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What does a heart mean, works as expected?

@@michaelorlik3dwaldhessen318 yes. My first FluidDial is connected to my first Jackpot with no additional PCB or circuit board or module. My second FluidDial is connected to my second Jackpot with a PCB/module that is called a starter kit and it simply aims to simplify the wiring for people, but it’s not necessary. And I think a Jackpot can work with external drivers, but whether it can or not, is a question for the Jackpot itself. The FluidDial connects directly to the Jackpot, and will control it, regardless.

@@rehandedia4395 my understanding from googling very quickly is that a diode laser can engrave glass, however, there’s a difference between engraving glass and cutting glass. Some kinds of lasers can cut glass, and there are a lot of factors to consider. This may lead to a question of will engraved glass break along an engraved line, i.e. where the engraving is like a score. My understanding is that it will not because engraving glass does not stress the remaining glass the way that a glass cutter does. I hope this helps.

@@richardbennet8597 it’s working great for me so far.

@@BarryHayes-l2b did you happen to read my pinned comment which explains what to put in your start G code and end G code in the slicer settings?

The supported tube outside diameters are 29.5 mm, 30 mm, and 32 mm. The first, 29.5 mm, is the USA choice, because 1" EMT sold at home improvement stores has that outside diameter. It's readily available and affordable. The other two choices are for makers outside America. For those who cannot get US-style 1" EMT, other possibilities include heavy duty closet rod, and steel tubing bought from metal suppliers.

@@design8studio I live in Norway. and we all know americans tend to do their own thing.

@@toneandersen2944 So being you are in Norway, you would look for either 30mm or 32mm steel tube. If you find closet rod, make sure it is listed as heavy duty, and verify the wall thickness before buying. If you can inspect in person before buying, take some calipers with you to check wall thickness. USA' 1" EMT (1" inside diameter) has a targeted wall thickness of just under 1.5mm (1.4478 mm). I'd say anything from 1.2 mm to 2mm wall thickness would work. 3mm is just adding too much weight without any real benefit. I found some heavy duty closet rod here in US that had (if I remember right) wall thickness of 1.2mm or so. Try to get 1.5mm if you can.

@@design8studio Cool 30mm 2900mm length steel pipe that has 2mm thick walls cost 296 USD. Very expensive machine to start to make. Not worth it for me.

@@toneandersen2944 Quite a few makers outside the USA seem to have have sourced affordable tubing for this. Multiple shorter sections may be cheaper than long ones. The longest you need for each, for two for the X axis, is about 1400 mm or 1425 mm. For two for Y axis, two 1450 mm would give 2900mm. For the long Y rail, multiple shorter sections can be coupled together. My X gantry tubes are 1397 mm, but 1425 would be fine there too. A global map of V1E makers shows several LR4's built and running in EU and several in UK. If you are not on the V1E forum, please consider signing up. There have already been threads with discussion of best, most affordable sourcing for the steel tubes. If I remember right, they found options more affordable than the price you cited here.

Hello. As mentioned in the video, the software program is called LightBurn.

Great to hear! Thanks!

These would be good questions to pose on the V1E forum. It’s been a long time since I used the SKR, which uses the Marlin firmware. I’ve been using the Jackpot board, which uses FluidNC firmware, for a while now. So we need to get help from someone who is either an expert with Marlin, or has a very good memory.

Yes, Ryan is a great blessing to many people. Much appreciated.

Aw, thank you for the kind words!

@@Ashshaw54 I showed details on the feeds and speeds in the “part one” video which was the prequel to this, and that was released just before it. I’ll include a link, and I have the time index in the link set to about 3:16, which is right before I go into showing the feeds and speeds. However, if you have not watched that full “part one” video in its entirety, it’s really worth watching, in order to help you avoid pitfalls and get good results on milling aluminum with a Lowrider v3. Of course it’s totally doable with v4 as well but I cut these with my v3. th-cam.com/video/9eg3YsUKEoA/w-d-xo.html&si=1EBCSvgwwEmTCFmW

@@design8studio appreciate that! your kindness and help goes a long way!

Sorry. Maybe TH-cam changed their options. What part of the process was the failure?

Cool!

@@just_bright I’ve been there myself. I figure probably everybody goes through that at some point. It’s probably a little bit like when an author has writer’s block. It’s really worth it if you can push through and make at least a little bit of headway every day.

@@VaughnCampbell it’s a surprisingly capable setup!

Hello. The pendant firmware is still in beta, and there have been no releases published, which is why there are no version numbers for it. I last downloaded the pendant firmware on Sept 2, 2024. My understanding is that any changes/edits since then are not significant in regard to my usage. Are you aware of some significant changes since then?

@@design8studio There is a new TOOL menu and no more POWER menu (functionality of POWER menu now moved under ABOUT i think)....in FluidNC discord seems to be no more a beta version

@@IceCreams62 Interesting. Thanks for the heads up. I'm looking at the Github repo ( "github.com/bdring/FluidDial ) and it still says "Releases: No releases published" and "Packages: No packages published" - so I cannot yet see evidence it's not still beta. Nevertheless, I am interested to see what changes have been made since early Sept. Will check it out.

@@IceCreams62 I just downloaded and installed the latest pendant firmware, and do see the new tool menu and screen. The new screen is not yet documented on the wiki. I'll need to look into what it does and how to use it. Thanks!

That's awesome! It's a fun project. Also, the community support available in the forum at V1E.com is amazing. Feel free to share any questions there and you will get great help and advice.

@@AJay-ez1dc Thanks! You can build one at just about any size you want! In addition to my full size one, I made a smaller one on a table top that’s only 33” x 33”.

@@design8studio (apartment living now) i had to sell my mpcnc 2 years back i just have a small desktop for now

Aw, you are too kind!

Some of the worst imperfections I had to try to hide were on the other one, the K. On that one, if you can believe it, I actually made the mistake of not torquing down the collet nut tight enough. Because it is an up-cut bit, it means that the bit experiences a downward force during operation, trying to pull it out of the collet nut. This resulted in my very first cut effort on the K going deeper than it should have because the bit was slipping out, and before long, the bit did actually come completely out of the collet nut (and dug a hole in doing so). This is embarrassing for me to admit, because it’s such a rookie mistake. Anyhow, evidence of that is still visible in a couple of tiny spots on the finished K.

@@zemlejna1 I built that router table myself using scrap plywood. However, not all of it was custom-made. I did custom design and print a dust shroud that attaches to the router’s cylinder-sleeve height-adjustment thing underneath, but that router height adjustment sleeve itself was the stock one that came with the Makita router - and I have that screwed to an aluminum router plate (that you see at the top), which was purchased, that’s just a generic one from AliExpress. In hindsight, I could have cut /machined some aluminum and 3D printed some plastic clearance disk plates. Before you ever actually have something functional in hand, it’s hard to conceive what it needs to look like, so, although I now feel confident I could make it, I did not feel so confident before I actually owned and possessed it.

@@zemlejna1 yes, the v4 has a taller Z maximum than the v3. One caveat though: the upper reaches of that are not really good for cutting - unless soft material such as foam. It does allow easier access underneath and allows for “hopping” the machine over some stuff on your cutting bed.

@@design8studio Hello, Would it be possible for you to elaborate a little more, to get some figures. Can we plunge 70mm? And the first 10mm is useless in oak? And also if you can, could you tell me what is the precision on say an half sheet plywood on a full sheet lr4. If i cut a square in all of it it. Is it sub 0,5 mm , 0,1 mm ? Thanks in advance

@@ksafyer The machine is at its most rigid when it's at its lowest position. If you need to cut deeply into hardwood, it's advisable to stack strips of wood on the sides, for the LowRider to ride higher than the spoil board, without the machine being raised up much on its lead screws. This concept is referred to as a drop table (since, from the LowRider's perspective, the table got dropped, instead of the LowRider climbing high on its lead screws). For really deep use of a drop table, you probably would want a bit that's longer than normal. A LowRider can get pretty good precision, including in plywood, assuming it's assembled correctly, with core bearings properly tightened, and belts properly tightened. If it's off, it's not by much, and any variance would likely be inside cuts (holes) slightly smaller and outside cuts the opposite. I think the variance would be 0.1 mm or so.

@@ksafyer Re. "Can we plunge 70mm?" You technically can, but whether or not you get too much deflection or problems will depend on factors including chip load, how sharp the bit is, and how hard the material is, etc, etc.

@@AzaB2C thanks my friend! I appreciate all your work and helpfulness! Merry Christmas!

Thanks!

I am very pleased with the functionality of the printer, and also pleased with the remote control /interface options offered by the MOD. My preference for the UI on the touchscreen would be Klipperscreen, but that one seems to be borderline on using too much resources, and sometimes it bombed out. So I switched to using the Guppyscreen interface. It’s not quite as nice, but it also has never locked up on me. In an ideal world, we would have limitless available resources on a machine that costs nothing. But in the real world, there’s a trade-off between saving money versus available resources. This printer seems to strike a balance very close to the ideal - walking a tight rope on cost versus available resources.

The only plugin I know that has been shoe-horned in by the mod's developers is support for the time lapse feature, but in general adding plugins is not doable because the available resources are so limited. Side note: I have the version that's supposed to support time lapse videos, but I cannot get it to work.

@@manuel509rios I have the latest version that is supposed to include support for time lapse, but it does not work. At least for me, on both of my AD5M printers that are identical in their firmware and interface - that feature does not work. I’ve also purchased a third one of these and I’ll be outfitting it and if I install everything on that and it does not work there then I’m definitely going to have to conclude that something is missing from the documentation or something is missing in the batch of files.

Forgot to say, I am using Orca Slicer just like you.

The dimensions from the printer.base.cfg on the github seem completely wrong, can you please verify for me what it says in yours? Thank you. :)

I have no idea what's going on there. I suggest asking about this on the Github Discussion area where the mod is published. Re. printer.base.cfg - I'm pretty sure the file that gets used is printer.cfg, not printer.base.cfg.

I'm not sure what's going on there. If you are looking at the right place in the console's feedback, then it may be that some difference in the firmware version affects the formatting of the output. I can scarcely imagine any valid reason for describing a probe value as a hold value.??

@ I just DM’d you on the V1E forum with a screenshot. Maybe you can see something I don’t.

This config file for FluidNC was originally downloaded from V1E.com and I later increased its max travel speed, and I think I upped its acceleration value by some amount. The machine itself ought to be tested for both squareness and the gantry being trammed to the table, however when this test was done, I had not done either squareness or tramming. Because this machine is smaller than a full size table, it's less crucial but should still be done. Ryan, founder of V1 Engineering, mentioned likely updating the downloadable config file to account for the increased rigidity and ability of the new LR4. I don't know yet if he did that. If anyone wants to see my config file to compare to their own, I'm willing to share, with the caveat that it's not advisable to simply swap in someone else's config file, because they may have add-ons (I have a FluidDial pendant) and the latest config file from V1E.com may have newer content that is beneficial.

@@trogdor73 this sounds like a good question for the discussion area of the GitHub for the mod

It's a great machine!

I think i’m gonna use primo for making the frame for low rider, 32mm railing is huge

Sure. In the config.yaml, for each axis, there is a variable named "max_travel_mm" or some such. It comes with default values, and the default values are ignored because the variable named soft_limits is set to false. If you edit the max travel to match what your machine can actually do, and then enable soft_limits on each axis, it makes it nice for jogging as you cannot crash into a hard limit unless your machine has skipped steps and is confused about where it is.

@@design8studio So, for example, I know my starting point is X0 Y65 after doing a machine home. I haven't actually measured the max... but for this exercise let's say it's 2000. Is there a 'min_travel_mm' as well for each axis so that, after it's machine home, it will reset itself to worktable home? If that makes sense? Basically I followed the table dimensions to a T for a full sheet in Ryan's calculator. So the obvious is that the X and Y axis is built slightly larger than a full sheet.

@@jsolomo5 You'll pleased to know, even if it takes a moment to process it, that the machine can always keep track of two origins, a "machine origin" and a "work origin." When you home the machine, it will need to push against the end stop, but then pull away a few mm (about 3-5 mm ideally) enough to reliably get the limit switch to not still be triggered. That adjusted point will get set to your "machine origin." Then you can move (jog) to your start point, which is your work origin, and set your X and Y to zero there, and that becomes your distinct origin for a given job. But the max_travel_mm value should be what your machine can do from the machine origin, not just from the work origin.

In the list of variants, there is one included for removal. You put that one on a USB thumb drive and insert it and turn the printer on. My understanding is that since this mod does not remove your original firmware to begin with, simply re-flashing the stock firmware won't remove this mod.

I used the Klipperscreen version for a lot of prints at 220c. I never had any issue like this. Sorry, I don't know an answer. Maybe post in the discussion area on the Github repo.

@@design8studio maybe i flashed it wrong lol not sure going to try again later

You're welcome!

@@manuel509rios it does. That’s why the GitHub repo is named as for AD5M(pro).

The way I did it was to home my machine, zero out at the homed location, then move (jog) to the X max and Y max extremes, and carefully note how far I could go before making contact, then back off from that just a smidge, and see what the values are. Then, after saving a backup copy of your config,YAML file, edit the config file and input those values into the max_travel_mm value per axis. Then, also per axis, enable soft limits. I used to also enable hard limits, but unless you have limit switches on both sides and end stops at both ends, you’re not going to get a hard stop limit action at both ends, And I actually had my dust hose get against a limit switch blade during movement and it made the machine instantly and needlessly halt because it thought a hard stop had been reached and threw an alarm. So I no longer have hard stops enabled. But all this is done in the config file. Then connect and upload your new config file. Reboot. Then test and adjust if needed. You can also do Z, I do. It’s a little different. I guess you would remove the bit from the router and find how much the travel you have, enable soft limit to prevent crashes at the max location.

So the start of a cut is like a spiral motion version of straight downward drilling, only far slower than you would think it would be. It’s almost maddeningly slow. But once it finally reaches full depth and hits into the forward-motion spiral-type cutting then it was worth the wait. I don’t know if there’s a way in ESTLcam to speed up how fast it’s moving downward, but it seems to be like it could afford to be faster than it is.

It can work with LR4 - I’m running LR4 on this table now. A little attention to detail is all that it takes.

I have shared on Printables the printed parts for that. I think if you filter my list of models by the word “saw” you can find them.

@@GSeymore you can raise the limit in both ESTLCam (or?) and in FluidNC config file.

@design8studio I didn't see a limit in EstlCAM, is it there, or do you men the Fxy for the tool? I have max_rate_mm_per_min at 9000 for X and y axes so I figured I was good there. Are these the settings you are referring to?

I reread my orig comment and should have clarified that I can get the machine to move significantly faster than that normally, but I turn up the Fxy to 5000 on trochoidal and it doesn't go any faster than at around 1000mm/min (ie, set on 5000 but feedrate overrides don't make a difference until around 20% which I think means the software is maxed out).

@@GSeymore In ESTLCam there is a governing max speed limit in the settings. I am not at home right now, so I can’t verify by looking at my computer. But if you go into the settings, you can set that max speed up. Similarly in the FluidNC config file there is a max speed that you can raise.

@@GSeymore I just read your clarification, and I had noticed that forward movement during trochoidal milling is slower than the rate shown, and I just assumed that the rate applied to the speed at which it’s doing the orbital motions, and that the forward motion was some kind of fractional calculation based on that orbital motion. I could be wrong. I guess I need to look into that some more.

It cuts OSB easily. Depth depends on how long your bit is. Most bits are made to cut up to 25.4 mm (1”) in depth.

Thanks! As a young man I would draw cars like this continually, and at one time, even built one out of Balsawood! If you had told me then, one day, I could design in the computer in three dimensions, and then print it - I would have not been able to believe it!

Wow, that would be frustrating!

@@jdrollason several are pointing out that they feel that the LowRider is better in both small format and large format. It is a little bit more involved of a build than the MPCNC, but those who have built both say that they like the LowRider’s easier material loading options and other things about it.

@@jdrollason look for a thread on the V1E forum, titled “LowRider stubby.”

@design8studio that helps. Thank you. I do the like the more open concept of it. Thank you

Yes, this has been addressed quite a bit on the forum. Much of the hardware kit is still usable. Lowrider v3 items that don’t carry over to v4 include: the XZ plates, the lead screws (which need to be longer), and that’s about it. Everything else should carry over. There are less screws needed on some screw sizes and a handful more are needed on, I think, at least one screw size. You can reuse the motors, the pulleys, the idlers, most of the screws, the end stops, and all the wiring. Of course all the printed parts are different. One last point is not regarding the hardware kit, but rather the steel tubes used. The Lowrider 4 uses larger diameter steel tubes, so if you already bought tubes for v3, you’ll need to replace them. The good news is for many people the larger tubes are available and affordable. In America, it is sold as 1 inch EMT, which is sold based on inside diameter, but it has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. Options for people outside the USA include 30 mm and 32 mm outside diameter. Some heavy duty closet rod can be usable. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wall if trying to use something other than the EMT. The EMT seems to have a wall thickness between 1.4 to 1.6 mm. Anything with a wall thickness up to 2 mm should be OK. Beyond that it doesn’t help with strength and just adds weight and is kind of overkill. The diameter matters more for strength, unless the wall is really thin.

Yes, this has been addressed quite a bit on the forum. Much of the hardware kit is still usable. Lowrider v3 items that don’t carry over to v4 include: the XZ plates, the lead screws (which need to be longer), and that’s about it. Everything else should carry over. There are less screws needed on some screw sizes and a handful more are needed on, I think, at least one screw size. You can reuse the motors, the pulleys, the idlers, most of the screws, the end stops, and all the wiring. Of course all the printed parts are different. One last point is not regarding the hardware kit, but rather the steel tubes used. The Lowrider 4 uses larger diameter steel tubes, so if you already bought tubes for v3, you’ll need to replace them. The good news is for many people the larger tubes are available and affordable. In America, it is sold as 1 inch EMT, which is sold based on inside diameter, but it has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. Options for people outside the USA include 30 mm and 32 mm outside diameter. Some heavy duty closet rod can be usable. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wall if trying to use something other than the EMT. The EMT seems to have a wall thickness between 1.4 to 1.6 mm. Anything with a wall thickness up to 2 mm should be OK. Beyond that it doesn’t help with strength and just adds weight and is kind of overkill. The diameter matters more for strength, unless the wall is really thin.

@ exactly what I wanted to hear thank you