I never thin Stynlrez and have absolutely no issues with it. That said , I build mostly armor kits where the paint doesn`t have to be perfect in the least. It`s a great product and my go-to primer.
Great video, very detailed, straight to the point, and informative. Am trying this primer for the first time and although they say you can spray it straight from the bottle, I was hesitant. But now I know I can thin it and that in turn just doubled the amount I have. Thanks for the video, subscribed!
You didn't double the amount, you have the same amount at half the strength. Thinning it has many advantages but the amount of coverage you get is determined by the amount of pigment in the primer and that doesn't change by thinning.
@@zm0rc Yes, it's designed to spray straight from bottle and loses some of its good properties when thinned. If it isn't spraying then it could be a gun/compressor issue or defective/damaged bottle (never let it exist in subzero temps).
G'day PSM, Thank you so much for this video. Many, many people have advised me not to thin Stynylrez and because I have a handheld, cordless airbrush I can't vary the pressure. This was a disaster when I first used Stynylrez. I have since used your 'magic' recipe for this product and I can't tell you how much bother you've saved me. My priming even with that cheap little airbrush was faultless. Now that I have a 'proper' airbrush set up, I've continued to use your recipe for Stynylrez. Your technique was also vital to the success of my priming jobs. I used to dislike messing around with primers that I tried Tamiya spray cans of it but the results were always over the top. I'll be subscribing so I can learn how you get a 'showroom shine' on bikes and car models. I always used to do aircraft and armour that needed weathering. Now, I want to have a go at maybe urethane clear coating. I've read that's how one gets that brand new car look. Anyway, I look forward to seeing more of your videos. Cheers, mate. BH Hobart, Tasmania
For others trying to do this on the cheap ... my mom uses those creamer cups(she gets a box of like 100 at costco, same kind you get with to go coffee) .. once emptied and rinsed/washed out, those make perfect mixing cups for small amounts, and the finish on the plastic used helps the pain slide right out so there's little waste. It's that, or go to the dollar store and buy a pack of shot glasses.
Thanks for your video. I spray(use 0.5 badger airbrush) this primer directly from the bottle, however always stuck. I know the thin ratio now thanks so much.
this is one of those depends questions.....small areas like seats or something you can do same day. If you are doing a body or something i would give at least 24 hours
@@parascalemodels I know it's a bit late but if a primer needs 24 + hours to be fully dry and sandable, it's not a good primer. All those acrylic/urethane primers are crap and easily peel off. I know laquer based primers that have shorter drying time than this one. A real primer should be ready to use without thinning and should be dry and sandable within an hour or less. Anything else does not deserve the name.
FWIW Liquitex Flow Aid is a concentrate, it's dilution rate is 20 parts water to 1 part Flow Aid. I keep this in a squeeze bottle all made up and that is what gets dropped into the paint mix as required , if required ( not so much with Stynylrez). I generally prefer their Slow Dry additive in my airbrushing than I do flow aid though.. I know you are happy with how you do it.
@@parascalemodels tried it last night with AK acrylic thinner and the result was great. Will try thru an airbrush soon. How do acrylic base layer paints stick to thin coats of stynylrez?
I just used up my supply of Stynlrez and and needed some grey primer. So I mixed some grey craft paint and floor wax and it worked as well as the Stynlrez. Floor wax is a urethane type of product and is designed for adhesion and durability. And you can make your primer any color you want.
@@bleedinggumsroberts3579 I don't sand my primers. It lays down flat. If you're paint isn't adhering without sanding your primer use a different primer.
Great video PSM !! I notice You like the UMP Ultimate thinner, I have been trying to get some and all I can find are U K dealers wanting to charge #23 dollars shipping for an $8 dollar bottle of thinner or airbrush cleaner. Any help as to where I can get it in the States would be greatly appreciated. Regards Dan
I ordered mine directly from UMP's website. They combine shipping. I ordered a bunch of sanding sticks and the airbrush thinner and cleaner. This made the shipping more tolerable. Thanks for watching. As for their products....worth the money when you do a bigger order. Cheers
I mix 60/40 filtered water to 91% IPA in a squeeze bottle then add 10 drops of retarder to that ( depending on the size of the bottle used as your thinner bottle, mine I think are 700ml, I use Liquitex Slow Dry). That is my thinner that so far works in every acrylic paint I've tried it in from craft paints to artist soft body paints, Model Master acrylics and Tamiya acrylics and Stynylrez primers. It goes on pretty much like enamel paint..
@@parascalemodels Thanks. I've been having trouble with this primer drying on the tip of the airbrush and stopping it from flowing properly, hopefully thinning it will help.
I have tried several products through the years. But what actually works fastest and best is Windshield Washer Fluid. I also use Vallejo Airbrush cleaner. WWF will eventually strip the nickel coating from the bowl. Not a big deal, just a heads up. Happy modelling
I don't mean to be difficult and kill the video but you don't need either Flow aid or thinners with this product even the bottle says sprays without thinning! I did a whole 1:16 tank yesterday with it straight from the bottle! - Does not need thinning even UMP who's primer is the same one say it does not need thinning!
I certainly agree that it doesn't strictly need it, but the flow aid gives you a bit more time to play with, as acrylics always tend to dry on the tip really quickly for me. although i can fix a lot of that by spraying a minute amount of thinners mixed with a drop or two of flow aid or reducer through the brush just before pouring in the paint and spraying away.
@@uglitor I'm getting blowback in FB from people saying it should never be thinned. I've yet to consistently airbrush this primer raw with no reducing or using an additive.
@@padrespeaks Yeah it's really peculiar. I've watched numerous different people spray it raw, without any thinning or flow aid with similar equipment I have on Twitch streams and on youtube. It seems to work quite well for them. Few others have said that the constant tip dry and sputtering is just how it is and just clean the needle tip with a q-tip. And then there are some (like me) who have nothing but problems with the stuff. No matter if they shoot it raw or thin it. Some people have speculated that something might have happened during the transportation or storage and that has messed up the paint, but I don't know if this has any merit to it. The paint seems just fine untill you start to shoot it. It dries and sputters even on 0.5mm needle.
I attempted to spray it straight out of the bottle and it was awful. Clogs every couple seconds, and I had to do a deep clean of the airbrush after cleaned the paint out because it had dried all in the brush. Definetly will be thinning it down and putting retarder in it from now on.
I have, worked much better. I did about a half to half ratio of thinner to primer and a drop of retarder. Makes it not as black but since its just a priming and not a base coat im fine with that.
i had the same problems on and off when i would use stynylrez black...i asked on fb just yesterday and everyone is saying never to thin it, so ya i have to at least try it. i can see the consistency being more workable with an iwata spray gun, but .5 needle badget patriot is kinda pushing it
@@CFster it's not something uncommon, a lot of people use Mr. levelling thinner to thin down acrylics with good results. When I need to do a more precise job I thin down Ammo by Mig acrylics with Mr. Levelling thinner and I noticed a better flow and more important less tip drying.
It takes more time but the advantages of thinning both primer and paint far outweigh the extra time it takes. It goes on smoother, it's easier to control, far less chance of splatter and tip drying and you can use lower air pressure which makes it easier for the ventilation system to suck up the airborne particles. Pro Tip. You can add acrylic inks to your primers to get your prime coat closer to your finish coat. Acrylic inks are also good for thinning paints and maintaining opacity w/o breaking down the binders. You can also spray them directly and they spray better than paints.
Yeah that’s what they say. I have an iwata revolution with a .5 needle and I’ve sprayed at 30psi. It’s an awful experience. The black is thinner. The white is unsrpayable. I don’t care what anyone says. After 5 years I finally tossed my stynlrez in the bottom drawer. So I’ll try this process
User error. I've been spraying all three primer colors (white, black and gray), unthinned, through my H&S Evolution w/a .40 needle @ 25 psi. Never had an issue.
@@parascalemodels, it says in the instructions that it can be used right out of the bottle. But, unfortunately, you can't; worst paint I've ever used. It looks great on the model, but not worth the trouble; I'll never use it again. Nice video, though, thanks for your reply.
@@woodybear8298unfortunate, it's Impossible to satisfy everyone. Without knowing what your setup is, and a detailed breakdown of every step you took when using this primer, no one can give you an answer. I have had clogs only with white, but who doesn't have trouble with white paint of all types. I use a 105 patriot at 25psi and flow improver added to the bottle directly, without issues that aren't related to the paint. I sometimes neglect my badger airbrush, but it keeps going.
I never thin Stynlrez and have absolutely no issues with it. That said , I build mostly armor kits where the paint doesn`t have to be perfect in the least. It`s a great product and my go-to primer.
Nice video, use this all the time. I never thin it, but you have it down for sure. Great airbrushing techniques also. Thanks for sharing.
THE best primer on the market...hands down.
Cool
Great video, very detailed, straight to the point, and informative. Am trying this primer for the first time and although they say you can spray it straight from the bottle, I was hesitant. But now I know I can thin it and that in turn just doubled the amount I have. Thanks for the video, subscribed!
Thinning helps the primer lay down flatter thus giving a better finish coat. Happy airbrushing and thanks for the comment and sub
You didn't double the amount, you have the same amount at half the strength. Thinning it has many advantages but the amount of coverage you get is determined by the amount of pigment in the primer and that doesn't change by thinning.
Instablaster...
Thanks for this- I was about to chuck my bottle of Stynylrez. Turns out I was just way under-dosing on the thinner. Your method worked great.
You shouldnt have to thin it at all...
@@zm0rc Yes, it's designed to spray straight from bottle and loses some of its good properties when thinned. If it isn't spraying then it could be a gun/compressor issue or defective/damaged bottle (never let it exist in subzero temps).
G'day PSM, Thank you so much for this video. Many, many people have advised me not to thin Stynylrez and because I have a handheld, cordless airbrush I can't vary the pressure. This was a disaster when I first used Stynylrez. I have since used your 'magic' recipe for this product and I can't tell you how much bother you've saved me. My priming even with that cheap little airbrush was faultless. Now that I have a 'proper' airbrush set up, I've continued to use your recipe for Stynylrez. Your technique was also vital to the success of my priming jobs.
I used to dislike messing around with primers that I tried Tamiya spray cans of it but the results were always over the top. I'll be subscribing so I can learn how you get a 'showroom shine' on bikes and car models. I always used to do aircraft and armour that needed weathering. Now, I want to have a go at maybe urethane clear coating. I've read that's how one gets that brand new car look. Anyway, I look forward to seeing more of your videos. Cheers, mate. BH Hobart, Tasmania
Great tip broham! Mixed the "Witch's brew" and it works amazing with vallejo primer. I get double the use of a bottle! Keep on the fight!🤙
For others trying to do this on the cheap ... my mom uses those creamer cups(she gets a box of like 100 at costco, same kind you get with to go coffee) .. once emptied and rinsed/washed out, those make perfect mixing cups for small amounts, and the finish on the plastic used helps the pain slide right out so there's little waste. It's that, or go to the dollar store and buy a pack of shot glasses.
Or you could just use an old paintbrush and mix it in the paint hooper on the airbrush and cut out the extra steps...
Thanks for your video. I spray(use 0.5 badger airbrush) this primer directly from the bottle, however always stuck. I know the thin ratio now thanks so much.
Super helpful. Deserves more views - Cheers!
Hi 👋 there !! Can u use this products on metal surfaces like aluminum ?
Did you not mix the primer before opening the cap?
Of course the primer was thoroughly mixed. 🙂😊
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing
Cheers.
Nice video! How much time do you recommend waiting before applying some acrylic paint over?
this is one of those depends questions.....small areas like seats or something you can do same day. If you are doing a body or something i would give at least 24 hours
I spray mine on with nothing added and it sprays fine in my Badger Patriot 105
When I try to shoot Stynyl with 0.35 needle I get tip dry and spattering like after 3 seconds.
great video on stynylrez what part of Canada are you from
Is it sandable?
Yes it is sandable…….I would however recommend that you let it dry for 48 hours first. Cheers
@@parascalemodels I know it's a bit late but if a primer needs 24 + hours to be fully dry and sandable, it's not a good primer. All those acrylic/urethane primers are crap and easily peel off. I know laquer based primers that have shorter drying time than this one. A real primer should be ready to use without thinning and should be dry and sandable within an hour or less. Anything else does not deserve the name.
@@captainhindsight675 some of us don’t want lung disease.
FWIW Liquitex Flow Aid is a concentrate, it's dilution rate is 20 parts water to 1 part Flow Aid. I keep this in a squeeze bottle all made up and that is what gets dropped into the paint mix as required , if required ( not so much with Stynylrez). I generally prefer their Slow Dry additive in my airbrushing than I do flow aid though.. I know you are happy with how you do it.
How would vallejo airbrush thinner work as a substitute?
I am not sure. Have not tried it. Mix it in a cup, stir the piss out of it and see if it gels up. If it does not, you should be good to go.
@@parascalemodels tried it last night with AK acrylic thinner and the result was great. Will try thru an airbrush soon. How do acrylic base layer paints stick to thin coats of stynylrez?
@@padrespeaks What the primer was made for mate. Should have no problems
I just used up my supply of Stynlrez and and needed some grey primer. So I mixed some grey craft paint and floor wax and it worked as well as the Stynlrez. Floor wax is a urethane type of product and is designed for adhesion and durability. And you can make your primer any color you want.
BennyCFD is it sandable?
@@bleedinggumsroberts3579 He's probably talking about a self levelling floor polish which should go on perfectly smooth and not need sanding.
@@bleedinggumsroberts3579 I don't sand my primers. It lays down flat. If you're paint isn't adhering without sanding your primer use a different primer.
Great video PSM !! I notice You like the UMP Ultimate thinner, I have been trying to get some and all I can find are U K dealers wanting to charge #23 dollars shipping for an $8 dollar bottle of thinner or airbrush cleaner. Any help as to where I can get it in the States
would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Dan
I ordered mine directly from UMP's website. They combine shipping. I ordered a bunch of sanding sticks and the airbrush thinner and cleaner. This made the shipping more tolerable. Thanks for watching. As for their products....worth the money when you do a bigger order. Cheers
Thank You Much!!
Thanks Mate
I mix 60/40 filtered water to 91% IPA in a squeeze bottle then add 10 drops of retarder to that ( depending on the size of the bottle used as your thinner bottle, mine I think are 700ml, I use Liquitex Slow Dry). That is my thinner that so far works in every acrylic paint I've tried it in from craft paints to artist soft body paints, Model Master acrylics and Tamiya acrylics and Stynylrez primers. It goes on pretty much like enamel paint..
Does thinning affect durability at all?
a couple of coats and it is very durable......dry overnight and you can sand away
@@parascalemodels Thanks. I've been having trouble with this primer drying on the tip of the airbrush and stopping it from flowing properly, hopefully thinning it will help.
So how do you clean this out of your airbrush after you’ve used it?? This is a polyurethane primer right?
I have tried several products through the years. But what actually works fastest and best is Windshield Washer Fluid. I also use Vallejo Airbrush cleaner. WWF will eventually strip the nickel coating from the bowl. Not a big deal, just a heads up. Happy modelling
Para Scale Models thanks a ton man!! 😁
I don't mean to be difficult and kill the video but you don't need either Flow aid or thinners with this product even the bottle says sprays without thinning! I did a whole 1:16 tank yesterday with it straight from the bottle! - Does not need thinning even UMP who's primer is the same one say it does not need thinning!
Like the video states, this is how "I" use it. Yes it can be sprayed straight. But I prefer my method. Thank you for the input though
I certainly agree that it doesn't strictly need it, but the flow aid gives you a bit more time to play with, as acrylics always tend to dry on the tip really quickly for me. although i can fix a lot of that by spraying a minute amount of thinners mixed with a drop or two of flow aid or reducer through the brush just before pouring in the paint and spraying away.
When I try to shoot Stynyl with 0.35 needle I get tip dry and spattering like after 3 seconds.
@@uglitor I'm getting blowback in FB from people saying it should never be thinned. I've yet to consistently airbrush this primer raw with no reducing or using an additive.
@@padrespeaks Yeah it's really peculiar. I've watched numerous different people spray it raw, without any thinning or flow aid with similar equipment I have on Twitch streams and on youtube.
It seems to work quite well for them. Few others have said that the constant tip dry and sputtering is just how it is and just clean the needle tip with a q-tip.
And then there are some (like me) who have nothing but problems with the stuff. No matter if they shoot it raw or thin it.
Some people have speculated that something might have happened during the transportation or storage and that has messed up the paint, but I don't know if this has any merit to it. The paint seems just fine untill you start to shoot it. It dries and sputters even on 0.5mm needle.
great video and learned about other items to get. Like the low key no BS presentation. Perfect.
I attempted to spray it straight out of the bottle and it was awful. Clogs every couple seconds, and I had to do a deep clean of the airbrush after cleaned the paint out because it had dried all in the brush. Definetly will be thinning it down and putting retarder in it from now on.
Have you tried shooting it thinned yet? How did it go?
I have, worked much better. I did about a half to half ratio of thinner to primer and a drop of retarder. Makes it not as black but since its just a priming and not a base coat im fine with that.
@@ActualDragonTears Thanks man! I will try thinning.
I wish you the best of luck!
i had the same problems on and off when i would use stynylrez black...i asked on fb just yesterday and everyone is saying never to thin it, so ya i have to at least try it. i can see the consistency being more workable with an iwata spray gun, but .5 needle badget patriot is kinda pushing it
Three years later: how does it behave when you put lacquer paint on top of it?
I have never used lacquer with this primer. Only acrylics.
One year later: I tried with Mr. Levelling Thinner and it got a jelly consistency!
@@thedidaco what I’ve learn so far is that lacquer paints are the way to go with airbrush
@@thedidaco yeah why would you use a lacquer thinner with an acrylic primer.
@@CFster it's not something uncommon, a lot of people use Mr. levelling thinner to thin down acrylics with good results. When I need to do a more precise job I thin down Ammo by Mig acrylics with Mr. Levelling thinner and I noticed a better flow and more important less tip drying.
It takes more time but the advantages of thinning both primer and paint far outweigh the extra time it takes. It goes on smoother, it's easier to control, far less chance of splatter and tip drying and you can use lower air pressure which makes it easier for the ventilation system to suck up the airborne particles.
Pro Tip. You can add acrylic inks to your primers to get your prime coat closer to your finish coat. Acrylic inks are also good for thinning paints and maintaining opacity w/o breaking down the binders. You can also spray them directly and they spray better than paints.
exactly!
out of 20 diff blacks... stynylrez is the only one that cracks...
do you care if I share this video on my Facebook page ?
By all means. Thanks for watching!
This product must be shot with a .05 needle at 25 to 30lbs of air
Yeah that’s what they say. I have an iwata revolution with a .5 needle and I’ve sprayed at 30psi. It’s an awful experience. The black is thinner. The white is unsrpayable. I don’t care what anyone says. After 5 years I finally tossed my stynlrez in the bottom drawer. So I’ll try this process
It is the most God-awful primer I've ever used. Drys too fast plugs up my Badger airbrush. I wound up throwing it away.
only because you arent using this technique. Try it. It will change your mind
User error. I've been spraying all three primer colors (white, black and gray), unthinned, through my H&S Evolution w/a .40 needle @ 25 psi. Never had an issue.
@@parascalemodels, it says in the instructions that it can be used right out of the bottle. But, unfortunately, you can't; worst paint I've ever used. It looks great on the model, but not worth the trouble; I'll never use it again. Nice video, though, thanks for your reply.
@@woodybear8298unfortunate, it's Impossible to satisfy everyone. Without knowing what your setup is, and a detailed breakdown of every step you took when using this primer, no one can give you an answer. I have had clogs only with white, but who doesn't have trouble with white paint of all types. I use a 105 patriot at 25psi and flow improver added to the bottle directly, without issues that aren't related to the paint. I sometimes neglect my badger airbrush, but it keeps going.