You take the term manual machining to a whole other level! Obviously a labor of love. Nice work and looking forward to the hardening and final fitment.
Link To Part 2 - Heat Treating: th-cam.com/video/TDj-7UXNgFk/w-d-xo.html For being a so called "screwless vise" I count a total of 4 screws. I need to speak to the person who comes up with the names for these :) In all seriousness I hope you enjoy this build series, it has been in the works for the past 3 months. Tune in next week for some heat treatment. Cheers guys
Could use rivets! 🤣 3months?? I'm new to machining, like 4months in and while I enjoy it, ive learned it chews through my time! Being a new dad I don't have near the time I used to! Do you mind sharing how many hours you spend machining on week days and weekends? Like 1hr a night? Appreciate you and love your content!
This is a project in our machine/tool and die class at our local tech. Very good in teaching many applications on a single project. Plus the students get to use it at their respective shops.
As for what you said at 1:36 about the "...irony of making a vise...". It's like what the late Joe Martin, of Sherline Tools, Said in his book, "...machining craft is making the tool that makes a tool, that makes the tool...". So, you're good. Awesome project. Great channel and content.
I especially enjoy and appreciate your ad-libbing of materials and tooling, as alternate techniques to accomplish your builds, rather then just throwing money at them. As a postscript, you might discuss what you would do differently, as to material choices, etc., versus, acquiring / purchasing, specific materials. In my own experience, I’ve found that building specific work holding fixtures etc, it’s effective to use non-hardenable materials, provided, they will see limited use. Other times, I’ve found myself wishing I’d opted for the more suitable materials, for the amount of use they see. In several instances, the non-hardenable projects have ended up as essentially, prototypes, with subsequent builds using more suitable materials and incorporating changes and improvements, usually aimed at increased efficiency and versatility.
A few years ago, someone wrote an article in Machinist's Workshop magazine where they did some testing on 'hardening mild steel'. He tried adding salt and various other 'old wives tale' stuff but got no significant changes. Using ordinary dish soap as 'additive' to water found it actually did make low carbon steel significantly harder. I forget the Brinnel number increase but it was worthwhile. ( he 'just happened to have a hardness tester in his workshop) Authors daughter was a materials engineer and said it was due to the surfectant preventing steam bubbles insulating the material
Looking good 👍👍👍small tip for you if you'd like to extend the life of your cutters .whenever working with hot rolled steel remove the mill scale first. mill scale is very hard and wears cutter edges much faster than the steel under it. you can grind it off or if you've got time you can also soak it over night in pure regular household 6% vinegar to dissolve it. if you're in a real hurry you can also remove it in a couple minutes with muratic acid it's fast but much more dangerous than vinegar. you can also remove it by taking a deep enough cut to get totally under it but may not be easy to do with a small mill and still is a lil hard on cutter edges .just remember after either acid treatment as soon as you dry it you need to oil it because it will flash rust instantly anyway just thought I'd pass that along 👍👍👍
Between Clickspring, Inheritance Machining, and your channel, I have more fun and enjoyment. And I'm not a machinist. But my grandfather was, and the stories of his experience were just fascinating.
I inherited a vise from an old friend that's almost identical to this one your making. The only difference so far is the welded pin, he captured it with a set screw but his vise sits just a little higher from the base and didn't have to keep that part as low profile. I'm enjoying the video !
I took it to my friends shop, and he filled all of this area with the liquid lead oh man oh man three times heavier right now. that thing work like a champion now
I did mine slightly different, I machined the fixed jaw and the body in situ and Ground it round afterwards. I just machined the moving jaw as a separate detail 👍
nice job. Increase your coolant flow. Do it strong enough that you cause the chips to be carried away immediately. This reduces recutting of chips, allows you to increase speeds and feeds, increases your precision and really improves the finishes you can get. I use a mister set for high air flow and low on the synthetic water-soluble mist solution.
Instead of cutting the relief in the base, you could also chamfer the moving jaw.. does the trick also, and is much less work. Do a Climb milling finishing pass.. that will greatly improve surface quality. The Clamping part could also be turned, Just machine a boss on one end, that fits in the Base, flip it over, make a similar boss on the other side, and make sure the part in between the bosses fits in the base, then, drill and tap a hole in it, and you're golden.
Kyle, that's been overdue for a long while. He must have a right arm like Popeye. Bigger muscles than the left but it's not from opening spinach cans but cutting huge chunks of steel . Nice job, so far, all the same. Looking forward to solving the hardness problem and the finishing. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤔💩🤞🇺🇲🦃🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦🍌👍
I've gone back to the hacksaw for a lot of things now because of this and it's nicer to take care of your cut than just power it through on a machine, the shed is my happy place
Very cool. I had in mind to make a brass hammer, which i have drawn already. But even though yours is simple, it looks extremely clean and efficient. Great job sir !
I have watched this several times, instead of using a slitting saw to releive the clamping slit could you not run a dovetail cutter along . This will give a relief
Im guessing you are probably already aware of this, but in one of Chris' (Clickspring) videos "antikythera fragment first hardened steel" or something to that effect, he goes over a way to harden mild steel. I replicates his process on a boring bar tool holder i made for the lathe, and it worked very well. I originally started it as he did by taking leather and turning it into coal, but that was rather tedius when charcoal is already available. I used coal from wood and it worked. 6 parts coal, 4 parts salt, 3 parts flour. Add some water to make a paste and put it around your part. Then use clay to envelope all of it, and throw it in a forge or coal fire anything to get it red hot for about a half hour.
Glad to hear it. I remember the video from way back, and I'm glad of worked out for you. Whilst I'm sure it is a good method for hardening, it probably wouldn't suit my part because of the shape. So I went about it slightly differently. Cheers
Can you scrape carbon steel effectively? I have done a small amount of cast iron scraping but I have seen a video of someone attempting to scrape a carbon steel of some sort and it didn't seem to scrape all that nicely.
@@artisanmakes this guy has video about carbon steel scraping th-cam.com/video/FgxjiEBhKvM/w-d-xo.html . Also i belive you will surface harden the part ;)
Case hardening or nitriding? I’m curious which one you have access to and how you are going to get the hardened parts to final dimension. Do you have a surface grinder hiding somewhere?
You should let carbide get hot and not use as much coolant. Also for the relief instead of using a slitting saw you could have set the vise on 45 deg angle plates and used an 1/8 endmill.
I usually don't bother with coolant but on this cut it really seemed to help the carbide. And in sure an endmill would have gotten similar enough results to the saw. Many ways to do the same thing
From what I have experienced with these specific vises, they tend to made made from steel and hardened, rather than from cast. And cast iron is relatively inexpensive, but most of the cast that is sold commercially at my suppliers is in the form of round bar, rather than flat bar.
I am an aspiring machine user, that is I have none but I have seen hundreds of videos. What I am amazed over is how "easy" it is to create a working "thing" from scratch. But what I do not get is how the makers can create anything so precise with what to my eye looks like an insane amount of runout and play. Had to pause this video now to comment this as I am at the +- 5 minute mark watching the very visible drill wobble when drilling and tapping the holes. Does this not matter as much as I feel it should?
You can have run out and depending on the application you can work around it or it doesn't matter, or it falls within a large tolerance window (which most good designs should have). That run out was just the nature of the machine before it had its bearings replaced and I worked around it just fine.
Great project. Wonder how you will re-enforce it. Or make it again and call this a dress rehearsal? Thanks for the heat treatment experiment. That answers my previous episode's question. Oh, and I also have an old drill press vise, so, I'm going to steal your angle vise idea.
I didn't, I just turned it off until I got super deep in the hole. The flood coolant was just spilling all over the table and floor. It's great stuff to have but it is a very messy thing to use
Those endmills in a wobbly jackobs chuck.... no no. I know its just roughing a cbore, but still not safe practice. And you should start taped holes in the mill.
I suggest that you modify your design. The keyway for the fixed jaw should be near the back edge and the fasteners should be close to the face of the fixed jaw. Clamping force will impose a lateral load on the fixed jaw which in turn will attempt to tip it backwards. The only resistance to this movement are the fasteners holding jaw down. You're going to experience significant deflection because your fasteners are way to close to the pivot point. When you're done, you should test jaw displacement with a sensitive DTI. I'm confident that you won't be happy with the results.
It is a fair suggestion and ill probably change my cad drawings to reflect it. With that said ive already put this vice thorough its paces and it seems to be quite solid and produce some quite repeatable parts, at least on my relatively small mill. If have a spare moment might run a sim in CATIA and see what deflection I could get. Might be easier since my DTI probably isn't up to snuff for that type of stuff. Cheers
Damn dude i have that same blue vise waiting to be thrown through an Amazon window for my return. Although i did think it would be a cool idea to use a shitty vise and make a nice one, but id have to make a mill with a shitty mill first
This is a great project. Ironically, I just started to attempt to make the same thing a few weeks ago. Since I didn't have anything other than pictures on the internet to try determine sizes and clamping design, I came to a stall very quickly. Where did you find the drawings you are using? Could you send me the link for them please. I certainly have done things in a different order than you have, hopefully I don't regret that...LOL Looking forward to the rest of this series of videos. Absolutely love your channel. Thanks so much for sharing! Cheers from Canada
I ran out of travel on the table so I had to move the part in the vise to cut the final bit of the slot but the part didn't seat correctly in the vise and I forgot to tap it in with the hammer.
I use dcgt and dcmt inserts. Not really suited for this work and I'll probably be switching back to tcmt and tcgt inserts when they arrive. I order them on AliExpress for $10
You take the term manual machining to a whole other level! Obviously a labor of love. Nice work and looking forward to the hardening and final fitment.
I like the support from other channels. @inheritance Maching I totally love your vids. Keep em going!
I just scrolled down to the comments to see what other machining channels showed up in the comments. I was not disappointed. :D
What's understood.... Good observation
Got the blue prints
Link To Part 2 - Heat Treating: th-cam.com/video/TDj-7UXNgFk/w-d-xo.html
For being a so called "screwless vise" I count a total of 4 screws. I need to speak to the person who comes up with the names for these :) In all seriousness I hope you enjoy this build series, it has been in the works for the past 3 months. Tune in next week for some heat treatment. Cheers guys
Would it be possible tto redesign it so it works with a hinge mechanism to clamp the jaws? So you could get rid of some screws? :)
Where did you get the drawing from ?
What if that's the challenge of this drawing? - To Redraw it to not include screws.
Could use rivets! 🤣
3months?? I'm new to machining, like 4months in and while I enjoy it, ive learned it chews through my time! Being a new dad I don't have near the time I used to! Do you mind sharing how many hours you spend machining on week days and weekends? Like 1hr a night? Appreciate you and love your content!
I think it doesn't screw around...
This is a project in our machine/tool and die class at our local tech. Very good in teaching many applications on a single project. Plus the students get to use it at their respective shops.
TCAT?
I come for the McGuyver problem solving, and am never disappointed.
As for what you said at 1:36 about the "...irony of making a vise...". It's like what the late Joe Martin, of Sherline Tools, Said in his book, "...machining craft is making the tool that makes a tool, that makes the tool...". So, you're good. Awesome project. Great channel and content.
I especially enjoy and appreciate your ad-libbing of materials and tooling, as alternate techniques to accomplish your builds, rather then just throwing money at them.
As a postscript, you might discuss what you would do differently, as to material choices, etc., versus, acquiring / purchasing, specific materials.
In my own experience, I’ve found that building specific work holding fixtures etc, it’s effective to use non-hardenable materials, provided, they will see limited use.
Other times, I’ve found myself wishing I’d opted for the more suitable materials, for the amount of use they see.
In several instances, the non-hardenable projects have ended up as essentially, prototypes, with subsequent builds using more suitable materials and incorporating changes and improvements, usually aimed at increased efficiency and versatility.
WOW, necessity is the mother of invention, they say. Nice job making the tilted vise you needed and didn't have.
and then made his next few cuts not using ... 😅
A few years ago, someone wrote an article in Machinist's Workshop magazine where they did some testing on 'hardening mild steel'.
He tried adding salt and various other 'old wives tale' stuff but got no significant changes.
Using ordinary dish soap as 'additive' to water found it actually did make low carbon steel significantly harder.
I forget the Brinnel number increase but it was worthwhile. ( he 'just happened to have a hardness tester in his workshop)
Authors daughter was a materials engineer and said it was due to the surfectant preventing steam bubbles insulating the material
Steam jackets are a well known thing in knifemaking but you can avoid them pretty well by just agitating the part vigorously.
That is a pretty interesting read. I remember watching about the super brine quench method years ago. No surprise that it didn't work :)
@@artisanmakes please search for 'Robb Gunter's Super Quench'
With my limited machining knowledge I can only assume you plan on case hardening the enter vice :P
Looking good 👍👍👍small tip for you if you'd like to extend the life of your cutters .whenever working with hot rolled steel remove the mill scale first. mill scale is very hard and wears cutter edges much faster than the steel under it. you can grind it off or if you've got time you can also soak it over night in pure regular household 6% vinegar to dissolve it. if you're in a real hurry you can also remove it in a couple minutes with muratic acid it's fast but much more dangerous than vinegar. you can also remove it by taking a deep enough cut to get totally under it but may not be easy to do with a small mill and still is a lil hard on cutter edges .just remember after either acid treatment as soon as you dry it you need to oil it because it will flash rust instantly anyway just thought I'd pass that along 👍👍👍
Cheers but the carbide fly cutter just eats through it and I don't see much of a change in the tool life.
Just passing along know info do with it as you wish 👍👍👍
Between Clickspring, Inheritance Machining, and your channel, I have more fun and enjoyment. And I'm not a machinist. But my grandfather was, and the stories of his experience were just fascinating.
Could also consider making/getting a set of commercial hard jaws to still have a serviceable vice
I inherited a vise from an old friend that's almost identical to this one your making. The only difference so far is the welded pin, he captured it with a set screw but his vise sits just a little higher from the base and didn't have to keep that part as low profile. I'm enjoying the video !
15:43 First time I see a boring head used like that. Love it
Great work, love the angle vice, it would work well with an electronic protractor.
You would make a good teacher. Great video as always.
I took it to my friends shop, and he filled all of this area with the liquid lead oh man oh man three times heavier right now. that thing work like a champion now
Made my own as an Apprentice, still one of the best pieces of kit I’ve got 👍
I did mine slightly different, I machined the fixed jaw and the body in situ and Ground it round afterwards. I just machined the moving jaw as a separate detail 👍
nice job. Increase your coolant flow. Do it strong enough that you cause the chips to be carried away immediately. This reduces recutting of chips, allows you to increase speeds and feeds, increases your precision and really improves the finishes you can get. I use a mister set for high air flow and low on the synthetic water-soluble mist solution.
I would if I could, this is really pushing it to the max. if I had an enclosure of some type I would flood heavier.
Noice the shop projects are getting more ambitious. Looking forward to the case hardening part. You'll need a surface grinder soon!
VERY COOL AND HIGH QUALITY!
Remember needing to make one of these in college, part of my toolmakering apprenticeship
Świetny jest ten cały pomysł pozdrawiam twórcę tego filmiku 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice. I like the ghetto tilting vice approach.
This thing is really slick. Good stuff.
Your sine vise is clever.
Good work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Instead of cutting the relief in the base, you could also chamfer the moving jaw.. does the trick also, and is much less work.
Do a Climb milling finishing pass.. that will greatly improve surface quality.
The Clamping part could also be turned, Just machine a boss on one end, that fits in the Base, flip it over, make a similar boss on the other side, and make sure the part in between the bosses fits in the base, then, drill and tap a hole in it, and you're golden.
Very well done look forwards to the next episode
Very cool!
Looking forward for the carborization step... :)
Using router as a mill... Pure savage I love it.
Cheers, definitely seems to work in a pinch
Getting ready to make one this week. Just made a shim punch.
Very nicely done ! Cant wait until you make a rotary table . regards Skip
It looks like your next build needs to be a metal bandsaw 😉
Kyle, that's been overdue for a long while. He must have a right arm like Popeye. Bigger muscles than the left but it's not from opening spinach cans but cutting huge chunks of steel .
Nice job, so far, all the same. Looking forward to solving the hardness problem and the finishing.
Regards from Canada's banana belt.
🤔💩🤞🇺🇲🦃🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦🍌👍
I hope he never gets one just to continually tilt everyone who thinks hand sawing a ten centimetre steel bar once a week is too difficult
I've gone back to the hacksaw for a lot of things now because of this and it's nicer to take care of your cut than just power it through on a machine, the shed is my happy place
Very cool. I had in mind to make a brass hammer, which i have drawn already. But even though yours is simple, it looks extremely clean and efficient. Great job sir !
Oh man cutting that stock with a hack saw... That would take me all day. 😄
1:18
These words are my absolute favorite
Would have been nice to see it working 💪 😮
Well it is part 1 of a 3 part build series. cheers
I have never used lube for hand tapping before. It looked a lot smoother so ill have to try and remember to try that next time.
I purchased a vice from Miami but it was a bit suspect... Yours looks much better.
Creative work holding solutions. Thanks.
Nice one.
Nice 👍 vise
Halfway through but I'm dead impressed fella, love your videos 👍👍
thanks!
Great Work and a nice Video
Beautiful worke...
Awesome, looking real nice bud
Cool tool 👍🏻
Nice work with the editing!
I crack up every time I think “if only I had a lathe and a mill I could just make most of the parts I would need for a lathe or mill.”
Great job!!
A brand new oneUH
Nice vice, quality video edit too.
Love your videos
Thankyou
10:50 setup nice.
You should try doing climb milling, it will give a better finish and tools will last longer.
Personally my preference is to avoid it when manual machining
I have watched this several times, instead of using a slitting saw to releive the clamping slit could you not run a dovetail cutter along . This will give a relief
15:25 nice tool.
Im guessing you are probably already aware of this, but in one of Chris' (Clickspring) videos "antikythera fragment first hardened steel" or something to that effect, he goes over a way to harden mild steel. I replicates his process on a boring bar tool holder i made for the lathe, and it worked very well. I originally started it as he did by taking leather and turning it into coal, but that was rather tedius when charcoal is already available. I used coal from wood and it worked. 6 parts coal, 4 parts salt, 3 parts flour. Add some water to make a paste and put it around your part. Then use clay to envelope all of it, and throw it in a forge or coal fire anything to get it red hot for about a half hour.
Glad to hear it. I remember the video from way back, and I'm glad of worked out for you. Whilst I'm sure it is a good method for hardening, it probably wouldn't suit my part because of the shape. So I went about it slightly differently. Cheers
@@artisanmakes awesome. Cant wait to watch if it is part of the video!
@@kylewellman402 Currently editing it, keep an eye out tomorrow. Cheers
Hey, you can try case hardening the vice.
Yes, that all was filmed last month :)
Somebody buy this man an angle grinder
I would recomend to scrape milled surfaces for better precission
Can you scrape carbon steel effectively? I have done a small amount of cast iron scraping but I have seen a video of someone attempting to scrape a carbon steel of some sort and it didn't seem to scrape all that nicely.
@@artisanmakes this guy has video about carbon steel scraping th-cam.com/video/FgxjiEBhKvM/w-d-xo.html . Also i belive you will surface harden the part ;)
Case hardening or nitriding? I’m curious which one you have access to and how you are going to get the hardened parts to final dimension. Do you have a surface grinder hiding somewhere?
Good job 👍👍👍Thank you for sharing. 🇨🇦
Hi, I like the way you used the boringhead on the mill. Can you show how you put it on the late?
Grz Marc (Belgium)
You should let carbide get hot and not use as much coolant. Also for the relief instead of using a slitting saw you could have set the vise on 45 deg angle plates and used an 1/8 endmill.
I usually don't bother with coolant but on this cut it really seemed to help the carbide. And in sure an endmill would have gotten similar enough results to the saw. Many ways to do the same thing
Those piece look a bit big for case hardening. I'm looking forward to seeing how you pull it off.
I'm immediately thinking "Cast iron' but I guess it's too expensive. Nice build anyway 👍
From what I have experienced with these specific vises, they tend to made made from steel and hardened, rather than from cast. And cast iron is relatively inexpensive, but most of the cast that is sold commercially at my suppliers is in the form of round bar, rather than flat bar.
I am an aspiring machine user, that is I have none but I have seen hundreds of videos.
What I am amazed over is how "easy" it is to create a working "thing" from scratch.
But what I do not get is how the makers can create anything so precise with what to my eye looks like an insane amount of runout and play.
Had to pause this video now to comment this as I am at the +- 5 minute mark watching the very visible drill wobble when drilling and tapping the holes.
Does this not matter as much as I feel it should?
You can have run out and depending on the application you can work around it or it doesn't matter, or it falls within a large tolerance window (which most good designs should have). That run out was just the nature of the machine before it had its bearings replaced and I worked around it just fine.
Is it just the camera, or is there some play in that chuck you use around minute 4-5
Great project. Wonder how you will re-enforce it. Or make it again and call this a dress rehearsal?
Thanks for the heat treatment experiment. That answers my previous episode's question.
Oh, and I also have an old drill press vise, so, I'm going to steal your angle vise idea.
Very nice work. Looking forward to the thing in action. For the long through holes, how come you stopped using flood coolant in the later holes?
I didn't, I just turned it off until I got super deep in the hole. The flood coolant was just spilling all over the table and floor. It's great stuff to have but it is a very messy thing to use
Those endmills in a wobbly jackobs chuck.... no no. I know its just roughing a cbore, but still not safe practice. And you should start taped holes in the mill.
I don't see why not, the cutting forces aren't any different to drilling. The wobble was just down to a bad grind on one of the flutes
Next week episode on case hardening i hope
I suggest that you modify your design. The keyway for the fixed jaw should be near the back edge and the fasteners should be close to the face of the fixed jaw. Clamping force will impose a lateral load on the fixed jaw which in turn will attempt to tip it backwards. The only resistance to this movement are the fasteners holding jaw down. You're going to experience significant deflection because your fasteners are way to close to the pivot point. When you're done, you should test jaw displacement with a sensitive DTI. I'm confident that you won't be happy with the results.
It is a fair suggestion and ill probably change my cad drawings to reflect it. With that said ive already put this vice thorough its paces and it seems to be quite solid and produce some quite repeatable parts, at least on my relatively small mill.
If have a spare moment might run a sim in CATIA and see what deflection I could get. Might be easier since my DTI probably isn't up to snuff for that type of stuff. Cheers
Damn dude i have that same blue vise waiting to be thrown through an Amazon window for my return. Although i did think it would be a cool idea to use a shitty vise and make a nice one, but id have to make a mill with a shitty mill first
This is a great project. Ironically, I just started to attempt to make the same thing a few weeks ago. Since I didn't have anything other than pictures on the internet to try determine sizes and clamping design, I came to a stall very quickly. Where did you find the drawings you are using? Could you send me the link for them please.
I certainly have done things in a different order than you have, hopefully I don't regret that...LOL
Looking forward to the rest of this series of videos.
Absolutely love your channel. Thanks so much for sharing!
Cheers from Canada
I have drawings that might be of help, but for some reason my comments seem to be disappearing. Ping me and I'll email you a link.
OK, I'll try again. What you want is the July 1946 edition of Popular Mechanics, which has been archived and is available in PDF form on the web.
Case hardening is the next process.
11:28 What caused your mistake here? I only ask so that I can be on my guard against doing something similar!
I ran out of travel on the table so I had to move the part in the vise to cut the final bit of the slot but the part didn't seat correctly in the vise and I forgot to tap it in with the hammer.
@@artisanmakes Thanks!
What brand of manual saw are you using?
"Elbow Grease", well known in the industry for over a century and usually operated by apprentices. 😁
That looks like the handle from an ALDI tap and die set.
That mill spindle looks like it has runout 👀
You mean the chuck housing? Ignore that part.
What spindle, both the mill and lathe run below 0.01mm of run out
Can you recommend a reasonable tap and die set?
Fly cutters always scare the shit out of me.
Tilt vice is viceception!
very nice! But why are you using a drill chuck to hold end mills?
There is no issue with using a drill chuck to hold endmills if you are counterboring
Do you have plans or 3D CAD for this? I'd love to build one!
4:10 drilling that hole sounded like a man screaming.......
You can case harden it
Yes, this was all filmed last month
Curious to know why you didn't just chamfer the top surface instead of relieving both corners?
Its to allow for the grinding wheel to grind up in the corner when it comes time to grind it
Do you have a print for this?
What did you use for milling those peices
what quick change tool post assembly and chuck is that?
I made it. Custom QCTP
Great work. Can we sponsor getting this thing precision ground.
Cheers, but its already been ground in. Or as close to ground in as it needs to be.
класс тисочки
For turning the ball. I can't find that insert and holder anywhere. What is it called?
It is a DIY tool that a made a while back. I have a video detailing it, I think it is titled DIY lathe ball turner attachment
@@artisanmakes Thanks for letting me know.
Sawing by hand!!????
Nice work, just wondering, what inserts did you use for your carbide fly cutter?Do you have a link? Cheers
I use dcgt and dcmt inserts. Not really suited for this work and I'll probably be switching back to tcmt and tcgt inserts when they arrive. I order them on AliExpress for $10
Do you have a link for the drawings for this project?