Awesome Creality Upgrade - For Faster Printing!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2023
- The Creality Spider Hot End is a GREAT little upgrade for your Creality or possibly "Ender Clone" printer! This will allow you to more easily and for a low-cost print higher-end materials such as ABS and Polycarbonate! From what I have seen thus far this unit is nicer in both form and function to other options. I like it better than the Microswiss I had - maybe I'll post an update in the future once I have a few hundred hours on this one.
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Creality got me into 3D printing, and printed my Voron…so all that being said, there’s no hate in my heart for them. Great video!
So the hotend you're showing on the machine is the Creality Spider 4.0 but you're showing the specs for the Spider 3.0 which is a very different hotend. Just an FYI.
You are correct! Different HE from the waist down. First one to call that out - Very odd too because someone *sigh* provided the links and codes. 🤔
@@BuildItBasement well, I have the 3.0 installed on my Ender 3 V2 and I just picked up the 4.0. When I saw the website I thought, "Hey, that's not right!"
How are you liking the 4.0 since you installed it 2 months ago?
@@adamovermiller863 Honestly, it's probably overkill. I like the design and for anyone looking for a quick upgrade it's a no-brainer, but it can probably push more plastic than I can provide speed for on the Ender. Well worth the price. I don't print a ton with the Ender, but I did do four or five test prints and some minor tests (flow and temp towers). I should do a comparison between it and the Revo.
@@BuildItBasement that's good to hear. I'm looking for overkill. I have the sonic pad and with the upgrades on my V2 I'm pushing 180mm/s or faster. The Spider 3.0 has trouble keeping up at that speed with anything bigger than a 0.4mm nozzle.
@@adamovermiller863 I rarely use a .6 or larger. I can't tell you what it'll do with a larger nozzle, but 200mm/s with a .4 should be easy. PLA or ABS.
I was really thinking about getting one of these for my Ender 3, but then I watched a review and someone said it's only for fast, low quality printing and that you can't print high quality with it, especially not fast. I really just want to be able to print CF Nylon, but would also like to print faster (100-150mm/s) without losing print quality. It's been a real pain in the ass trying to figure out which upgrades to get and in what combination. That all have pros and cons, and prerequisites and incompatibilities and/or require multiple other parts and upgrades and/or need parts to be printed before installing and all that... (and I only have one printer, so I can't print parts once I have the machine apart to do the upgrade). I bought a sprite extruder on accident that was supposed to be the whole unit, so I was thinking about just finding a compatible hot end, but I have no slue what is or isn't compatible with it and people said that the Spider Pro wasn't compatible (when I thought it would be). Thinking about a V6, but I'm not sure if that's compatible either and/or if I need a direct extrude V6 or is a Bowden Tube V6 will still work too. Thought about the Micro Swiss, but it's expensive and the assemblies look like they might be very heavy. The Voron models look great, but they're very expensive and I have no clue about compatibility with the Ender 3. The parts are expensive to replace on them too. Anyways, without going on forever and ever... I'm really stuck and I don't know that to do. I have an Ender 3 that I would really like to upgrade for CF nylon and a fair amount of speed... but I feel like I'm just going in circles trying to figure out what to do or what to get.
Quite the comment there. So let me see if I can help you some, from my point of view. The Ender 3 is a great printer for the money, however, it is really starting to show it's age as a basic and only slightly upgraded bed slinger. Printing "more complex" plastics ABS, ASA, NYLON, PC... you name it, require a few key things to do it any level of ease or decent output. Printing Nylon or PC on an Ender 3 is NOT as easy as other materials. Both of these materials require a HOT hotend, a decently HOT bed and a chamber/ambient air temp around 60+ degrees. It could be argued that you can get prints done by making some hackish changes (heck I did this in a video where I printer PC on my Ender 5). Building a printer is a hobby all on to it's own. It''s not easy, it's not hard, it takes time and effort. (X10 if you're video recording it!) In the end, for the money, IF you want to print more "engineering" grade materials I would get a printer that has an enclosed area and comes with a good direct drive or reverse bowden, a hotend that can reach ~300 degrees, and a bed that can reach 100+ degrees. The K1 could be a nice option amzn.to/3JcSo9n . The QIDI printers are also great, possibly a little better cost/features vs. the Creality. amzn.to/3vNrx0A. Both of these will cost you less than half of what a Voron kit will cost. I love all my Voron printers - but they are a hobby in themselves. They work VERY well and are unlimitedly repairable and have unlimited modifications for feature enhancement, that come s at a cost of time and effort. Keep in mind: Speed and quality are opposing forces!
@@BuildItBasement Yeah, sorry. Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the info.
@@BuildItBasement Sorry, I didn't mean a Voron machine, but a Voron hotend. I know the Ender 3 sucks, but it was all I could afford at the time. Thinking about getting a good hotend for it that I can afford... but hopefully something good, so I can use it on my next printer when I get a new one in the next 6 months or so.
Was thinking about maybe setting the ender 3 up for higher temperatures, but then buying a 2nd, better printer for use with most other things (so I can print things like PLA faster). Not sure if that's what I'll do though, because I would prefer to just have one machine that can do both eventually. That's why I've been looking for a hotend that that can print CF Nylon, but hopefully can print at 100-150mm/s without losing quality. (Although I'm not sure if it would print CF Nylon at that speed. Still have a lot to learn).
Speed isn't what it's all cracked up to be, and the motion system of the printer has more to do with quality in a lot of cases. The inherent issues with hotends in terms of quality is oozing. The problem is if you're using a high-flow HE - you tend to get oozing unless you keep that nozzle moving along! To keep moving at decent speed you need a good motion system and MCU that can process the calls to send it to the steppers. If you enjoy my videos and you want to learn more I would suggest the following: TheFirstLayer (Older videos but SOLID info), CNC Kitchen (Look at videos from about a year or two ago), Made With Layers (Again look at some of the 1-2 year old videos), Teaching Tech... and so many others. Don't get caught up in "live streams". I'm always here (as able) to help out. If you send me an email I will send you an open invite to my small discord. I keep it small so that I don't have a crowd of off-topic or random conversations. It's grown some, but my goal is to have an actual helpful Discord! Thanks again for commenting!!!
@@BuildItBasement Thanks. Much appreciated.
Been looking.
If you want a higher temp.
Amazon has high temp thermistors for the Spider. Marlin has not given a number for Marlin yet.
Creality only has a high temp bin file. Have no idea how that would work.
And marlin during compile with 1 fails and tells you you can't use 1 for a thermistor it is inaccurate at that temp.
I tried 300 C for the hot end.
So till something happens on this like you. Stay with what you got for now.
Till things change.
Tom - I'm a huge supporter of Kilipper for exactly these reasons. May swap out was as easy as, install, confirm, and adjust my Klipper file. Same goes for increasing yoru printer speeds. I would say in order of importance this comes in about third. (1) Upgrade to a Klipper firmware. (2) Go direct drive. (3) Install a good, easy Hotend - such as the Spider.