Timestamps 0:00 - Intro 2:19 - Making The Drive Pin For The Leadscrew 2:56 - Machining the End and Cover Plate 5:50 - How To Mount The Motor And Gearbox 7:33 - Making The Clutch Mechanism 13:33 - Making The Selector Forks For The Clutch Sleeve 19:27 - First Test 20:08 - Making A Cover and Adding Limit Switches 23:26 - Final Test
yeah.But i think a batterie powerd bandsaw would be a good fit.He can make a mounting plate to put the band saw in and the mounting plate in to the vise .Or he gets him self 90Degree tool holder and puts a saw blade in and uses the mill.
@bosanaz2010 tbh, I think he does it more to troll people as much as anything. He's happy doing things the way he does :) Buts its the one constant of Artisan Makes content: it'll have a hacksaw cutting a stupidly large piece of metal, and there'll be comments about getting a bandsaw!
@@hk74654 problem with anglegrinder is cutting tool steels will harden them sometimes....i watch him for a long time.I know the Hacksaw is his signiture...but as i toolmaker i know how much pain it takes to cut big stuff with it
I'm an engineer who has worked almost 10 years with gearboxes for trucks with focus on gear manouvering I think you made a really nice design. Good work!
Nice project For the limit switches it would be a good idea to put a diode in parallel on each, so that the motor can only run into the opposite direction when the switch is opened. If you don't do this you have to move the table back by hand each time you run into them (which actually isn't a big problem in your design, but would be if you didn't have a clutch).
I thought about that, but I'm wondering if the limit switches are only in series with the selector. So the limit would only be on the way he's moving leaving the other side free. But I think maybe this diode idea of yours is better
@@MOOBBreezy hmmm, that also makes sense, haven't even thought about that. When I designed something like that I connected both wires for each direction pretty shortly after the direction switch.
I am a hobby woodworker, doing 95% of my work using hand tools. Watching you hacksaw is driving me crazy. No, I don't recommend you buy a bandsaw or power hacksaw (at least, not if you don't have the spare cash). But I STRONGLY recommend firming up the bench, so the work piece is good and stable. This makes a tremendous difference to sawing (and filing, come to that). Some diagonal bracing, or (even stronger) fitting a plywood panel to one or more of the faces is cheap and easy to do.
Very nice build. I would rather not have the knob protruding above the plane of the table. Maybe you never have problems with that but I have sometimes had long objects directly on the table which would then be in conflict with the knob.
Dude, I watch a ton of machining channels, and you demonstrate some wild techniques that I've never seen on any other channel. 14:30 perfect example. It's really really cool
This is cool. An upgrade you could do is have a rail under the table so you can set custom points for the limit switches, and have it auto-reverse when a limit is hit.
The thing that continues to blowy mind is in the blacksmith frame of mind... Need a tool - make a tool. And you always have the foresight to do that and share it with the world! Thank you for what, and more importantly, how you do it. Stay awesome my TH-cam friend!
I appreciate the electrical elegance of the 3 way switch; reverse-off-forward. But if the speed is non zero, it would be really easy to overshoot the centre (off) position and instead of stopping the feed, just change the direction, which might be catastrophic. In this instance, I would prefer 2 switches. One a simple (and bigger?) on-off, and the other a forward/reverse.
Its seems to be a 2 switch design one for direction and a seperate knob for controlling speed. A 3 way switch with good detents is gonna be hard to miss the off position and skip to the other direction and if youre really scared of that happening just bottom the feedrate knob to zero first.
Your a clever bugger. Its great just watching you do these little projects, I almost get as much satisfaction out of the end result as much as you. Keep up the great work mate.
A small tip for sourcing some items for very low prices: go to a local metal scrapyard to find stuff. I acquired 2 of those geared motors for something like $10 and they came out of junked garage door openers. They both work and one even has a clutch to disengage the gears. And yes, they both work, I tested them after I got home. 😀
If that knob is a potentiometer, you could add a "rapid" switch by having a SPDT momentary switch apply a fixed resistance (which corresponds to your rapid speed) to the appropriate pin on the board while disconnecting the pot when pressed. Release the button and the pot is connected back and you continue at your dialed in feed rate. It would be a simple mod, but would add a lot of useability for the operator (i.e. you)
Dear Antone, what an excellent project to add facility to your hobby mill. I always enjoy your presentations and take new thoughts away most times. I have one criticism about today’s project in the placement of the engagement handle for the X-axis power feed. You placed it on top, above the level of the table. This will get in the way of workpieces trying to be loaded on your bed. Can I suggest that you move it to the front or left hand end of the carriage. Cheers.
Thank you for the double entendres, I was really enjoying the play on words. I really admire the good stuff you can turn out with what are basically hobby machines, it inspires me to want to have a go.
If you wire the limit switches in series with the direction switch you can have them lockout only one direction. Then if you hit a limit you can still back the motor off in the opposite direction instead of rendering it entirely powered down.
Many decades ago I made dc servo drives. We could get very good precision using quadrature pulse tachs, 240 to 600 per, an up/down counter, a d/a , feeding into a an op amp with leading phase shift- pole around 3 radians per second, that in turn fed current to the armature. It worked rather well. Reference could be a pulse train or follow a tachometer on another shaft.
I have a drawing for a power feed project for my mill. I have a couple of problems with Power feeds that cut off use of the hand wheel on one side. I have a PM727 mill and it sits on a stand with partially recessed tables hung of the walls on both sides of the mill. This lets me catch the bulk of the chips before they hit the floor and lets me still get mostly on both sides to see my work. The arrangement means that the DRO screen and y axis handle is on the opposite side of your mill. The end result is that 80 percent of my controls need to be run from the left hand side of the machine so I really want to preserve the hand wheel on the power feed side. So I’ll absolutely be using your spline technique for this project.
Yes!......I did enjoy watching this build, I enjoy all of your vidz. I think they are brilliant. Do you think that you will ever build your own Metal cutting bandsaw 🤔
I would also suggest adjustable hard stops to protect the limit switches when operating the feed manually. Just a bolt with a jamb nut next to the switch would work.
This is a good solution. I did the same one year ago at an old lathe for the leadscrew and it works in the same way. But your arrangment looks much better than mine, so I will improve my design.
I love using those motors and gearboxes. Any autoparts store has windshield Wiper motors (what these are) and they're super inexpensive. I've used them on a ton of different projects
I second the diode comment. I've made machines for opening and closing French garage doors, casement windows, and other kinds of machines like that. You'll need to use diodes that can handle the current though Other wise they may pop, which may be great on certain holidays, but only if the pop is good enough.
Now I'm sure 90% of hobby Machines that watch you channel, and others, have similar setups to yours. It's nice to see someone on YT truly show the world what can be done with these setups. Closing. I enjoy watching your builds. But, God dammit, it's time for a Band-Saw so you can cut your stock. Even if it's just one of those hand held units. None the Less. Thanks for the Vid.
At first when seeing the motor, i was already thinking on how to control it with a PWM controller and a DPDT switch. The electronics are super simple and works great, they'll last a long time. Remember to give the spline and brass bushing some oil, so it runs smooth. Can you bottom out the microswitch when the motor set at 100%? I'm thinking that if it takes some time to stop the motor and wormgears rotation, you could damage the microswitch or the gearbox.
It seems to stop quite quickly when it hits the limits. And there is still about 20mm of travel left on the table before it is risking of bottoming out. Cheers
Get yourself 4 cheap V-blocks for the bottom die on your bending jig. They are very hard, and precise; and have 2 bevel widths. Make a simple holder for them that fixes to your flypress table, and it will be easy to set up. Make sure your V-blocks are 'matched' ( mine were .5mm difference in height for my mini hydraulic press, but they work). Your work is excellent and well presented!
Great job!!! I love how all your small builds build off each other. You make one thing just to make another to make something else. It's always an amazing adventure watching you work. Until next week. Good day!
Get the spline shuttle lever (and screw heads) below the bed height. It's amazing how many times you'll find yourself overhanging the work piece or trying to.
If you really want to be fancy, maybe you can hook your DRO up to a micro-controller that controls the power feed? Perfect velocity settings, automatic zeroing/repetition, etc.
Nice work! I made a z axis lift for my mill using similar motor. Diode across switch leads allows it to stop and reverse without manually moving the feed.
I made one with a windscreen wiper motor unit With a 20 or 35 tooth gear on the output shaft. Then I machined the handwheel outside as a gear to match the one on the motor drive. Then a simple lift lever with notches to engage or disengage the unit to the handwheel.Needleess this was mounted to the end of the table. I have been using this for wbout 5 years. Use a multispeed wiper drive to get speeds. I also swap the gear ratios to increase torque or get the speed down for gear cutting. Cost £25 for the drive unit from car breakers. Whip street motors of Ipswich England.
Maybe a bicycle hub engine in direct drive could also be used. Or build your own three phase motor with laminated silicon steel and some permanent magnets. Simple hub motor drives are cheap and then high speed travels are possible. Also consider "overclocking" the winder motor in your design using a 12V motor. A friction clutch by engaging the motor axially could eliminate some complicated parts.
It all comes together. Builds a 3 piece tap set to build a fly press to cut internal splines for a spline shaft and coupler to build an auto-feed and attach it to the mill.
Great job overall .l. Some ideas I have about this is an adaption of the synchronizer rings in manual transmissions for coupling under loads, a way for the limits to be contained in the box, be it by a driven fine threaded jack shaft that drives a stop like in my overhead door, or a electronic counter. I would also like a readout in inches/millimeters per min for ease in repeating a known operation.
Great work. One remark from my point of view, may be end switch worth mount in way, which prevents smushing it? Some kind of slider, which press enough to swith on, not more in any condition?
Awesome job. I’m curious why you didn’t just use the slot in the lead screw. While I understand that the splines offer more engagement points so have less turning of the hand wheel to mesh the two.
Very nicely done. The current capacity of those switches may be exceeded if connected to the motor leads. If that occurs (meaning they burn up) you should be able to interrupt the common on the forward/reverse selector switch with the same type of switch.
Based on the clip he showed with the ammeter showing around 2A draw those sorts of microswitches should be fine as they tend to have 3A specs at the sort of size he has at the bottom end. They will eventually wear out if constantly breaking the 2A load, but its highly probable they would spend most of their time just staying closed as its unlikely he would always want to use the max travel, and the machine will always be attended so unlikely to accidentally overrun etc..
The switch in this PWM controller carries the full motor load. There is no relays or H-bridge, the output Mosfet is wired directly to "negative" and then the dual pole dual throw switch flips the polarities to the motor.
Well done. You could have placed your safety switches in serial with the 3 ways switch to select left/stop/right.. There is also PWM tension controler with a 3 digit display : it gives you a kind of speed reference. It is especially useful when you alternate between full speed and slow speed for milling (for example when doing several passes all in climbing). Your clutch design with the selector is cool. To avoid doing internal keeways, you can buy a 17mm ratchet wrench bit (1/2") to make the clutch cylinder. It is cheap. Congratulations Damien
Clutch setup need be no more then a deep socket with coupler nuts on both sides then cut the back end off a impact style deep socket and ad a ring around it so a shift fork can move it back and forth to engage. I was going to build one of these but the Chinese power feeds are so friggin cheap for a full size bridegport, I'll probably buy one of those.
So cool to see all your projects come together for this project! How do you reverse back out when you hit a limit switch? Is there a manual handle on the other end you can use when you disengage the gearbox?
Nice Project again. Man those hacksaw scenes make my arms ache. I had to cut several 50 x 30 pieces of cold rolled steel. After completing the first one with a hacksaw and being exhausted and useless for the rest of the day, I raced out and bought a horizontal band saw the next morning. BTW does anyone know if the spindle bearings on that seig 2.7L mill need to be lubicated. I cant find anywhere to access them for oiling.
Great job great video if i may give you 2 words of advice i 1 the handle in my opinion should not have been on top but in the front allowing you to have a clear bed top for long pieces and 2 Aliexpress is your friend for anything motor control. I really enjoy your videos they push me to get up off my chair and make things in my shop thank you
Running the switches through a relay would take the electrical load off them. 30 from the supply red, 85 to the supply black, 86 to the switches that are jumped off 30 and 87 to the motor. If it's post-controls it would still work because the coil and relay don't care what way the voltage is going
pretty neat design! But in my opinion in plate you have machined for "driving pin" should be also installed bushing. The old one has barely no contact with this part so there will be signs of wear between plate-pin or reused bushing-pin soon.
Id suggest finding a way to make a readout for the feedrate as that would really allow you to know that you are using the appropriate feeds and speeds for the material being cut. Also a simple momentary push button that would command full speed travel would be handy to have. Basically a rapid travel button. If you want to be fancy put in a rotary knob in line and have different percentage rates of rapid. Not really needed on a manual machine considering you not dealing with 2000ipm rapid travel rates but still nice to have and I mean why not.
Awesome video as always. Big fan of saving money on something that I can build myself. I do foresee an issue with the engagement knob though, it sticks up above the table, if you ever machine something long that hangs over, it may be in the way, just a thought. 👍
I spotted that as well and was going to say something, but I figured that it is so obvious that he will have taken it into consideration. At the very least he can unscrew the knob and make a flat sliding knob in its place.
@@artisanmakes Very true, I like the approach. I'll say I was expecting some sort of lever, but I can appreciate the simplicity of the knob with fewer moving parts. And the internal spline broach, genius!
You could wire the limit switches in series with the direction switch. One limit swith on each direction wire (I'm assuming there are three wires on the switch one being a common). That way if one swicth is hit it disables only that direction of travel and not the entire power. You'd then had to just flip the direction to move away from that switch instead of disengagin the spline and manually moving it.
Timestamps
0:00 - Intro
2:19 - Making The Drive Pin For The Leadscrew
2:56 - Machining the End and Cover Plate
5:50 - How To Mount The Motor And Gearbox
7:33 - Making The Clutch Mechanism
13:33 - Making The Selector Forks For The Clutch Sleeve
19:27 - First Test
20:08 - Making A Cover and Adding Limit Switches
23:26 - Final Test
Hello!
You know you're early to watch a video when there are 0 comments about his use of a hacksaw or any urging him to buy a bandsaw 😂😂😂
yeah.But i think a batterie powerd bandsaw would be a good fit.He can make a mounting plate to put the band saw in and the mounting plate in to the vise .Or he gets him self 90Degree tool holder and puts a saw blade in and uses the mill.
@bosanaz2010 tbh, I think he does it more to troll people as much as anything. He's happy doing things the way he does :)
Buts its the one constant of Artisan Makes content: it'll have a hacksaw cutting a stupidly large piece of metal, and there'll be comments about getting a bandsaw!
Or just use an angle grinder, he probably has one lying around.
Edit from later on in the video: he actually has an angle grinder!
@@hk74654 problem with anglegrinder is cutting tool steels will harden them sometimes....i watch him for a long time.I know the Hacksaw is his signiture...but as i toolmaker i know how much pain it takes to cut big stuff with it
Rather, he should build one
I love how your little projects build on each other. Keep up the great work.
I'm pretty sure that is the point of hobby machining. Build a tool that builds a tool that builds a tool.
He is slowly building his own equipment that he needs for the next project. I dig it.
I like that there is a narrative to the video's and the work involved too.
Hello!
I'm an engineer who has worked almost 10 years with gearboxes for trucks with focus on gear manouvering I think you made a really nice design. Good work!
Thankyou that's very kind.
Good work!
Hello!
Nice project
For the limit switches it would be a good idea to put a diode in parallel on each, so that the motor can only run into the opposite direction when the switch is opened. If you don't do this you have to move the table back by hand each time you run into them (which actually isn't a big problem in your design, but would be if you didn't have a clutch).
I thought about that, but I'm wondering if the limit switches are only in series with the selector. So the limit would only be on the way he's moving leaving the other side free. But I think maybe this diode idea of yours is better
Just read the comments and a lot of people had the same idea as mine. Yours is definitely unique though
@@MOOBBreezy hmmm, that also makes sense, haven't even thought about that. When I designed something like that I connected both wires for each direction pretty shortly after the direction switch.
I am a hobby woodworker, doing 95% of my work using hand tools. Watching you hacksaw is driving me crazy. No, I don't recommend you buy a bandsaw or power hacksaw (at least, not if you don't have the spare cash).
But I STRONGLY recommend firming up the bench, so the work piece is good and stable. This makes a tremendous difference to sawing (and filing, come to that).
Some diagonal bracing, or (even stronger) fitting a plywood panel to one or more of the faces is cheap and easy to do.
I love the arcade racing vibe of that control arm. The click and the obvious tactile feedback.
Very nice build. I would rather not have the knob protruding above the plane of the table. Maybe you never have problems with that but I have sometimes had long objects directly on the table which would then be in conflict with the knob.
I also agree that hobby machining is all about making stuff and having fun, and not necessarily 'always' being cheaper.
Dude, I watch a ton of machining channels, and you demonstrate some wild techniques that I've never seen on any other channel. 14:30 perfect example. It's really really cool
Necessity is the mother of invention
This is cool. An upgrade you could do is have a rail under the table so you can set custom points for the limit switches, and have it auto-reverse when a limit is hit.
Hello!
Literally let out an "oofftt" of satisfaction watching the keyed bore going onto the key after broaching.
The thing that continues to blowy mind is in the blacksmith frame of mind...
Need a tool - make a tool.
And you always have the foresight to do that and share it with the world!
Thank you for what, and more importantly, how you do it.
Stay awesome my TH-cam friend!
Hello!
I appreciate the electrical elegance of the 3 way switch; reverse-off-forward. But if the speed is non zero, it would be really easy to overshoot the centre (off) position and instead of stopping the feed, just change the direction, which might be catastrophic.
In this instance, I would prefer 2 switches. One a simple (and bigger?) on-off, and the other a forward/reverse.
Its seems to be a 2 switch design one for direction and a seperate knob for controlling speed. A 3 way switch with good detents is gonna be hard to miss the off position and skip to the other direction and if youre really scared of that happening just bottom the feedrate knob to zero first.
@@Schmetty87 Yeah - under well considered, non panic scenarios it's fine.
I was thinking more of the "it's going to crash in 1/2 a second" scenario.
Your a clever bugger. Its great just watching you do these little projects, I almost get as much satisfaction out of the end result as much as you. Keep up the great work mate.
A small tip for sourcing some items for very low prices: go to a local metal scrapyard to find stuff. I acquired 2 of those geared motors for something like $10 and they came out of junked garage door openers. They both work and one even has a clutch to disengage the gears. And yes, they both work, I tested them after I got home. 😀
Hello!
Automobile window or seat gearmotors also excellent for this kind of application !
Your skills have been growing exponentially. It's cool to watch.
If that knob is a potentiometer, you could add a "rapid" switch by having a SPDT momentary switch apply a fixed resistance (which corresponds to your rapid speed) to the appropriate pin on the board while disconnecting the pot when pressed. Release the button and the pot is connected back and you continue at your dialed in feed rate. It would be a simple mod, but would add a lot of useability for the operator (i.e. you)
Hello!
I personally had the clutch lever mounted on the side. It gets in the way when working with long overhanging workpieces
Dear Antone, what an excellent project to add facility to your hobby mill. I always enjoy your presentations and take new thoughts away most times.
I have one criticism about today’s project in the placement of the engagement handle for the X-axis power feed. You placed it on top, above the level of the table. This will get in the way of workpieces trying to be loaded on your bed. Can I suggest that you move it to the front or left hand end of the carriage. Cheers.
Nice project.. had to comment on you using up the elbow grease with the hacksaw. 😅
Thank you for the double entendres, I was really enjoying the play on words.
I really admire the good stuff you can turn out with what are basically hobby machines, it inspires me to want to have a go.
If you wire the limit switches in series with the direction switch you can have them lockout only one direction. Then if you hit a limit you can still back the motor off in the opposite direction instead of rendering it entirely powered down.
Hello!
Amazing work mate!! Love to see you improving your tools and your videos, funny and smart af. Cheers
It is best practice to mount limit switches in a way that the machine cannot crash them.
Great solution! The prices on the Sieg powerfeeds are indeed ridiculous, it's almost worth making one even when you factor in work hours
Thanks Phil. Thoroughly enjoyed your build too on this, I remember watching it when it first cane out.
Many decades ago I made dc servo drives. We could get very good precision using quadrature pulse tachs, 240 to 600 per, an up/down counter, a d/a , feeding into a an op amp with leading phase shift- pole around 3 radians per second, that in turn fed current to the armature. It worked rather well.
Reference could be a pulse train or follow a tachometer on another shaft.
I have a drawing for a power feed project for my mill. I have a couple of problems with Power feeds that cut off use of the hand wheel on one side. I have a PM727 mill and it sits on a stand with partially recessed tables hung of the walls on both sides of the mill. This lets me catch the bulk of the chips before they hit the floor and lets me still get mostly on both sides to see my work. The arrangement means that the DRO screen and y axis handle is on the opposite side of your mill. The end result is that 80 percent of my controls need to be run from the left hand side of the machine so I really want to preserve the hand wheel on the power feed side. So I’ll absolutely be using your spline technique for this project.
Wish i could like the video twice. Awesome man. I also cant wait to see some projects combining machining and 3d printing!
Yes!......I did enjoy watching this build, I enjoy all of your vidz. I think they are brilliant.
Do you think that you will ever build your own Metal cutting bandsaw 🤔
Once again your trouble-shooting skills shine through! Awesome results as well.
You really could get a job in tool room somewhere. Nice stuff your doing here and just keep challenging your self we all love the projects.
Cheers. Best to keep all this stuff as a hobby though.
It looks amazing except I would replace the two cap heads on top that hold on the cover plate with button heads. Cap heads are so tall.
I have seen people use "Allen Drives" & matching "Long Series" Sockets, as Drives.
Simple design, well engineered ,
Nice job 👏👏
I would also suggest adjustable hard stops to protect the limit switches when operating the feed manually. Just a bolt with a jamb nut next to the switch would work.
This is a good solution. I did the same one year ago at an old lathe for the leadscrew and it works in the same way. But your arrangment looks much better than mine, so I will improve my design.
I love that bolt action rifle click for the spline clutch,
watching with a tea sitting at my lathe :D wondering what i can make for no reason
I love using those motors and gearboxes. Any autoparts store has windshield Wiper motors (what these are) and they're super inexpensive. I've used them on a ton of different projects
I second the diode comment. I've made machines for opening and closing French garage doors, casement windows, and other kinds of machines like that. You'll need to use diodes that can handle the current though
Other wise they may pop, which may be great on certain holidays, but only if the pop is good enough.
Now I'm sure 90% of hobby Machines that watch you channel, and others, have similar setups to yours.
It's nice to see someone on YT truly show the world what can be done with these setups.
Closing. I enjoy watching your builds. But, God dammit, it's time for a Band-Saw so you can cut your stock. Even if it's just one of those hand held units.
None the Less. Thanks for the Vid.
At first when seeing the motor, i was already thinking on how to control it with a PWM controller and a DPDT switch. The electronics are super simple and works great, they'll last a long time.
Remember to give the spline and brass bushing some oil, so it runs smooth.
Can you bottom out the microswitch when the motor set at 100%? I'm thinking that if it takes some time to stop the motor and wormgears rotation, you could damage the microswitch or the gearbox.
It seems to stop quite quickly when it hits the limits. And there is still about 20mm of travel left on the table before it is risking of bottoming out. Cheers
Some good machining here. The splines were very interesting. I am watching this one again.
Gday, the spline setup works well and with the detents is a positive engagement, top job mate, cheers
This was a great project! You're work is improving with every video
Hello!
I've seen alot of different ideas for power feeds. This is definitely one of the better ones. Nice work and some really precise machining.
Hello!
Very funny intro, made me chuckle. Love the videos and the build up to each project from the last.. awesome stuff mate!
Get yourself 4 cheap V-blocks for the bottom die on your bending jig. They are very hard, and precise; and have 2 bevel widths. Make a simple holder for them that fixes to your flypress table, and it will be easy to set up. Make sure your V-blocks are 'matched' ( mine were .5mm difference in height for my mini hydraulic press, but they work). Your work is excellent and well presented!
Great job!!! I love how all your small builds build off each other. You make one thing just to make another to make something else. It's always an amazing adventure watching you work. Until next week. Good day!
Fuse, or current limit for the DC motor? Maybe the DC supply has been selected to make that unnecessary?
Your way ahead of the game. Keep it up.
Get the spline shuttle lever (and screw heads) below the bed height. It's amazing how many times you'll find yourself overhanging the work piece or trying to.
Me personally I haven't had a part overhang the back in the almost 3 years I've had this mill. Cheers
If you really want to be fancy, maybe you can hook your DRO up to a micro-controller that controls the power feed? Perfect velocity settings, automatic zeroing/repetition, etc.
Nice job one suggestion wire a push button override on the spped control for rappid movement of the table
Nice job. Planning to make similar power feed for my Benchmaster mill. All the bits and pieces are in hand.
Cheers, best of luck
Best one yet. Super fresh, super nice...
Nice work! I made a z axis lift for my mill using similar motor. Diode across
switch leads allows it to stop and reverse without manually moving the feed.
I made one with a windscreen wiper motor unit With a 20 or 35 tooth gear on the output shaft. Then I machined the handwheel outside as a gear to match the one on the motor drive. Then a simple lift lever with notches to engage or disengage the unit to the handwheel.Needleess this was mounted to the end of the table. I have been using this for wbout 5 years. Use a multispeed wiper drive to get speeds. I also swap the gear ratios to increase torque or get the speed down for gear cutting. Cost £25 for the drive unit from car breakers. Whip street motors of Ipswich England.
Congratulation, another great project and another relaxing video. You make me feel that complicated jobs are so easy to do :)❤
Cheers, any job can be tacked with enough time and cups of tea :)
Well done!
I'd probably go for a fancier and nicer to use toggle switch, though
love your videos! also the craziest part of this entire channel to me is that you hand cut your stock. kudos!
For budget FDM 3D printer i can recomend the Sovol sv06. Cheap and good. Got everything you need, except enclosure for high temp materials.
Not hugely familiar with the 3d printer market. I'll have to look up some videos about that. Cheers
Maybe a bicycle hub engine in direct drive could also be used. Or build your own three phase motor with laminated silicon steel and some permanent magnets.
Simple hub motor drives are cheap and then high speed travels are possible.
Also consider "overclocking" the winder motor in your design using a 12V motor.
A friction clutch by engaging the motor axially could eliminate some complicated parts.
You should mark the plate and knob with the feed speeds, once you figure out how fast it goes
i'm using sieg SX3 and i made a power feed few years ago, with 57 stepper motor(nema 23) and a driver and hold by a 3d print body
Very impressed, always look forward to seeing your videos, your making good use of the fly press! From Coventry in UK 🇬🇧.
You have built a very clean unit there. I would like to see more detail on the electrical design, and build. I am a bit challenged in that area.
It all comes together. Builds a 3 piece tap set to build a fly press to cut internal splines for a spline shaft and coupler to build an auto-feed and attach it to the mill.
Yeah effectively. Took a whole year to do all. Cheers
Awesome job.... looks clean and works great... what more could you ask for!!
Still waiting for the link for the 4-jaw chuck you could use.
Hello!
All the tools and projects made to get to this one 😍
Great job overall .l.
Some ideas I have about this is an adaption of the synchronizer rings in manual transmissions for coupling under loads, a way for the limits to be contained in the box, be it by a driven fine threaded jack shaft that drives a stop like in my overhead door, or a electronic counter. I would also like a readout in inches/millimeters per min for ease in repeating a known operation.
Great work. One remark from my point of view, may be end switch worth mount in way, which prevents smushing it? Some kind of slider, which press enough to swith on, not more in any condition?
Great job and clever design. Thank you for sharing your great work, well done.
Antone should be elated to get this project done!!! Nice design, implementation and thought process overall all the way through
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I did indeed enjoy your video and was quite impressed with your machining skills. Bill from Colorado
ive used windscreen wiper motors sourced from the scrap yard. 12v power supply is easier to come by than 24v
Awesome job. I’m curious why you didn’t just use the slot in the lead screw. While I understand that the splines offer more engagement points so have less turning of the hand wheel to mesh the two.
Hello!
Very nicely done. The current capacity of those switches may be exceeded if connected to the motor leads. If that occurs (meaning they burn up) you should be able to interrupt the common on the forward/reverse selector switch with the same type of switch.
Based on the clip he showed with the ammeter showing around 2A draw those sorts of microswitches should be fine as they tend to have 3A specs at the sort of size he has at the bottom end.
They will eventually wear out if constantly breaking the 2A load, but its highly probable they would spend most of their time just staying closed as its unlikely he would always want to use the max travel, and the machine will always be attended so unlikely to accidentally overrun etc..
The switch in this PWM controller carries the full motor load. There is no relays or H-bridge, the output Mosfet is wired directly to "negative" and then the dual pole dual throw switch flips the polarities to the motor.
I see that now, switch is definitely DPDT. Artisan Makes do not take my advice. Sorry all 😅
Well done. You could have placed your safety switches in serial with the 3 ways switch to select left/stop/right..
There is also PWM tension controler with a 3 digit display : it gives you a kind of speed reference. It is especially useful when you alternate between full speed and slow speed for milling (for example when doing several passes all in climbing).
Your clutch design with the selector is cool.
To avoid doing internal keeways, you can buy a 17mm ratchet wrench bit (1/2") to make the clutch cylinder. It is cheap.
Congratulations
Damien
17mm is substantially larger than 1/2in. 1/2in is 12.7mm so the closest analogue would be the 13mm wrench.
Source: 1in=25.4mm or, 2.54cm.
I love this hack, especially since I haven’t made a good broaching tool for my shop.
Hello!
@ChristopherGoggans pretty sure he means 1/2 inch for the drive size of the socket
Clutch setup need be no more then a deep socket with coupler nuts on both sides then cut the back end off a impact style deep socket and ad a ring around it so a shift fork can move it back and forth to engage. I was going to build one of these but the Chinese power feeds are so friggin cheap for a full size bridegport, I'll probably buy one of those.
Excellent video. It's great to see the press in action.
Life without an X-axis power feed would suck. I even got a power feed for my Z-axis, that is wonderful and my shoulder loves it.
Very nice I couldn't help thinking of using a dewalt 20 volt battery to drive the unit. I realize it's a bit uncongenial but it would look cool.
So cool to see all your projects come together for this project!
How do you reverse back out when you hit a limit switch? Is there a manual handle on the other end you can use when you disengage the gearbox?
yes 😄
I still have the handwheel on it so I can do all my manual machining
Hacksaw gang is here and we appreciate your videos! ❤
The cost of ready made vs DIY makes this build a no brainer and if you ever decide to go CNC you could adapt the mounting plate to steppers.
Nice Project again. Man those hacksaw scenes make my arms ache. I had to cut several 50 x 30 pieces of cold rolled steel. After completing the first one with a hacksaw and being exhausted and useless for the rest of the day, I raced out and bought a horizontal band saw the next morning. BTW does anyone know if the spindle bearings on that seig 2.7L mill need to be lubicated. I cant find anywhere to access them for oiling.
That's an awesome design and great skills in producing the setup. 👍👍👍
Hello!
That's pretty cool. You'll be building whole transmissions before long.
Great job great video if i may give you 2 words of advice i 1 the handle in my opinion should not have been on top but in the front allowing you to have a clear bed top for long pieces and 2 Aliexpress is your friend for anything motor control.
I really enjoy your videos they push me to get up off my chair and make things in my shop thank you
Running the switches through a relay would take the electrical load off them. 30 from the supply red, 85 to the supply black, 86 to the switches that are jumped off 30 and 87 to the motor. If it's post-controls it would still work because the coil and relay don't care what way the voltage is going
Great work mate!
Pretty innovative solution. I have in mind a similar project for a quill feed on a Rong Fu 45 clone.
Some good solutions here 👏👏
Robert
pretty neat design!
But in my opinion in plate you have machined for "driving pin" should be also installed bushing. The old one has barely no contact with this part so there will be signs of wear between plate-pin or reused bushing-pin soon.
Consider redundant limit switches and indicators to verify function.
Pretty cool. The cludge handle position is a bit odd though. Could potentially be in the way I guess.
Super nice work mate. Heaps better than the bargain power feed I have on my mill.
Id suggest finding a way to make a readout for the feedrate as that would really allow you to know that you are using the appropriate feeds and speeds for the material being cut. Also a simple momentary push button that would command full speed travel would be handy to have. Basically a rapid travel button. If you want to be fancy put in a rotary knob in line and have different percentage rates of rapid. Not really needed on a manual machine considering you not dealing with 2000ipm rapid travel rates but still nice to have and I mean why not.
Awesome video as always. Big fan of saving money on something that I can build myself. I do foresee an issue with the engagement knob though, it sticks up above the table, if you ever machine something long that hangs over, it may be in the way, just a thought. 👍
I spotted that as well and was going to say something, but I figured that it is so obvious that he will have taken it into consideration.
At the very least he can unscrew the knob and make a flat sliding knob in its place.
Yeah ive never had that much overhang on a part, but if the situation ever arises I can take the handle off. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Very true, I like the approach. I'll say I was expecting some sort of lever, but I can appreciate the simplicity of the knob with fewer moving parts. And the internal spline broach, genius!
Yeah that was on an original sketch, some sort of eccentric cam but I ultimately went with this design. Cheers
You could wire the limit switches in series with the direction switch. One limit swith on each direction wire (I'm assuming there are three wires on the switch one being a common). That way if one swicth is hit it disables only that direction of travel and not the entire power. You'd then had to just flip the direction to move away from that switch instead of disengagin the spline and manually moving it.
excellent stuff, love to see your progress/work. Take care, from Canada!