all your Great videos!
Certainly one of the best showcase of why TH-cam exist.
Clear and precise presentation of why, why not and how. Great content!
Very nice job sir. So many people aren't even appreciating that just making a video alone these days is a lot of work and giving up your time for others...yet they have negative things to say. Unbelievable. This was great info for me as I know a good amount about electrical on cars for many years but never got the details on how to do it the best way using meters verses the old school way with a test light. Just knowing the minimum milliamp figure cars put out today is good info to confirm there is no major draw. I do aftermarket work and its all good to know. Keep up the great work....God rewards those who dont just think of themselves!
I've watched dozens of videos on the subject. Currently trying to find a parasitic draw on a Jeep with a million add-ons/mods. The method I was used to was the old school one of pulling every single fuse one by one. But I was replacing the fuses after it didn't seem to make a difference. Plus I wasn't waiting long enough before replacing. Your video was not only informative, but you went through 'the why' and then demonstrated. We got to see the demonstration after we knew 'the why', and it all made sense. Consider teaching You are good at it.
I’m a 157 year vampire mechanic and this is the BEST video I’ve ever seen on this!
Nice!
As an electrician this is an awesome video. You have new subscriber
Excellent vid. Some of us DIY'ers have industry electrical backgrounds and already have the assorted meter collection . So your Ford vehicle experience based tutorials are refreshing.
This is likely the best video on testing for parasitic drains. Well worth watching the 3 methods and fully understand whats happening and how to locate the circuit. Thanks!
I’ve fixed so much on my ranger because of this channel keep up the good work
I have been an industrial controls electrician for over 30 years and also work on my own vehicles too. I truly enjoy learning new techniques like this. This makes sense to do these tests like this, just needed to see it and apply my knowledge in this way. Had that, ah ha moment! Great video!.
Like always a true mechanic explaining things properly I love the method 3 test I just had a problem just like this and I used the method 3 with the amp clamp and I wasted no time testing fuses when the draw was not happening
I'm not a mechanic, but like working on cars. This video was right on time for me because we think my sister's Ford conversion van has a parasitic draw, and thanks to you I can now track it down if there is one. Count me as a new subscriber, thanks for sharing your knowledge, and keep up great work!!!
Great job, well done. I like your method of monitoring the Amp meter while Parasitic draw is occurring and backing it up with the fuse voltage drop. I have done the Amp method draw and did find the circuit that way while removing fuses, but as you say you run into the possibility of "waking up" components, then slows you down.
This is one of the best auto repair video on yt, no doubt. Made your case, perfect demonstration, and even added words of wisdom.
Man I sure do appreciate your videos, so easy to follow and getting actual technical info and processes is so refreshing!
I never get bored or tired watching these videos Brian is the best
Excellent video, I never used the min/max function on my Fluke but now I know what it does, thank you young fella
NOT A MECHANIC AM I ,BUT DUE TO YOUR WONDERFUL PATIENCE AND CONFIDENT APPROACH , EVEN I WAS ABLE TO COMPREHEND THE FANTASTIC INFORMATION BEING OFFERED . DAMN YOUR GOOD ,BRIAN ,THANK YOU . A PH.D MASTER CLASS . VINCE..
Awesome video. Thanks for taking the time to help. This problem seems to be more and more common as the standard 12v power distribution system gets more and more complex and taxed with more and more technology and accessory features.
Your comment made me think. Why not go to a higher voltage system. This would allow the use of smaller gauge wires and less of the precious metal copper. Even the standard GM wiring might work properly!
I know nothing about cars, but have an issue that two shops couldn't or would not try to figure out. I watched multiple videos and this made me confident enough to try doing it myself.
Thanks for clearing that up. I didn’t even think about it being intermittent and missing it! Great tip!
Using a current probe with a slow sweep on a digital oscilloscope would show if the draw is periodic in nature and just how long it takes before you have to set up for the next probing session.
Very easy to understand actually. Thanks for sharing. You're the first one I see using this complete method.
Thank you for this video. This was all I needed for a refresher, but if I'm fairly certain a beginner tech could benefit greatly from this video
Thank you for taking the time to inform us, the more novice (and perhaps a few seasoned veterans), of the BEST detection method.
Great instruction ! I am going to pass this along - including to someone who has a long standing radio program on cars . That thermal imaging camera is a fine tool that has a variety of uses .
Excellent. Great job. As a tech myself and with 16 ASE certificates it is easy to remember and using the visual walk around makes it even more easy. Damn engineers.
If we ever meet up in real life, I owe you a libation of your choosing. My 02 GT has a helluva draw and this will definitely help me identify it. Thanks for posting this up
I'm currently looking for a parasitic draw on a F53 motorhome.....you are spot on this is the best way I have seen. Thanks.
Best discussion of parasitic draw I've seen. Thanks!
As a 35 year veteran automotive tech and a shop owner, I had not heard of this “method” until you demonstrated it. I instinctively knew all the problems with it as you cited.....there’s simply no substitute for in-series current measurement, especially with intermittent (or highly intermittent) draws and the ability to set a multimeter to “min-max” for long-term measurement/recording. Cheers!
Edit: as a “quick and dirty” method of isolating a constant or suspected draw I can see value in this type of testing....but only in specific cases. I would probably modify the procedure and go from battery positive to the suspected fuse and dispense with the “chart”.... just looking for abnormal voltage drop to confirm a suspect circuit. Having said that, if the draw is general and no obvious cause is present, I’d go straight to the old faithful in-line current draw tests. Cheers!~
Thats awesome...Never realy thought of combining the two methods... Amp clamp is king in my book for both charging and draw faults...
Except on cars that draws in weeks and not in one night. You can see it even on this video that the current clamp resets the zero value after current spike.
Set up at 33:20 (~60mA draw) reset at 34:06 (0mA draw) while DVOM tells you the true value when in line done correctly without disconnecting the battery at any time from the car.
@@timowallin8020 isn't that reset cause some modules are already going to sleep and the intermittent draw also went away?
Buddy I use as many testing methods as I can, there is never one way to solve a problem. I always use what works for me. Great video by the way
I agree with you, the more we know the better we are and some methods work better than others
I’d trust this channel over humble mechanic any day....👍
I trust any channel over Shoddy Kilmer.
Barry well if you had a 96 toyota cellica you wouldn’t have this problem 😂😂😂
@@beezertwelvewashingbeard8703 you mean shitty kilmer.
cant stand humble and scotty is no better hes far to biast.
@@dro2204 😂
Your Tried and true method has been used for 30 plus years and there is a reason for it. Set it up including module shut down time and open up shunt so meter becomes path for battery, meter on mi/max and walk away. Come back periodically and check the meter. Process of elimination of each sub ckt for draw. Method of your choice. That easy.
Honestly a visual observation and good ears will lead you down the right path if you have experience.
In my opinion it's always best to start with the amp clamp. I've had a few draws over 10 amps that can blow the fuse in the meter if you do the inline method.
Ok hands down this is the best explanation to how to properly find a draw. Explained perfectly for simple minds like myself.
Thanks for making and posting this.
great video! Thanks. my 2006 f150 has a draw. if i dont drive it for 3 or 4 days it nearly kills the battery. youve given me plenty of info to tackle this problem if i can just get around to it.
retired automotive electrical tech here, before computers came along!
well done video. learned a lot from this. I long for the days when a car didn't think for itself...
Electricity 101 👍 The new fluke meters are even better. Some have detachable display or can be paired wirelessly to your phone, which is very handy when troubleshooting
I have the 3000FC & 376FC
Thanks for taking the time to show this, GREAT VIDEO.
Great video Brian. I'll admit that I had a hard time concentrating once I saw a french fry leaning up against the driver's side shock tower, (around 27 minutes in). As informative as you were, I couldn't help but wonder how the hell a fry gets under the hood in the first place. Besides the fry, very good video.
The MOST HELPFUL VIDEO I have seen so far explaining this situation.
THANK YOU 🤙🏽
Great video. Clear and very understandable. Thanks from a current Ford EESE Engineer for spreading correct procedures. And usable clamp style meters can be purchased for around $100 or less making it within reach of the DIYer.
Great video. One thing, I like turn my meter on first and set the mode (volts, amps etc) before testing , not connect the meter with it off, then cycle through the modes to the correct one on a live circuit.
Excellent presentation. Thank You. I really like your IR heat gun test. Theoretically... if your Multimeter has the ability to read temperatures you should be able to read each fuse temperature, thus determining the "hot " fuse. Have you ever tried this?
Never thought about that one, great idea.
I’ve watched a ton of these diagnostic vids about draws and yours is the best one out there. Appreciate the easy to follow instructions and breakdown.
I suggest leaving the aftermarket items connected for the draw test. Just make them the first thing that you unplug after you have varified that the problem currently exists.
0 0 plot