I agree with jan. In addition, if it's leaking filament, it will charr over time all the while collecting under the cotton and tape. Make sure the nozzle is tight against the throat. Make sure ptfe tubing is cut square, and seated all the way to the bottom of the throat.
Def try tightening the nozzle against the throat after it's heated. I notice you have the two hold down bolts on either side. This was an attempt to prevent the heat block from rotating to aid the set screw. Problem is, thos bolts can prevent you from seating the nozzle against the throat if set too far back. Many people remove those bolts to prevent issues.
Hi Steve! Your site has helped me with my Ender3 on several occasions. Thx! Perhaps you have been "testing" these hotends, I don't know. May I suggest an all metal hotend? I understand the expence of all metal, and the ease of your actual fix (heater block condom), but just for the sake of disscusstion... the time saved, down printer time, and added abilities from all metal make it the clear choice when its replacement time. I agree, the quick connect and thing could be handy in some environments. I have had some issue running petg with my stock hotend and am concidering the microswiss, but I have a few more ideas on how to get it to flow thru the hotend better. Thx again!
Glad I could help! I know I can go to a custom hotend, but they cost more (or maybe not with all the trouble I have had and I am looking for a solution that keeps me printing inexpensively and reliable as the printer did when I got it. If this keeps up, I will break down and upgrade the hotend with an all metal solution.
Hi my cr-10 says its at 210 but its not and won't melt pla because the hotend is not actually hot enough, iv replaced the hole hotend, heat element and thermistor as still not working if its something inside of the control box can you tell me what needs replacing or what to look for and how so I can fix it please
Has it ever worked correctly? Have you made any changes as far as upgrades prior to the Hotend replacement? Does the does the Hotend heat at all and does it show on the control display? These are pretty simple and reliable machines, we should be able to get you going.
@@makersteve934 iv only done printed upgrades nothing at all when it comes down to electrical, the replacement hotend it another original cr-10 hotend, when I want say 210 it says that and the temp says its reached 210 but its not as iv tested it with a thermal gun plus its not melting the pla, even when I put in 260 it still don't actually get hot enough to melt pla either, the screen works fine
Kapton tape should be able to withstand up to about 400 C. Even a non genuine tape shouldn't be able to melt at normal print temperatures. If you are still running stock firmware, I'm not sure the thermal run-away is enabled. If there is an intermittent connection issue to the thermistor, then that might be the issue as well.
The cotton definitely is making most of the goop, the the kapton tape is burnt like nothing I have seen before. It is stock firmware, but thermal runaway is not the problem, i have logging enabled on Octoprint and can see the hotend is staying consistent at 202C.
@@makersteve934 I doubt the hot-end is only at 202 C. Neither the insulation or the kapton tape should have any problem with that temperature. You should easily be able to print at 230 C. Put an extra external k-probe on the hot-end, and verify that it reports the correct temperature.
@@janpetersen8441 It's been 3 hotends in a row all reporting correctly on the Control Panel and in Octoprint. Each one with a different thermister. I completely agree that I should be able to go much hotter with no damage to the insulation. There is something wrong with the material they are using, IMHO. 6 other crealitys, all of them cranking away with no discoloration. The issue this time is not the kapton or the cotton, it is the leaking filament between the nozzle and the heat block. I did throw a temperature probe from my Multimeter on it and it was consistently 10C colder than the set temperature. I can't get it inside, i didn't remove the thermister or I would get thermal runaway. I am convinced that, cotton and Kapton is crap and there is a defect in these hotends that cause them to leak filament. Why would Creality (and I love Creality) send me 3 additional when my original purchase was 2? I am sure they would send me two more.
I agree with jan. In addition, if it's leaking filament, it will charr over time all the while collecting under the cotton and tape. Make sure the nozzle is tight against the throat. Make sure ptfe tubing is cut square, and seated all the way to the bottom of the throat.
I cut the PTFE tubing, completely seated the nozzle and also the PTFE. But it definitely makes for good discussion.
Def try tightening the nozzle against the throat after it's heated. I notice you have the two hold down bolts on either side. This was an attempt to prevent the heat block from rotating to aid the set screw. Problem is, thos bolts can prevent you from seating the nozzle against the throat if set too far back. Many people remove those bolts to prevent issues.
Hi Steve! Your site has helped me with my Ender3 on several occasions. Thx! Perhaps you have been "testing" these hotends, I don't know. May I suggest an all metal hotend? I understand the expence of all metal, and the ease of your actual fix (heater block condom), but just for the sake of disscusstion... the time saved, down printer time, and added abilities from all metal make it the clear choice when its replacement time. I agree, the quick connect and thing could be handy in some environments. I have had some issue running petg with my stock hotend and am concidering the microswiss, but I have a few more ideas on how to get it to flow thru the hotend better. Thx again!
Glad I could help! I know I can go to a custom hotend, but they cost more (or maybe not with all the trouble I have had and I am looking for a solution that keeps me printing inexpensively and reliable as the printer did when I got it. If this keeps up, I will break down and upgrade the hotend with an all metal solution.
Hi my cr-10 says its at 210 but its not and won't melt pla because the hotend is not actually hot enough, iv replaced the hole hotend, heat element and thermistor as still not working if its something inside of the control box can you tell me what needs replacing or what to look for and how so I can fix it please
Has it ever worked correctly? Have you made any changes as far as upgrades prior to the Hotend replacement? Does the does the Hotend heat at all and does it show on the control display? These are pretty simple and reliable machines, we should be able to get you going.
@@makersteve934 iv only done printed upgrades nothing at all when it comes down to electrical, the replacement hotend it another original cr-10 hotend, when I want say 210 it says that and the temp says its reached 210 but its not as iv tested it with a thermal gun plus its not melting the pla, even when I put in 260 it still don't actually get hot enough to melt pla either, the screen works fine
@@makersteve934 and yes it used to work properly
Kapton tape should be able to withstand up to about 400 C. Even a non genuine tape shouldn't be able to melt at normal print temperatures.
If you are still running stock firmware, I'm not sure the thermal run-away is enabled. If there is an intermittent connection issue to the thermistor, then that might be the issue as well.
The cotton definitely is making most of the goop, the the kapton tape is burnt like nothing I have seen before. It is stock firmware, but thermal runaway is not the problem, i have logging enabled on Octoprint and can see the hotend is staying consistent at 202C.
@@makersteve934 I doubt the hot-end is only at 202 C. Neither the insulation or the kapton tape should have any problem with that temperature. You should easily be able to print at 230 C. Put an extra external k-probe on the hot-end, and verify that it reports the correct temperature.
@@janpetersen8441 It's been 3 hotends in a row all reporting correctly on the Control Panel and in Octoprint. Each one with a different thermister. I completely agree that I should be able to go much hotter with no damage to the insulation. There is something wrong with the material they are using, IMHO. 6 other crealitys, all of them cranking away with no discoloration.
The issue this time is not the kapton or the cotton, it is the leaking filament between the nozzle and the heat block.
I did throw a temperature probe from my Multimeter on it and it was consistently 10C colder than the set temperature. I can't get it inside, i didn't remove the thermister or I would get thermal runaway. I am convinced that, cotton and Kapton is crap and there is a defect in these hotends that cause them to leak filament. Why would Creality (and I love Creality) send me 3 additional when my original purchase was 2? I am sure they would send me two more.