These small mills and lathes are best thought of as functional kits. I see a lot of people with these things, and it is interesting to see what everyone comes up with to build them up to another level of functionality. Love seeing the ingenuity people put into the modifications, it is all food for thought, and some ideas I have tried using. Once you start to modify, it becomes like a can of Pringles, you can't stop at one. Mine are nothing close to what I brought home new, after 10 years of having them. Well done on yours.
@@larrybud for the money you have to invest, you'll often only get some huge clapped out industrial machines, that need quite a bit of work too. Add to that the fact, that I not only don't have the space for them, but also have to get them down into my basement via some rather steep stairs, I'd much rather get a small chinese mill (which I did). Upgrading them might cost you the same as a big one in the long run, but it also means you don't have to pay as much upfront and you can upgrade it bit by bit as you need it. You'll also learn a lot more about your machine by doing that and you'll learn to work around some limitations. Would I buy a bigger machine if I had infinite money? Yes, but then my workshop wouldn't be in a basement either.
@@HoloEN_GawrGura I'm not sure what the next step up is, but I know I have 500-600 pound woodworking tools in my basement. Just a matter of removing a couple of the larger parts (bed, etc) and moving them. Like I said, it depends what you want to do. If you need to start making quality parts ASAP, doing the upgrade dance wouldn't be for you. It's very similar to the 3d printing guys who buy the basic model, struggle with quality prints, and upgrade, upgrade, upgrade, where they would have gotten it all set in one shot.
@@larrybudIt's buy once, cry once. I'm used to machines of high quality industrial CNC machinery, even smaller manual lathes of 30k and more or Deckel vertical mills. That said, nothing compares to those. But we're not running a business at home, it's rather a hobby, therefore a proper industrial machine doesn't make much sense. That however doesn't mean that you should get the cheapest available, as you'll never be entirely happy with it when you're honest to yourself. Upgrading small and cheap machines might improve them, but at the end of the day it's still a small and cheap machine with drawbacks. Upgrades cost money and all the tooling required also comes at a price. So in the end i highly doubt that you're better off with an upgraded small machine and the limited performance. There are many good companies out there who sell reasonably sized china mills and lathes for a good price. Those machines from china aren't bad at all these days and you start already with a better machine hence you don't have to mess around with modifications to improve it, which also cost money. Artisan recently bought a new lathe and it's literally the type of machine i mean. It's got a proper gearbox and motor, threading and feeding gearbox aswell as X & Z auto feeds. It's a proper machine for a good price. Same can ve said about a mill, for about 5-6k you're in for a proper china mill. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive, a good balance is the key for a hobby workshop on a limited budget.
@@AndyHack10 I can't think of one "entry level" machine that I ever bought that I was happy with, and either upgrading or replacing ended up costing more in time (and aggravation) in the long run. At the same time, I can't think of one higher end machine that I bought that I regretted. I've had a nice Jet table saw that I bought 25 years ago that is still running strong, bought I could have bought something at 1/3 or even 1/4 the price. Same goes for a jointer and welder.
Made a 200lbs concrete base for my mini lathe to bolt too, then bolted the base to a beefed up tool box. All in all everything weighs around 500-600 lbs. Made a big difference with chatter and vibrations
My mini lathe is flaoting on a vibration isolation pad without bolting down. It had to be likethis beacuse of eighbours but its producing surprisingly well results.
older and modern machines are not made for the same applications, old machines are made for gigantic passes so a lot of rigidity, and modern machines need to absorb a lot more vibrations because today, we have high feed milling tools
I did something similar with the small mill I had. I used lead weights that I melted and just poured onto the prepared surface with perturbed metal fingers welded to the inside of the parts. These were anchor points to keep the lead next to the casting tightly. Worked for me really well. Lead really absorb vibration and weight. Like your different approach with other materials.
Awesome rebuild. You can power scrape very fast and efficiently using a Dremel with a conical stone. If you grind the stone to a fine point using a diamond dresser, you can precisely hit the high areas.
For induction hardened beds you can use a small cut off disk, it’s extremely effective. For soft grey iron a 135mm rad sandvik insert with a mushroom handle scraper is arguably more efficient than a Biax. Not reason to use abrasives on soft iron
@@bobweiram6321 No, it's not "you can power scrape" is correct grammar. "You can power scraper" is not correct grammar, however using a power scraper to power scrape makes sense, you do not.
@@stevenpederson1645 "That would be grinding, not power scraping." If ya wanna get techy wit it. Power grind is not a real process, whereas power scraping is.
You are missing some points of a epoxy granite composite. Epoxy granite composite machine frames are designed to optimize stiffness, vibration absorption, and mass enhancement. To achieve these characteristics, the resin content in the composite is minimized to create a harmonious mixture. The goal is to have a composite frame that combines the inherent stiffness of cast iron or similar materials with additional stiffness and absorbtion provided by the composite materials. The composite portion of the frame consists of materials with high stiffness, a high friction coefficient, and a relatively high density. "Granite" in the name refers to the inclusion of rocks or aggregates in the composite. Granite is an excellent choice for this purpose due to its quartz content, which is both stiff and has a high friction coefficient. The majority of the composite is made up of granite or rocks, providing stiffness and vibration absorption through the contact angles formed between the aggregates. In addition to granite or rocks, fillers and additives are used to enhance the composite properties. Fillers, such as sand, are employed to fill the voids between the larger grains of the composite. Sand is an effective and affordable filler material that contributes to stiffness. The use of different grain sizes in the composite can help fill up voids while creating an interlocking structure, which further improves stiffness and vibration absorption. Additives play a role in reducing surface friction and improving chemical/mechanical bonding within the composite or other properties. These additives can be used to enhance the overall performance and properties of the composite frame. Fibers, such as carbon fiber, fiberglass and kevlar, can also be incorporated into the composite to further reinforce its strength and stiffness. These fibers add an additional layer of rigidity to the frame and enhance its ability to resist vibrations.
You are propable 1000% right, but then you might as well from the beginning build a behemot at some 10-20.000 kg's. What is tried achieved here is the best result with what is on hand
@@sidewind131258 You are quite right aswell, while it is true and good doing with what is on hand he did mention he wanted to stretch its capabilities so i followed up on some advise on epoxy granite composites. This composite structure could be used to build a frame indepentent from an already stiff form, there are ways to enhance its performance and make it more cost-effective. By incorporating clean normal gravel, granite, and sand into the construction and optimizing the use of epoxy instead of going completely over-board and scientific, we can not only increase the overall weight but also significantly improve its performance. Moreover, this approach could potentially lower costs, as epoxy tends to be one of the more expensive components involved. It is worth noting that the steel and cast iron parts used in the current setup do not effectively absorb vibrations, thus limiting the overall performance gain. By reducing the resin content and adding aggregates like granite during the casting process for the gantry, we can significantly enhance its performance.
Great job. Lead doesn't off gas or vaporise unless you go way over its melt temp. You are more at risk from skin contamination and ingestion. If you have a scrap metal yard nearby you can save a lot buying from one. Don't be tempted recycling lead acid batteries, they off gas cadmium and are extremely dangerous.
No, I am not missing the point, I am using it for different reasons then it is normally used for on say a proper epoxy granite mill. "The goal is to have a composite frame that combines the inherent stiffness of cast iron or similar materials with additional stiffness and absorbtion provided by the composite materials" Yes but that's not what im going for here. Its simply to add weight. I already have 25mm sheet of steel on the column to aid in rigidity. Cheers
@@sidewind131258 Yeah effectively this. I only had 3 afternoons and a Saturday to get everything ripped apart, cast and put back together. I think its important to make a distinction between what im doing here and what other people do when they are building a frame and encasing it in epoxy granite, because we are trying at achieve slightly different things.
You need mostly rigidity more mass dose help but it will not solve deflection so make a structure that adds rigidity. I made a milling machine and once I welded a 2x2x1/4 steel tube from the top column to the knee it was a missive difference. You want to stop vibrations from happening in the first place instead of the mass band-aid. You can also can direct the vibrations into the stand the machine is sitting on.
Yes that is true, but I already have a thick piece of steel bracing on the back of the column to stiffen the milling machine which made a big difference. Outside of adding that I am not sure what else I can do to significantly improve the rigidity. The adding weight was sort my last ditch attempt to make the mill a bit more solid.
@@artisanmakes Even thick pieces of metal can have deflection and the leverage that is acted upon it can be amplified by distance. That is why you want to tie the top of the column to the knee to cancel that out. you want to make the strongest shape and work inside it the triangle. you will have a metal bar that will get in your way but its worth it.
Brilliant mod! Skip the comments that don't understand what you have accomplished. Most of them are probably academia and have no sense of logical applications. Hence they can tell you how to make a screw driver but don't understand what they are used for or how to use them! Thanks for posting and take care!
Well the thing is this is quite the complicated topic - hence why you can find thousands of construction businesses but only 3 that build machine beds out of epoxy granite.
Lead flashing really is the most expensive way to go to acquire lead. I’m not sure about Australia handling laws but tire shops routinely have tons of the wheel weights you could ask about HOWEVER A BETTER suggestion given your location might be to inquire about SCUBA and Free diving weights. Even if lead is being phased out there should be plenty of old lead weights still available and probably for less than $230. Hope this info helps for any future equipment upgrades like this. Great video and thanks for documenting these modifications.
We would coat the internal structures of some bases/rails with vermiculite on large machine tools if the structure was a weldment as opposed to a casting. Since steel handles vibrations much worse than castings. We made large horizontal borers and vertical borers. So it certainly works well if done right
This is another interesting project, and I’m very interested to see what results you get. However, rolled lead sheet for flashing is probably THE MOST expensive way of buying lead. There’s tons of scrap lead around, and most people don’t want anything to do with it. Every three depot has to PAY for the scrap wheel weights to be disposed of. If you offer to take it away for free, they will likely ask you how much you need. Scrap yards will have buckets of the stuff lying around. They also have the filthy stuff from lead acid batteries. Also, building sites will throw the excess flashing in skips. I’ve rarely paid for any sheet metal, and never paid for lead.
My thoughts exactly on the lead sheet. I'd head over to my nearest tire shop and buy the bucket of lead wheel balancing weights that have been removed from past customers. Just pay them more than the scrap dealer which probably isn't much.
@@DavidM2002 Yep. Having been in business for many years, I’m aware that the first profit is made at the buying stage. Most people apparently simply don’t understand that basic principle. I always put a lot of energy into tracing the supply chain as close to the original source as possible. And of course, the principle of one man’s scrap is another man’s treasure, is the ideal basis for the cheapest of supply sources - which the smartest hobbyists can always exploit to their advantage.
Fascinating as usual, to see what can be achieved if you put your mind to it. The only thing I would say (from an engineering perspective), is that this is all a trade-off. Having the ability to take greater depth of cut like this, has consequences in terms of the higher loads now being applied to the other parts of the mill you haven’t upgraded. Hopefully those parts (bearings, leadscrews, ways, etc.), are sufficiently ‘over-engineered’ to cope with these forces, ones they presumably weren’t designed for.
Two observations: I would have preferred to add to the bed rather than the base, but perhaps it is already 'full'. Secondly I would worry about the Z screw wear with the extra load. Also the wear and tear on me moving it. Perhaps a counterweight?
The weak spot with these X2 based bench mills is flex in the column, which induces unwanted nod. Adding all that weight to the head along with the much bigger motor is only exacerbating that weakness. The "fix" is to rigidly secure the column to a structural member in the wall behind the mill, as well as brace the column to the base via a triangulated member. You can add another brace on the backside of the mill, securing the column to the base, but that will only take a little but of the nod out. Put a granite square on your table and measure it with a dti. You may be shocked. I spent several hours one afternoon tramming a friends mill, and quickly realized that there is only so much that can be done with these mills. The larger RF45 based machines have the same issue.
The designer in me is screaming because the mill now contains 3 different shades of red and 3 different shades of blue. But it's an import mini-mill not a piece of fine furniture, so I'd say you did a great job!
I recently had to move my workshop at work, so I used the opportunity to paint two lathes, two pillar drills, some shelving, three bench vices, a band saw and workbench legs all battle ship grey. It looks a lot smarter now.
In the "not cheap, but I had the material on hand" category, I melted a mostly bismuth (bout 4 kg) plus a bit of antimony and tin combo for mass addition and vibration dampening. I love it ... But it makes lead look cheap. Anyway, cool video. Thanks.
It is important to remember that while mass alone does help attenuate vibrations *in a specific frequency range*, much of the value of the epoxy granite (and composites in general) is that, beyond dampening vibrations through mass alone, composites offer further (and more significant) vibration dampening by combining a material with a very high internal friction (the epoxy) with another material that has a very high Young's Modulus (the bulk filler.) Your Al2O3 choice is actually better than sand here for two reasons: - It has a somewhat-higher Young's Modulus - The shape of the grains (sharp, irregular) should ensure that the grains bear against one another (if the ratio of bulk filler to polymer resin is high enough) Polyurethane is also a better choice than epoxy, because it has a higher Loss Coefficient than epoxy
Interesting upgrade, thanks for sharing. I wonder if you'd have usefully got more weight in if you'd poured lead shot into the compartments you made and then poured resin to fill the voids between the shot. Just a thought experiment, I understand you are using what you have on hand to control costs and save time.
@@artisanmakes there is a mob in brisbane (and online) called "rebel gun works" that sell lead shot for reloading shotgun shells in various sizes. 1kg or 10kg bags :)
@@artisanmakes It's relatively easy to make it by dripping molten lead into a (large) bucket of cold water from 2-3m height. You won't get perfect results (as in a shot tower) but it should be good enough for the task
I really enjoy your videos. You explain things very well and I learn quite a bit from you. I am retired and have some machinery in my hobby shop, and really appreciate your knowledge and videos. Thank you for sharing, you make my life better!
Real cool adding the weight to the mill but can we get high five and a thumbs up for how good your scraping looks right on bro looks like those old school machines with the fish scaling your ways looks top shelf wow 👌
If you do any future lead or zinc alloy stuff you can simply use a cut off propane canister as a crucible and get plenty of life from it. You can do the same with Aluminum, but it's a gamble after it's second use. I know the struggle of finding lead, I find that the best option is facebook marketplace or going to a junkyard and paying $1 a pound
A number of years ago, I decided to add a lathe & mill to my fab shop. A long term goal, I kept my eyes on Craigs List for the real expense in machining, tooling & accessories. I saw an ad, "30# of end mills - $40", & nearly broke my arm calling. Headed off & scored 30# of end mills; 80% new, 20% slightly used, from 1/2" dbl end to 1.25". It was a major score. It felt like theft; tried to give the young guy more, but he refused. They were his recently deceased dad's, he knew what they were worth, but didn't care. Then he said, you in the market for a lathe? Yeah... "Be right back." I thought was going for keys &/or shoes to take me to a shop, as we were in his living room. Surprised me when he came back w/ what looked to be a toy lathe. About a ft & 1/2 long, he said $50; no motor, but it's got a bunch of other stuff. Dad used it until the motor died. Feeling bad about the mills, I gave him $50 & left. When I got home, did some research & learned I'd bought a Sherline precision mini lathe. A yr+ of research & learning about lathes & I scavenged a free treadmill for the motor. I'd read how important rigidity & mass were, so I skipped Sherline's recommendation of mounting it on 3/4" plywood. I salvage granite & marble for projects & always have a lot around. I'd used a 1 1/8" thick sink cut out scrap as part of a T-slot table for a precision metal cutting saw I built & was happy w/ it. I has some 1/2" 6061 T-6 aluminum someone gave me. They were 24 x 18", machined & anodized bases from a closed manufacturer. I laid 3 to make a base 36 x 42, then bolted 3 more in opposite layout, for a ttl 1", then made another one. I made a sandwich by glueing & bolting a slab of 1 1/8" granite between the 2 - 1" 6061 pieces. I mounted the lathe on this. I then fab a motor mount, attaching to both the sandwiched base & rigidly to the headstock using heim joints & 8mm threaded end shaft. The heims allowed me to dial in both alignment & rigidity. The motor mount was made from over-sized SS & steel I had. I bought nothing but fasteners. The DC treadmill motor had no low end torque, so I need an intermediate shaft. A neighbor who sold used cars on CL gave a pile of alternators for scrapping. I was looking at the pile while thinking about an intermediate shaft when I realized 2 of the Motorola alternators were identical, except for the width. I looked & saw they were different amp capacity; the width gave more windings, which = more amps. I lined the 2 up & realized if I used the front half & the rotor from the big amp, & the back half of the low amp, I'd end up w/ a dual shaft alternator. That became my intermidiate shaft assy. Used treadmill OEM multi-vee pulley & belt w/ a small multi-vee pulley from a tile wet saw, (had to buy it-damn!), then used the largest dia cogged timing sprocket that'd fit on the other side of alt. Found a very small cogged sprocket for the lathe spindle & I ended up w/ a variable speed DC motor w/ plenty of low RPM torque & 5k top spindle speed for
You seem quite knowledgeable and with the right set of skills. Why don't you make a few videos and teach us some things? I'm dead serious!! A lot of US could benefit! Not many young guys like me have the time to learn so much on our own withoht somebody to teach them and still have time to work, build the base for a future home and family and save Money and so on and so on... Thank you
@@att49356 Thanks for the kind words. Launching a YT channel is something I started planning a couple of years before Covid. I communicated w/ successful YT's in relevant areas & thoroughly educated & prepared myself, I was ready. I've made & repaired cars, houses, consumer 'stuff' since sge 12, I'm now 70. I found time to go to college & grad school, my master's work was in Exercise Physiology, Education & Counseling to support my chosen field of Sports Medicine. I quickly learned it's best a single person's field unless you are very fortunate in your job; just too much travel. I abbreviated my career at 12+ yrs, leaving at my peak, working for the Dodgers org. I founded & operated a computer manufacturing, network installation & IT service business, running it until a life altering brain injury in 2003 end it all. I'm better than I was in 04-05, but still have my struggles. The fall before Covidd, I was searching for a videographer just getting started to offer a partnership, business mentorship & a jump start on their life when I contracted Covid. I was a very early case, no body knew anything about it. If it hadn't been for my medical background, I likely wouldn't be writing. As was, 5 weeks later, when I finally had the energy to shave, I found an extremely swollen lymph node under my R ear. I knew what it was, just not why/how. An MRI found & a CT scan confirmed a necrotic lymph node. By then, it was during lockdown; I'm thinking, 'Great, the worst pandemic in the US & I have to have surgery.' In May, I see a head/neck surgeon. Five minutes into the consult, he drops this: You have HPV related throat cancer. Not ONE person prior had even hinted the chance. July '19 I had throat & neck surgery. By Nov, I had a clean bil l of health, no cancer. By Mar '20, I was back about very bad R ear ache, (only symptom ever had w/ cancer & only ear ache I'd ever had.) I knew the score going in; was told, cancer's back. I had a roof to get done on my house & put off trestment as long as they let me & I could stand the ear aches. Started chemo & radiation. Seven weeks later, I was in much better physical shape from a strenuous workout all thru treatment & felt great. Four days later I was in bed, I couldn't dit without help for 3 months, & couldn't get out of bed for another. I went from nearly the best physical condition since I was a competitive athlete in college & 185 #'s to 150# & too weak to start a lead blower, (I tried & it's the easiest of the 6-8 2 cycles I own). I was finally back on my feet, about 75%, by the end of '22, early '23. A completely unrelated CT scan from '22 had turned up a pancreatic cyst, which got overlooked. My throat onco caught spring '23 & referred me. A specialized MRI of my pancreas picked up a 'spot on my liver'. Yep, cancer. Had radiation last summer. Next week I go for my 6 month scan & genetic blood test to see if the treatment has impacted the tumor positively. Heaven forbid, but if you or yours ever get cancer, be thoroughly prepared & badger the damn docs about the effect of treatments so you are prepared. They don't want to be completely honest 'cause they're afraid of scaring people. My gawd, you have cancer, by the time treatments over, you're way burned out on fright. The other thing to prepare for is the wait... the wait to get better, (recovery is gauged in weeks or months) & the interminable wait for 'results' of scans & tests to find out if you're going to see another summer. As is said, great minds think alike, & your great mind is thinking the same as my damaged mind, but life has got in the way. I embarked on a shop remodel/expansion & 25 yr overdue re-org. I have a fab/machine metal shop, a cabinet making capable wood/plastics shop & tools/experience in stone/masonry as well as 50 yrs of auto repair & custom/race car building experience. I have 2 daughters, no grandkids & really wanted/want to pass my knowledge & experience on, but... Don't know if I can pull it off. Started the shop project to give me something to live for; docs say average is 2-3 yrs, but emphasize that's an average & they've had patients last a month after finding metastasized csncer & we found it very early. So, I'm going like I don't know what cancer is, in spite of eating a liquid diet thru a 6mm silicone tube going the my abdominal wall. I'm eating right now. My L hand's holding the 'funnel' & my phone while my R thumb's pecking away. The 2019 neck surgery severed a nerve controlling a major R jaw saliva glannd & the 2020 rad damaged them both. I haven't had enough saliva to swollow food since Sept 2020, likely never will. Remember what I said about effect of treatment? Was never told this, or other stuff, was possible. Ask, badger, ask some more. Hope I get to my goal of a YT channel. 'Lord willin' & the creek don't rise.' as my granny used to say. Regards, GeoD
If you're looking for lead hit up your local tire shops for old wheel weights I used to get buckets full free from several places for making decoy weights you can melt it on a propane burner and pour into whatever shape you want just take all the appropriate precautions 👍👍👍
Congrats! I really thought you’d have a lot more difficulty raising it up. I agree with the other poster about rigidity though. This helps a bit, but a half inch plate screwed to the rear if the column would help a lot.
Hey, just so you know "mils" are standard unit of length for Electrical engineering PCB desing. When you said "20 mils" thick piece of stell i was like, no no, 20 mil is like half a milimeter. 1 mil = 1 inch / 1000. In america they allways use mils but in other parts of the world we have to know mils and milimeters both. Keep up the good work BTW :)
Outside of PCB's "mil" tends to be short for millimeter, much as "thou" tends to be a thousandth of an inch (which would likely be better than the milliinch which "Mil" relates to). The imperial lot want all the words :)
@@phillmcmanus8601 yeaa makes sense. Its just pain in a butt to have two different units of lenght that pronounce tha same. Ah maybe we will come to agreement about units one day. Until then the imperal march continues :)
"It's the year 5432 and we still haven't figured out what the mighty Artisan Makes wanted to tell us with this portray of glued together nuts and bolts. But it doesn't matter. Let's praise our lord Artisan. May he forever guard us and forgive us our sins. Oh hail Artisan you mighty!!!"
Instead of chopping up cast iron, lead sheet etc, just a few bags of Lead Shot...used in Gyms and Movie Riggers for stabilizing tripods, light stands etc. Shot size of about 4 to 9 mm will allow Good filling of spaces, and the Interstices will allow thorough flow of Resin. Much less hassles than other means. I use this system to give mass to Model Railway rolling stock ( Locos, Wagons) to give better Adhesion for motorised, and better tracking for Wagons.
In addition, have you considered strongly brackettting from the top of the head to the wall behind with Dynabolts? Vibrations tend to cause waves to the highest/furthest unsupported parts (like the top of a tower).
Nice video. Thanks for sharing your efforts to improve these relatively lightweight mills. I would have liked to see some “before” and “after” vibration measurements to get some idea of the degree of improvement. This can be done easily and cheaply with an iPhone using an app called “Vibration”. I’ve done this using a sticky wax material called “Museum Wax” to attach my iPhone to the machine, making measurements under various conditions. Obviously can’t go back and measure now, but I’m hoping others working on similar projects attempt to give us some vibration measurements so we can make better choices re improvement projects we are considering.
Man you really go all in :-). I have this same mill, but I am new to hobby machining, so am a bit hesitant to go all in on this type of mod. I did however do a mod where I removed that quill dro on the front and replaed it with a magnetic scale. Using TouchDRO, you can sum this with the Z axis scale I have on the head, so now regardless of whether I move the head or the quill, it is reflected in the Z reading on my DRO.
If you know a roofer you can buy old lead flashing off of them for way cheaper as they’d take it to the scrap metal place anyway, you save them a trip and usually give them like an extra $20 off of what they’d normally get, they’re more than happy Most good Aussie blokes will just give it to you.
With the added weight to the head you might be worth adding a traveling counterweight to the rear. my S type Kearns has a traveling counterweight but is a 1960’s factory special with 40 taper spindle but no facing gearbox so the counterweight makes it near weightless to traverse the head compared to other s type Kearns and takes all the load off the slideways
If you need more sand, most the of the big box stores like Home Depot have playground or sandbox sand in large bags and is far cheaper. You might also stop by your local tire shop and see if you can have / buy the lead weights removed from wheels to melt down.
Lead and nowdays zinc tire balancing weights is an easy and cheap way to add alot of mass. Just call your local tire shop and ask. I have gotten plenty that way for casting.
I love your videos and what you did with this one but you should have mixed the powdered filler with the resin 50 50 before you mixed the 2 together to make it more dense I have a very simpler machine and I completely overhauled it and made a completely new back colom and that was a massive improvement in itself but u think I'm inspired Anuf from you to do the table base Thank you for the awsome videos keep them coming man
Great stuff! I was really interested to see what you would do. I bolted lead ingot and steel to the head and column of mine. I'm a bit concerned that the column attachment to the base is now a weak point, and tramming makes me nervous. I'd love to think of a way to support the column, but I haven't come up with anything yet. Thanks for the video!
@@bobweiram6321 It would need to be adjustable both side to side and forward and back. I can't figure out a way to do it in all directions and have it provide enough leverage or rigidity to maintain square without adding a lot of complexity to the tramming process. I was thinking of using threaded rod out to a connection on the base, but I can't think of a good way to control forward and backward movement. Maybe you're thinking of using a gusset in a way that I haven't. Have you seen something done to a mill specifically that I can watch or see?
I would be too worried I have a big 25mm sheet of steel at the back of the mill which bolts the column to the base and allows for tramming. Cheers Edit: The bolt holes are big enough to allow leeway for tramming
There will be others with more experience/knowledge than me but I wonder if this worth all the effort. These machines are, by definition, light duty which means their components - bearings, etc - are also light duty. Will they take the heavier work you have planned without needing further major overhauls? Of course it is relatively simple to upgrade parts like this and your other modifications means the machine is physically correspondingly stronger and less likely to break.
My material of choice for adding mass to cavities is lead bird shot from a gun store it comes in plastic containers holding 10kg each then fill with liquid epoxy.
If the liquid Nails don’t crack over time I’ll be shocked and amazed! Vibration and temperature changes and lack of porosity of the metal don’t lend well to adhesion. I also would have degreased and wiped acetone over all surfaces before adding adhesive materials to castings. The lead mold weight is perfection.
Just saw and got some of that Bunn..... rubber yesterday. Wonder if Stainless steel tube filled with lead could be used to make a CNC mill? Going to need engine lift to move that thing now.
If you wanted to add lots of mass with lead and get it packed in as tight as possible while still being fully encapsulated with resin, I think either lead (or steel) fishing sinkers and/or buckshot mixed into the resin and then poured into the castings would have worked better for you...
You should try an engine block filler compound. I've used block filler in my engines to strengthen the block and you can buy this stuff in bulk. "Hard Blok Engine Block Filler" is the most popular product but there are others. Or, Devcon Aluminum Liquid would be a good choice
I had a Tom Senior vertical mill everything you see is sold cas iron . I was surprised to find the modern chinese mills are so hollow - so filling makes perfect sense
You should make your own lead shot. Get a lead pot for making sinkers and have them roll off into a bucket of water. You can literally make thousands in a fairly short time frame
Adding some gas struts to the head might further improve the vibrations and definitely improves cranking the head up and down. I added a single one on the left side, but might add a second one sometime in the future.
@@joseph9915 the heavy weight of the head (even in its stock form) kinda puts a lot of load on the Z-axis screw, which makes it a bit janky to use when cranking down and causes the head to drop a bit when you open the lock for the Z-axis. This drop probably is a combination of the backlash, some play in the gibs/ways and the fact that the Z-screw can move a bit under the vibrations of heavier cuts. The gas strut prevents the dropping, takes some vibrations off and aids in lowering and especially raising the head back up. The Z-axis now runs buttery smooth. Since I mounted it on a slight angle, it also pushes the head into the ways and removes a bit of play (adjusting the gibs will make them tighter, but the movement even more harder and jankier). All in all the gas strut seems to help quite a bit on my machine and it's a cheap mod to do. I just bought the strongest one I could find in the right length from ebay for roughly 25€, drilled and tapped some holes in the castings and turned some spacers on the lathe.
I think a ball screw conversion is better than a gas strut long term, but the gas strut is still a worthwhile upgrade for anyone who doesn’t want to go that far.
@@JordanHaisley ball screw offers a different function to the gas strut, and while they both in their own way reduce vibration, the gas strut is there to reduce vibration and alleviate the mass of certain components for reduced wear in other parts, where the ball screw is practically a zero backlash mechanism, or essentially a paradox in the machine world, as it replicates the behaviour of a solid rod that connects two pieces... The absolutely minimal backlash(in good b.screw) practically links the two components with much more rigidity than a regular leadscrew... the backlash in the regular leadscrew allows for enormous vibrations and free movement of the looser component, as the leadscrew only works out the backlash in one way by shifting it wholly on the other end of the thread, which allows for bouncing and potential vibration to rattle the system with more ease... Its essentially why the regular leadscrew in a knee mill is almost a perfect solution akin to ball screw in terms of rigidity, as the sheer mass of the apron or the knee eliminates the backlash by simply negating the option for bouncing or vibration through vector force of mass in gravity... Sure, a ballscrew is and can be much much faster running and better still in its rigidity even in a knee mill situation, but that again, is due to nature of the thing itself compared to the other...
@@HoloEN_GawrGura gas struts fail after a few cycles. theyre shit. im running an air cylinder. bit of maths on pressure and piston diameter, for me its a 20mm, or half squin, at 60 psi gives approx 15kg of counter-force for my head. (sieg x2) regulator set slightly lower than 60, and a pressure relief valve at slightly above.
Which do you prefer using in regard to garnet versus aluminum oxide? Garnet is about 66% of the cost of AO and actually weighs more by volume (bulk density of 147 lbs/ft3 versus 120). It isn't as good for actual blasting since it isn't as hard but that won't be the issue here. It also ships bone dry if you are picky about the moisture content of your mix. The lead material used reminds me of vibration dampener panels for car audio. When I soundproofed my truck, I used the butyl rubber elastomer sheet that was ridiculously dense and heavy. I wonder if that's an option. I don't recall a big roll of it being to expensive other than shipping.
Lead, being the heaviest of all common metals, you could have used lead sheeting for your containment sides ... plus, then used lead fishing sinkers (very cheap) mixed in densely with your resin. Much more mass than your cast iron and garnet sand.
Mass is certainly a good thing for light machines like this. I wonder what your next mod is going to be? If it interests you, I've seen some guys here on YT replacing the height/Z axis crank handle with an adaptor so that they can use a cordless drill or a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive cordless rattle gun/impact gun.
I love your approach. What can I do with the resources and talent available to me? Very approachable content and I look forward to implementing these lessons in many other areas.
Gotta love those results! Easy to un-wonkify the bends on a rainy day. Or extend them and fill it with concrete. :D If you ever do a cnc conversion don't forget extra heatsinks on the Z-axis, heh heh.
Some questions off the top of my head: Do you need to recalibrate the accelerations, etc. because of the weight-change? Does the added weight increase wear on the screws, etc?
Very good results for such small upgrade, but to be honest it would be exponentially better if you weren't using a wooden table as base for the mill. The biggest upgrade right now would be a metal table, just some square tubing filled with concrete would make an extreme difference
I would suggest to enjoy the reduced vibrations, but refrain from utilising the extra depth of cut apparently available, because the machine is a system, and in upgrading input power, and input torque, you also proportionally increase reaction loads on the machine from cutting forces... So something else will become the limit.... IDK what exactly. Maybe the spindle bearings, maybe the spindle itself... But if the next thing to fail has a failure mode that creates debris, you might be at risk. Or the bit to fail might be expensive and the failure might write off the machine. It is a bit like putting a formula one engine in a vw beetle without upgrading tyres, brakes, driveshafts, clutch, or gearbox. Can't end well if you actually stomp the throttle. Drive gently and you may get away with it for a while, but....
I have done the "doughnut" mod to remove flex from the toolpost mount on my lathe, and it made a huge difference because it is a lot stronger, and a lot more rigid as well.. but i am not going silly with depth of cut, i am just getting much better finishes.
its definitely at the back of my mind. as much as I like to push my machines, I'm not actively trying to break them. I think ill mostly stock to the lighter depths of cuts but Ill take full advantage of the fact that I don't have to worry as much about the vibrations and chatter. And for what its worth its running tapered roller bearings and ive put them to worse on the mini lathe and they seemed to hold up well. Cheers
Hey mate, looks good. More weight is always a good thing. Are you in Sydney's inner west by any chance? Those planes flying overhead sound awfully familiar...
Dude, you realize this is the definition of a "hack job"! 😂 As long as it works & nothing shakes lose during operation....it's all good!! Love your vids. Keep 'em coming. Also, the added weight to the head adds more pressure to the dovetails holding the head. Making scraping that gib something you might wanna do sooner than later.
Yeah its something I had in the back of my mind when doing this. I have a CAD model if the mill that I drew up in CATIA and when I have the time I might run a basic FEA. But for hat its worth there solid dovetails
@@artisanmakes I did that on my cnc router after I replaced the spindle motor with a heavier unit, I measured the amount of new mass added and ordered a gas spring with the same force as the added mass. Worked like magic.
I only have so much time in the week to do this, I just grabbed what they had at the hardware store. even if it wasn't the cheapest. I didnt have the time to go out and source lead from different sources. Even if it did mean spending a bit more. Cheers
I've been watching your channel for a while. I love your project videos. I do have two questions about this one... First did I see you chop up a piece of pretty substantial copper hex bar to use as weight for the base? That about broke my heart. Steel and iron and stuff I get but copper? And that piece looked big enough to make a whole project from. My second question is about the lead. I saw you use lead sheet to melt for the weights inside the machine. Seems to me that's a pretty expensive type of lead. If you're just going to melt it down anyway wouldn't fishing sinkers or bullets/musket balls be cheaper
I'm sure you did it this way for a combo of cost and parts availability but if you're looking for cheap lead, check your local tire shops. I have a mechanic buddy who's saved 2 tons of lead in the past couple years
Or salvage lead from a shooting range. Preferably from an indoor range with bullet traps. Just scoop away and the lead can be free, depending on the place of course.
It surprises me to hear of the lack of rigidity of your mill because i have a harbor freight mini mill with a belt drive conversion that can handle large drills, fly cutters, face mills, shell mills and even 1 inch end mills with no problems.
Yes they could make them more solid, but the extra material cost & shipping would upset the retail price....i used lead bird shot in my 10'' Lathe Headstock, worked a treat.
There's a huge difference between industrial and hobby machines, but that is also reflected in the price, we should be thankful that machine tools are affordable, and moveable without cranes. Back in the day people had to make their own lathes - without a large to make it!
Solidly tie in the motor Mount bracket to the footing using some 1” thick bar stock backed by angle iron. Then tie both the bottom into the floor and along the back into the wall. REALLY SOLLID MOUNT IT Also why not use lead shot?
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These small mills and lathes are best thought of as functional kits. I see a lot of people with these things, and it is interesting to see what everyone comes up with to build them up to another level of functionality. Love seeing the ingenuity people put into the modifications, it is all food for thought, and some ideas I have tried using. Once you start to modify, it becomes like a can of Pringles, you can't stop at one. Mine are nothing close to what I brought home new, after 10 years of having them. Well done on yours.
The question is whether it's worth doing all this both in time and money, unless you're into upgrading as a hobby in itself.
@@larrybud for the money you have to invest, you'll often only get some huge clapped out industrial machines, that need quite a bit of work too. Add to that the fact, that I not only don't have the space for them, but also have to get them down into my basement via some rather steep stairs, I'd much rather get a small chinese mill (which I did). Upgrading them might cost you the same as a big one in the long run, but it also means you don't have to pay as much upfront and you can upgrade it bit by bit as you need it. You'll also learn a lot more about your machine by doing that and you'll learn to work around some limitations.
Would I buy a bigger machine if I had infinite money? Yes, but then my workshop wouldn't be in a basement either.
@@HoloEN_GawrGura I'm not sure what the next step up is, but I know I have 500-600 pound woodworking tools in my basement. Just a matter of removing a couple of the larger parts (bed, etc) and moving them.
Like I said, it depends what you want to do. If you need to start making quality parts ASAP, doing the upgrade dance wouldn't be for you.
It's very similar to the 3d printing guys who buy the basic model, struggle with quality prints, and upgrade, upgrade, upgrade, where they would have gotten it all set in one shot.
@@larrybudIt's buy once, cry once. I'm used to machines of high quality industrial CNC machinery, even smaller manual lathes of 30k and more or Deckel vertical mills. That said, nothing compares to those.
But we're not running a business at home, it's rather a hobby, therefore a proper industrial machine doesn't make much sense. That however doesn't mean that you should get the cheapest available, as you'll never be entirely happy with it when you're honest to yourself. Upgrading small and cheap machines might improve them, but at the end of the day it's still a small and cheap machine with drawbacks. Upgrades cost money and all the tooling required also comes at a price. So in the end i highly doubt that you're better off with an upgraded small machine and the limited performance. There are many good companies out there who sell reasonably sized china mills and lathes for a good price. Those machines from china aren't bad at all these days and you start already with a better machine hence you don't have to mess around with modifications to improve it, which also cost money.
Artisan recently bought a new lathe and it's literally the type of machine i mean. It's got a proper gearbox and motor, threading and feeding gearbox aswell as X & Z auto feeds. It's a proper machine for a good price.
Same can ve said about a mill, for about 5-6k you're in for a proper china mill. Not the cheapest, not the most expensive, a good balance is the key for a hobby workshop on a limited budget.
@@AndyHack10 I can't think of one "entry level" machine that I ever bought that I was happy with, and either upgrading or replacing ended up costing more in time (and aggravation) in the long run.
At the same time, I can't think of one higher end machine that I bought that I regretted. I've had a nice Jet table saw that I bought 25 years ago that is still running strong, bought I could have bought something at 1/3 or even 1/4 the price. Same goes for a jointer and welder.
Made a 200lbs concrete base for my mini lathe to bolt too, then bolted the base to a beefed up tool box. All in all everything weighs around 500-600 lbs. Made a big difference with chatter and vibrations
My mini lathe is flaoting on a vibration isolation pad without bolting down. It had to be likethis beacuse of eighbours but its producing surprisingly well results.
More mass means less chatter and vibration. It’s what makes the machines from a century ago so much better then modern machines in so many ways.
Its not the only reason but yes
@@chrishayes5755 manual machining and CNC are two different beasts, apples and oranges. Otherwise you are correct, those machines are amazing.
I definitely agree. They were build the right way back then.
Old doesn't equal better, it's the opposite
older and modern machines are not made for the same applications, old machines are made for gigantic passes so a lot of rigidity, and modern machines need to absorb a lot more vibrations because today, we have high feed milling tools
I did something similar with the small mill I had. I used lead weights that I melted and just poured onto the prepared surface with perturbed metal fingers welded to the inside of the parts. These were anchor points to keep the lead next to the casting tightly. Worked for me really well. Lead really absorb vibration and weight. Like your different approach with other materials.
Lead is cheap at scrap yards in the US. Plumbing supply’s have it in bulk ingots too. Also lead doesn’t put off any fumes if it isn’t over heated.
Awesome rebuild. You can power scrape very fast and efficiently using a Dremel with a conical stone. If you grind the stone to a fine point using a diamond dresser, you can precisely hit the high areas.
That would be power grind, not power scrape.
For induction hardened beds you can use a small cut off disk, it’s extremely effective. For soft grey iron a 135mm rad sandvik insert with a mushroom handle scraper is arguably more efficient than a Biax. Not reason to use abrasives on soft iron
@@stevenpederson1645 It's power scraper, not power scrape. Touché!
@@bobweiram6321 No, it's not "you can power scrape" is correct grammar. "You can power scraper" is not correct grammar, however using a power scraper to power scrape makes sense, you do not.
@@stevenpederson1645 "That would be grinding, not power scraping." If ya wanna get techy wit it. Power grind is not a real process, whereas power scraping is.
You are missing some points of a epoxy granite composite.
Epoxy granite composite machine frames are designed to optimize stiffness, vibration absorption, and mass enhancement. To achieve these characteristics, the resin content in the composite is minimized to create a harmonious mixture. The goal is to have a composite frame that combines the inherent stiffness of cast iron or similar materials with additional stiffness and absorbtion provided by the composite materials.
The composite portion of the frame consists of materials with high stiffness, a high friction coefficient, and a relatively high density. "Granite" in the name refers to the inclusion of rocks or aggregates in the composite. Granite is an excellent choice for this purpose due to its quartz content, which is both stiff and has a high friction coefficient. The majority of the composite is made up of granite or rocks, providing stiffness and vibration absorption through the contact angles formed between the aggregates.
In addition to granite or rocks, fillers and additives are used to enhance the composite properties. Fillers, such as sand, are employed to fill the voids between the larger grains of the composite. Sand is an effective and affordable filler material that contributes to stiffness. The use of different grain sizes in the composite can help fill up voids while creating an interlocking structure, which further improves stiffness and vibration absorption.
Additives play a role in reducing surface friction and improving chemical/mechanical bonding within the composite or other properties. These additives can be used to enhance the overall performance and properties of the composite frame.
Fibers, such as carbon fiber, fiberglass and kevlar, can also be incorporated into the composite to further reinforce its strength and stiffness. These fibers add an additional layer of rigidity to the frame and enhance its ability to resist vibrations.
You are propable 1000% right, but then you might as well from the beginning build a behemot at some 10-20.000 kg's. What is tried achieved here is the best result with what is on hand
@@sidewind131258 You are quite right aswell, while it is true and good doing with what is on hand he did mention he wanted to stretch its capabilities so i followed up on some advise on epoxy granite composites.
This composite structure could be used to build a frame indepentent from an already stiff form, there are ways to enhance its performance and make it more cost-effective. By incorporating clean normal gravel, granite, and sand into the construction and optimizing the use of epoxy instead of going completely over-board and scientific, we can not only increase the overall weight but also significantly improve its performance. Moreover, this approach could potentially lower costs, as epoxy tends to be one of the more expensive components involved.
It is worth noting that the steel and cast iron parts used in the current setup do not effectively absorb vibrations, thus limiting the overall performance gain. By reducing the resin content and adding aggregates like granite during the casting process for the gantry, we can significantly enhance its performance.
Great job. Lead doesn't off gas or vaporise unless you go way over its melt temp. You are more at risk from skin contamination and ingestion. If you have a scrap metal yard nearby you can save a lot buying from one. Don't be tempted recycling lead acid batteries, they off gas cadmium and are extremely dangerous.
No, I am not missing the point, I am using it for different reasons then it is normally used for on say a proper epoxy granite mill. "The goal is to have a composite frame that combines the inherent stiffness of cast iron or similar materials with additional stiffness and absorbtion provided by the composite materials" Yes but that's not what im going for here. Its simply to add weight. I already have 25mm sheet of steel on the column to aid in rigidity. Cheers
@@sidewind131258 Yeah effectively this. I only had 3 afternoons and a Saturday to get everything ripped apart, cast and put back together. I think its important to make a distinction between what im doing here and what other people do when they are building a frame and encasing it in epoxy granite, because we are trying at achieve slightly different things.
I love this insane Franken-mill.
You need mostly rigidity more mass dose help but it will not solve deflection so make a structure that adds rigidity. I made a milling machine and once I welded a 2x2x1/4 steel tube from the top column to the knee it was a missive difference. You want to stop vibrations from happening in the first place instead of the mass band-aid. You can also can direct the vibrations into the stand the machine is sitting on.
Yes that is true, but I already have a thick piece of steel bracing on the back of the column to stiffen the milling machine which made a big difference. Outside of adding that I am not sure what else I can do to significantly improve the rigidity. The adding weight was sort my last ditch attempt to make the mill a bit more solid.
@@artisanmakes Even thick pieces of metal can have deflection and the leverage that is acted upon it can be amplified by distance. That is why you want to tie the top of the column to the knee to cancel that out. you want to make the strongest shape and work inside it the triangle. you will have a metal bar that will get in your way but its worth it.
the plate isnt perfect, bit it was a quick install and ill take the improvements where i can get them
Brilliant mod! Skip the comments that don't understand what you have accomplished. Most of them are probably academia and have no sense of logical applications. Hence they can tell you how to make a screw driver but don't understand what they are used for or how to use them! Thanks for posting and take care!
Well the thing is this is quite the complicated topic - hence why you can find thousands of construction businesses but only 3 that build machine beds out of epoxy granite.
Pushing my machines beyond their limits is a passion 😍
Lead flashing really is the most expensive way to go to acquire lead. I’m not sure about Australia handling laws but tire shops routinely have tons of the wheel weights you could ask about
HOWEVER
A BETTER suggestion given your location might be to inquire about SCUBA and Free diving weights. Even if lead is being phased out there should be plenty of old lead weights still available and probably for less than $230. Hope this info helps for any future equipment upgrades like this. Great video and thanks for documenting these modifications.
I only have so much time in the week to do this, I just grabbed what they had at the hardware store. even if it wasn't the cheapest
We would coat the internal structures of some bases/rails with vermiculite on large machine tools if the structure was a weldment as opposed to a casting. Since steel handles vibrations much worse than castings.
We made large horizontal borers and vertical borers.
So it certainly works well if done right
Great video.
An option for lead is to visit a tyre place, they're usually happy to give away bucketloads of old tyre balancing weights for free.
Even if they want to charge for it, you should be able to get it at scrap metal prices.
This is another interesting project, and I’m very interested to see what results you get.
However, rolled lead sheet for flashing is probably THE MOST expensive way of buying lead.
There’s tons of scrap lead around, and most people don’t want anything to do with it. Every three depot has to PAY for the scrap wheel weights to be disposed of. If you offer to take it away for free, they will likely ask you how much you need.
Scrap yards will have buckets of the stuff lying around. They also have the filthy stuff from lead acid batteries. Also, building sites will throw the excess flashing in skips.
I’ve rarely paid for any sheet metal, and never paid for lead.
My thoughts exactly on the lead sheet. I'd head over to my nearest tire shop and buy the bucket of lead wheel balancing weights that have been removed from past customers. Just pay them more than the scrap dealer which probably isn't much.
@@DavidM2002 Yep. Having been in business for many years, I’m aware that the first profit is made at the buying stage. Most people apparently simply don’t understand that basic principle.
I always put a lot of energy into tracing the supply chain as close to the original source as possible. And of course, the principle of one man’s scrap is another man’s treasure, is the ideal basis for the cheapest of supply sources - which the smartest hobbyists can always exploit to their advantage.
Fascinating as usual, to see what can be achieved if you put your mind to it. The only thing I would say (from an engineering perspective), is that this is all a trade-off. Having the ability to take greater depth of cut like this, has consequences in terms of the higher loads now being applied to the other parts of the mill you haven’t upgraded. Hopefully those parts (bearings, leadscrews, ways, etc.), are sufficiently ‘over-engineered’ to cope with these forces, ones they presumably weren’t designed for.
Two observations: I would have preferred to add to the bed rather than the base, but perhaps it is already 'full'. Secondly I would worry about the Z screw wear with the extra load. Also the wear and tear on me moving it. Perhaps a counterweight?
The weak spot with these X2 based bench mills is flex in the column, which induces unwanted nod. Adding all that weight to the head along with the much bigger motor is only exacerbating that weakness. The "fix" is to rigidly secure the column to a structural member in the wall behind the mill, as well as brace the column to the base via a triangulated member. You can add another brace on the backside of the mill, securing the column to the base, but that will only take a little but of the nod out. Put a granite square on your table and measure it with a dti. You may be shocked. I spent several hours one afternoon tramming a friends mill, and quickly realized that there is only so much that can be done with these mills. The larger RF45 based machines have the same issue.
The designer in me is screaming because the mill now contains 3 different shades of red and 3 different shades of blue.
But it's an import mini-mill not a piece of fine furniture, so I'd say you did a great job!
It’s a good thing that it’s always out of frame then :) cheers
I recently had to move my workshop at work, so I used the opportunity to paint two lathes, two pillar drills, some shelving, three bench vices, a band saw and workbench legs all battle ship grey. It looks a lot smarter now.
In the "not cheap, but I had the material on hand" category, I melted a mostly bismuth (bout 4 kg) plus a bit of antimony and tin combo for mass addition and vibration dampening. I love it ... But it makes lead look cheap.
Anyway, cool video. Thanks.
It is important to remember that while mass alone does help attenuate vibrations *in a specific frequency range*, much of the value of the epoxy granite (and composites in general) is that, beyond dampening vibrations through mass alone, composites offer further (and more significant) vibration dampening by combining a material with a very high internal friction (the epoxy) with another material that has a very high Young's Modulus (the bulk filler.)
Your Al2O3 choice is actually better than sand here for two reasons:
- It has a somewhat-higher Young's Modulus
- The shape of the grains (sharp, irregular) should ensure that the grains bear against one another (if the ratio of bulk filler to polymer resin is high enough)
Polyurethane is also a better choice than epoxy, because it has a higher Loss Coefficient than epoxy
Thanks for saying damping, rather than dampening. (You certainly don't want moist vibrations.)
I've found Blu Tack works really well for sealing epoxy pours.
Interesting upgrade, thanks for sharing. I wonder if you'd have usefully got more weight in if you'd poured lead shot into the compartments you made and then poured resin to fill the voids between the shot. Just a thought experiment, I understand you are using what you have on hand to control costs and save time.
It’s my understanding that lead shot isn’t readily available to buy here
@@artisanmakes there is a mob in brisbane (and online) called "rebel gun works" that sell lead shot for reloading shotgun shells in various sizes. 1kg or 10kg bags :)
Not my state but they do seem to sell it. About the same price for what I paid for my lead
@@artisanmakes It's relatively easy to make it by dripping molten lead into a (large) bucket of cold water from 2-3m height. You won't get perfect results (as in a shot tower) but it should be good enough for the task
As usual a thoughtful and helpful video that reflects your enjoyment of the hobby. Keep on old son. Cheers.
I really enjoy your videos. You explain things very well and I learn quite a bit from you. I am retired and have some machinery in my hobby shop, and really appreciate your knowledge and videos. Thank you for sharing, you make my life better!
Real cool adding the weight to the mill but can we get high five and a thumbs up for how good your scraping looks right on bro looks like those old school machines with the fish scaling your ways looks top shelf wow 👌
Cheers, thankyou
4mm on a milling machine like that 😮
Fantastic work as always, Very entertaining and hugely insightful! 😊
It’s great to see you thinking of how to improve your existing tools instead of buying bigger ones. Great job.
If you do any future lead or zinc alloy stuff you can simply use a cut off propane canister as a crucible and get plenty of life from it. You can do the same with Aluminum, but it's a gamble after it's second use.
I know the struggle of finding lead, I find that the best option is facebook marketplace or going to a junkyard and paying $1 a pound
A number of years ago, I decided to add a lathe & mill to my fab shop.
A long term goal, I kept my eyes on Craigs List for the real expense in machining, tooling & accessories.
I saw an ad, "30# of end mills - $40", & nearly broke my arm calling. Headed off & scored 30# of end mills; 80% new, 20% slightly used, from 1/2" dbl end to 1.25". It was a major score. It felt like theft; tried to give the young guy more, but he refused.
They were his recently deceased dad's, he knew what they were worth, but didn't care.
Then he said, you in the market for a lathe?
Yeah...
"Be right back."
I thought was going for keys &/or shoes to take me to a shop, as we were in his living room.
Surprised me when he came back w/ what looked to be a toy lathe. About a ft & 1/2 long, he said $50; no motor, but it's got a bunch of other stuff. Dad used it until the motor died.
Feeling bad about the mills, I gave him $50 & left.
When I got home, did some research & learned I'd bought a Sherline precision mini lathe.
A yr+ of research & learning about lathes & I scavenged a free treadmill for the motor.
I'd read how important rigidity & mass were, so I skipped Sherline's recommendation of mounting it on 3/4" plywood.
I salvage granite & marble for projects & always have a lot around. I'd used a 1 1/8" thick sink cut out scrap as part of a T-slot table for a precision metal cutting saw I built & was happy w/ it.
I has some 1/2" 6061 T-6 aluminum someone gave me. They were 24 x 18", machined & anodized bases from a closed manufacturer.
I laid 3 to make a base 36 x 42, then bolted 3 more in opposite layout, for a ttl 1", then made another one.
I made a sandwich by glueing & bolting a slab of 1 1/8" granite between the 2 - 1" 6061 pieces.
I mounted the lathe on this. I then fab a motor mount, attaching to both the sandwiched base & rigidly to the headstock using heim joints & 8mm threaded end shaft. The heims allowed me to dial in both alignment & rigidity. The motor mount was made from over-sized SS & steel I had. I bought nothing but fasteners.
The DC treadmill motor had no low end torque, so I need an intermediate shaft. A neighbor who sold used cars on CL gave a pile of alternators for scrapping.
I was looking at the pile while thinking about an intermediate shaft when I realized 2 of the Motorola alternators were identical, except for the width.
I looked & saw they were different amp capacity; the width gave more windings, which = more amps.
I lined the 2 up & realized if I used the front half & the rotor from the big amp, & the back half of the low amp, I'd end up w/ a dual shaft alternator.
That became my intermidiate shaft assy. Used treadmill OEM multi-vee pulley & belt w/ a small multi-vee pulley from a tile wet saw, (had to buy it-damn!), then used the largest dia cogged timing sprocket that'd fit on the other side of alt.
Found a very small cogged sprocket for the lathe spindle & I ended up w/ a variable speed DC motor w/ plenty of low RPM torque & 5k top spindle speed for
You seem quite knowledgeable and with the right set of skills. Why don't you make a few videos and teach us some things? I'm dead serious!! A lot of US could benefit! Not many young guys like me have the time to learn so much on our own withoht somebody to teach them and still have time to work, build the base for a future home and family and save Money and so on and so on... Thank you
@@att49356 Thanks for the kind words. Launching a YT channel is something I started planning a couple of years before Covid. I communicated w/ successful YT's in relevant areas & thoroughly educated & prepared myself, I was ready.
I've made & repaired cars, houses, consumer 'stuff' since sge 12, I'm now 70. I found time to go to college & grad school, my master's work was in Exercise Physiology, Education & Counseling to support my chosen field of Sports Medicine. I quickly learned it's best a single person's field unless you are very fortunate in your job; just too much travel. I abbreviated my career at 12+ yrs, leaving at my peak, working for the Dodgers org. I founded & operated a computer manufacturing, network installation & IT service business, running it until a life altering brain injury in 2003 end it all.
I'm better than I was in 04-05, but still have my struggles.
The fall before Covidd, I was searching for a videographer just getting started to offer a partnership, business mentorship & a jump start on their life when I contracted Covid. I was a very early case, no body knew anything about it.
If it hadn't been for my medical background, I likely wouldn't be writing. As was, 5 weeks later, when I finally had the energy to shave, I found an extremely swollen lymph node under my R ear. I knew what it was, just not why/how. An MRI found & a CT scan confirmed a necrotic lymph node. By then, it was during lockdown; I'm thinking, 'Great, the worst pandemic in the US & I have to have surgery.'
In May, I see a head/neck surgeon. Five minutes into the consult, he drops this: You have HPV related throat cancer.
Not ONE person prior had even hinted the chance.
July '19 I had throat & neck surgery. By Nov, I had a clean bil l of health, no cancer.
By Mar '20, I was back about very bad R ear ache, (only symptom ever had w/ cancer & only ear ache I'd ever had.)
I knew the score going in; was told, cancer's back. I had a roof to get done on my house & put off trestment as long as they let me & I could stand the ear aches. Started chemo & radiation.
Seven weeks later, I was in much better physical shape from a strenuous workout all thru treatment & felt great. Four days later I was in bed, I couldn't dit without help for 3 months, & couldn't get out of bed for another.
I went from nearly the best physical condition since I was a competitive athlete in college & 185 #'s to 150# & too weak to start a lead blower, (I tried & it's the easiest of the 6-8 2 cycles I own).
I was finally back on my feet, about 75%, by the end of '22, early '23.
A completely unrelated CT scan from '22 had turned up a pancreatic cyst, which got overlooked. My throat onco caught spring '23 & referred me.
A specialized MRI of my pancreas picked up a 'spot on my liver'.
Yep, cancer. Had radiation last summer. Next week I go for my 6 month scan & genetic blood test to see if the treatment has impacted the tumor positively.
Heaven forbid, but if you or yours ever get cancer, be thoroughly prepared & badger the damn docs about the effect of treatments so you are prepared. They don't want to be completely honest 'cause they're afraid of scaring people.
My gawd, you have cancer, by the time treatments over, you're way burned out on fright.
The other thing to prepare for is the wait... the wait to get better, (recovery is gauged in weeks or months) & the interminable wait for 'results' of scans & tests to find out if you're going to see another summer.
As is said, great minds think alike, & your great mind is thinking the same as my damaged mind, but life has got in the way.
I embarked on a shop remodel/expansion & 25 yr overdue re-org. I have a fab/machine metal shop, a cabinet making capable wood/plastics shop & tools/experience in stone/masonry as well as 50 yrs of auto repair & custom/race car building experience.
I have 2 daughters, no grandkids & really wanted/want to pass my knowledge & experience on, but...
Don't know if I can pull it off. Started the shop project to give me something to live for; docs say average is 2-3 yrs, but emphasize that's an average & they've had patients last a month after finding metastasized csncer & we found it very early.
So, I'm going like I don't know what cancer is, in spite of eating a liquid diet thru a 6mm silicone tube going the my abdominal wall. I'm eating right now.
My L hand's holding the 'funnel' & my phone while my R thumb's pecking away. The 2019 neck surgery severed a nerve controlling a major R jaw saliva glannd & the 2020 rad damaged them both. I haven't had enough saliva to swollow food since Sept 2020, likely never will.
Remember what I said about effect of treatment? Was never told this, or other stuff, was possible. Ask, badger, ask some more.
Hope I get to my goal of a YT channel.
'Lord willin' & the creek don't rise.' as my granny used to say.
Regards,
GeoD
If you're looking for lead hit up your local tire shops for old wheel weights I used to get buckets full free from several places for making decoy weights you can melt it on a propane burner and pour into whatever shape you want just take all the appropriate precautions 👍👍👍
Congrats! I really thought you’d have a lot more difficulty raising it up. I agree with the other poster about rigidity though. This helps a bit, but a half inch plate screwed to the rear if the column would help a lot.
About a year ago I shoved a 20mm plate on the back to close off the back of the column. Made a huge difference
Hey, just so you know "mils" are standard unit of length for Electrical engineering PCB desing. When you said "20 mils" thick piece of stell i was like, no no, 20 mil is like half a milimeter. 1 mil = 1 inch / 1000. In america they allways use mils but in other parts of the world we have to know mils and milimeters both. Keep up the good work BTW :)
Outside of PCB's "mil" tends to be short for millimeter, much as "thou" tends to be a thousandth of an inch (which would likely be better than the milliinch which "Mil" relates to). The imperial lot want all the words :)
@@phillmcmanus8601 yeaa makes sense. Its just pain in a butt to have two different units of lenght that pronounce tha same. Ah maybe we will come to agreement about units one day. Until then the imperal march continues :)
I can imagine someone in the distant future, long after you're gone, dismantling the mill base and thinking 'what the actual f***?!'
I think they'll know when they load it in their truck.
"It's the year 5432 and we still haven't figured out what the mighty Artisan Makes wanted to tell us with this portray of glued together nuts and bolts. But it doesn't matter. Let's praise our lord Artisan. May he forever guard us and forgive us our sins. Oh hail Artisan you mighty!!!"
Very impressive. You are getting all from your mini-mill it has to give. As you pointed out fitting the gibs will help too.
Instead of chopping up cast iron, lead sheet etc, just a few bags of Lead Shot...used in Gyms and Movie Riggers for stabilizing tripods, light stands etc.
Shot size of about 4 to 9 mm will allow
Good filling of spaces, and the Interstices will allow thorough flow of Resin.
Much less hassles than other means.
I use this system to give mass to Model Railway rolling stock ( Locos, Wagons) to give better Adhesion for motorised, and better tracking for Wagons.
Lead shot isnt readily available where I live unfortunately
Sending hopes an prayers that the glued parts don't rattle loose shortly
Moltin lead slowly poured into water will make lead spatter that would mix into the epoxy and perhaps help get better density.
In addition, have you considered strongly brackettting from the top of the head to the wall behind with Dynabolts? Vibrations tend to cause waves to the highest/furthest unsupported parts (like the top of a tower).
Nice video. Thanks for sharing your efforts to improve these relatively lightweight mills.
I would have liked to see some “before” and “after” vibration measurements to get some idea of the degree of improvement. This can be done easily and cheaply with an iPhone using an app called “Vibration”. I’ve done this using a sticky wax material called “Museum Wax” to attach my iPhone to the machine, making measurements under various conditions.
Obviously can’t go back and measure now, but I’m hoping others working on similar projects attempt to give us some vibration measurements so we can make better choices re improvement projects we are considering.
Man you really go all in :-). I have this same mill, but I am new to hobby machining, so am a bit hesitant to go all in on this type of mod. I did however do a mod where I removed that quill dro on the front and replaed it with a magnetic scale. Using TouchDRO, you can sum this with the Z axis scale I have on the head, so now regardless of whether I move the head or the quill, it is reflected in the Z reading on my DRO.
If you know a roofer you can buy old lead flashing off of them for way cheaper as they’d take it to the scrap metal place anyway, you save them a trip and usually give them like an extra $20 off of what they’d normally get, they’re more than happy
Most good Aussie blokes will just give it to you.
With the added weight to the head you might be worth adding a traveling counterweight to the rear. my S type Kearns has a traveling counterweight but is a 1960’s factory special with 40 taper spindle but no facing gearbox so the counterweight makes it near weightless to traverse the head compared to other s type Kearns and takes all the load off the slideways
If you need more sand, most the of the big box stores like Home Depot have playground or sandbox sand in large bags and is far cheaper. You might also stop by your local tire shop and see if you can have / buy the lead weights removed from wheels to melt down.
My own way to get lead is going to tire repair shops and there they usually have bunch of used small waights they use to balanse wheels.
Looks like a good upgrade.Good luck.Thank you.
Read the development of Moore jig bore. It set the standards for anti vibration and accuracy with heat.
Lead and nowdays zinc tire balancing weights is an easy and cheap way to add alot of mass.
Just call your local tire shop and ask. I have gotten plenty that way for casting.
I love your videos and what you did with this one but you should have mixed the powdered filler with the resin 50 50 before you mixed the 2 together to make it more dense I have a very simpler machine and I completely overhauled it and made a completely new back colom and that was a massive improvement in itself but u think I'm inspired Anuf from you to do the table base
Thank you for the awsome videos keep them coming man
Great stuff! I was really interested to see what you would do. I bolted lead ingot and steel to the head and column of mine. I'm a bit concerned that the column attachment to the base is now a weak point, and tramming makes me nervous. I'd love to think of a way to support the column, but I haven't come up with anything yet. Thanks for the video!
Bolt or weld on a gusset plate at the bottom of the base.
@@bobweiram6321 It would need to be adjustable both side to side and forward and back. I can't figure out a way to do it in all directions and have it provide enough leverage or rigidity to maintain square without adding a lot of complexity to the tramming process. I was thinking of using threaded rod out to a connection on the base, but I can't think of a good way to control forward and backward movement. Maybe you're thinking of using a gusset in a way that I haven't. Have you seen something done to a mill specifically that I can watch or see?
I would be too worried I have a big 25mm sheet of steel at the back of the mill which bolts the column to the base and allows for tramming. Cheers Edit: The bolt holes are big enough to allow leeway for tramming
There will be others with more experience/knowledge than me but I wonder if this worth all the effort.
These machines are, by definition, light duty which means their components - bearings, etc - are also light duty.
Will they take the heavier work you have planned without needing further major overhauls?
Of course it is relatively simple to upgrade parts like this and your other modifications means the machine is physically correspondingly stronger and less likely to break.
The bearings aren't light duty. They're SKS tapered rollers and they are operating below capacity. As youd know those are tough bearings. Cheers
@@artisanmakes I had missed that you had already upgraded the bearings.
My material of choice for adding mass to cavities is lead bird shot from a gun store it comes in plastic containers holding 10kg each then fill with liquid epoxy.
That might work for you but lead shot isn’t readily available here. Cheers
If the liquid Nails don’t crack over time I’ll be shocked and amazed! Vibration and temperature changes and lack of porosity of the metal don’t lend well to adhesion. I also would have degreased and wiped acetone over all surfaces before adding adhesive materials to castings. The lead mold weight is perfection.
Oh I did that but I don’t think I added in editing. Editing down 300-400 bits of film and inevitably something will get left out. Cheers
",i ran outta liquid nails half way through"
brother i felt that one lol
Just saw and got some of that Bunn..... rubber yesterday. Wonder if Stainless steel tube filled with lead could be used to make a CNC mill? Going to need engine lift to move that thing now.
Nice end result
Thanks for sharing
Cheers
If you wanted to add lots of mass with lead and get it packed in as tight as possible while still being fully encapsulated with resin, I think either lead (or steel) fishing sinkers and/or buckshot mixed into the resin and then poured into the castings would have worked better for you...
You can also get old tungsten tools and bits which are even denser
what about the spindle bearings?
are you not over taxing them?
You should try an engine block filler compound. I've used block filler in my engines to strengthen the block and you can buy this stuff in bulk. "Hard Blok Engine Block Filler" is the most popular product but there are others. Or, Devcon Aluminum Liquid would be a good choice
Looking forward to see what projects you use it for!
I had a Tom Senior vertical mill everything you see is sold cas iron . I was surprised to find the modern chinese mills are so hollow - so filling makes perfect sense
Nice upgrade, thanks for sharing 👍.
Every time this guy wants a new machine, he goes and sticks a 3hp motor on it.
You should make your own lead shot. Get a lead pot for making sinkers and have them roll off into a bucket of water. You can literally make thousands in a fairly short time frame
Brake rotors also make nice wind chimes.
Adding some gas struts to the head might further improve the vibrations and definitely improves cranking the head up and down. I added a single one on the left side, but might add a second one sometime in the future.
But would that make it so that the head moves up and down with backlash easier if there was less wight on it?
@@joseph9915 the heavy weight of the head (even in its stock form) kinda puts a lot of load on the Z-axis screw, which makes it a bit janky to use when cranking down and causes the head to drop a bit when you open the lock for the Z-axis. This drop probably is a combination of the backlash, some play in the gibs/ways and the fact that the Z-screw can move a bit under the vibrations of heavier cuts. The gas strut prevents the dropping, takes some vibrations off and aids in lowering and especially raising the head back up. The Z-axis now runs buttery smooth. Since I mounted it on a slight angle, it also pushes the head into the ways and removes a bit of play (adjusting the gibs will make them tighter, but the movement even more harder and jankier). All in all the gas strut seems to help quite a bit on my machine and it's a cheap mod to do. I just bought the strongest one I could find in the right length from ebay for roughly 25€, drilled and tapped some holes in the castings and turned some spacers on the lathe.
I think a ball screw conversion is better than a gas strut long term, but the gas strut is still a worthwhile upgrade for anyone who doesn’t want to go that far.
@@JordanHaisley ball screw offers a different function to the gas strut, and while they both in their own way reduce vibration, the gas strut is there to reduce vibration and alleviate the mass of certain components for reduced wear in other parts, where the ball screw is practically a zero backlash mechanism, or essentially a paradox in the machine world, as it replicates the behaviour of a solid rod that connects two pieces... The absolutely minimal backlash(in good b.screw) practically links the two components with much more rigidity than a regular leadscrew... the backlash in the regular leadscrew allows for enormous vibrations and free movement of the looser component, as the leadscrew only works out the backlash in one way by shifting it wholly on the other end of the thread, which allows for bouncing and potential vibration to rattle the system with more ease... Its essentially why the regular leadscrew in a knee mill is almost a perfect solution akin to ball screw in terms of rigidity, as the sheer mass of the apron or the knee eliminates the backlash by simply negating the option for bouncing or vibration through vector force of mass in gravity... Sure, a ballscrew is and can be much much faster running and better still in its rigidity even in a knee mill situation, but that again, is due to nature of the thing itself compared to the other...
@@HoloEN_GawrGura gas struts fail after a few cycles. theyre shit.
im running an air cylinder. bit of maths on pressure and piston diameter, for me its a 20mm, or half squin, at 60 psi gives approx 15kg of counter-force for my head. (sieg x2)
regulator set slightly lower than 60, and a pressure relief valve at slightly above.
Which do you prefer using in regard to garnet versus aluminum oxide? Garnet is about 66% of the cost of AO and actually weighs more by volume (bulk density of 147 lbs/ft3 versus 120). It isn't as good for actual blasting since it isn't as hard but that won't be the issue here. It also ships bone dry if you are picky about the moisture content of your mix. The lead material used reminds me of vibration dampener panels for car audio. When I soundproofed my truck, I used the butyl rubber elastomer sheet that was ridiculously dense and heavy. I wonder if that's an option. I don't recall a big roll of it being to expensive other than shipping.
consider changing bearings of the spindle if you haven't. they take the most of the hard hits
It’s running sks tapered roller bearings
When you pulled that table off and i thought for a moment the saddle was factory scraped my jaw literally dropped.
If only. I don't think I'd trust their factory scraping if they did it :) cheers
Lead, being the heaviest of all common metals, you could have used lead sheeting for your containment sides ... plus, then used lead fishing sinkers (very cheap) mixed in densely with your resin. Much more mass than your cast iron and garnet sand.
Sure I guess but it would have been somewhat more expensive than this. Either way you’ll still see improvements
Mass is certainly a good thing for light machines like this. I wonder what your next mod is going to be?
If it interests you, I've seen some guys here on YT replacing the height/Z axis crank handle with an adaptor so that they can use a cordless drill or a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive cordless rattle gun/impact gun.
I love your approach. What can I do with the resources and talent available to me? Very approachable content and I look forward to implementing these lessons in many other areas.
You put out great videos. I always learn something.
Very good job. Your application looks great and I will give it some more thought doing mine.
Gotta love those results! Easy to un-wonkify the bends on a rainy day. Or extend them and fill it with concrete. :D If you ever do a cnc conversion don't forget extra heatsinks on the Z-axis, heh heh.
Some questions off the top of my head:
Do you need to recalibrate the accelerations, etc. because of the weight-change?
Does the added weight increase wear on the screws, etc?
Very good results for such small upgrade, but to be honest it would be exponentially better if you weren't using a wooden table as base for the mill. The biggest upgrade right now would be a metal table, just some square tubing filled with concrete would make an extreme difference
The stable is steel frame including steel supports for the mill base to bolt to, the wood is just for show
Saga of Endless upgrades of the Mini Lathe has ended... Let the Mini Mill Saga begin! 😀
Ive heard that you can usually get fairly cheap lead from scrap wheel weights or something. Idk might be worth it to look into!
I would suggest to enjoy the reduced vibrations, but refrain from utilising the extra depth of cut apparently available, because the machine is a system, and in upgrading input power, and input torque, you also proportionally increase reaction loads on the machine from cutting forces... So something else will become the limit.... IDK what exactly. Maybe the spindle bearings, maybe the spindle itself... But if the next thing to fail has a failure mode that creates debris, you might be at risk. Or the bit to fail might be expensive and the failure might write off the machine.
It is a bit like putting a formula one engine in a vw beetle without upgrading tyres, brakes, driveshafts, clutch, or gearbox. Can't end well if you actually stomp the throttle. Drive gently and you may get away with it for a while, but....
I have done the "doughnut" mod to remove flex from the toolpost mount on my lathe, and it made a huge difference because it is a lot stronger, and a lot more rigid as well.. but i am not going silly with depth of cut, i am just getting much better finishes.
its definitely at the back of my mind. as much as I like to push my machines, I'm not actively trying to break them. I think ill mostly stock to the lighter depths of cuts but Ill take full advantage of the fact that I don't have to worry as much about the vibrations and chatter. And for what its worth its running tapered roller bearings and ive put them to worse on the mini lathe and they seemed to hold up well. Cheers
I only wish you would have painted the red parts blue. Thats just how my brain works. Good luck with the upgrades.
Hey mate, looks good. More weight is always a good thing. Are you in Sydney's inner west by any chance? Those planes flying overhead sound awfully familiar...
No I’m not
Great job. Looked like that table was a bit heavier than expected. 😉
I made a wide base with colum support with triangle supports from 1/4 plate bolted to colum,, the bolts at colum to base are the problem
Dude, you realize this is the definition of a "hack job"! 😂 As long as it works & nothing shakes lose during operation....it's all good!!
Love your vids. Keep 'em coming.
Also, the added weight to the head adds more pressure to the dovetails holding the head. Making scraping that gib something you might wanna do sooner than later.
Yeah its something I had in the back of my mind when doing this. I have a CAD model if the mill that I drew up in CATIA and when I have the time I might run a basic FEA. But for hat its worth there solid dovetails
Next step, counterweight for the head?
Just an idea, if there's not enough space inside, build molds in the outside and cast non-shrinking groute all over and under it.
A four mm cut is really spectacular for that little machine. Question is now, what will be the next weak point? :)
Im not exactly sure and im not sure if I can get that much mor out of it. Might have to have a long think about what to do next
very cool project! and nice results :)
Use a gas spring to counter act the added weight. This will make it easier to raise and lower the head just like it did before adding the weight.
Yes I have seen some people do that on the smaller X2 mills. Might have to look into adding that here
@@artisanmakes I did that on my cnc router after I replaced the spindle motor with a heavier unit, I measured the amount of new mass added and ordered a gas spring with the same force as the added mass. Worked like magic.
You can get cheap lead from car wheel weights at a scrap yard. You could melt it and make it into ingots to fir in the mill aswell.
I only have so much time in the week to do this, I just grabbed what they had at the hardware store. even if it wasn't the cheapest. I didnt have the time to go out and source lead from different sources. Even if it did mean spending a bit more. Cheers
I've been watching your channel for a while. I love your project videos. I do have two questions about this one...
First did I see you chop up a piece of pretty substantial copper hex bar to use as weight for the base? That about broke my heart. Steel and iron and stuff I get but copper? And that piece looked big enough to make a whole project from.
My second question is about the lead. I saw you use lead sheet to melt for the weights inside the machine. Seems to me that's a pretty expensive type of lead. If you're just going to melt it down anyway wouldn't fishing sinkers or bullets/musket balls be cheaper
With the extra mass on the head, I wonder if a mast top pulley and counterweight might be advisable to reduce excess load on the gearing system?
I'm sure you did it this way for a combo of cost and parts availability but if you're looking for cheap lead, check your local tire shops. I have a mechanic buddy who's saved 2 tons of lead in the past couple years
Or salvage lead from a shooting range. Preferably from an indoor range with bullet traps. Just scoop away and the lead can be free, depending on the place of course.
It surprises me to hear of the lack of rigidity of your mill because i have a harbor freight mini mill with a belt drive conversion that can handle large drills, fly cutters, face mills, shell mills and even 1 inch end mills with no problems.
Yes they could make them more solid, but the extra material cost & shipping would upset the retail price....i used lead bird shot in my 10'' Lathe Headstock, worked a treat.
Yeah I don't want to make it out like im trying to fault the machine. Its a good mill but Im just trying to push it a bit further. Cheers
There's a huge difference between industrial and hobby machines, but that is also reflected in the price, we should be thankful that machine tools are affordable, and moveable without cranes. Back in the day people had to make their own lathes - without a large to make it!
@@artisanmakes You're showing improvments can be made, and that's always good.
Solidly tie in the motor Mount bracket to the footing using some 1” thick bar stock backed by angle iron. Then tie both the bottom into the floor and along the back into the wall. REALLY SOLLID MOUNT IT
Also why not use lead shot?
Maybe he didn't have lead shots ???
Lead shot isn't readily available in my part of the world.
@@artisanmakes gotcha. led shot and led bar is super cheap here NA. not uncommon to see about 1usd per lb or so. wish i could ship it to ya
Really nice Projekt. Would it be possible to build a counterweight for the Millinghead?