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The way I did it was to home my machine, zero out at the homed location, then move (jog) to the X max and Y max extremes, and carefully note how far I could go before making contact, then back off from that just a smidge, and see what the values are. Then, after saving a backup copy of your config,YAML file, edit the config file and input those values into the max_travel_mm value per axis. Then, also per axis, enable soft limits. I used to also enable hard limits, but unless you have limit switches on both sides and end stops at both ends, you’re not going to get a hard stop limit action at both ends, And I actually had my dust hose get against a limit switch blade during movement and it made the machine instantly and needlessly halt because it thought a hard stop had been reached and threw an alarm. So I no longer have hard stops enabled. But all this is done in the config file. Then connect and upload your new config file. Reboot. Then test and adjust if needed. You can also do Z, I do. It’s a little different. I guess you would remove the bit from the router and find how much the travel you have, enable soft limit to prevent crashes at the max location.

So the start of a cut is like a spiral motion version of straight downward drilling, only far slower than you would think it would be. It’s almost maddeningly slow. But once it finally reaches full depth and hits into the forward-motion spiral-type cutting then it was worth the wait. I don’t know if there’s a way in ESTLcam to speed up how fast it’s moving downward, but it seems to be like it could afford to be faster than it is.

It can work with LR4 - I’m running LR4 on this table now. A little attention to detail is all that it takes.

I have shared on Printables the printed parts for that. I think if you filter my list of models by the word “saw” you can find them.

@@GSeymore you can raise the limit in both ESTLCam (or?) and in FluidNC config file.

@design8studio I didn't see a limit in EstlCAM, is it there, or do you men the Fxy for the tool? I have max_rate_mm_per_min at 9000 for X and y axes so I figured I was good there. Are these the settings you are referring to?

I reread my orig comment and should have clarified that I can get the machine to move significantly faster than that normally, but I turn up the Fxy to 5000 on trochoidal and it doesn't go any faster than at around 1000mm/min (ie, set on 5000 but feedrate overrides don't make a difference until around 20% which I think means the software is maxed out).

@@GSeymore In ESTLCam there is a governing max speed limit in the settings. I am not at home right now, so I can’t verify by looking at my computer. But if you go into the settings, you can set that max speed up. Similarly in the FluidNC config file there is a max speed that you can raise.

@@GSeymore I just read your clarification, and I had noticed that forward movement during trochoidal milling is slower than the rate shown, and I just assumed that the rate applied to the speed at which it’s doing the orbital motions, and that the forward motion was some kind of fractional calculation based on that orbital motion. I could be wrong. I guess I need to look into that some more.

It cuts OSB easily. Depth depends on how long your bit is. Most bits are made to cut up to 25.4 mm (1”) in depth.

Thanks! As a young man I would draw cars like this continually, and at one time, even built one out of Balsawood! If you had told me then, one day, I could design in the computer in three dimensions, and then print it - I would have not been able to believe it!

@@jdrollason several are pointing out that they feel that the LowRider is better in both small format and large format. It is a little bit more involved of a build than the MPCNC, but those who have built both say that they like the LowRider’s easier material loading options and other things about it.

@@jdrollason look for a thread on the V1E forum, titled “LowRider stubby.”

@design8studio that helps. Thank you. I do the like the more open concept of it. Thank you

Yes, this has been addressed quite a bit on the forum. Much of the hardware kit is still usable. Lowrider v3 items that don’t carry over to v4 include: the XZ plates, the lead screws (which need to be longer), and that’s about it. Everything else should carry over. There are less screws needed on some screw sizes and a handful more are needed on, I think, at least one screw size. You can reuse the motors, the pulleys, the idlers, most of the screws, the end stops, and all the wiring. Of course all the printed parts are different. One last point is not regarding the hardware kit, but rather the steel tubes used. The Lowrider 4 uses larger diameter steel tubes, so if you already bought tubes for v3, you’ll need to replace them. The good news is for many people the larger tubes are available and affordable. In America, it is sold as 1 inch EMT, which is sold based on inside diameter, but it has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. Options for people outside the USA include 30 mm and 32 mm outside diameter. Some heavy duty closet rod can be usable. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wall if trying to use something other than the EMT. The EMT seems to have a wall thickness between 1.4 to 1.6 mm. Anything with a wall thickness up to 2 mm should be OK. Beyond that it doesn’t help with strength and just adds weight and is kind of overkill. The diameter matters more for strength, unless the wall is really thin.

Yes, this has been addressed quite a bit on the forum. Much of the hardware kit is still usable. Lowrider v3 items that don’t carry over to v4 include: the XZ plates, the lead screws (which need to be longer), and that’s about it. Everything else should carry over. There are less screws needed on some screw sizes and a handful more are needed on, I think, at least one screw size. You can reuse the motors, the pulleys, the idlers, most of the screws, the end stops, and all the wiring. Of course all the printed parts are different. One last point is not regarding the hardware kit, but rather the steel tubes used. The Lowrider 4 uses larger diameter steel tubes, so if you already bought tubes for v3, you’ll need to replace them. The good news is for many people the larger tubes are available and affordable. In America, it is sold as 1 inch EMT, which is sold based on inside diameter, but it has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm. Options for people outside the USA include 30 mm and 32 mm outside diameter. Some heavy duty closet rod can be usable. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wall if trying to use something other than the EMT. The EMT seems to have a wall thickness between 1.4 to 1.6 mm. Anything with a wall thickness up to 2 mm should be OK. Beyond that it doesn’t help with strength and just adds weight and is kind of overkill. The diameter matters more for strength, unless the wall is really thin.

@ exactly what I wanted to hear thank you

Decisions, decisions! 🙂

I went with the Mesa stuff and LinuxCNC. I feel like it's the best thing going for the price. FlashCut CNC has very robust plasma software that include integrated CAD software but It only works with their controller hardware which is much more expensive

@@mrburns366 Cool

The FluidNC firmware supports pause and resume, and quit, through buttons in the WebUI and buttons on the FluidDial. My guess is that those buttons invoke the standard GCodes for that functionality. FluidNC is basically GRBL compatible.

I was able to reuse the same table for the LowRider 4. It just took a little bit of attention to detail to get the new mounts at the right placement for the correct dimensions. Can you help me understand what you meant by incremental spacing?

@@design8studio Now if you ask perhaps the spacing is equal between the ribs, and only the camera wide lens make it look like that're positioned in an incremental way along the Y axis.

@@attilah The spacing is indeed equal between each of the ribs, and also between each of the spars. It must just be an optical illusion caused by perspective.

It is an impressive machine!

Thanks!

Cool. NOTE: 24v fans are available, affordable, and would make use of a buck converter unnecessary. Please don’t assume a buck converter is needed to make a fan work on a LowRider. Just wiring the right fan to the power terminals is good. I bought 24v fans, but the ones I got were very loud, even when under-volted. So, I used a quieter fan I already had on hand, but it was 12v and thus needed a buck converter. I could have, and probably should have, explored quieter 24v fans!

There are improvements across everything, which although each one may seem minor, all accumulate to a better machine. Starting with the gantry, my LR3 had 1" OD (25.4 mm) stainless steel tubes. The LR4 has either 29.5 mm OD (EMT is sold based on ID, so 1" EMT is 29.5 OD), or 30 or 32mm steel tubes. The larger tubes are stronger than smaller, even if the smaller is stainless. The rest is a lot of tightening up for rigidity, beefing were more beef was needed etc. This gantry is more rigid than my LR3 gantry was. Cuts are being made with stock LR4s that were not doable with stock LR3s.

@@Transformers1983jd I just looked on their online store and looks to me like they still sell them. Am I missing something? store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Thcad

Thanks! In the world of CNC, tool changer usually refers to automatic tool changer. There are people who make such things in a DIY fashion. However, I don’t have one and since they require a spindle that can rotate in both directions - and most of us use trim routers that can only spin in one direction, it’s not something you’re likely to see on a V1 machine. I don’t have one, and there’s not one shown in the video. So I’m a little confused on what you are referring to.

Perhaps you are referring to the pendant dial that I am using to control the machine? If so, that is called the FluidDial pendant.

I remember watching your plasma cutter video with a very cool torch attached with magnets. Maybe I wrongly assume that was a quick tool changer for router/plasma/laser. I'm trying to keep up with your videos... sorry for that.

@@luisvegano Ah! I understand you now. Those magnets were so that if the plasma torch ever got snagged on a piece of metal that was sticking up, the torch could detach instead of being damaged. Magnetic breakaway.

@@luisvegano All the printable designs I made for the plasma based LowRider 3 are available on Printables here: www.printables.com/@design8studio/models?search=plasma

I recently started using a sharp chisel to cut tabs, and there’s a lot to like about it, because it can reduce the amount of sanding needed afterward. You do have to be careful though, because you could cause a little bit of a blowout at the last part where the tab meets the other surface.

Cool!

Sounds good! Glad it was a help!

It's been a while so I don't remember exactly, but it was not bad. With new LowRider v4 the depth of cut can be even deeper for a faster cut and completion sooner.

I didn't think to measure. The next test (see recent video) was in Alder wood and I did design it for a test of dimensionality with assembly test.

Since the torch can be moved in any direction in the XY plane and could encounter a metal lip or obstacle from any angle, I like it being able to detach easily to keep from damaging my torch. It's worked well in the rare instances I have needed to detach!

@@design8studio Ok ya, makes sense. Thanks for the reply.

Yes indeed. It essentially makes the printer a fully Klipper-ized printer, and I have already bought the Calilantern calibration thing and I have already ran the tests and applied *all* the shew correction fixes it recommended in the spreadsheet, using the instruction for Klipper. I am also pleased to say both my AD5M printers (which had already been modded with the Klipper mod) scored rather well on the Calilantern calibration test as they came, and even better after adding the corrections.

Perhaps doable. So, a few things here. 1. The new LR4 can have the mounts loosened to remove the router, without loosening the mounts themselves from the core. It was not that way on the previous version, LR3, and I think it's a great improvement. 2. Frequent removal and reinstall of router / other tools would probably be made easier and better if you install a power outlet socket right by the core, and lop off most of the power cord of the router, and have a plug on the end of a very short router cord (and same for other tool being swapped in). Then your power cord with the mounted outlet on it can stay permanently installed in the gantry's wiring harness. 3. I had an idea for a cam lever based way of removal and reinstall of router. I have not done it yet. I suggested it privately to Ryan. He pointed that the tolerances will be tight on the right amount of tension. 4. The tool mounts are designed for the diameter of your selected router. To make a sanding tool fit in the same mounts, it would either need to be same diameter as router, or be made to match via [printable?] adapter. 5. One can always redesign the mounts to hold two tools, but the further away a tool is from the core, the more forces there are that cause deflection, runout, etc. The tool where those forces matter the least, would be best choice for the added on tool.

True I didn’t think of the deflection.

Yes indeed. Can still use any 5 driver board. List of recommended includes Jackpot and SKR.

Regarding the case / enclosure for the control board, Ryan has offered a basic box that fits and works, and some variations or self-created versions were made during the beta, but I don't think they were shared yet.

@design8studio sorry for the late response , thank you !!

The new LR4 has more Z movement range than the LR3, and neither Dan nor I saw any need to bother with modding for additional height, especially since the LowRider's most rigid position is all the way down, so upper regions are not the best strength for cutting. For those who need to cut deep, a drop table, aka deep cuts table, is better. Instead of raising the machine, lower the material!

@@design8studioany examples of a drop table that are in use for full length machines? Really grateful for the work you guys put in!!! 🎉🎉🎉

@@badcraftwoodworking6682 All that is needed for that would be, for example, to buy some long strips of MDF, and stack up as many as you need, and attach them to the sides of the table for the LowRider to ride on them. If those strips are secured, and the LowRider belt tensioners are securely attached to the top one, then you have just increased the LowRider’s ability to make deep cuts in a way that does not compromise the machine’s rigidity. We need to find a new name other than drop table because it unintentionally gives the impression that the table needs to be able to move or drop when really what we’re talking about is giving the table added height on the edges where the LowRider runs.

@@jerrydparks5173 Ryan will be posting them to Printables.com and Thingiverse.com as soon as he can. The hardware kits did go on sale on his website yesterday, and we’ll just have to wait patiently for the printable files. Hopefully soon!

@design8studio awesome thank you for the incite ! This is an amazing update, I'm excited for this new build ! Appreciate all that you do for the community as well!

He’s working to get them posted while also working to fill orders. The first part was posted yesterday on Printables. More expected today.

Only Ryan could answer. His track record is that everything is potentially upgradable.

I think I used the 1/4” single flute carbide upcut end mill that Ryan sells at V1E.com!

The hardware kit for the new LR4 started selling today on Ryan's site at v1e.com! The printed parts will likely be available on Printables.com and Thingiverse.com sometime soon, likely in the next day or two! Also, check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

One of the best ways to get to know your way around it, is to check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

The hardware kit for the new LR4 started selling today on Ryan's site at v1e.com! The printed parts models will likely be available on Printables.com and Thingiverse.com sometime soon, likely in the next day or two. Also, check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

Check out the new assembly documentation being worked on even as we speak: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

I'm doing that now! Takes longer to take the old LR3 apart than it does to build the LR4 that replaces it. The hardware, steppers, couplers, bearings, idlers, etc all carry over. The lead screws need to be longer, unless your LR3 was a "tall" version. The linear guides also need to be longer. There is new build documentation being worked on as we speak. Check it out at: docs.v1e.com/lowrider/

I designed it in SketchUp, so sorry!

@@stevemecham7281 1/4” MDF is a pretty good material for the struts. According to Ryan, he ranks MDF highly, just underneath hardboard. He recommends avoiding plywood, especially the lightweight, flimsy kind. Basically raw (unprocessed) wood can expand and contract, which is the opposite of what you want, so dimensional lumber is not a good choice, and plywood is better, but only somewhat. At least not ideal. My understanding from Ryan is the more processed a wood byproduct is, the more resistant it is to stretching and contracting, and this is why highly processed materials such as MDF and hardboard are what he recommends.

😊 All the thanks to Ryan for this!

@@design8studio ill thank him with $$$ lol just ordered the upgrade kit.

Ah! Sorry for any confusion about the material

My efforts to research into it on Google had indicated that it is classed as a hardwood, though is on the softer side among the hardwoods. I did an additional search just now, and apparently there are variations of the species which are either classed as hardwood or softwood, depending on the variation!

@@design8studio yeah there are many variation of Alder and obviously the climate might effect on hardness as well. I am not true wood specialist here. Anyhow I am really amazed Your cut depth and speed etc using Nema 17! And You mentioned that even AL is been cut 1/4" on a single pass... quite unbelieveble. I am not concerned of 3D printed CNC parts moreover of the power of Nema 17....

@@jesse00077 if I’m not mistaken, the test cut shown was powering them at a very comfortable 0.8 A. They can afford to have the amps upped to 0.85, 0.88 or maybe even 0.9 before getting very warm, and if someone were to print their motor mounts (and parts that are close to the heat) out of PETG, then someone could run the NEMA 17s at even one full amp or more, and so the holding power and torque are more than what most of us would imagine!

Check out "Janka hardness scale"

@@yellowyuzu1311 😂