Building a RIPPER 350 Small Block Chevy in 15 minutes! | Ebay Heads
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2024
- #budget #sbc #bbc #engine #classic #ebayheads
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diveingarage-s...
In this video I build my BOOST READY 350 SBC in under 15 minutes. Enjoy!
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350 Small Block Chevy Budget Build: ww.th-cam.com/play/PLsmeCqtTeuZiMCZWv7OXTaaFS3Nm5BZQs.html
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If you're looking for build details and part numbers, check out this video where I breakdown the parts to build and assemble ebay heads.
th-cam.com/video/Y0UGWMUOc7k/w-d-xo.html
All the Pro's in the comments. As a kid with no money on the farm we did tons of rebuilds like this in the garage or barn on trucks and tractors and they ran fine for many many years and we didn't measure anything. I did many 2 Cycle Detroit Diesel rebuilds on offshore oil platforms with very little in the way of tools and resourses and cleaned everything with shop rags and diesel fuel and they always fired and ran as they should. People do this because of the cost of machine work etc. or other circumstances and not every engine is built in a clean room with snap on tools and expensive instruments and machines. Current machine shop prices in my area are $400 to tank the block and remove cam bearings and soft plugs and mag block. check block and check deck and check line bore. ball hone and wash cyls and inst cam bearings and oil plugs and soft plugs. $140 to deck the block and $190 to align hone and $300 to bore and hone with torque plates. Total of $1025 just for the block work, this does not include the head work and any rotating assy parts or seals and gaskets or bearings water pump etc. it's basically cheaper to call and have BluePrint deliver a new engine with new heads and block and pistons and manifold and it comes with a dyno sheet or have a new factory L31 Vortec delivered to your house for $4600 with a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty. At least this guy is doing his best to do a home /garage "budget" build and save some $$$ and get the satisfaction that he built it himself and try to help someone who may want to do the same and needs some knowledge. That engine will be fine for a good long while despite all the negative comments from the Internet Pros sitting there like Hawks on a fence watching the video just waiting for him to do something they don't agree with so they can swoop down and make a negative comment in an "atttempt" to make themselves look smart. Most of these folks have never been elbow deep in an engine anyway and watching Steve Morris videos don't make you a pro. My Grandpa during the depression used to replace the bearings on a Model A Ford with leather because they had no money to have the bearings re-poured, so they'd run it till she made noise and either tighten the caps or put in new leather and keep her going and they did that for years. Not a perfect fix by any means, but it got them by. Why someone would ever post a vid. on here knowing all the slings and arrows that will be thrown at you for not doing it "my" way or what they deem as correct is beyond me.
In Germany Machine shops take 378 Euros per hour
Spot- on Mark ~!
Im about to put together a 383 stroker garage style precisely for your reasons listed above and got a little flustered when pen, paper, and math was brought out. I dont have the measuring tools and cant find anywhere to rent them. I'd spend just as much money paying someone to do the work vs me shelling it out on the
''proper equipment" I almost caved and just bought a crate SBC but like you said I'd prefer the satisfation of hearing her run knowing I pieced her together.
@@DoughNutDan Please consult Powell Machine Shop! He can measure your engine and help building!
I took auto shop in college, 40 years ago. Ive dabbled in everything from aquarium building to roofing to plumbing to building Harleys. Never anything alone. Many hats. Nothing I just said really matters lol Your video was an EXCELLENT watch ! Thanks
Nice. I’m working on a blown 496 for my ‘87 square body.
I rebuilt my 350 in my 79 z28 in a #3 wash tub and diesel fuel. I pulled the engine out with my little sisters swing set and a 2X8 across the top and a come a long. Didn't change the rod and crank bearings but refreshed the rings and used a dingleberry hone. I was bagging groceries at a grocery store. I was broke. I learned a lot and loved every bit of it.
That's awesome! You don't need all the fancy stuff to have fun!
@@diveingarage That was way back in 1987
This was very satisfying to watch!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH. A TOTALLY AWSOME BUILD AND A TOTALLY AWSOME VIDEO!!!!! THANKS FOR SHARING.
Glad you liked it!
Always sweat the little things. Even more so when on a budget, like so many of us. Clean and clean again. Measure twice. Hell measure times or as much as needed. Its only alittle more time in the big picture. To each his/her own. I do thank you for video. Im sure it helped some people out there. Yes i owned a machine shop. Clean clean and clean it again. Triple check math. Keep those notes. Health and wellness for all.
Those heads look pretty 😍 👌 ✨️
No, step 1 is not remove material. Step 1 is always math [most of which should have been done before purchasing heads]. Using displacement and an estimate of oh... 90% volumetric efficiency, then apply intended rpm range to figure a reasonable cross section. The goal is to get something in the neighborhood of 300-320 feet per second velocity on a simple build at peak power. Racers obviously reach for higher VE, and bowls/short turns that can push higher velocities - and thats not always so simple. Those guys have access to a flowbench to make that happen. Most heads... minimum cross section is at the throat/near valve seat, so beware of just opening up an intake runner entrance for a bigger gasket: too much taper can hurt overall performance.
Home builds or pro, we all face one certainty: some metal removal is going to be necessary to get intake working better with heads... and its different nearly every time. Mock up [step 2] before breaking out the burrs & sandrolls, and thank yourself later.
Nice man. Now make me the same engine for my 86 regal please
Thanks! I've tossed around the idea of selling rebuilt engines.
The one thing I’ve learned about eBay parts ? Ya get what ya pay for.
Without reshaping and regrinding of the valve seats and valve faces the valves wont be tight and leak
I'm just wondering if that rear main seal gonna leak? Never seen the 1 half placed on the crank then install the cap usually you place the seal in the cap first 😂
That was fast !
Nice timelapse!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video
@@diveingarageso u didn't have the Block aligned honed? And u installed arp main studs?....all those nice parts..all that money
Yessir. It's doing perfect!
@@redneckswitwheels Do you know what BUDGET even means?
Hello what’s the specs on the cam sounds pretty mean ?
230/236 @ .050
Heads build and parts info
th-cam.com/video/Y0UGWMUOc7k/w-d-xo.html
What cylinder head covers did you install? What brand are they? Do you know?
Valve cover? They're just generic tall valve covers from summit.
what cam did you use? trying to build a 350 SBC for my ‘67 stang
Compcams retrofit roller. 230/236
Building my 327/331 ci Sbc for my 68 stang! Use what you got brother!
Didn't check valve spring height ?
a lot of things that were done wrong in this vid bud. first, if you are going to use studs on the bottom end and just swapped over from bolts, you want to have it re-align honed. the clamping force is different from bolts to studs and can egg shape the bearings. next do all your block dirty work before painting and washing or rewash. i seen you did the honing but didnt clean the block after. then the over spray on the inside of the block, just slap on the oil pan with a few bolts and paint it as well. next with the heads, you used a steel hammer to smack the valve. use a plastic or rubber mallet. next again, you put shims on the valve springs but never checked the installed height or spring pressure rate. then the two piece seal, you want to install it in the bearing half then off-set it and put a little rtv on the splits and install. then dont drive on bolts prior to torquing them with an impact. 1 you cannot feel if the threads where clean, speaking of that didnt see you chase the threads of any of the critical bolts. if there is debris or even oil down in the bottom you could cause damage, i have seen one were someone used to much oil as bolt lube and crack the block when tightened down. you didnt check end play on the crank or set the thrush bearing.
all of this stuff is free to do, and should be done on every engine build. this helps with reliability and longevity of the project.
I hear ya. The point of this build was to show people you can build an engine in your garage and skip the machine shop. Check out my other videos on this build! I go over a lot of what you're talking about.
Looks good to me. What heads did you use?
Ebay specials! I really like them
Good video
Thanks
Give us part numbers for heads an the build I'm looking to build the same thing to my squarebody
Check out this livestream I did a while back. Going to redo this as a regular video.
th-cam.com/users/livemv42BCPAHPU?feature=share
Also this video with a full breakdown
th-cam.com/video/Y0UGWMUOc7k/w-d-xo.html
Dude, how bad is your fuel pump block off plate leaking? You didn't bother to scrape any of the old gasket from the block. And if you say the RTV will seal it, maybe. But remember that there's as much if not more squeezing into the block as squeezing out of the block. Not being rude or picky at all, but that's not good workmanship at all.
Hasn't leaked a bit! Bone dry all around the block off. Don't sweat the little things!
@@diveingarage Honestly one little overboard with the sealer
@@SHSPVRsays the guys that are perfect in every way. Y'all are so perfect.
@@SHSPVRnope
Nope
I assure you this took longer than fifteen minutes lol
Haha definitely
core plugs go in dry
You installed one freeze plug , took 15 minutes to adjust the mic , an hour for math problems , poor crank didn't get its holes cleaned , painted blue instead of Chevy ORANGE , 👎
Why no love for the CHEVY Corporate Blue? Stock color for my 79.
@@diveingarage ,
I have 60s and early 70s small block Chevy engines 283,307,327,350
All orange
I'm prejudice
After 1975 Chevy started using Less nickel in their iron blocks and the blocks became weaker and didn't last as long ,then they went Vortec and LS
I got 327s that scream to the moon !
Ah ok. Yeah nothing against Chevy Orange, for this build wanted to use the stock color. I'll have to start hunting for some pre-75 engines
Chevy Orange.... unoriginal... unless you're going for a restore just... why? Ive never opened a buddies hood and thought, "OOOOOO CHEVY ORANGE." Ive had 3 different SBC and none of them were painted chevy orange. And the next one wont be either.
@@derickwilliams1971, No one said unoriginal except you .
And do whatever you want to your engine and I will do the same to mine .
Yes and blow it up as quick as 5 minutes!
good for another 50 yrs
😂😂 not testing the heads for VAC ... Just laping
Too much silicone sealer and porting heads, you don't want to touch the port. it's the bowl under the valves that is best bang for your buck!!!
what if u dont know how to do any of this work?
Check out my other content! Let me know if there's still something you want to see
😢😢😢😢
Why are guys arguing over colors geez. Shoulda been around in the late 80s when hot pink was the ticket
This is how you hand lap valves in. You can hear and feel the grinding paste when its about worn then stop.
All this drill nonsense is so bass ackwards I dont know where to start
What cam did you put in it?
Btw black is the worst color for an engine you cant see where the oil is leaking from.
Comp RetroRoller 230/236 @ .050. Great cam. You're right! Never painting an engine black again!
@@diveingarage Guessing you used at least a 4.11 and 3-3500 stall? How do you like it?
That’s the point man. 🤣
You are supposed to paint the chevy block orange not Blue 🔵 ok 🆗
blue flame 6 is chevy