Good job with the video... and thanks for not editing out the (funny) mistakes! We're all human and I just laugh at the "Oops!" that happens and that makes the video "real", and remember that I've done them myself. The box that the filter comes in usually has the tightening instructions of "Tighten hand tight until you feel the gasket make contact and then 3/4 to 1 turn more. At my first oil change, I swapped the factory drain plug for a magnetic drain plug. I just like the idea of having a second feature on the bike that is removing foreign particles from the oil - even if it is only the iron based ones. And it gives a quick visual indication at each oil change if anything serious has gone on internally since your observation of it at the last oil change. Thanks for the tip on where to dispose of the used oil and filter - no one seems to mention that!
Absolutely, the CB is even easier than most cars because of how exposed everything is but the principle applies to pretty much anything with a petrol engine!
The Manufacturer recoomends JASO 10W-30 or 10W40. For hot climates such as California 15W40 makes sense too. But you are using 5W-40, that makes very little sense for a motorcycle engine. I know that Rotella does cover JASOMA/MA2 standards, but your oil weight is wrong. I don't get why people are not following manufacturers recommendations for oils. Usually it's not the engine, but the transmission having problems with lower weight oils.
Believe it or not, many owners have success with different oil weights depending on their area and their bikes. One thing you may not know is California actually has a range of climates and although sometimes the afternoon can be very warm, the mornings can be below freezing in places and a lower viscosity oil functions better in cold temperatures especially on startup. I put about 70,000 miles on two different CB1100s and tried many different oils over my ownership and found that higher viscosity motor oils induced cam chain rattle and rough shifting when starting the bike which typically resolved after the engine came to temperature. Many owners, like me, found that a lower viscosity oil resolved that issue with no detrimental effects on the performance or wear and tear on the bike. Furthermore, the difference in oil weight between 5W-40 and 10W-30, the recommended weight in the manual, is de minimis. In fact 5W-40 is what the Honda dealership used when I brought my bike in to replace the IACV. If you have any doubts about using 5W-40 oils, you're free to make your own decisions!
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Good job with the video... and thanks for not editing out the (funny) mistakes! We're all human and I just laugh at the "Oops!" that happens and that makes the video "real", and remember that I've done them myself.
The box that the filter comes in usually has the tightening instructions of "Tighten hand tight until you feel the gasket make contact and then 3/4 to 1 turn more.
At my first oil change, I swapped the factory drain plug for a magnetic drain plug. I just like the idea of having a second feature on the bike that is removing foreign particles from the oil - even if it is only the iron based ones. And it gives a quick visual indication at each oil change if anything serious has gone on internally since your observation of it at the last oil change.
Thanks for the tip on where to dispose of the used oil and filter - no one seems to mention that!
good to see a young guy manning up and doing some simple hand work. we all started somwhere. good on you. OG in training. Nice bike
Good video.
i also believe and having experience car engine oil is just same as motorcycle oil. Did not get any problem for 12 years
Absolutely, the CB is even easier than most cars because of how exposed everything is but the principle applies to pretty much anything with a petrol engine!
what kind of shoes are you wearing
Hi Isaiah, I believe they're Red Wings Beckman boots!
@@iamheero Thank you! cool shoes
@@isaiahcase2815 Thanks!
The Manufacturer recoomends JASO 10W-30 or 10W40. For hot climates such as California 15W40 makes sense too. But you are using 5W-40, that makes very little sense for a motorcycle engine. I know that Rotella does cover JASOMA/MA2 standards, but your oil weight is wrong. I don't get why people are not following manufacturers recommendations for oils. Usually it's not the engine, but the transmission having problems with lower weight oils.
Believe it or not, many owners have success with different oil weights depending on their area and their bikes. One thing you may not know is California actually has a range of climates and although sometimes the afternoon can be very warm, the mornings can be below freezing in places and a lower viscosity oil functions better in cold temperatures especially on startup. I put about 70,000 miles on two different CB1100s and tried many different oils over my ownership and found that higher viscosity motor oils induced cam chain rattle and rough shifting when starting the bike which typically resolved after the engine came to temperature. Many owners, like me, found that a lower viscosity oil resolved that issue with no detrimental effects on the performance or wear and tear on the bike. Furthermore, the difference in oil weight between 5W-40 and 10W-30, the recommended weight in the manual, is de minimis. In fact 5W-40 is what the Honda dealership used when I brought my bike in to replace the IACV. If you have any doubts about using 5W-40 oils, you're free to make your own decisions!