Just in case someone is doing this for the first time, REMEMBER to pump the brakes before taking off on a test run! otherwise you may roll out into the street, pull the brake lever at the stop sign as you normally would, and keep on going out into traffic! I know it sounds stupid, but it's easy to forget in the rush of finishing a job like this.
Jo. As a tip. If you' want to push the Pistons back easily move the Pistons to create a gap and then , bung the old pads back into the calliper before levering them apart with a screwdriver to push the Pistons further back into the calliper body. It won't matter if you damage the pad material as they will be replaced with the new ones. Saves skin, nails , less,effort etc
This video showed me how damn easy it actually is to change brake pads on a motorcycle! I just changed mine for the first time about 10 minutes ago! :D No more getting overcharged by a mechanic from now on, ha! Thanks Jojo!
Oh I know I was just making a joke . Actually they started off as X-Lite . I still have some old school parts........somewhere . Unfortunately the owner died and the son took over but he was more into cleaning products than components and so discontinued the brand and expanded their cleaning range Muc Off . I really hope they bring back X-Lite . Really shows true British Engineering (like Hope and Pace) .
Baron von grumble. Did doing this maintenance help with the "warped disc feeling". (July ard). I was told to clean my pots and it cured my warp feeling prob.
Lots of great ideas from people, some of them correct, some not so. The reason you don't push the caliper pistons back 'before' taking out the old pads is because at that point the pistons can have grit around them that then goes into the seals. The pads need to be removed and as much cleaning done as possible before pushing the pistons back, but once clean, the old pads can be re- fitted to use for pressing the pistons back in. The only main no-no that was committed was not using a torque wrench to do the brake bolts up. There is a correct torque and BMW specifies it for a good reason, if these bolts loosen and come out while you are riding, the next brake application can be interesting to say the least. Not worth risking on such a critical component. It's ok if it's just something like an indicator that will just fall off and be a nuisance, but not brakes. Many years ago when I had a Kawasaki Gpz 750 (that's how long ago), I had a brake bolt loosen and fall out. The second bolt immediately starts to work loose as the rotational torque of the brake rotor moves the caliper around. I was extremely lucky that it happened at low speed in stop start traffic, and I stopped to see what the clunking noise was every time I put the front brakes on (it was the whole caliper moving back and forward against the fork leg). That was many bikes ago, and long before I learn't to build race stuff properly, but trust me, if it's safety related, the torque setting is there for an important reason.
I usually use the back of the old brake pads to push the pistons back into the caliper evenly. One thing I'd mention to anyone doing this themselves for the first time would be, be very gentle if you decide to use a screwdriver to seat your new brake pads - you don't want to gouge chunks of your new pad out by accident!
Pretty decent vid, some people put antiseize/silicone grease on the pistons so they don't corrode. I would recommend using a torque wrench for caliper bolts if you're unsure of tightness simply for peace of mind and to stop bolts stripping (I've been there and it's a horrible feeling)
I've never done this myself - always had it done by a dealer. Might give it a try after watching this though as it doesn't seem like there's too much that can go wrong..! Still think I'd be nervous when I hit the brakes for the first time! One question (for anyone) - is there an easy way to tell when the pads need changing, or is it just the obvious "look at them"?
Some pads have grooves in them, when the pad wears down to the groove it's usually a good idea to change them. Rear brake pads sometimes have a chamfer on the back corner, once that's worn down, you should replace the pads. Also, if you're pushing the bike and can hear metal against metal - you really need to change your pads! Another tell tale sign of extreme pad wear would be scoring on the brake discs, but as long as you give them a look every few weeks and just use your common sense - if the pad material is only a millimetre thick for instance, buy some new pads.
A couple points, 1, those caliper bolts don't actually need alit of torque. You may want to use a torque wrench and the right force ? 2, don't whatever you do pump those "pots" out too much because they will pop right out !
Attagirl. BVG is right. Why pay someone to do it when it's easy ? And I can tell you straight - they don't take any care over it. A bit of cleaner & some compressed air if you're lucky.
Pro-tip! put in the two old brake pads after cleaning, as u squeeze in the brake cylinders. As the old pads are done, u can jam them apart with a screw driver, without destroying anything. The advantage of this is that all cylinders move in at the same time, this avoids cylinders from fucking about and from popping out.
sheesh, ms. jo was a gentle "tease" (hair joke intended). enjoy both your vlogs, etc. BVG/44 teef and yours as well, is the coolest. now recement those nails...
Even big boys use vinyl (not latex) gloves. Especially when using solvents. They are really cheap. I always have a box. They are really small to scrunch up into a small corner of the bike to take with you.
Just always make sure the friction material is facing inwards, suprising how many stories ive heard of people putting the pads in backwards, or one of them at least 😂
Good job. All I would say is that as far as I'm aware brake cleaner is pretty corrosive, if you leave it on anodised callipers it will start to lift the anodising! But the fancy brembo may be more resilient to it then my shitty stock callipers! But clean them well with the blue towels and try not to spray onto your fairings or wheels, just hold the calliper in some cloth so it catches any over spray! I tend to use a bit of copper slip on the lugs and back of the new pads as well, just so it slides within the calliper, that would be the silver grease shit equivalent that BMW use.
They're called pistons Baron old boy and they sit within the Caliper. OK? Oh, and I wouldn't recommend cleaning your fairings with Brake fluid either lol
The kudus she'll have now, to her friends: "What were you doing yesterday?" Well, I was changing brake pads on an HP4 BMW! Jaws drop to the floor, even better if she says that to the guys! Haha
Should have known that you were a TH-cam personality... Just to add something to look out for while you're working on the brakes... If I may add one thing to changing brakes, it is preferred to not touch the actual braking surface of the pad as the oils in your hands will linger long after. That in and of itself will have the potential to create wear problems and could show itself when you're braking under heavy, especially on a track. Other than that, Chris has you lined out perfectly! Applies for all disc brakes regardless of vehicle, but it can be more noticable on motorcycles.
Copper slip contact points like pad pins, but minimal amounts - IMHO nasty crap which shouldn't really go anywhere near your brakes. Never been a fan of using any lube on torqued critical fasteners, it can affect the correct application of torque. So good to learn basic maintenance skills, the amount of bikers I've come across that wouldn't even know how to adjust a chain (face palm)
Baron has no idea how durable good acrylics/gels are. You could back those bolts off with just your nails if you put the guns to work, no wrench needed.
Now this is true female empowerment.
I wish I could like this comment million times 💙
instaBlaster
Just in case someone is doing this for the first time, REMEMBER to pump the brakes before taking off on a test run! otherwise you may roll out into the street, pull the brake lever at the stop sign as you normally would, and keep on going out into traffic! I know it sounds stupid, but it's easy to forget in the rush of finishing a job like this.
Jo. As a tip. If you' want to push the Pistons back easily move the Pistons to create a gap and then , bung the old pads back into the calliper before levering them apart with a screwdriver to push the Pistons further back into the calliper body. It won't matter if you damage the pad material as they will be replaced with the new ones. Saves skin, nails , less,effort etc
Angry Dwarf - that’s exactly what I do as well. Work smarter, not harder!
As a total novice in bike maintenance, thanks for doing this video. That is amazingly simple.
This video showed me how damn easy it actually is to change brake pads on a motorcycle! I just changed mine for the first time about 10 minutes ago! :D No more getting overcharged by a mechanic from now on, ha! Thanks Jojo!
Did you use colgate or oral-b brake cleaner?
I think he was using Muc-Off but I've heard that increases chance of gum disease
Using bicycle products on a motorbike .Nice .
Seb K Mic off also do motorcycle products
Oh I know I was just making a joke . Actually they started off as X-Lite . I still have some old school parts........somewhere . Unfortunately the owner died and the son took over but he was more into cleaning products than components and so discontinued the brand and expanded their cleaning range Muc Off . I really hope they bring back X-Lite . Really shows true British Engineering (like Hope and Pace) .
Baron von grumble. Did doing this maintenance help with the "warped disc feeling". (July ard). I was told to clean my pots and it cured my warp feeling prob.
Lots of great ideas from people, some of them correct, some not so. The reason you don't push the caliper pistons back 'before' taking out the old pads is because at that point the pistons can have grit around them that then goes into the seals. The pads need to be removed and as much cleaning done as possible before pushing the pistons back, but once clean, the old pads can be re- fitted to use for pressing the pistons back in. The only main no-no that was committed was not using a torque wrench to do the brake bolts up. There is a correct torque and BMW specifies it for a good reason, if these bolts loosen and come out while you are riding, the next brake application can be interesting to say the least. Not worth risking on such a critical component. It's ok if it's just something like an indicator that will just fall off and be a nuisance, but not brakes. Many years ago when I had a Kawasaki Gpz 750 (that's how long ago), I had a brake bolt loosen and fall out. The second bolt immediately starts to work loose as the rotational torque of the brake rotor moves the caliper around. I was extremely lucky that it happened at low speed in stop start traffic, and I stopped to see what the clunking noise was every time I put the front brakes on (it was the whole caliper moving back and forward against the fork leg). That was many bikes ago, and long before I learn't to build race stuff properly, but trust me, if it's safety related, the torque setting is there for an important reason.
congratulations, you've just learned how to save yourself 2 hours of labour costs at the dealers :)
What radio station is that?
was very helpful actually. seeing how easy it was. won't be so worried when I try and change mine
Would you put a bit of copper grease on the pistons before reassembling?
Thank you for this, a job I would normally pay for I would now take on myself, looks easy enough.
Awesome video, good to see both of you guys 👍
I usually use the back of the old brake pads to push the pistons back into the caliper evenly. One thing I'd mention to anyone doing this themselves for the first time would be, be very gentle if you decide to use a screwdriver to seat your new brake pads - you don't want to gouge chunks of your new pad out by accident!
Pretty decent vid, some people put antiseize/silicone grease on the pistons so they don't corrode. I would recommend using a torque wrench for caliper bolts if you're unsure of tightness simply for peace of mind and to stop bolts stripping (I've been there and it's a horrible feeling)
Whats this faffery?
Knowing now how good looking you both are this video suddenly just got a different vibe, good stuff
THE BARON IS HITTING UP ON OTHER CHICKS JO!!!
What ya mean?
+Dylan Martin chicks..... chickens
i apologise for my slowness haha
What about the fact that they all run away and hide? Is that what you mean to say? ;)
so you can pump the brake if there are no pads in? and just push the pots back in?
Dawn dish soap works great for cleaning the calipers also👍
Brad Davis id just get some proper brake cleaner if I were you
I hope it's good for something because it will make your dish sponge smell like zombie ball bags.
loved the kraftwork whilst doing ze german brakes.shes looking good.
all bike's are this same difficult?
Can you use Simple Green instead of brake cleaner?
Epic sounds - is that the radio?
No copper grease on the sliders of the pads???
Intersting that the pads just slip out of gthose calipers - most of what I've worked on the calipers are like car ones and you have slider pins...
Brembo and bmw for ya :P
radial callipers - there had to be an advantage
Definitely different calipers on my '15 1krr. www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1000rr-hp4-do-yourself/3950-diy-front-brake-pads.html
@@nathanwiens108 yup HP4 had different calipers
How much these brake pads cost? You get them from Bmw or they are aftermarket? Bmw in Greece charges them for 105 euro per caliper
Is the 2013 zx10 the same way?
What did he mean by "piles" while braking? I'm trouble shooting ATM.
BvG, JoJo, Motorbikes anddddd Morrissey playing in the background…what a vid!
Nice 80's tunes!!! Love it
Within few miles you brake pads gone how many miles done?
Nice vid of a lovely couple doing maintenance, you need to reorientate the pads so the thicker part is lower on all 4 though.
great video, just about to clean the calipers and change pads on my Tuono Factory for the first time :)) thanks!
That was a great video way to go that hp4 looks amazing
I've never done this myself - always had it done by a dealer. Might give it a try after watching this though as it doesn't seem like there's too much that can go wrong..! Still think I'd be nervous when I hit the brakes for the first time! One question (for anyone) - is there an easy way to tell when the pads need changing, or is it just the obvious "look at them"?
Yeh just look at them dude
Some pads have grooves in them, when the pad wears down to the groove it's usually a good idea to change them. Rear brake pads sometimes have a chamfer on the back corner, once that's worn down, you should replace the pads. Also, if you're pushing the bike and can hear metal against metal - you really need to change your pads! Another tell tale sign of extreme pad wear would be scoring on the brake discs, but as long as you give them a look every few weeks and just use your common sense - if the pad material is only a millimetre thick for instance, buy some new pads.
Top job! Good idea to clean the pistons like that! I learn something new every day! :)
Love your work, good to learn new skills, enjoy
Good learning video. Thanks for posting. Hey, is he your mate?
Those bolts should probably be torqued to spec!! Great video though :)
Do you wear 2XL gloves with those nails..?
I look like an absolute psycho at the end, but I was just excited to learn just how easy it is to do! ;)
That was the look of love ..
+Brian Jones agreed
Yes a bit psycho..
Psycho? As pleased as punch I'd say. Good on you lass, you did great. :)
The overly attached gf meme just got a new face
Baron Von Grumble has beautiful nails
Good job girl, well done, great effort.
I like the music, Duran Duran's 'the reflex'.
I liked that you did it yourself!
merci super petite vidéo!!!tank you!!!
those 80s tunes! love
Talking Heads, Great! Same as is it ever was..... ;>)
lol this helped me relax and fall asleep.
When your disk slides into the slot. Deep satisfaction.
Almost 10K JOJO!
A couple points,
1, those caliper bolts don't actually need alit of torque. You may want to use a torque wrench and the right force ?
2, don't whatever you do pump those "pots" out too much because they will pop right out !
Attagirl. BVG is right. Why pay someone to do it when it's easy ? And I can tell you straight - they don't take any care over it. A bit of cleaner & some compressed air if you're lucky.
Great guys
Is this an exclusive - The Baron listens to Radio 2! :) You make that change look easy girl! :)
Pro-tip! put in the two old brake pads after cleaning, as u squeeze in the brake cylinders. As the old pads are done, u can jam them apart with a screw driver, without destroying anything. The advantage of this is that all cylinders move in at the same time, this avoids cylinders from fucking about and from popping out.
Love the music
sheesh, ms. jo was a gentle "tease" (hair joke intended). enjoy both your vlogs, etc. BVG/44 teef and yours as well, is the coolest. now recement those nails...
ideal will give that a go when the time comes - what's the worst that could happen?? 😉 isn't there sum tips from rocky to help catch those chickens?
Even big boys use vinyl (not latex) gloves. Especially when using solvents. They are really cheap. I always have a box. They are really small to scrunch up into a small corner of the bike to take with you.
duuude. the brake cleaner on your rims !!!?
Just always make sure the friction material is facing inwards, suprising how many stories ive heard of people putting the pads in backwards, or one of them at least 😂
Background music was the best!!
would have thought bm would have designed it so pads could be extracted with calliper in place
That would have the side affect of people not cleaning their pistons
So, are you two together?
Damn my bikes got drum brakes :(
Barons radio's playing some banging tunes!
Good job. All I would say is that as far as I'm aware brake cleaner is pretty corrosive, if you leave it on anodised callipers it will start to lift the anodising! But the fancy brembo may be more resilient to it then my shitty stock callipers! But clean them well with the blue towels and try not to spray onto your fairings or wheels, just hold the calliper in some cloth so it catches any over spray! I tend to use a bit of copper slip on the lugs and back of the new pads as well, just so it slides within the calliper, that would be the silver grease shit equivalent that BMW use.
pots back into callipers not t'other way round !
Letting those brembos hang off the brake line alone? O_o
This video could have been so much filthier. She is a keeper. Well done guys.
Your supposed to use new Bolts per owners manual. Seems ridiculous but its what they want!! Makes sense, those bolts are stressed
A complete waste of money, I bet BMW want at least £100 for those 4 bolts. I've been track riding for years and have never replaced a caliper bolt.
you can use a C-clamp to get those brake pistons down. It's so easy that way a 4 year old could do it!!
So much innuendo!
They're called pistons Baron old boy and they sit within the Caliper. OK? Oh, and I wouldn't recommend cleaning your fairings with Brake fluid either lol
You shouldn't leave the caliber to hang from the brake line like that and leave its weight to dangle along.
Omg, just wondering why do you guys have chickens at home? 😊 is it for the free eggs? 👍😉🍺 cheers.
bit of copper grease behind the pads helps stop squealing
I wouldn’t have thought that the latest brembos would require copper slip.
#goals
Good job, now if only valve adjustments were just as easy
Get a Moto Guzzi or a BMW boxer. Just did my valves. Took 20 minutes.
very nice music on the background xD :)
"Baron von Grumble" - new nickname for my dad thanks! Better than calling him Cobra
genuinely laughed out loud at the sight of baron chasing chickens
informative vid and humourous with the addition of chickens.
The kudus she'll have now, to her friends: "What were you doing yesterday?" Well, I was changing brake pads on an HP4 BMW! Jaws drop to the floor, even better if she says that to the guys! Haha
I'm amazed how many people don't know how to do this to be honest...
Chasing chickens.lol.
"ohhh, its going in" 😂😂😂
Should have known that you were a TH-cam personality...
Just to add something to look out for while you're working on the brakes... If I may add one thing to changing brakes, it is preferred to not touch the actual braking surface of the pad as the oils in your hands will linger long after. That in and of itself will have the potential to create wear problems and could show itself when you're braking under heavy, especially on a track. Other than that, Chris has you lined out perfectly!
Applies for all disc brakes regardless of vehicle, but it can be more noticable on motorcycles.
GLOVES!
+Dan Kidd NO!
Torque wrenches!
Bitch mittens
Isn't brake dust poisonous?
@@mrgreen9388 If you eat it, yes.
Copper slip contact points like pad pins, but minimal amounts - IMHO nasty crap which shouldn't really go anywhere near your brakes. Never been a fan of using any lube on torqued critical fasteners, it can affect the correct application of torque. So good to learn basic maintenance skills, the amount of bikers I've come across that wouldn't even know how to adjust a chain (face palm)
Baron von bloody grumbleeeee
Bloody impressive with those fancy nails on 😂😂😂
Baron has no idea how durable good acrylics/gels are. You could back those bolts off with just your nails if you put the guns to work, no wrench needed.
Baron von Goals
Baron Von Balboa - Chasing chickens :-)
I would never use a screwdriver to push the pads apart.... a cheap plastic trim tool is much safer
Duran duran
Baron Von Mechanic. I like it :) Never seen him get dirty like this
don't pump too far in case the pistons pop right out!
He'll have you stripping down the engine in no time at all :-P