Best carburetor cleaner ever!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Sorry!, for the mirrored image, was done on my phone. How to clean your Holley or any other aluminum carburetor with 33% Muriatic acid without spending a ton of money with great results. This process is NOT compatible with all carbs. Do a small test piece first to make sure your carb is compatible with this method. Note: This process will not work with pot metal! (It will turn black) Make sure that when you rebuild your carb after this process you spray a little WD-40 on all the bolts, threads and steel parts before installing them. Good luck! I will be posting up my L79 (327) .030 over SBC 11:03.1 CR 331 CI build soon, using this rebuilt Holley 750. Please hit the like and subscribe button, Thanks!
Safety notes:
1. Eye protection
2. Rubber gloves
3. Well ventilated area
4. Dispose of the used acid solution in the toilet, keeps the pipes clean.
This is one of those TH-cam videos that show what TH-cam SHOULD be. Video - EXTREMELY helpful, clear, easy, lists what you will need, a great explanation. PERFECT.
Wow, thanks!
Ronnie, I tried your water and acid ....mixed it as you said and my carburetor ended up developing black gray scale....I’m not impressed
@@stevenbowers1513 was it hot or cold water?
@@HeatherWelk Cold
I agree only if they were all this well explained, very nice video
Excellent Ronnie love it no music blaring no intro logos just the simple facts thank you!
Glad you liked it
Tech for 50 years- 38 as a shop owner. If you have a carb that the air adjustment(s) do not change the mixture try this.
Old school way is to use a mixture of white vinigar and water (approx 30/70) and put the disassembled parts in a slow cooker on low over night. Works especially good at disolving the salts created by moisture in the fuel more especially by ethanol that carb cleaners won't touch.
Clean the as much grime and gunk as much as possible before the soak.
New subscriber here. Old time carburetor guy (I'm 71 years old). Today both of my vehicles are fuel injection.
That carb looks new. Nice job. I don't know what a new carb costs today. Back in the day they were $60/70 dollars. In the 60's that is...
Enjoy your no BS video, and waiting for more. Thanks, from warm Florida.
Thanks for the sub!
I’m a machinist, thanks for the great video, right to the point! muriatic acid can be used to remove broken taps, drills, screws etc from aluminum. It won’t hurt the aluminum, but will literally rust out the offending tap. All you need to do is build a wall around the hole to pour in the acid, use modeling clay, not play dough! Or silicone caulking like the stuff you use to fix your fish tank. Once it’s dry, pour in the acid, it will bubble as it eats the tap, when it stops, poke it with a paper clip to get it working again. This process might take a day depending how much steel you need burned out. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
I use muriatic acid to eat aluminum from seized pistons off the steel liner of motorcycle and ATV cylinders because it will dissolve the aluminum without damaging the steel/cast iron - it will remove broken taps and such by eating the aluminum/zink (white metal) away from broken steel. It will cause rust on steel, but only surface rust.
Come on, guys, ph doesn't get much lower so it likes anything metallic.
Hydrochloric Acid 37%
MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Aluminum D - Poor
Bronze D - Poor
Carbon Steel D - Poor
Carpenter 20 D - Poor
Cast iron D - Poor
Copper D - Poor
Nylon D - Poor
Polycarbonate D - Poor
Polyurethane D - Poor
PPS (Ryton®) D - Poor
stainless steel - 304 D - Poor
stainless steel - 316 D - Poor
Titanium D - Poor
Once it gets through the oxide layer, it's off to the races. th-cam.com/video/ZLz4bSXcuYY/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful, much appreciated 👍🏾
That’s fucking cool
Wonder if it will hurt brass? I’ve got a Honda carb with a compression brass inlet and seat that Honda doesn’t make replacements for….
Remember: "Add acid to water, just like you otter!" This is an important thing to remember and a good phrase to help remember. Doing it the other way can actually cause the acid to explode outward, and it's very nasty stuff.
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes.
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
Just worked a treat on my 1952 (same age as me ) L.E. velocette, here in the UK. Nicely presented video too,without all the shouting and waved around camera. And straight to the point, thanks for it, i did my cylinder heads too. Look great.
Thank you for sharing. I'm a contractor and my hobby is rebuilding old cars and trucks. I have used muratic acid to clean away oil and grease from concrete with really good results before painting with epoxy. The epoxy run about 100 bucks a gallon so you need good results or it's going to get expensive. And my customers won't be giving me a good referral. I will definitely give this a try. And thank you for your service. Our Son gave all.
Have you tried staining concrete with iron sulphate which is cheap and typical fertiliser?
Google it and look at the examples it's pretty impressive with some people have done.
No preparation is actually a requirement, as over cleaning in etching it doesn't work as well.
It's way cheaper easier and looks good, Especially for low budget job
First thanks for serving in the military and second thanks for sharing this tip. I have been very dissatisfied with the over the counter carburetor cleaner gallon can and baskets out there. They are not what they used to be. Thanks!
I had a 350 bord .080 over
Great tip, Ronnie! I'm a long time automotive and power-sports tech,and this is the ONLY way to properly clean a badly "gummed up" carb, irregardless of what it is on,once the fuel in it has begun to evaporate and thicken.A bad carb clean can have bad results. I use a Safety Clean commercial product,pretty strong,and have both accidentally AND purposely left metal only parts in this solution for as many as four days with no noticeable damage to the castings,but this may cause some pitting on softer metal welsh plugs,and it can etch brass .Only do these longer dips for carbs that CANNOT be replaced,or the carb cleaner/air method has little effect on dried up fuel,(and if you are an experienced,capable technician). And again,as you pointed out,metal and plastic parts only in acid,it will compromise rubber,I.E throttle shaft seals,bowl gaskets,etc.One important thing to remember,though,(users pay attention,you can save yourselves a lot of downtime,money and aggravation),is that a DRY carburetor or fuel system will NEVER need much,if any cleaning after any length of storage.Always drain a fuel system DRY for long term storage,and you will NEVER reach the point of needing this kind of service. IF you have a steel tank,you must keep it wet to prevent rust,but plastic will always be better off dry. I have made a large amount of money cleaning carbs and fuel systems over a long span of time that wouldn't have been necessary by using proper equipment and fuel storage methods.This applies for anything using any hydrocarbon fuel, (gasoline,diesel fuel,alcohol),that will be subjected to long periods of storage or non-use.Don't let the fuel evaporate!
Thank you for your service to our country. And, thanks for explaining as you did - without any of that coarse language that embarrasses. I appreciate you.
Much appreciated
Stunning work and info! Hydrochloric acid (Muratic/stomach acid) does remove everything. But it is very bad for iron, because it causes rapid rusting of the iron after it removes the rust. You can use Phosphoric acid after cleaning steel to remove the invisible rust and seal the metal by creating a thin layer of black iron on the metal, which prevents rapid rusting. Phosphoric acid must be used instead of Muratic acid, on iron parts, unless there is no other way to clean the rust. Evaporust works very well too, the liquid, and it removes rust very well without causing rapid rusting afterwards. Citric acid and Acetic acid also passivate and seal iron, instead of creating rapid rusting like Muratic acid. If you don't have anything, using vinegar (acetic acid) is good for iron parts and won't cause long term rusting and damage. Phosphoric acid/citric acid/acetic acid lightly passivate iron and protect it from rusting. You can also use these acids on stainless steel, with Phosphoric acid and Citric acid being the best for stainless, they passivate the stainless. Muratic acid, does not passviate steel or stainless steel, so it will rust or stain later when exposed to light moisture. This carburetor looks absolutely amazing! I'm only sharing this information because it may be relevant for people trying to clean steel parts.
Mr Ritalie I work in the metal machining and grinding case harden steels, we temper etch (Nital Etch steels) for burns,(Over Temper or re hardening), the trick is, clean with hydrochloric an water or alcohol, alcohol is preferred over water, it does not cause a condition called hydrogen embrittlement in harden steel, or it can be baked after etching to prevent embrittlement,
after etching in acid requires a solution of sodium carbonate (Baking soda) to neutralize the acid, and prevent surface deterioration from the improper neutralization.
then clean in hot water , then dip in oil to prevent corrosion. (rust) there more to this but for cleaning the above is all that is needed. any thing etched has to be neutralized then water rinsed and then dipped into a corrosion prevention. cast iron is a weird animal since it is high carbon, and will react different and detrimental. God Bless
You are exactly right! Muriatic acid is for idiots! Use phosphoric acid.
I've used vinegar for years. Cheap and easy provide you're patient.
@@rexmericle5068 hey Rex does the vinegar clean out the varnished gas in the tiny passages? Will overnight be enough? How about warming it slightly on the stove? Thanks
@@daveg2199 hi Dave it depends on how bad the build up is. What I generally do is disassemble the carb and leave it in vinegar for about two days. If you have heavy varnish I suggest pushing some carb cleaner through the various ports with all the brass parts out. It's always worked for me. I would think warming up the vinegar to soften up the varnish is a good idea. I have to tell you that the carbs I've worked on over the last 10 years are motorcycle carbs which are VERY "finicky" by comparison. Nice about vinegar, you can strain it through a coffee filter and reuse it and when it gets dark you can just pour it out on the ground.
Hi Ronnie. Great Video!! I'm a shop owner & have been looking for a good carb cleaner for years. We used to have great cleaners in this industry until the EPA killed them all. Always wondered about acid but never tried it. Now I will! This is a Great Help Thanks for spending the time to bring this to all of us!
Thank you, I've been fighting carburetors my whole damn life. If it's not a vehicle it's a motorcycle, quad, tractor, lawn mower, rototiller. I mean almost constantly fighting carburetors. Bought a ultrasonic cleaner just to clean carburetors. Wasn't impressed with it either. I will definitely try this. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I bet if you can devise a way to make the acid bath vibrate it will work even better
I can see I'm not alone in that fight... Hahahahaja
Ronnie that special water & acid mix did do a BEAUTIFUL JOB on that old Holley 4 barrel!!!!!!!!! It looks even better than when it was brand spanking new right out of the box!!!!!!!! I bet that would work wonders for even an old GM Quadrajet 4 barrel!!!!!!! Just a simple acid & water mix! Who even knew???? I’m 56 & I have always messed with cars & it just goes to show that you’re NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW! Thanks for the video!
I'm also retired vet and I appreciate the information I've had a hard time cleaning these carburetors thank!!
Thank you and thanks for you service
Cleaned out autolite 2100 on 69 Bronco with berry man's about 3 cans selector switch had rust ran good until I switched tanks something got thru plugged up power valve (new) need to give another spritzing should be okay she hadn't run in over 13 yrs. sounded good no sticky lifters marvel mystery oil and berry man's italian tune up vice grips garage slogan,,👍😊✌️🤔
@@milotorres6894 marvel mystery oil is the bomb! I bought late model chevy 6.0 truck for engine core.it ticked bad and smoked up the whole neighborhood when you started it. Ran 8, oz. MMO in it for about a week and shazam! It unstuck the ring I guess.no more smoking.that was 3 yrs ago.still using it for farm truck to this day.had to buy another core engine.lol
Very cool. Several of my projects require carburetor cleaning and rebuild which I have been dreading. Working with the usual highly volatile solvents is not so good for your health to put it lightly. This idea revitalizes my enthusiasm for tackling the carburetor conundrum. Thank you Ronnie. Your propensity for detail kept me glued to the screen. Keep up the good work sir thank you for your service.
Thank you!
Great instructions and step by step explanations. Been doing this for years on various auto parts. My only suggestion is to add a couple of rounded tablespoons of baking soda to your rinse water to neutralize the acid.
I have been cleaning my carburetors by putting lacquer cleaner in my almost empty gas tank: a pint is most always enough. I run the engine after using starter fluid to get it going. The lacquer cleaner dissolves all the varnish, and gunk from even the smallest passageways. This method has never failed me!
Thanks Ronnie for the video /mixed 2 gallons of water with 1 1/2 pints of muriatic acid. total change in about 10 minutes. note this carburetor looked like frosting it was so caked with white corrosion inside. Clean and re dipped a second time for 5 minutes. Total cleanliness in 15 to 20 minutes. Thanks again Ronnie
Thank you!
how's it look? any damage ?
@@bmw5050 Looks and runs great, no damage. The steel parts need to have some WD-40 sprayed on them or light rust will appear.
Thank You Mr. Ron!
I'm now stoked to be hunting down a double pumper on Craigslist for a song, and all will be well. As the son of a Vietnam Veteran, THANK YOU for your service.
This is great! I remember in the 80's building small blocks and Holley and Carter Carbs were what we used. I remember using lots of carb clean, wish I knew about this then, but then again all we had back then was Chiltons no You Tube!
Great point!
Yes Haynes and Chiltton manuals my early teacher.
@@oakcliffpride They were good teachers, that and experience.
I second that! Knowledge is power and performance.
I am rebuilding a chevy scottsdale 4x4 right now. I keep a large home depot bucket of muriatic acid. 50/50 to water. All my metal parts go into it but...note to everyone. Have a good way to pull the part out and a way not to drip acid all over the place. Also, acid will clean that metal up slick as snot but it will not touch anything with grease or dirt on it so clean first. Lastly...eye protection! drop something in a bucket and that splash can hit ya right in the eyes. Thank you Ronnie for this video!! I never thought of using this for a carburetor and I have a 78 quadrajet that is dirty as can be.
Glad you posted this & I appreciate it. Very good video; direct to the point with no stupid background noise or unnecessary and unrelated conversation. Thanks, great job.
I appreciate that!
I found that aluminum wheel cleaner works wonders. It’s acidic for break dust which does the job on gunk but safe on aluminum finishes.
Great tip. Retired military here also. ASE Master Tech.
Enjoying your good work here in S.C. Mr. Henson, keep'em 'coming. I'm retar... retired also and have the time to watch them!
Very good video .
Much appreciated
Something worth mentioning; well ventilated area and respirator are great. Inhalation of hydrochloric acid vapors and mists produces nose, throat, and laryngeal burning, and irritation, pain and inflammation, coughing, sneezing, choking sensation, shortness of breath, hoarseness, laryngeal spasms, upper respiratory tract edema, bronchial constriction, bronchitis, chest pains, as well has headache, and palpitations. Tile man, 22 years, and have had to "acid wash" a few old tile jobs. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid.
Muriatic acid is "diluted" hydrochloric acid. Anyone can read safety precautions. Did you know gasoline is flammable and deadly? But you put it in your car all the time but do you use gloves and a respirator? Your comment was not only unhelpful but ignorant to this video but thanks for sharing.
@@djrowe10 I am genuinely perplexed as to why you would reply to good advice in the fashion that you did. When I was younger I thought only ninnies worried about safety. My good lady is a nurse and sees a lot of these tough guys after they are given a prognosis of months or weeks. You know what a guy rotting from the inside out looks like? Yeah we all giggle about “safely third” but the fact is, if your messing with chemical, don’t be stupid. The damage may be down before your know it’s happening. “Well read the label!” A lot guys don’t read safety warnings. It’s sour that reiterating. Your reply is not only unhelpful, it’s irresponsible. Shame on you.
PS - comparing filling a car with full at a gas station and potentially working in an unventilated area over a vat of acid is incandescently stupid.
@@koch5000 Thank you for commenting on his ignorance; I'm sure, when he read the label on the HCL bottle saying 35%, he thought it was diluted. In reality, 35-37% HCL is considered concentrate.
Also this trick can be used for removing zinc from steel before welding. It completely removes all zinc and anything else on steel, works awesome.
Awesome, The cleaner you get at the dollar store, Awesome.
@@340rps Does that do the same thing?
And the younger boys say, What's a carburetor? I like the soda idea.
LOL!
Huh
@@ronniehenson4122 aasaaaa
LMAO when one of the wet behind the ears brigade calls it a carbonator!!! It has nothing to do with soft drinks!!
Hi Ronnie, years ago I used to re-build engines, carbs. etc. & I later worked for 3 years on the engine assembly lines at Ford in Cologne here in Germany. To clean alloy items such as carbs., water pumps etc. I always used paint stripper which works really well. After about 20 mins. of allowing the stripper to melt down all the gunk you just have to blow out the soaked item well after dunking in fresh water several times, then allow to dry overnight.
You sir are a true inspiration,
Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, if you ever come down under you can see the same results, I followed your steps. Couldn’t be happier
Thanks!
I normally prefer watching the steps being done as the person talks, but you did an amazing job describing the process, cost, tools, etc. 5 star video. Great job. Earned my subscribe and like for sure!
Thank you so much!
@@ronniehenson4122 I used your method to clean the carb on my 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp outboard. It worked great! I had to make some other adjustments with my fuel lines but I finally got it running! This was my first outboard I've ever worked on and didn't even know what a point was going into it haha. Feeling pretty accomplished right now! I'm going to take it out on the water tomorrow. I expect some more work on it but...she runs! I'll try and post a video of how she does out there!
Ford penetrating fluid, comes in a spray can
It's the only thing that dissolves the green lacquer
works instantly
Gm and dodge makes one we use
paint remover will remove the green lacquer
Nice job Ronnie. I'm an old school Ford dealership driveability tech and back in the day I've overhauled countless carbs of almost all types. We used a product back then we called hydroseal. And it worked great. But you can't get that stuff anymore that I know of. Since then, like you I've tried all kinds of stuff. None of it really worked to well. Functional, yes, appearance not so much. So this is good stuff to know. Thanks
Thanks for sharing
Surprisingly hot water and dish soap work well and doesn’t strip off any finishes, Learned that in a sthill chainsaw school .It is the only thing they recommended, I have an ultrasonic cleaner I throw them in.
I tried that also. I wasn't impressed at all. Didn't really clean anything. I bought the ultrasonic cleaner just for this. I wonder what would happen if you warmed up this solution in your ultrasonic cleaner and then dunked the carburetor parts in?
@@alanbehnke9615 I use almost boiling water, I have cleaned up some pretty varnished carbs , sometimes I have to change the water a couple of times
From the time this video started I was like that carb looks brand NEW!!
Might want to try ‘Purple Power’ full strength as a soak also. Just let the carb body and parts soak overnight and rinse off. Does an excellent job cleaning and doesn’t cause any dulling of the aluminum finish. More expensive but also easy to get rid of the leftovers.
Thanks for the tip!
I soaked my Motorcraft 2150 2-barrel in full strength Purple Power for about 2 hours today and it appeared to be eating the aluminum body. Took a LOT of scrubbing to get it cleaned up, that's why I'm here watching a video about using muriatic acid to clean the parts.
Ron From Tulsa, I have a 1970 Fiat 850 Sports Spyder with a Weber 30 DICA carburetor. I have rebuilt the carburetor several times since I purchased the car in 1983. However, this time will be a little different. I will be zinc plating the steel parts. I will be cleaning the carb body with ultrasonic cleaner and mag wheel cleaner. Several you Tubes have done this however I may be zinc plating the aluminum carb body also. As for the steel parts I will be using a vibrating tumbler. First to clean then to zinc plate with yellow chromate solution. Zinc is to prevent the corrosion problems shortly after cleaning. I am in the electrical field and have plated many different items. I have not done Zinc but have silver plated. It may seem that I will be going to an extreme, but I was willing to buy new until I saw prices from 400 to 800 for a carburetor done the way I am going to do this one. If you would like I will keep you in the loop as to the outcome.
Yes, please do! Thanks!
Bad ass ain't no denying it thanks for your service to our country and the carburator cleaner video
I am on the east coast of Canada so know all about cold and dreary. I am on my way tomorrow for a jug of muriatic acid. I rebuild and restore old outboards and some Tecumseh and Briggs engines. I have a sonic cleaner and have tried MANY so called cleaners...THAT carb looks GREAT. Great vid Ron.
Thanks!
You earned my subscription with your straight forward information
Thank you for taking the time
Would like to see a video of you soda blasting and set up
I love these little tricks to beat big companies, selling expensive Products. When some of the cheapest stuff out there gets it done! Very Nice!
Ronnie! You did a great job presenting and explaining the video. I'm going to try it on my next rebuild.
Glad it helped
Love the old Craftsman box you have. Perhaps a tool box tour ?
Might just do that. Thanks!
In one of your rebuild video, I noticed the wall locker in the background, and said to myself, this dude is a veteran. Looks like the lockers we had in the Army. You confirmed in this video. Thanks for the awesome video, and most of all thanks for your dedicated service! God Bless!
Thank you!
Muriatic acid comes in a very broad variety of concentrations, it will be listed right on the label of the container you have. It would be nice if you included the concentration in your description below the video. Too high a concentration could acid etch the metal. I'm a retired chemical salesman and this is important information.
Read all my the description and you will see 33%......js!
Subscribed, good tip and presentation. Retired mechanic who hangs in the shop. Currently doing a 383 (chev) and have a 1957 283 willing to part with...
Thats called sodium dichromate conversion coating it was put on there to help fight corrosion because some mixtures of air and moisture caused corrosion on metal parts. When the Rochester Quatrajet first debuted there was no conversation coating and no green teflon parts, Gm noticed this and now you know why the green came about.for the coating it didnt come around till the late 50s.this coating was first introduced to steel bolts to fight corrosion in air planes.cause most are aluminum.because aluminum and steel dont agree with temps very good. You did it backwards but if it worked then so be it. I use a heated sonic tank (I know most cant afford that and your way is good too) for my carbs first in kerosene and mineral spirits.for about hr.then they get blown out and rinsed off then they get soda blasted in my blast cabinet.(again I know most cant afford it.) Sometimes I replate these parts with a plating prosess but it doesnt have to have this plating . Then if I choose to then I can dichromate it.but this also doesn't need to applied for the DIYer I own DennisCarb here in ohio.and I get it the small guy needs to know that theres cheaper ways to DIY stuff. I'm known here for the 40 dollar rebuilds and the lifetime warranties.GREAT CHANNEL IM SUBSCRIBED. 6 to 600hp
Safetykleen use to have a product that they used in a pneumatic washing machine. It cleaned everything, carburetors, pistons, rods, or whatever you put in it. You set the timer for 15 minutes and the parts came out 100% clean. I called Safetykleen and they said the solution was to caustic that the EPA stopped them form using it. I will give try muriatic acid. Thank you.
Once the Aniline dye is removed though, the carburetor is bare zinc and can corrode and get ugly pretty fast. I would not do this unless I had the dye to redo it. The steel parts, throttle lever, etc. are Cadmium plated, then Cadmium Chromate dipped - for corrosion resistance, I would be really careful to not remove it or you're going to have a bunch of rusty parts once the carb is out in the real world.
Instablaster
Coast Guard vet here, Vietnam era old fart and gearhead, you've got another sub. I appreciate your passing along the carb cleaning method as I've built my share of carbs through the years and continue to do so. I can remember a time when the available carb cleaner solution was effective, but I guess too many idiots couldn't follow instructions and the government stepped in and made piss out of it.
Nice work Ronnie. Hello from Cairns, Australia.
Hello there!
Excellent video for m acid useage. I'm showing this to my 75 yr old dad. He always messing with a carb on something.
Thank you for this cleaner I’m going to tell my friend he has 5of them that are frozen with gunk!!
Glad to help
I just used this method on 2 holley 660's. Absolutely awesome. This is the best method there is. Thanks for posting this. One of the best videos i have ever seen on TH-cam.
Glad it helped!
Just what I needed to clean my carbs, thank you and thanks for your service Sir!
Thank you!
1968, I was in the Army stationed at Ft. Bliss, El Paso, TX. I rebuilt the Carter Carb on my 65 Chevelle 300 hp 327 at the Air Force base craft shop next door to Ft. Bliss. They had a 5 gallon bucket of some kind of acid because when they took the lid off, it smoked. I wish I could remember what acid they used. They had a stainless basket that allowed the carb parts to be dunked into the acid with easy retrieval. The mechanic there told me to leave the carb parts in the acid for 45 minutes if I remember correctly because it had been used many times before. Anyway, my carb looked brand new afterwards and the engine performed like new with this super cleaned carb.
there is a cleaner called Brulin 512M they use it in Heli engines , see if an operator of Bell 206 or MD500s are around and see if they will sell you a pint, you can soak carbon off easily overnight with it. if using acid, you have to neutralize it after the acid dip with water and baking soda for a bit then into water
Thank you very much I'm a retired fertilizer chemist and have a few old 327 to 350 motors I've owned and use on my airboats and as you say when i was working the gas gets left in carbs and I have used Nitric acid and other chems for cleaning the discount way cause you could buy a carb for almost what the 5 gallon bucket with basket of carb cleaner in the 80's and 90's but i never thought about using muratic and as i was watching and listening I was wondering about the baking soda Thank you I am retired and have about 5,000 worth of holley's from 650 cfm to 1150 double pumpers that are fixing to get rebuilt Thank you very much Preston Green Fish eating creek FL>
Used TSP on my carb and motor rebuild for prep. Worked well.
I CLEARLY remember the Holly 750 for the big block motors...the best carb made!!! Had one in the early 70’s
I also love that picture of the 427 Chevelle on his profile wow
Just make sure that the carb is not Magnesium. I put a VW beetle carb in full strength muriatic acid and within minutes all that was left was the brass and steel parts
Gorgeous carb! Keep sharing with your great discoveries.
Thank you! Will do!
Excellent video; no nonsense. Rebuilding ‘77 Honda Goldwing carbs…will definitely try your methods.
Thanks
I put a nozzle on the side of a metal bucket about two inches from the bottom, then fill halfway up with Gunk, it's best, put your basket with carb inside, plug in on nozzle and let it bubble about two hours , wash with water and carefully blow out with air, hey I'm a professional mechanic of more than 50 years. 2/16/21
I've used CLR for years and that stuff just chews through the algae I find in carbs now days. I think that crap comes from the ethanol they put in the gas nowadays. That algae is like trying to remove ceramic from the insides of carburetors. And I think it's a lot safer than using muriatic acid. GOD bless y'all.
The guys at work use a muriatic acid solution to clean all aluminum on the big trucks. They just spray it on with a pump sprayer then let sit then they power wash it off. Makes the trucks look like new money. Never thought about using to clean a carb. Nice
I ALWAYS USE LAQUER THINNER IT WILL DISSOLVE VARNISH AND GUNK IN ALL THE TINY PASSAGES, I JUST FINISHED REBUILDING MY MOTORCYCLE CARBS AND THEY LOOKED LIKE NEW.
I've had good luck soaking parts in old diesel and then rinsing it white vinegar water solution.... retaining the luster and protection of the parts is important to me.
I found this just in time... tore my Quadrajet apart & it's in bad need of cleaning... I think I'm gonna give this a whirl.. thanks mate!!! Excellent video
Absolutely great info Ronnie....Thanks much, very well made video also sir.
Thank you!
I've worked on an anodizing line. Sodium Hydroxide AKA caustic soda will eat aluminum. An acid solution in my experience doesn't affect aluminum. In fact sulfuric acid is used in the clear coat anodize process. Muriatic acid is a less concentrated or less pure hydrochloric acid. I had no idea it would clean the old deposits out of a carburetor. Thanks very much for sharing this.
Great video. Thats what we need, more people like you willing to share these things to save a few bucks - an expensive hobby old classics. Thanks - subbed.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for doing this video. I am going to follow your instructions, and do this for my 1977 Suzuki DS100C & 1980 RM125T Carbs. The 77 looks pretty crusty inside and out, the RM just needs a general on the outside.
Great Job Ronnie. Thank You for your Service and the video!
Much appreciated
Johnny Here from Northwest Oklahoma... working on an RV I received in “ Needs TLC” condition. The carb is a Holley list#50278-1, which I’ve done a little research and believe it is a 4180. It would just pour gas out when I tried to start it. So, my adventure into carb rebuilding begins. Thanks for sharing this great bit of knowledge. I’m about to have the best looking 1988 Holley on the block!😎
Thanks Ronnie for Sharing this with all of Us Mate . Great Job on the 750 Double Pumper Brother.
Thanks 👍
Hate to be that nitpicking kinda guy but that’s not a double pumper
@@tonybarracuda3505 That's Correct it's A Vac. Secondary. I don't Mean To Nitpick Either. Looks really good!
Randomly decided to click on this video after watching some videos on those ultrasonic cleaners. Glad I did, because the results of this actually looks better than a lot of the results I was seeing in those ultrasonic reviews. Plus, for me, they're not exactly cheap.
And greetings from Northeast Oklahoma. 🤙🏼
Due to the fumes, do it outside. I haven't seen it in a long time, there is gold spray that makes it look original if it is desired. It is not gold paint but a color that matches the original.
Eastwood has it
I have use it on bike and boat carbs for years when they are full of chalk. I just dip for minute but then I dip into a backing soda wash to neutralize it. I use it full strength and not the cheep green stuff like Walmart sells. I also use it to eat the rust out of bike gas tanks too in minutes not days. The key is the baking soda to stop the eating
Good video. The baking soda will also neutralize the acid.
Man you make me feel bad for not researching this for the last year or so. Great video better than just boiling it in vinegar water!
Will definitely try the acid dip, as well as the soda blast. Thank you
Man that did it, my old Solex on the Beetle looks absolutely new. Now to install it and it's off to the mountains to take some pictures. Thanks a mint.
Right on!
Great Info., Great way to clean intake manifold. Thanks for your service.
Thanks for watching!
Need to rebuild the carbs on my '83 Goldwing. Gonna try this method.
Appreciate your time doing this!!
Good luck!
I will have to try this I've been using oven cleaner quite successfully
Cleans bottoms of boats as well
Todays date: 1-21-22. OK, I admit I didn't read all of what you put above. I used 1gal of 28% acid and 3/4gal of water. Put the carb bowl off a Edelbrock 600 in it and watch'r boil. It musta been pot metal as, yes it turned black and the carb bowl came out like a raw casting. Total loss. But the carb had been out in the weather for some time as it was completely rusted solid, so was already a total loss. Great learning curve. Good video. Watch it twice. Before and after.
I use vinegar,,, I brought a 30 year old triumph motorcycle tank back to new with a 24 hour soak,,,and you don't have to worry about hurt any metal
Just a matter of time - your's be the slow way.
I was given a lawnmower by a lady who lived next door to some people having a yard sale. Free is always worth the price. Anyway, I got it home and took off the fuel cap, finding the tank extraordinarily rusty. It's the steel can that doubles as a "float bowl". Well, I decided to try some de-rusting agents to clean it out. Naval Jelly was first. Totally useless in the case of the fur lined tank. Next was Limeaway. A tiny bit better, but I didn't have a couple weeks to deal with it. Finally, I went with a drain cleaner that had been recommended by a local hardware store employee for a bad clog. It is called Bulldozer drain cleaner. I didn't have anything to lose, so I put the mower out in the yard and poured in a few ounces of Bulldozer. It started bubbling and fuming, so I retreated to the porch and used the solid stream nozzle on the hose, blasting out the tank from about fifteen feet away. I tipped out the water and saw shining metal in the tank. Two more treatments, and the interior was spotless. I used compressed air to dry out the tank. Sprayed the carburetor with some aerosol brake cleaner and gave it a go. Fresh gas and oil and a quick clean of the plug. One pull of the rope and it lit right up. Amazing. I used it a few times, and then a friend needed to borrow it. As far as I know, it's still in service.
I used some vinegar once on some rusted iron. It did a good job. I then put some very rusted brake discs in. I was shocked, it was dissolving the discs. SO, try a small piece of the same metal that you are wanting to clean.
I watched your Post about carb cleaning a few years ago and have used that to clean ever since, I had one aluminum snowmobile carb that was real bad , I left it in the dip over night there was no damage to the carb and the carb worked like new.
Thank you!
Thanks Brother , I restore old motorcycles I have been struggling with this for Years , now I will try Your method .
Best of luck
@@ronniehenson4122 woud you take the time to manually scrub off any dirt, gunk, on the carb before dipping it in the acid or just save yourself the trouble and drop it straight in off a bike thats been sitting for 10 years?
Great Video Ronnie ! Very Very Helpful considering I just Purchased a Gallon of cleaner @ $ 39.00 a Gallon It doesn’t do the Job like it use to back in the 70s.But can’t thank you enough on your Experiment.I can tell this is the way to go ! Thanks Again for your help !
Glad it helped
This entire process is dang brilliant, Ronnie. I respect and admire your willingness to experiment. I wish I just knew the stuff you have forgotten! Very good video, Sir! Thank You.
Very cool Process! I would only worry about the inside gaskets, the rubber in the accelerator pump and the secondary vacuum diaphragms. I have the exact same carb on my 67 big block Mustang. Probably wont get in there, but I will remove them to be on safe side. Thanks for Posting.
Total disassembly before the dip in the acid. Correct!
@@ronniehenson4122 Thank you for your reply Ronnie! And yes, disassembly makes good sense. Navy Vet cheers from Motown!
One of the best videos on TH-cam, Ronnie. Great work!
A little baking soda in the cleaning water will neutralize the acid on the carb. Great tip. Hello from the "east side of Oklahoma".
thanks for the extra info
Thank you sir for your service and thank you for taking this old hotrodder back 50 years great knowledge
Our pleasure!
Thanks for the tutorial man. It looks gorgeous and I will definitely be trying out your process. This is the first of your videos that I have watched and I look forward to watching more in the future.
Awesome! Thank you!
Wow, been looking for something since the old dips were diluted. Thank you for this!
Glad I found your channel bud! I use Pine sol, regular strength only, have been for years but I am going to try your way.
Thank you! Good luck!