Making A Vice Stop For The Milling Machine Vice
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- G'day everyone,
in this video I will be making a table mounted stop for my milling machine vice. There are many different designs online, many that will mount to the vice jaws or the vice itself, but I think that a design that mounts directly to the mill table is more versatile, since I have several vices that I rotate on the mill.
#machining #diy #millingmachine
Timestamps
0:00 - Introduction
1:36 - Making The Table Stop
7:41 - Test Fit
9:00 - Heat Treatment/Case Hardening
13:05 - Assembly and Final Thoughts
Making A Vise Stop For The Milling Machine Vice
Making A Vise Stop - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Obligatory: This is how you spell VICE in Australia. Cheers
If you want a deeper reach in between the jaws with the stopping rod you made, just rotate the base block 180 and flip the mount order of the arms... :) mount the first arm so it's on the vice side of the base, and mount the upper arm on the vice side too. Then you should be able to push the upper arm almost into the side of the jaws! :)
So looking at the mill from the front, with the stop to the LEFT of the vice, you have [base]-[arm]-[arm]-[vice]
And England! Just the Americans that can't spell! 😂
Same in ZA🇿🇦
@@SimJackson Fun fact a lot of the American spellings are closer to the original than UK spellings
In the US vice and vise have very different meanings.
A new Artisan Makes and Inheritance Machining within a day of each other!!!!
I always enjoy your videos. Your projects seem practical and useful to the home hobbyist, especially those without a fortune in expensive machinery. You give me courage to attempt projects I would otherwise just purchase, thinking I wouldn’t be able to build such useful tools. And…I’d much rather have the ones you build rather than the cheap import junk most of us can afford. After seeing the video of your small shop and limited equipment I am even more impressed to see what you can accomplish. I do hope you are able to expand your shop space and add additional equipment (metal cutting bandsaw-like everyone else that watches 😊) as time goes by, but I hope that would never take you away from making the content that is so relative and helpful to so many of us viewers!
You have convinced me to buy a mini lathe and mini mill. Now I just need some money! Thanks 21yo college student USA
Grats on a new hacksaw blade!
I love how this channel is a channel to build tools for your tools. This is the most accurate representation of a hobby machine shop 😂
And sometimes you need to make tools just to make other tools for your tools!
Dude, such a functional and elegant solution and execution. I’m a huge fan of less is more. And yes, there are many other channels with similar builds, and yes, I could go watch their channels, but I’m not. I’m watching yours. I like your videos. Simple, clean and well executed. Thanks for taking me along.
Gday, good simple design that’s going to last years, great job mate, cheers
A very small improvement: replace the grub screw with a custom thumbscrew so you don't need to find an allen wrench every time?
Oohhh yesssss
Might do when I get the lathe back together and working
You need a bandsaw brother
No! Hacksaw for the win
No, build an over complicated mechanical hacksaw machine.
It's a tradition on this channel to say get a bandsaw, but the hacksaw is what is custom down under
Hacksaw is a meme here
At this point the hacksaw has to stay.
I love seeing the chips that face mill makes
This rules, you always are great at showing how much you can do with limited tools, it’s awesome! Can’t wait for the next one!
Artisan, to file a constant radius curve, hold the file long axis perpendicular to the curve axis. Start with the file at a tangent to the distant plane the curve should meet, and simultaneously push the file forward and rocking it so that the point of contact moves back towards the closer plane.
This is an old trick I learnt in trade school decades ago, and it makes it easy to achieve a smooth curve of constant radius with no flat spots.
You should file rounds from other direction... perpendicular to the axis of the round.
Much easier to retain squareness to the sides of the part, and also it make smooth curve "by itself", if you start with file handle high, and drop it down as you move file forward.
excellent perspective, I was thinking of making one to attach directly to the vise, but this solution is much more flexible
Do like this vice stop, I have been looking at them, but because I swap between 3 vices regularly, I didn't fancy making 3, but this would do the job on all of them :)
Very practical approach to the project and very well explained.Thank you.
Great tool build and video.
Thanks for sharing.
Sorry, I got distracted reading about the hacksaw being a meme that I forgot to add Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. Be safe 🇨🇦
Nice job, might have to copy that when I extract my digit and get back to some machining!
Man you need a bandsaw for all these cool projects, hacksaw is killing me hahahahah great videos man.
Nice little stop. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Très bon travail mon ami !!! 👍👍👍
i use a magnetic dial indicator support as my vise stopper. works pretty well as well. give it a try!
Great video
Very cool. I’m a fan.
Well done.
Really like that.
Very nice. 👍👍👍
You could have threaded the lover bolt in the lower arm, and made the hole in the base a through hole. Like this you would get the arm closer to the vice and not need a longer rod to get to the middle of the vice, while maintaining accessibility to the bolt from the outside.
...................... ., mantapppp
About the heating cycle mistake you made: honestly I would have made the same mistake. In previous videos I have found myself asking why you did two heating cycles only to do the quench, and thought that I knew better in believing a single heat followed by an immediate quench as you do here would be best. I'm genuinely-pleased to learn that I was very wrong.
👍 Nice job😀
Nice!
I would have put two holes in the base so it can't pivot even a little.
It probably won't pivot unintentionally but that's just me.
I like it! 👍
Looking at your stop there is an easy way to gain the 1" you mentioned on the stop bar - without increasing it's stick out
If you where to remanufacture the base and lower arm - Rather than thread the base, have the cap screw pass through the base and thread the arm linkage you would have the arm on the far side, closer to the vice
or alternatively
Modify the Base to share the same stud that locks down the vice to the bed
Interesting first idea.
Thats how we spell Vice as well, (UK)
looks like a very adaptable thingummyjig since you could add extra parts if you were to need to stop a different shape or more than one point on the part.
Sure is a nice Tap Handle you have there!
Right at the end of the video, why not turn it around 180 degrees so you put the linkages on the other side of the base block, you get much deeper reach into the vice that way.
Of course you would need a hex head bolt and open ended wrench (and not allen head bolt).
Anyway, great project! 👍😁
I had the same idea - But thread the arm rather than the base, passing the stud through
Or mounting the base to the same bolt used to lock the vice to the bed
Yeah. I prefer cap head screws but you can always do it differently. Seems easier to get a slightly longer piece of steel
@@artisanmakes Agreed for the most part, It depends on how comforable with the extra stick out and flex you are
@@artisanmakes If you find a broken printer, there is a long similar rod inside.
@@BrainHurricanes Yep, you can also buy stainless steel round bars fairly cheap. although they are not so great for machining. They are perfect for various projects.
If you want a little more length on the stop shaft move the arm assembly to the vice side side of the base block.
I enjoyed your video very much. Do you have to use three different Allen Wrenches, to use this? It would be really neat if you could only need to use one Allen wrench.
Ho do you oil your x axis ways? my mill does not have any oil ports in the table, so i been using an oiled rag and wiping the underside ways of the table. Been thinking of putting a Brass Push Button Oil Cup Cap on the side of the table. love to hear your thoughts on that.
Great design and execution! Roughly what's your depth of cut for the fly mill? Your getting surface finishes that the the best machinists would be jealous of!
Afaik fly cutters require small DOCs to give good surface finishes so I'd say 1 thou
I’m doing about 0.1mm depth of cut to get these inserts to cut properly. Button inserts like these always leave great finishes
Brilliant job!
можно использовать магнитную шарнирную стойку без магнита, вкрутив ее в подходящее основание, а еще проще - в сделанную резьбу в теле тисков (добавив пару отверстий по бокам)
You should make some thumbscrews for the pivot points so you don't have to breakout the Allen Wrench everytime you want to adjust it. 👍👍
Might do when I get the lathe back together and working
I read in a harrold hall book not to double stack parts in the vice. Are there exceptions to that rule or is just a general safety guide? Getting my first milling machine hopefully mid Jan if it actually arrives. Was supposed to get it a few days ago. Keep up the great work. Very inspirational. Peace, from qld.
Not sure, it’s probably to do with making sure to clamp parts that are exactly the same with or you may twist the moving jaw or have uneven pressure.
the piece of tubing after multiple uses on other projects probably has the a carbon content equivalent to cast iron, question dose it skate a file after quenching it
Yeah I didn’t think of that. I’ve probably used that box 5 or 6 times by now so it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s absorbed some carbon
What rpm are you running the face mill and the fly cutter
There's no need to do two processes in hardening also closing up the carbon Container isn't needed. A tight fit lid is enough. You can then pull the part out of the charcoal and directly harden it. That's how I've done it for several years now and it works just fine.
Oi, mate! I have this question that might appear stupid and the answer- obvious, but I've noticed that you cut metal, even quite large stock material with a hand saw. What's the reason you wouldn't use angle grinder or other power tools? Does it have anything to do with overheating the material and buggering it's mechanical properties or it's something else?
👍
very nice job , What size vice do you have on your mill ??👍👍
4 inch
@@artisanmakes perfect , I was hoping you would say that .. I bought a 4 inch for my new mill , thanks
Looks good! - I think you'll want thumb screws on that!
Did you make the fiber wheel motor adapter?
Yes. Tapered m12 shaft
I like this. Not saying I'm stealing the design, but.............
You spent 1 hour on case hardening! Only the gas comsumption would have made this part in Europe even more expensive then gold. Excellent job.
Once you get the part up to temp you can run the furnace on 3 psi of gas which is practically nothing. Not a huge amount used. Cheers
Hi mate,
Like yourself I have a small hobby machining set up in my shed.
I live in rural WA about 600km from Perth, other than asking my mates from engineering companies for their scrap or buying large expensive quantities from suppliers I was wondering if there is any supplier of small “hobby” of assorted round stock/square stock of different materials?
Thanks 😊
Not sure how much I can help you since I live on the other side of the country. I use edcon steel as my main supplier, simply because they don’t have minimum order quantities for most metal sizes. They are based in NSW but I know they they do ship metal interstate
@@artisanmakes thanks for the reply mate, funnily enough this morning I found you had a video answering my exact question hahaha I will use that supplier when I need, legend
it wasn't really damaged, i'd just refinish and square end...
Have you thouht about elektric handsaws?
what city are you in adrian?
This is so much more than a "vice stop".
My concern is removing it to mill the part then return it to the same spot..
It's to set distance inside the vice, so long as you don't move the part, you can set the stop back on it. You shouldn't see any accuracy loss so long as both faces are clean.
You didnt hacksaw the first part,,, im gob smaked, you used a grinder😮
I prefer to call it at work stop, because you bump your work piece up against. Even if you're using one mounted on the vise. It's still a workshop. Of course that's what I call the ones I make. You can call yours anything you like. After all you're the one making it.
Yeah I’ve also heard these called universal stops and table mounted stops.
I will literally buy you a band saw, PLEASE
Before I watch this video, I'm going to get my credit card ready. Because if I see the hacksaw come out I'm going to buy you a saw lol
Nooo! The hacksaw is a meme of this channel.
Yes. How long can he keep going with the hacksaw. I know things are pricey in Australia, but buying a used one and restoring it is no shame
@@cooperised I know ,I know. But he could really use one!
Not a meme. A method used to cut stock :)
Sorry too many commercials......
adblock ;)
@@nitroboy2 ...and ReVanced on mobile
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My brother in christ, get a band saw
Please buy a bandsaw
Exelente el juguete , saludos 🤚
What is that yellow surface you clean parts on? 🤔🤷🏽
Abrasive paper