First Fitting of my First Bespoke Suit from a U.S. Tailor! Paolo Martorano Bespoke | Kirby Allison
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2023
- In today’s video, New York bespoke tailor Paolo Martorano visits Kirby for the first fitting of his new bespoke suit. Known for his meticulous craftsmanship, Paolo masterfully merges traditional British and American tailoring methods with contemporary elements, crafting suits that are both timeless and modern. Serving a diverse clientele across the United States, Paolo has garnered a reputation for his unparalleled attention to detail, upholding the esteemed values of quality, craftsmanship, and tradition in each garment he creates.
During this captivating fitting, we delve into the minutiae that set a bespoke suit in a class of its own-from the graceful roll of the lapel and the flawless drape of the fabric to the precision of each individual stitch. It's the multiple fittings and scrupulous attention to detail that give a bespoke suit its unparalleled integrity, something that both Kirby and Paolo hold in the highest regard. Join us as we take you on a sartorial journey, offering an intimate glimpse into the old-world traditions and contemporary innovations that contribute to the making of a truly timeless garment.
🗓 Paolo travels extensively to meet clients across the United States, including cities like Boston, San Francisco, Beverly Hills, Dallas, Houston, Austin, and Palm Beach.
🔍 Learn More about Paolo Martorano Bespoke
🔸 Website: www.paolostyle.com
🔸 Instagram: @paolomartoranobespoke
🔸 Instagram: @pm_ny
🎬 Watch the Other Videos in this Series
1️⃣ • The New Prince of New ...
2️⃣ • First Fitting of my Fi...
🧵 Details on Kirby's Suit:
🪡 Smith Woolens Finmeresco cloth No.4111
🪡 Single breasted, 4” Notch lapels, side vents
🪡 Flap and ticket
🪡 Waistcoat is “5 show 6” button front, 4 welt pockets
🪡 Trouser is with two forward pleats
🔍 Learn More about Paolo Martorano Bespoke
🔸 Website: www.paolostyle.com
🔸 Instagram: @paolomartoranobespoke
#kirbyallison #bespoke #tailoring
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I don't think many people really grasp how incredible this level of quality and production is. I greatly enjoy every video you and your crew put out.
Wow, thank you! The editing team does absolutely fantastic work! Wait until you see Cuba!!
Kirby's face every-time a tailor mentions his sloping shoulders is priceless.
😂
🤭 haha
It’s like Groundhog Day at home with my wife… reminding me of everything I haven’t done… lol.
Hes born on 1 april xd
@kirbyallison you look fine! A handsome silhouette! Not everyone needs a square cut folk.
If it's a personal thing, I understand, as I have many complaints of how the goddess built me.
But you are a fine build without any modification, Kirby.
He looks like if Al Capone was reincarnated into a nice New York Tailor
I loved Paolo's explanations in this video. He really takes you through the whole process and shares his personal approach to the art.
Sadly a lot of it is just salesspeak for "I am not a tailor"
@@teekue in which parts precisely does this happen?
The entire “you have to be a bespoke tailor in order to know what you doing” is actually an antiquated #menswear conceit. It is simply not the case. What’s important is that the “front of house” knows how to fit garments and communicate adjustments back to the tailors. This is precisely where Paolo excels.
@@kirbyallison you are right that you don't have to be a bespoke tailor to fit garments but in this case a lot of people feel that while he obviously knows how to fit people compared to your Savile row fittings this fit pales in comparison.
Good job not talkning over Paulo. I'm impressed by his methodical approach. Calming deamenor helps with keeping me focused.
Couldn’t agree more! He is very meticulous, for sure!
Kirby, I personally don’t own a Bespoke suit. I do own made to measure. I thoroughly enjoyed this video! Thank you for taking the time to go deep into how this works and looks!
congrats on 700k, Kirby.
well on your way to 1 million subscribers
I must say Kirby that suit Mr Paulo is wearing is just jaw dropping, what a drape, what style... AWSOME ✌️ 😊
And... nothing less than a Cartier on the wrist, white gold matching the suit chief.... Dapper, very Dapper!! 😂😂❤❤
He knows how to dress! As I would expect!
It's so funny hearing Kirby ask these questions just for the purpose of the video, when we all know that as a guy who owns $80K+ worth of bespoke suits he knows damn well how all of this process works 😂
True, although Kirby knows that someone might be watching one of his videos for the first time and might not be seasoned subscribers like us!
Probably closer to 200k of suits at this point. 😂
@@teekue Yeah, seriously, and also considering he paid for Eddie's suit and shirts.
@@thechairman74 add onto that the price of his bespoke shoes where one pair easily costs 7-8k as well. 😀
@@teekue Yeah, that too.
Kirby, what happened to the shoes Daniel Wegan was making for you ?
Wildly more informative than the previous incarnations! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Looks like a fantastic start. Fingers crossed crossed for a superb final fitting
Great video Kirby. Thank you.
Another GREAT video Kirby. I love the small details of a bespoke fitting and Paolo describes it beautifully.
Another superb video! 👌🏽💯 Kudos to Kirby and Paolo!
I learned so much here! I thought that all of Kirby's videos had already schooled me completely. Boy, was I wrong!
15:55 - Sounds good! When I was younger this wouldn't have made as much sense due to greater impatience and ignorance. To hear a Master Tailor sharing about how ideas change throughout the process is an encouragement to stay open-minded in creativity while working with the fundamentals. Thank you for sharing your perspective, Paolo. Thank you for the upload, Kirby.
I love the quick turnaround of the video series. I'm really excited to see the final result. I love seeing this process. I learned a few new thing...e.g. his explanation about the canvas was interesting as was the talk about "balance" and the shoulder adjustment. Very informative.
Also congrats on 700k subs!
Thank you!!
Great segment. I learned a great deal listening to the explanations regarding all of the adjustments.
it could sound a little bit pretentious for most of people, but this series expose such craftsmanship in an incredible way. As well as the explanation it’s great. This content could also be used as a content for English as a foreign language teaching, due to the level of engaging and the clarity and beauty of explanation. when something connects with you, that makes the difference. Everything flows, that’s a metaphorical explanation of bespoke tailoring. The patterns of fabric flows graciously and easy. Thanks Kirby. Ones aging I promt you for coming to Spain Ribera del Duero for savoury of world class wine craftsmanship. Thanks
It's a good point this is really the only thing you can completely change and customize to your taste, what an experience
This tailor is extremely knowledgeable. Look forward to the final suit.
Best video yet Kirby. Thanks so much. Because of Kirby I just got my first pair of Lobb shoes, and This tailor will get my first bespoke suit. I have the same shoulder problem from bad posture (the Jerry Orbach posture), so it will be interesting to see the final look of the coat to see if it mitigates any of the sad/endearing nature of this posture. It is so rare that anyone so readily gives advice so many of the finer things in life. We are lucky to have Kirby (and he is lucky to have us, because he can go about his life willy nilly doing his favourite things, and get huge sums put into his bank account just because he brings a camera crew with him (and because he is a blue blood who learned all this stuff over a period of 40 years). If anyone asks what his job is, he can say I am working right now, testing these new bespoke John Lobbs, this Cuban Cigar, this Saville Row suit, and on weekends my brother can take me for rides in the f16 fighter jet, and that will be work too if they allow the cameras to shoot it....
Another great video, and another really interesting expert with a love for his craft
Beautiful. Great tailor.
Looking forward to the final fitting & the delivery.
Love the three piece.
With all due respect. On another note, does anyone else feel this gentleman could portray Al Capone in a movie? Maybe it’s just me but I feel he looks very familiar to him. 🤷🏻♂️😂
I was thinking the same thing!
I agree!
It is Capone. Trying to “go legit”. 😂😂
This guy owns the daily wire.
I like this tailor humble and doesn’t come off as too much chill dude
Kirby, I think you might regret having so much back suppression. You have an "unusual" gait and your seat protrudes when you walk. This protrusion is exacerbated with this degree of back suppression. I would loosen that up a little imo.
what
I though TH-cam translates foreign languages.
Such a cool intro!
700k subs Well done Kirby.
is the alan flusser pin strip not a American bespoke suit?
loved the video. love all of them..
‘garment’ almost beat ‘bespoke’ for most said word 😂
Kirby is fascinated by this lol
Paolo Row is better than going to England.. Paolo is best tailor period.
Ive seen this mans work ,he makes a really nice suits...
Ooowww this is a goodie kirby... looking suave! Mate
Excellent
When did the suit style change from the lapels interfacing higher up on the chest to the current norm where they meet more in the middle of the body (I hope that makes sense)?
well done, Paolo! while I still disagree with calling Paolo a "tailor," I really enjoy his extensive fitting. Though many of the steps are just "for show" that's what the deep pockets customers are paying for anyway, kudos to him for this, too.
On another note, Kirby looking at another navy suit and saying "I don't have anything like this" made me giggle. He has graduated from gray to navy, a big step for sure!!😂
lol. Nick Foulkes would be proud! Haha.
Some tailor can really take over in the US if they can put together a plan and great clothes!
Need to make an updated wardrobe video, looking sharp!
I don't need another suit at the moment.... but I would like to get fitted for one. The process is great!
His Cartier tank is gorgeous and very appropriate.
Kirby, you should do a video with Leonard Logsdail, that would be interesting to watch
I wonder if the bespoke tailors use Australian Merino wool as their "go to" wool for their high end suits?
Perfect video like always Kirby. I just can´t believe, what the tailor said. Men really come visit him wearing T-shirts? Do these men have at least some intelligence ? If you go to buy a really expensive suit, that is so obvious, you got to be wearing a suit, since measurements are best made on the type of garment, you are going to wear. Well, Kirby is smart guy and knows, what he is doing. By the way, I didn´t know this tailor before, so it´s something new for me. Again, well done!
Congratulations on breaking the 700,000 subscriber level Black tie livestream coming up !?!
Kirby, great channel. Have you had a suit made at Oxxford Clothiers in Chicago?
THIS GUY IS GOOD MATE! 👍 👌 you can tell by the confidence in speak that this gentleman is a master of his trade, i love it, and a whisky with him would be great chat! 😊😊😊
1 shot every time Kirby says: one of the things that I love about ........
A sip for every time something's an honour, a sip every time he couldn't be more excited...
Great Video!!! You need to look into Martinez’s custom clothier in Baton Rouge La !! I think you would love it Kirby
How regrettable that the USA doesn’t have a tradition of bespoke tailoring/shirt making/shoe making/underwear making/dressing gown making and the like. Thank goodness for the UK.
Just ask yourselves.....do I currently purchase any goods from Walmart or Amazon? ahh there's your answer why. America is all about price not quality.
@@rumcayislandcaribbean8546I think that’s a reflection of modern society in general not just specific to the US.
The USA is only two centuries old. The other tailoring countries have many centuries on that.
@@XboxTheBeatboxer It’s a culture thing; America likes things immediately; off the shelf; in a hurry. America doesn’t do deferred gratification.
Tell that to the Germans@@kiely4561
Kirby I want to commend you so much on how you've listened to your viewers.
is there anything more relaxing than watching kirby get rubbed down and fitted by another well-groomed man
Hmm, interesting. When I watch first fittings in the UK, the tailor has to make barely any adjustments. Here though, the suit looks like a WW2 map. I don’t know why but that makes me doubt the tailors abilities.
But he is not a tailor… that’s the point. In the previous episode with the details of his previous employment he showed he is “a front of shop man”. Very personable and thoroughly smart but he has not trained as a tailor. I feel sorry for the other US tailors who are missing out
@@monochromebluess What are they missing out? Genuine question.
@@monkeypawismThis program is promoting a non tailor who is based in the US. Yes the company has tailors clearly who are doing the back end work - the cutter etc etc. Why am I sorry ? Now there are a number of young hungry and talented United States based “real tailors” (ie) ones that have spend years and their money learning the craft. Why not promote these guys on Kirby’s showing a real tailor ?
I think KA explained this on his last video with Paulo but some tailors are great at design but not at listening…Paulo is the intermediate in that he can listen to the customer needs and translate that for the tailor
@@monochromebluess I understand the concern. I support your POV. I was merely commenting to KA that in this video at least he didn't talk over the guest, something he often does to much annoyance. But, do you think the American tailors appreciate having work fed to them via this middle-man? Perhaps the tailors have no skill to self-promote (something that could be learned) or have the time. This is a tough and interesting situation.
Bespoke counter over 9000.
There's no way that could be right!
Good morning. Which luxurious hotel is near Davidoff London and this tailor shop?
He looks just like Al Capone!
What’s the fabric for this suit?
Will this series have new videos?
I feel like this tailor makes suits for mob bosses
Do these bosses get upset when he ignores all the measures so he can use his formulas to cut parachute pants? He will be wearing concrete swimming trunks by noon tomorrow. Haha.
Im surprised the tailor never asks you to sit down to see how things feel during the fitting.
American Italo-NY style makes everything much more theatrical.
You say this is your first American made bespoke suit? What about Chris Despos, and Eric Jensen before he was with Galo? They are American's making in America.
It’s the first fitting for this suit. Not his first suit.
@@zerahmot1787I am trying to understand why the title implies this is his first suit with an American tailor. He has had many suits made by American tailors. I understand it’s his first suit with this tailoring brand.
@@asherarnold5884 Oh I missed the second "first" in the title. Yeah that is weird.
Ok who makes a better bespoke suite, English or USA?
If we only had this as a reference then in 100/100 cases England wins.
The man being interviewed kept referring to the tailor he works with. Then who is the man being interviewed, the man that just takes the measurements? What’s the difference between the tailor who wasn’t in the video who does the sewing, and the man being interviewed who takes the measurements ?
Also, when they kept saying “sewn by hand”, does that mean the tailor
doesn’t use a sewing machine at all?
As a Canadian, I can go to Cuba and get custom cigars 😮
Another enjoyable show. It’s not often that a guest is so personable yet businesslike but he pulls it off. However he is not a tailor. When I review the suit on the show I can’t help but compare it to previous suit shows from other tailors and sadly the quality of this three piece suit does not stand up well. The “front man” ( forgive this whimsy comment ) is a charming chap with endless retail experience but none in tailoring. It’s as if he was given a intensive two week course in how to use chalk and create “ tailor marking”. Mind you I think most of us as Kirby’s viewers after all the various tailor shows on the channel could get away with major flim flam on this area !! Anyway back to the suit. The measurements were taken by a non tailor on the opening show so it’s no wonder every part of the three piece suit is out of kilter. The trousers have been cut too low in the waist. The trousers are to loose and baggy and too long. The waistcoat collar needs major revisions to fit and the front and back lengths, hopefully they can be fixed by the cutter and the rest of the tailoring team. As for the jacket - my initial reaction is that the length is to short all around. Certainly at the front. No idea what the idea of the grid mark area on the shoulder was all about. I think the tailor showed him the first part of the trick but not the second. Instead it became - Let’s just pin the cloth areas together on the shoulder and rip of the sleeve ! It also seemed far to tight at the rear of the jacket. I know it was pinned cloth to cloth together at the front which does reduce the waist width. But why do that surely you fit it as if the button was fitted. The main issue is I think that he mentioned they have a template formula to help initially design the suit. Clearly it’s not working ! And how is that then bespoke to the individual. I look forward to part three ….
A lot of theatrics with no real value but to entertain. I would rather have a tailor on site...
Fullness
Let's see Paul Allen's suit fitting.
I need myself a custom suit
When the angle of the camera showed your back against the cream drape of the curtain, the suppression at the back was far too much - overall I feel its far too sculptured to your body and there will be little natural drape. Hopefully the second fitting will get this sorted out, but too many points have been changed this time I feel.
USA! USA! USA!
Why dont you get one of those tweed suits the greenish ones the same one that tom hardy had on playing ron kray in the movie legend. And you can give us more detals about it
the front of the coat is riding up
Let the back out a bit, bit tight imo
Suppose I don't like shoulder pads? Will the tailor still make a suit for me?
56:58😭😭😭😭
Subjective!
A suit that expensive must also have jet packs and lasers beams attached to it too.
I doubt you see Kirby at Walmart.
YOUR ON FIRE ARSON ARSON ARRRRRRRRRRRR...... bye
20:04 why doesn’t the tailor at this point have bend over, lift his knee, sit down, etc… to see how fate the pant leg ride up, expand/ contort. To see how much needs to be taken off?
Bespoke suits start from $2500 dollars for a standard suit and take months to prepare so people must be really enthusiastic.
They spend over two thousand dollars and wait almost 6 months for the final product.
It does not matter which tailor you go to.
The process is the same.
.
It is not. As you can see Paolo is not a tailor and it shows. It's only always the same if you say that the end result is that you get a suit.
@@teekue Ok good. point.
Tailoring takes time and they have more to do. Yes it takes some time and it is expensive however if you take care of it it will be there for 10 years or more. And it fist you better than a off the rack suit.
@@martijnvangammeren1868 oh yes, absolutely. I meant that going bespoke does not always mean the same process and or result. In this case you pay a lot for basically a MtM suit made by a tailor. But on the other hand you can get a bespoke suit without a premade pattern for far far less. Which is the basic difference I meant to convey.
@@martijnvangammeren1868Agreed.
But did he establish his chest size? What if his suit for... war doesn't fit 🙃
jacket too short
gg
Bespoke waistcoats don’t need a belt, it’s irrelevant. Plus not having details like matching waistcoat pleats with the trouser pleats would be another nice detail that he’s not offering, he moved passed the armholes fit like nothing. I’ve see more attention to detail from other tailors, I’m not too sure about this one.
100% agree. There was nothing right about this suit and fitting.
Bla bla bla bla...if you're better than him do your own business and do it better until then calm down
I love how its the first American tailor and its the first over weight tailor on the channel
No offense to any American but, the British have adopted Kirby, he is quintessential British and in particular an English Gentlemen. Kirby is pure historical class.
Lear. So much today about fitting
Hi Kirby - I'm an admirer of your work and find much of the content exceptional and I normally love your videos. However, this one was hard to watch. While Paolo seems like a nice person and a wonderful story teller and sales person, he's most definitely not a tailor and should not be conducting these fittings. At this price point only a property trained master tailor should be entrusted with this responsibility. Paolo's lack of understanding is obvious throughout the fitting and almost cringe-inducing on several occasions. His lack of experience is also obvious in the look of the suit. The trousers are excessively baggy, the jacket is way too short while the suppression is extreme. And then Paolo proceeding to subtly blame rules of thumb for relative proportions to explain this ill-fitting garment was simply disingenuous. Using those massive cutting shears to remove the baste stitching or the tape to evaluate the balance....wow....this would be comical if he wasn't charging the equivalent of a small car for his suits. Ironically enough, the balance on his own jacket was too short and the lapel lacked that beautiful role typical of a bespoke garment. Ultimately, Paolo is a great businessman that figured out how to sell suits starting at 8-10k but he's not a tailor.
That was a joy to read. Nice
Are you a tailor?
The suit looks too tight at the mo, like a straight jacket on Kirby
The thing is in the U.S. people wear so much fast fashion junk and jeans sneakers it’s hard to have Rowe like satires or tailors or shoe makers. Everything is so mass produced.
His own suit doesn't sit right, it's definitely not a Saville Row suit.
There's an awful lot of talking going on here .....
Watched the videos from Kent and haste, the word bespoke is overused, is diminishes it's meaning to use it in every single sentence