At the least he is trying to show people how to get the job done. In the northeast, I simply gave up on so many of the idiots that call themselves mechanics for $120/ hour that just create additional problems or simply don't know what they are doing in the first place. I bought a Yamaha book and learned myself, along with reviewing a couple videos on the same topics and using common knowledge to do a repair. At least I know that I made the mistake, give the guy a break. That was 10 years ago on a 30-foot Grady with twin 250, s , still running strong.
For fear of nicking the shaft, I just thought I'd see how hard it would be to remove the retaining ring. So you bend the lock tab in, and then I was able to use a large screw driver and a rubber mallet to get it to go. Easy-peasy! The ring now has a nick in it from the screw driver, but that's a whole lot better than nicking the shaft. Disassembly and reassembly is super easy at that point. The seals are easy to remove without fear of damaging the shaft. Plus it gives an opportunity to inspect the gears and bearings. Just make sure the transmission is in gear when you do it so the shifter doesn't pull out. But if you are unsure about that, there is no need to remove the shaft at all. The retainer assembly should come right out once the retainer ring is removed.
Nice job guys! I just did my upper shaft seals, prop shaft seals, thermostats, water pump, timing belt and fuel hoses. Now I have to get it in the water for a sea trial.
great video, a note for everyone to remember is even if it looks good, doesn't hurt to test. The seals looked fine superficially but crapped out. Appearance isn't everything!
One note guys. Be carefull with pipe during fitting back, U should find pipe to press outer ring of the seal bcs it is hard part of it,inner part is vulnerable to metal pressing,also U can damage spring which hold inner ring of seal to prop shaft. Great work by the way!👏👏👏
You "can" remove those 2 seals like that if done very carefully. Do "not" use a compressor though to test. A cheap pressure tester is available and won't blow out a good seal. Also if you need to replace the main large seal you will 100% need the correct tools to access it.
What I like about this video is that you found a likely culprit vs have it a mystery. If you hadn’t found line wrapped around the seal area looking for a bend shaft might be a good next step. Has the repair held up?
Repair has held up for the past two years lower unit oil is clean and water hasn’t been getting in. The prop shaft seems to be straight with no nicks because of this and we believe that the culprit was just crapped out seals either springs were worn or rubber was cracked.
Excellent! How many hours were on the motor before they leaked and do you run in fresh or salt water? (I have a 2004 Yamaha 90 that’s why I’m interested)
Hola colocaste los dos retenes con el mismo sentido, en este casi los dos impiden que entre agua hacia el interior de la pata pero no impide que salga aceite hacia afuera... lo correcto a mi parecer seria colocarlos entra sentido uno y otro...
could be thread depth so it grabs the rubber on the seals easier than a wood screw but we noticed that most people use them so honestly just followed along
Glad you found it useful. Decided to share our attempt at replacing it with others in hopes of possibly helping people who are also in the process of changing their seals. 👍
@@JKFishingYt well hooked up the air and it broke off the nozzle. I guess I dont have a leak. Must have been the drain plug gaskets they were rough. Now just the u joint bellows has some chaffing from the water line.
I can’t remember as to exactly why we did but there probably wasn’t an issue with it or else we would have mentioned it. Maybe just to save time as the video was already over 20 minutes long.
I'd be shy of using an air compressor. The Yamaha pressure test specs only 10 psi. Yours were leaking so bad it probably wouldn't matter; but, too much air pressure and you could blow other seals like the shaft seals. I did a 10 psi test and it held for about 15 seconds and then wouldn't hold any pressure again so 10 psi was enough to make a seal that wasn't leaking start to leak.
Yes so we keep getting a lot of comments on this and appreciate the way you brought it up. We made sure to watch the gauge on it and if I can remember correctly only tested up to 8psi both before and after replacing them. Interesting test though that you did shows how accurate their rating are and for only 15 seconds
No hiciste la misma prueba con el aire a presión cuando acabaste el trabajo. Así te habrías dado cuenta que estás colocando mal los retenes. Te vas a quedar sin aceite en cuanto salgas varias veces por efecto de la contracción dilatación de los materiales y del aceite.
Thank you for showing everyone how to screw up your lower unit. there are tools for that and the lower unit needs to be removed. How are you going to know ig the shift shaft seals and drive shaft seals are good? and an air compressor is way to much pressure to test the lower unit. All for views and absolutely no knowledge whatsoever .
Correct me if I am wrong, but did we not say this is our first time attempting this repair and that we are open to feedback? Don’t understand why people fail to hear that part. It’s a process of us attempting it ourselves and seeing what we need to fix or improve on in hopes that someone else may have done the same thing incorrectly.
Appreciate it man…comments like these that really make our day. Lots to learn ourselves but why not share our experiences with others and see what happens. We will definitely give your channel a look!
You must NOT score the shaft - as you said. But, you must NOT score the wall of the housing either or the new seals can leak. Pounding a screwdriver between the sealing ring and the housing is an absolute NO-NO. BTW, both seals face the same direction - the groove faces the prop.
Many things wrong with this video. Air compressor bad, screwdriver on outer wall (dent on wall or shaft will cause seal to leak). This DIY could cost you hundreds of dollars.
You will damage those seals driveshaft and prop if you go much over 10-15psi max so I would never do that air compressor thing again get a mighty vac. All seals face out on yamaha
What on gods green earth are you doing…. You forgot to label this as a joke. This has to be the worst diy ever how about you teach one good practice at all. You prob immediately blew out your seals with that stupid over pressure test. Screws to remove it!? Way to screw everything up in there. You should have had a professional do it because you’re just messing everything up. Those screws are messing everything else up too……
Love comments like these because the person making them has no background on why the video was made. We mention MULTIPLE times that we know we will make mistakes and that this this video is an ATTEMPT at fixing the problem ourselves. We made this in hopes of positive feedback from others because why not try it yourself. As for the pressure test, we don’t understand why viewers can’t comprehend the fact that although we used an air compressor, we made sure that the pressure was under the amount that the seals can handle. Any other problems you have with this video?
Dude get a damn life, instead of acting like a complete computer bully why not be a little more respectful about it and teach the right way, and by the way there is nothing wrong with using screws to remove seals if you take care not to damage the walls as I've done it countless times with motors and engines still in service today. My last question is if you're such a master marine mechanic why in God's earth are you watch a video on how to do the job. One of two things are going on here, either you don't know shit about it or you just like watching videos to in return trash others on the work they are doing.
At the least he is trying to show people how to get the job done. In the northeast, I simply gave up on so many of the idiots that call themselves mechanics for $120/ hour that just create additional problems or simply don't know what they are doing in the first place. I bought a Yamaha book and learned myself, along with reviewing a couple videos on the same topics and using common knowledge to do a repair. At least I know that I made the mistake, give the guy a break. That was 10 years ago on a 30-foot Grady with twin 250, s , still running strong.
I agree with you J F! Thanks!
For fear of nicking the shaft, I just thought I'd see how hard it would be to remove the retaining ring. So you bend the lock tab in, and then I was able to use a large screw driver and a rubber mallet to get it to go. Easy-peasy! The ring now has a nick in it from the screw driver, but that's a whole lot better than nicking the shaft. Disassembly and reassembly is super easy at that point. The seals are easy to remove without fear of damaging the shaft. Plus it gives an opportunity to inspect the gears and bearings. Just make sure the transmission is in gear when you do it so the shifter doesn't pull out. But if you are unsure about that, there is no need to remove the shaft at all. The retainer assembly should come right out once the retainer ring is removed.
Nice job guys! I just did my upper shaft seals, prop shaft seals, thermostats, water pump, timing belt and fuel hoses. Now I have to get it in the water for a sea trial.
Thanks, no better feeling than getting repairs done by yourself and getting out on the water to enjoy your work.
That's right! You were very thorough with your video! I just wanted to thank you for posting it.
Appreciate that…there is always more we can learn but it’s nice to put a video like this out there to see if it can help someone else!
Did you reinstalled the retainer spring?
great video, a note for everyone to remember is even if it looks good, doesn't hurt to test. The seals looked fine superficially but crapped out. Appearance isn't everything!
One note guys. Be carefull with pipe during fitting back, U should find pipe to press outer ring of the seal bcs it is hard part of it,inner part is vulnerable to metal pressing,also U can damage spring which hold inner ring of seal to prop shaft. Great work by the way!👏👏👏
Thanks for the advice! As we said earlier we are nowhere near experts and we love hear feedback like this that we can use further down the road 👍
Any pressure over 12 psi and if it wasn't leaking before it is now.
Never went over 10 psi with the compressor as we had a gauge on it
vacuum test also
You "can" remove those 2 seals like that if done very carefully. Do "not" use a compressor though to test. A cheap pressure tester is available and won't blow out a good seal. Also if you need to replace the main large seal you will 100% need the correct tools to access it.
Yes we have had that feedback. I’m future we will get the proper tools and do a proper pressure test. Thanks for your response
Butchers doing things incorrrectly
What I like about this video is that you found a likely culprit vs have it a mystery. If you hadn’t found line wrapped around the seal area looking for a bend shaft might be a good next step. Has the repair held up?
Repair has held up for the past two years lower unit oil is clean and water hasn’t been getting in. The prop shaft seems to be straight with no nicks because of this and we believe that the culprit was just crapped out seals either springs were worn or rubber was cracked.
Excellent! How many hours were on the motor before they leaked and do you run in fresh or salt water?
(I have a 2004 Yamaha 90 that’s why I’m interested)
@motorv8N we bought it used with about 1200 on it and are at about 1700 now
Thanks - I’m just climbing toward 400 hrs so barring actual damage hopefully I got some time before those seal wear out on me. Love the Yamahas.
@motorv8N yes Yamaha for us is the only engine we feel comfortable putting 2000 plus hours on just well built and not over engineered
How is using an adhesive going to affect being able to remove these seals next time? Did you just glue your seals in place?
Hola colocaste los dos retenes con el mismo sentido, en este casi los dos impiden que entre agua hacia el interior de la pata pero no impide que salga aceite hacia afuera... lo correcto a mi parecer seria colocarlos entra sentido uno y otro...
En el manual de taller de Yamaha van los dos en el mismo sentido.estan puestos correctamente
We're did the spring go
WHAT ABOUT THE NEW IMPELLER
I've always used 2 1/2 inch torx wood screws with my impact driver drill, why dose everyone use drywall screws? thread depth?
could be thread depth so it grabs the rubber on the seals easier than a wood screw but we noticed that most people use them so honestly just followed along
Very helpful video for DIY !Thanks!
Glad you found it useful. Decided to share our attempt at replacing it with others in hopes of possibly helping people who are also in the process of changing their seals. 👍
Con cuantas horas se cambian esos sellos? Gracias
Great idea on the air compressor. Just found milky oil in my mercruiser drive. Gonna try this.
Sounds good, good luck with the repair
@@JKFishingYt well hooked up the air and it broke off the nozzle. I guess I dont have a leak. Must have been the drain plug gaskets they were rough. Now just the u joint bellows has some chaffing from the water line.
Don't do it
Are the springs not needed? Did you just forget while making the video...just let us know please. Good video.
does ANYONE ever show how to get the yamaha bearing carrier out???
Don’t forget the anti-seize on the spindle of the propeller. Great job!
Lithium grease - antiseize is for bolt threads.
@Bob Beckstead Come on man are you being serious, nickle or copper anti seize is used for so much more than just bolts
@@lsumaniac2485 as a tool & Die maker, don’t use anti seize here
@@bobbeckstead8340anti seize on anything that can seize together and won't wash out
@@antho7475 Willful ignorance or mental laziness?
why did you cut out a part when taking out the second seal
was there an issue ?
I can’t remember as to exactly why we did but there probably wasn’t an issue with it or else we would have mentioned it. Maybe just to save time as the video was already over 20 minutes long.
@@JKFishingYt thanks the video was very helpful
I blew my seals the exact same way. Only 10 psi u suppose to put it but the inflator does it too fast.
What about shift and upper drive shaft
I'd be shy of using an air compressor. The Yamaha pressure test specs only 10 psi. Yours were leaking so bad it probably wouldn't matter; but, too much air pressure and you could blow other seals like the shaft seals. I did a 10 psi test and it held for about 15 seconds and then wouldn't hold any pressure again so 10 psi was enough to make a seal that wasn't leaking start to leak.
Yes so we keep getting a lot of comments on this and appreciate the way you brought it up. We made sure to watch the gauge on it and if I can remember correctly only tested up to 8psi both before and after replacing them. Interesting test though that you did shows how accurate their rating are and for only 15 seconds
No hiciste la misma prueba con el aire a presión cuando acabaste el trabajo. Así te habrías dado cuenta que estás colocando mal los retenes. Te vas a quedar sin aceite en cuanto salgas varias veces por efecto de la contracción dilatación de los materiales y del aceite.
Mírate el manual de taller y verás que están puestos correctamente
Cierto. Entonces no tiene sentido poner presión porque siempre saldrá aire por los dos retenes.
Has puesto el primer sello al revés. Si le metes presión a la cámara de engranajes verás que sale aceite porque lo has colocado mal.
Ogni molla è stata inserita nuovamente? Non si vede dal video
Thank you for showing everyone how to screw up your lower unit. there are tools for that and the lower unit needs to be removed. How are you going to know ig the shift shaft seals and drive shaft seals are good? and an air compressor is way to much pressure to test the lower unit. All for views and absolutely no knowledge whatsoever .
You or so right
He tried, but it's unsettling when someone does a tutorial when it's their first time and you can tell they are guessing.
Correct me if I am wrong, but did we not say this is our first time attempting this repair and that we are open to feedback? Don’t understand why people fail to hear that part. It’s a process of us attempting it ourselves and seeing what we need to fix or improve on in hopes that someone else may have done the same thing incorrectly.
@@JKFishingYt Dude I run a channel as well and no matter what you ever say or do you will have haters like the ones above
Appreciate it man…comments like these that really make our day. Lots to learn ourselves but why not share our experiences with others and see what happens. We will definitely give your channel a look!
great great great thanks
Hello friends
Can any one tell me the dimension of the seal
I really don’t know the dimensions. The specs for your motor should show it.
You must NOT score the shaft - as you said. But, you must NOT score the wall of the housing either or the new seals can leak. Pounding a screwdriver between the sealing ring and the housing is an absolute NO-NO. BTW, both seals face the same direction - the groove faces the prop.
I was thinking the same. What would be the diameter of those screws used for gasket removal?
I need change filter oil
Got a video coming soon on just that
Thanks for leaning from iu
Many things wrong with this video. Air compressor bad, screwdriver on outer wall (dent on wall or shaft will cause seal to leak). This DIY could cost you hundreds of dollars.
That's not a dry-wall screw. Dry-wall screws are much sharper and more tapered.
You will damage those seals driveshaft and prop if you go much over 10-15psi max so I would never do that air compressor thing again get a mighty vac. All seals face out on yamaha
Don’t forget to grease prop shaft.
You couldn’t hear a thing you said most of the video.
you can't increase your volume? lol
@@ezio8591 haha! Really!
that's dangerous
This guy does not know what hes doing!
That’s deff not the plug to pump the lower unit oil in lol u pump thru the bottom.
What on gods green earth are you doing…. You forgot to label this as a joke. This has to be the worst diy ever how about you teach one good practice at all. You prob immediately blew out your seals with that stupid over pressure test. Screws to remove it!? Way to screw everything up in there. You should have had a professional do it because you’re just messing everything up. Those screws are messing everything else up too……
Love comments like these because the person making them has no background on why the video was made. We mention MULTIPLE times that we know we will make mistakes and that this this video is an ATTEMPT at fixing the problem ourselves. We made this in hopes of positive feedback from others because why not try it yourself. As for the pressure test, we don’t understand why viewers can’t comprehend the fact that although we used an air compressor, we made sure that the pressure was under the amount that the seals can handle. Any other problems you have with this video?
Dude get a damn life, instead of acting like a complete computer bully why not be a little more respectful about it and teach the right way, and by the way there is nothing wrong with using screws to remove seals if you take care not to damage the walls as I've done it countless times with motors and engines still in service today. My last question is if you're such a master marine mechanic why in God's earth are you watch a video on how to do the job. One of two things are going on here, either you don't know shit about it or you just like watching videos to in return trash others on the work they are doing.