20 Tips for a Great Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2023
- 20 Tips to help you install luxury vinyl plank flooring faster, better and easier! If you follow these vinyl flooring installation tips you’ll have a great end result and amazing renovation.
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How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring as a Beginner - • How to Install Vinyl P...
10 Beginner Mistakes Installing Vinyl Flooring - • 10 Beginner Mistakes I...
6 Ways to Cut Vinyl Plank Flooring - • 6 Ways to Cut Vinyl Pl...
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10 Mistakes Installing Vinyl Plank Flooring - th-cam.com/video/kvo-n2AYZnA/w-d-xo.html
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Great tips 👍
Question: At 5:04 what are you doing there and what tool is that?
Please show LVP installation on stairs!
Brad, I know this is old and you probably won't see it but I was wondering how the LVP in the bathroom is holding up? Any buckling from sitting vanity of the floor. I see so many people say not to put cabinets on LVP because of contraction. Hate to do the remodel and have to do it again. I am using a vanity with legs so I can really cut around it.
Is it bad to put 1/8 plywood that I will staple down on top of my osb subfloor and then put the planks on that?
By far the easiest way to remove all those carpet staples is to hand a pair of pliers to my kids at tell them to go to town. If they are unmotivated, I offer them a nickel for each staple. And the best way to find ones they missed it just take your socks and shoes off and walk around. Like legos, even if there's only one, you'll find it quickly enough.
hahaha, love this!
Lmao 😂 love it
Kids gotta pay for room and board somehow
Brilliant!! My 13 year old daughter was FAR MORE HELP than my 18 year old son!! She was thrilled to help and feel needed. Of course my son is 18!!
Begrudging assistance for as little time as he can get away with. Haha
Not to mention he's always telling me how I'm doing it wrong, that I'm doing it "the hard way"!! You know, with all his vast experience! Haha
@@stevens2706 Pretty typical teenager! I have 4 kids, and when they hit 15 or so, I become the dumbest person on the planet. Around 23 or 24 though, and I start getting smarter again, and more so every year. ,-)
Additional tip: don’t use a tap block. You can damage the locking mechanism and ruin pieces of your floor. Use an off cut of the same flooring bc it fits the locking mechanism perfectly and won’t damage anything.
This is a GREAT tip that I wish I new sooner
Literally recommend the opposite thing. Get ur self a good block
Yep this is what I do
Nice!
A proper tapping block is designed to not hit the locking mechanis.
Hi there! I am so happy to have found your channel ! I am a 71 yr old lady still in reasonably good working order so I have been watching your how to install vinyl plank flooring. I have had several price quotes from the usual flooring companies, (Empire, LL Flooring, plus one from Lowes. The first two nearly gave me a heart attack, the price quotation was two pages long! I think they had charges on there for each move they would make to install. Lowes was ok on the installation price $2.09 per square ft, but the flooring they had I looked up and read hours of comments from the homeowners and came to the obvious conclusion that I was not going to buy the flooring from Lowes. I don't want to put Lowes down, but the comment section was not happy with Lowes at all. So, there I was, still no flooring bought, still no installer to do it. I went out to the mailbox and there was a flyer in the box from Ollies Bargain Outlet near me. For the first time I ever saw in their flyers, they had a huge ad for Vinyl Plank rigid core waterproof flooring.....$1.79 per sq ft and it is ALL Armstrong in several color availability. I had previously looked to see what brands of this type of flooring were the better bets for quality and longevity. Armstrong reviews were encouraging. I started to look to buy some.....most places selling to the public it was $6.99 per sq ft. So, I have decided to go tomorrow to Ollies Bargain Outlet to see what colors they have of the Armstrong Vinyl Plank rigid core. If they have a color I like and enough (they might have to call their other stores if they don't have the number of boxes I need in stock) I think I am going to take the plunge and buy it. I will save hundreds of bucks! I have done click laminate before all by myself but not so sure I want to take on the project so watching your how to videos, I think I have convinced my brother who is mechanically inclined and who does have some of the tools needed, to work with me to put in the vinyl plank ourselves. I know how to miter and have a miter box for use with a hand saw, I know how to put cove or quarter round in, I know how to undercut the mouldings the door jams but watching your videos I sure have picked up some great tips and a good "revisit" to days past when I put laminate floor in all by myself. I have already ripped out the wall to wall carpet and padding, pulled all the base off which was making me CURSE because it was put on with HUGE and I mean HUGE staples so ya, I will have to get taller base to cover what those cursed staples did getting pulled out. My subfloor is good, I do need to check for level and fix per your advice and I am going to put very thin underlay as I don't want the floor to be COLD as it is my bedroom, so I read that one CAN use underlay even if the planks already have a pad. So all that to say I love watching you and when I get my floor all done I will see if I can post a picture and hopefully I won't be in a wheelchair at the end of it all. OH the wonderful satisfaction of doing something for ones self. I grew up with a father who was a custom home builder and I followed him around like a puppy dog. Later I managed his bookeeping and his payroll and his kept his subs in line. I wanted so badly to take over the business, but in those days a woman in the building business was taboo and my parents wouldn't hear of it, so off to a useless college I went and by the time I left college there were actually TWO WOMEN not even 90 miles from where we lived that had taken over their family building business and were featured on the local news quite a bit. I love everything about construction and have remodel just about every home I have ever had. I talked my various boyfriends into helping...(I had lots of different boyfriends and they were either mechanics or in the building trades ....I like men that are men and can work with their hands. So thank you for your informative videos and I have enjoyed over four hours this evening watching them and intend to watch all that you have on your channel.....my master bath room is calling for me to help it, and I need a walk in show with bench and all the safety grabs etc so when I get to need those it will already be installed. I am single and live with my younger brother and his adult disabled son and between the three of us, we will get it done with the exception of plumbing, which we will get a pro in for that. God bless and keep sharing your talent with the world on U tube.
I so relate to this comment! Except for the brother part. I’m single, 54 with two daughters that will be my reluctant helpers. I just saw an Ollie’s email and am going to check out what my local store has today. I hope you found something you like. And I too have been reading the reviews from Lowe’s, but for bathroom vanities, and YIKES! And the same goes for Home Depot. So now I’m at a stand still on a much needed vanity. The decent ones out there are pretty expensive and the ones I had budgeted for in an insurance claim are junk. But I’ll press on with some drywall, bead board paneling, and the flooring, of course, and fingers crossed, will find that vanity out there somewhere soon. Oh, and I’ve got to get that oscillating tool, as well!
This was an awesome and informative video. Think I’ll check out his others.
Much luck to you with your projects!
This video is so much better than all the other ones man. Good job and thank you!
My installation made a lot of cut offs. Rather than tossing out a pile of waste that will live forever, I used the scraps to make coasters. Reduced my scrap pile from an overflowing bushel basket to a shoe box sized pile. Made about 100 nice coasters for gifts and sale at craft shows.
You really shouldn’t have too much waste from cut offs unless you have a really weird layout and don’t properly use your cut offs
Guess I should have made a video showing my project. The longest span I had was 6 feet, and the majority of the project was between 30 and 34 inches. Those 48 inch planks needed to be trimmed and not all were usable for any thing else. Don't worry, I won't offer to sell you any coasters. 😢
Great way to upcycle those offcuts!
Bro, that’s the best install video I’ve seen touching on all the major points and stuff you might come across concisely and recapping love it!
Except he didn't show the most time consuming part when doing any floor job: Rip cuts.
Love this video now I’m looking up drop and lock laminate flooring thanks I’m now a fan
Nice video. One thing I would add is that if you leave one of your cuts of carpet open (in the hallway or in another room) you can put all of your tackless strips into it and roll it up. That stuff is so nasty. The carpet makes a good wrapper for it and keeps you safe when you go to throw it out.
Great video and valuable infornation for the diy'ers. You only forgot to mention one tool which is shown in your video: a board pusher (you used it to push that plank under the trims for the first door shown, towards the hall way).
THAT pusher (not the block, but the Z-shape metal pusher) is very essential for this type of job as you need it for every single row to tighten in all the boards on the short seams, all across the span.
Again, great info and awesome job you've done. It looks like mine: great!
you are absolutely right. I covered that tool in depth in other videos, but I should have at least mentioned it here as well
I am in the middle of a vinyl flooring project, I agree the cutter is totally worth the cost. I also wish I knew about the better spacers earlier! Those are a great idea
I lay floor for a living, what you’re laying is hybrid! Use floor scraper to clean floor (even takes up staples), even if not smacking them into the floor with a hammer is way more efficient, same with nails in wall. Have never had a problem shooting skirting back in after as well. When cutting gap filler cut on wall as opposed to skirt so you can easily clean filler off skirting rather than wall.
Very good video. Couple things I’d like to mention. When you use that many starter shims on a wall that isn’t straight it can make it difficult to get the first couple rows locked in. Secondly, if you continuously use the cutoff from the previous row you will have a constant stair step in your seams. I like to do 4-5 rows at a time and make the seams look more random. Feels less commercial to me. Side note, HD just started carrying life proof wall spacers that function similar to the ones you used. Not as tall but work for most installs. Thank you for the content. One of the best I’ve seen on vinyl plank.
lol all the men in the comments, "mansplaining," and giving their two cents. I think vinyl plank looks awful. Every time you talk to someone that installs tile they always recommend and try and push vinyl plank on you because of how easy it is but nothing beats my ceramic kitchen tile and the hard work that went into it. I wanted it done right so I did it myself rather than the lazy and slow contractors that are in my area who never return phone calls and give false promises.
Great overall video. I did my whole home over a long weekend. I took off all my base board at the same time. If reinstalling the same baseboard I would recommend marking the back sides of the boards and the part of the wall that will be covered with a code like 1-1, 1-2 where the first # is the room number and the second is the location in the room. I used nipper plyers to pull stubborn nails. If you have a sub floor while it's exposed is a good time to fix those squeaky floors by screwing deck screws over the areas that have flexed over time at high traffic areas. Just screw them into the floor joists. I bought one of those laminate cutters for the job. The best $100 I ever spent on a single function tool!
Great advice taking the skirtings off. Who likes those like scotia moulds
Perfect timing as usual. Going to start a project like this soon! Thanks so much!
This is perfect Brad! Finishing my new basement right now and picking up the LVP this weekend. Thanks!
Love this! I wish I’d seen this video before my first flooring change. Another awesome video. Thanks Brad
Lots of great tips here. We did most of our first floor with engineered hard wood, but used LVP in the kitchen. Planning on doing LVP in the basement, so will keep this one in mind. Those wall shims looks spectecularly 3D-printable. 🤔 Thanks for sharing!
Absolutely 3d printable!!!
Use lineman pliers to pull staples just don’t squeeze the handle to hard and cut the staples. The Japanese jamb saw works good if you don’t have a multi tool. Open a few boxes and mix your floor together to help with variations in pattern. Run your seams away from natural light ( windows ). Careful if you are filling seams with filler as it will cause high spots if done incorrectly. Also, be careful what filler you use because it can swell over time.
Great tips! Does the Harvey floor patch tend to sweel?
@@Fixthisbuildthat
I’m not sure if it does
i actually like to sort the patterns in to piles, and so when placing planks I can make sure the same pattern isnt placed directly next to each other
Trying to use in bathroom....thoughts how to address butting up to tub? Want nice finish of course....just butt n caulk or maybe use metal runner to slide butt ends into? Appreciate feedback
@@buzzbuzz132
What are you installing ? Ceramic tile ? Wood or vinyl flooring, ?
For the tack stripes you can use a hammer and prybar and use a scrapper for the staples
I used a shovel to pull all the staples from the flooring. Saves my back!
I appreciate this video so much! Thank you for showing us examples of what not to do or how things go wrong! I wanted to hit the like button 5 times throughout the video every time you shared an awesome tip but I already did that at the beginning of the video lol
This is just what I needed. Very detailed. Thank you for this video.
I could not agree more with all these tips. I just went through installing new flooring in 3 rooms and learned these tips along the way. Those blue spacers are new to me so I will looking into those soon. Thicker baseboards really make a huge difference in how the room looks.
With 3 rooms of install you could make your own video now 😀
Great video! But you did not cover how to measure across the width of the room to determine if the last plank is only a few inches wide. Need to discuss how count the number planks across the width and cutting (ripping) them so it is even on both walls.
The best tip I can give anyone about LVP is don't install cheap LVP. It is a headache to work with. It doesn't lock together well, and it's a battle. I almost exclusively run stuff like NUCORE performance series. It's hard to cut, but locks together like a dream. 👍👍👍
Great job, Brad. Another tip is to make sure you have enough material to do the entire job and they are all the same lot number. I had an instance where I bought an extra box and the pieces were slightly thicker.
Bill
Oh wow, again another thing I didn't think of. But manufacturing processes definitely are variable
Boy - that went way better than my first (& last, according to my mom, who helped) try a few years ago. The tongues & grooves on our (allegedly) "top-of-the-line" floor planks kept breaking & chipping off, basically making those planks useless. And yes, we did let the flooring acclimate for actually a few weeks before we began. At first, whenever I was tapping one plank into the previous row along the long edge, I'd get one end in place, & it would pop out as I worked my way down. Finally got a tip from a local flooring company to tape the top along the seam with pieces of painter's tape as I went to prevent that. That, at least, worked like a charm! While we didn't work on it every day, the "few days long" job turned into a few MONTHS long job. Mostly due to trying to figure out problems and having to buy more flooring to replace the planks that had the tongues/grooves break, which new flooring then had to sit & acclimate. Blew through my "waste" allowance even before the job was done, with the chipping/breaking issue! Plus, having to work around lower cabinets that protruded into the room (making the perimeter "jagged"), since this was in part of our kitchen. NOT a fun job! I don't know if I'd trust flooring from Home Depot or Lowe's again. I had previously installed engineered wood flooring - went much more easily. I may give vinyl a try again someday. We'll see.... Thanks for the tips, anyway. Really like your videos - mild humor ("me" nails), no hype, no huge rushing through things, & no loud voice. Have an awesome day!
Great tips for the DIYer! Thank you
Once you've cleaned up the subfloor, that's a good time to walk around the room and fix any squeaky floors.
Excellent tip, Steve! Perfect time to shore up the floor when it's exposed
Removing carpet I suggest to roll, like brad did, and use a longish (2.5-3”) screw to secure it to itself. You might have to make sure carpet is on outside vs padding that wouldn’t be strong enough to hold the screw head 😮 works great, is super quick and for me didn’t fail.
A five in one tool perfect for popping staples right out use the sharp triangle portion of the 5 n 1 tool
Always so satisfying to see the transformation of a room when the new flooring is in!
To pry up those brads I always use a screwdriver and a block of wood to keep it off the floor and create leverage.
I’ve had good luck with fence pliers! Sharp claw to dig under, narrow tips on the pilers end, and a hammer for when you’re fed up and want to just pound the staple in! Haha
i did go hammer time on a couple, lol
A pair or more of flat crowbars will hold the floor from moving also. Just lay the short end on the edge of the flooring and the long end on top. It will bump the wall and keep the floor in place at the correct spacing. And always check spacing as you install. After a few rows it should resist more
When removing staples, I used an ice scraper, normally used to chop ice on pavement, very easy!
Electrician here, and I use my crimp tool to get staples out all the time! Just nip the end and use the leverage to pull it out. Granted, Romex staples are a little easier, but same idea. :)
I use a roofing shingle removing tool/shovel. It's great for removing both the tack strip and the the underlayment staples reducing the need for individual staple removal.
yes, have seen those before with the teeth. those would work great
Hi Brad.
Brad here haha, I've been a flooring installer for 16 years and all the advice you gave in this video is great. This would definitely give people the confidence to do the vinyl planks themselves. I wouldn't mind getting some of that droplock system here in New Zealand all of ours seems to be click system products.
Keep up the good work.
thanks, Brad!
Brad hello where can I go to rent these items I’m in Nashville, Tn to put down vinyl plank cutter, hammer etc ✨✨✨
I've been using a flat head shovel for removing the staples and carpet tacks. It really makes the demolition easy. Just shove the head of the shovel under the carpet tacks and it will pull them right up without any trouble. You can then rub the flat part of the shovel head over the floor and dig up the staples. If you use a magnet, you can pick up all the staples and loose nails/screws. if you have any stragglers, you can pound them into the wood or pull them out individually, depending on how they've been pounded/bent into the wood by the original installers.
Nicely done, Brad! The room looks fantastic! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
thanks, MC!
Great video bro. Question, when do you remove the spacers? Also, how do keep the floor from shifting after removing the spacers? Thanks.
I love these videos! So helpful! Two more tips to add are that with concrete you always need an underlayment because concrete is porous and the underlayment that comes on the flooring only protects from above, not from below! The other is that I noticed using the tapping block can damage that tongue for the tongue and groove system. So we used an off cut to lock into the pieces and then hammer the off cut so we don't damage the tongue!
Thank you. Great tip
Flooring salesman told me as long as the planks had built-in underlayment, more wasn't necessary.
He had the opportunity to sell me 1650' of additional underlayment but didn't.
If you read my comment, you'll see that the additional underlayment is only needed when you have concrete floors.
With lifeproof flooring (from HomeDepot), if you use underlayment, you void the warranty. Also, putting an underlayment underneath the waterproof laminate, will encourage MOLD growth.
Again, if you have CONCRETE FLOORS. They are only waterproof from the top, not the bottom. Concrete floors are porous and seep water from below.
Excellent video.... Fast and to the point.....
The putty knife trick is nice!
Awesome video. I use a grinder it get the tough staples. Takes minutes.
Fantastic tips as always
My dad always says the more you learn the more you earn, Great Video!!! 💯 🔥 👌👀👍
I used my WonderBar for the molding and strips,Painters Scraper, 280 Screws ,some sanding,and alot of cussing,after 2 gallons of Clear sealer for my master bedroom.Used Depots LifeProof wide planks 22mil,went in smooth and so far looks great.Wife was a bit embarrassed as I took a knife to the displays to see scratch resistance😂Also a Oscillating tool is much quicker and helps when you need to notch the jambs
Really enjoyed this video
On the last tip about getting a bigger baseboard, you could also get 1/4 round and use it to hide the gap. It's cheaper than getting new baseboard
When i was an installer i either used a 6-12 inch scraper blade with adjustable handle or just the pry bar. The scape made quick work of the staples but if the plywood was in bad shape it could get caught on divots, dips, nails or edges that were higher. That's why i liked using the pry bar more. I was already gonna use it for the tack strip. Oh n my tip on using pry bar on tack strip is too hot them at the nail. If you do it correctly you can bring it out in one piece making clean up easier
I use the Channel Lock long nose plier and angle cutters to pull staples. If it's a deep one, I use the angle cutters to dig it out and the long nose pliers as leverage. If the long nose will fit in the gap, I go with it and the angle cutters as leverage. Easy and consistent way to pop staples quickly.
Amazing video thank you
My husband and I just installed vynl floor in the bathroom. It wasn't hard because its small bathroom but I definitely should have watched your video first.
Get the Arrow Staple puller. Sold at the Orange Big Box store. I used it to pull hundreds of staple when I did my floors. They pop out so easy.
When leveling small area of floors, I will use tarpaper, you can cut it in larger to smaller strips and slowly build it up. I like your wall shims, typically I cut pieces of flooring and screw them down on the ends and at the joints. Remember to check your cut off piece, you may need to cut off some to make sure you have enough space for 8+ inches and you are a few rows away from a similar joint. I use a scrap piece of flooring to mark where to cut around doorways.
I've heard the tar paper trick before, might have to try that next time. Definitely would be faster and cleaner 👍
You made this seem so easy. Two questions: 1. If you are doing a kitchen is it a good idea to put down flooring around kitchen cabinets or rip the cabinets out and then put down flooring before you replace the cabinets?
2. Do you have any videos showing flooring onto concrete slabs?
Pretty good video with solid info for non pros.
Thanks!
Thank you all your tips
Super video! Thanks!
Thank you for the video!
Using the off cut for the next row works but you will start to create a stairstep pattern that doesn't look good. You need to change it up a bit. Use the off cut for the start of the second row then use a full board for the third row. Start the fourth row with the second off cut. The fifth row starts with a shortened board, maybe half, then continue with full boards. The six of seventh row is the third of off cut or whatever. I promise you, this looks better. Just keep an eye on the seems don't line up behind you. Yes you do create about 3% more waste but you'll appreciate (the look), the work for years. O and sometimes start a row with a full plank and not an off cut. It's the a random off cut in the opposite end.
Thanks for the tips 👍👍👍
Awesome job ❤
I use an 8in adjustable Floor scapper. It can dig into the plywood. So duller blades work better on wooden subfloor. You could also use 7in end nipper plier w the hammer head. I found that gets better grip than adjustable pliers
Prybar is a helpful one too.
Great video sir!!!
Thanks dude, Iearned a lot!
After your old flooring is up, now is a good time to walk around looking for squeeks. Now is the time to try and put some screws into the floor to fix them. Use a stud finder to find the joists and put a 2 inch screw near the squeek. Good luck!
I’m a certified water technician for the stables we use back of the orange bar or flat head screwdriver
How do you know which direction to run planks if your installing throughout the whole house?
Great details!
Crescent makes a great pair of nail puller pliers, I've used them to take nails out of semi trailer floors. If you're removing a whole house full of carpet it's worth it to pick up a shingle shovel, the kind with teeth on it, it'll pry those tack strips right up! Plus you get to work standing up like a person versus hunched over grinding your knees into plywood all day lol
Looks like Lifeproof Dusk Cherry to me! Doing the exact same floor here
Great video! Wish I could hire you guys.
I use a long handle scraper to check for staples and nails on the floor. Also, sometimes the padding underneath the carpet has a million staples and won’t roll up easily. I use a D handle shingle remover. It has flat teeth that drive the staples out. Keep the head perpendicular to the floor so it doesn’t gouge the base floor!
I’ve used an oscillating multi tool with a cut off blade and it zips right through the staples. Easier and faster than pliers or crow bar.
Dykes work great for pulling staples, the tapered side lets you get close to the floor to the pull, or you can clip and hammer if they wont come out
Nice job and thanks for the great advice
You bet!
Diagonal cutting pliers. Lightly grab the staples and leverage them out. Can cut pieces flush if need be as well.
The other way I do it is a 7” grinder with a concrete grinding wheel. I use it for the seams and it walks right through staples too. No belt sander required and the wheel lasts forever
The best method I have found for removing the staples from the floor...get a "floor scraper" from Harbor Freight ($14). It has a sharp edge which catches the edge of the staples and rips them out from the floor. You can go really fast with this and you have to use some force scraping across the floor as it is also pulling the staples as you do this. Last floor I did was about 10' x 10' and it took about 10 minutes to remove all staples if it even took that. Like I said, it goes fast! The blade will dull a bit as it goes, that's okay...it actually makes it better the more you use it. If you slide it too hard with a new edge will just cut through the staples...not a big deal. Oh, and for the $14 bucks for the tool, the blade is double edged so you can flip it. I have had mine for quite some time and I haven't flipped it yet.
Great tips!!!
Great video and great tips thanks for sharing
you're welcome!
Another thing to consider is the direction of placement with regards to light entering the room. I placed my planks with the short side of the plank toward the window. Since my planks had a wood grained pattern, the incoming light highlights the grain in interesting ways. Also, if the floor is not sturdy, it might be better to mount the planks perpendicular to the floor joists.
two good considerations
What is the short side? Are you running the planks lengthwise to the light?
@@dreid4760 Yes. Each plank's narrow width points to the window. (Perpendicular to window)
The other orientation would put your planks parallel to the venetian blinds on the window.
I use a roofing shovel to take up the tack strip by far the fastest way to do it
Awesome, tips 👌
Thank you man 🙏
I would've put the level on the floor up against the wall because you're not installing the vinyl planks up on the wall. Secondly I would take a carpenter square and check each corner. This would eliminate uneven gaps at one end.
Great video, one question. I am still a bit confused about the temporary row when starting, what is the purpose of that since all the planks are the same width?
I used vice grips to pull small nails and big staples so the grip is there so I can wiggle them out without loosing grip on the staples as much.
Can you post a full shopping list to be able to do this please? Thank you!
To remove the tack strip you can also use a standard garden shovel. The long handle really saves your back.
yeah, a little longer handle would have been nice
When removing base, use the utility knife at a steep angle first, and then follow up by tapping a 6" drywall spreader straight down between the wall and the base. If the base is put on with a brad nailer, sometimes the drywall spreader works as a pry bar also for used two of them in tandem true pry base away from the wall. Pry bars are always a little bit of fat and can sometimes damage the sheetrock.
great tip about the drywall knife after utility, definitely using that!
The multi tool that has the round blade made removing staples and pad so much faster especially on stairs, and a roofing shovel with teeth get tac strip up with out breaking your back and very fast
without regard for the subfloor, sticking a screw driver under the staple to pull it out works. Although sometimes only one tine comes out but is removed easily with a pliers.
Great video! Question... why to you do the first row as a temporary row? I know you said it's to make sure everything fits and locks into place, but how does the temporary row help with that? Just trying to understand so I don't misunderstand a cool tip! Thanks!
First row must be perfectly straight, whole floor depend on it.
(if the first row is like an arch, or crowned, it will squeeze or expand the following rows, more and more towards the center of the room)
Joining the boards head-to-head does not give that straightness, the short side of the board is not enough for that.
Therefore, the temporary row is not connected head-to-head, but only with the longer side it is connected to the real first row.
(approximately the center of the plate in the temporary row comes to the joining point in the first row)
When you add a second or even a third row, you can be sure that your floor is as straight as an arrow and you can remove the temporary row.
The ideal tool for pulling staples is fence pliers. They're the ones that look kind of like a hammerhead shark. They have a sharp point on one end if you need to dig under staples, and in a lot of cases that will pull it all the way out. But if it only pulls one end out, you still have the plier bit in the middle, and the curved head lets you roll the staple out while pinching it. They're VASTLY superior to channel-locs for this job
A friend handed me nail pulling pliers with the little extension part that lets you roll back. Those are amazing and it blew me away how well they worked.
Awesome well explained video ,,, you're a professional bro,,,how much will you charge for a room like that,,,I'm about to start my adventure installing that kind of vinyl flooring,,, thanks for all the great tips they're gonna be really helpful for this rookie,,,