A quick tip for setting up the clutch actuator (the rod that goes through the casing and connects the clutch cable to the clutch). Remove the push lever from the top of the actuator, held on with a circlip and a washer and note where there return spring goes. The now actuator has nothing attached to it. Fit the casing and when the rod engages with the clutch the case will push home. You'll now see the rod will only rotate about 1/4 of a turn before feeling resistance. This is good. Now you need to fit the push leaver back onto the actuator, you'll see that the return spring will rotate the actuator, the trick here is to line up the arrow on the casing with the dot on the back of the push lever WITH the spring in place, this will take a few tries to get right but need to move the lever around on the splines one at a time. Once the dots line up try pushing the lever towards the engine, it shouldn't move...this is good. Now re-attach the clutch cable, if you've done it right this will "just" go on. Now you should have a working clutch.
DUDE. Thank you for fleshing this out in its entirety. You cleared up two mistakes I made that were driving me crazy. Firstly, I was sure the wire bracket that is held by two bolts on the left side went BENEATH the crankcase cover, but I guess it rests on top. That explains why I had the slightest drip of oil on startup. Second, you have to be sure to get the angle of the torsion spring and clutch barrel JUST right, or you won't have the proper clutch tension at the lever, and you won't be able to actually disengage the clutch at all. I've probably had this damn cover on and off 12 times now... THANK you.
I’m at that stage now, getting the actuator arm to engage with the teeth on the push rod. It is a royal pain in the ass. I have had the dot lined up but there’s little resistance meaning the teeth aren’t engaged right. Any tipster? Have thought about pull the arm off with a snap pliers
@@johnsutcliffe1201 so John you want the push rod’s teeth to face downward, and ever so slightly to the right when replacing the cover. Also, that arm actually shouldn’t be on the dot. It’s just wrong for some reason. If you engage the arm right on the dot, your torsion spring won’t give the clutch enough resistance to engage and disengage fully. You want it facing a little bit closer to you than right on that dot, then you can adjust your cable tension as needed. Washers first, then barrel adjuster by your clutch lever. Hope this helps!
@@johnsutcliffe1201 let me know how it goes! if ya have trouble you can dial me I’ll help you get back rolling again. it was a real pain in my ass too lol
Really really appealing machine, that FZ/MT-09. One of the biggest pet peeves of mine about the model is the lack of fuel capacity. I'd tour on it, but I'd like at least a 160-180 mile range. I guess a person could always tow a mono-wheel trailer and or strap gas packs on the bike for extra range. Maybe it's not an issue as much as I believe it to be. The best way to bond with one's bike is to work on the sucker, do maintenance one's self. If a person has the space and decent tools, it's invaluable to do the work one's self. Save money, learn the bike, appreciate how/why it works well.
@@vincemanley9001 Up to date now, the USA now offers the SP model and everything short of the valve stem caps has changed. It now has cruise control and a more burly midrange with 890cc (if that was actually needed). Fuel injection is said to make it another 4 mpg potentially. My current '18 is getting just past 50 mpg.
Tip for next time or anybody else looking to do this. On the rear stand without a load on the engine will not tell you if or how well you QS is working. Any bike will bang through gears quickly on a rear stand, you have to test it under load to see how it functions.
O liquido que você passou no disco de embreagem foi o próprio oléo de motor da moto ? Elas estão com um liquido,poderia falar o porque de colocar ? Por favor
I ground a small hole in my cover after a low side. One JB Weld patch later I can't get the tension for the clutch rod/cable correct so it lurches and dies when shifting to 1st. How exactly did you have the little arm set to get it to connect properly? Thank you.
Little Green the same exact thing happened to me when I first buttoned everything back up. What's happening is the clutch isn't disengaging enough. When you go to put the cover back on make sure to push the black piece down further than you think you should have to as you put the cover on. (When I refer to "black piece" I mean the small black arm that your clutch cable hooks into near the top of the cover) because when you put the cover on the teeth on the inner rod are going to pull that black piece up into place. If it's not far enough down to begin with before you put the cover on then you wont have enough tension in the clutch lever and the clutch wont be fully engaging. Sorry if my wording is confusing! I hope this helps! It took me probably 3 or 4 times of taking the cover back off to get it right. Thanks for checking out the channel!!!! 😀✌
Hello. Thank you for the video. I have a Yamaha FZ09 or as it calls here in Brasi - MT09. it has made a noise in the clutch system, I believe the bearing of the pressure plate. if you have any recommendations, I am grateful. I also wanted to increase mine with this akrapovic escape. I also liked the cover protector. I would like to make these improvements. Thank you very much in advance
How many Km is on the bike? And what year is it? I havent heard of the throw out bearing going on these bikes but I'm sure anything is possible. Also if it's a loud ticking noise it could very well be the *Cam chain Tensioner* especially if it's an older mt09. They were known to have a big problem with the cam chain tensioner failing. A popular fix is a manual cam chain tensioner. Hope this helps!
year 2015, it is 27000km. I rule out the possibility of the harness because the noise is when I loose the clutch. when I drive the clutch the noise stops. I also discarded the bearing of the pressure plate, I dismounted and replaced the bearing the noise keeps. I noticed a small gap between the gear and the bell (clutch hub). I'm suspicious of this slack that causes the vibration.
I don’t think so but if you are going to replace the clutch you should replace the dirt oil and the old clutch residuals thats what am goint to do but i ned the spring bolts torque
10K and you need new clutch plates? Is there some reason for that? I'm very interested in getting one of these but not if the clutch is prone to needing this much attention.
Honestly I'm not sure. When I pulled the old plates out they actually didnt look too worn out actually. Most people who are doing this service on the bike are pulling out plates that are broken and blown apart. Honestly if you havent gotten to ride an Fz09 yet then please try to get on one. Once you get a chance to ride one then replacing the clutch will be your last concern for how much joy the bike will bring to you.
I have a 2014 with 22k miles on the stock clutch and have never had any clutch issues. But I’m also pretty smooth, leaning more towards bogging off the line rather than slipping it heavily. I wonder if guys coming off of less torquey bikes are punishing the clutch unnecessarily.
Abdulrahman Kouli in regards to the quickshifter. The parts for the 16 fz09 will be the same as the ones stated in the video. Shift rods B and C along with the quickshifter itself will be needed.
A quick tip for setting up the clutch actuator (the rod that goes through the casing and connects the clutch cable to the clutch). Remove the push lever from the top of the actuator, held on with a circlip and a washer and note where there return spring goes. The now actuator has nothing attached to it. Fit the casing and when the rod engages with the clutch the case will push home. You'll now see the rod will only rotate about 1/4 of a turn before feeling resistance. This is good. Now you need to fit the push leaver back onto the actuator, you'll see that the return spring will rotate the actuator, the trick here is to line up the arrow on the casing with the dot on the back of the push lever WITH the spring in place, this will take a few tries to get right but need to move the lever around on the splines one at a time. Once the dots line up try pushing the lever towards the engine, it shouldn't move...this is good. Now re-attach the clutch cable, if you've done it right this will "just" go on. Now you should have a working clutch.
So when I pull the clutch lever the dot should be lined up with arrow??
DUDE. Thank you for fleshing this out in its entirety. You cleared up two mistakes I made that were driving me crazy. Firstly, I was sure the wire bracket that is held by two bolts on the left side went BENEATH the crankcase cover, but I guess it rests on top. That explains why I had the slightest drip of oil on startup. Second, you have to be sure to get the angle of the torsion spring and clutch barrel JUST right, or you won't have the proper clutch tension at the lever, and you won't be able to actually disengage the clutch at all. I've probably had this damn cover on and off 12 times now... THANK you.
I’m at that stage now, getting the actuator arm to engage with the teeth on the push rod. It is a royal pain in the ass. I have had the dot lined up but there’s little resistance meaning the teeth aren’t engaged right. Any tipster? Have thought about pull the arm off with a snap pliers
@@johnsutcliffe1201 so John you want the push rod’s teeth to face downward, and ever so slightly to the right when replacing the cover. Also, that arm actually shouldn’t be on the dot. It’s just wrong for some reason. If you engage the arm right on the dot, your torsion spring won’t give the clutch enough resistance to engage and disengage fully. You want it facing a little bit closer to you than right on that dot, then you can adjust your cable tension as needed. Washers first, then barrel adjuster by your clutch lever. Hope this helps!
@@vincemanley9001 Cheers. I'll give it a go 👍
@@johnsutcliffe1201 let me know how it goes! if ya have trouble you can dial me I’ll help you get back rolling again. it was a real pain in my ass too lol
Really really appealing machine, that FZ/MT-09. One of the biggest pet peeves of mine about the model is the lack of fuel capacity. I'd tour on it, but I'd like at least a 160-180 mile range. I guess a person could always tow a mono-wheel trailer and or strap gas packs on the bike for extra range. Maybe it's not an issue as much as I believe it to be.
The best way to bond with one's bike is to work on the sucker, do maintenance one's self. If a person has the space and decent tools, it's invaluable to do the work one's self. Save money, learn the bike, appreciate how/why it works well.
Much agreed, all of that really. I just got it back running so I’ve been riding a good bit. Went through 2 tanks in two days, not even touring 🤯
@@vincemanley9001 Up to date now, the USA now offers the SP model and everything short of the valve stem caps has changed. It now has cruise control and a more burly midrange with 890cc (if that was actually needed). Fuel injection is said to make it another 4 mpg potentially. My current '18 is getting just past 50 mpg.
Tip for next time or anybody else looking to do this. On the rear stand without a load on the engine will not tell you if or how well you QS is working. Any bike will bang through gears quickly on a rear stand, you have to test it under load to see how it functions.
O liquido que você passou no disco de embreagem foi o próprio oléo de motor da moto ? Elas estão com um liquido,poderia falar o porque de colocar ? Por favor
I ground a small hole in my cover after a low side. One JB Weld patch later I can't get the tension for the clutch rod/cable correct so it lurches and dies when shifting to 1st. How exactly did you have the little arm set to get it to connect properly? Thank you.
Little Green the same exact thing happened to me when I first buttoned everything back up. What's happening is the clutch isn't disengaging enough. When you go to put the cover back on make sure to push the black piece down further than you think you should have to as you put the cover on. (When I refer to "black piece" I mean the small black arm that your clutch cable hooks into near the top of the cover) because when you put the cover on the teeth on the inner rod are going to pull that black piece up into place. If it's not far enough down to begin with before you put the cover on then you wont have enough tension in the clutch lever and the clutch wont be fully engaging. Sorry if my wording is confusing! I hope this helps! It took me probably 3 or 4 times of taking the cover back off to get it right. Thanks for checking out the channel!!!! 😀✌
Very cool man! Super fast and smooth shifts. Dig it. Performs like a formula 1 race car shifting through a sequential double clutch gear box. Luv it.
What's the difference between friction plates 4 and 10 ?
Do I need to remove the engine oil to change the discs?
Mate did you drain the oil to open the crankcase? I wanna have a look if my basket is cracked before buying it. Thanks great video
As long as it's on its kickstand you should be good!
How many friction disc did you install?
hi model is 2019 , is it the same procedure ??
Hello.
Thank you for the video.
I have a Yamaha FZ09 or as it calls here in Brasi - MT09.
it has made a noise in the clutch system, I believe the bearing of the pressure plate.
if you have any recommendations, I am grateful.
I also wanted to increase mine with this akrapovic escape.
I also liked the cover protector.
I would like to make these improvements.
Thank you very much in advance
How many Km is on the bike? And what year is it? I havent heard of the throw out bearing going on these bikes but I'm sure anything is possible. Also if it's a loud ticking noise it could very well be the *Cam chain Tensioner* especially if it's an older mt09. They were known to have a big problem with the cam chain tensioner failing. A popular fix is a manual cam chain tensioner.
Hope this helps!
year 2015, it is 27000km.
I rule out the possibility of the harness because the noise is when I loose the clutch. when I drive the clutch the noise stops.
I also discarded the bearing of the pressure plate, I dismounted and replaced the bearing the noise keeps.
I noticed a small gap between the gear and the bell (clutch hub).
I'm suspicious of this slack that causes the vibration.
Look, mine is just like this video.
th-cam.com/video/SgmRRkS776Y/w-d-xo.html
@@diegoalmeida4239 hmmmm that is strange I'm not too sure what that is honestly. I'm sorry! I Hope it gets figured out!
Bro..no need to remove engine oil before open up clutch cover..?
I don’t think so but if you are going to replace the clutch you should replace the dirt oil and the old clutch residuals thats what am goint to do but i ned the spring bolts torque
Do you need the ignition module? Or does the quickshifter work with just the pcv alone?
For this bike it will work with the PCV alone. No ignition module needed 👌
10K and you need new clutch plates? Is there some reason for that? I'm very interested in getting one of these but not if the clutch is prone to needing this much attention.
Honestly I'm not sure. When I pulled the old plates out they actually didnt look too worn out actually. Most people who are doing this service on the bike are pulling out plates that are broken and blown apart. Honestly if you havent gotten to ride an Fz09 yet then please try to get on one. Once you get a chance to ride one then replacing the clutch will be your last concern for how much joy the bike will bring to you.
I have a 2014 with 22k miles on the stock clutch and have never had any clutch issues. But I’m also pretty smooth, leaning more towards bogging off the line rather than slipping it heavily. I wonder if guys coming off of less torquey bikes are punishing the clutch unnecessarily.
Are you using motorcycle specific oil instead of automotive oil?
I have a powercomander for my 16' fz09 what should I get to install a quick shifter on it, in the link website they sell the parts separately
Abdulrahman Kouli in regards to the quickshifter. The parts for the 16 fz09 will be the same as the ones stated in the video. Shift rods B and C along with the quickshifter itself will be needed.
Takeshi TwoWheelTrio thank u! Made a channel recently check it out th-cam.com/channels/GuKQzDp_ZqffTWaOkAB89A.html
What is the reference chain? 15:07
10K and you smoked the clutch? 😳 You ride pretty hard my man.
Amigo me puedes ayudar como se coje el tiempo y como se coloca la caja de cambios por favor.
Awesome vid man! Very informative. I'm about to do a slipper clutch install on my 2016. Trying to find vids on that. Hopefully Ryan does a vid soon. 👍
Thank you! :D and as soon as the time comes we will definitely do a video!
Hey it’s been about a year how was that install I just purchased the slipper clutch my slef
At what milage did you installed the clutch?
Ehhhh I believe it was around 12k or so. But when I pulled the old plates out they looked to still be in pretty good shape.
@@takeshitwowheeltrio7471 i have 32k... Gonna change the plates in a few weeks
@@135chico Good luck! And if you havent already definitely look into a quick shifter! So much fun! And less wear and tear on that new clutch too!
Why do you stagger the last friction?
Dave Kauffman honestly I'm not too sure that's just how yamaha designed it haha.
Bro how do u order all the stuff?
shouldve upgraded the clutch plates and springs whilst you where there
pls be carfoul with the oil on the floor and youre fronttire - could be slippery
good video
Thanks for the heads up!
10k miles and already needs a new clutch? Is this common on this bikes?
Yo, No Ride Vid? Let's see that quickshifter in action.
is That a 2016 model ?
Moto bing it's a 2014 but every one up till the 17's would have the same parts as far as I know.
Thanks this helped a lot.
Glad we could help!
nice video
Thank you!
Keep it up man
Thanks dude!
Nope that’s just to involved for me! Lol great vid though 👍🏻
Shouldn't need to change clutch plates with the low km on bike , something is not right
👏👏👏cool
10k miles the clutch should not need a change
that's because the bike was abused lol
Damn hipster
Cbr 600 I don't know many hipsters that work on their own bikes.👌
If you don’t know how why you trying to teach anyone also confusing people .