My mother's home had solid pine flooring like this (not tongue and groove) in a home she bought. It was installed in all rooms except for the bathroom. The flooring was easily dented and had a weathered look, but it was an interesting character look. It held up better than I would have expected, being pine, but I image a lot of that is attributed to the floor finish that was applied to help with hardening it. She was there 6 years with no need to refinish and without major issues from it.
Pine is an unusual choice for a floor especially for tongue and groove. Nice to hear that the floor lasted a long time in your mom's house. This floor had polyurethane applied and should be good for as little traffic as will be on it.
Not really. You see a lot of older homes in the Deep South with pine floors. Not a lot of native hardwood around here. My house built in 1890's is T and G pine , only one layer. No subfloor!
Liquid nail and finsh nails through pine into plywood without any seperation. Now ive seen it all. Love to see that 1 year fron now. And the amount of squeaks you have too
They should have explained this to you. You lay the last board upside down 1/4" from the wall and mark each end where the cut should be based on where it meets up with the tounge. Once you cut it, you will get a perfect fit.
@sethcraftworkshop I dpnt mind it get scuffs and dents in it I mean that in my opinion adds to the rustic look!. I'm wanting to stain it in Red mahogany then clear coat it using polyurethane....any tips? How many times should I go back over it with the polyurethane and is that OK to use?
Other than looking kinda cool, I don't know why you'd want a soft pine floor. I'd prefer a concrete floor in an outbuilding like that. That pine is not going to take much of a beating.
I'm not sure why you are not using either a manual or a pnuematic nail gun for this. Seems like a lot of work drilling those holes and hammering by hand. Clearly you don't make a living at this.
@@sethcraftworkshop utube censors all bad language so u dont see it anymore.... even when it aint cos utube is run by the woke society. well if u dont unblock me i wont bother commenting with my knowledge and experience like i have done on ur channel for many years
@@Mel-tw6qv the boards he used are for walls and ceilings. They have a beveled edge which makes a big V groove. This collects dirt and debris and is very uncomfortable on the feet. Wood floor needs to be STAPLED every 10” with a hardwood stapler, regardless of adhesive. Correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t believe that the clear coat he used is engineered for flooring/wear surface. That weak finish will wear down very quickly and the soft and porous pine will soak in the dirt and be discoloured. Bad job from start to finish. Always follow code and manufacturers directions and you won’t go wrong.
My mother's home had solid pine flooring like this (not tongue and groove) in a home she bought. It was installed in all rooms except for the bathroom. The flooring was easily dented and had a weathered look, but it was an interesting character look. It held up better than I would have expected, being pine, but I image a lot of that is attributed to the floor finish that was applied to help with hardening it. She was there 6 years with no need to refinish and without major issues from it.
Pine is an unusual choice for a floor especially for tongue and groove. Nice to hear that the floor lasted a long time in your mom's house. This floor had polyurethane applied and should be good for as little traffic as will be on it.
Not really. You see a lot of older homes in the Deep South with pine floors. Not a lot of native hardwood around here. My house built in 1890's is T and G pine , only one layer. No subfloor!
Liquid nail and finsh nails through pine into plywood without any seperation. Now ive seen it all. Love to see that 1 year fron now. And the amount of squeaks you have too
Not to mention they used car siding on a floor. Unbelievable. Imagine the amount of crude that will build up in the V gaps.
Thank you! Did you use Yellow Pine? That particular poly is not recommended on floors from what I remember..........
It was pine. Seems to work well for a small office space.
How thick is the floor
What grade wood did you buy?
Hi, how to you cut the last plank? Sounds like silly question, but I'm not a carpenter so would probably need to take it to a carpenters workshop..
They should have explained this to you. You lay the last board upside down 1/4" from the wall and mark each end where the cut should be based on where it meets up with the tounge. Once you cut it, you will get a perfect fit.
Hows the floor been holding up i thought about doing this for my tiny home.
Last time I checked with my friend it was doing well. some scuff marks because its a soft wood but not bad.
@sethcraftworkshop I dpnt mind it get scuffs and dents in it I mean that in my opinion adds to the rustic look!. I'm wanting to stain it in Red mahogany then clear coat it using polyurethane....any tips? How many times should I go back over it with the polyurethane and is that OK to use?
You didn't fill in the grooves? That will get so dirty..
Other than looking kinda cool, I don't know why you'd want a soft pine floor. I'd prefer a concrete floor in an outbuilding like that. That pine is not going to take much of a beating.
The look was very important to the homeowner. For a work from home office I think it will do ok. As an actual workshop it would get damaged real fast.
I'm not sure why you are not using either a manual or a pnuematic nail gun for this. Seems like a lot of work drilling those holes and hammering by hand. Clearly you don't make a living at this.
OI Seth, better unblock me from ur main channels and "READ MY CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM" on ur electric inverter install vid.
Hello. You had been blocked on the land to house for inappropriate language.
@@sethcraftworkshop utube censors all bad language so u dont see it anymore.... even when it aint cos utube is run by the woke society. well if u dont unblock me i wont bother commenting with my knowledge and experience like i have done on ur channel for many years
this video should be titled "how to waste lumber and ruin your floor like an idiot"
Why? A lot of people use pine for floors.
@@Mel-tw6qv the boards he used are for walls and ceilings. They have a beveled edge which makes a big V groove. This collects dirt and debris and is very uncomfortable on the feet. Wood floor needs to be STAPLED every 10” with a hardwood stapler, regardless of adhesive. Correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t believe that the clear coat he used is engineered for flooring/wear surface. That weak finish will wear down very quickly and the soft and porous pine will soak in the dirt and be discoloured. Bad job from start to finish. Always follow code and manufacturers directions and you won’t go wrong.