Vertical loops in the refrigerant lines will trap compressor oil. Oil will not return to the compressor. Compressor will fail for lack of lubrication. Replaced 3 DIY installs so far with less than a season of operation. Use shorter line sets.
This video helped a great deal in my installation of one of these units this past weekend. In all of the videos I've seen of the installs, the hole saw attachment, a nice cardboard template and the hex key were included and the wires on head unit to condenser power line were numbered/labeled. None of that was the case for me. The manual included in the boxes is... adequate. Make sure that you can easily refer to this video. I already owned the appropriate hole saw but since I was at my best friend's house, 117 miles from mine, I now own two 2.5" hole saws. There was nothing in the manual specifying how the unlabeled wires on the power cord should be hooked up in the head unit or condenser. I am eternally grateful to Seth that he showed and narrated "Red wire goes to #2..." Good luck, be careful.
I am in the process installing my 36k as we speak. On page 27 of my manual it absolutely states that the excess coils of lineset must be kept horizontal
Thank you... I'm comfortable with everything...I made a call to my local certified master electrician for the wiring part...which wasn't too expensive. So this will be done and then my shed will have HVAC...😊😊😊
I've been contemplating installing a mini split, replacing a swamp cooler setup that I have on an upper floor on my home. I have an HVAC system set up in my home, and I also have a zoned gas hot water boiler set up as well and a pellet stove on three levels. But my home doesn't have an open concept, so heating and cooling is usually irregular and not consistent. And it's wasteful heating and cooling areas that are not always occupied. Having minispits to control the environment to a particular area seems more cost effective than running the whole house HVAC or the boiler system. I'm looking to install an 18k btu dual split unit for my upstairs family room and downstairs weight room. I've watched a few installation videos on various sizes and brands of DIY minisplits. I've gotten a lot of tips and ideas from watching them. I enjoyed your video and your tutorial. Nice job..😎
I am no new comer to Mr. Cool DIY, as I own 3. Here are some recommendations. It's good to raise the outdoor unit, even just an inch or two, to avoid junk piling up under and around the unit. They sell cheap set of rubber feet meant for just this. Of course, you can spend more and get a nice raised perch with a little roof, too. You can do this post-installation, because it's just an inch or so movement. Foam covering any lineset left out to the elements will degrade. At minimum, wrap them all with vinyl tape or something. It'd been better to pre-plan and put them in a protected space, but it's too late now. Yes, they say you can disconnect and reconnect once without losing too much refrigerant or causing new issues, but I wouldn't do that.
You definitely can disconnect and reconnect. You just have to shut the valves on the condenser. I didn't hear any escape (had to replace a condenser under warranty). The instructions were literally to disconnect and reconnect.
Thank you for this video. I'm an electrician so I do have to say it was like nails on a chalkboard to see you put Romex in that conduit. You need to use THHN wire! But other than that it looks good! Thanks for making this video!
Came here to say the same thing... had a hard time watching the rest after that. Technically in an outdoor setting it should be THWN but I'm pretty sure all THHN is also THWN.
Minisplit install looks straight forward, I'd just be concerned about rain infiltration where the lines come through the wall. You'll have give us a follow up about how the lines were made tidy and sealed up for the weather. Thanks for sharing this.
@@fpafdc70 From my research the pre-charged systems cost extra for the ease of install. The downside is the all the extra line that cannot be cut out of the install as this will "release the charge". I have seen other videos that suggest the coils should be coiled horizontal and not left vertical. I think the homeowner was going to clean up the install so maybe they will find a way to coil this correctly.
A couple of things, its a code violation to put romex in conduit, its compliant if you strip the outer plastic off and run individual wires only. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amp, 10 gauge for 30 amp. Mccool recommandes the excessive freon lines are placed horizontal to prevent compressor oil form collecting in the low spots. I have one of these it uses 800 to 1200 watts or 7 to10 amps of power. they are great units not needing a HVAC guy
He almost got it right. That was a very confident response, but you cannot strip Romex and run it through conduit. Romax is in fact permitted to be ran inside of conduit as long as it isn’t in a wet or damp location.
I saw another video of someone who built something that looked like a wood pallet (only prettier) and put it behind the unit, and put the line set/hoses/wires behind the pallet. Looked quite nice.
Just wanted to say Thanks for posting this video - used it to complete my own install, working like a charm. (Used plastic gutter as the outside molding, worked perfectly)
Good video but the connectors used for the wiring are for indoor use only! I believe you can shorten the electrical lines that come with the unit so you do not have all that excess wiring bunched up around the unit.
Dunning Kruger Effect video advice. The compressor often fails with a long vertical coil restricting oil getting to the compressor. Any gas pipe coil should be laid horizontal, but it's best to be cut short to match correct length and professionally flanged copper pipe ends and drench fittings with a spray bottle detergent mix for a better leak test for bubbles.
Yes, in a perfect world line sets would be custom cut to fit. But this is an entirely different product line, a DIY series. The lines are fixed lengths and the excess must be dealt with.
Awesome video. Only thing I'll change it I end up doing a diy is I'll have to hang mine off the side of my house. I live in Canada so it'd be buried in the winter if I don't
@@sethcraftworkshopit also has the added benefit (maybe, depending on where the compressor is located) of only needing 6"of rear clearance instead of 12" when it's wall mounted
@@robbie6625 that's a good point. I am installing one that will be ground-installed. but if its attached to the outside wall and that only needs to have 6 inches of clearance why can't the ground installation be the same 6 inches? what is the difference? (I'm just curious if i can install my outside unit a bit closer to the house).
Be careful if you use 3" screws to fasten the indoor unit to the wall, as shown at 1:44. Be very, very sure there are no electrical cables right there, waiting to be pierced by the screws. Maximum screw penetration should be no more than 1 3/4" below the surface of the 1/2" drywall if cabling is in the area.
Seth, excellent video. It's definitely bolster my confidence in getting mine installed. Many thanks. Subscribed because I'm confident I could use your help in the future : )
I never saw anybody install the mini-split with the condenser unit on the ground. Most installations for the condenser unit are put on two hangers on the side of the building that come with the unit. After installation, the system needs to be vacuumed dry with a vacuum pump then, the gas needs to be installed in the lines with a refrigerant with proper instrument readings.
The do it yourself, model of the Mr. Cool Mini split has several options. we chose to mount to the ground because we already have the concrete pad ready. the do it yourself model is precharged and does not have to be vacuumed. Basically, once the seal is broken on the lines, it will put the appropriate pressure for you.
Could this be set up inside a large building where we are is building a room? (Ie…the outdoor unit would actually be inside of an unfinished area of a large building. )
Great detailed video. Never use a adjustable wrench that has a loose grip on it. If that jaw has any play in it you will end up rounding that brass nut Up to seventy plus percent of leaks come from not having the recommended torque.
I was thinking the exact same thing. This would be a great unit for me but I need to install multi zone and I don't want all the extra line hanging around as the two units are different lengths from the heat pump.
You can get a 15 ft length as well from iwae. The lineset is an awkward look no matter how it’s finished and are constructive ways to easily hide the excess. Or you can add an extra $2000 just to have someone install it neat. The point is that it’s diy and this is the price of poker.
@@slipstreamvids7422 I know there are alternate lineset lengths. I believe the standard on a Mr Cool is 25 tho. I DIY installed a couple of Pioneer units and cut the lineset to fit. The cost of the tools to do so, was less than the additional costs Mr Cool charges for their basic kits.
Most condensers come precharged... You still have to vacuum the evap and lines... My question is what about the air you introduced into the line when you made the connections??
For this install I just followed the directions. It does not show any place that needs to be vacuumed. Mr. Cool asked to use clips from the video in ads so they also did not mention anything about pulling a vacuum.
My question is I know they have a decent warranty how ever…. Is that warranty void if you do it yourself vs having a license contractor do it ? I’ve heard it’s in the small print.
That is an interesting question. I did not read the fine print. They probably do get you with some things. Like if you wire the unit yourself vs having that done by an electrician.
On the website for the diy unit the linked warranty does exclude mini-split systems not installed by a licensed hvac contractor but specifically and clearly states that it does not apply to the diy product line.
Nice video! Only thing I like to comment on is that excess line set should be coiled horizontally to avoid oil pooling? At least that's what I heard from other DIY mini split videos.
The coil is just so long. I can suggest that to the homeowner and see if he wants to bend that sideways. Too bad mr cool does not sell a shorter line kit.
Actually they say the opposite. Coil vertically to avoid oil pooling. I don't quite understand but I guess the oil is suspended in the refrigerant and the horizontal coil makes it fall out of suspension or something...
According to the MrCool manual: "Keep excess refrigerant hose coiled. Wrap with protective tape and store behind the condenser in a horizontal position (flat with the ground)."
I see you didn't install an a/c disconnect box. I will install my system like you did under a breaker box. I guessing you don't need a disconnect since the breaker is just above it to kill the power when needed. I'm sure every state's codes are different. I'm in Florida. Thanks for any feedback. Craig
For this install, we did not use a quick disconnect box. Just used the breaker as the disconnect. There's certainly nothing wrong with adding that quick disconnect. But it seemed a bit redundant in this situation.
I have an older brick house. Is it possible to run the lines through the top of a window rather than drilling through the brick? And thank you for this easy to follow and understand video. I was hesitant with these with most needing to have some evac and charge the lines. Still hesitant on the electrical part, I hate messing with electricity even though I know it's easy. Plus I already have a central heat/ac unit set up. It went out few years ago, 2200. for the part, 4000. to replace.
I'd have to agree right out of the box It was a little bit daunting but once I got into it It really wasn't that bad. Not really sure what would happen if a leak was found?
This is a mrcool DIY. In a normal mini split the copper lines are shipped empty and a vacuum needs to be pulled. In the Mr. Cool DIY the copper lines are shipped full with valve ends. No vacuum is needed on this unit. I have a Della mini split video coming out soon where I do vacuum the lines.
great installation video but 20 amp circuit breaker is probably not to code should be 25 amps with #10 wire to panel. Did to review with an electrician?
The 20 amp breaker was installed based on the recommended amperage rating in the Mr. Cool install guide. The install was not inspected by an electrician. It should not have to being a DIY model. (Although I can see the benefit of that)
The wire used from the mini-split to the disconnect (circuit breaker is NMB). According to the NEC electrical codes, this is an incorrect usage of this type of wire. The proper wire should either be Thhn/Thwn or UF cable. Would fail an electrical inspection wired with NMB.
Yes. Inside a conduit is not a location. The wire is located wherever the conduit is, therefore you have installed NMB in an outdoor/wet location which it not rated for. A conduit located outside is considered a wet location.
How does the indoor handler unit get power? The manual showed an “air break switch” next to the handler but the directions said nothing about it. So does the black cable provide power back from the condenser to the handler in addition to communication?
The indoor unit does get power from the outdoor unit. There is no actual communication between the two units as far as wifi or Ethernet. The indoor unit dictates how the outdoor unit operates.
Hey man, nice work…could u have used 12g instead of the 10g from disconnect to the unit? Helping a friend install a Hessaire 12,000btu - 115v unit and having difficulty getting the 10g whip to fit into the unit, thanks
The mr cool has push caps on the ends of the lines that hold in the coolant. No vacuum is needed. The lines and outdoor unit are both already pre charged.
Nice work! Was this install in a very cold or very hot location? Is the 10 x 12 shed uninsulated? I feel the 12K btu is too big for this size building. If location gets snow and freezing weather it would be advisable to have mounted outdoor unit above ground level because of condensate and possible snow blocking fan.
This location does not get very hot or much snow. Summer might see 90 degree on the hottest day. As for cold the lowest temp is around 10 degrees. The 10x12 is fully insulated as a detached office.
@@sethcraftworkshop Thanks for the reply. I installed the same unit in my 450 sq/ft insulated garage in Michigan. I don't run it all the time, just when the weather is bad and I need to work out there. The end user will be blown away how well it works and how quiet they are.
Gracias todo esta vien explicado paso a paso ..se lo digo porque hay personas que no explican vien el proceso de cada trabajo de instalar siertos productos todos lo dicen rápido y eso no esta vien. Usted se toma su tiempo en cada proceso de instalación..buen trabajo 👍👍👍👍👏👏👏
Nicely video thanks for the clear instructions. I did almost exactly what you did but for some reason my outside compressor is not kicking on with that i am not getting any cool air am i missing something?
Idk about your local codes but what I've been told from NEC code is that you shouldn't run romex in conduit as it heats up. It's better to use individual conductors I'm sure the book meant 10 gauge stranded wire, and I'd crimp some spades on it
I'm pretty sure that's a wet location so it either has to be UF or thhn. The price you paid for the nm cable you could have bought thhn and been safer and probably cheaper. Nice job, but one question is why the line set coiled up? Can't you order a shorter line set?
@@Hunter__14 I have the same question. Will be building new construction with dedicated 20amp circuits for each unit. Not sure but I think I would need 12ga solid wire.
Hi. Great Video. I have a small 1.5 car garage (~400 sq ft) I'd love to cool. Can you recommend a unit that is super-easy to install that runs on a 110 v AC outlet (instead of being hard-wired)? My budget is $1500.00 but I'd love to be closer to $1000.00 or less.
Is the 115v unit as efficient as the 220v units?? Why did Mr.Cool opt to change the 12k btu diy units to 115v only? why were they not available in 220v?
I looked up the efficiency and unfortunately in the NW they are less efficient to the point that won't qualify for the 30% federal tax credit. I think it requires HSPF2 >.95 and these are .90. The 18k is 9.8.
The red wire that you see in the video is part of the electrical from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. The grid power uses 120v black, white, ground.
Another point: Hardi cement board products will NOT "destroy any kind of hole saw you use". Go ahead and use your hole saw; I've used mine many, many times to cut holes in Hardiboard without any difficulty at all. Today's hole saws are TOUGH. Excellent video!
The Mr. Cool DIY has caps on the ends of the line-set to keep the lines charged. The air is already purged from the lines. These DO NOT need a vacuum. They are made to be installed by the homeowner without the vacuum pump.
The 12k 110v until I'm looking at from Costco says the max fuse is 25A, so shouldn't I get a 25A breaker? Also was the 10/2 wire included or did you buy it separately? thanks
a 25amp should be fine. The 10/2 wire was purchased separately. You can find electrical whips that are already installed in conduit. Makes things a little easier.
How long is that cord with the wires inside at 10:27 in? I’m about to install the same exact unit in my shop and the inside wall unit is on another wall than the outside unit. Probably about 10-15 feet away. I’m hoping it reaches.
I’m pretty sure the Mr. cool 12 K uses 14 four wire which is much cheaper and easier to work with than the 10 gauge wire. The 10 gauge wire is overkill and not needed.
Hi, just picked up my Mr. Cool from HD, brought it home and opened the box and found one of the blue caps on the line set laying in the bottom of the box, cannot get a hold of anybody from Mr. cool and don’t wanna go through the hassle of installing this whole unit and still have to call an HVAC guy to vacuum the lines. Any idea if this is a dealbreaker? Tks
I’ve been watching several videos, and everyone says you need to ‘vacuum’ the ‘lines’??? But I’m confused; if the system says ‘pre charged’ isn’t it supposed to be installed without vacuuming?
I'm guessing the people that leave those comments are unfamiliar with the new Mr. Cool pre Charged mini split. This unit is designed to install without vacuum.
Any tips for finding your top plate or studs. I have tried using several stud finders, and they don't work very well. Even highly rated stud finders work poorly.
I'm about to order this exact mini split. I'm hiring an electrician to run 220 to my shop, but will it work on a 115? Or should I continue to have him install the 220 for this?
Hi there, Did you feed the 10 wire into a 1/2'' flexible conduit? I was trying to use 3/4" conduit but the cover on the outdoor unit accepts 1/2'' inch only unless a bigger hole is made which it seems kind a hard to make a clean whole since there is not pre made Knockouts. Any input on this? Thanks for the great video!
Yes, I did press the romax cable into the half inch conduit. I recommend that you use 10awg thhn wire. This threaded wire is easier to flex into conduit.
I used a 3/4" liquid tight NM conduit and had the same trouble with the too small 1/2" hole int the cover. Work around I used was a 3/4" LB short aluminum conduit body. I put a, 3/4"-1/2" metal reducing bushing into the conduit body and attached that to the cover from the inside with a 1/2" metal conduit nipple.
Technically you could place a plug on the end of the 120v power wire seen feeding this Mr cool. But I believe it's required to have an exterior breaker by code. Installing a small outdoor breaker box is not difficult.
Help, my husband just installed this and electricity is working but the unit is not blowing cool air even though it’s set on 62 degrees. What could be wrong?
Great video & very helpful! But I found you didn’t install an ac disconnect box. Does it mean it’s not needed? I just ordered a Mr. Cool mini split as same as yours. Thanks!
Rhanks for watching! The main panel connected to the building has a breaker dedicated to this mini split. That should be sufficient to cut power if need be.
I'm installing this same unit but when I attached the air handler to the mounting plate I don't think one side locked in correctly. How the heck do you get it to let go to try again?
The reason Romax should not be used outside is because of the paper inside the sheath. you could just strip the outer cover off and use it, but individually stranded wire would be the first choice 😮
Vertical loops in the refrigerant lines will trap compressor oil. Oil will not return to the compressor. Compressor will fail for lack of lubrication. Replaced 3 DIY installs so far with less than a season of operation. Use shorter line sets.
Could you lay the loops horizontally?
YES so oil can travel down hill towards compressor. @@mrbigstuffbsa
Would even just one loop cause that issue as well?
@@gt5193 Yes. I wouldn't trust it. Oil could trap and slug the compressor with liquid.
Yup because all of the coil outside is acting like a txv valve
Mr Cool would be smart to offer line sets at various lengths that work well with different applications.
You did an excellent job of showing everything and clearly explaining. I started my install today.
I hope your install goes well. Thank you for watching..
This video helped a great deal in my installation of one of these units this past weekend. In all of the videos I've seen of the installs, the hole saw attachment, a nice cardboard template and the hex key were included and the wires on head unit to condenser power line were numbered/labeled. None of that was the case for me. The manual included in the boxes is... adequate. Make sure that you can easily refer to this video. I already owned the appropriate hole saw but since I was at my best friend's house, 117 miles from mine, I now own two 2.5" hole saws. There was nothing in the manual specifying how the unlabeled wires on the power cord should be hooked up in the head unit or condenser. I am eternally grateful to Seth that he showed and narrated "Red wire goes to #2..." Good luck, be careful.
I am in the process installing my 36k as we speak. On page 27 of my manual it absolutely states that the excess coils of lineset must be kept horizontal
Thank you for that information. The homeowner did lay the extra pipes down and put a little decorative lattice around it.
That looks like crap.
Thank you... I'm comfortable with everything...I made a call to my local certified master electrician for the wiring part...which wasn't too expensive. So this will be done and then my shed will have HVAC...😊😊😊
That was hands down the best Mr Cool installation video I've seen. Thank you!
Thank you. I was going for easy to follow. Nice to hear that it was helpful.
So you felt no need to evacuate the system before releasing the refrigerant into the evaporator?
I've been contemplating installing a mini split, replacing a swamp cooler setup that I have on an upper floor on my home. I have an HVAC system set up in my home, and I also have a zoned gas hot water boiler set up as well and a pellet stove on three levels. But my home doesn't have an open concept, so heating and cooling is usually irregular and not consistent. And it's wasteful heating and cooling areas that are not always occupied. Having minispits to control the environment to a particular area seems more cost effective than running the whole house HVAC or the boiler system. I'm looking to install an 18k btu dual split unit for my upstairs family room and downstairs weight room. I've watched a few installation videos on various sizes and brands of DIY minisplits. I've gotten a lot of tips and ideas from watching them. I enjoyed your video and your tutorial. Nice job..😎
Three stories and a pellet stove? You must be a fellow Yankee up here in the far north! Salutations!
I am no new comer to Mr. Cool DIY, as I own 3. Here are some recommendations.
It's good to raise the outdoor unit, even just an inch or two, to avoid junk piling up under and around the unit. They sell cheap set of rubber feet meant for just this. Of course, you can spend more and get a nice raised perch with a little roof, too. You can do this post-installation, because it's just an inch or so movement.
Foam covering any lineset left out to the elements will degrade. At minimum, wrap them all with vinyl tape or something. It'd been better to pre-plan and put them in a protected space, but it's too late now. Yes, they say you can disconnect and reconnect once without losing too much refrigerant or causing new issues, but I wouldn't do that.
Great tips. Thank you. My next install is a 2 zone unit. I will be sure to use the rubber spacer feet. This kit came with tape to put on the lines.
You definitely can disconnect and reconnect. You just have to shut the valves on the condenser. I didn't hear any escape (had to replace a condenser under warranty). The instructions were literally to disconnect and reconnect.
Thank you for this video. I'm an electrician so I do have to say it was like nails on a chalkboard to see you put Romex in that conduit. You need to use THHN wire! But other than that it looks good! Thanks for making this video!
Am I correct that it is THHN which comes in pre-packaged HVAC Whip kits (which I plan to use from the outside disconnect box)? Thanks!
@@johnoudin5646 yes it is!
Came here to say the same thing... had a hard time watching the rest after that. Technically in an outdoor setting it should be THWN but I'm pretty sure all THHN is also THWN.
Also you can technically put romex in conduit (I don't like it) but not outdoors since Romex is not wet/damp location rated.
Minisplit install looks straight forward, I'd just be concerned about rain infiltration where the lines come through the wall. You'll have give us a follow up about how the lines were made tidy and sealed up for the weather. Thanks for sharing this.
Ah yes spray foam insulation was put in that hole and silicone around the plastic sleeve.
Some mini splits comes pre charged, seems to be easy installation. Thanks!
@@fpafdc70 From my research the pre-charged systems cost extra for the ease of install. The downside is the all the extra line that cannot be cut out of the install as this will "release the charge". I have seen other videos that suggest the coils should be coiled horizontal and not left vertical. I think the homeowner was going to clean up the install so maybe they will find a way to coil this correctly.
A couple of things, its a code violation to put romex in conduit, its compliant if you strip the outer plastic off and run individual wires only. 12 gauge is rated for 20 amp, 10 gauge for 30 amp. Mccool recommandes the excessive freon lines are placed horizontal to prevent compressor oil form collecting in the low spots. I have one of these it uses 800 to 1200 watts or 7 to10 amps of power. they are great units not needing a HVAC guy
Please cite the code reference for romex not being permitted in conduit. There is nothing in the NEC that says you can't run romex in conduit
He almost got it right. That was a very confident response, but you cannot strip Romex and run it through conduit. Romax is in fact permitted to be ran inside of conduit as long as it isn’t in a wet or damp location.
Great job. Would also like to see how all those wires/hoses were "tidied up". That would be useful
True. I plan on installing another system soon and can make it look cleaner.
I saw another video of someone who built something that looked like a wood pallet (only prettier) and put it behind the unit, and put the line set/hoses/wires behind the pallet. Looked quite nice.
Our Mr. Cool is 6 years old and it worked fine for the first 4 years. We haven't been that lucky with years 5 and 6. Nothing but trouble!
What trouble?
Just wanted to say Thanks for posting this video - used it to complete my own install, working like a charm. (Used plastic gutter as the outside molding, worked perfectly)
Nice! Thank you for watching and the feedback. A plastic gutter cover is a great idea!
Good video but the connectors used for the wiring are for indoor use only! I believe you can shorten the electrical lines that come with the unit so you do not have all that excess wiring bunched up around the unit.
Thank you for posting this! VERY HELPFUL!!
Happy to help. These are not too bad to install.
Dunning Kruger Effect video advice. The compressor often fails with a long vertical coil restricting oil getting to the compressor. Any gas pipe coil should be laid horizontal, but it's best to be cut short to match correct length and professionally flanged copper pipe ends and drench fittings with a spray bottle detergent mix for a better leak test for bubbles.
Yes, in a perfect world line sets would be custom cut to fit. But this is an entirely different product line, a DIY series. The lines are fixed lengths and the excess must be dealt with.
I just ordered the 1800 btu. Great video looks just like hanging a microwave over the stove.
It is an easy install with the lineset precharged. No vacuum needed.
Awesome video. Only thing I'll change it I end up doing a diy is I'll have to hang mine off the side of my house. I live in Canada so it'd be buried in the winter if I don't
Seems like many people mount them on the wall. That is a good option especially for high snow areas.
@@sethcraftworkshopit also has the added benefit (maybe, depending on where the compressor is located) of only needing 6"of rear clearance instead of 12" when it's wall mounted
@@robbie6625 that's a good point. I am installing one that will be ground-installed. but if its attached to the outside wall and that only needs to have 6 inches of clearance why can't the ground installation be the same 6 inches? what is the difference? (I'm just curious if i can install my outside unit a bit closer to the house).
Detailed explanation
Keep the good work going
Thank you. This unit has worked well.
I will try to install mine next weekend, video and instructions steps are excellent, thank you for sharing!
Be careful if you use 3" screws to fasten the indoor unit to the wall, as shown at 1:44. Be very, very sure there are no electrical cables right there, waiting to be pierced by the screws. Maximum screw penetration should be no more than 1 3/4" below the surface of the 1/2" drywall if cabling is in the area.
Seth, excellent video. It's definitely bolster my confidence in getting mine installed. Many thanks. Subscribed because I'm confident I could use your help in the future : )
Good presentation for the install, the only thing you need is an adjustable wrench or two.
Yes sadly I did not bring those the day I installed. (This build was over an hour from my home)
Dude you did well! Great video shared with my neighbor looks like the way to go. Thanks for making the video.
Thank you. This install went well. Makes an exterior office space comfortable in the cold and heat.
How did you know what size breaker you would need for the outside unit? I do not see and specifications listed in the manual.
I never saw anybody install the mini-split with the condenser unit on the ground. Most installations for the condenser unit are put on two hangers on the side of the building that come with the unit. After installation, the system needs to be vacuumed dry with a vacuum pump then, the gas needs to be installed in the lines with a refrigerant with proper instrument readings.
The do it yourself, model of the Mr. Cool Mini split has several options. we chose to mount to the ground because we already have the concrete pad ready. the do it yourself model is precharged and does not have to be vacuumed. Basically, once the seal is broken on the lines, it will put the appropriate pressure for you.
@@sethcraftworkshop It's not about the correct pressure. You vacuum out the system to remove air which over time destroys the AC unit
@@heatherpoole4951 they are designed to not have to be vacuumed. Even many of the new whole house units come precharged now.
It's pre charged, that's why it's twice the price of others. No HVAC guy needed.
If the compressor is sent in vacuum and the lines are sent charged, then they have thought of it all.
Best video I've seen on step by step to install! Thank you!
Thank you. These diy models install quickly without too much trouble.
Could this be set up inside a large building where we are is building a room? (Ie…the outdoor unit would actually be inside of an unfinished area of a large building. )
You did an awesome job sir , thank you so much. You are a great teacher.
Thank you. Very nice to have a mini split on these 85 degree summer days.
Did you not have to purge the air out of the line set? Otherwise would there not be air introduced to the system?
The DIY mr. cool lines are precharged and do not require a vacuum.
Oh so the lines are sealed until they are tightened on the fittings? Then the line set opens up when screwed down?@@sethcraftworkshop
@@kurt357357I have the same question?? Is it like when you pierce the top of a tube??
Great detailed video. Never use a adjustable wrench that has a loose grip on it. If that jaw has any play in it you will end up rounding that brass nut Up to seventy plus percent of leaks come from not having the recommended torque.
Those wrenches were all I had for this install. I just installed another unit this past week and used crescent wrenches.
The line set is the reason I haven't installed a Mr Cool system...the excess line coil isn't a pretty finish.
I was thinking the exact same thing. This would be a great unit for me but I need to install multi zone and I don't want all the extra line hanging around as the two units are different lengths from the heat pump.
The line is annoyingly long. Too bad they cant sell different lengths in kits.
It would be nice if the kit would allow for shorter lines.
You can get a 15 ft length as well from iwae. The lineset is an awkward look no matter how it’s finished and are constructive ways to easily hide the excess. Or you can add an extra $2000 just to have someone install it neat. The point is that it’s diy and this is the price of poker.
@@slipstreamvids7422 I know there are alternate lineset lengths. I believe the standard on a Mr Cool is 25 tho. I DIY installed a couple of Pioneer units and cut the lineset to fit. The cost of the tools to do so, was less than the additional costs Mr Cool charges for their basic kits.
Most condensers come precharged... You still have to vacuum the evap and lines... My question is what about the air you introduced into the line when you made the connections??
For this install I just followed the directions. It does not show any place that needs to be vacuumed. Mr. Cool asked to use clips from the video in ads so they also did not mention anything about pulling a vacuum.
@@sethcraftworkshop thanks...
thanks for the install some videos show to vacuum the lines is it necessary
The DIY model of the Mr Cool has precharged lines that don't need a vacuum.
Wait wait, did you install the drain hose on botton of the outside units! You made this look so simple and it isn’t!
This was my first install for a mini split. It honestly was not that bad. Mr. Cool makes the install straight forward.
My question is I know they have a decent warranty how ever…. Is that warranty void if you do it yourself vs having a license contractor do it ? I’ve heard it’s in the small print.
That is an interesting question. I did not read the fine print. They probably do get you with some things. Like if you wire the unit yourself vs having that done by an electrician.
On the website for the diy unit the linked warranty does exclude mini-split systems not installed by a licensed hvac contractor but specifically and clearly states that it does not apply to the diy product line.
at 7:45 are there specific Torque specifications to tighten the connections? or just wing it? serious question :-)
There are torque specs. I did not have a wrench for that so I just did the best I could. Has worked flawlessly for almost a year.
@@sethcraftworkshop Thanks I appreciate it. I'm about to install a Blueridge DIY and I'm just taking my time to do it right.
Nice video! Only thing I like to comment on is that excess line set should be coiled horizontally to avoid oil pooling? At least that's what I heard from other DIY mini split videos.
The coil is just so long. I can suggest that to the homeowner and see if he wants to bend that sideways. Too bad mr cool does not sell a shorter line kit.
They do sell a 16’ line but it can not be substituted since all units are factory packed with the 25’ line.
I've heard so many people say this, but haven't seen anyone running into problems with these Mini-Split units, so take it for what it is, I guess.
Actually they say the opposite. Coil vertically to avoid oil pooling. I don't quite understand but I guess the oil is suspended in the refrigerant and the horizontal coil makes it fall out of suspension or something...
According to the MrCool manual: "Keep excess refrigerant hose coiled. Wrap with protective tape and store behind the condenser in a horizontal position (flat with the ground)."
I see you didn't install an a/c disconnect box. I will install my system like you did under a breaker box. I guessing you don't need a disconnect since the breaker is just above it to kill the power when needed. I'm sure every state's codes are different. I'm in Florida. Thanks for any feedback. Craig
For this install, we did not use a quick disconnect box. Just used the breaker as the disconnect. There's certainly nothing wrong with adding that quick disconnect. But it seemed a bit redundant in this situation.
I have an older brick house. Is it possible to run the lines through the top of a window rather than drilling through the brick? And thank you for this easy to follow and understand video. I was hesitant with these with most needing to have some evac and charge the lines. Still hesitant on the electrical part, I hate messing with electricity even though I know it's easy. Plus I already have a central heat/ac unit set up. It went out few years ago, 2200. for the part, 4000. to replace.
Hire a pro. Your sound scared
Did you manage to run it through the window?
nice job! I hate to say it though... this feels like... 50% DIY 50% should hire an electrician haha
I'd have to agree right out of the box It was a little bit daunting but once I got into it It really wasn't that bad. Not really sure what would happen if a leak was found?
thanks for the explanation, but what about vacuum on lines before releasing the gas?
This is a mrcool DIY. In a normal mini split the copper lines are shipped empty and a vacuum needs to be pulled. In the Mr. Cool DIY the copper lines are shipped full with valve ends. No vacuum is needed on this unit. I have a Della mini split video coming out soon where I do vacuum the lines.
All of your excess coil needs to be placed horizontal. Everyone keeps showing how to install these units wrong. What is the point?
Exactly!
Is it recommended to use 10/2 over 12/2 wire by chance? Is it recommended per Mr. Cool installation instructions? Great video!
12/2 awg can handle 20 amps. That is plenty to handle this mini split. 10/2awg is a bit overkill.
Does the wall mount require to be installed up above by the ceiling or can it be installed like a motel style cooler
great installation video but 20 amp circuit breaker is probably not to code should be 25 amps with #10 wire to panel. Did to review with an electrician?
The 20 amp breaker was installed based on the recommended amperage rating in the Mr. Cool install guide. The install was not inspected by an electrician. It should not have to being a DIY model. (Although I can see the benefit of that)
The wire used from the mini-split to the disconnect (circuit breaker is NMB). According to the NEC electrical codes, this is an incorrect usage of this type of wire. The proper wire should either be Thhn/Thwn or UF cable. Would fail an electrical inspection wired with NMB.
Is that because of the possibility that moisture could reach the wire?
Yes. Inside a conduit is not a location. The wire is located wherever the conduit is, therefore you have installed NMB in an outdoor/wet location which it not rated for. A conduit located outside is considered a wet location.
He also coiled the lines in a vertical position, which is not correct. He also ordered way too much line .
Very good demonstration loved it
Thank you for watching. happy to help.
How does the indoor handler unit get power? The manual showed an “air break switch” next to the handler but the directions said nothing about it. So does the black cable provide power back from the condenser to the handler in addition to communication?
The indoor unit does get power from the outdoor unit. There is no actual communication between the two units as far as wifi or Ethernet. The indoor unit dictates how the outdoor unit operates.
Such a well done detailed and easy to follow video! Thank You!
Thank you for watching.
Hey man, nice work…could u have used 12g instead of the 10g from disconnect to the unit? Helping a friend install a Hessaire 12,000btu - 115v unit and having difficulty getting the 10g whip to fit into the unit, thanks
Yes 12awg is rated at 20 amps. You will be fine with 12awg.
Yes
Did you have to evacuate the lines at any time? Other DIY's mini-splits include this step to be completed. What's different about mr. Cool linesets?
The mr cool has push caps on the ends of the lines that hold in the coolant. No vacuum is needed. The lines and outdoor unit are both already pre charged.
Nice work! Was this install in a very cold or very hot location? Is the 10 x 12 shed uninsulated?
I feel the 12K btu is too big for this size building. If location gets snow and freezing weather it
would be advisable to have mounted outdoor unit above ground level because of condensate
and possible snow blocking fan.
This location does not get very hot or much snow. Summer might see 90 degree on the hottest day. As for cold the lowest temp is around 10 degrees.
The 10x12 is fully insulated as a detached office.
@@sethcraftworkshop Thanks for the reply. I installed the same unit in my 450 sq/ft insulated garage
in Michigan. I don't run it all the time, just when the weather is bad and I need to work out there. The end user will be blown away how well it works and how quiet they are.
Always connect your power wire last even if your breaker is off more safe
Gracias todo esta vien explicado paso a paso ..se lo digo porque hay personas que no explican vien el proceso de cada trabajo de instalar siertos productos todos lo dicen rápido y eso no esta vien. Usted se toma su tiempo en cada proceso de instalación..buen trabajo 👍👍👍👍👏👏👏
I am happy to hear the video was helpful!
Nicely video thanks for the clear instructions.
I did almost exactly what you did but for some reason my outside compressor is not kicking on with that i am not getting any cool air am i missing something?
I am not sure why the outdoor unit would not be turning on. This system worked right away when the power was turned on.
did you figure out the issue?
Idk about your local codes but what I've been told from NEC code is that you shouldn't run romex in conduit as it heats up. It's better to use individual conductors
I'm sure the book meant 10 gauge stranded wire, and I'd crimp some spades on it
Very interesting. The run is very short and will be in the shade most of the year. At 12 amps max this unit should not heat up much.
Why did u use 10 awg instead of 12 awg, from my understanding 10 awg is meant for 30 amps, none the less awesome video
I'm pretty sure that's a wet location so it either has to be UF or thhn. The price you paid for the nm cable you could have bought thhn and been safer and probably cheaper. Nice job, but one question is why the line set coiled up? Can't you order a shorter line set?
@@Hunter__14 I have the same question. Will be building new construction with dedicated 20amp circuits for each unit. Not sure but I think I would need 12ga solid wire.
Yes, Romex is not rated for wet locations.
Hi. Great Video. I have a small 1.5 car garage (~400 sq ft) I'd love to cool. Can you recommend a unit that is super-easy to install that runs on a 110 v AC outlet (instead of being hard-wired)? My budget is $1500.00 but I'd love to be closer to $1000.00 or less.
Can I use a10 gauge extension cord and cut the ends to make it easier ??
It would be better to use thhn stranded wire. You can buy that to length at a homestore or local hardware store.
Thanks
Not recommended
Since it's just 110V can you connect it to an existing 110V outdoor circuit with a disconnect box?
Yes you can. I like the 60amp disconnect boxes. They are wired to accept 120v or 240v.
Just curious. Other videos show a 240 volt circuit. Why was this only a 115volt?
They sell 115v and 208v versions
Is the 115v unit as efficient as the 220v units?? Why did Mr.Cool opt to change the 12k btu diy units to 115v only? why were they not available in 220v?
I looked up the efficiency and unfortunately in the NW they are less efficient to the point that won't qualify for the 30% federal tax credit. I think it requires HSPF2 >.95 and these are .90. The 18k is 9.8.
You said this is a 120vac unit. Why do you have a red wire, that's a 220vac wire? The black, white and green are 120vac wiring. Please explain.
The red wire that you see in the video is part of the electrical from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. The grid power uses 120v black, white, ground.
Why does it call for 10ga wire when it's connecting to a 20amp breaker?
Thanks for the video very helpful. How long did it for you to complete?
Its hard to judge the time because I was filming. But it was all done in 4 hours with video. So It can be installed within 3 hours for sure.
Could you of used 12/2 instead of 10/2 wire? I am going to install one of these and i already have a roll of 12/2 from a previous project ...
Yes, you can.
Another point: Hardi cement board products will NOT "destroy any kind of hole saw you use". Go ahead and use your hole saw; I've used mine many, many times to cut holes in Hardiboard without any difficulty at all. Today's hole saws are TOUGH. Excellent video!
And hole saws are a available with carbide tips just like that jigsaw blade.
Well done on both the install and the step-by-step vid.
Thank you. This install has performed well.
DOES EACH ROOM IN THE HOUSE NEEDS A SEPARATE SYSTEM; IF NOT HOW DO YOU CINNECT OTHER ROOMS TO A SINGLE UNIT?
This is a single zone mini split. You can get multi zone. Theose have a single outdoor unit and multiple inside units.
I read online a mini split is suppose to have a quick disconnect switch kit to power exterior condenser. Why didn’t you use one?
The disconnect is 5 feet from the unit.
No vacuum pumping the lines?
Correct. This is a somewhat new type of mini split that has precharged lines.
The outdoor breaker, was that a gfci breaker as the unit is outside ?
Since you used #10 wire im assuming the breaker is a 30amp?
gfci is not required unless the equipment is 80 Amps or higher
There is a gfci in the house. This mini split allows several breaker sizes. I forget what size was used here.
Unit determines the breaker size, not the wire.
So what happens to all the air in line set along with any moisture it needs vac pump
The Mr. Cool DIY has caps on the ends of the line-set to keep the lines charged. The air is already purged from the lines. These DO NOT need a vacuum. They are made to be installed by the homeowner without the vacuum pump.
The 12k 110v until I'm looking at from Costco says the max fuse is 25A, so shouldn't I get a 25A breaker? Also was the 10/2 wire included or did you buy it separately? thanks
a 25amp should be fine. The 10/2 wire was purchased separately. You can find electrical whips that are already installed in conduit. Makes things a little easier.
How long is that cord with the wires inside at 10:27 in? I’m about to install the same exact unit in my shop and the inside wall unit is on another wall than the outside unit. Probably about 10-15 feet away. I’m hoping it reaches.
I don't remember the length but at least 15 feet. It was plenty long.
@@sethcraftworkshop Thank you for the quick response!
Does it has to have a concrete base? Or can I make a wood one?
You can actually find plastic mini split bases on amazon. I used one last week and they are nice.
I’m pretty sure the Mr. cool 12 K uses 14 four wire which is much cheaper and easier to work with than the 10 gauge wire. The 10 gauge wire is overkill and not needed.
Thank you for just getting to it. And no 20 minute intro
About how much would a professional installation cost? I'm 72 and DIY is out of the question. Thanks
I have not personally hired an hVac installer. But I know one that charges $100 per hour.
How many square feet will it heat or cool?
Good Job 👍so this unit didn't need do Vacuum ? Thanks
Correct the DIY version of the mini split does not need a vacuum.
@@sethcraftworkshop thanks ✌
Hi, just picked up my Mr. Cool from HD, brought it home and opened the box and found one of the blue caps on the line set laying in the bottom of the box, cannot get a hold of anybody from Mr. cool and don’t wanna go through the hassle of installing this whole unit and still have to call an HVAC guy to vacuum the lines. Any idea if this is a dealbreaker? Tks
I'm not 100% sure, but I believe those caps are just a protector for the seal that's inside the line.
@@sethcraftworkshop thank you, Mr. Cool just called me back and told me the same thing so I’m going to proceed with install.
I’ve been watching several videos, and everyone says you need to ‘vacuum’ the ‘lines’??? But I’m confused; if the system says ‘pre charged’ isn’t it supposed to be installed without vacuuming?
I'm guessing the people that leave those comments are unfamiliar with the new Mr. Cool pre Charged mini split. This unit is designed to install without vacuum.
Any tips for finding your top plate or studs. I have tried using several stud finders, and they don't work very well. Even highly rated stud finders work poorly.
You may have an old lathe & plaster wall. Our house has many and it can confuse stud-finders. Also, on old buildings, don't assume 16" centers.
Did the rubber pads come with the unit by chance?
Yes they sure did.
Why didn’t you show how it comes out of the wall? So we can see how sharp of a turn the lines can make?
The 90 degree bend coming out of the wall is sweeping out so that it's not too sharp.
That coil of refrigeration lines stay like that ? Were those lines too long or what ?
The diy mr cool only has a set line length. It would be nice if they could offer a diy kit with other length options.
I'm about to order this exact mini split. I'm hiring an electrician to run 220 to my shop, but will it work on a 115? Or should I continue to have him install the 220 for this?
This unit is 115v - 120v but you can install a 120v breaker in a 240v panel and that will work.
Hi there, Did you feed the 10 wire into a 1/2'' flexible conduit? I was trying to use 3/4" conduit but the cover on the outdoor unit accepts 1/2'' inch only unless a bigger hole is made which it seems kind a hard to make a clean whole since there is not pre made Knockouts. Any input on this? Thanks for the great video!
Yes, I did press the romax cable into the half inch conduit. I recommend that you use 10awg thhn wire. This threaded wire is easier to flex into conduit.
I used a 3/4" liquid tight NM conduit and had the same trouble with the too small 1/2" hole int the cover. Work around I used was a 3/4" LB short aluminum conduit body. I put a, 3/4"-1/2" metal reducing bushing into the conduit body and attached that to the cover from the inside with a 1/2" metal conduit nipple.
Looks good!
But how does it do in 8' of snow?
Do I need to build a little house for it with louvered vents?
Not sure about heavy snow. This area only gets a few inches. Covering the unit would be fine I imagine.
Do you know if it really exists a mrcool ac with a outlet plug if my house does not have a breaker thingy outside
Technically you could place a plug on the end of the 120v power wire seen feeding this Mr cool. But I believe it's required to have an exterior breaker by code. Installing a small outdoor breaker box is not difficult.
Help, my husband just installed this and electricity is working but the unit is not blowing cool air even though it’s set on 62 degrees. What could be wrong?
I just followed the instructions and the system worked. I am not qualified to troubleshoot any refrigerant issues.
Does this AC unit need to be vacuumed or not? This is my question.
The Mr. COOL diy mini split does not need to be vacuumed. It is ready to connect and use.
The lines are pre-vacuumed.
It’s plug-in play.
It’s do it yourself.
Great video & very helpful! But I found you didn’t install an ac disconnect box. Does it mean it’s not needed? I just ordered a Mr. Cool mini split as same as yours. Thanks!
Rhanks for watching! The main panel connected to the building has a breaker dedicated to this mini split. That should be sufficient to cut power if need be.
@SethCraft Workshop depending on state and county, some require an ac disconnect to be between the breaker And the sub breaker/ main breaker box.
@@Kilianshaw The small sub panel that he installed the breaker in is considered a proper disconnect since it is within sight of the unit.
I'm installing this same unit but when I attached the air handler to the mounting plate I don't think one side locked in correctly. How the heck do you get it to let go to try again?
That happened to us as well. Sadly I do not remember how we got the one side back off the wall.
What do you do with the rest of the pipe coil? I have 20' left over
It actually needs to be laid down horizontally.
Are there any negatives to the extra length of lines being coiled up?
They can get in the way. Also more line to be effected by temperature.
Romex cables can not be run outside of the house not even in conduit. You need to use wiring that is rated for a wet or damp location not romex
I suppose that ground contact wire could have been used.
The reason Romax should not be used outside is because of the paper inside the sheath.
you could just strip the outer cover off and use it, but individually stranded wire would be the first choice 😮