DELL U2515H 1440p Monitor NOT WORKING - Can I FIX it?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- Here we have a DELL monitor which doesn't turn on. It was purchased cheaply on eBay. It looks in good condition but can it be brought back to life? Let's find out.
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Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things. I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things, so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series. Many thanks, Vince.
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Hi Vince, a few things. To find a mosfet online, wherever you see an "N" in its number, there will generally be two numbers preceding it and two numbers following it (sometimes there will be other letters like M or L as well). In this case, it is 15N15. These two numbers generally are supposed to represent Drain source voltage, and drain current, and the letter N represents N-channel. Some manufacturers can make it confusing though, but you can use this as a guideline. There are other naming conventions as well for mosfets, like 2SK, IRF, etc.
The mosfet that you chose - IRF510 - will work, but not sure for how long. It is drastically underrated, the IRF510 is 5A drain current vs the original 15N15 is 50A. The voltage is underrated as well, and the capacitances are wildly different (in a switching power supply, capacitances of switching FETs are important) - Ciss (input capacitance) of the IRF510 is 180pF vs 3560pF of the 15N15, gate charge is 8nC vs 63nC, etc. This can affect duty cycle and "dead time" in switching transitions, rise times, ringing, and even create unwanted resonances in the circuit. When you start using more than one switching FET, such as in a push-pull circuit or a half bridge, these capacitances become even more critical.
In your little box of FETs there, the IRF640 would be a better choice, as many of its specs are closer to the original, though capacitance are still somewhat off and it is only 15A rated.
Also, transistors in this style are a TO-220 package. If you are looking for a transistor with an insulated tab instead of the metal one, this would be TO-220F or TO-220FP.
Brilliant info Dacke, really useful to me and everyone else reading it. Thanks for taking the time to post it 👍👍👍👍
The 15N15 has 15A current, not 50A, so his alternative isn't that much underrated, especially considering that the monitor surely won't take more than 100W of continuous DC power for the panel and control board. Of course it's better to get the right spec'd one eventually for long-term reliability. The capacitance also shouldn't matter much, since the switching frequencies are low (surely below 1MHz) and the switching circuit is self-regulating.
It's interesting though why his first 2 choices didn't work - I guess because the voltage rating was too low. That would imply a really high voltage on the "primary" side (around 100V?) and a very short duty cycle of the MOSFET.
@@RealNovgorod The datasheet actually says 50A, I thought it was 15A as well - Link removed, part number is MTE015N15RFP (cant post links in replies I guess)
Regardless, 50A on a switcher is somewhat overkill for what looks like a flyback design, I agree with you. It could be a typo or maybe that part was just all they could easily get from their suppliers.
Parasitic capacitances are always important in SMPS designs, and switching frequencies are almost always low (usually 500-700kHz or less). If they are off somewhat in a lower power design like this, it *shouldn't* matter, but they were off about as much as they could be. This will affect the drive signal, the duty cycle, time spent in the linear region, and heat and power loss. The feedback network can compensate for this, but only so much. Sure it will work, but I don't know for how long. And as I stated, if there is more than one switcher, such as a push-pull or chopper design, Coss can affect how long the fet stays turned on/off. If one fet has not turned off before the other has turned on, you have a direct short and catastrophic failure (both fets are on). This is actually a common mistake people have made when subbing fet replacements and cant figure out why it keeps failing in less than a few minutes after power up. All the specs match, but they neglected to check the capacitance and rise/fall time values. The only reason I mention capacitance in this instance is because it is off between those two fets by 20(!) orders of magnitude, and that's quite significant.
@@Sloxx701 That's all true, but in this case it's just a single MOSFET, so at most it will reduce efficiency a bit and maybe add some more ripple. Regarding the 15N15 specs, I just looked at the first datasheet that showed up in the search (part number is exactly 15N15 from ISC) and it's rated for 150V, 15A continuous. But it's also a TO-3 package, not TO-220, and probably the manufacturers aren't too consistent with their part numbers anyway.
@@RealNovgorod Strange I didn't see that datasheet, but I ended up at a cystech MTE015N15RFP and its a 50A TO-220FP part. But yes with 15N15 it should be 15A, which I think is fine. I think he will be fine with the IRF640 for now, however I would eventually replace it with a closer match or an upgraded part if he plans to sell the monitor to someone.
The first two choices he tried I didn't look at very closely, but now I'm curious so I'll watch it again. (I skimmed through some parts)
Superb fault finding on this one, Vince. I hope it carries on working for many more months to come! I wonder whether you could get a nylon screw to secure the mosfet? Not sure if that would work, but the cable tie option is usually a good one! 👍
Good idea with the nylon screw. Hopefully I will be able to buy the correct MOSFET when this goes live. Cheers Steve 👍
While a nylon screw could mechanically work, as the mosfet heats up, it can become brittle and give in. The proper solution here is to get an insulated mosfet and screw in the metal screw IMHO....
@@ErrorMessageNotFound Ehh...true, true :))) I didn't think that one really through :D Thanks!!
@@Mymatevince Look for "to-220 insulator kit", that would solve the problem with metal mosfets. Oh, and that heatsink isn't painted, it's anodized aluminum. Great work anyways, keeping it safe. Happy holidays!
Vince is so honest. I think it’s VERY important to recognize when we don’t know how to fix things BUT, what he does is even more important cause he tries again and again even if it’s just for learning. Congratulations for videos like these ones when we all end up learning something
Looks like the original MOSFET is a Cystech MTE015N15RFP. If you look at the last page of the datasheet, the markings are the same and the last line 6M03 would be the date code (6 = 2016, M = December, maybe, this seems a little too close to the Jan 2017 date on the monitor though!). Doesn't seem available to buy in small quantities but maybe that will help in finding a suitable alternative if you ever need one!? Great fix anyway!
Thank you ekens63, nice one👍
The UltraSharp monitors are some of Dell's good ones! I have the 27" U2715H and it is awesome! The little stick-on covers on the lower edge are intended to cover the clip points for the Dell SoundBar.
This video saved me $200 and kept one more monitor from becoming e-waste. My monitor had a different problem (blown fuse) but the diagnostic procedures in this video taught me what to check. Thank you.
Excellent =D What else can I say lol!
Nice one Gadget 👍👍👍
Nice fix Vince!
By the way; I have used similar models at my office for many years, and my primary monitor (Dell 24") is now 10+ years old. If you want audio on the screen you can check for original soundbars for your particular model, as several of Dell's models support this. A quick search indicates that a soundbar with the designation AC511 should be correct for your monitor. The blanking panels that you removed from the bottom is there to hide the mounting brackets for the soundbar.
I have that soundbar for my dell u2515h und it is good enough for everything. did not use it much lately, because of my new headphones i can wear all day long, but still works and sounds good to me. (of course it is not a 100€ speakerset, but it does the job)
You channel cost me money, whenever i watch one of your videos i end up buying a project. Recently fixed 7 elgato capture cards and a few ps5 controllers!
🤣🤣🤣👍
This has got to be one of my favorites! A lesson for being methodical and just trying stuff.
Nice one Wesley, thank you 👍
"easy fix" but they didn't fix it.....
Really enjoyed this one Vince. I Had an Ultrasharp years ago which I used for photo editing as it was colour calibrated. Best monitor I ever had. It broke in a similar fashion to this and I've never found one quite as good for colour accuracy.... Wish I'd tried to fix it now, lol.
Got a 24in 1080p samsung curved its okay not higher but colour accuracy is really good but calibrated with colour munki to gpu
Vince you can get T0-220 insulating kits for those transistors. They are cheap and adding a little thermal paste to the mica on both sides transfers the heat without conducting.
Silicone ones available too.
Great to see someone willing to put the work in and fix something. What a great example of the ridiculous state we are in that things we buy if they break down are just throw away and replaced. A friend of mine works at a Dyson returns place in Gloucester and he tells me virtually all of Dyson returns are scrapped - very little is re-used, and some of the returns are from stockists so have never even been unboxed but because they have not sold are outdated. Hundreds of thousands retail price of goods scrapped. It is really disgusting.
They do that, so that they dont lower the price of the newer dysons. Even if they allowed the older unused items to be sold cheaply , it would then reflect on the price of the items they are trying to sell. Same as why burberry and all other high cost item manufacturers do when they get old stock, its better if they destroy it.
I confess to cheating on a similar problem once, with a TV. I noticed that the 12v (on that model) was missing, so I just bought an off the shelf 12v PSU unit and built it in instead! Well done, Vince.
this is something i was gonna suggest, a 19v laptop power brick probably would have done the job and you wouldnt have the problem of trying to secure and fit it within, just fit a compatible dc barrel jack socket somewhere and have the psu external instead
@@oldskoolhead0 I have a few of these with known power supply issues and if any of mine fail this is exactly what ill be doing, I have a bunch of 19v laptop power supplies laying around that will work.
Oh, we have thousands of these monitors at my job. I work in our IT department as our Mac Administrator. Usually we toss them because people crack the LCD panel, I don’t recall us ever having one with a failed power supply.
Still have three of those Ultrasharp U2515Hs in a triple monitor setup today. Been using them since 2015 and they're still going strong.
Great to know about that MOSFET as a potential weakness, hope I never need to replace the ones in mine, but if they were to fail, at least I'd have some place to start with repairing them :)
Hi, Vince... Great Fault Find... But, why didnt you just replace the internal power supply with an external one?
Create a 2-pair Wire (RED-Black) to connect to the motherboard Power-In, and put a DC Socket where normally the main AC is, buy an external 20V 2A (is more then enough, or buy a 3-5A, doesnt matter because it will use only the AMPs needed) and there it is...
And if you want to be extra sure, put a 3A fuse beetween the DC Socket and the motherboard.
So, if the power supply will go bad, you just need to replace the external one..
"It's a monitor, you don't need more than 1440p"...
Quiet Vince, the missus is going to hear you and realise I lied about "needing" a 4k monitor 😂
Hahaha, your secret is safe with me Phil 🤣🤣🤣
@@Mymatevince haha cheers mate, now I get to buy myself a second one because one isn't enough 😂 you know my missus is actually pretty good like that, she doesn't moan when I waste money as long as it's for work
4:50 I don't think those clips were meant to disassemble it, but it's meant for a optional speaker bar you can mount underneath the monitor.
Really Nice video Vince
Your videos inspires me to keep going on my small channel.
I can still remember when you didn't even know what a power rail was but you never gave up .
Great deduction on the mosfet value. switch mode power supplies are a pain to work on!
keep up the great work .👍
Just found your channel. Excellent Content - Looking forward to more Power Supply and Monitor repair videos!
Well done. I compared the datasheets of the two mosfets that didn't work for you (IRFZ44N and IRF3205), the one that did work (IRF510N) against that of the original Cystek MTE015N15RFP hoping to see an important difference that would explain why one replacement worked and other two did not. Unfortunately, I could not find the reason. All four mosfets have the same Vgs(th) gate threshold voltage of 2 to 4 volts. They have similar capacitances and switching times. The only notable difference was that your replacement that worked (IRF510N) has notably higher Rds(on): max 0.54 Ohms versus 20 milliOhms in the original part. That is actually a disadvantage and might explain why you get 19 rather than 20 volts out (although the output voltage ouught to be regulated by the optoisolator feedback loop). So, on the basis of the datasheets, I think all your three replacements should have worked!
Could the ones that didn't work just be poor quality?
@@tonyweavers4292 Nope, just the wrong type.
Its more likely that the back emf from the inductor blew them up and the higher voltage one survived.
@@BogdanTheGeek This is why mosfets do actually have an internal diode across the source and drain terminals.
@@tyronenelson9124the diode is actually a sideproduct of the manufacturing processes. It might not be able to handle the current. In any case, we don't know the input voltage to the buck converter, so all we can do is guess.
You can use a plastic screw insert and clear fiber insulator to secure the mosfet to heat sink. This is commonly used in many ground sensitivity components 😊
Nice job Vince. As StezStix Fix says that is a 15N15. I think the case style is called a TO220-3-313. What you need with what you have there is a smaller diameter bolt, a mica or other isolation pad and a little plastic washer that has a flange that goes inside the hole to keep the screw from touching the metal. I think it is called a TO220 mounting kit. What you need (I think) is a IPA105N15N3 G which is a 150V 37 amp Mosfet about $5 american from DIgikey. I think what you put in is 9.7A at 100V. I don't know how long that will last, not because of the current draw but the voltage.
Keep up the good work. (I did subscribe).
Quick idea since I am at 40:00 ... Why not, if all else fails, use a notebook power supply? 19V should be fine, and 3 Amps. i.e. a 90W notebook PSU. Quick and dirty solution but likely to work...
A screen is not just a screen if you understand.
you have the cheapest with TN. display panel that is bad in many areas. so IPS. Which is very good. then you have 120hz monitors.
you should have IPS. and 120hz or higher and not TN. Screen panel
*** - I am only 45 min in... 2nd mosfet didn't work... question tho.. was there a pinout diagram for the ones you bought? you didn't show it... when you tested GND with multimeter.. the pin on the right was GND... you might have to switch 2 of the pins.. leave em up and solder resistor leg cutoffs to em.. to make it thru the hole... i think the middle and the right pin need to be reversed? (remember i am guessing without even finishing the video..)
I'm not an electrician but 90% of the problems are always on Power mainboard. All this Made in China sockets!
It is also good to exchange all this cheap electrolytic capacitors! Other problems are avoided.
Dell. U25115H. N1440P. Monitor not. Working can. l. Fix. It ? No. Power
*** - I was wrong... I didn't see the pinout diagram tho.. I give you props... when you were cleaning at the end was that IPA you used to clean the screen ?????
Congrats on your fix ! This is decent mid-range 2K 60Hz monitor from 2017-2018. Not a bad score. Looks like the panel is made by LG. Their panels seem to last forever, I have a couple monitors from 2000s still working perfectly to this day.
That single-rail 20V PSU is a bit strange, monitor mainboards do need more than one voltage rail and there's no voltage conversion circuitry on the PSU itself. Most likely the mainboard was designed so that it could run on external 19V PSU as well as internal one. In case if you ever need to replace/fix the PSU again, It should't be too hard to convert this monitor to run on external power.
Right on the money. An old laptop power brick could be whacked in for sure.
Hi Vince there is a guy called Sorin who works in a repair shop in London. He runs a TH-cam channel called electronic repair school. He has numerous videos that take you through diagnosing SMPS boards. I'm about the same level as yourself on electronic fault finding and Sorin's videos have been a massive help in teaching me to understand how a SMPS works and how to fault find. He also uses very basic tools and a multimeter. Seriously well worth watching. Keep up the good work Vince I really look forward to your videos.. Cheers Baz
Sorin is fantastic.
He's very entertaining!
Diodegonewild specializes in power supplies.
Learn Electronics Repair as excellent channel as well.
Diodegonewild is the master of power supply
Sorin from electronic repair school il also good and funny
If you connect that monitor to a Windows PC check out the Dell Monitor software. Quite useful and most monitors support DCC/CI so you can control them with software as well as the front panel buttons on the monitor 🙂
Absolutely brilliant fix. I'm learning from you, keep these kinds of fixes up! :)
Hi Vince. Old history now I guess, but a more permanent solution for the conductive tab transistor is to use a mica washer which come in all shapes and sizes to suit - beware they are VERY delicate! + & nylon bolt (or through hole insulator if using the original bolt) with lots of lovely thermal paste
If you have stayed up to the end without skipping the Vijo... like 👍 this comment 😍
If there's an apocalypse you'll be my new best friend.. 🙂
power supplies are no joke. I once was measuring a laptop power supply with a multimeter, and I accidentally put the multimeter to two contacts and shorted them. there was then a huge bang and a flash. fortunately I was not shocked and the fuse saved me from a fire. from then on I will never touch a power supply, even with almost 7 years experience in various electronics.
Hi Vince, When looking for a replacement MOSFET you can normally go Higher in Voltage rating and higher in current rating. Similar to choosing a replacement capacitor Higher voltage and higher value of Farad.This works MOST of the time, but obviously if you have the specification of the original one go with that. Being slightly over rated should not cause any issues. It was nice to see you using a proper de-soldering tool instead of one of those hand de-soldering pumps, they are so much cleaner and better to use, good job !!
This applies for most electrical things, doesn't it? Overspeccing (higher voltage/amperage than device calls for) is fine but NEVER EVER underspeccing?
If anything, going slightly above spec means longer life since you're using it at a lower overall load rating. Same is true when selecting PSU's for computers. Always go above the recommended.
My total machine power is ~300w under load and I have an 850w PSU. Been working smooth for almost a decade now. (Knock on wood)
@@acumenium8157 Generally yes, unless its a fuse of course !! You can have issues going too high or low a value with capacitors and obviously resistors. So there are limits.
@@TurboBass Yeah. My laptop literally can't draw more than 150W no matter what I do. OEM PSU literally fried after about ~2.5 years, so I had to get an aftermarket replacement. Got a 180W one as the wattage doesn't matter as long as it's the same or higher, same with the input voltage/amperage, just NEVER go lower.
@@KB1UIF Make senses. Whole parts like a PSU or voltage regulator may be able to handle differences (since they have to, as no appliance will draw the same value always), but capacitors/resistors know exactly what they're supposed to be doing and not much else.
This was a nice one.
Well done 👏.
You are inspiring me to go and start whit simple thing to repair.
Like controllers and stuff.
I always sucked in electronics,so i watch as much as i can on channels like yours.
Thank you
Hi Vince, I loved watching this fix and learnt alot 🎉 love from india 🇮🇳
I have a plastic screw assortment, it’s perfect for when you need to insulate a transistor from the mounting surface.
Cheers Scott 👍
Dell makes shit computers but absolutely fantastic monitors. I find them in my local Thrift stores all the time and are almost always fixed up with capacitor replacements, new ribbon cables, reflowing some solder, almost always something really easy to fix and if not, they use almost the same power circuit all the time so I have tons of spare parts. Its really easy to get replacement controller boards too. And since a whole lot of companies use them in the US they're always getting sold off super cheap.
Nice work. For your information, you can connect these monitors in chain via DP in and out, you can have up to three monitors, even with different resolution! :-)
As you probley know by now...I think you have to short a wire from "PS" to another wire to turn all the voltages in that connector on. I dont remember which wire you have to short it to. That device you removed is a mosfet
We’ve got these at work. Smaller dell version but with the internal power supply and same controls/lights. If the mains lead works it’s way loose slightly from moving it about it will arc badly. Need to power down at the plug socket to reseat it again otherwise you get arcing noises and sparks when trying to push it back in. Not sure if that could blow a component. Feel that’s a bit of a design fault. The fit could be better. Only takes a few people to move it on the desk a bit and it’s come out. I much prefer external PSU as a result which seems to stay in well and it’s low voltage at the monitor end. Great fix. Lovely monitor. Impressive way of testing the mosfet and fixing it. Looks to be stable.
Thanks Paul, I have the same issue with the cable on the PS4 Pro, so loose and has been from when it was new. It doesn't spark but it doesn't inspire confidence either 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince arcing is not good for sensitive electronics. Might be worth seeing if you can use a different cable if a different one fits more smugly. Another risk will be accidentally powering down in the middle of use which is not good for ssd or hard drive. If you never move it however it’s probably not such an issue.
Mosfet's are like my number one check on a power supply if caps aren't buldging. Great video vince!
FYI: Voltage on the main cap, when PSU is working, should be around 400V DC (350-420V)
Isn't that only with active PFC?
@@semiRockethr No, also with 230VAC INput.
@@Stefan_Payne Well on 230V RMS 325 V is peak after bridge rectifier and smoothing capacitor. To get higher voltage then that some other circuit is needed like active PFC.
"random" mosfets, zip ties :D electroboom would be proud! Youre just missing the arcs and sparks.
Hey Vince. Sell me that monitor! I need 1
I love how you sometimes falls ass backwards into beeing a genious, and don't pretend anything else. Superb channel.
🤣👍Thanks Helge
Watching this on my brand spanking new Dell S3422DWG. Coincidence?
Very fancy Nandi 👍
You've got a premium product 😅
One of my favorite Vince videos, just rewatched it (for the umptillionth time) on my new Dell AW3423DWF.
Smashed it Vince well done!
Thanks so much 👍👍👍
Watching this on a Dell u2410 with faulty power (randomly turns off/on about once or twice a day) thx for the vid!
Vince could you not cut the traces underneath to the heat sink so its not grounded? When you had it showing underneath it looked like you could? or unsolder the heat sink & screw it to the mosfet then its not grounded.
Very nice idea Mike 👍👍👍👍👍
What an amazing fix and video Vince. Again another device which dies of one little cheap component. We really need the right to repair to save devices like this.
"easy fix" why didn't they fix it then?
PS ON will usually have a stand by low voltage on it, 3.3v, 5v, with little current behind it. When that gets pulled to ground, the power supply turns on; that's usually how those work. Those cable ties are probably nylon and that N channel FET will sooner blow up than melt that cable tie lol
Not many better feelings in the world than you fix something in this way yourself! Good work
Greetings. The absolutely best feeling. It is quite exhilarating to restore life to something that was dead. The joy is indescribable.
i have the same sdesolder station
Nice work Vince - I am watching you on dual Dell U2412M monitors with the same stand features - these are great/fantastic monitors for folks who don't need 4K!
MOST people probably : short cap with screwdriver
BIG CLIVE: touch it with bare fingers
This guy: use resistor leads
If it were me, I would remove the PSU and simply add a port for a standard barrel connector and use an external PSU. Saves time and if the PSU dies again, I just grab a new one and plug it in. But great video!
Get yourself some mica washers and nylon screws for those transistors with metal tabs.
Amazing work Vincent. I had a request for your next videos. Could you recap the steps you have done to find the issue before the video ends? It will be helpfull for people like me to understand better what have you done. Thanks
Hi. I did the exact procedure with my not working Dell screen. (Did not succeed though!) But when looking at the old MOSFET, same as yours I assume without the metal heat plate I could see the small text on it It is a PK7NK80ZFP (GKO1Y V33 CHN 542) Good luck for those others trying.😊
FINALLY USING A DESOLDERING GUN!! Hopefully it saves you as much time as it saves me!!
Highly impressed with this sir. Your presentation is excellent as is your narrative. Very glad that I came across your channel. I will be back for more!
Nice capacitor discharge cable! A double fuse protection. Interesting! I have a Dell 24" 1200p monitor similar to yours, has a problem where it won't turn on, no power light .. haven't opened it up yet, am watching your videos! Thank you 🤓 300 + VDC? I will take the same precautions!
Some years ago I found some (back then) pretty good, two year old monitors on the side of the road. I asked the previous owner if I could have them and what's wrong with them. He told me they didn't turn on so he got new ones. It turned out that on both of them some or all caps were bad. The screen flashed and then the backlight was gone. I replaced every single capacitor in both monitors and they were working fine for another four to five years until one of them got lines on the screen and the other one didn't turn on at all shortly after that. I got a brand new monitor then but I had pretty good almost free monitors for years.
switching power supply using in output fast switching diode like FQPF4N60 Fast Switching diode 4N60 600V TO-220F or SOT-252 gate and sours shorted together and drain is output dc volt
I got a Lenovo 22' monitor off freecycle and the insides were almost the same. The back of my finger touched the 400v cap (ZING) and measuring it AFTER it still read 220v
Also I got different error codes on the led when the AV board was hooked up to the power supply.
I have very similar project to keep me busy. Another department at work was throwing away a Dell U2713HB monitor. I just didn't believe it until I tried it out -
Well, the Dell monitor is strange as it powers on fine and displays the "select source" screensaver but no matter what source I try - VGA/DP/DVI/HDMI - it just doesn't want to connect. I've tried all possible cables and devices as source.
I suspect this is a fault with the image driver board rather than power supply. I just need to find it! 🤞 One advantage the image board should be running low voltage?
Any pointers are greatly appreciated.
I want to make a basic flight simulator rig to teach Scouts flight theory and as a primer before having a real flight in light aircraft. I was inspired by "the warthog project" - just something a bit more civilian/peaceful. Only I need to find this stuff as cheap or free🤷♂️
Maaaaan, I have had some bad luck lately. Got a Razer 14 inch laptop, won't power on, just gives me a slowly breathing green light. I suspect it's maybe a bad BIOS, but otherwise I just don't know. Might be a dead CPU. -_-
Next up I got an Xbox One X for cheap, powers on for a second then BAM turns off. Not the PSU. Can't seem to get the HDMI Retimer off, board is super good at soaking heat and my hot air can't get it hot enough fast enough. As well, I'm thinking it might be a dead APU. Been chasing that one for a few days but not luck. I do have a replacement HDMI Retimer but I am a bit discouraged after it wouldn't come off. Gotta heat the board overall, maybe add some heat beneath? I dunno.
NEXT next up is a 55inch 4k TCL television. Backlights died on one side one day then a few days later the other side died. Brother in laws, he got a new TV and gave me it. I bought some lights, finally delivered today, so I'm gonna try it out but the lights have a cap at the V IN on the LED strips and all of them seem fine and measure the same on the new ones so... not super confident. TV still turns on, though, which is good. Prior to dying when just half went dark, the whole LCD still displayed. I really hope it works, I need a win to keep me going!
Watching this, though, really excites me and makes me wanna get more broken stuff to fix.
Cool. You did find it! Really cool, this monitor is from the same series mine is from. I still own a UP2715K (5K). On mine the stand is metal as well. Really nice monitors! Great picture. I think you did really well!
Now see if you can get a speaker bar for it off ebay, I believe it uses Dell model AE515M, it's what the two holes were for on the bottom beneath the covers.
I find it hardly believable that a person owning a desoldering gun, knowing what a MOSFET is would struggle how to insulate a TO220 on a heatsink. Mica or silicon insulator "leaves", paired with plastic washers. Vince, you're playing dumb, although I don't get it why.
My ex GF had lent me an old Alienware monitor that quit when I was using it. Surely nothing I did caused it to quit, it was fairly old, but I felt bad none the less. Same thing, just dead, no power light, nothing. I did take it apart and check for any fuses, but didn't see any obvious ones, but I didn't check anything on the power supply. You just gave me some really good things to ck, thanks so much!! Great video!!
that reminds me that I have an awesome SAMSUNG S27D850T with a dead Power Supply and need a replacement PSU somehow...
And Samsung won't send it from US to EU :(
I repaired some DELL screens myself. It seems it's ofen the same part that fails within a device model. Either a electrolytic cap, a big (fast) rectifier diode shots or both mos fets are gone short. the fixing itself often is easy, while the disassembling of the houseing really can be a PAIN IN THE BACK !! on some screen models you really feel that it never was build to be serviced ever. and that is a shame and a massive environment problem. so many of those 200-300eur devices end up in a recycler or landfill because of 2.50eur of parts + 2h of labor.
Switching power supply’s go all over the place until there is a load on it. 15N15 is a 15 Amp @ 150Volt Drain Source Voltage N Channel MOSFET.
I found some information for you sir. The N15R is an n channel 150 volt 45 amp. But it's been known that you can substitute a TO-220 46 N15. I would have sent you pictures but there's no way to do that on TH-cam. I'm a little worried about you using the 110 not allowing enough.
There are no switching mosfets on the cold, output side of smps. The only thing you can have is dual output diode, usually with common cathode as a middle pin. Try with MUR16xxCT, 16A 200v. On the output of the secondary you have 20v AC which is first picked up by one anode and when it changes polarity the other anode and you get 20V dc constantly through a common cathode and to the output.
Mosfets can pick up output voltage from the secondary like in your case but they are supposed to switch primary coil on the hot side. I think there are two of them in your power supply.
Dell, a premium product? Oh how I laughed....
You still got a thumbs up, but that is so far from the truth it's hilarious. Try comparing a Dell of any model to a Boxx workstation; you won't call anything made by Dell a premium product ever again.
Hey vince the bottom covers you popped out are actually for the sound bar! Nice fault finding BTW it´s allways nice to see your videos!
The MOSFET supplies AC to the transformer. On power drain any reduction in voltage is sensed and info is fed back to the MOSFET which increases its output until the required voltage is reached again. I suppose u knew this. Its real workhorse.
Might try my hand at repairing a 24" DELL LCD monitor. Would only up my Montgomery Scott Miracle Worker's at work.
Hello Vince! Great vid! Question: can i delete this monitor's power supply and use a 12v-to-20v booster to power it up? I have three of these and a motorhome, and it's a lot better than the motorhome's TV but i don't want to run an inverter for it. What do you think? Thanks!!
I Need this monitor Power Supply circuit diagram . Or send send clear photo of soldering side. I want to know the value of resistor R9818. Please send if anyone have.
I hate it when there's a screw missing... like, you'd think people at home would have enough brain cells to even fetch a coffee cup (if nothing else) and place the screws in there. Another thing is screws in wrong places... GRRR - Every phone has a gawddarn camera in it nowadays - use it!
Anyway, love your repair videos!
Did you try that 2 failing mosfets in your component tester. Maybe there are fake chinese devices in that box. Your mosfet choice is good- no need to change. Use screw insulation cilinders and rings. The wire straps will get brittle.
Price of mosfets goes up with current and voltage rating. So the highest values are more likely to be fake.
I didn't Kris, I should have though as they may have failed. Next time I have the box out I will see if I can find them again, I'm sure I didn't throw them out and I should still see bits of solder on them 👍👍
You've done so many notebook repairs of which some were not successful. You can always try a notebook power supply if this thing fails on you. They are 19V at 2A or more.
In some ways it looks similar to the monitors that a college i went to in 2018-2019 had connected up to the computers in the library (athough on those monitors they had thin clients mounted to the back of the monitor, for those that dont know what a thin client is, it is essentially a PC that relies on a server to do anything (unlike standard computers, without the server, a thin client will essentially stop working as soon as it loses connection to the server)
how the thin clients at that college worked, was when you entered your username and password, you would be connected to a Windows VM (Virtual Machine) which was running on a server, in another part of the building)
Very awesome episode. My 24' dell monitor power died so I queried if I can just add a 20v from a different PSU and tape it on and the guys said there is probably some complex power system with 5V going to other rails and it needs a custom PSU.
Brilliant repair Vince.
So glad you were able to fix it even after eBay seller had it apart already.
Amazing! Absolute zero theoretical knowledge! I always wonder how such people start from putting their hands everywhere instead of simply reading a book on electronics theory.
Nylon screw assortment will come handy for things like that.
TH-cam big tan
In my case the power board seems fine, I get all the 20V as you show in the video. How would you recommend approaching the fix of the other board (the 'non power one')?
You did a good job. "I also have the same model LED that does not light up." It helped me find the fault. thank you