Please note: in making the video, I forgot to go over the easy changes to the slicer's "Start Gcode" and "End GCode" (please forgive me). You delete what all is in Start GCode and End GCode. Then, put this in Start GCode: START_PRINT BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ...And put this in End GCode: END_PRINT That's it! That is covered in the mod's documentation here: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/blob/master/docs/SLICING.md - and it is explored and explained a bit more in my question and answer on the discussion area here: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/discussions/57#discussioncomment-8765727 Also, please pardon my forgetfulness regarding how I incorrectly described the Wi-Fi solution. I later remembered that I actually had to connect an ethernet cable to the printer so that it could get connected to the network, which allowed me to remotely edit a config file to enter the network name and password. [UPDATE: on my second AD5M I retried and was able to get all 3 Wi-Fi-connect methods to work, so it must have been user error on my part the first time around.] Also, there was a new release (v00.04-beta) as of the evening of March 25, 2014 that gets the filament runout sensor to work and enhances the interface regarding that, and improves several other things. Learn more about it here: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/releases Purchase links for Flashforge Adventurer 5M printer: • Currently $298 on Amazon (affiliate link) - amzn.to/4a3LP4J • Currently $299 at manufacturer (not an affiliate link) - www.flashforgeshop.com/product/adventurer-5m-3d-printer?cID=31 Flashforge Adventurer 5M DIY printed enclosure upgrade: wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy Other cool options for the AD5M: Use Klipper stuff on stock hardware, such as Mainsail, Fluidd, and Klipperscreen, etc, with the stock Klipper install on the AD5M's main board, as shown in the first image above. Get it here: • github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod Check out other cool AD5M related options here: • github.com/g992/flashforge-ad5m-5mpro-research You may also like my other AD5M related design work: • www.printables.com/model/785667-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-simpler-easier-faste • www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount • www.printables.com/model/814546-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-nozzle-storage-box-t My PayPal tip jar: paypal.me/design8studio
Thank you SOOO much for this TL;DR version here! I'm still not sure what to pick in Orca Slicer to connect to device. They only have Octo/Klipper as a selection interface level, not Klipper or Mainsail, so I haven't been able to connect to that yet. BTW, what is the LOAD CELL temp trend? I assume this printer has a VOC levels and that is just trended as 'C on the TVOC?
@@jeffmcclain that OCTO/Klipper choice in the drop-down is the correct one to choose. For the URL input area you would put the IP address of your printer on your network, followed by a colon, followed by the Klipper port number for Mainsail, which I think is 7125 correction: 4000. So it would look like this: 192.168.x.x:4000
@@jeffmcclain regarding VOC levels, I don’t think this printer comes with a built-in way to detect VOCs, although there may be some algorithm that takes into account what filament you’re using, and what temperature you’re printing it at, to try to take a guess at it. My understanding is this is a feature of Klipper that is not in use in our build for the AD5M printer.
@@design8studio Hum...7125 is Moonraker default from that install, and 4000 is Mainsail (which doesn't seem to work). Maybe I don't put it in the UI section. I'll try just right in the IP. Thanks! I'm now curious how to make sure I get a new input shaping and PID cal done...
@@jeffmcclain sorry I quoted the wrong port number to you. Indeed, you use the Mainsail port number not the Moonraker port number, for the user interface. I think it works whether you put HTTP:// in front of it or not, but you could try it both ways. The port number goes immediately after the IP address, with only a colon between them. No slash between them.
After countless failed prints with the stock FW, finally made the switch to Klipper, and it was easier than I thought it would be. Much appreciated Doug:)
Great video and information.. I don't have it installed yet, but likely will now.. ;) Mainsail looks pretty neat.. Regarding the static ip for the printer, a simpler option is to write down or screenshot the info provided by DHCP on the printer screen, then turn on the Configure IPV4 switch and put the same info back in.. Then it's a static address, and doesn't change.. ;) Of course, it will likely need to be redone after installing mods like this.. ;)
Thanks for the cool tip! Networking is not my strongest area of expertise! Also, forgive me for my forgetfulness in incorrectly describing how I got connected. I had forgotten that I had to connect an ethernet cable, and I think that instead of using the Klipperscreen interface, I think I used the config text editor interface in mainsail to input the info. Honestly, I’m forgetful and I don’t really remember how I did it but I think that may be correct.
@@design8studio lol.. I'm no network expert, but I used to build computers and such at one time.. ya, you don't really need to go into the router at all.. just open the wifi settings on the printer, then get the info from the dhcp where is shows the ip address, gateway, and dns info, then click on Static Ip and repopulate that with the same info.. and set the last number of the ip to what you want.. Of course, in your case, being that you set the info in the router, if you make it different that what you put in your router, it will probably have a conflict, so you would likely have to remove that from the router...
Be careful using a STATIC IP address in the DHCP assignment pool. While it will likely work for a bit, the lease will expire and you could have your DHCP attempt to assign another MAC that IP and you'll have a collision. Best to assign it a different one outside your DHCP assignment pool. Just FYI.
Cool. Here's a list of Printables links to my AD5M-related design work (that does not necessarily involve the Klipper mod): www.printables.com/model/785667-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-simpler-easier-faste www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount www.printables.com/model/814546-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-nozzle-storage-box-t www.printables.com/model/827706-flashforge-adventurer-5-ad5m-led-mod-accessory-buc www.printables.com/model/828632-flashforge-adventurer-5-ad5m-led-light-bars-mod-ac
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +2
Do you need rasppery pi for it? Or it's all running on the printer
No Raspberry Pi needed. The wizards who made this mod have it using the stock LCD touchscreen on the printer instead of a Raspberry Pi. No Pi needed for this!
What benefits does this older version of klipper offer as far as print quality? Would you say its better than stock Flashforge firmware. Are you using stock 5m slicer profiles in orca?
The slightly older version of Klipper is the stock firmware. Flashforge placed Klipper on the mainboard from the factory as the firmware for this printer. This mod does not touch that. It just adds all the missing pieces needed to fully take advantage of the fact that the printer is already running on Klipper, which is to say, it adds Moonraker, Mainsail, and Fluidd, the latter two of which are webUI interfaces served from the printer to your browser, and finally there is an optional installer that loads all those parts plus loading Klipperscreen onto the LCD.
Re. "Are you using stock 5m slicer profiles in orca?" Yes. I downloaded the DIY printed enclosure file set from Flashforge, which is an OrcaSlicer project file, and it has their print profiles for this printer, and their settings for PLA and PETG (and I think some other filaments too?). I am using that to print. Two slight changes need made to the printer profile. There is a change to the "Start GCode" and "End GCode" - and this is explained in the mod's docs, and in a Q&A thread I was involved in, both of which are linked in a pinned comment of mine here under the video. I will also copy that pinned comment's content and put it in the video description.
Thanks for the reply! Glad to hear that this is running a true version of klipper.. just missing some things. Thanks for the explanation and clearing that up.
Yes indeed. It essentially makes the printer a fully Klipper-ized printer, and I have already bought the Calilantern calibration thing and I have already ran the tests and applied *all* the shew correction fixes it recommended in the spreadsheet, using the instruction for Klipper. I am also pleased to say both my AD5M printers (which had already been modded with the Klipper mod) scored rather well on the Calilantern calibration test as they came, and even better after adding the corrections.
@@DroneTravel There are only enough resources to get Moonraker, Mainsail, Fluidd, and Klipperscreen. The SSH access is a carefully limited version. Commands such as make are not included.
What I have done is simply used Flashforge’s AD5M profiles for PLA and PETG. I’m sure there is a Flashforge profile for ABS. I haven’t gone after that yet. But I know it’s got to be out there.
Excellent video. Just having an issue getting the inbuilt camera working. Its working in a browser and tried the settings in the mainsail setup. Do you have the settings needed to set them in the mainsail settings?
The URL to the camera's livestream feed is the IP address of the printer, plus the port number for the camera, which is 8080, so replace the X's in the following with your printer's IP address: 192.168.x.x:8080 - In Mainsail, that feed address goes into Settings > Webcams > URL Stream. The "snapshot" feature won't matter, because this mod takes almost all the LCD's resources so a time lapse plugin is too much.
@@greg8446Hmm. This definitely sounds like something to ask about in the discussion area of the mod on Github. There you can post pics and get more help.
All working now Doug. All I did was take the feed that was working on the web browser and copy and paste it into the webcam setup in Mainsail. Weird!@ But least its all working.
Just loaded this awesome mod yesterday to both my A5M and A5M Pro printers. Did have issue setting up WiFi and had to use a network cable and SSH to do it. Did you try and use the klipper_mod directory thing to setup your wifi? Thanks
Yes. For whatever reason that’s exactly what happened to me. I had to use an ethernet cable to get connected and I was able to get it working through the (Mainsail?) interface. Please forgive me for incorrectly describing it in the video. It’s been a few days since I did that and I struggle with forgetfulness.
@@design8studio Hey... please help! I am trying to connect AD5m to wifi- I have connected with ethernet, but trying to figure out wifi. You say you connected by editing a config file to enter the network name and password... THAT'S exactly what I need to do, but don't have a clue how to... can you give me some directions?
@@JoelRenfro Hmm. Let's see if I can shed some light. I read and tested all the steps and methods on this help page (see link below). I struggled on my first AD5M, but eventually succeeded, I think by using the SSH login as root method. Later on my second AD5M, all the offered options worked for me. Is the linked page something you've already seen? If you are struggling with one of the options, do the other help links there provide clarity? github.com/xblax/flashforge_ad5m_klipper_mod/blob/master/docs/WIFI.md
Ok... so I found the Github "Connect via ethernet and SSH" script and entered in the required info, but still not able to connect via wifi... I feel I'm missing a step somewhere...
@@design8studio Thanks so much for your help! OK... so I found the problem and have it sorted out! The fix was: I had spaces in my home network name. I could SSH into the machine, but not assign it to a network because Putty doesn't recognize spaces (or, I suspect, any non-alphabetic character...) in a network name. I renamed the home network by simply removing the spaces and within 20 minutes the printer logged on and now all is well!!
Does this also let you adjust the rotational distance for the different axes? Ordered one of these. On another Klipper printer I had already been through the process of editing those in the machine.cfg file to make it print in true XYZ dimensions. Need that for making machine parts and mockups. Have you had to adjust these on either of the 5M printers? TIA
With the provided Mainsail/Fluidd there is full access to the built in .cfg editor. I think anything you can normally do with Klipper, you can do here, with the exception being there is not a timelapse option because of limited resources.
@@design8studio Cool, I've worked with mainsail on the other system (SV07+) to fix those things. Did you need to edit them for either of your AD5M machines? (love your designs BTW)
@@design8studio Thank you, and it's interesting that you didn't have to make any changes to the rotational distance in machine.cfg. When I got it, my SV07+ was somehow slightly off in those regards .. something like 3% off in the Y axis and a little less in the other two. So I had to change the stepper distance for 4 motors.
@@suzyamerica4679 The Flashforge firstboot process includes both a bed leveling (to get a mesh) and a vibration resonance check. These two steps give great results. Can be repeated as often as desired.
I use the standard flash forge camera, installed klipper, and just can not get the timelapse to work. Made sure all the settings in mainsail are correct, but n joy. Do you mind sharing what you did to get timelapse to work?
My experience is the same as yours. Please chime in on a discussion thread where I posted about it and let the MOD authors know that you are having the same issue. Here’s a link to where I opened a discussion about it. github.com/xblax/flashforge_ad5m_klipper_mod/discussions/215
So I know we don’t need a raspberry pi but I’d like things to have more than enough resources and the option for newer Klipper do you know or have you seen anyways to use a raspberry pi to do this instead?
It seems to be possible, although I don't know what all is involved. If you check out the discussion at the link below, someone has there has done it, and you could chime in ask for more details: github.com/g992/flashforge-ad5m-5mpro-research/issues/19
This mod has two installers to choose from. One installs Mainsail, and Fluidd and Moonraker, in one batch. The other installer adds all those three things plus Klipperscreen onto the LCD as well. The base install of Klipper is already present on the main board (from the factory). So the only things that need added are Mainsail, Fluidd, and Moonraker. And the optional is to do the installer that also does Klipperscreen.
Thanks for answering the questions. I think I'm going to do it. Just to confirm if I wanted to uninstall this I can just add the Adventurer5M-KlipperMod-uninstall.tgz to a USB, turn off the printer, plug USB in and turn printer on. Is this correct? @@design8studio
Hope this helps. This reply is from two months ago, here in the comments (answer given to @greg8446): "The URL to the camera's livestream feed is the IP address of the printer, plus the port number for the camera, which is 8080, so replace the X's in the following with your printer's IP address: 192.168.x.x:8080 - In Mainsail, that feed address goes into Settings > Webcams > URL Stream. The "snapshot" feature won't matter, because this mod takes almost all the LCD's resources so a time lapse plugin is too much.
Re. anything out of the ordinary - software wise, no. Physically (relating to length of wiring) I had to design and print a modified camera holder because the camera bought from the manufacturer has a wire too short to reach otherwise. Here's a link: www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount
👍 will be nice to see some video how to properly nanage g-codes and proper set z offset. I'm little struglin, no understanding hiw proper on cold or hot bed, sequence e.t.c. ? Thank You
@@design8studio this printer is workhorse, just need to know how to get on ride 😂, I just got problem with bed platform when bought, there's 0.6mm difference in 100mm area, now in dispute with they customer service, currently just got link from them how to replace heating element but they said from that video I will get clue lol
@@QARepair So the printer does a bed probing process in the out of the box experience, which created a "mesh" (a digital 3D map of the bed) used for "leveling" during printing. Most printers come with the bed having some dip or rise in it, and the mesh leveling allows overcoming that. To get a bed that is truly flat, is expensive, requiring a thick slab of (MIC-6) aluminum that has been machined to a spec flatness. For these affordable printers, that would be out of the question because of cost. We choose rather to take the relative lack of flatness and be glad for the mesh leveling process.
I got the 2.6.5 firmware OTA. trying to downgrade to 2.4.5 but the file downloads with a crazy filename (and as a zip, not a tarball) do you know what the file name is supposed to be for the 2.4.5 firmware so the AD5M will recognize the file?
In order to help answer this, I created a new discussion on the Github repo, in which I gave naming, file contents details, and also uploaded the TGZ file and the Zip file. github.com/xblax/flashforge_ad5m_klipper_mod/discussions/152
I did the 004 beta version with one of my AD5M (Non Pro) and did not need to rename the file, but the file mod method for WIFI did not work. By connecting via ethernet, I was able to config the WIFI through SSH. I did the non LCD screen version. 😀
Thanks for the info! By the way, when I loaded the 00.04-beta version on my second AD5M, I was able to get verify that all 3 methods for activating wifi worked! I posted all about it in the issues area of the Github repot: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/issues/112
@@design8studio I havent had a chance to do the second printer yet. I was like you"For a price like that I want a second one(Trying not to buy a 3rd.)" The Start and end GCODE in orca slicer has me a little confused.
do the details in the description about that help? If not click the link in the description for the discussion thread, where I had to get clarity on that.
Is it possible you’re looking at my illustration backwards? The adjustment I made brings the filament runout sensor in line with the hole in the enclosure riser and allows the PTFE tube to go straight in instead of having to be bent.
Does anyone know how to calibrate the load cells? I did the load_cell_tare command, but my bed mesh probing is still inconsistent. It triggers probe before hitting the bed in certain spots, but certain others probe just fine. It's weird...
I may be able to do that, but in the meantime, check out this thread where I posted to ask about it in the discussion area, and figured it out. This link goes to where I arrived at what to put for the start GCode. github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/discussions/57#discussioncomment-8765727 - and you can read higher in the thread to get context and more details.
You delete what all is in Start GCode and End GCode. Then, put this in Start GCode: START_PRINT BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ...And put this in End GCode: END_PRINT That's it!
I connected to my Wifi just fine but I cannot get Orca to connect to the printer it just gives me errors. Any idea why this might be? Also cannot get the camera to show up in fluidd or mainsail in web browser.
Are you using the proper port numbers? In orca slicer, for the URL, you put the IP address of the printer, then a colon, then 7125. To get Mainsail to show up in a browser you go to the IP address of the printer, then a colon, then, 4000. To get the camera to show up in Mainsail, go to settings > webcams, and there use the IP address of the printer, then a colon, then 8080.
@@design8studio Okay that may have been the problem i was using the fluidd port so I could see fluidd in Orca. Do I use Octo/Klipper in Orca with 7125 port? Can see the camera in browser on it's own but couldn't seem to get it to work in fluidd or Mainsail. I went back stock so I guess I'll have to try again. I'm away a lot but I keep an eye on my printers. Like to be able to stop them remotely if there's a problem.
@@SteveW-xh5hcYep. For OrcaSlicer to show you the interface in the device manager tab, you can use either the Mainsail port number or the Fluid port number, whichever you want. But for sending jobs, you want the Moonraker port (7125).
@@SteveW-xh5hc Re. "Do I use Octo/Klipper in Orca with 7125 port?" Yes. The Host Type = Octo/Klipper. The "Hostname, IP, or URL" = printer IP then a colon then 7125. The Device UI = printer IP then a colon then either Mainsail's port (4000) or Fluidd's port (4001). To get the cam working in Mainsail, edit Settings > Webcams, and use printer IP then a colon then 8080.
@@design8studio yeah I was going through all the discussions and found one where it mentioned something about formatting and I read through and someone mentioned it needs fat32
M5 pro firmware 2.6.5. trying to install beta 4 klipperscreen firmware but printer reports not compatable with klipper mod. Do I have to downgrade to version 2.4.5 Also beta3 version says to rename to Adventurer5MPro-*.tgz but cannot rename with * in file name. Sorry not very comuter savvy
In the GitHub documentation for the mod, it tells which version of firmware it was built for. I think you’re on the right track in understanding that your current version is too high for the mod. For me, it’s considered worth it to downgrade, install the mod, then upgrade the firmware afterward, and see if there are any problems, and if no problems, stay that way, and if there are problems then decide whether you prefer the older firmware with the mod or the newer firmware without the mod. I seem to remember reading somewhere in the discussion on the GitHub repo that someone found that upgrading the firmware after installing the mod was doable, and they had no issues. Regarding the file renaming issue, that asterisk is meant as a stand in for the particular version number/date format that the factory firmware files come in. So you could compare a factory firmware file and get the exact specific content used to replace the asterisk.
@@jamesarundel9899 I think the file name needs to match a certain format, but it also needs to have a slight difference with whatever firmware is currently on the printer, or the printer thinks that it does not need to apply the firmware. I think I accomplished this by changing one digit in the date format, or the version format, or both - I can’t remember.
If the question is what is Moonraker, it's an important part of the Klipper setup, and is trustworthy. It resides on the LCD and communicates with you and your mainboard. If you can see how to grant approval for the authorization, I recommend you do approve it. If not, and the question is about the authorization itself, then this would be a good question to pose in the Q&A section of the Github repot for the Klipper mod itself.
Various efforts have been made. This Reddit post is by someone doing one of the efforts, and one of the earliest response links to another effort. Various points of discussion follow. www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/1epabhj/you_can_finally_resume_a_print_after_the_power/
I’m using the stock camera and my frame rates fluctuate wildly from as low as 1 all the way up to 15. High frame rates seem to be only in short bursts. I’m not an expert on all the factors that affect this, but I suspect most of it is down to the fact that the computational power in the touchscreen is not a lot.
For most people, the primary functions of the camera are to keep tabs on the general situation with the print, and to take still frames that get composited into Timelapse video. For both of these purposes, the low frame rate is not a serious problem.
@@design8studio I tried reinstalling it with the guppyscreen version, and it seems to work very well resource exhaustion-wise, with this version I'm getting a smooth stream on the camera + not getting the printer turned off because of RAM exhaustion!
@@design8studio one more question regarding the external fan, when I turn it "on" on the LCD screen I hear the fan opening the servo, but if I make it 100% on the Klipper UI I hear the fan turning on but I don't hear the servo "opening" the fan door
My camera works in both Mainsail and Fluidd. There is a place, in Mainsail, for instance, to add your camera's details. I am not sure what you mean about switching port number.
In Mainsail, go to settings, then Webcam. There you input your camera's details. If you need help on that, let me know or check out the details on the Github and/or the discussion area of the Github. It's also been answered in discussion areas on Reddit.
So, I don't know off the top of my head if there is a macro button for it, but the following command can be tweaked as needed and entered into the Console: PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200
I had the same issue. Turns out it's a Klipper thing, that the Z_offset only gets referenced the *next time* you run a bed leveling (if I remember right). Once you set it, run bed leveling one more time, and then it "takes" - worked for me once I found that out.
I posted a reply with the same answer about 3 weeks ago, when it was fresher in my memory, so I think I told you correctly. See that earlier reply here: www.reddit.com/r/FlashForge/comments/1bmfyxs/comment/lfgjqkp/?context=3
Sorry if anything is confusing. There is pretty good documentation of getting started on the GitHub repo. There’s also a discussion area attached to the GitHub repo that is a great place to get help and answers to questions.
Yes, this mod works equally well on both the 5M and 5M pro. As far as the main board, they both have the same in them. The only differences between the pro board and the non-pro one is there are some USB ports that are soldered in place that do not appear on the non-pro model. But as far as the processor, etc. it’s the same.
@@marcoss4563 in order for it to work there had to have already been an install of the Klipper firmware from the factory on the main board, and the modifications had to be designed very specifically around that version of Klipper installed on the main board. My suspicion is that the needed conditions are not met in an earlier model from the manufacturer.
The print set for OrcaSlicer is available from Flashforge on their wiki for the DIY enclosure - which is linked from their video about the DIY enclosure. Here's are links: wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy - th-cam.com/video/6-RHAFNZ6jk/w-d-xo.html
![ทุกครั้งที่หลับตา (Lucid Dream) - AYLA's [ Official MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4i1OBAQyv58/mqdefault.jpg)
Please note: in making the video, I forgot to go over the easy changes to the slicer's "Start Gcode" and "End GCode" (please forgive me). You delete what all is in Start GCode and End GCode. Then, put this in Start GCode:
START_PRINT BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]
...And put this in End GCode:
END_PRINT
That's it!
That is covered in the mod's documentation here: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/blob/master/docs/SLICING.md - and it is explored and explained a bit more in my question and answer on the discussion area here: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/discussions/57#discussioncomment-8765727
Also, please pardon my forgetfulness regarding how I incorrectly described the Wi-Fi solution. I later remembered that I actually had to connect an ethernet cable to the printer so that it could get connected to the network, which allowed me to remotely edit a config file to enter the network name and password. [UPDATE: on my second AD5M I retried and was able to get all 3 Wi-Fi-connect methods to work, so it must have been user error on my part the first time around.]
Also, there was a new release (v00.04-beta) as of the evening of March 25, 2014 that gets the filament runout sensor to work and enhances the interface regarding that, and improves several other things. Learn more about it here: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/releases
Purchase links for Flashforge Adventurer 5M printer:
• Currently $298 on Amazon (affiliate link) - amzn.to/4a3LP4J
• Currently $299 at manufacturer (not an affiliate link) - www.flashforgeshop.com/product/adventurer-5m-3d-printer?cID=31
Flashforge Adventurer 5M DIY printed enclosure upgrade: wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy
Other cool options for the AD5M:
Use Klipper stuff on stock hardware, such as Mainsail, Fluidd, and Klipperscreen, etc, with the stock Klipper install on the AD5M's main board, as shown in the first image above. Get it here:
• github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod
Check out other cool AD5M related options here:
• github.com/g992/flashforge-ad5m-5mpro-research
You may also like my other AD5M related design work:
• www.printables.com/model/785667-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-simpler-easier-faste
• www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount
• www.printables.com/model/814546-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-nozzle-storage-box-t
My PayPal tip jar: paypal.me/design8studio
Thank you SOOO much for this TL;DR version here! I'm still not sure what to pick in Orca Slicer to connect to device. They only have Octo/Klipper as a selection interface level, not Klipper or Mainsail, so I haven't been able to connect to that yet.
BTW, what is the LOAD CELL temp trend? I assume this printer has a VOC levels and that is just trended as 'C on the TVOC?
@@jeffmcclain that OCTO/Klipper choice in the drop-down is the correct one to choose. For the URL input area you would put the IP address of your printer on your network, followed by a colon, followed by the Klipper port number for Mainsail, which I think is 7125 correction: 4000. So it would look like this: 192.168.x.x:4000
@@jeffmcclain regarding VOC levels, I don’t think this printer comes with a built-in way to detect VOCs, although there may be some algorithm that takes into account what filament you’re using, and what temperature you’re printing it at, to try to take a guess at it. My understanding is this is a feature of Klipper that is not in use in our build for the AD5M printer.
@@design8studio Hum...7125 is Moonraker default from that install, and 4000 is Mainsail (which doesn't seem to work). Maybe I don't put it in the UI section. I'll try just right in the IP. Thanks! I'm now curious how to make sure I get a new input shaping and PID cal done...
@@jeffmcclain sorry I quoted the wrong port number to you. Indeed, you use the Mainsail port number not the Moonraker port number, for the user interface. I think it works whether you put HTTP:// in front of it or not, but you could try it both ways. The port number goes immediately after the IP address, with only a colon between them. No slash between them.
After countless failed prints with the stock FW, finally made the switch to Klipper, and it was easier than I thought it would be. Much appreciated Doug:)
Sounds good! Glad it was a help!
Thanks for all the fantastic content on this printer Doug. Much appreciated!
Happy to help!
I'm receiving my AD5M this Friday, my first ever 3D printer. I'll be following your video to install the Klipper mod, thank you so much for making it!
Cool. If you have questions be sure to post in the Github discussion Q&A area!
Great video and information.. I don't have it installed yet, but likely will now.. ;) Mainsail looks pretty neat.. Regarding the static ip for the printer, a simpler option is to write down or screenshot the info provided by DHCP on the printer screen, then turn on the Configure IPV4 switch and put the same info back in.. Then it's a static address, and doesn't change.. ;) Of course, it will likely need to be redone after installing mods like this.. ;)
Thanks for the cool tip! Networking is not my strongest area of expertise! Also, forgive me for my forgetfulness in incorrectly describing how I got connected. I had forgotten that I had to connect an ethernet cable, and I think that instead of using the Klipperscreen interface, I think I used the config text editor interface in mainsail to input the info. Honestly, I’m forgetful and I don’t really remember how I did it but I think that may be correct.
@@design8studio lol.. I'm no network expert, but I used to build computers and such at one time.. ya, you don't really need to go into the router at all.. just open the wifi settings on the printer, then get the info from the dhcp where is shows the ip address, gateway, and dns info, then click on Static Ip and repopulate that with the same info.. and set the last number of the ip to what you want.. Of course, in your case, being that you set the info in the router, if you make it different that what you put in your router, it will probably have a conflict, so you would likely have to remove that from the router...
@@JM-du4xf I am an avid techie for a long time, but I'm totally brand new to Klipper. The static IP is working great for me.
Be careful using a STATIC IP address in the DHCP assignment pool. While it will likely work for a bit, the lease will expire and you could have your DHCP attempt to assign another MAC that IP and you'll have a collision. Best to assign it a different one outside your DHCP assignment pool. Just FYI.
Great video! Thank you for the information.
Thanks! See description for some details I could have made clearer!
Great Video ! I got A5M and i am really termpted to Mod this printer, its my first one ( and got no space for more ;) )
Cool. Here's a list of Printables links to my AD5M-related design work (that does not necessarily involve the Klipper mod):
www.printables.com/model/785667-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-simpler-easier-faste
www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount
www.printables.com/model/814546-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-nozzle-storage-box-t
www.printables.com/model/827706-flashforge-adventurer-5-ad5m-led-mod-accessory-buc
www.printables.com/model/828632-flashforge-adventurer-5-ad5m-led-light-bars-mod-ac
Do you need rasppery pi for it? Or it's all running on the printer
No Raspberry Pi needed. The wizards who made this mod have it using the stock LCD touchscreen on the printer instead of a Raspberry Pi. No Pi needed for this!
Hi, thanks for that great topic, I' ll use it for my printer 👍
Cool. If you have any questions or issues, be sure to post in the Github discussion area. It's a great place to get answers.
What benefits does this older version of klipper offer as far as print quality? Would you say its better than stock Flashforge firmware. Are you using stock 5m slicer profiles in orca?
The slightly older version of Klipper is the stock firmware. Flashforge placed Klipper on the mainboard from the factory as the firmware for this printer. This mod does not touch that. It just adds all the missing pieces needed to fully take advantage of the fact that the printer is already running on Klipper, which is to say, it adds Moonraker, Mainsail, and Fluidd, the latter two of which are webUI interfaces served from the printer to your browser, and finally there is an optional installer that loads all those parts plus loading Klipperscreen onto the LCD.
Re. "Are you using stock 5m slicer profiles in orca?" Yes. I downloaded the DIY printed enclosure file set from Flashforge, which is an OrcaSlicer project file, and it has their print profiles for this printer, and their settings for PLA and PETG (and I think some other filaments too?). I am using that to print. Two slight changes need made to the printer profile. There is a change to the "Start GCode" and "End GCode" - and this is explained in the mod's docs, and in a Q&A thread I was involved in, both of which are linked in a pinned comment of mine here under the video. I will also copy that pinned comment's content and put it in the video description.
Thanks for the reply! Glad to hear that this is running a true version of klipper.. just missing some things. Thanks for the explanation and clearing that up.
Hi Doug, does this mod allow for the xz and yz skew fixes? To use for Low Rider 4 CNC?
Yes indeed. It essentially makes the printer a fully Klipper-ized printer, and I have already bought the Calilantern calibration thing and I have already ran the tests and applied *all* the shew correction fixes it recommended in the spreadsheet, using the instruction for Klipper. I am also pleased to say both my AD5M printers (which had already been modded with the Klipper mod) scored rather well on the Calilantern calibration test as they came, and even better after adding the corrections.
That is great... Thank u for sharing informations. Does this change any print quality or stock settings of 5m pro?
No, and it’s reversible and you can have stock GUI on LCD at any time.
@@design8studio really love it. Could it install third party apps into klipper like TAILSCALE by using ssh command window ?
@@DroneTravel There are only enough resources to get Moonraker, Mainsail, Fluidd, and Klipperscreen. The SSH access is a carefully limited version. Commands such as make are not included.
@@design8studio thank for the info.. can u share orca profile if u have for abs?
What I have done is simply used Flashforge’s AD5M profiles for PLA and PETG. I’m sure there is a Flashforge profile for ABS. I haven’t gone after that yet. But I know it’s got to be out there.
Excellent video. Just having an issue getting the inbuilt camera working. Its working in a browser and tried the settings in the mainsail setup. Do you have the settings needed to set them in the mainsail settings?
The URL to the camera's livestream feed is the IP address of the printer, plus the port number for the camera, which is 8080, so replace the X's in the following with your printer's IP address: 192.168.x.x:8080 - In Mainsail, that feed address goes into Settings > Webcams > URL Stream. The "snapshot" feature won't matter, because this mod takes almost all the LCD's resources so a time lapse plugin is too much.
@@design8studio that’s what’s weird. Have put all that in and it’s just not connecting. It is connecting via the web browser no problems
@@greg8446Hmm. This definitely sounds like something to ask about in the discussion area of the mod on Github. There you can post pics and get more help.
Thanks Doug. Will do@@design8studio
All working now Doug. All I did was take the feed that was working on the web browser and copy and paste it into the webcam setup in Mainsail. Weird!@ But least its all working.
Just loaded this awesome mod yesterday to both my A5M and A5M Pro printers. Did have issue setting up WiFi and had to use a network cable and SSH to do it. Did you try and use the klipper_mod directory thing to setup your wifi? Thanks
Yes. For whatever reason that’s exactly what happened to me. I had to use an ethernet cable to get connected and I was able to get it working through the (Mainsail?) interface. Please forgive me for incorrectly describing it in the video. It’s been a few days since I did that and I struggle with forgetfulness.
@@design8studio Hey... please help! I am trying to connect AD5m to wifi- I have connected with ethernet, but trying to figure out wifi. You say you connected by editing a config file to enter the network name and password... THAT'S exactly what I need to do, but don't have a clue how to... can you give me some directions?
@@JoelRenfro Hmm. Let's see if I can shed some light. I read and tested all the steps and methods on this help page (see link below). I struggled on my first AD5M, but eventually succeeded, I think by using the SSH login as root method. Later on my second AD5M, all the offered options worked for me. Is the linked page something you've already seen? If you are struggling with one of the options, do the other help links there provide clarity? github.com/xblax/flashforge_ad5m_klipper_mod/blob/master/docs/WIFI.md
Ok... so I found the Github "Connect via ethernet and SSH" script and entered in the required info, but still not able to connect via wifi... I feel I'm missing a step somewhere...
@@design8studio Thanks so much for your help! OK... so I found the problem and have it sorted out! The fix was: I had spaces in my home network name. I could SSH into the machine, but not assign it to a network because Putty doesn't recognize spaces (or, I suspect, any non-alphabetic character...) in a network name. I renamed the home network by simply removing the spaces and within 20 minutes the printer logged on and now all is well!!
Does this also let you adjust the rotational distance for the different axes? Ordered one of these. On another Klipper printer I had already been through the process of editing those in the machine.cfg file to make it print in true XYZ dimensions. Need that for making machine parts and mockups. Have you had to adjust these on either of the 5M printers? TIA
With the provided Mainsail/Fluidd there is full access to the built in .cfg editor. I think anything you can normally do with Klipper, you can do here, with the exception being there is not a timelapse option because of limited resources.
@@design8studio Cool, I've worked with mainsail on the other system (SV07+) to fix those things. Did you need to edit them for either of your AD5M machines? (love your designs BTW)
@@suzyamerica4679 I made a few tweaks, but I did not have to do any axis rotation stuff.
@@design8studio Thank you, and it's interesting that you didn't have to make any changes to the rotational distance in machine.cfg. When I got it, my SV07+ was somehow slightly off in those regards .. something like 3% off in the Y axis and a little less in the other two. So I had to change the stepper distance for 4 motors.
@@suzyamerica4679 The Flashforge firstboot process includes both a bed leveling (to get a mesh) and a vibration resonance check. These two steps give great results. Can be repeated as often as desired.
I use the standard flash forge camera, installed klipper, and just can not get the timelapse to work. Made sure all the settings in mainsail are correct, but n joy. Do you mind sharing what you did to get timelapse to work?
My experience is the same as yours. Please chime in on a discussion thread where I posted about it and let the MOD authors know that you are having the same issue. Here’s a link to where I opened a discussion about it.
github.com/xblax/flashforge_ad5m_klipper_mod/discussions/215
So I know we don’t need a raspberry pi but I’d like things to have more than enough resources and the option for newer Klipper do you know or have you seen anyways to use a raspberry pi to do this instead?
It seems to be possible, although I don't know what all is involved. If you check out the discussion at the link below, someone has there has done it, and you could chime in ask for more details: github.com/g992/flashforge-ad5m-5mpro-research/issues/19
Thank you.
But is there a simplified version of this tutorial?
Thanks.
Well, the documentation is there on the Github. It seems decent.
Do you have to install bot the klipper as well as the klipper screen? Or does the klipper screen mod install both?
This mod has two installers to choose from. One installs Mainsail, and Fluidd and Moonraker, in one batch. The other installer adds all those three things plus Klipperscreen onto the LCD as well. The base install of Klipper is already present on the main board (from the factory). So the only things that need added are Mainsail, Fluidd, and Moonraker. And the optional is to do the installer that also does Klipperscreen.
Thanks for answering the questions. I think I'm going to do it. Just to confirm if I wanted to uninstall this I can just add the Adventurer5M-KlipperMod-uninstall.tgz
to a USB, turn off the printer, plug USB in and turn printer on. Is this correct? @@design8studio
We need ram upgrade guide, from 128mb to 256mb . Changing ic is enough, or not?
Do you mind sharing if you had to do anything out of the ordinary to get the webcam to work in Mainsail? Thanks!
Yes it’s been shared in other replies. I’ll try to locate and link or copy.
Hope this helps. This reply is from two months ago, here in the comments (answer given to @greg8446): "The URL to the camera's livestream feed is the IP address of the printer, plus the port number for the camera, which is 8080, so replace the X's in the following with your printer's IP address: 192.168.x.x:8080 - In Mainsail, that feed address goes into Settings > Webcams > URL Stream. The "snapshot" feature won't matter, because this mod takes almost all the LCD's resources so a time lapse plugin is too much.
Re. anything out of the ordinary - software wise, no. Physically (relating to length of wiring) I had to design and print a modified camera holder because the camera bought from the manufacturer has a wire too short to reach otherwise. Here's a link: www.printables.com/model/813334-flashforge-adventurer-5m-ad5m-printed-camera-mount
@@design8studio You are a great resource to this community, thank you.
👍 will be nice to see some video how to properly nanage g-codes and proper set z offset. I'm little struglin, no understanding hiw proper on cold or hot bed, sequence e.t.c. ? Thank You
I will try to bear this in mind.
@@design8studio this printer is workhorse, just need to know how to get on ride 😂, I just got problem with bed platform when bought, there's 0.6mm difference in 100mm area, now in dispute with they customer service, currently just got link from them how to replace heating element but they said from that video I will get clue lol
@@QARepair So the printer does a bed probing process in the out of the box experience, which created a "mesh" (a digital 3D map of the bed) used for "leveling" during printing. Most printers come with the bed having some dip or rise in it, and the mesh leveling allows overcoming that. To get a bed that is truly flat, is expensive, requiring a thick slab of (MIC-6) aluminum that has been machined to a spec flatness. For these affordable printers, that would be out of the question because of cost. We choose rather to take the relative lack of flatness and be glad for the mesh leveling process.
I agree but 0.6mm bump over 100mm area not so great tolerance 🙈 I will try some day to sand that platform with some flat glass
I got the 2.6.5 firmware OTA. trying to downgrade to 2.4.5 but the file downloads with a crazy filename (and as a zip, not a tarball) do you know what the file name is supposed to be for the 2.4.5 firmware so the AD5M will recognize the file?
In order to help answer this, I created a new discussion on the Github repo, in which I gave naming, file contents details, and also uploaded the TGZ file and the Zip file. github.com/xblax/flashforge_ad5m_klipper_mod/discussions/152
You the man!
On other account, but thank you!
Would love a video showing how to set up the wifi
Not in a position to do that now, but will try to bear that in mind.
I did the 004 beta version with one of my AD5M (Non Pro) and did not need to rename the file, but the file mod method for WIFI did not work. By connecting via ethernet, I was able to config the WIFI through SSH. I did the non LCD screen version. 😀
Thanks for the info! By the way, when I loaded the 00.04-beta version on my second AD5M, I was able to get verify that all 3 methods for activating wifi worked! I posted all about it in the issues area of the Github repot: github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/issues/112
@@design8studio I havent had a chance to do the second printer yet. I was like you"For a price like that I want a second one(Trying not to buy a 3rd.)" The Start and end GCODE in orca slicer has me a little confused.
do the details in the description about that help? If not click the link in the description for the discussion thread, where I had to get clarity on that.
need a video on your spool holder to show what you mean because i feel like the up[date you have provided would kink more ?
Is it possible you’re looking at my illustration backwards? The adjustment I made brings the filament runout sensor in line with the hole in the enclosure riser and allows the PTFE tube to go straight in instead of having to be bent.
Does anyone know how to calibrate the load cells? I did the load_cell_tare command, but my bed mesh probing is still inconsistent. It triggers probe before hitting the bed in certain spots, but certain others probe just fine. It's weird...
I only know the normal mesh probing process worked fine for me. Sorry.
hi,I cant understand the start end g code config changes,can youadd a video how to do it please
I may be able to do that, but in the meantime, check out this thread where I posted to ask about it in the discussion area, and figured it out. This link goes to where I arrived at what to put for the start GCode. github.com/xblax/flashforge_adm5_klipper_mod/discussions/57#discussioncomment-8765727 - and you can read higher in the thread to get context and more details.
You delete what all is in Start GCode and End GCode. Then, put this in Start GCode:
START_PRINT BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]
...And put this in End GCode:
END_PRINT
That's it!
@@design8studio thank you,this helped alot.
Thank You
We just need to get time lapse working in mainsail now. We dont have APT in the install.
There is interest by the developer(s) but also an awareness that it's a resource hog and there are not a lot of resources.
I connected to my Wifi just fine but I cannot get Orca to connect to the printer it just gives me errors. Any idea why this might be? Also cannot get the camera to show up in fluidd or mainsail in web browser.
Are you using the proper port numbers? In orca slicer, for the URL, you put the IP address of the printer, then a colon, then 7125. To get Mainsail to show up in a browser you go to the IP address of the printer, then a colon, then, 4000. To get the camera to show up in Mainsail, go to settings > webcams, and there use the IP address of the printer, then a colon, then 8080.
@@design8studio Okay that may have been the problem i was using the fluidd port so I could see fluidd in Orca. Do I use Octo/Klipper in Orca with 7125 port? Can see the camera in browser on it's own but couldn't seem to get it to work in fluidd or Mainsail. I went back stock so I guess I'll have to try again. I'm away a lot but I keep an eye on my printers. Like to be able to stop them remotely if there's a problem.
@@SteveW-xh5hcYep. For OrcaSlicer to show you the interface in the device manager tab, you can use either the Mainsail port number or the Fluid port number, whichever you want. But for sending jobs, you want the Moonraker port (7125).
@@SteveW-xh5hc Re. "Do I use Octo/Klipper in Orca with 7125 port?" Yes. The Host Type = Octo/Klipper. The "Hostname, IP, or URL" = printer IP then a colon then 7125. The Device UI = printer IP then a colon then either Mainsail's port (4000) or Fluidd's port (4001). To get the cam working in Mainsail, edit Settings > Webcams, and use printer IP then a colon then 8080.
every time i tried to use this mod the printer seems to crash a lot from the system overloading
So sorry to hear that.
Hi, I just got my printer and it’s on 2.7.2-2.2.3, what can I do to install this, I’ve tried downgrading but it doesn’t work
I’ve sorted it, turns out you need to format the thumb drive to fat32 instead exfat
Hey, this may be doable, but I know for certain. The best place to ask is the GitHub discussion area where the public mod is offered.
@@FJay81glad you got it sorted out. My first answer was before I saw your reply
@@design8studio yeah I was going through all the discussions and found one where it mentioned something about formatting and I read through and someone mentioned it needs fat32
M5 pro firmware 2.6.5. trying to install beta 4 klipperscreen firmware but printer reports not compatable with klipper mod. Do I have to downgrade to version 2.4.5 Also beta3 version says to rename to Adventurer5MPro-*.tgz but cannot rename with * in file name. Sorry not very comuter savvy
In the GitHub documentation for the mod, it tells which version of firmware it was built for. I think you’re on the right track in understanding that your current version is too high for the mod. For me, it’s considered worth it to downgrade, install the mod, then upgrade the firmware afterward, and see if there are any problems, and if no problems, stay that way, and if there are problems then decide whether you prefer the older firmware with the mod or the newer firmware without the mod. I seem to remember reading somewhere in the discussion on the GitHub repo that someone found that upgrading the firmware after installing the mod was doable, and they had no issues. Regarding the file renaming issue, that asterisk is meant as a stand in for the particular version number/date format that the factory firmware files come in. So you could compare a factory firmware file and get the exact specific content used to replace the asterisk.
@@design8studio Thankyou. I am always eager to learn and hope to do so with this printer.
@@jamesarundel9899 I think the file name needs to match a certain format, but it also needs to have a slight difference with whatever firmware is currently on the printer, or the printer thinks that it does not need to apply the firmware. I think I accomplished this by changing one digit in the date format, or the version format, or both - I can’t remember.
Hello guy, when I put the andress of my printer appearsan imahe that it requesta a moonracker autorizathion.What is it?
If the question is what is Moonraker, it's an important part of the Klipper setup, and is trustworthy. It resides on the LCD and communicates with you and your mainboard. If you can see how to grant approval for the authorization, I recommend you do approve it. If not, and the question is about the authorization itself, then this would be a good question to pose in the Q&A section of the Github repot for the Klipper mod itself.
All work.thank
Is there a way to resume a print if power goes out
Various efforts have been made. This Reddit post is by someone doing one of the efforts, and one of the earliest response links to another effort. Various points of discussion follow. www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/1epabhj/you_can_finally_resume_a_print_after_the_power/
I’m using the stock camera and for some reason im getting only 2-3 frames, what i do wrong?
I’m using the stock camera and my frame rates fluctuate wildly from as low as 1 all the way up to 15. High frame rates seem to be only in short bursts. I’m not an expert on all the factors that affect this, but I suspect most of it is down to the fact that the computational power in the touchscreen is not a lot.
For most people, the primary functions of the camera are to keep tabs on the general situation with the print, and to take still frames that get composited into Timelapse video. For both of these purposes, the low frame rate is not a serious problem.
@@design8studio I tried reinstalling it with the guppyscreen version, and it seems to work very well resource exhaustion-wise, with this version I'm getting a smooth stream on the camera + not getting the printer turned off because of RAM exhaustion!
@@AlexSvider that’s very good to hear. That makes me want to go try out the guppyscreen variant as well! Thank you!
@@design8studio one more question regarding the external fan, when I turn it "on" on the LCD screen I hear the fan opening the servo, but if I make it 100% on the Klipper UI I hear the fan turning on but I don't hear the servo "opening" the fan door
Is there a way to get the camera to work in fluid or mainsailso I don’t have to keep switching the port number
My camera works in both Mainsail and Fluidd. There is a place, in Mainsail, for instance, to add your camera's details. I am not sure what you mean about switching port number.
In Mainsail, go to settings, then Webcam. There you input your camera's details. If you need help on that, let me know or check out the details on the Github and/or the discussion area of the Github. It's also been answered in discussion areas on Reddit.
I’m not seeing the option in the menus. Is there a way to do a pid calibration
So, I don't know off the top of my head if there is a macro button for it, but the following command can be tweaked as needed and entered into the Console: PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200
I've installed the last klipper, it worked. But I can't set the z_offset, every time I save it doent keep the change.
I had the same issue. Turns out it's a Klipper thing, that the Z_offset only gets referenced the *next time* you run a bed leveling (if I remember right). Once you set it, run bed leveling one more time, and then it "takes" - worked for me once I found that out.
I posted a reply with the same answer about 3 weeks ago, when it was fresher in my memory, so I think I told you correctly. See that earlier reply here: www.reddit.com/r/FlashForge/comments/1bmfyxs/comment/lfgjqkp/?context=3
@@design8studio thx, I didn't know, now by letting make new bed mesh I solve my problem! Thx!
maybe this should not have been one of the first videos I watched ....my god I am lost AF!!!!
Sorry if anything is confusing. There is pretty good documentation of getting started on the GitHub repo. There’s also a discussion area attached to the GitHub repo that is a great place to get help and answers to questions.
Klipper compatible for adventurer 5m pro?
Yes, this mod works equally well on both the 5M and 5M pro. As far as the main board, they both have the same in them. The only differences between the pro board and the non-pro one is there are some USB ports that are soldered in place that do not appear on the non-pro model. But as far as the processor, etc. it’s the same.
does it works on Adventurer 4 ?
@@marcoss4563 in order for it to work there had to have already been an install of the Klipper firmware from the factory on the main board, and the modifications had to be designed very specifically around that version of Klipper installed on the main board. My suspicion is that the needed conditions are not met in an earlier model from the manufacturer.
@@design8studio thanks
hi. where can i found set of build plates? from 17:15
The print set for OrcaSlicer is available from Flashforge on their wiki for the DIY enclosure - which is linked from their video about the DIY enclosure. Here's are links: wiki.flashforge.com/en/knowledge_corner/printer-mod-and-diy - th-cam.com/video/6-RHAFNZ6jk/w-d-xo.html
Of the items shown on build plates at 17:15, some of those are my designs and/or remixes, and those are linked in the description.