Paolo! Il Megliore! Commendatore. Thanks for sharing Kirby! Happy that youre showcasing tailors that arent just from The Row. Many talents that are overlooked!
It would be very out of place on the row, pretty low calibre so far. Mind you, he is NOT a tailor and said so himself Regardless, great to see American bespoke getting a chance to show
I just mentioned on Instagram how envious I used to be of women's fashion just a few short years ago. The variety of style and quality in almost any major city is incredible. Before I moved to New York City. Here in NYC there are so many great options for men. Especially with shoes. If a great shoe company is going to open a U.S. store, it's going to be in New York City. But for things like shirts and suits, you have to still have to dig a little deeper. There's lots in NYC. But they just don't market themselves like shoe companies do. I get it. Tough business. So I appreciate people like Kirby showcasing the great local talent here. While out of my budget range (for now), I have places to visit when the time comes. Thank you and keep up the great work!
I have to assume that there are some older, wiser, and more experienced tailors behind this guy. He's the face of the brand. I'm not implying that he doesn't know anything. But, why is their product more expensive than the top bespoke tailors of London?
New York tailoring, in general, has always been more expensive than even Savile Row in London. Not totally sure on the drivers of this. Paolo doesn't represent himself as a tailor. He does the fittings and is very talented at this. But, yes, he has an exceptional team of tailors behind him doing the actual work on the garments that he has built.
Tailoring is often very dependent on location. NYC is one of the most expensive places in the world while in small Italian towns or Japan you can find bespoke for way less but you have to know where to look.
One thing he says is: the more fittings you do the better it will be. I probably agree up to a point. Because sometimes if you do multiple fittings some tailors (or frontmen) think that something has to be changed even though you're already at the finish line. And then the outcome will be worse. Some tailors have great eyes and are at 95, hell maybe even 99% with one fitting, others need three, four, even five fittings to get an only acceptable result.
One more thing: he talks about using rock of eye which I think is quite ironic. Tailors will talk about it quite a bit that this is a skill that you have to acquire and train during, you know, learning and doing tailoring. And Paolo was the one who told us in full length how he never got to know any tailoring skills.
Looks good.....but chalk and cheese compared to kent and haste.....amazing how much difference there is between two bespoke fits......this suit looks good, but not special....The kent and haste suit looks like you were born into it....Fit was perfect.... I take it this is also a lot less cost wise......
This is one of the best tailors I have ever seen, he has amazing details especially in jackets, I hope to have a suit tailored by him one day.. Thanks Kirby ❤
I am sure this will be a fine suit. Per Paolo's web site, a 2-piece suit comes with a price tag of $7500. I am sure it is worth every penny. There does seem to be a wide range of pricing in this segment, even in NYC.
Hi Kirby, I started wondering something and since you're in the business of selling coat hangers, I wonder why no one ever thought of making bespoke hangers. I mean, you're already spending an arm and a leg on a suit, it can't cost much more to find someone to carve out a shoulder "last" to make a hanger that fits your jacket perfectly. The tailor is already taking your measurements precisely anyway. Since there's the idea of the shoe last, why not a jacket last?
Kirby how can i connect with you I’ve found something unbelievable, A master tailor who does everything in house measurements pattern cutting pressing everything everything PICK STITCHING un real stuff at prices starting UNDER 1000 US in Florida Imagine a mini series on it and comparing that suit to your others your viewers who want to get into bespoke tailoring can certainly do it at this price point This is a true game changer
I have bespoke suits from Italy at a similar price point. A comparison is interesting. You can see that there are cut corners, still 100% handwork and pattern drafting but don't expect a rubinacci at this price point because some corners have to be cut.
Sounds too good to be true... you're into the fabric for almost $1,000 on a nice suit. Don't know how someone can make it by hand for that price point and not starve to death...
Every time Kirby has a fitting, all the issues are down that right side, the left side seems to be pretty well spot-on from day 1, a recurring theme. That big drop right always throws the jackets off kilter somewhat.
Honestly the cut of Paolo is incredible! True craftsmanship very balanced and masculine with a room for moves really like it ! Amazing amazing amazing, wish I could afford one :)!
Another exceptional video Kirby, Paolo’s talent is really on full display here! I must say the DB suit you are wearing is exquisite, and with glimpses of your Chopard perpetual calendar with the bespoke Jean Rousseau watch straps is a delightful pairing.
Mr allison pls try one suit from. Digital Bespoke tailor Askokey as I expect he will make beautiful suit for you and almost in half of other tailors cost ❤❤
I look forward to seeing Kirby getting a suit stitched by the Askokey team. Two connoisseurs of classic bespoke tailoring who appreciate the tenets of the craft.
Savile Row is %90 glorified MTM from India these days. I know fanboys heads will explode but it’s true. Paolo is much more authentic and well fitted than most of “The Row”.
Outstanding gentleman Mr. Paolo Martorano a bespoke tailor. Thanks for sharing Kirby. Hopefully one day I can afford this tailor and get 4 well made quality suits. Hip, hip, hooray.
PS, I'm NOT talking about your shoulder 'slope', I'm talking about breathing in, filling your lungs and standing up straight and pulling your shoulders back. Wow, my old sergeant would have punished you for that.
What happened to "whats the difference btw $400 and 1200 shoes" that series is one of the best, shouldn't have stopped , i would love you to review gaziano& girling deco holden in chestnut with swan stitch.
It is always good to showcase tailors other than the “Row” but of course this gentleman is not actually a tailor. Paolo is the front guy. I have to say after two fittings it’s still not there. I wonder how many more. The trousers were quickly skipped over so hard to discuss. However the waistcoat certainly needs widening at the shoulders. Even Kirby was forced to highlight it. The jacket back on the mannequin looked poor but the explanation made sense. Sadly when Kirby wears it, it’s not much better. The sleeves at the shoulder join are pulling. Hopefully all can be adjusted. The real issue is that whenever there is a fitting an actual tailor is not actually measuring the adjustments with his chalk marks but a superb businessman fronting the company whose skill level in tailoring is clearly basic. Great marketing poster - a sponsored show by the new prince of New York City ?
Paolo Martorano, the gentleman you're seeing, comes from 5 generations of family tailors. He is more than qualified to measure and inspect the quality of men's suiting. Zino is the Head Tailor and Cutter for all the benchmade garments. This was explained in a prior interview in 2020. This is a basted garment, and they never look fully presentable. Most importantly, the neck, shoulders, sleeves and "balance" of the coat are looked upon. On Savile Row, Cutters take all measurements, but they "cut" the pattern, and are uninvolved as a "coat maker" and "pant maker" take on those responsibilities. Given Paolo runs a smaller house, both roles are blended into what Zino does in the actual shop with his associates. Kirby himself has sloping shoulders and a forward posture, with prominent shoulder blades. That combination requires more fabric and a certain balance to allow the jacket to remain on the shirt collar because everything is "forward". I have no doubt that a great garment will be presented to Kirby with all the characteristics of a bespoke suit.
All very well but as explained in the previous Kirby episodes when he detailed his CV he stated he is not a tailor. He has never trained as a tailor. Yes there is a superb amount of clothing retail experience but that is a big difference. He would not be classified as a tailor on Savile Row or in the clothing houses of France or in Italy. Yes he can take measurements but clearly he is providing them to a cutter to do the work. As stated that’s the issue. It’s the quality of explanation that is not getting through to his cutter. Now if he and his tailor/cutter were together at the fittings I am sure the overall process would be done quicker and more professional. With Paolo doing his very slick presentation to the client detailing what needs to be amended following ongoing chat with the tailor in the room the client would be better informed and get a superior fitted suit. Let’s hope Kirby does get eventually a suit to treasure but at the moment after the initial meeting and two fitting appts there is clearly much work to be done.
@@monochromebluessthe audience seems to have a better opinion on this second fitting than on the first one at the very least. For me the first fitting was no success, I'll finish the whole video and make an opinion if maybe the problems were addressed.
Firstly I think trousers and waistcoats look great from the back, from the front however... The crotch fit is suboptimal to say the least, the waistcoat chest flares open and it looks tight. I agree with Kirby on too much shirt showing.
And on the jacket: I disagree that the back looks "totally clean", the upper back was still not good and will have to be adjusted. I'm interested how the sleeves will look in the next fitting, because if they stay like this they will have to be adjusted as well. Also interested in the shoulders because I have no clue what they will look like at this stage.
Forget Paolo's suit. This is the first time I got a good look at the details of your prince of wales double breasted suit. I always thought it was just a solid gray! Its incredibly beautiful!
Kirby, You really need to pull your shoulders back; you're so slouchy & slovenly. Whilst I'm at it, your pigeon-toed left foot, needs to be thought about. A gentleman, really does not walk like that. Comment is made with the best intenrions, without offense intended.
The waistcoat is crazy crooked in the arms. The actual coat looks a mess. This is not what i imagined a 7500 suit would look like or a 2nd fitting. Love your channel but absolutely not on this one.
Looks like this will be an outstanding suit.
inspiring! can't wait to see the finished product.
This suit is not cheap. I’m keen on seeing the final product!
Very nice, Kirby. That’s going to be a lovely one when it’s complete. I love the color as well.
Its great seeing American tailors getting a slice of the pie! Looking good Kirby.
Where is the grey suit from? The fitting of that is just gorgeous! Would love to go back and see the fitting videos of this suit
can't wait to do this myself!!......just gotta win that darn lottery first....
Thank goodness…he called it, correctly, a waistcoat and not a vest……🇬🇧
he called it a vest in the 1st fitting but ok
Please stop using the elevator music.
The waistcoat is kinda poor, needs some widening at the shoulders to say the least
Waistcoat fits pretty well, widening the shoulder is a cake walk
Can’t fix bad body
اتمنى في المقطع القادم ان لا يكون هناك صوت للموسيقى من اجل ان يكون المقطع اكثر هدوء وتركيز ويشبه الى حد ما ASMR تقبل تحياتي متابعينك من 🇸🇦❤
Paolo! Il Megliore! Commendatore. Thanks for sharing Kirby! Happy that youre showcasing tailors that arent just from The Row. Many talents that are overlooked!
This dude reminds me that comedian who got erased by the Joker (in the movie).
Does anyone remember who made the Prince of Wales suit Kirby is wearing?
Divij Bespoke make that suit.
It's coming along nicely. As always great quality production. Thanks for taking us through the process Paolo.
Also Kirby your gray suit looks amazing
The wedge in the back is very visible, I wonder if that will dissapear at the next fitting
Just watching Kirby getting suited best way possible
Paulo is very talented. His work would not be out of place on the row. Top level stuff.
It would be very out of place on the row, pretty low calibre so far. Mind you, he is NOT a tailor and said so himself
Regardless, great to see American bespoke getting a chance to show
Do we know how this ended and whether the suit was finished?
I just mentioned on Instagram how envious I used to be of women's fashion just a few short years ago. The variety of style and quality in almost any major city is incredible. Before I moved to New York City. Here in NYC there are so many great options for men. Especially with shoes. If a great shoe company is going to open a U.S. store, it's going to be in New York City. But for things like shirts and suits, you have to still have to dig a little deeper. There's lots in NYC. But they just don't market themselves like shoe companies do. I get it. Tough business.
So I appreciate people like Kirby showcasing the great local talent here. While out of my budget range (for now), I have places to visit when the time comes.
Thank you and keep up the great work!
Looks like it will be a stunning suit!
That is a beautiful DB suit you have on Kirby
That jacket wasn't ready for a forward fitting. Still lots of issues going in there...
Good luck
Love the posters, great touch
Thank you. I can't wait for my appointment.
I have to say though, the grey double breasted suit with yellow tie looks fantastic too Kirby.
Is there another video after this one that shows the final fitting i havent ben able to find it?
I have to assume that there are some older, wiser, and more experienced tailors behind this guy. He's the face of the brand. I'm not implying that he doesn't know anything. But, why is their product more expensive than the top bespoke tailors of London?
New York tailoring, in general, has always been more expensive than even Savile Row in London. Not totally sure on the drivers of this. Paolo doesn't represent himself as a tailor. He does the fittings and is very talented at this. But, yes, he has an exceptional team of tailors behind him doing the actual work on the garments that he has built.
Tailoring is often very dependent on location. NYC is one of the most expensive places in the world while in small Italian towns or Japan you can find bespoke for way less but you have to know where to look.
One thing he says is: the more fittings you do the better it will be. I probably agree up to a point. Because sometimes if you do multiple fittings some tailors (or frontmen) think that something has to be changed even though you're already at the finish line. And then the outcome will be worse. Some tailors have great eyes and are at 95, hell maybe even 99% with one fitting, others need three, four, even five fittings to get an only acceptable result.
One more thing: he talks about using rock of eye which I think is quite ironic. Tailors will talk about it quite a bit that this is a skill that you have to acquire and train during, you know, learning and doing tailoring. And Paolo was the one who told us in full length how he never got to know any tailoring skills.
Looks good.....but chalk and cheese compared to kent and haste.....amazing how much difference there is between two bespoke fits......this suit looks good, but not special....The kent and haste suit looks like you were born into it....Fit was perfect....
I take it this is also a lot less cost wise......
Those suits had unresolved issues as well....
This is one of the best tailors I have ever seen, he has amazing details especially in jackets, I hope to have a suit tailored by him one day.. Thanks Kirby ❤
I am sure this will be a fine suit. Per Paolo's web site, a 2-piece suit comes with a price tag of $7500. I am sure it is worth every penny. There does seem to be a wide range of pricing in this segment, even in NYC.
Hi Kirby, I started wondering something and since you're in the business of selling coat hangers, I wonder why no one ever thought of making bespoke hangers. I mean, you're already spending an arm and a leg on a suit, it can't cost much more to find someone to carve out a shoulder "last" to make a hanger that fits your jacket perfectly. The tailor is already taking your measurements precisely anyway. Since there's the idea of the shoe last, why not a jacket last?
Kirby how can i connect with you I’ve found something unbelievable,
A master tailor who does everything in house measurements pattern cutting pressing everything everything PICK STITCHING un real stuff at prices starting UNDER 1000 US in Florida
Imagine a mini series on it and comparing that suit to your others your viewers who want to get into bespoke tailoring can certainly do it at this price point
This is a true game changer
No way that's real and good quality
What's the name? Do they have IG?
Who is it?
I have bespoke suits from Italy at a similar price point. A comparison is interesting. You can see that there are cut corners, still 100% handwork and pattern drafting but don't expect a rubinacci at this price point because some corners have to be cut.
Sounds too good to be true... you're into the fabric for almost $1,000 on a nice suit. Don't know how someone can make it by hand for that price point and not starve to death...
I live in MY and dress
up regularly for
work (pharm sales ) I’ll have to check him out
Suit looks beautiful. What are the key differences between a Tom James custom, a 5000 dollar Seville row custom and a 7500 dollar Paolo custom suit?
Thanks for the vid. Wish I had found your channel sooner, its great
Glad you enjoy it! Welcome to the channel!
"Lifetime of fitted waist coat is probably pretty short for the average guy" lol!
Pretty sure that’s George Santos.
Do not overlook how beautifully Paolos coat fits him. The collar is hugging the neck very nicely
If that lapel roll stays the same once the button is sewn on and closed, that's going to be really nice.
What’s a good entry level off the rack or MTO that would recommend?
Suit Supply does nice off-the-rack. Otherwise, check out Divij.com for MTM.
@@kirbyallisonI never thought I d hear you utter suit supply lol. I have a few items of theirs. It’s trash. Have you ever tried Richard James???
What are the gentlemen putting in their hair here? Some kind of oil?
Amazing content! 🥃
Every time Kirby has a fitting, all the issues are down that right side, the left side seems to be pretty well spot-on from day 1, a recurring theme.
That big drop right always throws the jackets off kilter somewhat.
Yeah. The drop right always screws things up.
The intro is so good.
I have been waiting for the next video of this. I love the fitting!
El traje principe de Gales tiene un corte irreprochable.
this is your best content kirbs. bespoke measurements, fittings, deliveries, fabric breakdowns, etc
Glad you think so!
Waiting for the final outcome of this great piece
Дякую, Кірбі!!! Цей колір дуже пасує Вам. Він підкреслює колір вашого волосся та цю неймовірну краватку.
Thank you!! 🙏
@@kirbyallison 🌞🌝🌚🙂🌞
The Paolo Row is the best tailor.
Looking forward to see the finished result!
Really nice fit. That is going to be a stunner.
I like this Kirby suit. Best I’ve seen on him. Shift the right sleeve back 1/4” to 3/8”. Raise collar 3/8”. Kirby has a bit of a left low shoulder.
no way. Alan Flusser suit was hands down the best suit he's ever had made. You must not watch his stuff to say that
@@orders69pizzas30agree, this is probably one of his worst tbh.
@@teekuethe Pinstripe suit they made for him looked amazing
Honestly the cut of Paolo is incredible! True craftsmanship very balanced and masculine with a room for moves really like it ! Amazing amazing amazing, wish I could afford one :)!
You’re exactly right. It’s really beautiful
Cost of this type suit ?
$7,500
Love seeing the craftmanship and progress of the suit coming together
What price does a bespoke three-piece suit start at from Mr. Martorano?
$7,500
Another exceptional video Kirby, Paolo’s talent is really on full display here! I must say the DB suit you are wearing is exquisite, and with glimpses of your Chopard perpetual calendar with the bespoke Jean Rousseau watch straps is a delightful pairing.
Didn’t know Al Capone still was alive. A delight to see!
I don’t know about Delight but lol
Paolo, hats off to you 👍👍👍
Very nice!
Mr allison pls try one suit from. Digital Bespoke tailor Askokey as I expect he will make beautiful suit for you and almost in half of other tailors cost ❤❤
I look forward to seeing Kirby getting a suit stitched by the Askokey team. Two connoisseurs of classic bespoke tailoring who appreciate the tenets of the craft.
This might be Al Capone
Savile Row is %90 glorified MTM from India these days. I know fanboys heads will explode but it’s true. Paolo is much more authentic and well fitted than most of “The Row”.
Not so far......
Outstanding gentleman Mr. Paolo Martorano a bespoke tailor. Thanks for sharing Kirby. Hopefully one day I can afford this tailor and get 4 well made quality suits. Hip, hip, hooray.
This is so interesting. What a talent Paulo has. Wow.
PS, I'm NOT talking about your shoulder 'slope', I'm talking about breathing in, filling your lungs and standing up straight and pulling your shoulders back. Wow, my old sergeant would have punished you for that.
What happened to "whats the difference btw $400 and 1200 shoes" that series is one of the best, shouldn't have stopped , i would love you to review gaziano& girling deco holden in chestnut with swan stitch.
Kirby ol' sport, Your trousers don't look relaxed for braces. Are planning on using a belt instead of braces?
Kirby doesn’t look at porn to get off. He looks at photos of bespoke suits.
what are those elephant pant straps under the vest. UG LY!😢
It is always good to showcase tailors other than the “Row” but of course this gentleman is not actually a tailor. Paolo is the front guy. I have to say after two fittings it’s still not there. I wonder how many more. The trousers were quickly skipped over so hard to discuss. However the waistcoat certainly needs widening at the shoulders. Even Kirby was forced to highlight it. The jacket back on the mannequin looked poor but the explanation made sense. Sadly when Kirby wears it, it’s not much better. The sleeves at the shoulder join are pulling. Hopefully all can be adjusted. The real issue is that whenever there is a fitting an actual tailor is not actually measuring the adjustments with his chalk marks but a superb businessman fronting the company whose skill level in tailoring is clearly basic. Great marketing poster - a sponsored show by the new prince of New York City ?
Paolo Martorano, the gentleman you're seeing, comes from 5 generations of family tailors. He is more than qualified to measure and inspect the quality of men's suiting. Zino is the Head Tailor and Cutter for all the benchmade garments. This was explained in a prior interview in 2020. This is a basted garment, and they never look fully presentable. Most importantly, the neck, shoulders, sleeves and "balance" of the coat are looked upon. On Savile Row, Cutters take all measurements, but they "cut" the pattern, and are uninvolved as a "coat maker" and "pant maker" take on those responsibilities. Given Paolo runs a smaller house, both roles are blended into what Zino does in the actual shop with his associates. Kirby himself has sloping shoulders and a forward posture, with prominent shoulder blades. That combination requires more fabric and a certain balance to allow the jacket to remain on the shirt collar because everything is "forward". I have no doubt that a great garment will be presented to Kirby with all the characteristics of a bespoke suit.
All very well but as explained in the previous Kirby episodes when he detailed his CV he stated he is not a tailor. He has never trained as a tailor. Yes there is a superb amount of clothing retail experience but that is a big difference. He would not be classified as a tailor on Savile Row or in the clothing houses of France or in Italy. Yes he can take measurements but clearly he is providing them to a cutter to do the work. As stated that’s the issue. It’s the quality of explanation that is not getting through to his cutter. Now if he and his tailor/cutter were together at the fittings I am sure the overall process would be done quicker and more professional. With Paolo doing his very slick presentation to the client detailing what needs to be amended following ongoing chat with the tailor in the room the client would be better informed and get a superior fitted suit. Let’s hope Kirby does get eventually a suit to treasure but at the moment after the initial meeting and two fitting appts there is clearly much work to be done.
@@monochromebluessthe audience seems to have a better opinion on this second fitting than on the first one at the very least. For me the first fitting was no success, I'll finish the whole video and make an opinion if maybe the problems were addressed.
Firstly I think trousers and waistcoats look great from the back, from the front however... The crotch fit is suboptimal to say the least, the waistcoat chest flares open and it looks tight. I agree with Kirby on too much shirt showing.
And on the jacket: I disagree that the back looks "totally clean", the upper back was still not good and will have to be adjusted. I'm interested how the sleeves will look in the next fitting, because if they stay like this they will have to be adjusted as well. Also interested in the shoulders because I have no clue what they will look like at this stage.
Forget Paolo's suit. This is the first time I got a good look at the details of your prince of wales double breasted suit. I always thought it was just a solid gray! Its incredibly beautiful!
Kirby,
You really need to pull your shoulders back; you're so slouchy & slovenly.
Whilst I'm at it, your pigeon-toed left foot, needs to be thought about. A gentleman, really does not walk like that.
Comment is made with the best intenrions, without offense intended.
Haha. Thanks!
The waistcoat is crazy crooked in the arms. The actual coat looks a mess. This is not what i imagined a 7500 suit would look like or a 2nd fitting. Love your channel but absolutely not on this one.
I've been anticipating this!