There's also been a bad run of flat tappet cams, when considering the labor involved and the results desired a hyd roller is the lowest option to consider.
Good looking car, not a bad street car combination for the motor. I would think with a little more effort and cam that should be more like a 12.5 - 12.7 quarter. BTW, camel humps cost too much these days, by the time you get a core set and have them freshened up you'll be in them 1000-1200 bucks. Lots of pretty decent aftermarket heads that out perform camel humps can be had for that price. (the $500 dollar price you mentioned is very rare to see, and usually too good to be true)
Thank you and yeah my car now with blueprints and a decent roller cam runs 12s, the point I was making sure to make was a drivable street car for someone, one that doesn't load up or do anything crazy, and I've been able to find them fairly consistently in my experience and have had decent luck but that's just me personally. You are absolutely right you can get cast iron heads now like Sr torkers too for 1000,
Don't waste your time with cast iron heads they are a waste of money! Get some DNA motoring or equivalent chinese ebay/amazon aluminum 64cc bare heads! Take to Machine shop and have them put some good valves and springs according to camshaft specs and you will be farther ahead and you will lose some weight on the front end. Or go out and buy yourself AFR enforcer heads! I would go with 880 factory roller lifter block with roller cam and use roller cam and factory lifters and its way cheaper than using link roller lifters and converting non roller block . Flat tappet cams are now a pain and gamble of grinding themselves to junk and you have to run high high zink oil to keep them alive if they survive break in!
There's also been a bad run of flat tappet cams, when considering the labor involved and the results desired a hyd roller is the lowest option to consider.
Yep! The lifters is what I heard is the biggest issue, supposedly comp has a new lifters that has fixed it but I wouldn't count in it personally
The lifters are being remanufactured and the machining around the plunger is awful.
Thank you for this video. Running 13’s is perfect. Fun fun.👍
Good solid information, presented well. Thank you for taking the time
Thank you I appreciate it!
Ok,.i like a 13 second car 🚙 is a fun cat that is streetable
Good looking car, not a bad street car combination for the motor. I would think with a little more effort and cam that should be more like a 12.5 - 12.7 quarter.
BTW, camel humps cost too much these days, by the time you get a core set and have them freshened up you'll be in them 1000-1200 bucks. Lots of pretty decent aftermarket heads that out perform camel humps can be had for that price. (the $500 dollar price you mentioned is very rare to see, and usually too good to be true)
Thank you and yeah my car now with blueprints and a decent roller cam runs 12s, the point I was making sure to make was a drivable street car for someone, one that doesn't load up or do anything crazy, and I've been able to find them fairly consistently in my experience and have had decent luck but that's just me personally. You are absolutely right you can get cast iron heads now like Sr torkers too for 1000,
I appreciate you watching!
Don't waste your time with cast iron heads they are a waste of money! Get some DNA motoring or equivalent chinese ebay/amazon aluminum 64cc bare heads! Take to Machine shop and have them put some good valves and springs according to camshaft specs and you will be farther ahead and you will lose some weight on the front end. Or go out and buy yourself AFR enforcer heads! I would go with 880 factory roller lifter block with roller cam and use roller cam and factory lifters and its way cheaper than using link roller lifters and converting non roller block . Flat tappet cams are now a pain and gamble of grinding themselves to junk and you have to run high high zink oil to keep them alive if they survive break in!