Thank you... your video was extremely helpful. While replacing the pulley, we found the tensioner housing was broken. So that got replaced too... all in all about $120 in parts, 4 hours and 12 new curse words added to the vocabulary.
thank you for taking time to teach. I really do appreciate this content. also I have been waiting for someone to use a laser pointer to actually identify locations under the hood etc. it really makes the difference.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It made it possible for me to replace my alternator. On 12/1/17, I was quoted $78 for the ADP and $34 for a hex 1/2 drive kit from Advance Auto. For $180 I bought a new alternator. If the A/C compressor bracket is removed (3 13MM Screws with easy access) the alternator will come out. 6 hours total for my R & R. Thanks again, great video.
Just bought a 1.8 caliber , my work thought the motor was boned but I saw this video, sure enough I bought it for 500$ and put the pulley on and it's dead quiet, it only has 120000 km, I did it in my shop, took about 1 .5 hours , thank you
Thanks for this video! My buddy and I did this job last night on my 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT. It only took us 4 hours though ;) Other tips I would suggest is to do the oil change while doing this job. The oil filter made this job slightly more difficult while removing the AC compressor. Also, it probably wouldn't hurt to replace the idler pulley since you have to remove it anyways. Last part of my comment, I hope you replaced your tires since you made this video, because your belt is showing. In all seriousness, I tremendously appreciate this "how to" video!
+Chris Michaud You're most welcome. Good eye! Those tires were changed immediately after I changed out the ADP. I didn't notice how bad those tires were until the ADP went out.
Thats a lot for this video. It took me around 6 hours to get everything done on a 2007 Caliber R/T. The R/T has a 2.4L engine leaving less working room that the car you show in your video. I've done a lot of work on my Caliber, but this job was the most frustating do to the confined working space. It is possible to not remove the bottom bolt on the alternator. The bottom bolt actually drops in to a U-channel to form a type of hanger. I left the bolt in, got it in to the channel, then rotated the alternator (pivoting on the bottom bolt) to get it in to position for the top bolt. I used a screwdriver to get the hole lined-up, then threaded in the top bolt. My old pulley was in really rough shape, and did not come-out in one piece. I wasted probably 45 minutes trying to get the new pulley thread-on, not realizing that a collar from the old pully was still on the alternator shaft. Thanks again
Hi, thank you for this video. Saved me 1000+. I was able to shimmy the alt out as well, and thanks to you, I was able to do the complete repair in less than 3hrs.
Thanks! Your video was perfect! With 94K on the vehicle, I replaced both the upper and lower idler (15mm wrench) and the tensioner (two 13mm bolts with a deep socket) as well as the belt while I was in there. Note: Do the tensioner AFTER you move the A/C compressor and alternator out of the way, otherwise you will not have space to remove it after it is unbolted.
You mentioned about the 13mm bolt at the top being difficult. The easy way thanks to you warning me about this is put the 16mm bolt in the bottom but dont tighten it then lift the alternator up almost into position right where the 13mm looks like it will fit but WONT then get a long punch and hit down on the head of the lower 16mm bolt and the alternator drops right into place. Make sure the surfaces are clean as stated in this excellent video and use a lubricant to aid in the process. Thanks for the heads up on this part of the job. Your entire video was very well done!!!
Thanks, I did mine today and I got mine out because I took the extra three bolts that held the bracket to the AC compressor. Glad you put the wrench and socket sizes and the tip about 5/8 made it easier. I got that top bolt in no problem. My problem was getting that decoupler off!!!! I got a nut and bolt and welded the nut to the bolt the first time it broke the nut in half, second I found a thicker nut, and finally got it off. Oh, alternator plug was stuck on too. Cool video.
I just finished this repaid yesterday. I am not even close to an amateur level mechanic and this video made it possible for me to tackle this job. You mentioned it was difficult to get the cap off of the pulley and since having the new one (without the cap on yet) I knew I had the space to just poke a hole in the old one and pull it off with needle-nose pliers and that worked great. Also, I didn't have problems replacing the top 13mm alternator bolt in. Just make sure to get the alternator back in the bracket and from under the car, line up the holes (from alternator to connection to engine.) Once you get it started, then use a socket wrench to tighten from above. NOTES: I tried to remove pulley from the alternator with just the 17mm Hex socket and pliers/vice-grips. This was not possible. My next door neighbor had an impact wrench and it came off and went back on just as easily as you show in the video. Buy one, borrow one, but get one! The video was spot on and was the only reason I attempted this repair. The car purrs like a kitten! Thanks for taking the time to put it together. Also, to answer a posters question below, my car did not throw any codes or dummy lights on. It just made the noise.
+Chris Felker Thank you so much for the nice comments!! I'm glad the video helped and you were able to complete the repair. You are right. An impact wrench is a must have for this project.
Thanks man i was pretty worried found this video got it replaced and haven't had any problems man thanks for the time you spent on this video been a great help.
Thanks for the video. I got this done in just a few hours and with an extra set of hands from above that top bolt went right in. I did do an oil change so that the oil filter would be out of the way based on a comment below. Moving the washer / coolant reservoirs proved useful as well.
The top bolt for the alternator, I spent five minutes trying to get it in. Then, I tapperd the bolt. No problem. start to finish, 3:15 hours to get my car back on the road. I did appreciate your video for the tool sizes though. Thanks
I just finished the repair. Big thanks to you man. It took me about 7 hours and the car runs better than ever. I almost gave up when i took the shield of, theres so little space to work. Did exactly as you showed, and voila. Funny thing is the adp seem to be ok when i took the belt of, you cant see the damage until you take it off. It was completely shattered on the other side. The car amazingly quiet now, thank you so much!!!
it is painful... Thanks Dodge! Why did they put the alternator at the bottom? usually it is up the top and it takes 1-2 h to do this job drinking beer at the same time
I ended up replacing my timing chain and tensioner and put it all back together and it sounded worse i was freaking out. Then I seen this video and your car sounded just like mine... it is a pain in the ASS to replace for sure... but now I finally nailed the noise down!!
i just replaced my decoupler pulley on my 2012 chrysler 200 and engine noise is gone. before i did it i noticed my gas mileage had gone down when the noise started. does the coupley effect gas mileage. ive read it does but cant get a straight answer. thanks
Just got done doing this the other day. Getting everything off wasn’t the hard part. It was exactly like you said the top alternator 13mm was a byotch. Did like you said took out the bottom bolt to alternator and had to lube the heck out of the bottom placement. That top bolt was machined to the precise nanoinch. It took me 45 minutes to get on. Then had a problem with the top AC bolt. Get the other 2 bolts started then get that bolt in. 25 minutes for that one. I decided to replace belt also. Either my new belt was an inch to short or old one was stretched significantly cause it was a byotch to put on. Got everything back on and rechecked EVERYTHING. Started car no more noise. This is the cars 3rd decoupler.
Tikingbomb thank you everybody saying that but this just happens my ac compressor clutch popped off and mines was making the same noise before that happend
Thank you!!!!!! Man this just happened to my 2010 caliber thought it was my engine but I knew the noise was coming from a pully, it’s just the rattling noise freak me out.
I hear the same noise but after a while of driving, the battery light come on. Was that the case with your car? I assume I would probably just need to replace the whole alternator. Was hearing that noise for some time and today when I was on my way to work, it got worse and the battery light come on after about 5 minutes of driving. I turn it off and back on and the battery light come on again
Appreciate the video...I have a 2010 Dodge caliber and I did everything you said. noise went away and is purring now. However, I can't get the car to go over 10 mph? Any suggestions on what the problem may be? It was running noisily up until I fixed the alternator issue?
I am doing one on a 2.4 avenger. And I have found it easier to drop the intake. Take 30 mins to take off the intake then you don't have to drop the compressor. You can the have the alternator off in 45min.
Will this fix my alternator it's making that sound I thought it was my pulleys went it snapped a belt on i-40 I replaced all the idler pulleys and the noise was still thier will doing this change fix the alternator and make it work again please let me know
You just never know. It could last 6 months or 6 years. However, this is a pretty cheap fix. So far, the alternator on this car is still working great almost 2 years later.
The best method to insert the upper alternator bracket is to take a ball pien hammer and tap the bracket washer from the inside with the alternator rested on a block of wood for support, lay the opposite end you will tap a few times and that's it, boom done. For me there pain was the compressor bolts, what a nightmare
Hey man , awesome vid. Mine keeps dying like the alt is not working. Would that pulley that is supposed to disengage make it so that it would not charge the bat? Or how could you find out if the alt is bad
HI? it`s me again! is it possible to unscrew it without an impact wrench? Thanks I have the same sound but I`m not sure that it is an alternator pulley or the power steering pump, actually, I have got an idea with your video, I probably can pop out that plastic cap and take a look with a mirror how it looks like before unscrewing everything and... that worn tire 2:52 scared me) Yea, no tools - no party
+April Mcclennon Yes and I am in a garage so the echo is louder. The noise on the ADP is really bad when you rev the engine. I should have revved up the engine more so you could hear the noise was completely gone. Still driving it several months later and working great.
took me two days to do that job had to replace the fill alt but got it done to put on the belt it easier to put on last the tinsor pully tyres the alt but it didn't go
Hello good afternoon. I wonder if you have some video where you can review the entire system of air conditioning (A / C). Caliber 2.0 SXT 2010. I Greetings from Chile.
As it was going the alt.did charge but it got really bad then the charging light came on put a meter on the battery when running only read 10.4 volts but that thing was really bat
Not sure but from looking at the bearings I don't think it would have lasted another 50-100 miles. The grinding sound was very loud which was not that apparent from the video. I would say when I first heard the sound until I changed it was about 3000 miles.
Thank you. Mine has been going on for about 2-3 months. It didn't get loud at first but gradually. Right now I can't afford what they want to charge me to fix it. $500.00 I wish I knew someone here, where I live, who could do it and not charge me so much.
Right at the beginning, I start the car so you can hear the noise. However, it is in a garage and echos. It really sounds like you have marbles in your engine.
What a stupid place for an alternator !!! I'm about to do this. Mine is clacking and banging. Oh and thanks dodge for something on my alternator I don't need.
Can anyone tell me some torque specs. Decoupler, alternator, etc, I do not have any impact driver to get decoupler on or off but can muscle it off. My fear is not getting the decoupler tight enough.
Poweruse: yup got a new tool. Cordless Earthquake xt 1/2 inch impact. That did the trick. Needed a new one anyway. Didn’t care about the torque specs. Just got the bolts tightened the best i could considering the cramp location.
Mine is making a similar sound and when I’m at a drive thru it sounds extra loud lol my battery light came on the same time it started making all that noise
I have the same problem but I don't have anyone to help me with the repair. Can a woman do this by herself? Also, what wire behind the alternator are you talking about? I didn't see it in the video.
Yes. However, you must have an impact wrench and air compressor to complete this job. You can also buy the part and have a mechanic put it on for you which would be much less expensive.
Can I find you on Facebook? That would be great so I can talk to you and perhaps you can walk me through this job. I can't afford to pay $400-500 to have it fixed.
Shal'aam Aleichem Why can't I EVER get a straight answer from the freaking internet anymore? I type in 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT 2.0 lit eng Fuel filter location an instead of getting a straight answer telling me where the hell the damn thing is located, I'm directed to EVERYTHING EXCEPT what the hell I'm looking for!!!!!! Does ANYONE know where the hell the fuel filter is located on a 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT with a 2.0 lit end Duel VVT? Baruch haba b'shem YaHuah AAPiY MiKaEl
This car is a pain in the butt,I replaced the alternator with the new Decoupler, it's better to replace the alternator because if you just replace the Decouple and a month later the alternator go's out you will have to do it again.
+Tamara Watson It is supposed to be a closed system and does not require any additional fluid. I was told to take it to an authorized dealer to have the fluid level checked.
i just replaced my decoupler pulley on my 2012 chrysler 200 and engine noise is gone. before i did it i noticed my gas mileage had gone down when the noise started. does the coupley effect gas mileage. ive read it does but cant get a straight answer. thanks.
![[Part 1] รักมาไม่ทันตั้งตัว❤ หนุ่มสาวโสดถูกจับมาแต่งงานกันกะทันหัน แถมเธอยังเป็นหัวหน้าของเขา?!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y2pOOMkuFI0/mqdefault.jpg)
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Thank you... your video was extremely helpful. While replacing the pulley, we found the tensioner housing was broken. So that got replaced too... all in all about $120 in parts, 4 hours and 12 new curse words added to the vocabulary.
thank you for taking time to teach. I really do appreciate this content. also I have been waiting for someone to use a laser pointer to actually identify locations under the hood etc. it really makes the difference.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. It made it possible for me to replace my alternator. On 12/1/17, I was quoted $78 for the ADP and $34 for a hex 1/2 drive kit from Advance Auto. For $180 I bought a new alternator. If the A/C compressor bracket is removed (3 13MM Screws with easy access) the alternator will come out. 6 hours total for my R & R. Thanks again, great video.
Thanks. glad it helped.
Just bought a 1.8 caliber , my work thought the motor was boned but I saw this video, sure enough I bought it for 500$ and put the pulley on and it's dead quiet, it only has 120000 km, I did it in my shop, took about 1 .5 hours , thank you
That is awesome!!
Thanks for this video! My buddy and I did this job last night on my 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT. It only took us 4 hours though ;) Other tips I would suggest is to do the oil change while doing this job. The oil filter made this job slightly more difficult while removing the AC compressor. Also, it probably wouldn't hurt to replace the idler pulley since you have to remove it anyways. Last part of my comment, I hope you replaced your tires since you made this video, because your belt is showing. In all seriousness, I tremendously appreciate this "how to" video!
+Chris Michaud You're most welcome. Good eye! Those tires were changed immediately after I changed out the ADP. I didn't notice how bad those tires were until the ADP went out.
Thats a lot for this video. It took me around 6 hours to get everything done on a 2007 Caliber R/T. The R/T has a 2.4L engine leaving less working room that the car you show in your video. I've done a lot of work on my Caliber, but this job was the most frustating do to the confined working space.
It is possible to not remove the bottom bolt on the alternator. The bottom bolt actually drops in to a U-channel to form a type of hanger. I left the bolt in, got it in to the channel, then rotated the alternator (pivoting on the bottom bolt) to get it in to position for the top bolt. I used a screwdriver to get the hole lined-up, then threaded in the top bolt.
My old pulley was in really rough shape, and did not come-out in one piece. I wasted probably 45 minutes trying to get the new pulley thread-on, not realizing that a collar from the old pully was still on the alternator shaft.
Thanks again
Hi, thank you for this video. Saved me 1000+. I was able to shimmy the alt out as well, and thanks to you, I was able to do the complete repair in less than 3hrs.
this is the most informed video that I have ever brought up on TH-cam ! Thankyou for your help!
Thanks! Your video was perfect! With 94K on the vehicle, I replaced both the upper and lower idler (15mm wrench) and the tensioner (two 13mm bolts with a deep socket) as well as the belt while I was in there. Note: Do the tensioner AFTER you move the A/C compressor and alternator out of the way, otherwise you will not have space to remove it after it is unbolted.
You mentioned about the 13mm bolt at the top being difficult. The easy way thanks to you warning me about this is put the 16mm bolt in the bottom but dont tighten it then lift the alternator up almost into position right where the 13mm looks like it will fit but WONT then get a long punch and hit down on the head of the lower 16mm bolt and the alternator drops right into place. Make sure the surfaces are clean as stated in this excellent video and use a lubricant to aid in the process. Thanks for the heads up on this part of the job. Your entire video was very well done!!!
+ricter1 Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video, very useful. Took me 2 hours total. My 07 Caliber has never sounded so quiet!
I cant wait to fix mine......glad to know my car will be extremely quiet
Thanks, I did mine today and I got mine out because I took the extra three bolts that held the bracket to the AC compressor. Glad you put the wrench and socket sizes and the tip about 5/8 made it easier. I got that top bolt in no problem. My problem was getting that decoupler off!!!! I got a nut and bolt and welded the nut to the bolt the first time it broke the nut in half, second I found a thicker nut, and finally got it off. Oh, alternator plug was stuck on too. Cool video.
I just finished this repaid yesterday. I am not even close to an amateur level mechanic and this video made it possible for me to tackle this job. You mentioned it was difficult to get the cap off of the pulley and since having the new one (without the cap on yet) I knew I had the space to just poke a hole in the old one and pull it off with needle-nose pliers and that worked great. Also, I didn't have problems replacing the top 13mm alternator bolt in. Just make sure to get the alternator back in the bracket and from under the car, line up the holes (from alternator to connection to engine.) Once you get it started, then use a socket wrench to tighten from above. NOTES: I tried to remove pulley from the alternator with just the 17mm Hex socket and pliers/vice-grips. This was not possible. My next door neighbor had an impact wrench and it came off and went back on just as easily as you show in the video. Buy one, borrow one, but get one! The video was spot on and was the only reason I attempted this repair. The car purrs like a kitten! Thanks for taking the time to put it together. Also, to answer a posters question below, my car did not throw any codes or dummy lights on. It just made the noise.
+Chris Felker Thank you so much for the nice comments!! I'm glad the video helped and you were able to complete the repair. You are right. An impact wrench is a must have for this project.
Just wondering how the impact works when the pully free wheels? Thanks I’m the middle of changing now
Thanks man i was pretty worried found this video got it replaced and haven't had any problems man thanks for the time you spent on this video been a great help.
+Scully hobnob Thank you so much. I really appreciate that. Glad you got it fixed!
Thanks for the video. I got this done in just a few hours and with an extra set of hands from above that top bolt went right in. I did do an oil change so that the oil filter would be out of the way based on a comment below. Moving the washer / coolant reservoirs proved useful as well.
The top bolt for the alternator, I spent five minutes trying to get it in. Then, I tapperd the bolt. No problem. start to finish, 3:15 hours to get my car back on the road.
I did appreciate your video for the tool sizes though. Thanks
your video helped out a lot, was able to complete all the repairs in around 6 hours, and saved a small fortune... thanks a bunch!
That is great!
I just finished the repair. Big thanks to you man. It took me about 7 hours and the car runs better than ever.
I almost gave up when i took the shield of, theres so little space to work. Did exactly as you showed, and voila.
Funny thing is the adp seem to be ok when i took the belt of, you cant see the damage until you take it off. It was completely shattered on the other side. The car amazingly quiet now, thank you so much!!!
it is painful... Thanks Dodge! Why did they put the alternator at the bottom? usually it is up the top and it takes 1-2 h to do this job drinking beer at the same time
I ended up replacing my timing chain and tensioner and put it all back together and it sounded worse i was freaking out. Then I seen this video and your car sounded just like mine... it is a pain in the ASS to replace for sure... but now I finally nailed the noise down!!
thanks for taking the time to make this easier for us !
edu cervantes You're welcome. Glad it helped. Thanks!
Getting ready to work on a 2010 Dodge Caliber. This helps a ton. Thanks.
I know this is a old video but you show everything great job
i just replaced my decoupler pulley on my 2012 chrysler 200 and engine noise is gone. before i did it i noticed my gas mileage had gone down when the noise started. does the coupley effect gas mileage. ive read it does but cant get a straight answer. thanks
I have a bad rattle as well so it’s not the power steering? So is it better changing out the alternator too
I love this guy. Thank you. This is exactly my problem. I was just going to buy a 200 dollar alternator
Your a life saver I was so mad I thought I had bought a bad engine.
You're most welcome. Glad the video helped.
Wow! I was gonna go to Firestone and pay them $400 to replace my alternator. Thanks for saving me from that!!!
You're most welcome!
Oh my god I'm about to pay 450
Amazing video. Thanks so much for taking the time to create this for all of us who have this issue.
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate that!
Just got done doing this the other day. Getting everything off wasn’t the hard part. It was exactly like you said the top alternator 13mm was a byotch. Did like you said took out the bottom bolt to alternator and had to lube the heck out of the bottom placement. That top bolt was machined to the precise nanoinch. It took me 45 minutes to get on. Then had a problem with the top AC bolt. Get the other 2 bolts started then get that bolt in. 25 minutes for that one. I decided to replace belt also. Either my new belt was an inch to short or old one was stretched significantly cause it was a byotch to put on. Got everything back on and rechecked EVERYTHING. Started car no more noise. This is the cars 3rd decoupler.
Those bolts were insane. Thanks for watching. Glad it worked out.
Nice video after watching took me 1+1/2 hour to get mind done.
Repair successfully completed! Thanks a million dude!
That's awesome!!
Thanks for the video i didnt need to repair my alternator i needed to repair my compressor thanks great video.
Tikingbomb thank you everybody saying that but this just happens my ac compressor clutch popped off and mines was making the same noise before that happend
Thank you!!!!!! Man this just happened to my 2010 caliber thought it was my engine but I knew the noise was coming from a pully, it’s just the rattling noise freak me out.
Going through this right now
I hear the same noise but after a while of driving, the battery light come on. Was that the case with your car? I assume I would probably just need to replace the whole alternator. Was hearing that noise for some time and today when I was on my way to work, it got worse and the battery light come on after about 5 minutes of driving. I turn it off and back on and the battery light come on again
If you get a new alternator, does it come with the decouple pully?
great video! that car really needs a r/f tire
Appreciate the video...I have a 2010 Dodge caliber and I did everything you said. noise went away and is purring now. However, I can't get the car to go over 10 mph? Any suggestions on what the problem may be? It was running noisily up until I fixed the alternator issue?
That sounds unrelated. Not sure what that could be.
Thanks, it's good. I have a question: What is the name of the black tool? What are your specifications? Thank you very much for the information.
+Oscar Hernandez It is a 17 mm Hex Impact Socket. You can buy them individually online. You don't need to buy a whole set.
I am doing one on a 2.4 avenger. And I have found it easier to drop the intake. Take 30 mins to take off the intake then you don't have to drop the compressor. You can the have the alternator off in 45min.
Will this fix my alternator it's making that sound I thought it was my pulleys went it snapped a belt on i-40 I replaced all the idler pulleys and the noise was still thier will doing this change fix the alternator and make it work again please let me know
What are the torque specifications for the alternator thank you
My belt broke, and I'm assuming it's something binding, that broke the belt. Might have to to rent a impact wrench. Thanks.
Im going to do this lovely job on saturday. Thank you for the video, nice job.
With the ADP Needing replaced did your battery indicator light come on?
+Alan Blankenship No, the only indicator was the bearing noise on the ADP.
My Caliber SRT4 is making a really loud noise and the battery light came on. Could it be that its ADP is just gone.
So mine has been doing the same. Now my battery light turned on. And today wouldn’t start. Have you had any more issues ?
I changed the alternator and the issue was gone. It could be the same with yours.
I have a 09 jeep patriot and it is making this noise, is this going to hold up or should I just replace the whole alternator?
You just never know. It could last 6 months or 6 years. However, this is a pretty cheap fix. So far, the alternator on this car is still working great almost 2 years later.
Just like to thank you you made. The job easier then it would have been .need to ask did it shoot metal shavings into ur alti.
You're welcome! No, the metal shavings stayed contained inside the ADP.
The best method to insert the upper alternator bracket is to take a ball pien hammer and tap the bracket washer from the inside with the alternator rested on a block of wood for support, lay the opposite end you will tap a few times and that's it, boom done.
For me there pain was the compressor bolts, what a nightmare
You cant get the alternator out? I got mine out with no problems, same car.
Hey man , awesome vid. Mine keeps dying like the alt is not working. Would that pulley that is supposed to disengage make it so that it would not charge the bat? Or how could you find out if the alt is bad
That is possible. The only way to know for sure is to take the alternator to a repair shop and have it load tested.
Crankshaft sensor mines did same but is now fixed 7$ put it on myself
is this why my caliber sounds like a diesel? I was going to change altinator tommorw but I just change that piece on it? thanks in advance
+Twerky Twerk If it has a bad knocking noise then it could be that pulley.
HI? it`s me again! is it possible to unscrew it without an impact wrench? Thanks
I have the same sound but I`m not sure that it is an alternator pulley or the power steering pump, actually, I have got an idea with your video, I probably can pop out that plastic cap and take a look with a mirror how it looks like before unscrewing everything
and... that worn tire 2:52 scared me) Yea, no tools - no party
it still sounds, loud is that just because the hood is up ?
+April Mcclennon Yes and I am in a garage so the echo is louder. The noise on the ADP is really bad when you rev the engine. I should have revved up the engine more so you could hear the noise was completely gone. Still driving it several months later and working great.
Ty so much dude yr awesome
took me two days to do that job had to replace the fill alt but got it done to put on the belt it easier to put on last the tinsor pully tyres the alt but it didn't go
Looks like the easiest way to do anything with the belt system is to just take the entire engine out! What was Dodge thinking with these?
What if u jump it off and when you take the cable off and it goes dead
Hello good afternoon. I wonder if you have some video where you can review the entire system of air conditioning (A / C). Caliber 2.0 SXT 2010. I Greetings from Chile.
Unfortunately, I do not. Thanks for watching.
thank you for your videos, they are very useful. Greetings from La Serena, Chile
Would the adp went bad would that stop the alt.to stop charging?
if it went out completely, yes. However, as it goes out the alternator should still charge.
As it was going the alt.did charge but it got really bad then the charging light came on put a meter on the battery when running only read 10.4 volts but that thing was really bat
How long can the car run before it gets to the point of being unsafe?
Not sure but from looking at the bearings I don't think it would have lasted another 50-100 miles. The grinding sound was very loud which was not that apparent from the video. I would say when I first heard the sound until I changed it was about 3000 miles.
Thank you. Mine has been going on for about 2-3 months. It didn't get loud at first but gradually. Right now I can't afford what they want to charge me to fix it. $500.00 I wish I knew someone here, where I live, who could do it and not charge me so much.
do you have a part where you show the noise before the fix?
Right at the beginning, I start the car so you can hear the noise. However, it is in a garage and echos. It really sounds like you have marbles in your engine.
that's how mine sounds. I'm going to attempt to replace the whole alternator right now. Using your instructions. Thanks!
I hope you replaced those (that) tire(s). The belts are clearly visible!
It’s so worn I think you can see the air on the inside of the tire.
thank you this was a big help
+Darrell Matthews You're most welcome. Thanks for watching.
+PowerUsr 451 how do you know when you have a bad alternator?
Normally, your battery will no longer charge and won't start.
Thanks, the problem I'm having with my caliber now is that the hood shakes while it's in idle
I had same problem on Dodge Avenger 2012 but the shop I took it too replace the Alternator.
Wats model?????
What a stupid place for an alternator !!! I'm about to do this. Mine is clacking and banging. Oh and thanks dodge for something on my alternator I don't need.
where did you got the ADP part
Amazon
Can anyone tell me some torque specs. Decoupler, alternator, etc, I do not have any impact driver to get decoupler on or off but can muscle it off. My fear is not getting the decoupler tight enough.
It has to be a quick break - not sure you can do it without an impact driver.
Poweruse: yup got a new tool. Cordless Earthquake xt 1/2 inch impact. That did the trick. Needed a new one anyway. Didn’t care about the torque specs. Just got the bolts tightened the best i could considering the cramp location.
Mine is making a similar sound and when I’m at a drive thru it sounds extra loud lol my battery light came on the same time it started making all that noise
mine did too. it is about to go out.
PowerUsr 451 the alternator itself or just the pulley
Good video. But you need new tires! Stay safe.
I have the same problem but I don't have anyone to help me with the repair. Can a woman do this by herself?
Also, what wire behind the alternator are you talking about? I didn't see it in the video.
Yes. However, you must have an impact wrench and air compressor to complete this job. You can also buy the part and have a mechanic put it on for you which would be much less expensive.
You can use an electrical impact wrench as well (thats what I used), but an air wrench would be much better.
I wish I had the confidence to do that!
+iPetroSS Thanks. I was unsure as well but it wasn't that bad. It was only the top alternator retaining bolt that gave me the most trouble.
Pully with clutch (one way)
Shit wait till you have to replace the oil pressure switch 🤣
Need to replace them lower ball joints and get an alignment those tires are gone!... You're gonna need an air hammer to get the old ball joints out.
Can I find you on Facebook? That would be great so I can talk to you and perhaps you can walk me through this job. I can't afford to pay $400-500 to have it fixed.
you re tires are bald
Where are the drain tube
They are leaking
Mine is doing it when it's cold
I'm going to have to replace this myself sigh.
It really wasn't that hard as long as you have an impact wrench. Good luck!
Shal'aam Aleichem
Why can't I EVER get a straight answer from the freaking internet anymore? I type in 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT 2.0 lit eng Fuel filter location an instead of getting a straight answer telling me where the hell the damn thing is located, I'm directed to EVERYTHING EXCEPT what the hell I'm looking for!!!!!!
Does ANYONE know where the hell the fuel filter is located on a 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT with a 2.0 lit end Duel VVT?
Baruch haba b'shem YaHuah
AAPiY
MiKaEl
As far as I understand this vehichle doesn't have an easily changable filter. I do believe its part of the pump.
THE NOISE WAS JUST A SMALL ISSUE YOU NEED TIRES bad DUDE !
+Avants Automotive Believe me the tires were changed out as soon as the repair was done!
same noise on my 09 2.4 avenger
That car needs suspension work and alignment that tire looked bad lol good video other than that
The job I have to go is the ac compressor.. Oh joy.
This car is a pain in the butt,I replaced the alternator with the new Decoupler, it's better to replace the alternator because if you just replace the Decouple and a month later the alternator go's out you will have to do it again.
That could happen. However, I've put 20,000 miles on this car after I replaced the decoupler pulley and it is still going strong.
The altinator comes out through the top much easier.
How so?
any one knows where to put transmission fliud
+Tamara Watson It is supposed to be a closed system and does not require any additional fluid. I was told to take it to an authorized dealer to have the fluid level checked.
i just replaced my decoupler pulley on my 2012 chrysler 200 and engine noise is gone. before i did it i noticed my gas mileage had gone down when the noise started. does the coupley effect gas mileage. ive read it does but cant get a straight answer. thanks.