This is one of those TH-cam videos that show what TH-cam SHOULD be. Video - EXTREMELY helpful, clear, easy, lists what you will need, a great explanation. PERFECT.
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Tech for 50 years- 38 as a shop owner. If you have a carb that the air adjustment(s) do not change the mixture try this. Old school way is to use a mixture of white vinigar and water (approx 30/70) and put the disassembled parts in a slow cooker on low over night. Works especially good at disolving the salts created by moisture in the fuel more especially by ethanol that carb cleaners won't touch. Clean the as much grime and gunk as much as possible before the soak.
Great instructions and step by step explanations. Been doing this for years on various auto parts. My only suggestion is to add a couple of rounded tablespoons of baking soda to your rinse water to neutralize the acid.
Yeah buddy. First time we did this many moons since, and water rinsed, weeks later the truck came in and could see vapor still coming off the carb! (Do use a baking soda rinse)!
New subscriber here. Old time carburetor guy (I'm 71 years old). Today both of my vehicles are fuel injection. That carb looks new. Nice job. I don't know what a new carb costs today. Back in the day they were $60/70 dollars. In the 60's that is... Enjoy your no BS video, and waiting for more. Thanks, from warm Florida.
Hey Ronnie this German thanks you for serving,The memory I have from Muriatic Acid was my First job at 18 when I first came to the US First off Muriatic Acid is the most foul smell I ever whiffed that includes my Morning shift in the Bathroom😂 I worked as a Painter in Monterey California and my Boss told me I would be in charge of Cleaning the Half tile Roof of the Monterey Hospital of Pidgeon shit and Mildew ,large job I used a Pump sprayer container soaking the Tiles and then using a Power washer,this worked very well and cleaned the tiles like new ,though now I look at how Dangerous this was without my Boss telling me the Danger,the Drunk didn’t care about my Safety anyhow the smell stays in my memory and will now clean my 6 pack 340 Challenger motor Carbs Cheers from West of Chicago
I did this exact process to a Holly carb thats was on a 1964 Rambler 327 V8 I bought from a junkyard. That carb was original equipment and I wanted to keep the engine that way. It workd perfectly once I refreshed it with new gaskets!! Plus it looked like new. I love restoring old things. They just work so nice.
The “original” Berrymans Chem Dip was cresylic acid with an additive that created a boundry layer to minimize evaporation. Worked extremely well. At some point the formula was changed probably due to EPA regs. Stunk like hell, was rough on skin and worked best when heated (hot tank). This is a great alternative and economical IF you follow Ronnies instructions. Good job Ronnie!
Nice product, my husband has a Carburetor rebuilding business for 36 years and he has tried everything out there. The best product he has found to date is called Pro 300 made for ultrasonic machines.Needs to be about 165 deg, and water rinse. Good luck with the acid.
WOW! New tool! Years ago Berryman's products worked fine until they changed the formula due to pressure from the nanny state. Thanks for posting this new to me information. Looks like it worked GREAT! 😎
You probably won’t get this but I have been building engines and wrenching on cars and trucks for over 50 years and I have never heard about this. Absolutely great info and even though it’s 5 years old you can bet I watched every bit of it. Vet here also. Thanks brother!
Ronnie that special water & acid mix did do a BEAUTIFUL JOB on that old Holley 4 barrel!!!!!!!!! It looks even better than when it was brand spanking new right out of the box!!!!!!!! I bet that would work wonders for even an old GM Quadrajet 4 barrel!!!!!!! Just a simple acid & water mix! Who even knew???? I’m 56 & I have always messed with cars & it just goes to show that you’re NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW! Thanks for the video!
Thank You Mr. Ron! I'm now stoked to be hunting down a double pumper on Craigslist for a song, and all will be well. As the son of a Vietnam Veteran, THANK YOU for your service.
Thank you for sharing. I'm a contractor and my hobby is rebuilding old cars and trucks. I have used muratic acid to clean away oil and grease from concrete with really good results before painting with epoxy. The epoxy run about 100 bucks a gallon so you need good results or it's going to get expensive. And my customers won't be giving me a good referral. I will definitely give this a try. And thank you for your service. Our Son gave all.
Have you tried staining concrete with iron sulphate which is cheap and typical fertiliser? Google it and look at the examples it's pretty impressive with some people have done. No preparation is actually a requirement, as over cleaning in etching it doesn't work as well. It's way cheaper easier and looks good, Especially for low budget job
I am rebuilding a chevy scottsdale 4x4 right now. I keep a large home depot bucket of muriatic acid. 50/50 to water. All my metal parts go into it but...note to everyone. Have a good way to pull the part out and a way not to drip acid all over the place. Also, acid will clean that metal up slick as snot but it will not touch anything with grease or dirt on it so clean first. Lastly...eye protection! drop something in a bucket and that splash can hit ya right in the eyes. Thank you Ronnie for this video!! I never thought of using this for a carburetor and I have a 78 quadrajet that is dirty as can be.
The guys at work use a muriatic acid solution to clean all aluminum on the big trucks. They just spray it on with a pump sprayer then let sit then they power wash it off. Makes the trucks look like new money. Never thought about using to clean a carb. Nice
Just worked a treat on my 1952 (same age as me ) L.E. velocette, here in the UK. Nicely presented video too,without all the shouting and waved around camera. And straight to the point, thanks for it, i did my cylinder heads too. Look great.
First I thank you for your service Sir. I worked for Holley as a machinist for years and will tell you that all the "body" parts on a Holley carburetor are solid zinc. Excellent video, thank you.
@@ronniehenson4122 I certainly learned something here. I never once thought of using muriatic acid for a carb cleaner. I have soaked steel and cast iron in a solution of water and 10% molasses. Takes about a week but works amazingly well. My most recent rust removal was the inside of a very rusted motorcycle tank Thanks again.
this was one of the best solutions ever used, I used this method and solution to clean my VW EGR Valve kit, it dissolved all carbon buildup and made it look new. THANKS
A++, been cleaning mechanical parts for 65 years and had a hard time replacing the old cleaners that are now illegal (carbon tetra chloride etc etc) tried everything that auto stores said would work,,,,,nothing did a really good job,,,,soooo glad to find this video, never thought of trying your solution. Always thought it would be too strong to even try it 🙏🙏🙏🙏thank you from an “old fart” whom still likes “really clean” carburetors, manifolds, etc…thank you
I'm about to embark on rebuilding an old 650 double pumper that was sitting on an engine for about 23 years. Was looking for an inexpensive solution to cleaning it back to new and I just found it. THANK YOU! AND THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE SIR!
Thank you for your service to our country. And, thanks for explaining as you did - without any of that coarse language that embarrasses. I appreciate you.
Thank you so much. I am a carburetor type person and this video was just what I need. I have used smelly , corrosive carb. cleaner and hot water for years, this is much better. Videos on your method of carb. rebuilding would be great.
I’m a machinist, thanks for the great video, right to the point! muriatic acid can be used to remove broken taps, drills, screws etc from aluminum. It won’t hurt the aluminum, but will literally rust out the offending tap. All you need to do is build a wall around the hole to pour in the acid, use modeling clay, not play dough! Or silicone caulking like the stuff you use to fix your fish tank. Once it’s dry, pour in the acid, it will bubble as it eats the tap, when it stops, poke it with a paper clip to get it working again. This process might take a day depending how much steel you need burned out. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
I use muriatic acid to eat aluminum from seized pistons off the steel liner of motorcycle and ATV cylinders because it will dissolve the aluminum without damaging the steel/cast iron - it will remove broken taps and such by eating the aluminum/zink (white metal) away from broken steel. It will cause rust on steel, but only surface rust.
Come on, guys, ph doesn't get much lower so it likes anything metallic. Hydrochloric Acid 37% MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY Aluminum D - Poor Bronze D - Poor Carbon Steel D - Poor Carpenter 20 D - Poor Cast iron D - Poor Copper D - Poor Nylon D - Poor Polycarbonate D - Poor Polyurethane D - Poor PPS (Ryton®) D - Poor stainless steel - 304 D - Poor stainless steel - 316 D - Poor Titanium D - Poor Once it gets through the oxide layer, it's off to the races. th-cam.com/video/ZLz4bSXcuYY/w-d-xo.html
I found this just in time... tore my Quadrajet apart & it's in bad need of cleaning... I think I'm gonna give this a whirl.. thanks mate!!! Excellent video
Great tip, Ronnie! I'm a long time automotive and power-sports tech,and this is the ONLY way to properly clean a badly "gummed up" carb, irregardless of what it is on,once the fuel in it has begun to evaporate and thicken.A bad carb clean can have bad results. I use a Safety Clean commercial product,pretty strong,and have both accidentally AND purposely left metal only parts in this solution for as many as four days with no noticeable damage to the castings,but this may cause some pitting on softer metal welsh plugs,and it can etch brass .Only do these longer dips for carbs that CANNOT be replaced,or the carb cleaner/air method has little effect on dried up fuel,(and if you are an experienced,capable technician). And again,as you pointed out,metal and plastic parts only in acid,it will compromise rubber,I.E throttle shaft seals,bowl gaskets,etc.One important thing to remember,though,(users pay attention,you can save yourselves a lot of downtime,money and aggravation),is that a DRY carburetor or fuel system will NEVER need much,if any cleaning after any length of storage.Always drain a fuel system DRY for long term storage,and you will NEVER reach the point of needing this kind of service. IF you have a steel tank,you must keep it wet to prevent rust,but plastic will always be better off dry. I have made a large amount of money cleaning carbs and fuel systems over a long span of time that wouldn't have been necessary by using proper equipment and fuel storage methods.This applies for anything using any hydrocarbon fuel, (gasoline,diesel fuel,alcohol),that will be subjected to long periods of storage or non-use.Don't let the fuel evaporate!
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work.. Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru. You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes. I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
Great info. Knew all that just never thought to apply to carbs. I use it on rusted tools and firearm parts. One additional step would be a baking soda/h2O dip to neutralize any remaining acid.
Thank you, I've been fighting carburetors my whole damn life. If it's not a vehicle it's a motorcycle, quad, tractor, lawn mower, rototiller. I mean almost constantly fighting carburetors. Bought a ultrasonic cleaner just to clean carburetors. Wasn't impressed with it either. I will definitely try this. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
This is the shit you wanta know. Muriatic acid has some great qualities. Just have to respect it.used alot of it in my mason tending days. Great information, keep it coming. Thanks
First thanks for serving in the military and second thanks for sharing this tip. I have been very dissatisfied with the over the counter carburetor cleaner gallon can and baskets out there. They are not what they used to be. Thanks!
Found a model 6919 Holley 600 at a garage sale for 5 bucks, pretty dirty and discolored, surface corrosion etc but for 5 bucks hell ya I'm trying this now. Thanks for the video! Awesome man.
Thanks Ronnie for the video /mixed 2 gallons of water with 1 1/2 pints of muriatic acid. total change in about 10 minutes. note this carburetor looked like frosting it was so caked with white corrosion inside. Clean and re dipped a second time for 5 minutes. Total cleanliness in 15 to 20 minutes. Thanks again Ronnie
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Back in the 80’s I use to use Berryman’s but it is not the same formula today. Back then just the oder was enough to strip carbs clean. If you got any of it on you it took weeks for the smell to fade away. It was horrible but it worked great.
Remember: "Add acid to water, just like you otter!" This is an important thing to remember and a good phrase to help remember. Doing it the other way can actually cause the acid to explode outward, and it's very nasty stuff.
Hi Ronnie. Great Video!! I'm a shop owner & have been looking for a good carb cleaner for years. We used to have great cleaners in this industry until the EPA killed them all. Always wondered about acid but never tried it. Now I will! This is a Great Help Thanks for spending the time to bring this to all of us!
Great video. You should put baking soda in your rinse water to neutralize the acid. That carbon looks awesome. Putting aluminum in muriatic acid, undiluted will produce hydrogen and a lot of heat as well. Just a fun fact.
Glad you posted this & I appreciate it. Very good video; direct to the point with no stupid background noise or unnecessary and unrelated conversation. Thanks, great job.
Cleaned out autolite 2100 on 69 Bronco with berry man's about 3 cans selector switch had rust ran good until I switched tanks something got thru plugged up power valve (new) need to give another spritzing should be okay she hadn't run in over 13 yrs. sounded good no sticky lifters marvel mystery oil and berry man's italian tune up vice grips garage slogan,,👍😊✌️🤔
@@milotorres6894 marvel mystery oil is the bomb! I bought late model chevy 6.0 truck for engine core.it ticked bad and smoked up the whole neighborhood when you started it. Ran 8, oz. MMO in it for about a week and shazam! It unstuck the ring I guess.no more smoking.that was 3 yrs ago.still using it for farm truck to this day.had to buy another core engine.lol
You sir are a true inspiration, Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, if you ever come down under you can see the same results, I followed your steps. Couldn’t be happier
I just used this method on 2 holley 660's. Absolutely awesome. This is the best method there is. Thanks for posting this. One of the best videos i have ever seen on TH-cam.
Coast Guard vet here, Vietnam era old fart and gearhead, you've got another sub. I appreciate your passing along the carb cleaning method as I've built my share of carbs through the years and continue to do so. I can remember a time when the available carb cleaner solution was effective, but I guess too many idiots couldn't follow instructions and the government stepped in and made piss out of it.
Very cool. Several of my projects require carburetor cleaning and rebuild which I have been dreading. Working with the usual highly volatile solvents is not so good for your health to put it lightly. This idea revitalizes my enthusiasm for tackling the carburetor conundrum. Thank you Ronnie. Your propensity for detail kept me glued to the screen. Keep up the good work sir thank you for your service.
Good job on your video, Ronnie. I wish everybody did them this well. You say exactly what needs to be done (and how to do it) and none of the BS'ing or bragging that is so prevalent on youtube how-tos. Carry on!
Great explanation on using acid safely. I've used muratic acid to break loose so many different rusted together items. From the center shaft of a coats tire machine to the turnover ball assembly of a gooseneck hitch that was so rusted in I picked up the whole truck dangling from the ball and heating it with a rose bud and it would not budge. 30 min after soaking muratic acid down the ball assembly it pulled out with my hand! Of course, this stuff is quite caustic so every precaution needs to be taken. I've also used red devil lye diluted to clean steel and aluminum. But it will damage aluminum if not diluted property and amount of time in the solution strictly controlled. Thanks for the great video!
Ron From Tulsa, I have a 1970 Fiat 850 Sports Spyder with a Weber 30 DICA carburetor. I have rebuilt the carburetor several times since I purchased the car in 1983. However, this time will be a little different. I will be zinc plating the steel parts. I will be cleaning the carb body with ultrasonic cleaner and mag wheel cleaner. Several you Tubes have done this however I may be zinc plating the aluminum carb body also. As for the steel parts I will be using a vibrating tumbler. First to clean then to zinc plate with yellow chromate solution. Zinc is to prevent the corrosion problems shortly after cleaning. I am in the electrical field and have plated many different items. I have not done Zinc but have silver plated. It may seem that I will be going to an extreme, but I was willing to buy new until I saw prices from 400 to 800 for a carburetor done the way I am going to do this one. If you would like I will keep you in the loop as to the outcome.
I am on the east coast of Canada so know all about cold and dreary. I am on my way tomorrow for a jug of muriatic acid. I rebuild and restore old outboards and some Tecumseh and Briggs engines. I have a sonic cleaner and have tried MANY so called cleaners...THAT carb looks GREAT. Great vid Ron.
Stunning work and info! Hydrochloric acid (Muratic/stomach acid) does remove everything. But it is very bad for iron, because it causes rapid rusting of the iron after it removes the rust. You can use Phosphoric acid after cleaning steel to remove the invisible rust and seal the metal by creating a thin layer of black iron on the metal, which prevents rapid rusting. Phosphoric acid must be used instead of Muratic acid, on iron parts, unless there is no other way to clean the rust. Evaporust works very well too, the liquid, and it removes rust very well without causing rapid rusting afterwards. Citric acid and Acetic acid also passivate and seal iron, instead of creating rapid rusting like Muratic acid. If you don't have anything, using vinegar (acetic acid) is good for iron parts and won't cause long term rusting and damage. Phosphoric acid/citric acid/acetic acid lightly passivate iron and protect it from rusting. You can also use these acids on stainless steel, with Phosphoric acid and Citric acid being the best for stainless, they passivate the stainless. Muratic acid, does not passviate steel or stainless steel, so it will rust or stain later when exposed to light moisture. This carburetor looks absolutely amazing! I'm only sharing this information because it may be relevant for people trying to clean steel parts.
Mr Ritalie I work in the metal machining and grinding case harden steels, we temper etch (Nital Etch steels) for burns,(Over Temper or re hardening), the trick is, clean with hydrochloric an water or alcohol, alcohol is preferred over water, it does not cause a condition called hydrogen embrittlement in harden steel, or it can be baked after etching to prevent embrittlement, after etching in acid requires a solution of sodium carbonate (Baking soda) to neutralize the acid, and prevent surface deterioration from the improper neutralization. then clean in hot water , then dip in oil to prevent corrosion. (rust) there more to this but for cleaning the above is all that is needed. any thing etched has to be neutralized then water rinsed and then dipped into a corrosion prevention. cast iron is a weird animal since it is high carbon, and will react different and detrimental. God Bless
@@rexmericle5068 hey Rex does the vinegar clean out the varnished gas in the tiny passages? Will overnight be enough? How about warming it slightly on the stove? Thanks
@@daveg2199 hi Dave it depends on how bad the build up is. What I generally do is disassemble the carb and leave it in vinegar for about two days. If you have heavy varnish I suggest pushing some carb cleaner through the various ports with all the brass parts out. It's always worked for me. I would think warming up the vinegar to soften up the varnish is a good idea. I have to tell you that the carbs I've worked on over the last 10 years are motorcycle carbs which are VERY "finicky" by comparison. Nice about vinegar, you can strain it through a coffee filter and reuse it and when it gets dark you can just pour it out on the ground.
You're carburetor series has helped me tremendously, I have a 4160 that needs rebuilt and I've been putting off due to fear, but now that thing is as good as rebuilt
Battery acid already has water added to it. The rule is for the laboratory or if you do not know the concentration of the acid. Adding a couple of drops of water to some pure acids will cause the water to boil(turn to a gas)
Subscribed, good tip and presentation. Retired mechanic who hangs in the shop. Currently doing a 383 (chev) and have a 1957 283 willing to part with...
I have been cleaning my carburetors by putting lacquer cleaner in my almost empty gas tank: a pint is most always enough. I run the engine after using starter fluid to get it going. The lacquer cleaner dissolves all the varnish, and gunk from even the smallest passageways. This method has never failed me!
You're the man, this stuff also cleans seashells very well too. It does dissolve ferrous metals though (acid porting manifolds), and will destroy all stainless in my experience (stainless and high carbon tweezers rotted away after dropping in the tub)
I have been using muriatic acid on lawnmower engines carbs for 20 years. I used it full strength, maybe I was wrong. I now use it on my water filtration system for cleaning. It works great on iron staining.
I am working on a Suzuki Katana 600 that has been out under sun and rain for over 3 or more years, and now I am starting to work on the carburetors, I have seen many videos about cleaning carburetors, but this one definitely convinced me LOLm thanks for this great video, even 3 years later it is useful for many people, I am on my way to buy the Aces at the hardware store and let you know later if it worked for my motorcycle carburetors.
I normally prefer watching the steps being done as the person talks, but you did an amazing job describing the process, cost, tools, etc. 5 star video. Great job. Earned my subscribe and like for sure!
@@ronniehenson4122 I used your method to clean the carb on my 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp outboard. It worked great! I had to make some other adjustments with my fuel lines but I finally got it running! This was my first outboard I've ever worked on and didn't even know what a point was going into it haha. Feeling pretty accomplished right now! I'm going to take it out on the water tomorrow. I expect some more work on it but...she runs! I'll try and post a video of how she does out there!
This is great! I remember in the 80's building small blocks and Holley and Carter Carbs were what we used. I remember using lots of carb clean, wish I knew about this then, but then again all we had back then was Chiltons no You Tube!
Ronnie i know some people are complaning about balck scale but i gotta say i did this to 3 carburators so far and man o men it works great! i love it tanks a lot and keep up the good work
Muriatic Acid will eat aluminum so be careful, don't make the concentration too strong and don't leave something you care about unattended. That said, when it's diluted correctly it's a great cleaning tool. Thanks for the video. P.S. Use it outside and avoid breathing the fumes....don't learn the hard way.
You earned my subscription with your straight forward information Thank you for taking the time Would like to see a video of you soda blasting and set up
Firstly , Thank You for your service ! Second wow that's a cool trick ! Thirdly thanks for sharing the Acid into water and not the other way around ! 👍
been using a ultrasonic cleaner with water, dawn and lemi shine on small carburetors for years, think I will give muriatic solution a try. Excellent video Ronnie. Always looking for a better idea
Johnny Here from Northwest Oklahoma... working on an RV I received in “ Needs TLC” condition. The carb is a Holley list#50278-1, which I’ve done a little research and believe it is a 4180. It would just pour gas out when I tried to start it. So, my adventure into carb rebuilding begins. Thanks for sharing this great bit of knowledge. I’m about to have the best looking 1988 Holley on the block!😎
When The Statue of Liberty was renovated a few years ago, they tried several kinds of blasting media, nothing so aggressive that it took off the metal, but aggressive enough to remove the dirt and corrosion. They ended up using baking soda.
Thanks Ronnie. In spite of your suggestion to put the used acid down the toilet I think it might screw up my septic tank. I have some stumps out front - NO just joling. Wondering what I can do with used acid. Thanks again for your effort.
That is AWSOME Ronnie, I knew that there had to be a better way and cheaper!! My thing is Vintage Chainsaws, I spend a lot of money on cleaner, I've been thinking muriatic acid, but I was a bit gun shy, The parts are not cheap, compared to the profit margin.. this is the first video of yours that I've seen, I'm gonna look for more.. I do like that you explained the process, rather than drag it out with recording the actual, thanks again!!
Hey Ronnie, First off, thank you for your service from one vet to another. I could only tolerate 4 years of USN duty, but am honored to have served none the less. I haven't tried your method yet but was interested enough to watch the whole video. I've used distilled white vinegar with distilled water mixed 1 - 1 depending on how much mix is needed to submerge the parts. I really like the soda blast tip at the end and will have to try it. Another way I've used to spark the outside up before reassembly is to take Lava soap and dissolve it into a paste thinner than toothpaste and use a toothbrush to polish the outside surfaces. It takes a bit more time, but if you try it on a small area, I believe you'll be impressed. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience, it really helps a lot of people get their projects done. Stay safe.
Good evening Gary, could you please elaborate on how you used Lava Soap as a finishing compound to polish the outside of the carburetor!? I’m fixing to rebuild my carburetors and I like the idea of using the Lava Soap. Does it turn into foam after brushing it on and then you rinse it off!? Thank you very much in advance. Also thank you very much Ronnie and everyone else for your service!
Thank you Brother for saving me time and money. I'm up in the Kansas City area was getting frustrated looking for alternatives to the good carburetor cleaners that were available in the 70's & 80's. Thx to your video, I liked & subscribed and will look no further!👍🙏
Great video Ronnie! Im rebuilding a 76 BMW R75/6, and the carbs are varnished up and icky sticky. On my way to pool supply today! Keep up the good work!
Oh heck yeah. Great video. Reading down further I totally agree. This is the way to do it. Reversed image, reading backwards, but still great. Thanks. Take care Ronnie.
Might want to try ‘Purple Power’ full strength as a soak also. Just let the carb body and parts soak overnight and rinse off. Does an excellent job cleaning and doesn’t cause any dulling of the aluminum finish. More expensive but also easy to get rid of the leftovers.
I soaked my Motorcraft 2150 2-barrel in full strength Purple Power for about 2 hours today and it appeared to be eating the aluminum body. Took a LOT of scrubbing to get it cleaned up, that's why I'm here watching a video about using muriatic acid to clean the parts.
Thanks man! Love this method, was military too, Jet mechanic. Cool results, I see nothing wrong at all with this process, cool idea!😊 thanks again buddy!
Best video I have seen in 2 days of binge watching You Tube !! Keep up the great educational video Ronnie I appreciate you sharing that knowledge . Greg White from Fremont , California.
Thanks for posting this information. I'd like to have seen the float bowls after cleaning. They never seem to get completely clean with your regular carb dip. I bought a Buell that sat for a couple of years and the inside if that carb looked like apple brown betty. Weird, I know. But all I did was disassemble and clean it just to see if it would run. Now I have a kit and I'll do it the right way this time. I will try this method.
This is one of those TH-cam videos that show what TH-cam SHOULD be. Video - EXTREMELY helpful, clear, easy, lists what you will need, a great explanation. PERFECT.
Wow, thanks!
Ronnie, I tried your water and acid ....mixed it as you said and my carburetor ended up developing black gray scale....I’m not impressed
@@stevenbowers1513 was it hot or cold water?
@@HeatherWelk Cold
I agree only if they were all this well explained, very nice video
Watched this three years ago worked so well I'm back 3 years later to make sure I'm doing it right again haha
Thanks!
Dedicated
It's now 2024, and that $ 2 gallon of Muriatic Acid is now $ 7.50 a gallon
Who says there's no inflation?
Same!
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Excellent Ronnie love it no music blaring no intro logos just the simple facts thank you!
Glad you liked it
Thanks for sharing 👍
Tech for 50 years- 38 as a shop owner. If you have a carb that the air adjustment(s) do not change the mixture try this.
Old school way is to use a mixture of white vinigar and water (approx 30/70) and put the disassembled parts in a slow cooker on low over night. Works especially good at disolving the salts created by moisture in the fuel more especially by ethanol that carb cleaners won't touch.
Clean the as much grime and gunk as much as possible before the soak.
Mint. I wonder if a pressure cooker would work better.
Great instructions and step by step explanations. Been doing this for years on various auto parts. My only suggestion is to add a couple of rounded tablespoons of baking soda to your rinse water to neutralize the acid.
Yeah buddy. First time we did this many moons since, and water rinsed, weeks later the truck came in and could see vapor still coming off the carb! (Do use a baking soda rinse)!
New subscriber here. Old time carburetor guy (I'm 71 years old). Today both of my vehicles are fuel injection.
That carb looks new. Nice job. I don't know what a new carb costs today. Back in the day they were $60/70 dollars. In the 60's that is...
Enjoy your no BS video, and waiting for more. Thanks, from warm Florida.
Thanks for the sub!
Hey Ronnie this German thanks you for serving,The memory I have from Muriatic Acid was my First job at 18 when I first came to the US First off Muriatic Acid is the most foul smell I ever whiffed that includes my Morning shift in the Bathroom😂 I worked as a Painter in Monterey California and my Boss told me I would be in charge of Cleaning the Half tile Roof of the Monterey Hospital of Pidgeon shit and Mildew ,large job I used a Pump sprayer container soaking the Tiles and then using a Power washer,this worked very well and cleaned the tiles like new ,though now I look at how Dangerous this was without my Boss telling me the Danger,the Drunk didn’t care about my Safety anyhow the smell stays in my memory and will now clean my 6 pack 340 Challenger motor Carbs
Cheers from West of Chicago
I did this exact process to a Holly carb thats was on a 1964 Rambler 327 V8 I bought from a junkyard. That carb was original equipment and I wanted to keep the engine that way. It workd perfectly once I refreshed it with new gaskets!! Plus it looked like new. I love restoring old things. They just work so nice.
The “original” Berrymans Chem Dip was cresylic acid with an additive that created a boundry layer to minimize evaporation. Worked extremely well. At some point the formula was changed probably due to EPA regs. Stunk like hell, was rough on skin and worked best when heated (hot tank). This is a great alternative and economical IF you follow Ronnies instructions. Good job Ronnie!
Thank you!
Nice product, my husband has a Carburetor rebuilding business for 36 years and he has tried everything out there. The best product he has found to date is called Pro 300 made for ultrasonic machines.Needs to be about 165 deg, and water rinse. Good luck with the acid.
Thanks!
WOW! New tool! Years ago Berryman's products worked fine until they changed the formula due to pressure from the nanny state. Thanks for posting this new to me information.
Looks like it worked GREAT! 😎
You probably won’t get this but I have been building engines and wrenching on cars and trucks for over 50 years and I have never heard about this. Absolutely great info and even though it’s 5 years old you can bet I watched every bit of it. Vet here also. Thanks brother!
Thanks brother! Glad you enjoyed it.
First off, Thank You For Your Service SIr.
Second, this is an absolute PERFECT video. Thanks for this valuable information.
Glad it was helpful!
Ronnie that special water & acid mix did do a BEAUTIFUL JOB on that old Holley 4 barrel!!!!!!!!! It looks even better than when it was brand spanking new right out of the box!!!!!!!! I bet that would work wonders for even an old GM Quadrajet 4 barrel!!!!!!! Just a simple acid & water mix! Who even knew???? I’m 56 & I have always messed with cars & it just goes to show that you’re NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW! Thanks for the video!
Thank You Mr. Ron!
I'm now stoked to be hunting down a double pumper on Craigslist for a song, and all will be well. As the son of a Vietnam Veteran, THANK YOU for your service.
Ur a great guy no joke. No one explains it like u. Thank u for doing it.
I appreciate that!
@@ronniehenson4122 it's just the truth👍
Thank you for sharing. I'm a contractor and my hobby is rebuilding old cars and trucks. I have used muratic acid to clean away oil and grease from concrete with really good results before painting with epoxy. The epoxy run about 100 bucks a gallon so you need good results or it's going to get expensive. And my customers won't be giving me a good referral. I will definitely give this a try. And thank you for your service. Our Son gave all.
Have you tried staining concrete with iron sulphate which is cheap and typical fertiliser?
Google it and look at the examples it's pretty impressive with some people have done.
No preparation is actually a requirement, as over cleaning in etching it doesn't work as well.
It's way cheaper easier and looks good, Especially for low budget job
I am rebuilding a chevy scottsdale 4x4 right now. I keep a large home depot bucket of muriatic acid. 50/50 to water. All my metal parts go into it but...note to everyone. Have a good way to pull the part out and a way not to drip acid all over the place. Also, acid will clean that metal up slick as snot but it will not touch anything with grease or dirt on it so clean first. Lastly...eye protection! drop something in a bucket and that splash can hit ya right in the eyes. Thank you Ronnie for this video!! I never thought of using this for a carburetor and I have a 78 quadrajet that is dirty as can be.
The guys at work use a muriatic acid solution to clean all aluminum on the big trucks. They just spray it on with a pump sprayer then let sit then they power wash it off. Makes the trucks look like new money. Never thought about using to clean a carb. Nice
Just worked a treat on my 1952 (same age as me ) L.E. velocette, here in the UK. Nicely presented video too,without all the shouting and waved around camera. And straight to the point, thanks for it, i did my cylinder heads too. Look great.
First I thank you for your service Sir. I worked for Holley as a machinist for years and will tell you that all the "body" parts on a Holley carburetor are solid zinc. Excellent video, thank you.
Thanks for sharing
@@ronniehenson4122 I certainly learned something here. I never once thought of using muriatic acid for a carb cleaner. I have soaked steel and cast iron in a solution of water and 10% molasses. Takes about a week but works amazingly well. My most recent rust removal was the inside of a very rusted motorcycle tank Thanks again.
I love these little tricks to beat big companies, selling expensive Products. When some of the cheapest stuff out there gets it done! Very Nice!
this was one of the best solutions ever used, I used this method and solution to clean my VW EGR Valve kit, it dissolved all carbon buildup and made it look new. THANKS
Excellent!
A++, been cleaning mechanical parts for 65 years and had a hard time replacing the old cleaners that are now illegal (carbon tetra chloride etc etc) tried everything that auto stores said would work,,,,,nothing did a really good job,,,,soooo glad to find this video, never thought of trying your solution. Always thought it would be too strong to even try it 🙏🙏🙏🙏thank you from an “old fart” whom still likes “really clean” carburetors, manifolds, etc…thank you
I'm about to embark on rebuilding an old 650 double pumper that was sitting on an engine for about 23 years. Was looking for an inexpensive solution to cleaning it back to new and I just found it. THANK YOU!
AND THANKS FOR YOUR SERVICE SIR!
Thank you! Good luck
Thank you for your service to our country. And, thanks for explaining as you did - without any of that coarse language that embarrasses. I appreciate you.
Much appreciated
Yes, I have used muriatic acid to clean and rebuild motorcycle carbs for years and it works great!
Thank you so much. I am a carburetor type person and this video was just what I need. I have used smelly , corrosive carb. cleaner and hot water for years, this is much better. Videos on your method of carb. rebuilding would be great.
Check my channel and you will see the rebuild video
I’m a machinist, thanks for the great video, right to the point! muriatic acid can be used to remove broken taps, drills, screws etc from aluminum. It won’t hurt the aluminum, but will literally rust out the offending tap. All you need to do is build a wall around the hole to pour in the acid, use modeling clay, not play dough! Or silicone caulking like the stuff you use to fix your fish tank. Once it’s dry, pour in the acid, it will bubble as it eats the tap, when it stops, poke it with a paper clip to get it working again. This process might take a day depending how much steel you need burned out. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
I use muriatic acid to eat aluminum from seized pistons off the steel liner of motorcycle and ATV cylinders because it will dissolve the aluminum without damaging the steel/cast iron - it will remove broken taps and such by eating the aluminum/zink (white metal) away from broken steel. It will cause rust on steel, but only surface rust.
Come on, guys, ph doesn't get much lower so it likes anything metallic.
Hydrochloric Acid 37%
MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Aluminum D - Poor
Bronze D - Poor
Carbon Steel D - Poor
Carpenter 20 D - Poor
Cast iron D - Poor
Copper D - Poor
Nylon D - Poor
Polycarbonate D - Poor
Polyurethane D - Poor
PPS (Ryton®) D - Poor
stainless steel - 304 D - Poor
stainless steel - 316 D - Poor
Titanium D - Poor
Once it gets through the oxide layer, it's off to the races. th-cam.com/video/ZLz4bSXcuYY/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful, much appreciated 👍🏾
That’s fucking cool
Wonder if it will hurt brass? I’ve got a Honda carb with a compression brass inlet and seat that Honda doesn’t make replacements for….
I found this just in time... tore my Quadrajet apart & it's in bad need of cleaning... I think I'm gonna give this a whirl.. thanks mate!!! Excellent video
A little baking soda in the cleaning water will neutralize the acid on the carb. Great tip. Hello from the "east side of Oklahoma".
thanks for the extra info
Great tip, Ronnie! I'm a long time automotive and power-sports tech,and this is the ONLY way to properly clean a badly "gummed up" carb, irregardless of what it is on,once the fuel in it has begun to evaporate and thicken.A bad carb clean can have bad results. I use a Safety Clean commercial product,pretty strong,and have both accidentally AND purposely left metal only parts in this solution for as many as four days with no noticeable damage to the castings,but this may cause some pitting on softer metal welsh plugs,and it can etch brass .Only do these longer dips for carbs that CANNOT be replaced,or the carb cleaner/air method has little effect on dried up fuel,(and if you are an experienced,capable technician). And again,as you pointed out,metal and plastic parts only in acid,it will compromise rubber,I.E throttle shaft seals,bowl gaskets,etc.One important thing to remember,though,(users pay attention,you can save yourselves a lot of downtime,money and aggravation),is that a DRY carburetor or fuel system will NEVER need much,if any cleaning after any length of storage.Always drain a fuel system DRY for long term storage,and you will NEVER reach the point of needing this kind of service. IF you have a steel tank,you must keep it wet to prevent rust,but plastic will always be better off dry. I have made a large amount of money cleaning carbs and fuel systems over a long span of time that wouldn't have been necessary by using proper equipment and fuel storage methods.This applies for anything using any hydrocarbon fuel, (gasoline,diesel fuel,alcohol),that will be subjected to long periods of storage or non-use.Don't let the fuel evaporate!
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes.
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
Great info. Knew all that just never thought to apply to carbs. I use it on rusted tools and firearm parts. One additional step would be a baking soda/h2O dip to neutralize any remaining acid.
I’ve used denatured alcohol to neutralize acid with good results. As well. No powder residue.
I will have to try it on rusted tools, thank you for the advice 😊
Thank you, I've been fighting carburetors my whole damn life. If it's not a vehicle it's a motorcycle, quad, tractor, lawn mower, rototiller. I mean almost constantly fighting carburetors. Bought a ultrasonic cleaner just to clean carburetors. Wasn't impressed with it either. I will definitely try this. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I bet if you can devise a way to make the acid bath vibrate it will work even better
I can see I'm not alone in that fight... Hahahahaja
Thank you sir for your service and thank you for taking this old hotrodder back 50 years great knowledge
Our pleasure!
This is the shit you wanta know. Muriatic acid has some great qualities. Just have to respect it.used alot of it in my mason tending days. Great information, keep it coming. Thanks
First thanks for serving in the military and second thanks for sharing this tip. I have been very dissatisfied with the over the counter carburetor cleaner gallon can and baskets out there. They are not what they used to be. Thanks!
I had a 350 bord .080 over
Thanks for publishing this. I've been working on motorcycles for the last 50 years. I use Sulfuric acid (20:80 water) to achieve the same result.
Found a model 6919 Holley 600 at a garage sale for 5 bucks, pretty dirty and discolored, surface corrosion etc but for 5 bucks hell ya I'm trying this now. Thanks for the video! Awesome man.
Thanks Ronnie for the video /mixed 2 gallons of water with 1 1/2 pints of muriatic acid. total change in about 10 minutes. note this carburetor looked like frosting it was so caked with white corrosion inside. Clean and re dipped a second time for 5 minutes. Total cleanliness in 15 to 20 minutes. Thanks again Ronnie
Thank you!
how's it look? any damage ?
@@bmw5050 Looks and runs great, no damage. The steel parts need to have some WD-40 sprayed on them or light rust will appear.
Works great..I watched this video five years ago, put my 4 barrel rochester quadrajet carb in my firehouse subs $3 bucket just as you instructed, went out to the garage today to my little time capsule...well....no carb, just disappeared to atmosphere, maybe the pickle juice? hopefully getting an edelbrock this Christmas.
Back in the 80’s I use to use Berryman’s but it is not the same formula today. Back then just the oder was enough to strip carbs clean. If you got any of it on you it took weeks for the smell to fade away. It was horrible but it worked great.
I HAVE USED THAT PROCEDURE FOR YEARS WITH TOTAL SUCCESS, THANK YOU FOR TRIGGERING MY MEMORY, RETIRED CANADIAN DISABLED VETERAN👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😊
You just earned yourself a new subscriber for being honest and having a good heart trying to save folks some $$$. Thank you sir and GOD bless you!!!
Awesome! God bless you too!
Remember: "Add acid to water, just like you otter!" This is an important thing to remember and a good phrase to help remember. Doing it the other way can actually cause the acid to explode outward, and it's very nasty stuff.
From an Army Vet to another Military Vet, thx for the great vid. Can't wait to try it out.
Thanks for your service
Hi Ronnie. Great Video!! I'm a shop owner & have been looking for a good carb cleaner for years. We used to have great cleaners in this industry until the EPA killed them all. Always wondered about acid but never tried it. Now I will! This is a Great Help Thanks for spending the time to bring this to all of us!
Great video. You should put baking soda in your rinse water to neutralize the acid. That carbon looks awesome. Putting aluminum in muriatic acid, undiluted will produce hydrogen and a lot of heat as well. Just a fun fact.
Well done sir! First time I've heard of using muriatic acid. Same on the soda blast. I'm a subscriber now. 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad you posted this & I appreciate it. Very good video; direct to the point with no stupid background noise or unnecessary and unrelated conversation. Thanks, great job.
I appreciate that!
I'm also retired vet and I appreciate the information I've had a hard time cleaning these carburetors thank!!
Thank you and thanks for you service
Cleaned out autolite 2100 on 69 Bronco with berry man's about 3 cans selector switch had rust ran good until I switched tanks something got thru plugged up power valve (new) need to give another spritzing should be okay she hadn't run in over 13 yrs. sounded good no sticky lifters marvel mystery oil and berry man's italian tune up vice grips garage slogan,,👍😊✌️🤔
@@milotorres6894 marvel mystery oil is the bomb! I bought late model chevy 6.0 truck for engine core.it ticked bad and smoked up the whole neighborhood when you started it. Ran 8, oz. MMO in it for about a week and shazam! It unstuck the ring I guess.no more smoking.that was 3 yrs ago.still using it for farm truck to this day.had to buy another core engine.lol
You sir are a true inspiration,
Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, if you ever come down under you can see the same results, I followed your steps. Couldn’t be happier
Thanks!
I just used this method on 2 holley 660's. Absolutely awesome. This is the best method there is. Thanks for posting this. One of the best videos i have ever seen on TH-cam.
Glad it helped!
Coast Guard vet here, Vietnam era old fart and gearhead, you've got another sub. I appreciate your passing along the carb cleaning method as I've built my share of carbs through the years and continue to do so. I can remember a time when the available carb cleaner solution was effective, but I guess too many idiots couldn't follow instructions and the government stepped in and made piss out of it.
Very cool. Several of my projects require carburetor cleaning and rebuild which I have been dreading. Working with the usual highly volatile solvents is not so good for your health to put it lightly. This idea revitalizes my enthusiasm for tackling the carburetor conundrum. Thank you Ronnie. Your propensity for detail kept me glued to the screen. Keep up the good work sir thank you for your service.
Thank you!
Good job on your video, Ronnie. I wish everybody did them this well. You say exactly what needs to be done (and how to do it) and none of the BS'ing or bragging that is so prevalent on youtube how-tos. Carry on!
Thank you!
Great explanation on using acid safely. I've used muratic acid to break loose so many different rusted together items. From the center shaft of a coats tire machine to the turnover ball assembly of a gooseneck hitch that was so rusted in I picked up the whole truck dangling from the ball and heating it with a rose bud and it would not budge. 30 min after soaking muratic acid down the ball assembly it pulled out with my hand! Of course, this stuff is quite caustic so every precaution needs to be taken. I've also used red devil lye diluted to clean steel and aluminum. But it will damage aluminum if not diluted property and amount of time in the solution strictly controlled. Thanks for the great video!
Ron From Tulsa, I have a 1970 Fiat 850 Sports Spyder with a Weber 30 DICA carburetor. I have rebuilt the carburetor several times since I purchased the car in 1983. However, this time will be a little different. I will be zinc plating the steel parts. I will be cleaning the carb body with ultrasonic cleaner and mag wheel cleaner. Several you Tubes have done this however I may be zinc plating the aluminum carb body also. As for the steel parts I will be using a vibrating tumbler. First to clean then to zinc plate with yellow chromate solution. Zinc is to prevent the corrosion problems shortly after cleaning. I am in the electrical field and have plated many different items. I have not done Zinc but have silver plated. It may seem that I will be going to an extreme, but I was willing to buy new until I saw prices from 400 to 800 for a carburetor done the way I am going to do this one. If you would like I will keep you in the loop as to the outcome.
Yes, please do! Thanks!
I am on the east coast of Canada so know all about cold and dreary. I am on my way tomorrow for a jug of muriatic acid. I rebuild and restore old outboards and some Tecumseh and Briggs engines. I have a sonic cleaner and have tried MANY so called cleaners...THAT carb looks GREAT. Great vid Ron.
Thanks!
Stunning work and info! Hydrochloric acid (Muratic/stomach acid) does remove everything. But it is very bad for iron, because it causes rapid rusting of the iron after it removes the rust. You can use Phosphoric acid after cleaning steel to remove the invisible rust and seal the metal by creating a thin layer of black iron on the metal, which prevents rapid rusting. Phosphoric acid must be used instead of Muratic acid, on iron parts, unless there is no other way to clean the rust. Evaporust works very well too, the liquid, and it removes rust very well without causing rapid rusting afterwards. Citric acid and Acetic acid also passivate and seal iron, instead of creating rapid rusting like Muratic acid. If you don't have anything, using vinegar (acetic acid) is good for iron parts and won't cause long term rusting and damage. Phosphoric acid/citric acid/acetic acid lightly passivate iron and protect it from rusting. You can also use these acids on stainless steel, with Phosphoric acid and Citric acid being the best for stainless, they passivate the stainless. Muratic acid, does not passviate steel or stainless steel, so it will rust or stain later when exposed to light moisture. This carburetor looks absolutely amazing! I'm only sharing this information because it may be relevant for people trying to clean steel parts.
Mr Ritalie I work in the metal machining and grinding case harden steels, we temper etch (Nital Etch steels) for burns,(Over Temper or re hardening), the trick is, clean with hydrochloric an water or alcohol, alcohol is preferred over water, it does not cause a condition called hydrogen embrittlement in harden steel, or it can be baked after etching to prevent embrittlement,
after etching in acid requires a solution of sodium carbonate (Baking soda) to neutralize the acid, and prevent surface deterioration from the improper neutralization.
then clean in hot water , then dip in oil to prevent corrosion. (rust) there more to this but for cleaning the above is all that is needed. any thing etched has to be neutralized then water rinsed and then dipped into a corrosion prevention. cast iron is a weird animal since it is high carbon, and will react different and detrimental. God Bless
You are exactly right! Muriatic acid is for idiots! Use phosphoric acid.
I've used vinegar for years. Cheap and easy provide you're patient.
@@rexmericle5068 hey Rex does the vinegar clean out the varnished gas in the tiny passages? Will overnight be enough? How about warming it slightly on the stove? Thanks
@@daveg2199 hi Dave it depends on how bad the build up is. What I generally do is disassemble the carb and leave it in vinegar for about two days. If you have heavy varnish I suggest pushing some carb cleaner through the various ports with all the brass parts out. It's always worked for me. I would think warming up the vinegar to soften up the varnish is a good idea. I have to tell you that the carbs I've worked on over the last 10 years are motorcycle carbs which are VERY "finicky" by comparison. Nice about vinegar, you can strain it through a coffee filter and reuse it and when it gets dark you can just pour it out on the ground.
You're carburetor series has helped me tremendously, I have a 4160 that needs rebuilt and I've been putting off due to fear, but now that thing is as good as rebuilt
Good luck!
"do as you oughta, add acid to water"...never forgot from science class in grade school! Great vid, Great idea!
Then, how can we add water to our batteries when we need to???
Battery acid already has water added to it. The rule is for the laboratory or if you do not know the concentration of the acid. Adding a couple of drops of water to some pure acids will cause the water to boil(turn to a gas)
Subscribed, good tip and presentation. Retired mechanic who hangs in the shop. Currently doing a 383 (chev) and have a 1957 283 willing to part with...
Enjoying your good work here in S.C. Mr. Henson, keep'em 'coming. I'm retar... retired also and have the time to watch them!
Very good video .
Much appreciated
I have been cleaning my carburetors by putting lacquer cleaner in my almost empty gas tank: a pint is most always enough. I run the engine after using starter fluid to get it going. The lacquer cleaner dissolves all the varnish, and gunk from even the smallest passageways. This method has never failed me!
You're the man, this stuff also cleans seashells very well too.
It does dissolve ferrous metals though (acid porting manifolds), and will destroy all stainless in my experience (stainless and high carbon tweezers rotted away after dropping in the tub)
I have been using muriatic acid on lawnmower engines carbs for 20 years. I used it full strength, maybe I was wrong. I now use it on my water filtration system for cleaning. It works great on iron staining.
I am working on a Suzuki Katana 600 that has been out under sun and rain for over 3 or more years, and now I am starting to work on the carburetors, I have seen many videos about cleaning carburetors, but this one definitely convinced me LOLm thanks for this great video, even 3 years later it is useful for many people, I am on my way to buy the Aces at the hardware store and let you know later if it worked for my motorcycle carburetors.
Good luck!
I normally prefer watching the steps being done as the person talks, but you did an amazing job describing the process, cost, tools, etc. 5 star video. Great job. Earned my subscribe and like for sure!
Thank you so much!
@@ronniehenson4122 I used your method to clean the carb on my 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp outboard. It worked great! I had to make some other adjustments with my fuel lines but I finally got it running! This was my first outboard I've ever worked on and didn't even know what a point was going into it haha. Feeling pretty accomplished right now! I'm going to take it out on the water tomorrow. I expect some more work on it but...she runs! I'll try and post a video of how she does out there!
This is great! I remember in the 80's building small blocks and Holley and Carter Carbs were what we used. I remember using lots of carb clean, wish I knew about this then, but then again all we had back then was Chiltons no You Tube!
Great point!
Yes Haynes and Chiltton manuals my early teacher.
@@oakcliffpride They were good teachers, that and experience.
I second that! Knowledge is power and performance.
Wow, been looking for something since the old dips were diluted. Thank you for this!
Ronnie i know some people are complaning about balck scale but i gotta say i did this to 3 carburators so far and man o men it works great! i love it tanks a lot and keep up the good work
Thanks for sharing
Muriatic Acid will eat aluminum so be careful, don't make the concentration too strong and don't leave something you care about unattended. That said, when it's diluted correctly it's a great cleaning tool. Thanks for the video.
P.S. Use it outside and avoid breathing the fumes....don't learn the hard way.
Also make sure your parts are completely submerged because anything above the surface of the acid will likely turn black or flash rust.
You earned my subscription with your straight forward information
Thank you for taking the time
Would like to see a video of you soda blasting and set up
Firstly , Thank You for your service ! Second wow that's a cool trick ! Thirdly thanks for sharing the Acid into water and not the other way around ! 👍
AAA....always add acid
been using a ultrasonic cleaner with water, dawn and lemi shine on small carburetors for years, think I will give muriatic solution a try. Excellent video Ronnie. Always looking for a better idea
Johnny Here from Northwest Oklahoma... working on an RV I received in “ Needs TLC” condition. The carb is a Holley list#50278-1, which I’ve done a little research and believe it is a 4180. It would just pour gas out when I tried to start it. So, my adventure into carb rebuilding begins. Thanks for sharing this great bit of knowledge. I’m about to have the best looking 1988 Holley on the block!😎
Ronnie! You did a great job presenting and explaining the video. I'm going to try it on my next rebuild.
Glad it helped
When The Statue of Liberty was renovated a few years ago, they tried several kinds of blasting media, nothing so aggressive that it took off the metal, but aggressive enough to remove the dirt and corrosion. They ended up using baking soda.
What a great tip. I'm not happy with the carb cleaners out there and this looks like the answer I've been looking for. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help, thank you!
Thanks Ronnie. In spite of your suggestion to put the used acid down the toilet I think it might screw up my septic tank. I have some stumps out front - NO just joling. Wondering what I can do with used acid. Thanks again for your effort.
That is AWSOME Ronnie, I knew that there had to be a better way and cheaper!! My thing is Vintage Chainsaws, I spend a lot of money on cleaner, I've been thinking muriatic acid, but I was a bit gun shy, The parts are not cheap, compared to the profit margin.. this is the first video of yours that I've seen, I'm gonna look for more.. I do like that you explained the process, rather than drag it out with recording the actual, thanks again!!
Hey Ronnie, First off, thank you for your service from one vet to another. I could only tolerate 4 years of USN duty, but am honored to have served none the less. I haven't tried your method yet but was interested enough to watch the whole video. I've used distilled white vinegar with distilled water mixed 1 - 1 depending on how much mix is needed to submerge the parts. I really like the soda blast tip at the end and will have to try it. Another way I've used to spark the outside up before reassembly is to take Lava soap and dissolve it into a paste thinner than toothpaste and use a toothbrush to polish the outside surfaces. It takes a bit more time, but if you try it on a small area, I believe you'll be impressed. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience, it really helps a lot of people get their projects done. Stay safe.
I've heard of using Crest Whitening toothpaste also. Your carb will shine AND have 32% less cavities...
Hooyah Navy brother.
Good evening Gary, could you please elaborate on how you used Lava Soap as a finishing compound to polish the outside of the carburetor!? I’m fixing to rebuild my carburetors and I like the idea of using the Lava Soap. Does it turn into foam after brushing it on and then you rinse it off!? Thank you very much in advance.
Also thank you very much Ronnie and everyone else for your service!
Love the old Craftsman box you have. Perhaps a tool box tour ?
Might just do that. Thanks!
Man you make me feel bad for not researching this for the last year or so. Great video better than just boiling it in vinegar water!
Thank you Brother for saving me time and money. I'm up in the Kansas City area was getting frustrated looking for alternatives to the good carburetor cleaners that were available in the 70's & 80's. Thx to your video, I liked & subscribed and will look no further!👍🙏
I agree with "V". Been wondering what to clean those nasty carbs with, since 1980, to make them look like new. Thanks for the enlightening video.
Glad to help
I found that aluminum wheel cleaner works wonders. It’s acidic for break dust which does the job on gunk but safe on aluminum finishes.
Very nicely done. No questions left unanswered - thank you!
From the time this video started I was like that carb looks brand NEW!!
Great video Ronnie! Im rebuilding a 76 BMW R75/6, and the carbs are varnished up and icky sticky. On my way to pool supply today! Keep up the good work!
Oh heck yeah. Great video. Reading down further I totally agree. This is the way to do it. Reversed image, reading backwards, but still great. Thanks. Take care Ronnie.
Might want to try ‘Purple Power’ full strength as a soak also. Just let the carb body and parts soak overnight and rinse off. Does an excellent job cleaning and doesn’t cause any dulling of the aluminum finish. More expensive but also easy to get rid of the leftovers.
Thanks for the tip!
I soaked my Motorcraft 2150 2-barrel in full strength Purple Power for about 2 hours today and it appeared to be eating the aluminum body. Took a LOT of scrubbing to get it cleaned up, that's why I'm here watching a video about using muriatic acid to clean the parts.
Great tip. Retired military here also. ASE Master Tech.
Bad ass ain't no denying it thanks for your service to our country and the carburator cleaner video
Thanks man! Love this method, was military too, Jet mechanic. Cool results, I see nothing wrong at all with this process, cool idea!😊 thanks again buddy!
Excellent! Glad it helped!
Best video I have seen in 2 days of binge watching You Tube !! Keep up the great educational video Ronnie I appreciate you sharing that knowledge . Greg White from Fremont , California.
Thanks 👍
Thanks for posting this information. I'd like to have seen the float bowls after cleaning. They never seem to get completely clean with your regular carb dip. I bought a Buell that sat for a couple of years and the inside if that carb looked like apple brown betty. Weird, I know. But all I did was disassemble and clean it just to see if it would run. Now I have a kit and I'll do it the right way this time. I will try this method.
Check out my rebuild video and I think it shows inside the bowel. th-cam.com/video/CgT8qX2pgAw/w-d-xo.html
Just what I needed to clean my carbs, thank you and thanks for your service Sir!
Thank you!