Hi mate, your post 6 or 7 years ago inspired me to keep going with my modelling, particularly as I had just bought a basic airbrush and some Vallejo paints. Your post gave me just enough info to get me started again, without overwhelming me, and I have since broadened my paints (still Vallejo!) and skill set since. I just wanted to say thank you; most weeks I do some modelling now and it takes my mind off all the other crap/pressures/life in general rubbish that we all have to deal with, and it's a tonic. Cheers!
You are perhaps the first person (other than some of the native speakers on TH-cam) to pronounce the name of the company with the proper double-ell sound, thank you! Also, informative and interesting video, keep it up!
Thanks for talking the time to show us this, very helpful. Thank you also for the pronounciation of Vallejo, as I come from the UK I would never have known lol
My order of Model Air just arrived today,{ WWII USAAF} so I was hunting around looking for tips on how to spray/mix and I came across your vid. Excellent! Thanks for the vid and info. I would have definitely thinned the MA not knowing. - Bob
Great video bud, very complete and comprehensive, just perfect for anyone with doubts about thinning Vallejo Model Color paints. Thanks for sharing! :)
Great video thanks! I have always used 'Vallejo Air' acrylics in a 'Iwata' with a 50/25 mix and had no problem but tonight i tried 'Vallejo Model Colour' and it fouled up straight away. I tried your 50/50 and it is now fine. Thanks for the tip.
I've found if you add the thinner to the cup before the Model Colour it will be much less likely to clog up. Especially at the beginning of the spray session where the thick paint is all the way in the feed..
I use your poppet system for mixing acrylic paints sometime, however i bought some dealer scales on Amazon measure down to .001g its good and very accurate. Good Vid. Cheers Ken in Stafford, UK
Late to the show but this video did help me out with these Vallejo paints. I use an Iwata AB and normally Tamiya paints when I go out of town to get them where they are available. The hobby store here only carries the Model Master paints and the Vallejo paints. I recently went for the Vallejo Panzer line of paints and using it was like hitting a brick wall. In under a minute it would begin to clog my AB to a point of spattering at 15 PSI and above. At one point it completely clogged my AB to a point of having to totally break it down and clean it out. Thinning these paints are a totally different ball game than thinning the Tamiya paints. I have however at some points, had to use the Tamiya retarder to stop the quick drying the Tamiya paints seem to have. I use to get a rough-like finish sometimes but since using the retarder stops it. I have a better grasp of the Vallejo paints now since watching this video. I think I'll try some of their Vallejo Air line next.
I have made the home brew that awesome paint job posted for brush painting and it works great. Now for the airbrush I use nothing but the best windshield washing fluid from Walmart 4.99 a gallon and in the year I've been using it have yet to have seal problems. Yup on a hot day flow aid works great. Cheers.
Very informative video and thank you. I'm more adept in using lacquer based paints. Learned more about airbrushing Vallejo paints. I use a drop of liquid dish washing soap. The kind that don't have moisturizer or cologne because I found out the hard way that in the long run moisturizer and cologne contained alcohol or dish washing alternatives affects the paint and make them yellowish and peel. Instead of using steel ball bearings why not use small glass marbles for agitator. I use them for my Mr Color, Mr Aqueous, Tamiya acrylics, Humbrol enamel paints. I hope this helps also. :) :)
Vallejo Flow Improver is the answer - you can even use it on it's own, with no thinners. Works wonders! What a mess that bench is, I couldn't work at that
Nicely done Andy..... Thanks for the demonstration. I am a novice and still learning the ropes so this was useful to me.... I use model air but sometimes humbrol or Revell aqua so thinning is a must with these. Thanks again matey.... :O )
Great Video ! I really enjoy the Vallejo colors, I kind of swear by them when it comes to painting, they really provide me with accurate colors and great results.
I will stick with tamiya acrylic paint mixed 2 to 1. I have had too many clogging issues with Vallejo paints and if you thin it down for a good flow you have to use 3 times as much paint to cover!!
I had a short bout of luck with Vallejo from an Airbrush thanks to this video, that was three years ago. I finished a single kit using their thinner and flow aid. Their Model Air has been a pretty useless product to me however, as it does not spray well for long. Tonight I revisited Model Air and added a ton of flow aid in order to get it to spray. It just does not perform as well as Tamiya or Mr Color with Mr Leveling Thinner; nor does it spray as well as mission model paint. You have much better results that I have had though. I’ll continue to use Vallejo to hand paint, as it does perform in that category.
I use testors acrylic thinner and it works too. Im using it though a Badger 350 with an air can. I just use shorter burst and keep the can in warm water. I clogged at first but after I added enough thinner to it to the consistency of milk, it works fine. Course Im using a medium size needle too so don't know how it would work with a finer needle.
I want to make one edit to my above posting...do not put your air cans in warm water. I started having condensation problems. I just switched to using short burst and take my time about painting it.
I'd like to mention about my experiment about airbrushing Vallejo's. They are quite familiar with clogging issue no matter what you do, as everyone knows. But i've witnessed something yesterday. What actually clogs is, the already dried paint particules inside the paint cup during spraying. And these particules occur on the top side of the paint, around the paint cup. You know, during spraying, there will always be a little paint stain while the paint level decreasing in the paint cup, i guess thats the issue! To prevent that, i think keeping the paint cup closed during painting will vastly reduce the drying time of the paint inside the cup.
you can also use glass beads from jewelry sections.if users ball bearings be sure they are stainless steel otherwise they will rust in the bottles..thanx for vid
Ball bearings ? Any half decent bicycle shop should have half a dozen different sizes - .1875" diameter works for me. I wish I could keep my workbench as tidy and organized as you do. Absolutely pristine.
Andrew G. Whitaker Shortly after this Chris from Chris and Alex modeling informed me about the source for said ball bearings. They are readily available on Ebay from many sources. You can buy 100 qty. 440C stainless steel ball bearings for about $8-10. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Great vid Andy. lots of good stuff in there. You have to be careful with washers and ball bearings... they can rust eh? I've seen a few bottles of pain go in the bin because they were contaminated by rusted ball bearings and the like. I just shake the living piss out of it and that usually does the trick. If you can find non reactive metals or a really dense plastic it could do the trick maybe. There's even those expensive paint shakers and stirrers that will do the job.
Every time I use the Vallejo primers my airbrush clogs up. I'll find that sweet spot and then lose it. Once I find that sweet spot between paint, thinner and air pressure the Vallejo paint coverage is awesome.
I had the same problem. I have been adding Vallejo flow improver to my primers and paints. be warned this will increase the drying time, and your primer will go down wet. you will have to play around with the ratio, but I find 50/50 works for me. I have taught myself to not pull the trigger all the way back when spraying. This dramatically reduces the amount of paint being sprayed. This is important, because when airbrushing highly thinned paint spider legs are a problem.
I've got a chance to find and test the new AB Thinner formula today; and guess what! It's the same thing with Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner! Its smell, form, color, opacity, oilyness, everything! No need to pay for a same item sold under as if its a different product ;)
You can buy stainless steel shot on ebay. I bought a 1lb bag for 15 bucks. Make sure it's stainless as the chrome or aluminum tends to rust in the bottle
What size stainless steel shot would be appropriate for the Vallejo dropper bottles? Do you have to buy the steel shot in bulk since it's usually used for reloading shotgun shells? The Citadel pots are wide and the paint usually thicker... I'm thinking i'd get slightly bigger shot for those, any suggestions?
Sturmavk Not shot...ball bearings and you would need 1/4". Steel shot is not stainless( I am also a shooter and handloader btw) and would corode and and ruin the paint very quickly. Here is a link to the dealer I buy mine from...www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-inch-Diameter-Stainless-Steel-440C-G16-Bearing-Balls-/400280238646?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5d328fba36 They are also available in in 420C but 440C is harder and better corrosion resistance properties imo. Cheers and thanks for watching!
Sturmavk What you're looking for is called stainless steel ball stock, you can buy them at fastenal or grainger stores if you have one in your area. It's the ball part of a ball bearing, technically the ball bearing is the complete assembly with races.
Ok, ive tried using vellajos directions on their airbrush thinner with their gloss varnish and even when cranked up to nearly 30psi ive had clogging issues making it difficult to get anything. Ill have to try 1 to 1 and see if that works as needed at the average low 15psi.
Even when I thin model air I still get a gritty coat When I spray it through my airbrush I tried all types of ratios with the thinner and with some flow aid
What you are experiencing is called "orange peel". The paint is drying before it hits your subject. This is caused by either too much pressure or being too far away with your airbrush. I would first move closer only about 3-4 inches from your subject and then if that doesn't work turn the pressure down. You only need 15-20 psi to spray Vallejo paints.
I wish this video had been around ten years ago when I started airbrushing, it would've saved me a lot of grief! Also, good job on the correct pronunciation of Vallejo, it aggravates the s@*t out of me when people mispronounce that name (it's a proper pronoun. dang it)! Keep up the good work!
abel paoli What do you mean?, The most common way of pronouncing Vallejo is Vah-Lay-Ho and while it’s not the Spanish way of saying it it’s still just as correct as Vah-Yeh-Ho, Adding to the fact that most people will look at you funny if you pronounce it in the spanish way.
Oh a piece of advice to anyone out there thinking about the ball bearing mixer hack, don't use coins. I tried it and killed a few paints from the coins tarnishing and corroding into the paint.
Nice tips and demo, I'd say! Gonna start with Vallejo Model and the Air versions as I can get these faster that Tamiya ones. Maybe I'll move forward with Tamiya or Alclad (lacquer) afterwards. Oh trivia - we pronounce the double "L" (or 'el-ye'/'elle' as we call it) as something like the "L" first then the "y" - we are not Spanish/Latin Americans but that is how Spanish is taught in our electives in college. So Vallejo to us is: VAL-YE-HO :D Thanks once again!
Thank you so much for the kind words and I am glad you found the information useful. Having grown up in a border state populated 40% by Latinos and having several European Spaniard's emphasize it as well I can assure you it is pronounced "Va-Yay-Ho" with the accent on the last syllable. Cheers and thanks for watching!
TacticalJackalope Well anyway, forgot to ask - I read in the Vallejo site's FAQs that you can still thin Model Air paint with their thinner up to 1:3, but being the noob painter myself, I am not quite sure what in the world that ratio means; does it mean 1paint:3thinner or the other way around? What are your thoughts about that? Thanks once again :D
Gimel Tomines No you were right the first time it means 1 part paint to 3 parts thinner but Model Air should spray right out of the bottle without thinning. IF you thin it I would only do so cautiously and one drop at a time.
Good video. I got a few large scale figures, a few 1/10 scale and a few 1/4 scale. Be nice if Vallejo would make skin tone colors for airbrushing as such a large scale really should be airbrushed to eliminate any brush strokes over such a large area.
Oh you can shoot anything in an airbrush as long as you have the consistency of milk. I've used latex house paint when I was out of white. When you go to a quick stop or Seven Eleven get a bunch of the plastic coffee stirrer's.
+BennyCFD No, I'm not a cheap ass or poor. It is always wise to use the best tool possible and stealing extra stirring sticks is about the dumbest fucking thing I have ever heard of. If you can't handle the $4-5 bucks for some decent stirrers then you my friend have serious problems financially. One more bullshit commit btw and you will be gone forever from my channel.
1) Quick question with Vallejo Surface Primer in a bottle and Vallejo Airbrush Thinner would you recommend adding NO thinner for a 0.5mm needle in the airbrush ? 2) Also say for a Citadel Base Paint McCragge Blue (NOT the air range version) would you recommend a 50/50 ratio with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner for a 0.5mm needle in an airbrush ?
I've never reduced/thinned Vallejo Surface Primer nor would I it sprays beautifully "neat" or straight from the bottle. I've never used Citadel paint so I can't answer that question.
Well I'm going to do it with a new cheap 0.5mm airbrush / compressor / and Vallejo Surface Primer (grey) on a new space marine right now this second so wish me luck. (psi 20)
Well that's great for a gravity feed well that's great for a graph to feed what if I'm using a siphon feed how much thinner do I use then with the siphon feed bottle VALLEJO paints ...???
I've heard using ball bearings in Vallejo bottles is a risk. Once you're squeezing the bottle, and the ball falls down into the mouth and blocks it, you can end up popping the nose off your bottle and bursting paint everywhere. I use small hex nuts instead, which won't clog the mouth. 316 stainless (marine grade) so they won't rust and change your paint color.
Thanks for the feedback. 45 psi is just what my compressor is set at regardless. I'll try lowering it though. Could you tell me the ratio of water to Vallejo paints for air brushing please? Thanks!
+jammerman28 I would love to only issue I have never used it therefore it would not be appropriate to suggest a ration. I would experiment always using going for the consistency of skim milk.
You could use air gun/ BB gun pellets instead of ball bearing. The .177cal lead once. They usually are cheap and a tin should last quite a while. I don't know if the lead will effect the paint.
That will work to. In the end it's just mixing paint. There are probably a lot of things one could use. You won't go wrong with washers that's for sure.
Yeah, BBs work, but you use the brass ones for one type of paint, lead for the other (acrylics vs. oil-based paints) but I can't remember which to use with which... :-( This is my half*ss comment... :-)
I had a thought about your ball bearing issue. There are different grades of shot for shot gun reloaders. Did you ever think of going to your local gun dealer and look into getting some shot to use in your paint to mix it.
+lastdollarfilms No so much actually especailly if it is a water based acrylic paint. They will rust and then contaminate the paint also ruining the paint. Stainless steel ball bearings or perhaps a nut I'm afraid is the only way to go.
@@TacticalJackalope Never had that issue, It takes air for corrosion to happen. When it's in paint and solvent no air can get in. Ask your self why the rattle cans ball doesn't damage the paint? Not too sure your shopping at the right place. BB's should cost.... www.walmart.com/ip/DAISY-2400-COUNT-PRECISIONMAX-BB-BOTTLE/15729970?athcpid=15729970&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS004&athguid=83eecfa5-11c-172bb28b91ca32&athancid=null&athena=true
Yeah, that's not a thing no eye dropper bottle is air tight plus air gets in when they fill the bottle. I'm glad BB's work for you. To be honest I could give a shit what you use.
I'm using alot of Vallejo Game Colors with my airbrush and I'm having trouble with doing fine gradients and such without overthinning the paint which causes splatter. Should I thin VGC with 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint as a guide line? And I'll have to inncrease the thinner as I decrease the PSI to do the small detailing?
I'm having trouble with spraying acrylics. I always get a grainy finish. I've done just about everything I can think of. I've tried more thinner, lower psi, spraying closer. I use a master brand airbrush. Do you think I need a better airbrush? I wouldn't think the airbrush would matter that much. Any information would be helpful. Thanks
Jeffery Barker I went ahead and bought a new airbrush. I bought a badger patriot 105-1. I haven't used it yet. Hope It helps. You make some great videos, a lot of useful info. I will keep adjusting if I still have troubles.
Hey TacticalJackalope, thanks for the demo. Can Tamiya paint thinner be combined with Vallejo 'model paint' in an air brush? And if so, do you know the ratio? I'm using an Iwata Revolution at 45 psi. Any tips or suggestions you have? Thanks
+jammerman28 No it cannot I'm afraid. The Tamiya X20-A thinner is isopropyl alcohol based and is Not compatible with Model Air or Model Color. Vallejo paints can be thinned with tap water or their own thinner that is what I would recommend you use. In addition 45 PSI...?? WAY too high. Vallejo likes low pressure and sprays best around 12-15 psi. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Hey. I've got an VEDA W-130A airbrush; expect the trigger stopping thing at the back - i'm doing it manually by opening the back case - Anyway, i've got this big problem since i've bought this. Even if i loosen the "chuck" all the way down, my trigger has a dead-zone at the full back position and won't pull the needle back completely. For example; if i pull the trigger back by hand ~%80-85, there's still a little null zone that trigger wont pull further; and i can fully open the nozzle by pulling the needle with my hand; so that it open the paint hole %100 i guess. It's actually irritating, because even if properly thinned, M.Color's wont spray very well with the full trigger, but if i pull back by hand fully (or just unscrew the needle and pull it all the way back) it sprays flawlessly.. What should i do for that ? Note that, i'm using 0.2mm needle/nozzle with the default 0.3 needle and nozzle caps, as i'm a Vallejo paint user and as you know, m.colors are thick paints. Here's a video of me, trying to explain the situation.. Trigger issue of WD-130
I am sorry I am not familiar with this brush but I am not a fan of the cheap Chinese stuff. I would recommend you buy a name brand quality product. i.e. Badger or Paasche for example.
Great tip, Andy, and just in time for me because I am planning on doing some practice with the Vallejo model colors to spray on my little SPAD...glad I saw this in time to know to thin it down more so than others....also, speaking of "pronunciation", how about "Tamiya"? Some say, Ta-me-ah, and others say, Ta-my-ah...does anyone know? Hell, I even heard someone say it as tam-e-ah... :-)
As I have a lot of these colours, this was exactly the info I needed to know. O also saw a video using windex for Vallejo Hobby Colors and Panzer Aces. What's the deal on that? Looked liked ot worked well. But looks can be deceiving.
Gary Armstrong If you smell the the Vallejo thinner it is definitely ammonia based so using windex would seem possible. I just don't have time to experiment so I will always use the manufacturer's product.
I've been a fan of Model Master for decades and they're going away. I deed to put a falt coat on a model, I have Vallejo Mat Acrylic Varnish 26.518 as well as air brush thinner 71.361. Straight or thinned it beads up on my surfaces even after wiping down with 91% rubbing alcohol. Any clues, I've lived with clogging needles before no biggie. HELP, been duilding for years I've never had issues like this. VLS, Thayer Chandler, Iwata. All the same results.
ok thanks , I'm running a 3.2 needle so do you think it should be thinned more ?that's the largest needle I know of for my AB ..thanks in advance for the tips !
Andy X No I don't think you should have to thin it down more. There are plenty of people that use even smaller needles that don't have any problems. No worries thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
That has been suggested before. However, you might want to consider that since acrylic paints are typically water based(not always) these BB's will rust and ruin the paint. I suggest 1/4" stainless steel ball bearings they can be had on Ebay for about $12 per 100.
casualmayhem Ball bearings are not hard to find. In addition you absolutely do NOT want to use BB's in an acrylic paint. Most acrylic paints are water based and BB's are mild steel which means they WILL corrode and destroy the paint. www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-inch-Diameter-Stainless-Steel-440C-G16-Bearing-Balls-/400280238646?hash=item5d328fba36
Wow.....fantastic video, as always. I get withdrawal symptons if youve not done a video in a day of two. I need to get out more! You say that Model Air is thinner than Model Colour, but have you had to use a retarder on the Model Air? Nice idea to compare the two - do you prefer Vallejo rather than Tamiya acrylics? I use Tamiya as they are a lot cheaper, in the UK at least, and have used Model Air Russian green one time, and it turned out nice. Question about air pressure. As you know, I am just learning about airbrushing and thats why I love your videos, buu when you mention 12psi, I presume you turn on the compressor, press the trigger and then set the air pressure when its blowing out air, or do you set it to 12 without pressing the trigger and use it like that?
Hi Stevie, no you do not Need to use the drying retarder for either but in long paint sessions it can help reduce nozzle / needle clogging which is of course very handy. No, in all honesty I prefer Tamiya but their range of colors is not as extensive. I find Tamiya color very forgiving on thinning and it sprays as smooth as glass. I like the Vallejo as well but for Luftwaffe colors and some of the Panzer aces range they are the only game in town(more or less) and they are cheaper than Lifecolor which is a superb product as well. Yes, I set the pressure after my compressor has filled the tank initially. Every brush will be different my Badger likes 12-15 psi and my Tamiya/Iwata's like 15-20. When I spray base coats or varnish I will be at 15-20 depending on how thick the medium is and when doing finer detail or narrow camo schemes I will spray at around 10-12 psi.
Stevie my compressor only cost $79.96 in U.S. dollars which would only be about 40 quid. You should be able to find something similar in the U.K. Here is the exact one I purchased and btw Coen has this one as well. www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Airbrush-Compressor-110-120V-HoseFor/dp/B009S3AP1O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395967078&sr=8-4&keywords=airbrush+compressor+w%2F+tank
Yes I have the Model Color metallic set and have used them. I believe they are supposed to be thinned with an alcohol based product but I have had success using the "old" Vallejo thinner which is milky white.
TacticalJackalope Hmm, i thought the alcohol as well :) I also have the old (white) thinner, as my local hobby shop doesnt have the new version. What was your ratios ?
I dont quite understand how do you clean the nozzle? Maybe due to not being a native speaker Im not entirely sure what the nozzle is. Isnt the nozzle the hole where the air comes out? How do you clean that without removng the needle? are you just pulling it back? Wouldnt it make sense to clean the needle as well ?
If you don't mind me asking, have you ever used the Liquitex Airbrush Medium? That's what I've been using to thin down my vallejo game color paints. I don't think a 1 to 1 ratio is low enough though. I use iwata eclipse hp-cs with the .35 tip. It clogs pretty bad with the game color range. So it has to be thinned a whole lot.
To answer your question no I have not. The clogging is not entirely the thinning ratio it has to do with the incredibly fast drying time of Vallejo paint especially with model air. I use Liquitex Flow Aid to break the surface tension which helps but since I have made this video my preferred paints are now Tamiya Color they spray perfectly and are very forgiving when it comes to a thinning them. I still use Vallejo paint just not to the extent I used to. I ALWAYS use the manufacturers thinner and in the case of Vallejo it is readily available and inexpensive. Thank you so much for taking the time to watch and comment I am very grateful.
TacticalJackalope No problem buddy, it was a good video. keep up the good work. I might have to try out the Tamiya. How are the colors for the line? similar to game colors brighter pallet or like the model colors more muted pallet?
There's a lot of factors that go into thinning but with VMC and VGC and the Liquitex airbrush medium I usually use 5:1 medium to paint, some of my model color paints seem tremendously thicker (my Black grey which I love as an example) and I have to use closer to 10:1. For the Liquitex airbrush medium I recommend you transfer it to a dropper bottle too.
Great vid very helpful for someone just about to start airbrushing! Do you recommend using a respirator during painting with an airbrush using the model air paints?
Thanks for making this vid, quite helpful as i'm looking into what paints to get. Just a couple of questions: 1. What size needle do you actually have in your airbrush (0.5mm?), and if someone were using an airbrush with a needle smaller than that, would you still recommend the Vallejo products due to the clogging etc.? 2. I'm just wondering about the model air range, is it just the same as model color but they have pre-mixed in the thinner at the factory? I ask because (at least where I am) a bottle of vallejo air or color cost the same, for the same 17mm bottle. Or have they altered the paints in other ways, finer pigment etc?
+hagakure81 Vallejo explains it better than I here is the link to their site(www.acrylicosvallejo.com/model-paints) but no there is more difference than that. Yes you can use a smaller needle without issues. Its not clogging per se it dries on the tip because acrylics dry so fast. Some of their new airbrush flow improver will do wonders for you.
Nice video. I thin about the same way. Same product. Today I was getting some grainy effects along the edges of my highlights using VMC. I'm spaying around 25-30 PSI. Could then high PSI be the reason?
+Modellours Workshop No problem let me provide you some links; www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-Inch-G25-Precision-420-Stainless-Steel-Bearing-Balls-/301564213850?hash=item4636a0ba5a:g:5v4AAOxydB1ShNpI The shipping is free if you live in the U.S. I do not know what it is to Spain. There are many more listing like this on Ebay. 1/4" is about 6.35mm.
Can i use Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics together ? Like, can i prime with Vallejo and paint Tamiya over it ? Because i'm sick of this Vallejo's cloggings. Even with the 1:1 thinned tap water, it sprays out but clogs quickly, or just fades away after 4-5 sec of spraying..
Slammer Yes that would work just fine. Vallejo is somewhat pressure sensitive an increase on your regulator to say 20 psi would help. Liquitex makes a product called "Flow Aid" that works quite well it breaks the surface tension of the paint but I would only use a drop or two in the paint cup.
TacticalJackalope today i ve found that windex works better than all of them. I live in a hot country in turkey with a heavy humdity. Maybe its another reason ffor quick drying
TacticalJackalope another fact is, i just dont want to use separate colors for ab and brushing. For ab, tamiya is the best way to go, but they cant be used with brush. Its not an economical way to go besides the both paints arent compatible with each other as far as i know
They are both acrylics but Tamiya Color is alcohol based. Tamiya Color can be thinned for brush painting I use it all the time. It doesn't take much X20 I thin it about 4:1
+TacticalJackalope No...I meant taking the tip off if the clog proves too stubborn. Clean it out from the other end. And yes...I clean the a/b every time!
Gary Armstrong Oh, ok. No, I don't remove the tip. In most applications I am using my Patriot and the tip is exposed. I simply have a Q-tip nearby moistened with some cleaner or thinner to remove the residue.
Well the only problem I have is I do not have an airbrush with gravity feed my airbrush is the regular badger that's not gravity feed and you did not state which thinner to use for the model air I know I put that in my paintball and it's just sits there on the bottom I have to put dinner or some kind of thinner in my bottle and mix it to start spraying so I need to know which thinner to use for that paint to put in the bottle to keep it from clogging up my airbrush you showed several thinners,but did not use any you mainly talked about your air brush cleaner and, didn't demonstrate any of the other thinners or, which one was the best to use
EMMETT ROWE The video was pretty clear actually. You don't need to thin model air it's ready to go from the bottle. If you thin any vallejo paint I recommend you use their thinner. Water based acrylics will clog it's unavoidable they make a product called Airbrush Flow Improver which they did not when I made this video almost 4 years ago.
TacticalJackalope will that I understand but that's was a gravity feed I have a siphon feed badger so how much of the vallejo should I put in the bottle because that's a big bottle with a long siphon tube..so I haven't to add thinner to half fill the bottle to be able to start spraying...so,what do you recommend that i can do ??
In case you're still looking for ball bearings to put in your bottles (to get the paint to mix easier), Amazon has 100 for $6.50: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IK9M4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi mate, your post 6 or 7 years ago inspired me to keep going with my modelling, particularly as I had just bought a basic airbrush and some Vallejo paints. Your post gave me just enough info to get me started again, without overwhelming me, and I have since broadened my paints (still Vallejo!) and skill set since. I just wanted to say thank you; most weeks I do some modelling now and it takes my mind off all the other crap/pressures/life in general rubbish that we all have to deal with, and it's a tonic. Cheers!
You are perhaps the first person (other than some of the native speakers on TH-cam) to pronounce the name of the company with the proper double-ell sound, thank you! Also, informative and interesting video, keep it up!
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching! BTW I am from Texas so we all learn how to speak a little Spanish...:)
Small world, I'm in New Braunfels. :)
Christopher Dudley Ft. Worth! I have been tubin' on the Guadalupe many times when I was younger!
Thanks for talking the time to show us this, very helpful. Thank you also for the pronounciation of Vallejo, as I come from the UK I would never have known lol
My order of Model Air just arrived today,{ WWII USAAF} so I was hunting around looking for tips on how to spray/mix and I came across your vid. Excellent! Thanks for the vid and info. I would have definitely thinned the MA not knowing. - Bob
bob dyer You are very welcome Bob I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment.
Good job on this video. Very helpful and easy to understand. Thanks.
Great video bud, very complete and comprehensive, just perfect for anyone with doubts about thinning Vallejo Model Color paints. Thanks for sharing! :)
+Carlos Mendes Thank you my friend.
Nice video! Comparing model colors and model airs, I always wondered about the difference, now I can decide what I should buy. Thanks a lot!
Great video thanks! I have always used 'Vallejo Air' acrylics in a 'Iwata' with a 50/25 mix and had no problem but tonight i tried 'Vallejo Model Colour' and it fouled up straight away. I tried your 50/50 and it is now fine. Thanks for the tip.
I've found if you add the thinner to the cup before the Model Colour it will be much less likely to clog up. Especially at the beginning of the spray session where the thick paint is all the way in the feed..
thebaron222 yep. This is true.
I third the motion. This would be the correct way.
I use your poppet system for mixing acrylic paints sometime, however i bought some dealer scales on Amazon measure down to .001g its good and very accurate.
Good Vid.
Cheers Ken in Stafford, UK
Late to the show but this video did help me out with these Vallejo paints. I use an Iwata AB and normally Tamiya paints when I go out of town to get them where they are available. The hobby store here only carries the Model Master paints and the Vallejo paints. I recently went for the Vallejo Panzer line of paints and using it was like hitting a brick wall. In under a minute it would begin to clog my AB to a point of spattering at 15 PSI and above. At one point it completely clogged my AB to a point of having to totally break it down and clean it out. Thinning these paints are a totally different ball game than thinning the Tamiya paints. I have however at some points, had to use the Tamiya retarder to stop the quick drying the Tamiya paints seem to have. I use to get a rough-like finish sometimes but since using the retarder stops it. I have a better grasp of the Vallejo paints now since watching this video. I think I'll try some of their Vallejo Air line next.
This was a big help! Thanks for sharing this.
I have made the home brew that awesome paint job posted for brush painting and it works great. Now for the airbrush I use nothing but the best windshield washing fluid from Walmart 4.99 a gallon and in the year I've been using it have yet to have seal problems. Yup on a hot day flow aid works great. Cheers.
Da-Mad Modler Thanks for the tip Clint! I hope you are well and it is great to see you participate in the Secret Santa project this year.
Very informative video and thank you. I'm more adept in using lacquer based paints. Learned more about airbrushing Vallejo paints.
I use a drop of liquid dish washing soap. The kind that don't have moisturizer or cologne because I found out the hard way that in the long run moisturizer and cologne contained alcohol or dish washing alternatives affects the paint and make them yellowish and peel.
Instead of using steel ball bearings why not use small glass marbles for agitator. I use them for my Mr Color, Mr Aqueous, Tamiya acrylics, Humbrol enamel paints. I hope this helps also. :) :)
Thanks for the Video. Best explination I've seen to date.
You are very welcome. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
Vallejo Flow Improver is the answer - you can even use it on it's own, with no thinners. Works wonders! What a mess that bench is, I couldn't work at that
Nicely done Andy..... Thanks for the demonstration. I am a novice and still learning the ropes so this was useful to me....
I use model air but sometimes humbrol or Revell aqua so thinning is a must with these.
Thanks again matey.... :O )
No worries Andy thank you for watching.
Great Video ! I really enjoy the Vallejo colors, I kind of swear by them when it comes to painting, they really provide me with accurate colors and great results.
+Basile James Their paints I can take or leave but I occasionally use their primers.
Daisy brands bb's. I add two or three to every pot of paint. Works great. I think a box of 1000 is like $8
Thanks for the info. This has been a big help!
Left handed is the ONLY way to paint. 😉 Appreciate the tips.
I will stick with tamiya acrylic paint mixed 2 to 1. I have had too many clogging issues with Vallejo paints and if you thin it down for a good flow you have to use 3 times as much paint to cover!!
it is way to expensive, too
+1
I found a 50/50 ratio with 12psi works well with the iwata hp c plus and 4mm tip. and worked with distilled water as well.
tm_ipod is the thinner sort of a water base??
I had a short bout of luck with Vallejo from an Airbrush thanks to this video, that was three years ago. I finished a single kit using their thinner and flow aid. Their Model Air has been a pretty useless product to me however, as it does not spray well for long. Tonight I revisited Model Air and added a ton of flow aid in order to get it to spray. It just does not perform as well as Tamiya or Mr Color with Mr Leveling Thinner; nor does it spray as well as mission model paint.
You have much better results that I have had though. I’ll continue to use Vallejo to hand paint, as it does perform in that category.
Huge thanks for the video, sir! And yes, I am a subscriber.
You are very welcome Patrick I'm afraid I'm a bit embarrassed because I couldn't remember your username. My apologies and I appreciate you watching.
No apologies necessary, and thanks again for all of your videos! They're all really good, and full of great tips.
Great video very helpful thanks
I use testors acrylic thinner and it works too. Im using it though a Badger 350 with an air can. I just use shorter burst and keep the can in warm water. I clogged at first but after I added enough thinner to it to the consistency of milk, it works fine. Course Im using a medium size needle too so don't know how it would work with a finer needle.
I want to make one edit to my above posting...do not put your air cans in warm water. I started having condensation problems. I just switched to using short burst and take my time about painting it.
I'd like to mention about my experiment about airbrushing Vallejo's.
They are quite familiar with clogging issue no matter what you do, as everyone knows. But i've witnessed something yesterday. What actually clogs is, the already dried paint particules inside the paint cup during spraying. And these particules occur on the top side of the paint, around the paint cup. You know, during spraying, there will always be a little paint stain while the paint level decreasing in the paint cup, i guess thats the issue!
To prevent that, i think keeping the paint cup closed during painting will vastly reduce the drying time of the paint inside the cup.
+Slammer A few drops of their retarder or their airbrush flow improver also does the trick.
I glued a tums bottle to the blade of a jigsaw and it shakes eye droper bottles up really really good
You can also use glaze medium to slow drying time, increase flow and transparency of color. Much more thinner than retarder.
I MUST TRY VALLEJO ACRYLICS LINE OF PAINTS!
I used little glass bbs from EBay and works perfectly
you can also use glass beads from jewelry sections.if users ball bearings be sure they are stainless steel otherwise they will rust in the bottles..thanx for vid
+Timothy Byars Too light I'll stick with 440C ball bearings.
+TacticalJackalope Just use BB'S
About time someone pronounce Vallejo correctly!
In English its pronounced with an L sound. Both are correct. They are different language pronunciations....
Love you work, Don't use ball-bearings use a stainless nut, depending on the size of the ball-bearing it may stop paint from coming out.
That helped me a lot. Thanks for this video.
+Eric LEMOINE You are very welcome.
Ball bearings ?
Any half decent bicycle shop should have half a dozen different sizes - .1875" diameter works for me.
I wish I could keep my workbench as tidy and organized as you do. Absolutely pristine.
Andrew G. Whitaker Shortly after this Chris from Chris and Alex modeling informed me about the source for said ball bearings. They are readily available on Ebay from many sources. You can buy 100 qty. 440C stainless steel ball bearings for about $8-10. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Great vid Andy. lots of good stuff in there.
You have to be careful with washers and ball bearings... they can rust eh? I've seen a few bottles of pain go in the bin because they were contaminated by rusted ball bearings and the like.
I just shake the living piss out of it and that usually does the trick.
If you can find non reactive metals or a really dense plastic it could do the trick maybe.
There's even those expensive paint shakers and stirrers that will do the job.
Will do some of the guys have made some good recommendations in that arena so I will be checking them out for sure.
I use stainless steel nuts for the job...work pretty well...been over a year in the containers so far and no sign of corrosion yet.
Every time I use the Vallejo primers my airbrush clogs up. I'll find that sweet spot and then lose it. Once I find that sweet spot between paint, thinner and air pressure the Vallejo paint coverage is awesome.
I had the same problem. I have been adding Vallejo flow improver to my primers and paints. be warned this will increase the drying time, and your primer will go down wet. you will have to play around with the ratio, but I find 50/50 works for me.
I have taught myself to not pull the trigger all the way back when spraying. This dramatically reduces the amount of paint being sprayed. This is important, because when airbrushing highly thinned paint spider legs are a problem.
I've got a chance to find and test the new AB Thinner formula today; and guess what! It's the same thing with Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner! Its smell, form, color, opacity, oilyness, everything! No need to pay for a same item sold under as if its a different product ;)
Thanks for sharing.
You can buy stainless steel shot on ebay. I bought a 1lb bag for 15 bucks. Make sure it's stainless as the chrome or aluminum tends to rust in the bottle
Thanks Gill I appreciate the good info. How are you liking that new H&S beauty you got?
What size stainless steel shot would be appropriate for the Vallejo dropper bottles? Do you have to buy the steel shot in bulk since it's usually used for reloading shotgun shells? The Citadel pots are wide and the paint usually thicker... I'm thinking i'd get slightly bigger shot for those, any suggestions?
Sturmavk Not shot...ball bearings and you would need 1/4". Steel shot is not stainless( I am also a shooter and handloader btw) and would corode and and ruin the paint very quickly. Here is a link to the dealer I buy mine from...www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-inch-Diameter-Stainless-Steel-440C-G16-Bearing-Balls-/400280238646?pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item5d328fba36
They are also available in in 420C but 440C is harder and better corrosion resistance properties imo. Cheers and thanks for watching!
Thanks brother
Sturmavk What you're looking for is called stainless steel ball stock, you can buy them at fastenal or grainger stores if you have one in your area. It's the ball part of a ball bearing, technically the ball bearing is the complete assembly with races.
Ok, ive tried using vellajos directions on their airbrush thinner with their gloss varnish and even when cranked up to nearly 30psi ive had clogging issues making it difficult to get anything.
Ill have to try 1 to 1 and see if that works as needed at the average low 15psi.
Even when I thin model air I still get a gritty coat When I spray it through my airbrush I tried all types of ratios with the thinner and with some flow aid
What you are experiencing is called "orange peel". The paint is drying before it hits your subject. This is caused by either too much pressure or being too far away with your airbrush. I would first move closer only about 3-4 inches from your subject and then if that doesn't work turn the pressure down. You only need 15-20 psi to spray Vallejo paints.
I wish this video had been around ten years ago when I started airbrushing, it would've saved me a lot of grief! Also, good job on the correct pronunciation of Vallejo, it aggravates the s@*t out of me when people mispronounce that name (it's a proper pronoun. dang it)! Keep up the good work!
abel paoli What do you mean?, The most common way of pronouncing Vallejo is Vah-Lay-Ho and while it’s not the Spanish way of saying it it’s still just as correct as Vah-Yeh-Ho, Adding to the fact that most people will look at you funny if you pronounce it in the spanish way.
useful an helpful vid Andy...thanks mate
Thank you Mark I certainly hope that someone can make some use of it.
Oh a piece of advice to anyone out there thinking about the ball bearing mixer hack, don't use coins. I tried it and killed a few paints from the coins tarnishing and corroding into the paint.
Excellent. I learned a lot. How does Tamiya compare with Vallejo in your opinion? Thanks. Eric
I have a Pasche VL model brush. and Testor Acrylic thinner. how will the Velleo work with those two. and what pressure level.
it's like the lambo gallado is pronounced gaiyardo 😏 you sir are spot on
+rick stevenson Well you can't grow up in Texas and not learn a little bit of Spanish.
+TacticalJackalope touché
Nice tips and demo, I'd say! Gonna start with Vallejo Model and the Air versions as I can get these faster that Tamiya ones. Maybe I'll move forward with Tamiya or Alclad (lacquer) afterwards. Oh trivia - we pronounce the double "L" (or 'el-ye'/'elle' as we call it) as something like the "L" first then the "y" - we are not Spanish/Latin Americans but that is how Spanish is taught in our electives in college. So Vallejo to us is: VAL-YE-HO :D Thanks once again!
Thank you so much for the kind words and I am glad you found the information useful. Having grown up in a border state populated 40% by Latinos and having several European Spaniard's emphasize it as well I can assure you it is pronounced "Va-Yay-Ho" with the accent on the last syllable. Cheers and thanks for watching!
TacticalJackalope
Well anyway, forgot to ask - I read in the Vallejo site's FAQs that you can still thin Model Air paint with their thinner up to 1:3, but being the noob painter myself, I am not quite sure what in the world that ratio means; does it mean 1paint:3thinner or the other way around? What are your thoughts about that? Thanks once again :D
Gimel Tomines No you were right the first time it means 1 part paint to 3 parts thinner but Model Air should spray right out of the bottle without thinning. IF you thin it I would only do so cautiously and one drop at a time.
TacticalJackalope Nice! Thanks again for taking time to respond.
Good video. I got a few large scale figures, a few 1/10 scale and a few 1/4 scale. Be nice if Vallejo would make skin tone colors for airbrushing as such a large scale really should be airbrushed to eliminate any brush strokes over such a large area.
Oh you can shoot anything in an airbrush as long as you have the consistency of milk. I've used latex house paint when I was out of white. When you go to a quick stop or Seven Eleven get a bunch of the plastic coffee stirrer's.
+BennyCFD I have a half dozen or so of the Tamiya stainless steel paint stirring sticks...thanks.
Yah...but you had to pay for them.
BennyCFD so? I have a job and income
Ah...pay for what you can get for free....smart.
+BennyCFD No, I'm not a cheap ass or poor. It is always wise to use the best tool possible and stealing extra stirring sticks is about the dumbest fucking thing I have ever heard of. If you can't handle the $4-5 bucks for some decent stirrers then you my friend have serious problems financially. One more bullshit commit btw and you will be gone forever from my channel.
1) Quick question with Vallejo Surface Primer in a bottle and Vallejo Airbrush Thinner would you recommend adding NO thinner for a 0.5mm needle in the airbrush ?
2) Also say for a Citadel Base Paint McCragge Blue (NOT the air range version) would you recommend a 50/50 ratio with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner for a 0.5mm needle in an airbrush ?
I've never reduced/thinned Vallejo Surface Primer nor would I it sprays beautifully "neat" or straight from the bottle.
I've never used Citadel paint so I can't answer that question.
Well I'm going to do it with a new cheap 0.5mm airbrush / compressor / and Vallejo Surface Primer (grey) on a new space marine right now this second so wish me luck. (psi 20)
Well that's great for a gravity feed well that's great for a graph to feed what if I'm using a siphon feed how much thinner do I use then with the siphon feed bottle VALLEJO paints ...???
you can get ball bearing at hardware store or out of a old door slider
I've heard using ball bearings in Vallejo bottles is a risk. Once you're squeezing the bottle, and the ball falls down into the mouth and blocks it, you can end up popping the nose off your bottle and bursting paint everywhere. I use small hex nuts instead, which won't clog the mouth. 316 stainless (marine grade) so they won't rust and change your paint color.
Great Video! Thanks for the comparison between the Model Air and Model Color.
You keep saying VeeeYayHo. Should be VahYayHo.
I put lead fishing weights in my bottles. You can find those everywhere.
Can u paint on un primed directly on plastic like tamiya
Thanks for the feedback. 45 psi is just what my compressor is set at regardless. I'll try lowering it though. Could you tell me the ratio of water to Vallejo paints for air brushing please? Thanks!
+jammerman28 I would love to only issue I have never used it therefore it would not be appropriate to suggest a ration. I would experiment always using going for the consistency of skim milk.
You could use air gun/ BB gun pellets instead of ball bearing. The .177cal lead once. They usually are cheap and a tin should last quite a while. I don't know if the lead will effect the paint.
I had not considered this but what I had in mind was very small stainless steel washers.
That will work to. In the end it's just mixing paint. There are probably a lot of things one could use. You won't go wrong with washers that's for sure.
Yeah, BBs work, but you use the brass ones for one type of paint, lead for the other (acrylics vs. oil-based paints) but I can't remember which to use with which... :-( This is my half*ss comment... :-)
I had a thought about your ball bearing issue. There are different grades of shot for shot gun reloaders. Did you ever think of going to your local gun dealer and look into getting some shot to use in your paint to mix it.
BB's work great for mixing paints in the bottle.
+lastdollarfilms No so much actually especailly if it is a water based acrylic paint. They will rust and then contaminate the paint also ruining the paint. Stainless steel ball bearings or perhaps a nut I'm afraid is the only way to go.
Steel BB's is what I use. Super cheap. Works great.
Until they rust and ruin the paint. Water based paint needs stainless steel. What's cheap last time I bought some they were like $12 for 200.
@@TacticalJackalope Never had that issue, It takes air for corrosion to happen. When it's in paint and solvent no air can get in. Ask your self why the rattle cans ball doesn't damage the paint? Not too sure your shopping at the right place. BB's should cost.... www.walmart.com/ip/DAISY-2400-COUNT-PRECISIONMAX-BB-BOTTLE/15729970?athcpid=15729970&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVUB&athieid=v0&athstid=CS004&athguid=83eecfa5-11c-172bb28b91ca32&athancid=null&athena=true
Yeah, that's not a thing no eye dropper bottle is air tight plus air gets in when they fill the bottle. I'm glad BB's work for you. To be honest I could give a shit what you use.
@@TacticalJackalope Funny that you give a %$^*$ enough to comment. So you do care..
airbrush 0,2 or 0,3? Thanks!
I'm using alot of Vallejo Game Colors with my airbrush and I'm having trouble with doing fine gradients and such without overthinning the paint which causes splatter.
Should I thin VGC with 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint as a guide line? And I'll have to inncrease the thinner as I decrease the PSI to do the small detailing?
psamtik55 That sounds about right I would agree with that.
I'm having trouble with spraying acrylics. I always get a grainy finish. I've done just about everything I can think of. I've tried more thinner, lower psi, spraying closer. I use a master brand airbrush. Do you think I need a better airbrush? I wouldn't think the airbrush would matter that much. Any information would be helpful. Thanks
Jeffery Barker I went ahead and bought a new airbrush. I bought a badger patriot 105-1. I haven't used it yet. Hope It helps. You make some great videos, a lot of useful info. I will keep adjusting if I still have troubles.
Hey TacticalJackalope, thanks for the demo. Can Tamiya paint thinner be combined with Vallejo 'model paint' in an air brush? And if so, do you know the ratio? I'm using an Iwata Revolution at 45 psi. Any tips or suggestions you have? Thanks
+jammerman28 No it cannot I'm afraid. The Tamiya X20-A thinner is isopropyl alcohol based and is Not compatible with Model Air or Model Color. Vallejo paints can be thinned with tap water or their own thinner that is what I would recommend you use. In addition 45 PSI...?? WAY too high. Vallejo likes low pressure and sprays best around 12-15 psi. Thanks for watching and good luck!
for ball bearings you can use slingshot ammo just a thought
+Black Heart Too expensive you can buy stainless ball bearings for about $8 a hundred
true but I found that stainless steel bbs also work well
regulat ball bearings will eventually rust. there are galvanized ball bearing that are rust free.
John B That's why I recommend 440C stainless ball bearings they are about $12 per hundred on Ebay.
Hi. Can Vallejo airbrush thinner be combined with Vallejo primer for airbrushing? And if so, do you know the ratio? Thanks.
Yes it can. Since their primer can and was intended to be sprayed "neat" i.e. unthinned not very much probably around 10% is all.
Great tips there mate, i use the retarder for my paints as you are so right it drys so very quick, it sucks if you try to wet blend with out it lol
You bet and thanks so much for watching
never mind I have the model air stuff. so I think it will work fine.
Hey. I've got an VEDA W-130A airbrush; expect the trigger stopping thing at the back - i'm doing it manually by opening the back case -
Anyway, i've got this big problem since i've bought this. Even if i loosen the "chuck" all the way down, my trigger has a dead-zone at the full back position and won't pull the needle back completely. For example; if i pull the trigger back by hand ~%80-85, there's still a little null zone that trigger wont pull further; and i can fully open the nozzle by pulling the needle with my hand; so that it open the paint hole %100 i guess. It's actually irritating, because even if properly thinned, M.Color's wont spray very well with the full trigger, but if i pull back by hand fully (or just unscrew the needle and pull it all the way back) it sprays flawlessly..
What should i do for that ?
Note that, i'm using 0.2mm needle/nozzle with the default 0.3 needle and nozzle caps, as i'm a Vallejo paint user and as you know, m.colors are thick paints.
Here's a video of me, trying to explain the situation..
Trigger issue of WD-130
I am sorry I am not familiar with this brush but I am not a fan of the cheap Chinese stuff. I would recommend you buy a name brand quality product. i.e. Badger or Paasche for example.
Great tip, Andy, and just in time for me because I am planning on doing some practice with the Vallejo model colors to spray on my little SPAD...glad I saw this in time to know to thin it down more so than others....also, speaking of "pronunciation", how about "Tamiya"? Some say, Ta-me-ah, and others say, Ta-my-ah...does anyone know? Hell, I even heard someone say it as tam-e-ah... :-)
I don't know are there any Japanese folks in the audience?
Hai ga imasu...(Yes there are...) :-)
As I have a lot of these colours, this was exactly the info I needed to know. O also saw a video using windex for Vallejo Hobby Colors and Panzer Aces. What's the deal on that? Looked liked ot worked well. But looks can be deceiving.
Gary Armstrong If you smell the the Vallejo thinner it is definitely ammonia based so using windex would seem possible. I just don't have time to experiment so I will always use the manufacturer's product.
I've been a fan of Model Master for decades and they're going away. I deed to put a falt coat on a model, I have Vallejo Mat Acrylic Varnish 26.518 as well as air brush thinner 71.361. Straight or thinned it beads up on my surfaces even after wiping down with 91% rubbing alcohol. Any clues, I've lived with clogging needles before no biggie. HELP, been duilding for years I've never had issues like this. VLS, Thayer Chandler, Iwata. All the same results.
very informative ,may I ask what size needle for the demo ? I know it can make a big difference as well...thanks
Andy X I was using a Badger Patriot 105 which comes equipped with a .5 mm needle.
ok thanks , I'm running a 3.2 needle so do you think it should be thinned more ?that's the largest needle I know of for my AB ..thanks in advance for the tips !
Andy X No I don't think you should have to thin it down more. There are plenty of people that use even smaller needles that don't have any problems. No worries thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
Ive found that Steel 4.5mm BB's work great for dropping into the little bottles to mix the paint.
That has been suggested before. However, you might want to consider that since acrylic paints are typically water based(not always) these BB's will rust and ruin the paint. I suggest 1/4" stainless steel ball bearings they can be had on Ebay for about $12 per 100.
ball bearings are available on Amazon
If ball bearings are hard to find - BBs for an air rifle work pretty well and in the US are plentiful and cheap.
casualmayhem Ball bearings are not hard to find. In addition you absolutely do NOT want to use BB's in an acrylic paint. Most acrylic paints are water based and BB's are mild steel which means they WILL corrode and destroy the paint. www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-inch-Diameter-Stainless-Steel-440C-G16-Bearing-Balls-/400280238646?hash=item5d328fba36
How much Flow-Aid are you putting in the Model Air? Is it just a drop in the AB cup?
chops1sc It depends on the amount of paint but somewhere in the neighborhood of 1-3 drops and no more.
I would suggest marine grade ball bearings, if you don’t want to destroy your paints over time.
Wow.....fantastic video, as always. I get withdrawal symptons if youve not done a video in a day of two. I need to get out more! You say that Model Air is thinner than Model Colour, but have you had to use a retarder on the Model Air? Nice idea to compare the two - do you prefer Vallejo rather than Tamiya acrylics? I use Tamiya as they are a lot cheaper, in the UK at least, and have used Model Air Russian green one time, and it turned out nice. Question about air pressure. As you know, I am just learning about airbrushing and thats why I love your videos, buu when you mention 12psi, I presume you turn on the compressor, press the trigger and then set the air pressure when its blowing out air, or do you set it to 12 without pressing the trigger and use it like that?
How are you gonna get the washers/ball bearings in the Model Air bottle?
Hi Stevie, no you do not Need to use the drying retarder for either but in long paint sessions it can help reduce nozzle / needle clogging which is of course very handy. No, in all honesty I prefer Tamiya but their range of colors is not as extensive. I find Tamiya color very forgiving on thinning and it sprays as smooth as glass. I like the Vallejo as well but for Luftwaffe colors and some of the Panzer aces range they are the only game in town(more or less) and they are cheaper than Lifecolor which is a superb product as well. Yes, I set the pressure after my compressor has filled the tank initially. Every brush will be different my Badger likes 12-15 psi and my Tamiya/Iwata's like 15-20. When I spray base coats or varnish I will be at 15-20 depending on how thick the medium is and when doing finer detail or narrow camo schemes I will spray at around 10-12 psi.
Ah.....ok. I only have a cheapie compressor without a tank.
Stevie my compressor only cost $79.96 in U.S. dollars which would only be about 40 quid. You should be able to find something similar in the U.K. Here is the exact one I purchased and btw Coen has this one as well.
www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Airbrush-Compressor-110-120V-HoseFor/dp/B009S3AP1O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395967078&sr=8-4&keywords=airbrush+compressor+w%2F+tank
Stevie Gibson The dropper lid prys right off. Look for the seam underneath the dropper you can use your finger nail or a pocket knife to pry it off.
Thank you
Thanks. How about the Model Color's metallics ? Do you use them by any means ?
Yes I have the Model Color metallic set and have used them. I believe they are supposed to be thinned with an alcohol based product but I have had success using the "old" Vallejo thinner which is milky white.
TacticalJackalope Hmm, i thought the alcohol as well :) I also have the old (white) thinner, as my local hobby shop doesnt have the new version. What was your ratios ?
I dont quite understand how do you clean the nozzle? Maybe due to not being a native speaker Im not entirely sure what the nozzle is. Isnt the nozzle the hole where the air comes out? How do you clean that without removng the needle? are you just pulling it back? Wouldnt it make sense to clean the needle as well ?
+cryionic I keep a Q-Tip(cotton bud) wet with airbrush cleaner to "wipe" the excess and dried paint from the tip of the airbrush.
If you don't mind me asking, have you ever used the Liquitex Airbrush Medium? That's what I've been using to thin down my vallejo game color paints. I don't think a 1 to 1 ratio is low enough though. I use iwata eclipse hp-cs with the .35 tip. It clogs pretty bad with the game color range. So it has to be thinned a whole lot.
To answer your question no I have not. The clogging is not entirely the thinning ratio it has to do with the incredibly fast drying time of Vallejo paint especially with model air. I use Liquitex Flow Aid to break the surface tension which helps but since I have made this video my preferred paints are now Tamiya Color they spray perfectly and are very forgiving when it comes to a thinning them. I still use Vallejo paint just not to the extent I used to. I ALWAYS use the manufacturers thinner and in the case of Vallejo it is readily available and inexpensive. Thank you so much for taking the time to watch and comment I am very grateful.
TacticalJackalope No problem buddy, it was a good video. keep up the good work. I might have to try out the Tamiya. How are the colors for the line? similar to game colors brighter pallet or like the model colors more muted pallet?
There's a lot of factors that go into thinning but with VMC and VGC and the Liquitex airbrush medium I usually use 5:1 medium to paint, some of my model color paints seem tremendously thicker (my Black grey which I love as an example) and I have to use closer to 10:1. For the Liquitex airbrush medium I recommend you transfer it to a dropper bottle too.
Great vid very helpful for someone just about to start airbrushing!
Do you recommend using a respirator during painting with an airbrush using the model air paints?
They are water based and non toxic and probably you will not spray them randomly all over your face so no
I got my ball bearings from eBay 250 of then cheap and 60ml dropper bottles
Thanks for making this vid, quite helpful as i'm looking into what paints to get. Just a couple of questions:
1. What size needle do you actually have in your airbrush (0.5mm?), and if someone were using an airbrush with a needle smaller than that, would you still recommend the Vallejo products due to the clogging etc.?
2. I'm just wondering about the model air range, is it just the same as model color but they have pre-mixed in the thinner at the factory? I ask because (at least where I am) a bottle of vallejo air or color cost the same, for the same 17mm bottle. Or have they altered the paints in other ways, finer pigment etc?
+hagakure81 Vallejo explains it better than I here is the link to their site(www.acrylicosvallejo.com/model-paints) but no there is more difference than that. Yes you can use a smaller needle without issues. Its not clogging per se it dries on the tip because acrylics dry so fast. Some of their new airbrush flow improver will do wonders for you.
what the different between AV flow improver and medium retarder?
Nice video. I thin about the same way. Same product. Today I was getting some grainy effects along the edges of my highlights using VMC. I'm spaying around 25-30 PSI. Could then high PSI be the reason?
Could be I don't shoot at any where near that pressure.
To high? Or too low?
Too high
I usually spray 15-20 psi
Hmm, maybe 50/50 isn't thin enough for a .3. I use a Badger Krome
if you mix before you place into the cup, it sprays better..
Cheers and take care!
I use pellets instead of ball bearings. Always available and way cheaper :)
+Modellours Workshop Ball bearings are only about $10 for a 100
TacticalJackalope I couldn't find any :)
+Modellours Workshop No problem let me provide you some links; www.ebay.com/itm/100-1-4-Inch-G25-Precision-420-Stainless-Steel-Bearing-Balls-/301564213850?hash=item4636a0ba5a:g:5v4AAOxydB1ShNpI
The shipping is free if you live in the U.S. I do not know what it is to Spain. There are many more listing like this on Ebay. 1/4" is about 6.35mm.
Can i use Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics together ? Like, can i prime with Vallejo and paint Tamiya over it ? Because i'm sick of this Vallejo's cloggings. Even with the 1:1 thinned tap water, it sprays out but clogs quickly, or just fades away after 4-5 sec of spraying..
Slammer Yes that would work just fine. Vallejo is somewhat pressure sensitive an increase on your regulator to say 20 psi would help. Liquitex makes a product called "Flow Aid" that works quite well it breaks the surface tension of the paint but I would only use a drop or two in the paint cup.
TacticalJackalope today i ve found that windex works better than all of them. I live in a hot country in turkey with a heavy humdity. Maybe its another reason ffor quick drying
TacticalJackalope another fact is, i just dont want to use separate colors for ab and brushing. For ab, tamiya is the best way to go, but they cant be used with brush. Its not an economical way to go besides the both paints arent compatible with each other as far as i know
They are both acrylics but Tamiya Color is alcohol based. Tamiya Color can be thinned for brush painting I use it all the time. It doesn't take much X20 I thin it about 4:1
TacticalJackalope You mean X20A ? Is it same with the good old IPA ? And, is the ratio 4 paints to 1 thinner ?
Amazon sell ball bearings
Do you ever have to take the tip off and clean the inside Andy?
+Gary Armstrong I will do a complete strip down and clean an airbrush after I have used it 4-5 times. If that is what you were asking.
+TacticalJackalope No...I meant taking the tip off if the clog proves too stubborn. Clean it out from the other end. And yes...I clean the a/b every time!
Gary Armstrong Oh, ok. No, I don't remove the tip. In most applications I am using my Patriot and the tip is exposed. I simply have a Q-tip nearby moistened with some cleaner or thinner to remove the residue.
Well the only problem I have is I do not have an airbrush with gravity feed my airbrush is the regular badger that's not gravity feed and you did not state which thinner to use for the model air I know I put that in my paintball and it's just sits there on the bottom I have to put dinner or some kind of thinner in my bottle and mix it to start spraying so I need to know which thinner to use for that paint to put in the bottle to keep it from clogging up my airbrush you showed several thinners,but did not use any you mainly talked about your air brush cleaner and, didn't demonstrate any of the other thinners or, which one was the best to use
EMMETT ROWE The video was pretty clear actually. You don't need to thin model air it's ready to go from the bottle. If you thin any vallejo paint I recommend you use their thinner. Water based acrylics will clog it's unavoidable they make a product called Airbrush Flow Improver which they did not when I made this video almost 4 years ago.
TacticalJackalope will that I understand but that's was a gravity feed I have a siphon feed badger so how much of the vallejo should I put in the bottle because that's a big bottle with a long siphon tube..so I haven't to add thinner to half fill the bottle to be able to start spraying...so,what do you recommend that i can do ??
your so right the (LL) is pronounced as a (y) PURA VIDA amigo
If you listen closely, he's pronouncing it "viejo": old. But, what the hey.
In case you're still looking for ball bearings to put in your bottles (to get the paint to mix easier), Amazon has 100 for $6.50: smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IK9M4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1